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Ame rican Woman's

COOK BOOK

Edited and Revised hy
Ruth Bcrol^^ncimcf

Director/
Culinary Arts Institute

From the
DELINEATOR COOK BOOK

Edited by

Delineator Institute,

Mildred Maddocks Bentley, Director

Martha Van Rensselaer and Flora Rose
Directors, College of Home Economics

-Cornell University

Published for

CULINARY ARTS INSTITUTE

CONSOLIDATED BOOK PUBLISHERS, INC.

CHICAGO, 1939

Consolidated Book Publishers,

Incorporated

Chicago, 111.

Copyrights of previous works in which

certain parts of this book appeared

MCMXXVIII

MCMXXXIV

Butterick Publishing Company

Entered at Stationers' Hall, London, England

MCMXXXVIII

Consolidated Book Publishers,

Incorporated

Manufactured in the United States of America
by The Cuneo Press, Inc.

Table of Contents

PAGE

Useful Facts about Food - 1

How to Buy Food - - 3 5
Food Values and Meal

Planning ----- 39

Menu Making - - - - 47

The School Lunch - - 60

Table Setting and Service 64

Carving ----- 83

Garnishes ----- 88

Cereals ------ 92

Yeast Breads - - - - ^7

Quick Breads - - - - 117

Sandwiches - - - - 131

Toast - - - - - - 156

Appetizers - - - - - 158

Soups ------165

Soup Accessories - - - 186

Fish - 191

Meat - 228

Poultry and Game - - 274
StuflSngs for Fish, Meat,

Poultry and Game - - 303
Sauces for Fish, Meat,

Poultry, Game and

Vegetables - - - - 307
Entrees and Made-Over

Dishes ----- 326

Vegetarian Dishes - - - 351

Egg Dishes ----- 360

Cheese ------ 374

Vegetables ----- 383

Salads ------ 424

PAGB

Salad Dressings - - - 446

Cakes ------ 451

Cake Fillings and Frost -

ings ------ 472

Cookies, Doughnuts, Gin-
gerbread, Small Cakes - 483
Candies ------502

Fruit Desserts - - - - 517

Custards, Gelatin and

Cream Desserts - - 525

Hot and Cold Puddings - 539

Frozen Desserts - - - 5 57

Sauces for Desserts - - 579

Pastry and Meringues - 5 85

French Recipes - - - 615

Hot and Cold Beverages 635

Food for Invalids - - - 650

High Altitude Cooking - 657
Canning, Preserving and

Jelly Making - - - 658
Piddes and Relishes - - 687
Casserole and Oven Cook-
ery 701

Cooking for Two - - - 710

Cooking at the Table - - 718

Food Equivalents - - - 722
The Friends Who Honor

Us 724

Herbs, Spices, Extracts - 730

Foreign Words and Phrases 734

Wine Seasons Fine Food - 737

Index 759

List of Illustrations

REFER

PAGE ILLUSTRATION to page

APPETIZERS

164B Appetizers - - - - 162
160A Canapes and Appetiz-
ers (color) - - 158-162

164A Cocktail Tray - - - 158
164B Individual Sandwich

Loaves ----- 150

BREADS

122A Apple Flapjacks - - 121
125A Assorted Quick Breads

129, 130

lOOB Assorted Rolls - - - 110

lOOA Braided Bread - - - 101
106A Bread and Rolls

(color) - - - 108-11.0

33 2A Bread Croustades - - 32^

lOOB Clover-Leaf Rolb - - 109

125 A Corn Bread - - - - 127

Gingerbread - - - - 494

157B Cornucopia - - - - 157

lOOB Crescent Rolls - - - 109

112A English Muffins - - - 110

100 A Folding the Dough - 101

125 A Gingerbread - - - - 494

Corn Bread - - - - 127

112A Honey Sandwich Loaf - 129

112B Honey Twist - - - 115

lOOA Kneading the Dough - 100

112B Pecan Caramel Rolls - 126

Swedish Tea Ring - - 111

122B Popovers 119

125B Sally Lunn - - - - 126

125B Scones 126

11 2B Swedish Tea Ring - - 111

Pecan Caramel Rolls - 126

157B Toast 156

157A Toasted Loaf - - - 157

122A Waffles ----- 122

CAKES, COOKIES

457B Cakes of Many

Varieties - - 451-471
471 A Chocolate Marshmallow

Roll 470

457A Devil's Food Cake - - 458

PAGE

486A
471B
480A
486A
486A
457A

480B
486B
486B
496A

471A
471B

496B
56C
56C

378B
390B

758

187A

378A

435A

435B

139B

435B

378A

572A
24B
535B
572B
535B
122B
549B
549B
549A
6A
535A
53 5A
566B

ILLUSTRATION

REFER
TO PAGE

Frosted Delights - 484

Fruit Cake - - - - 465

How to Frost a Cake - 472

How to Make Cookies 483

Icebox Cookies - - - 485
Martha Washington

Pie 469, 474

Novelty Frostings - 478-482

Petits Fours - - - - 496

Sugar Cookies - - - 484

Torte 496

Upside-Down Cake - 471

White Mountain Cake 461

CANDIES

Assorted Candies -

Pulled Sugar - - -

Spun Sugar - - -

CHEESE

502
516
515

382

Cheese Biscuit - -
Cheese Fondue on

Asparagus - - - 623

Cheese Fruit Tray - - 374

Cheese Rolls - - - - 186
Cheese Sticks - - 186, 381

Cheese Tray - - - 374

Frosted Melon - - - 440

Pear-Grape Salad - - 440

Toasted Cheese Loaf - 157

Tomato Rose Salad - 434

Welsh Rarebit - - - 377

DESSERTS
Baked Alaska - - - 568
Banana Fritters - - - 493
Bavarian Cream - - 534
Bombes ----- 578
Charlotte Russe - - 536
Coffee Cakes - - - 113
Date Pudding - - - 550
English Plum Pudding 548
Fruit Pudding - - - 549
Fruit Tartlets - - - 604
Garnishing Custards - 554
Hard Sauce - - - - 581
Ice Cream in Canta-
loupe 557

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

REFER

PAGE ILLUSTRATION to page
566B Ice Cream in Meringue

Cups 499

572B Ice Cream Sandwich - 569

496 A Plum Puddings - - - 548

5 49 A Rennet-Custard - - - 554

496B Shortcake - - - - 547
5 66 A Vanilla Ice Cream with

Strawberries - - - 563

EGGS

363B Fluffy Eggs - - - - 373

Bacon 265

363B Ham and Eggs - - - 264

363A Poached Eggs - - - 360

3 63 A Puffy Omelet - - - 363

ENTREES

332A Bread Croustades - - 329

332D Chicken Mousse- - - 350

3 32 A Creamed Sahnon - - 219
341B Croquettes - - - 335-341
157A Entree Treasure Chest

329, 224

332B Muffin Tin Timbales

327,330

328A Noodle Ring with
Creamed Chicken

(color) . - - - 344
332D Noodle Ring with

Vegetables - - - - 344

332C Timbale Cases - - - 331

Timbales of Toast - - 333

EQUIPMENT

32A Food Mixer- - - - 3
34 Gadgets -----

6A Oven Management - - 5

6B Using Oven and Broiler 2
38 A Well-Planned Kitchen

FISH

196B Baked Fish - - - - 196

196A Cooking Salmon - - 193

332A Creamed Salmon - - 219

196B Lobster 218

216A Planked Fish (color) - 200

JELLIES, PRESERVES

683A, B Jelly 681

676A Orange Marmalade - 675

676A Peach Preserves - - - 670

676B Preserves 667

ILLUSTRATION

MEATS

REFER
TO PAGE

363B Bacon 265

Fluffy Eggs - - - - 373
290A Boning and Stuffing

Shoulder 303

256B Breast of Lamb - - - 258

Stuffed Onions - - - 403

264A Candle Roast of Pork - 259

85A Carving Leg O'Lamb - 85

85B Carving Steak and Roast

------- 83, 84

256A Crown Roast of Lamb - 256

34lA Flank Steak Fillets - - 343

Onion Sauce - - - 315

363B Ham and Eggs - - - 264

256A Leg O'Lamb - - - - 257

341 B Meat Balls - - - - 245

230A, B, Q D

Meat Cut Charts - - 230

243B Planked Steak - - - 244

239A, B Pot Roast of Beef - 239

62 IB Rechauffe of Lamb - 620
242A Roast Beef with York-
shire Pudding

(color) ... - 242

Roasting Beef - - - 242

Rolled Roast - - - - 231

Sausage and Corn - - 619

Stuffed Ham - - - - 263

Stuffed Peppers - - 346, 347

PIES, PASTRIES
Coconut Cream Pie

(color) - - - 598, 600

Fruit Dumplings - - 548
How to Keep Pics in

Shape 587

B How to Make Pies - 583

Lattice Top Crust - - 587

Pastry Pinwheels - - 610
POULTRY

243A
243B
621B
264A
341A

606A

594B
594A

587A,
594A
594B

290B

85A

332D
407A

276B

264B
296A
276A

Boning and Rolling
Turkey - - - - -

Carving Poultry - - - 86

Chicken Mousse - - 350

Chicken Ring - - - 350

Brussels Sprouts - - 392
Methods of Trussing

Poultry 276

Preparing Poultry - - 275

Roast Chicken (color) 277
Stuffing and Roasting

Chicken ... - 277

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

24B
^2B
24A
32B

427A
435A
435A
436A

435B
427B
427B
435B
427A

164B

139B
139A
139A

139B
190

187A
187A
170B

170 A
170B
170B

187B

REFER

ILLUSTRATION to page
PROCESSES

Clarifying Fat - - - 2^

Correct Measurements - 13

Deep Fat Frying - - 24

Whipping Cream - - 33

SALADS

Cabbage in Aspic - - 428

Frosted Melon - - - 440

Fruit Salad Bowl - - 441
Molded Fruit Salad

(color) - - 427,437, 530

Pear-Grape Salad - - 440

Salad Bowl - - - - 441

Stuffed Tomato - - - 433

Tomato Rose Salad - 434
Vegetable Plate with 388-423

Hollandaise Sauce - 312
SANDWICHES
Individual Sandwich

Loaves 150

Sandwiches - - - 131-155

Sandwich Loaf - - - 150
Sandwich Treasure

Chest 132

Toasted Cheese Loaf - 157

SOUPS
Assorted Soup Acces-
sories 186

Cheese Rolls- - - - 186
Cheese Sticks - - 186, 381

Consomme - - - - 168

Pea Soup 174

Cream of Corn Soup - 178

Cream Soup - - - - 177

Pea Soup 174

Consomme - - - 168, 171

Soup Accessories - - 186

REFER

PAGE ILLUSTRATION to page

TABLE SETTINGS

56B Bridal Breakfast Table -
76A Buffet Dining Table -
76B, C Dinner Service Chart
76D Table Settings - - -
56B Thanksgiving Dinner
Table

726

390B

621A

407A

396B
407B

396A
621B
621A
407B
407B

407A
256B

341A
396B
3 90 A

91
427A

VEGETABLES

Artichokes with Hol-
landaise Sauce - 388, 312
Asparagus with Cheese
Fondue - - - - 623

Asparagus with Hol-
landaise Sauce -389,312
Brussels Sprouts - - 392
Chicken Ring - . -
Carrot Ring - - - -

Cauliflower - - - -

Potato Cups - - - -

Corn ------

Corn wirh Sausage - -
Lima Beans Neufchatel
Pigs in Taters - - -
Potato Cups - - - -

Cauliflower - - - -

Squash . - - - -

Stuffed Onions - - -
Breast of Lamb - - -
Stuffed Peppers - -
Toasted Carrots - -
Vegetable Cookery -
Vegetable Garnishes
Vegetable Plate with
Hollandaise Sauce

350
35 5
393
408
395
619
625
406
408
393
418
403
258
347

- 393

- 385

- 90
388-423

- 312

346

AT YOUR SERVICE

Unless otherwise specified, all recipes are based on service for six
persons. When cooking for more, multiply the ingredients in direa
proportion. When fewer are to be served, divide by two or three
as necessary. A full discussion of the problems of small quantity
preparations is found in the chapter entitled "Cooking for Two"

THE FORMAL

TEA PARTY fS THE

OPPORTUNITY FOR ALL

YOUR DAINTIEST. TOUCHES

The editor wishes to acknowledge the gen-
erous and wholehearted cooperation of those
who put at our disposal the beautiful photo-
graphs and color plates tvhich appear in
this book.

Armour and Company

The Best Foods, Inc.

Booth Fisheries Corporation

Campbell Soup Company

Canned Salmon Industry

Chicago Flexible Shaft Company

Corn Products Refining Company

Corning Glass Works

Fostoria Class Company

Fruit Dispatch Company

Caper Catering Company

General Foods Corporation

Hawaiian Pineapple Company, Ltd.

Hotpoint

Institute American Poultry Industries

Irradiated Evaporated Milk Institute

John F. Jelke Company

The Junket Folks

Kalamazoo Vegetable Parchment
Company

Kraft- Phenix Cheese Corporation

Mandel Brothers

Mirro Aluminum

Modern Science Institute

National Dairy Council

National Live Stock and Meat Board

The Palmer House

Peoples Gas Light and Coke Company

Reed and Barton

Sterling Silversmiths Guild of America

Swift and Company

Towie Manufacturing Company

U. S. Bureau Home Economics

West Bend Aluminum Company

Wheat Flour Institute

All color plates, end papers and illustrations on the jacket are
by courtesy of

THE CARNATION MILK COMPANY

and

LAND 0' LAKES CREAMERIES

USEFUL FACTS ABOUT
FOOD

USE OF RECIPES

'T^O become a good cook requires more than the blind follow-
^ ing of a recipe. This is frequently illustrated when several
women living in the same community, all using the same
recipe, obtain widely differing results. It is the reason so many
cooks say, "I had good luck with my cake to-day," or "I had
bad luck with my bread yesterday." Happily, luck causes
neither the success nor the failure of a product. To become a
good cook means to gain a knowledge of foods and how they
behave, and skill in manipulating them. The recipe by itself,
helpful as it is, will not produce a good product; the human
being using the recipe must interpret it and must have skill in
handling the materials it prescribes.

Some of the lessons which the person desiring to become a
good cook should learn are given in the following pages. They
will not be learned all at once; but if they are gradually
mastered, luck will play a less important part in culinary con-
versation.

Methods of Cooking Food

Boiling is cooking in water at a temperature of 212°
Fahrenheit. At this temperature water will bubble vigorously
and as these bubbles come to the surface of the water steam
is given oflF. (In mountainous regions, where the boiling-point
is affected by atmospheric pressure, allowance must be made
for the variation.)

Simmering is cooking in water at a temperature of 180° F.
to 210° F., or below the boiling-point of water. Only an oc-
casional bubble is formed and rises slowly to the surface.

Stewing is cooking in a small amount of water. The water
may boil or simmer, as indicated for the food that is to be
cooked.

Steaming is cooking in the steam generated by boiling water.

Pressure Cooking is cooking in steam at a pressure of 5 to

30 pounds and at temperatures 228° F. to 274° F. The rise
in the temperature of the steam is caused by holding it under
pressure. A special cooker is necessary for this cooking. From
10 to 15 pounds (240° to 250° F.) is the pressure ordinarily
used for household purposes.

Broiling is cooking over or imder or in front of a fire of
live coals or a gas or electric burner, or other direct heat.

Oven Broiling is cooking in a broiler pan (either with or
without a rack) that runs close under the heat in the broiling
oven of a gas or electric stove.

Pan Broiling is cooking in a hot griddle or pan greased only
enough to prevent food from sticking.

Baking is cooking in the oven. The temperature of baking
varies with the food to be prepared. A slow oven should be
from 250° F. to 350° F. A moderate oven shoul-d be from
350° F. to 400° F. A hot oven should be from 400° F. to
450° F. A very hot oven should be from 450° F. to 550° F.

Poaching is cooking, for a short time, foods such as eggs or
fish or mixtures of these foods, in water, milk, or stock, just
below the boiling temperature.

Oven Poaching is cooking in the oven in a dish set in hot
water. The method is used for custards, souffles, and other egg
mixtures of delicate texture which are cooked in the oven.

Roasting as now used means the same as baking. Originally
it meant cooking before an open fire and was similar to broil-
ing.

Frying is cooking in hot fat at a temperature of from
350° F. to 400° F., depending on the nature of the food
to be cooked. The article to be cooked is immersed in the fat.

Sauteing is cooking in a small quantity of fat. The article
to be cooked must be shifted from side to side to come in con-
tact with the fat. Sauteing is a cross between pan broiling
and frying.

Braizing is a combination of stewing or steaming with bak-
ing. The food to be braized is first stewed or steamed and then
baked.

Fricasseeing is a combination of sauteing with stewing or
steaming. The food to be fricasseed is first sauted, then stewed
or steamed.

USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD

FiRELESS Cooking is cooking by heat that has been retained
in a fireless cooker or insulated oven. It is accomplished by
surrounding the thoroughly heated food with some insulating
material to keep the heat from being lost rapidly.

Methods of Mixing Food

Stirring — ^Food is stirred by a rotary motion of the arm.
The purpose of stirring is to mix thoroughly all ingredients.

Beating — Food is beaten when the motion in mixing brings
the contents at the bottom of the bowl to the top and there is
a continual turning over and over of a considerable part of the
contents of the bowl. The purpose of beating is to enclose a
large amount of air.

Folding In — Two foods are blended by putting the spoon or
egg- whip vertically down through the foods, turning it under
the mass, and bringing it vertically up. This process is repeated
until the mixing is complete. The purpose of folding in is to
prevent the escape of air or gases that have already been intro-
duced into the mixture.

Cutting in — A process used to blend fat with flour. It
consists of cutting the fat into the flour w'ith a knife or two
knives until it is distributed in as small particles as desired.

Creaming — A rubbing together of fat and sugar, or a press-
ing and beating of fat to soften it.

Kneading — A stretching motion applied to dough when
more flour is to be added than can be either stirred or beaten
into the mixture; or used to make a dough smooth and even in
consistency.

Larding — A process of inserting match-like strips of salt
pork about one-fourth inch in thickness into a dry meat or fish.
These strips are called lardons, and are inserted either by mak-
ing an incision in the surface and laying the lardon in the slash-
ing or by the use of a larding-needle. The pork is clamped into
one end of the needle and is threaded into the meat, as in any
sewing process.

COOKING BY TEMPERATURE

For best results in cooking, exact temperatures should be
known and followed. This requires the use of thermometers

such as an oven thermometer or an oven-heat regulator for all
sorts of baking, and special thermometers for sugar cookery,
deep-fat frying, and roasting meats.

Automatic Mechanical Oven-Heat Regulators which
control temperature automatically by regulating the supply of
heat are available in both gas and electric ranges. These are of
great assistance alike to the experienced cook who would always
obtain the same results with a given recipe and to the beginner
w^ho has nothing to guide her in estimating the length of time
required to get the slow, moderate and hot stages in her oven.

Heat Regulators or Temperature Controls must al-
ways be built into a gas range at the factory, and they must
usually be built into electric ranges. For both types of stove
they may be set to control a desired temperature automatically.
Once set, they will maintain the temperature to within a few
degrees Fahrenheit of that indicated, for an indefinite period.

Time Controls are now quite common on modern ranges
and even on fireless cookers, and, in combination with the
temperature controls, they are almost uncanny, for they will
turn heat on at a definite time and off again at another speci-
fied moment. This makes it possible to put a meal in the oven
or cooker in the morning and leave it with the assurance that
it will start to cook at five o'clock in the afternoon and that
the heat will be turned off again at Hye forty-five. As today's
ovens and cookers are thoroughly insulated, the heat retained
in the oven wall and in the food will complete the cooking.
Moreover, since they are cooking on a decreasing heat, there
is little or no danger of burning food, even if you should be
delayed beyond the time when you planned to return.

Thermometers That Can be Set in the Oven may be
used where an oven heat regulator is not available. A small
flash light is useful for reading them in a dark oven.

Other Thermometers may be bought for candy and
frosting, for deep fat frying, and for roasting meats. The cost
of these thermometers is not large and they will soon pay for
themselves in saving of time and food.

If These Devices Are Not Available the next best thing
is to seek to develop delicacy of feeling and knowledge of prac-
tical tests which will detect differences in temperatures. This,
of course, comes only with experience.

USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD

Cooking Periods and Temperatures

Oven Temperatures for Baking

Degrees Fahreuheit

Slow oven 250 to 350

Moderate oven 350 to 400

Quick or hot oven 400 to 450

Very hot oven 450 to 550

Note Explaining the Use of Figures in the Following Tables.
When two degrees of temperature or two periods of time are given,
separated by a dash, (e.g. 3 50 — 375 or 30 — 40) it means that the
temperature of the cooking medium or the length of the cooking
period may range between these two extremes.

"When the temperature figures are separated by the word "to" (e.g.
400 to 350) it means that cooking is to be started at the tempera-
ture first given and that the heat is afterward to be reduced to the
second figure.

TABLE I

BREAD, CAKES, COOKIES AND PASTRY

BAKED

To bake loaves of yeast bread, heat the oven to the higher tempera-
ture given, and leave it at this degree for about fifteen minutes. Then
reduce it to the lower figure for the remainder of the baking period.
See table of oven temperatures above.

-^ J Temperature of Oven

oread Degrees Fahrenheit Baking Period

Yeast, white (loaves) 400 to 375 Minutes 60

graham or whole wheat

(loaves) 400to350 " 60

Baking-powder (quick bread,

loaves) 400 " 40 — 50

Corn bread (sheets) 400 Minutes 20 — 25

Biscuits, baking-powder 450 — 460 " 12 — 15

Muffins, yeast 400 — 425 " 20 — 30

baking-powder 400 — 425 ** 20 — 25

Popovers 450 to 350 " 35 — 40

Rolls, yeast 400 — 425 " 20 — 25

Temperature of Oven
Cake Degrees Fahrenheit

Angel 275—300

Butter, plain loaf 3 50 — 375

sheet or cup 375

layer 375

pound 350

Fruit, small 325

large 275

Molasses, sheet 350 — 375

cup 350—375

Sponge, loaf 300 — 325

sheet 325

Drop 375 — 400

Filled 400 — 425

Ginger snaps 375

Macaroons 250 — 300

Molasses 350 — 375

Thin, rolled 350—375

Gingerbread 3 50 — 375

Pastry

Cheese straws, etc 500

Cream puffs and eclairs 400 to 350

Meringues, cooked separately . .250 — 300

on pies and puddings 300 — 3 50

Pie crust, shells, large pies . . . .450 — 500

tarts 400 — 450

Pies, double crust with fruit

filling 450 to 425

single crust, (custard,

pumpkin, etc.) 450 to 325

Turnovers, etc 450

Baking Period

Minutes

60— 7 S

45—60

20—30

t«

60—75

««

75—90

Hours

3—4

Minutes

25—30

15—25

40—60

««

12—15

«(

10—15

«t

8—10

«t

15—20

««

18—20

10—12

30 — 40

Minutes

40—60

S— 10

20 — 40

15—20

TABLE II

CUSTARDS, SOUFFLES, SCALLOPED DISHES
AND PUDDINGS

BAKED
For table of oven temperatures, see page 5
Au Gratin Dishes Degrees Fahrenheit Baking Period

(to brown crumbs) ........ .400 Minutes 10

USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD

Custards Degrees Fahrenheit Baking Period

Large (surrounded by water) . . .300 — 350 Minutes 35 — 45

In cups (surrounded by water) 300 — 350 " 20 — 25

Puddings

Batter, cottage, etc 375 — 400 " 35 — 45

Bread 250—350 " 45—60

Indian 250—350 Hours 2—3

Rice or tapioca 250—350 " 1—2

Scalloped Dishes

(not potatoes) 350—400 Minutes 15—30

Souffles

(surrounded by water) 375 " 20 — 30

Timbales

(surrounded by water) 250 — 325 " 35 — 45

TABLE III

MEAT, POULTRY AND FISH

ROASTED

For table of oven temperatures, see page 5

The number of minutes per pound which a roast requires for
cooking at a given temperature is only an approximation. The
accurate way of determining doneness is by the internal tem-
perature shown on the meat thermometer inserted into the roast.

All boned cuts require longer cooking time than those with
the bones left in. Allow about 10 minutes per pound longer for
cooking boned cuts.

Many hams now on the market require shorter cooking time.
For these hams, follow directions given with them.

If one wishes to sear meat, the oven may be preheated (450°-
475° F.) and the meat placed in the hot oven for 10 or 15 min-
utes, then the temperature reduced quickly to 300° F. for the
rest of the cooking period. Searing, however, does not keep in
juices. The constant low temperature method is preferred.

Oven Temperature Roasting Period

Meat Total, hrs.

Braized meats 350° R 2— 2l/^

Meat en casserole 350° F. 2 — ly^

Meat pie with crust (meat previously Total, mins.

cooked) 450° F. 30

Oven Internal Minutes
Beef Temperature Temperature Per Pound

Rare 300° F. 140° F. 18 to 20

Medium 300° F. 160° F. 22 to 25

Well done 300° F. 170° F. 27 to 30

Voxk

Fresh (always well done) . 350° F. 185° F. 30 to 35

Smoked 300° F. 170° F. 25 to 30

Lamb and Mutton

Medium 300° F. 175° F. 25 to 30

Well done 300° F. 180° F. 30 to 35

Yeal 300° F. 170° F. 25 to 30

Poultry

Chicken 325°— 350° F. 22—30

Duck, Goose 325°— 350° F. 20—25

Turkey 300°— 350° F. 15—25

Fish Total, mins.

Large 425° to 350° F. 15—20

Small or riUets 425° to 350° F. 20—30

SIMMERED OR BOILED

Simmering temperatures range from 180° F. to 210° F.

Meat Cooking Period

Fresh

Pot roasts (3-4 lbs.) Total, hrs. 2— 6

Swiss steak " " 2

Corned or smoked (4-5 lbs.) Mins. per lb. 30—40

Ham Total, hrs. 4— 5

Ox tongue " " 3 — 4

Poultry

Chicken (3 pounds) " " 1 — l^A

Fowl (4 to 5 pounds) " " 2 — 5

Turkey (10 pounds) " " 3—31/^

Fish

Small, thin Mins. per lb. 5—10

Large, thick " " " 1C> — 15

USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD

BROILED OR SAUTEED

Meat

Chops, lamb or mutton

pork or veal

Liver, calves or lambs

Steak, 1 inch thick (rare to medium)

lYz inch thick (rare to medium) .

Poultry

Chicken

Quail

Squab

Fish

Fillets

Shad, whitefish, bluefish, etc

Cooking

Period

tal, mins

. 15—20

" »t

20—30

t« <t

10 — 15

«« tt

ee t«

8—15

«e ««

20—30

c« ««

10 — 20

<( C(

10 — 20

t« tt

5—15

tt tt

15—20

FRIED
For fried meats, poultry and fish, see Table IV, following

TABLE IV
FRIED FOODS

Deep Fat Frying

Temperature of Fat
Degrees Fahrenheit

Croquettes

And all previously cooked foods 375 — 390

Doughnuts, Fritters

And all raw batter and dough

mixtures

3 60—370

Fish

Fillets (sole, cod, etc.) 390

Frogs' legs 390

Small fish (smelts, etc.) 375 — 390

Medium sized fish (trout, etc.) . 390

Fishballs 375 — 390

Clams 390

Crabs 360

Oysters 375 — 390

Scallops 3 60

Cooking Period
Total, mins. 2 — 5

Total, mins. 2 — 3

4—6
2—3
2—5
2—5
2—5
1—2
3—5
2—5
2

_ « w* « Temperature of Fat

Meat and Poultry Degrees Fahrenheit

Chicken 375 — 390

Chops or cutlets, breaded 375 — 400

Timbale Cases 390

Vegetables

French fried potatoes, onions,

etc 395

Cooking Period
Total, mins. 5 — 7
« 5—8

« « l__li/2

TABLE V

EGGS

BOILED

Temperature of "Water
Degrees Fahrenheit

Soft 212

Hard 212

CODDLED

Soft 180—200

Hard 180 — 200

BAKED

Temperature of Oven
Degrees Fahrenheit

Soft 250—350

Hard 250—360

Cooking Period
Total, mins. 2 — 4
20—30

Total, mins .s 6 — 10

30 — 45

Total, mins. 6 — 10
« 25—40

TABLE VI

FRUITS AND VEGETABLES

BOILED

Fruits Cooking Period

Apples, cut Mins. 5 — 8

whole " 15—25

dried Hrs. 1 — 4

Apricots, dried . . . Hrs. ^ — 2
Berries and small

fr\iits Mins. 10 — 15

Cranberries " 10

Figs, dried " 20

Peaches " 12

Fruits

Prunes, dried
(soaked 1 to 6
hours) Mins.

Pears, summer Mins.
winter ...

Pineapple . . .

Plums

Quince '

Rhubarb *

Cooking Period

10—20
60
20
12

15 — 40
S

'USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD

Cooking Period

Mins. 15—35
3—4
5— 1:5
20—40

25—35

8—15
20—40
20 — 40
10—30

Hrs,

Mins.

Vegetables

Leeks

Lentils, dried . . . Hrs.

Lettuce Mins.

Okra

Macaroni, spa-
ghetti, etc. . .
Onions, young

(scallions) . . .

old

Parsnips

Peas, green ....

dried

Potatoes,

white

sweet

Pumpkin (cut) . ,

Rice

Spinach

Salsify

Squash, summer

winter

Tomatoes

Turnips ,

Periods Required for Waterless Cookery of Vegetables
The time required for waterless cookery varies somewhat with the
age of the vegetable and the size of the pieces into which it is cut.
It is generally safe to allow the maximum period given in the preced-
ing tables, if the vegetables are young. For old, fully matured vege-
tables, increase the time from ten to twenty minutes.

Vegetables

Cooking Period

Artichokes,

French

Mins

. 30—40

Jerusalem

15—40

Asparagus

15—30

Beans, shell or

string

««

15—35

Lima, green . .

««

15—35

Navy and

other dried. . .

Hrs.

, 3 4

Beet greens

Mins,

, 15—30

Beets, young. . . .

30—50

old

Hrs

. 2—4

Broccoli

Mins,

. 15—25

Brussels sprouts . .

15—20

Cabbage

5—20

Carrots, young. .

15—25

old

20—35

Cauliflower

15—30

Celery

15—30

Corn

7 — 12

Cucumber

5—20 •

Dandelion greens

20—35

Dasheen

15—35

Eggplant

15—20

Kohlrabi

«»

25—45

20—45
25—30
30— 4a
20-30

5—10
20—45
10—20
20—30

5—15
15—40

BAKED

_ , Temperature of Oven

trmts Degrees Fahrenheit

Apples 3 50—375

Bananas 400 — 450

Pears 350—375

Rhubarb 3 50 — 375

Baking Period

Mins. 20 — 40

" 15—20

" 45—60

" 20

BAKED

Temperature of Oven
Vegetables Degrees Fahrenheit

Beans, with pork 250 — 3 50

Cauliflower 375 — 400

Eggplant (stuffed) 3 50—375

Mushrooms 400 — 450

Onions, whole (stuffed) 400 — 450

sKced 400 — 450

Peppers (stuffed) 3 50—375

Potatoes, sweet, in skins 400 — 450

white, in skins, large 450 — 500

small to medium 450 — 500

scalloped 3 50 — 400

Baking Period
Hrs. 6—8
Mins. 30
" 30
" 15
" 60
" 30
" 30
" 30 — 40
" 45—60
" 30—45
1—1/2

Hrs.

TABLE VII
CANDY AND FROSTING

Stages in Sugar Cooking

Sirup stage 220-^230

Thread stage 230—234

Soft ball stage 234 — 240

Medium ball stage 240 — 244

Stiff ball stage 244—250

Hard ball stage 250 — 264

Light crack stage 264 — 272

Medium crack stage 272 — 290

Hard crack stage 290 — 320

Caramel stage 320 — 360

CANDIES

Fondant (soft ball stage) 238 — 240

Fudge and Marshmallow (thread to soft ball stage) .... 230 — 238

Caramels and Nougat (stiff ball stage) 246 — 250

Molasses taffy and soft candies to be pulled (hard ball

stage) 245 — 260

Hard candies to be pulled (medium crack stage) 272 — 290

Toffee and butterscotch (medium to hard crack stage) . . 280 — 300

Clear brittle candies (hard crack stage) 290 — 310

BOILED FROSTING

1 egg-white to 1 cup sugar (soft to medium ball stage) 23 8 — 242

2 egg-whites to 1 cup sugar (stiff ball stage) 244 — 248

3 egg-whites to 1 cup sugar (hard ball stage) 254 — 260

USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 13

MEASUREMENTS

Learn to Measure Accurately — All the measurements in
this book, and in most modern cook-books and magazines, are
level. It will not do to use a heaping teaspoon, tablespoon or
cup when a level one is meant. To change proportions by-
wrong measuring causes poor results, for example:

Too much flour will make a cake dry and crumbly, bread
solid and heavy, sauces thick and pasty.

Too much fat will make cakes oily and may cause them to
fall; it will make grease-soaked doughnuts and greasy gravies
and sauces.

Too much sugar will make a cake with a hard crust, or a
sticky cake; it makes a soft, sticky jelly.

Too much liquid will make a cake that falls easily.

Too much soda gives a disagreeable taste and bad color to
breads and cakes.

Have Accurate Equipment for Measuring, as follows:

A measuring-cup holding one-fourth quart and divided by
ridges on one side into thirds and on the other side into fourths.

A quart measure divided by ridges into fourths. Each fourth
is a cupful.

A standard tablespoon that holds one-sixteenth of a cup.

A standard teaspoon that holds one-third of a tablespoon.

A tested scale.

To Measure Dry Material — Fill the cup, spoon or other
measure to overflowing, then pass a spatula or the straight edge
of a knife over the top, leveling the material. For an accurate
half-teaspoon or tablespoon of dry material, fill spoon as above,
then, owing to the difference in capacity of the tip and bowl
of the spoon, divide the material in half lengthwise.

To Measure Fat — An easy and accurate way to measure
solid fat is by means of water. For instance, to measure ^ cup
of solid shortening, fill a standard measuring cup % full of cold
water, then drop in pieces of the shortening, pushing them
under the water until the water level reaches the one-cupful
mark. If Yz cup shortening is called for in the recipe, fill the
cup one-half full of water, and so on for any quantity desired.

Another accurate method especially recommended for small
quantities, is to pack the shortening into a standard measur-
ing spoon and level off evenly with the straight edge of a
knife.

To Measure Liquids — ^Fill the measure with all it will hold.

Equivalent Measures and Weights

3 teaspoons .... 1 tablespoon

4 tablespoons . . % cup
16 tablespoons . . 1 cup
J4 cup 1 gill

4 gills 1 pint

2 cups 1 pint

4 cups
2 pints .
4 quarts
8 quarts
4 pecks
16 ounces

1 quart

. 1 gallon

. 1 peck

. 1 bushel

.1 pound

USEFUL FACTS ABOUT STARCH

Some of the foods which are used most frequently are rich
in starch; for instance:

Flour — ^White, whole wheat, graham, buckwheat, rice, corn,
rye, barley.

Vegetables — ^Potatoes, sweet potatoes.

Legumes — ^Dried peas, dried beans, lentils.

Breakfast Foods — ^Wheat, oat, corn-meal, rice, barley.

Miscellaneous — Chocolate, cocoa, macaroni, vermicelli,
spaghetti^ corn-starch, tapioca, sago, chestnuts.

Starch-rich Foods Must be Cooked Thoroughly if they
are to have fine flavor and be easily digested. This is because
starch occurs in foods in the form of tiny, hard, dry grains
which are not soluble in cold water and which are difficult for
the digestive juices to act upon. When starch is cooked, it is
easy to digest and much improved in flavor^ because cooking
changes the form of the starch.

"When Starch is Cooked in Liquid, the heat causes the
starch grain to absorb liquid, swell and soften. When flour or
corn-starch or any other finely divided meal is cooked in a
liquid, it thickens the liquid.

When Starch is Cooked by Dry Heat, that is, with very

'USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 15

little moisture, the heat, unless it is great enough to burn the
starch, breaks down the starch grain and changes the starch to
a substance called dextrin. Dextrin does not thicken liquid,
but, like starch cooked in water, it has a better flavor and is
easier to digest than raw starch.

The baking of a loaf of bread illustrates both these changes.
The starch in the dough in the inside of the loaf absorbs the
water used in making the dough and swells and softens. The
water in the dough on the outside of the loaf evaporates and
the starch in the outer layers of dough is partly changed to
dextrin. As a result, the crust has mpre flavor and is sweeter
than the crumb, and has a different texture.

In baking a potato, the water for cooking the starch is sup-
plied by the potato itself.

Points to be Observed in Cooking Starch-rich Foods

1. Use enough water to soften all the starch present. This
is especially important in cooking breakfast foods.

2. Cook them for a long enough time to swell and soften the
starch. A temperature as high as the boiling-point of water,
212° F., is best for this cooking.

3. Wlien flour or finely ground meal is to be mixed with a
hot liquid, separate the particles before they reach the hot liquid,
or gummy lumps with raw centers will be formed. This separa-
tion of the particles of flour or meal can be accomplished by
mixing the flour or meal with enough cold liquid to make a
mixture as thin as cream, or by combining them with sugar
or with fat before mixing them with the hot liquid. Lumpy
gravies, sauces, mushes and puddings are caused by a failure
to observe these precautions.

4. A double boiler is the best utensil tb use in cooking cereals,
mushes and starchy sauces because it does away with the danger
of sticking and burning. The water in the lower part of the
boiler should be boiling.

Thickening Power of Flour or Corn-starch

This is one of the most important things for a good cook to
know. If the cook can tell how much flour or corn-starch to
use to make sauces or pastes of any desired thickness, and knows
how to mix and cook these sauces and pastes to make them

smooth, velvety and fine in flavor, he or she has learned one of
the hardest cooking lessons and is in possession of information
that will help in making a great variety of dishes.

WITH EACH CUP OF LIQUID:

Yz tablespoon flour or (
Yz teaspoon corn-starch (

1 tablespoon flour or |

1 teaspoon corn-starch )

2 tablespoons flour or
2 teaspoons corn-starch

3 tablespoons flour or
1 tablespoon corn-starch

4 tablespoons flour or
4 teaspoons corn-starch

Makes a very thin sauce, which may
be used in making thin cream soups.
Makes a thin sauce, which may be
used in making cream soups of aver-
age' thickness.

Makes a medium sauce, which may be
used for creamed meats or vegetables,
scalloped dishes, gravies or other
sauces where a medium thickness is
desired. It has about the thickness
of heavy cream.

Makes a thick sauce, which may be
used for creamed meats or vegetables,
scalloped dishes, gravies or sauces
where a thick sauce is desired. A
sauce containing this amount of flour
has considerable body and spreads
rather than runs.

Makes a paste when cold. This
sauce may be used in making mixtures
for croquettes, soufiles, blanc manges
and similar puddings.

When the Liquid Used is Milk, use a little more milk or a
little less starch than for a water sauce, because milk already
contains about 12 per cent, solids.

When the Liquid Used is Acid, as vinegar, a fruit- juice or
tomatoes, the hot acid acts on the starch and gradually changes
it, just as dry heat does, to dextrin. Dextrin has not the
thickening power of starch. Therefore, when an acid liquid
is to be thickened, more of the thickening agent may be needed,
and the time for cooking may be shortened. No statement can
be made as to exact differences because acids differ greatly in
strength.

■ When the Flour is Browned, the dry heat changes part
of the starch to dextrin and the flour may lose a considerable
part of its thickening power. Either more browned flour must

USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 17

be used than uncooked flour or browned flour may be used
for color and uncooked flour for thickening.

Corn-starch Requires Longer Cooking Than Flour,
and a quickly cooked corn-starch mixture always has a raw
taste.

If a Sauce is Too Thick, it can be thinned without trouble
by adding more liquid.

If a Sauce is Too Thin, it must be thickened by adding
more of the thickening agent and by recooking it. A starchy
sauce or a cream ^oup is always thinner when hot than when
cold. Even the amount of cooling which occurs in transferring
a starchy sauce, gravy or soup from the cooking utensil to the
serving dish perceptibly thickens it. This must be taken into
account in making creamed dishes of various kinds.

If a Sauce is Lumpy, because proper precautions have not
been taken in mixing and cooking the thickening agent with
the liquid, the sauce should be strained; but such a sauce never
has the creamy, smooth texture of a well-made one.

Methods of Combining Flour or Corn-starch

with Liquids

When Little or No Fat is Used — Heat three-fourths of
the liquid. Stir the remainder of the liquid gradually into the
thickening agent. If sugar is used it may be mixed with the
thickening agent before the liquid is stirred in or added to the
sauce after the thickening is completed. Stir into the thicken-
ing agent at first only enough of the cold liquid to make a
thick batter. Beat this batter until smooth and free from
lumps, then add the rest of the cold liquid. The mixture should
be about as thick as medium cream. Beat this gradually into
the hot liquid and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture
is thickened. If fat is used, it may be added at this time. After
thickening, the sauce may be cooked in a covered double boiler
with occasional stirring.

When Amount of Fat Equals or Exceeds Amount of
Thickening Agent — ^Melt the fat, add the flour or corn-starch
and cook, stirring constantly, until thoroughly blended. This
is called a roux. Stir in the liquid, a little at first, then inmie-
diately enough to thin the roux perceptibly and finally the re-

mainder. Cook, stirring constantly, until thick. Complete
cooking in a double boiler^ stirring occasionally.

Heat the liquid; cream together the fat and thickening agent;
add this modification of roux to the hot liquid and stir con-
stantly while the fat melts and the particles of flour or corn-
starch are being spread through the liquid and cooked. Com-
plete cooking in a double boiler, stirring occasionally.

Dishes That Have a Sauce Foundation

A variety of dishes can be made by a person who is familiar
with the thickening power of flour and corn-starch and with
methods of combining them into sauces. There are two founda-
tion sauces:

A White Sauce is one made from milk or white stock or
part of each, thickened with plain flour or corn-starch.

A Brown Sauce is one made from milk or water or brown
stock and thickened with browned flour or part browned and
part plain flour or corn-starch.

The following typical dishes have a sauce foundation:

Cheese Sauce — ^To each cup white sauce of desired consist-
ency, add 54 cup shaved, grated or crumbled cheese and stir
imtil cheese is melted.

Cream Soups, Purees and Bisques — To each cup of very
thin or thin white sauce, add 2 cups of vegetable, meat or fish
pulp.

Creamed Dishes — ^To each cup of medium or medium to
thick white sauce, add 1 to 1J4 cups vegetables, meat, fish or
hard-cooked eggs cut in pieces.

Scalloped Dishes — ^To each cup of medium to thick white
sauce, add 1 to 2 cups cooked vegetables, meat, fish, hard-cooked
eggs, cooked macaroni or rice; put into a baking dish, sprinkle
w;ith buttered crumbs and bake until brown.

Croquette Mixtures — ^The foundation of most croquettes
is white sauce or brown sauce. When this type of croquette
is made, to each cup of very thick sauce use 1 to 2 cups of finely
divided cooked meat, fish, hard-cooked eggs or vegetables.
When the mixture is cold, it will easily shape into croquettes.

Souffle Mixtures — ^Many souffles are made from a founda-
tion of thick or very thick white sauce to which is added some
seasoning or flavor such as cheese, vanilla, sugar, or some chopped

USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 19

food and raw egg-yolk. Beaten egg-white is folded in and the
mixture is ready to pour into a baking-dish. All souffles are
baked with the containing dish standing in hot water. With
a knowledge of white sauce and Qgg cookery, souffles are very
simple to make. No attempt is being made to give at this point
complete directions for making souffles, but only to show how a
knowledge of one part of cooking will help in the making of
many dishes and will make the whole problem of cooking
simpler and more interesting. The most common souffles hav-
ing a white sauce foundation are:

Cheese Souffle — ^To each cup of thick to very thick white
sauce, add % cup grated cheese, 2 egg-yolks and seasoning.
Cook until the cheese is melted. Then fold in the beaten egg-
whites, and the souffle is ready to bake.

Meat or Fish Souffle — ^To each cup thick to very thick
white sauce add 1 cup minced meat or vegetable, 3 egg-yolks,
and the beaten whites of 3 eggs and bake for thirty minutes at
375° R

Chocolate Souffle — ^To each cup thick white sauce, add
2 ounces grated chocolate, 5/3 cup sugar, and 3 egg-yolks; cook
until the chocolate is melted. Fold in the beaten whites of 3
eggs and bake for thirty minutes at 375° F.

Vanilla Souffle — ^To each cup very thick white sauce,
add Y;} cup sugar, Yz teaspoon vanilla, 2 to 3 egg-yolks. Fold
in beaten whites of 2 to 3 eggs and bake for thirty minutes at
375° F.

USEFUL FACTS ABOUT SUGAR

Sugars are useful in cooking (1) because of their flavor, or
the efiFect they have in modifying or intensifying other flavors;
(2) because of their texture, or the changes they make in the
texture of other foods; (3) because they help in preserving
other foods, especially fruits.

Use of Sugar in Flavoring Foods

Sugars Not Equally Sweet — ^Maple sugar, brown sugar
and molasses, weight for weight with white sugar, are a little
less sweet than white sugar. Corn sirup or glucose, weight for
weight with white sugar, is only about three-fifths as sweet as
white sugar and may be used to reduce the sweetness of white
sugar. Many persons prefer this modified sweetness.

Foods Taste Sweeter Hot Than Cold — ^This accounts
for diflFerences in the amounts of sugar used in making frozen
desserts and other desserts.

Some Sugars Contain Special Flavors, for example:
maple sugar, brown sugar^ molasses, honey.

Sugar Brings out or Modifies Natural Flavors — ^It
makes bitter chocolate and fruit acids more mellow and agree-
able in flavor. It brings out flavor in bland foods like cereals^
breads, milk and some mild-flavored vegetables.

"yC^ays in Which Sugar Affects Texture of Foods

In CakeSjj used in right proportions, sugar helps to make
Uiem tender and light. Too much sugar makes cake tough
and heavy.

In Breads, used in right proportions^ sugar helps to make
them light. Too much sugar makes bread coarse in texture.

With Fruit Juices, used in right proportions, makes fruit-
juice jelly. Too much sugar makes jelly "wine off" and makes
it soft and sticky in texture. Too little sugar necessitates over-
cooking, impairs flavor and gives a tough texture.

In Beaten Egg White, sugar helps the egg to hold air and
remain stiflF. Too much sugar makes the egg white flatten out
and settle.

Approximate Amounts of Sugar for Various
Common Dishes

Ice creams — 2 to 4 tablespoons to 1 cup mixture.
Custards (not frozen) — 1 to 2 tablespoons to 1 cup milk.
Cakes — One-half as much sugar as flour. In chocolate cakes, three-
quarters as much sugar as flour.
Meiongues — 1 to 5 tablespoons to 1 egg white.
Frostings — 1 to 3 cups to 1 egg white.
Breads — 1 tablespoon or less to 1 cup flour, if any is used.
Muffins — 2 tablespoons or less to 1 cup flour, if any is used.

CARAMEL

1 cup granulated sugar 1 cup boiling water

Put the sugar into a pan and melt slowly over direct heat.
Cook until dark brown, being careful not to scorch. Add the
hot water and cook slowly until a thick sirup is formed. (Be

USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 21

sure that the water is hot. Cold water will make the hot sugar
spatter.) This will keep indefinitely in a covered glass fruit
jar and is a popular flavoring for desserts, soups, meat sauces
and confectionery.

USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FATS

The cooking and table fats available for use in the modern
household range from liquid oils to hard fats. The source may
be vegetable, meat, milk or a combination of these.

Cooking and Table Fats Classified as to Sources

Oils Solid Fats

(Vegetable Product) (Milk Product)

OHve oil Butter

Cotton seed oil (Animal Product)

Corn oil L^rd

Other salad combinations Drippings as from bacon, suet,

(Milk Product) chicken, beef, etc.

Cream (Vegetable Product)

Vegetable shortening compounds

(Animal Meat and Vegetable Product)

Oleo margarine
Nut margarine

Cooking and Table Fats Classified as to Use

Fats are often classified as to their use: (1) for table use (2)
for shortening, and (3) for frying. Many of them belong
to two or all of these groups, while others are limited to one.

Oils — Oils are both salad and cooking fats. As salad oils
they are chosen for their flavor and smoothness in salad dress-
ings. Those made of cotton seed, corn and peanut oil — alone
or in combination with olive oils — are less expensive than pure
olive oil. From the labels, the purchaser will know just which
type she is buying.

Oils for shortening are becoming increasingly popular because
of their convenience. They are easily measured; they do not
need to be creamed or melted.

For frying, particularly deep fat frying, cotton seed and corn
oils are practical and inexpensive. They do not smoke and burn

easily and, properly cared for, they can be used over and over
again.

Solid Shortenings and Cooking Fats — ^Lard and meat
drippings for shortening and cooking date from the time when,
all fats were prepared in the home.

Lard is solid without being hard to handle in doughs, and has
an established reputation for pastry.

Fat from chickens and other poultry is highly prized for caKe
making.

Bacon, ham and sausage fats are too highly seasoned for any
but limited use but are excellent for sauteing any food where
their seasoning is desirable.

Drippings are not possible for deep fat frying, because they
burn so easily; unless they are clarified and combined, when they
become a good mixed fat. They may be used for sauteing or in
seasoning.

In the solid vegetable compounds, vegetable oils — cottonseed,
corn, and sometimes peanut — are solidified by a special process.
This gives certain characteristics of both the original oil and.
the solid fat, i.e.: they do not smoke or burn except at a high,
temperature. This makes them desirable for deep fat frying.
They do not easily melt which makes pastry making easy in ordi-
nary temperatures.

Butter — Probably butter will never lose its place as the
favorite for eating. Its texture and flavor are particularly
satisfactory. For certain types of cooking also, it is desirable,
notably in sauces, and in some baking where its flavor becomes
a part of the flavor of the dish.

Margarines — ^The nut and oleo margarines are less expen-
sive than butter but are nicely flavored and salted for table use.
They should not be considered a substitute but rather another
product suitable for the same use as butter. In the manuf act-
wre of these products, liquid fat, either of animal or vegetable
source, is churned with milk. The oil may be principally olein
from meat source, giving the name oleo margarine; or it may
be derived from peanuts, coconut or other nuts, making a true
vegetable margarine. They are purchased uncolored to dis-
tinguish them from butter, but they may be easily colored at
home for table use.

USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 23

Shortening

The term sKortening includes fat of any kind that is used
in pastry, doughs, and batters. Any clean, sweet fat may be
used. The best known and most commonly used are butter,
solid vegetable fats, margarine, salad and cooking oil, lard and
drippings* In general they may be used interchangeably for
"shortening" in a recipe, remembering the difference in flavor,
and that since some contain more water than others more fat
is needed to give the same shortening quality.

How to Try Out or Render Fat

Every bit of fat from scraps of meat, bacon drippings, roasts,
soups and poultry may be made into a mixture useful for gen-
eral cooking purposes. The scraps should be "tried out" to-
gether. The proportion of soft fats to hard fats will usually be
enough to make of the whole a good medium fat.

Chop the fat into fine pieces or run it through a meat-
grinder. For each pound of fat allow one-half cup of milk.
Cook in the top of a double boiler, or in a kettle set over water,
until the fat is melted. Strain through several thicknesses of
cheesecloth laid over a strainer.

Fat may be tried out in exactly the same way without the
use of the milk, but milk improves the flavor and texture of
the product. Sweet, sour or buttermilk may be used.

If the crisp cracklings left after straining are of good flavor
and color they may be substituted for other fats in various
dishes, notably in corn-meal and graham-flour mixtures, hashed
brown potatoes, corn -meal mush that is to be fried, and any
kind of baked hash.

How to Clarify Fat

If fat that has been tried out from scraps and drippings needs
to be clarified, let it harden, remove it from the container,
scrape away and discard any sediment that has settled in the
bottom of the cake and melt it by pouring boiling water over
it. Boil this mixture thoroughly, strain through several thick-
nesses of cheesecloth placed over a strainer, and set away to cool.
When the fat is cold, remove the solid cake from the liquid.
Discard the impurities in the bottom of the cake. If this

process is repeated two or three times, a cake of clean fat may be
obtained.

If fat acquires, through use, a slightly burned or disagree-
able flavor, melt it and for each pound or pint add a medium-
sized potato cut in quarter-inch slices. Heat gradually. When
the fat ceases to bubble and the potatoes are well browned,
strain the fat through several thicknesses of cheesecloth placed
over a strainer, and set away to cool. When ready to use,
scrape away and discard sediment from bottom of cake. Po-
tato helps to clarify fat as well as to purify it, for the potato
is porous and gathers into its pores much of the sediment in
the used fat.

How to Care for Fats

Since the four factors that are instrumental in making fat
rancid are light, moisture, air and warmth, all fats should be
kept in a dark, dry, cool place and as far as possible away from
air.

Oils, particularly, are affected by air. If oil is bought in
quantity and used a little at a time, it should be transferred
from the large container to small ones. Each container should
be filled completely full to exclude air, and should be sealed or
stoppered. The containers should be kept in a dry, cool place,
but not so cold that the contents will congeal. The top shelf
of the refrigerator is usually satisfactory.

Deep Fat Frying

Fats for deep fat frying, should be capable of being heated
to a high temperature without smoking or burning. Smoking
impairs the flavor, the digestibility and the durability of fat.
A fat should be capable of being used over and over again, but
everytime the fat is used the smoking temperature will become
lower, because of the amount of crumbs or other foreign matter
which escapes from the food into the fat, unless the fat is always
strained carefully after frying and clarified frequently.

Vegetable Fats and Oils are used increasingly for frying.
They have high smoking temperatures. They can be used over
and over again and are not likely to burn. They absorb prac-
tically no odor from the food so can be used for all sorts of
foods. They are, perhaps, the best all around fats for general
use in frying. See photographs opposite.

IHEN THE THERMOMETER
^YS THE TIME HAS COME,
DWER THE FOOD CAREFULLY
ND STAND BY

mAIN AT ONCE AND TURN
ITO AN UNCLAZED PAPER

»«JL*-

WHEN FINISHED. THE FAT
CLARIFIED, STRAINED M
STORED TO BE USED ACA

\ \

BANANA FRIT-
TERS CAN BE
DONE IN A
SHALLOW PAN

n^^m^' ^f^

USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD

Olive Oil has a comparatively low smoking temperature.
This is partly compensated for, however, by the fact that it
produces smoke slowly and the smoke is non-irritating. It has
more decided flavor than the other vegetable oils.

Lard must be used with great care to avoid overheating, and
must be well clarified after each time of using. It has a rather
low smoking temperature, smokes rapidly and produces an
irritating smoke. Like all animal fats, it absorbs strong odors
from foods.

Utensils for Frying

1. A deep iron bowl or scotch kettle. The bowl has one
advantage over the flat-bottomed kettle; the sediment from
food sinks into the curve of the bowl and does not adhere to
food.

2. A wire basket that fits loosely into the kettle. This is to
lift food into and out of the kettle. A skimmer will do this
but it is not so convenient.

3. A long-handled spoon or fork to hold the basket out of
the fat while the food is draining.

4. A pan large enough to hold the basket while it is being
emptied or filled.

5. A large pan lined with soft paper on which to drain the
food that has been fried.

6. A thermometer for testing the temperature of the fat.

Directions for Frying

1. Put enough fat into the kettle to submerge to a depth
of one or two inches the articles to be fried. Do not fill
kettle more than three-fourths full of fat. The fat in an
over-full kettle may bubble over and catch fire.

2. Heat fat gradually to the desired temperature, which will
be between 300° and 400° Fahrenheit, always, if possible, below
the smoking point of the fat.

3. Put only moderate amounts of food into the fat* at one
time, because (a) when the very hot fat cooks the food it
causes the moisture in the food to boil and this vigorous bub-
bling may cause the fat to bubble over the edge of the kettle,
with risk of fire; and (b) too much food may so cool the fat
as to delay the cooking and increase absorption of fat thus
making a greasy product.

4. When the food is cooked to the desired brown color, re-
move at once, drain over the kettle for a few seconds, then
place on soft paper to finish draining.

5. After frying is completed, let fat cool until it is safe to
handle, then strain through several thicknesses of cheesecloth
placed over a strainer. Clarify it frequently, after each time
of using, if possible, as it will lengthen the lifetime of the fat.

If fat used in frying is not overheated, and if it is frequently
clarified, it may be used over and over again, even if the smok-
ing temperature is comparatively low.

If fish is well egged and crumbed before being fried, it will
not seriously flavor the fat in which it is fried and the fat is
then useful for frying foods other than fish.

Testing Fat for Frying

Fats should never be brought to the smoking point as a test
of heat. Use a thermometer or drop into the fat a one-inch
cube of bread from the soft part of the loaf. Judge the heat
of the fat by the length of time it takes the bread to brown.

1. If the fat is the right temperature for large pieces of raw
food — breaded chops, etc., — (3 50°-375° F.) it will take from
1 to 1 54 minutes, for bread to brown.

2. If the fat is the right temperature for smaller pieces of
raw food or raw batters and doughs (360°-390° F.) the piece
of bread will brown in 50 to 60 seconds.

3. If the fat is the right temperature for most cooked foods —
croquettes, fish balls, etc., (375° to 390° F.) the bread will
brown in 40 to 50 seconds.

Have the Right Temperature in Frying — ^If fat is too
hot, it scorches the food, or does not cook it through, or spoils
the fat. If it is too cool, the food becomes soaked with fat. Fats
of low smoking temperature will naturally soak into food a
little more than fats of high smoking temperature, because the
food must remain longer in the fat.

Egging and Crumbing Foods for Frying

Except in the case of foods like doughnuts, fritters, potatoes
and fried breads, foods are ordinarily either egged and crumbed
or dipped in an egg batter before being fried. This is because
the egg or egg batter hardens in the hot fat, making a case
about the food which keeps it from becoming fat soaked.

USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 27

For crumbing, use dried bread crumbs rolled and sifted or
soft crumbs forced through a strainer.

Break an egg into a shallow plate and beat it with a fork
only enough to mix the yolk and white and not enough to beat
air into it. Blend into the mixed egg two tablespoons water for
each egg.

Place some crumbs on a board. Roll the food to be fried in
the crumbs, covering all parts with crumbs.

Dip the crumb-covered food into the egg bath, being careful
to cover every part with egg.

Lift food from egg with broad-bladed knife and roll again
in crumbs.

Let stand a few moments to dry. The food is then ready
for frying. Foods may be egged and crumbed several hours
or even a day before being fried.

USEFUL FACTS ABOUT EGGS

Eggs Help to Bind Foods Together

Eggs Bind Fats and Liquids Together — ^Fats and liquids
mixed together tend to separate very quickly. When egg is
added to this mixture, it is possible, under right conditions, to
secure a very intimate mixing of the fat and liquid. The best
known household illustration of this is the combination of oil,
vinegar and egg in mayonnaise dressing,- which produces mix-
ture that will keep for a long time. In the case of French dress-
ing, the oil and acid can often be held together for an hour
or longer if a small amount of egg-white is added.

Eggs Help to Combine Ingredients in Batter and
Dough — ^Although many batter and dough mixtures, such as
cakes, muffins, pancakes,^ and breads, may be and often are
made without eggy the use of egg materially improves them.
Egg brings about a very intimate mixing of fat and liquid not
only with each other but also with the other ingredients present.
This gives the product fineness of grain, particularly in mix-
tures containing fat, and increases its lightness of texture. Cake,
fancy yeast breads, such as zwieback, brioche, rusks and fancy
rolls, and quick breads, such as delicate muffins, owe a part o£
their delicacy of texture to the presence of eggs in the mixture.

Egg Increases Power of Batter or Dough to Hold Fat
— ^By causing a more intimate mixing of fat with other ingre-

dients, the egg in a batter and dough mixture will permit the
addition of more fat. If a cake is so rich that it has a tendency
to fall, the addition of another egg may cure the difficulty. If
it is not rich enough, yet falls when more fat is added, putting
in another egg permits the use of more fat. If richer mufiins
are desired, the same rule holds good; eggs as well as fat may
need to be added if the product is to retain its lightness. In
fancy yeast breads such as zwieback, brioche, rusks and fancy
rolls, the large amount of fat present does not reduce the light-
ness of the mixture, in part at least because of the effects of the
egg present.

Egg Increases Power of Batter or Dough to Hold
Liquid — ^Egg causes the liquid to be distributed in smaller
particles throughout a batter and dough mixture. This makes
it possible for the mixture to hold more liquid, without inter-
fering with its lightness, than it could hold if the eggs were
absent. Therefore, a bread or cake dough made with egg can
be made softer than one in which egg is not used. This adds
to the delicacy of the product. The popover is the most in-
teresting illustration of a batter that is very light in spite of the
large amount of liquid present.

Eggs Help to Give Lightness and Looseness of Texture

This property is due to the presence in egg of a tenacious,
gluelike or viscous substance called albumin. Albumin has the
power of holding air beaten into it, or gases formed in the mix-
ture containing it, and of stretching as a result of this.

Air-Holding Power of Egg Reduced by Fat — Egg-yolk
is very rich in fat. This is the reason that egg-white is better
than the yolk for giving lightness and looseness of texture, and
accounts for the direction, familiar to every housekeeper, not
to permit any of the yolk to escape into the white when separat-
ing eggs, if the white is to be beaten stiff. In cakes in which
the air-holding quality of egg-white needs to be used to great-
est advantage, the egg-white is beaten alone and is folded lightly
into the mixture at the last minute, so that the fat in the mix-
ture may not reduce its viscosity.

Air-Holding Power of Egg Increased by Sugar — ^In
limited amounts sugar increases the tenacity or viscous properties
of egg. This fact is interestingly illustrated in cakes, where the
addition of sugar, within limits, increases the lightness of the

USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 29

cake. When sugar is added to beaten egg-white, in limited
amounts, it increases the air-holding property of the egg, and
the meringue is lighter than the beaten egg alone. When the
sugar is added to unbeaten egg-white, in limited amounts, and
the two are beaten together, not only can the product be made
very light but a meringue made in this way holds the air for
a much longer time than when it is made by beating the egg
first.

Eggs Thicken Liquids, Making Custards

The value of eggs in custard making is due to the fact that
raw eggs are fluid and readily mix with water or milk. When
the mixture containing the egg is heated, the particles of egg
become solid and the liquid is thus thickened.

Proportion of Egg to Liquid in Custard Mixtures

^^1 i M^kes a mixture that has sufficient body to bake

1 whole egg or / -^^ small cups or for a medium thick soft custard.

2 egg-yolks )

Makes a mixture that has sufficient body to bake in
.... 1 a large baking-dish and hold its form while in the

i/^^^ 1 / ^^^^' *^^' ^^^^ baked in small cups, to retain the

1/2 whole egg orj ^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^p when turned into another dish.
^SS'Y^ s ' Good foundation for ice-cream if less than one-
fourth to one-half its bulk of cream is to be used.

1 cuo liquid ^ Makes a mixture that has sufficient body, when

2 whole eggs or ( t>aked in a large baking-dish, to hold the form of
1 whole eee C ^^^ ^^^^ when turned into another dish. Good
and 2 ece-volks\ foundation for frozen custard where no cream is

/ used. Good foundation for salad dressings.

Effects of Temperature on Eggs

The texture of eggs cooked alone or in custard mixtures is
directly affected by the temperatures at which they are cooked.

Cooked at 180° to 200° Fahrenheit (below the boiling-point
of water) 5 the egg-white is firm but delicate and very tender
and friable or easily broken apart. The egg-yolk is tender and
salve-like.

Cooked at 212° Fahrenheit (at the boiling-point of water),
the egg-white is firm, but somewhat tough. The egg-yolk is
mealy.

Cooked at 3 50° to 400° Fahrenheit (the temperature of fat

hot enough for frying) , the egg-white is leathery where touched
by the fat, and the yolk is leathery where touched by the fat.

Why Custards Whey or Curdle

Custards usually whey or separate or curdle because they are
cooked at too high a temperature or too long a time. Milk that
is a little sour may cause curdling of a custard.

The best way to prevent wheying, separating or curdling is
to regulate the temperature and time of cooking all custards by
cooking them over or surrounded by water slightly below the
boiling-point, by removing them from the heat when they are
done, and by being sure that milk uised in making them is en-
tirely sweet.

If a soft custard begins to whey, separate, or, as it is usually
called in this case, curdle, it should be removed immediately
from the heat. The pan containing it may be set into a pan
of cold water, and the custard may be beaten vigorously to
redistribute the particles of egg and milk solids.

Precautions For Custards Made With Acids — ^If a soft
custard mixture is to be made with vinegar or acid juices, such
as lemon-juice or tomato-juice, the custard should be removed
from the heat the minute the mixture begins to thicken.
Hot acid coagulates egg and then very soon begins to digest it.
This process makes it thin instead of thick. If an acid custard
mixture has become thinned by cooking it for a minute too
long, it must be thickened by adding more egg or by thicken-
ing it with flour, following the directions for starchy sauces.
Custards made with acid require more egg than other custards
to secure the same degree of thickness.

DIRECTIONS FOR MIXING AND COOKING CUSTARDS

Scald the liquid. This saves time in making all custards.

Thoroughly mix eggs, seasoning (as salt)j and flavoring (as
sugar) by stirring but not by beating.

Gradually add hot liquid to egg mixture.

For Firm Custards, pour custard mixture into baking-dish,
set baking-dish in pan of hot water and cook in slow oven
(300°-350° F.) or in a steamer at 180° to 200° F. until firm,
keeping water in pan constantly below the boiling-point. The
custard is done when the blade of a knife run into the center
of the custard comes out clean.

USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 3I

For Soft Custards, cook in top of double boiler, keeping
the water in the lower part constantly at 180° to 200° F. or just
below the boiling-point. Stir constantly until the mixture
stops frothing, coats the spoon, and has the thickness of cream.
Remove at once.

Always cook custard mixtures over hot water or sur-
rounded by hot water.

USEFUL FACTS ABOUT MILK

The value of milk in the daily meals is so great that every
effort should be made to extend its use in cooking.

Whole Fresh or Pasteurized Milk need hardly be dis-
cussed since all homemakers are familiar with its use. Vitamin
D Milk is a new form carrying an inci^eased content of this
vitamin. It is desirable, however, to describe other forms of
milk which today play a prominent role in up-to-date kitchens.

Evaporated Milk is the most important of these. It is whole
milk concentrated to double richness by evaporating part of the
natural water content. No sugar is added. Evaporated milk has
all the nutritive value of whole milk. When irradiated it carries
an increased content of Vitamin D. It is an especially suitable
food for babies.

For cooking, where whole milk is called for, an equal amount
of water should be added to evaporated milk. In place of cream,
it is used undiluted. Because this milk is homogenized, reducing
the butterfat globules to tiniest particles, it produces excellent
results in making cream soups, sauces, and other dishes where a
fine, smooth consistency is desired.

Dry Milk made by evaporating all water leaves the milk
solids in powdered form with the food value of pasteurized milk.

Condensed Milk, which contains a large amount of added
sugar, is used for making some desserts.

Skim Milk may be used in cooking, but the fact must be
remembered that the fat removed has carried with it important
vitamins which must be returned as butter and cream.

Buttermilk, produced when the fat is removed as butter, is
similarly deficient although valuable for its lactic acid.

Sour Milk is often needed for the invalid, for cooking or
baking. It can be made from fresh milk by the addition of 2

tablespoons white vinegar or lemon juice to each pint of milk.
Allow to stand in a fairly warm place at room temperature for
one-half hour, then return to refrigerator. The same propor-
tions obtain for evaporated or irradiated evaporated milk after
it has been diluted one -half according to directions. In baking,
use one-half teaspoon soda for every cup of sour milk or cream.
For Sour Cream add one tablespoon white vinegar or
lemon juice to one cup cream or each cup evaporated or irradi-
ated evaporated milk as it comes from the can.

TO PASTEURIZE MILK

If there is any question about the cleanliness of fresh milk
to be used for drinking, it should be pasteurized or boiled.
Infants or small children should never be fed any milk about
which there is the slightest doubt.

Flash Process — ^Put it into a covered co'ntainer set over hot
water. Heat until the milk reaches a temperature of 160° to
165° F. Hold at this temperature for one-half to one minute.
Cool as quickly as possible and keep in a cold place.

Holding Process — Heat until milk reaches 140° to 150° F.
Hold at this temperature for about 30 minutes.

Pasteurized milk, if kept too long, is apt to putrefy instead
of becoming sour. If any pasteurized milk is left over and
there is danger of its spoiling before it can be used, it may be
mixed with a little sour milk and set in a warm place until
it all becomes sour. Sour milk may be kept for some days.

TO BOIL MILK

Flash Method — Put it into a shallow pan and cook quickly
over direct heat so that the milk is brought as rapidly as possible
to the boiling-point. Stir constantly to prevent scorching,
making the figure eight with the spoon, as this brings the spoon
the greatest number of times in contact with the part of the
kettle receiving the most heat.

When the milk has boiled up once, remove from the fire
and cool as rapidly as possible.

^|THE MACHINE BEATS TIME
AS WELL AS BATTER WHILE
» YOU SUPPLY THE BRAIN THAT
I MAKES THE CAKE

riE LEMON
DOES THE TRICK
WHEN YOU'RE WHIP-
PING MILK OR CREAM
INTO SHAPE
— Irradiated Evaporated
Milk Institute

HAVE EVERYTHING READY BE-
FORE YOU START J

USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 33

Milk boiled by this rapid method is believed to be less affected
in nutritive value than pasteurized milk.

Boiled milk, like pasteurized milk, spoils rather than sours.

TO WHIP CREAM

To whip easily cream must be thick. This requires that it
must contain not less than 20 per cent butter fat. Best results
are obtained when it contains 25 to 40 per cent butter fat.

Fresh cream does not whip well even when it contains more
than 20 per cent butter fat. This is because lactic acid is
produced as cream ages, and the acid thickens the cream. The
addition of one-half teaspoon commercial lactic acid to each
pint of cream will do the same thing that is accomplished by
twelve to twenty-four hours standing.

Warm cream will not whip well because warmth thins cream.
As cream is chilled, the fat congeals and the cream thickens.
Cream set on the ice for two hours will whip easily, if it is rich
enough and old enough. The best temperature for whipping
cream is between 3 5° and 50° Fahrenheit. Cream is doubled in
bulk after whipping.

TO WHIP EVAPORATED MILK

Milk, bowl and beater should be thoroughly chilled to about
40° F. If the milk fails to whip, it is not cold enough. Scalding
the milk prior to chilling causes it to whip a little more
readily and somewhat stiffer, but scalding is not absolutely
necessary. To scald the milk, cover the unopened cans with
cold water. Bring water to a boil and continue boiling for £.ye
minutes.

Lemon juice can be added for even greater and "permanent"
stiffness, when the lemon flavor is suitable to the food with which
the whipped milk is to be combined. When lemon juice is used,
first whip the milk until stiff. Then add two tablespoons of
lemon juice for every cup of milk. Continue whipping long
enough to blend in the lemon juice.

Evaporated milk has only about one -fifth of the amount of
fat contained in whipping cream. Instead, it has a much greater
content of whole milk solids. For that reason it is an ideal
ingredient for a dessert which completes an already rich meal.

ALKALINE AND ACID-FORMING FOODS

Alkaline or Base-Forming Foods

Acid-Forming Foods

Olives

Berries

Bread, white and

Carrots

Broccoli

whole wheat

Turnips and tops

Brussels Sprouts

Barley

Beans, lima, kidney,

Buttermilk

Cheese, all but cream

navy, soy

Cabbage

Com, fresh, canned

Beets

Cauliflower

and dried

Gtron

Celery, Chard

Cornmeal

Dates

Cherries

Crackers

Potatoes

Chestnuts

Cranberries

Bananas

Chicory, Endive

Eggs, whole

Rutabagas

Cream

Fish, fresh

Cantaloupe

Cheese, cream

Fish, smoked

Sweet potatoes

Cucumbers

Lentils

Beans, pods, snap

Eggplant

Meats, fresh

Oranges or juice

Grapefruit

Meats, smoked

Radishes

Kohlrabi

Oatmeal

Tomatoes

Lettuce

Oysters

Lemons or juice

Milk

Peanuts

Pears

Molasses

Poultry

Watermelon

Parsnips

Prunes, Plums

Apples

Peaches, Figs

Rice

Almonds

Peas, fresh, canned

Walnuts

Apricots

and dried

Wheat, flour and

Asparagus

Pineapple

cereals

A KiTCHEN COLLECTION TO GLADDEN THE HEART OF THE MOST ARDENT GADGETEER

l%#

HOW TO BUY FOOD

THOUGHT should be given to the expenditure of the money
allotted to food, as a balanced diet, so necessary to health,
depends on the wise apportionment of that allowance. The fol-
lowing rules apply to the average healthy family; they may be
modified by each housewife to meet her own special needs.

Milk

Spend as much for milk as is necessary to secure for each child
three-quarters of a quart to a quart of milk a day and for every-
one else in the family from one-third to one-half quart of
milk a day. If you can not afford whole milk, buy skim milk
for the children. Cheese may replace a part of the milk for
adults if they prefer it. Two ounces of cheese may be substi-
tuted for about one-third of a quart of milk.

Fruits and Vegetables

It is desirable to include fruit twice a day. Use fresh fruits
in the height of their season. When they are cheapest, preserve
them for winter use. Dried fruits, such as prunes, apricots,
peaches and raisins, can always be bought in the markets and
are probably the most inexpensive of all fruits. Oranges are
particularly wholesome and should be used as often as possible
unless replaced by tomatoes.

Women and little children will eat about two average potatoes
and ^ lb. other vegetables daily. Adolescents and men at hard
work can eat two to three times that amount.

Cereals

Buy cereals in variety. Be sure to include a generous pro-
portion of cereals made from the whole grain. These contain
elements of nutrition that are lost when the outer coat is
removed, and also furnish part of the necessary roughage in the
diet. Such cereals are especially desirable when it is difficult to
use as great a quantity of vegetables and fruits as these rules call
for.

Fat

For each grown person, every day, buy at least one and one-
half ounces of fat (butter, cooking fat, cream, fat from meat,
etc.). For children buy at least one-half as much, unless the
chMd is getting a quart of whole milk daily; in that case^ he is
getting a large part of his fat allowance in the milk.

Meat and Other Protein Food

Ordinarily, do not try to serve flesh foods (meat, fish, and
poultry) more than once a day. Milk, eggs, and cheese supply
a desirable quality of protein or muscle-building foods and
may be served instead of meat. The more milk one has, the
less meat he needs. Peas, beans and cereals can not replace the
high-quality protein found in meat, eggs, milk and cheese, but
they have great value in supplementing the animal proteins. If
they are used instead of meat, some milk, eggs or cheese should
be included in the meal. The weekly allowance of meat foods
need not be higher than one and three-quarters pounds for each
person in the family, in order to furnish appetizing meals. This
means an average daily portion of not more than a quarter of a
pound.

A child under four or five years of age is well off without
any meat at all. If he has an egg every day in addition to his
three-fourths of a quart or quart of milk allowance, he will get
adequate protein food.

A child four or five years old may have a little meat-food
in addition to his milk allowance. He should have no more
than a small serving (an ounce or less) each day of lean beef^
mutton, lamb, chicken, lean fish or oysters.

Sweets

Buy only moderate amounts of sugar, molasses, honey or
sirup.

How to Select Canned and Package Goods

If the average household is to be supplied with the vegetables
and fruits needed in the abundance recommended in this book,
some provision must be made to have a supply on hand during
the months when fresh products are not available. In some

HOW TO BUY FOOD 37

households, these will be stored, canned, or otherwise preserved
at home. In others, they must be purchased fresh from the
market or bought in preserved form from the dealer.

It would be a profitable thing for every housewife to learn
sizes in canned gpods and demartd certain standards. She should
keep a record of good and poor grades so that she may ask for
the quality she prefers. Canned goods that are used frequently
should be purchased in case lots, as a wholesale or reduced price
can be obtained in that way.

The canneries have the sizes of cans well standardized and the
housewife will find it to her advantage to know the common
sizes. The following list gives the size of the can by numbei
together with an approximate estimate of its contents:

Standard Sizes in Cans and What They Contain

No. y^. cans — ^sardines, potted meats such as deviled ham,
condensed milk — contain 4 to 4 J/2 oz.; approximately Yz cup.

No. Yz cans — ^shrimp, lobster, salmon, pimiento, condensed
milk — contain 754 to 8 oz.; approximately 1 cup.

No. 1 cans (short or small)— tunafish, canned soup, milk,
boned meats such as chicken — contain 10 to 13 oz.; approxi-
mately 154 cups.

No. 1 cans (tall or square) — salmon, asparagus tips — contain
1 lb.; approximately 2 cups.

No. 2 cans — vegetables such as peas, corn, beans and some
fruits, such as pineapple and berries — contain 1 lb. 4 oz.;
approximately 2{/2 to 3 cups.

No. 2 Yz cans — fruits such as pineapple, peaches, pears, plums,
berries; also many vegetables, such as beets, asparagus stalks in
square tins, spinach — contain 1 lb. 14 oz. to 1 lb. 15 oz.;
approximately 3 54 cups.

No. 3 cans — tomatoes, beets, sauerkraut, pumpkin and fruits
— contain 2 lbs. to 2 lbs. 1 oz. ; approximately 4 cups.

No. 10 cans — mince-meat, apple sauce, marmalades, jamsj^
pickles, sauerkraut, baked beans, corn on cob, in fact, nearly
all canned goods for large quantity use — contain 6 lbs. 8 oz. to
7 lbs. and over for fruits and vegetables and 7 lbs. 8 oz. to 8
lbs. 12 oz. for marmalades and jams. Approximately 3^
quarts.

While the size of can is standardized, there is a variation in
weights of cans put up by different canneries. This difference

in weight is probably due to a more solid pack or a greater
density in sirup content in the heavier cans and, this being the
case, the housewife should know not only the number but also
the weight she can expect in a can of any given size.

WHEN YOU DO YOUR
KITCHEN SEE THAT
THINGS MOVE FROM
LEFT TO RIGHT TOWARD
THE DINING-ROOM DOOR

DINING R.OOM
POOR.

3CALE IN PEET

FOOD VALUES AND MEAL
PLANNING

' I ^ODAY the modern woman carefully plans her meals. She
-*• realizes that meals must appeal to the appetite and to the
eye, but what is more important, they must be properly bal-
anced to build healthy bodies, to stimulate vigor and energy,
and to build up resistance against the elements and disease. The
modern woman, in preparing a food budget, knows that bulky
foods are essential, but not any more or less than the powerful,
natural chemicals which we know today as vitamins. The
modern woman has learned to distinguish between vitamins and
calories. She knows that vitamins have to do with the chemical
properties of many kinds of food, supplying the resistance-
building and life-giving properties we shall discuss shortly at
greater length. Calories, on the other hand, are units of heat
formed during digestion of many foods and varying in a re-
markable degree with the kinds of food eaten. Fresh vegetables
and fruits provide little heat when digested and hence are said
to be "low in calories," while fats, starches and sugars produce a
high degree of heat and so are called "high calorie foods." When
more of these are eaten than can be used up as energy, the
remainder is deposited as fat. That is why we gain weight by
eating foods of high caloric content and lose when their amount
is reduced.

WHAT TO BUY TO BUILD HEALTHFUL MENUS

The food dollar will be used to advantage and serve all its
necessary purposes, if it is divided into five, spent and served as
follows:

One-Fifth or more for whole milk, cream, cheese and cod-liver oil for growing
children. Plan to give each child 1 quart and each adult at least 1 pint of
milk in some form, per day.

One-Fifth for vegetables and fruit, with emphasis on the green leaf and yellow
fruits and vegetables. Serve at least 1 cooked vegetable, besides potatoes,
and 1 fresh vegetable each day. Serve fresh fruit twice a day, with citrus
fruit at least once.

One-Fifth or less for meats, fish and eggs, serving liver in some form at least
once a week.

One-Fifth for breads and cereals, especially the whole grains.

One-Fifth for fats, sugar and other groceries.

WHAT FOOD MATERIALS DO FOR THE BODY

The healthy body is built and maintained by:
Protein — whelps make flesh and blood
Calcium — for bone, teeth, glands, nerve and muscle
Phosphorus — for bones, teeth, glands, muscle and nerve
Iron — with Copper and Manganese to help make blood
Iodine — for the funaioning of the thyroid gland
Fat — heat, energy and padding for nerve and muscle
Sugars and Starches; — supply heat and energy as well as fat — necessary for
the proper functioning of the liver and the digestion of fat

Health can not be maintained nor the body function properly
without abundant supplies of Vitamins. They are:
Vitamin A — ^promotes growth, increases resistance to infeaive

diseases and prevents certain eye diseases
Vitamin B — ^promotes growth, stimulates appetite, protects nerve

and brain tissue and function
Vitamin C — ^promotes growth, protects jawbone and teeth and the

walls of the blood vessels
Vitamin D — ^promotes calcification of teeth and bones, hence

protects against rickets and its deformities
Vitamin E — ^proteas the growth and funaion of the reproduaive

glands and organs
Vitamin F — ^promotes growth and protects skin, hair and kidneys
Vitamin G — ^promotes growth and normal nutrition and prevents pellagra

WHERE TO FIND THESE BUILDING AND
PROTECTING FOODS

PROTEIN jMilk, eggs, cheese, all meat, poultry and game, all fish and sea

"Xfoods, peas, beans, corn, all nuts, all grains.
CALCIUM rCheese, almonds, milk, green vegetables and tops, dried peas,

l^beans, figs and dates, all sea food, egg yolk, olives, pecans.

rCheese, cashew nuts, almonds, dried peas, beans, lentils, Lima
PHOSPHORUS 4 beans, all salt-water fish, liver, egg yolk, chocolate, unrefined

[grains, all meats and poultry, walnuts, peanuts, pecans.

("Liver (calf, chicken, lamb), oysters, green vegetables and tops,
IRON 4 egg yolk, dried peas, beans, lentils, Lima beans, raisins, currants,

[dates, prunes, avocados, almonds, fresh meats.
COPPER fAlmonds, oysters, oatmeal, dried lentils, beans and peas, huckle*
MANGANESE \ berries, dates, pecans, shrimp, turnip tops, whole wheat.

{Sea foods and salt-water fish are the best sources of iodine, also
iodized salt and cod-liver oil.
TButter, cheese, nuts, cream, fat meats, poultry and fish, margarine,
FATS -j lard, fish carmed in oil, cottonseed oil, corn oil, olive oil, cod-liver

[oil, avocado, egg yolk, chocolate, olives.

r Sugar, molasses, honey, dried fruits, sweet chocolate, maple sugar

SUGARS "^^aind sirup, sorghum, jams, jellies, preserves, beets.

^^^ r Potato, sweet potato and yams, rice, corn, tapioca, cornstarch,

STARCHES 4 arrowroot, all dried peas and beans, lentils, all grains, all floors,

[Jerusalem artichokes, winter squashes, pumpkin, okra, all nuts.

FOOD VALUES AND MEAL PLANNING

THE VITAMIN CONTENT

IMPORTANT FOODS

Food

Vitamin
A

Vitamin
B

Vitamin
C

Vitamin
G

Almonds ,

Apples

Apricots

Asparagus

Avocado

Bacon

Bananas

Barley, whole

Beans, dry or canned

Beans, string

Beef

Beef fat

Beets (roots)

Beet leaves

Brains

Brazil nuts

Bread, white, watcrf

Bread, white, milkf

Bread, whole wheat, watcrf .
Bread, whole wheat, milkf. .

Broccoli

Butter*

Buttermilk

Cabbage, green, raw

Cabbage, head, cooked

Cantaloupe

Carrots

Caifliflower

Celery, bleached stems

Celery, green leaves

Chard

Cheese, whole milk*

Cheese, cottage

Cherries

Chestnuts

Chinese cabbage

Coconut

Cod-liver oilff

Collards

Corn, yellow

Corn meal

Corn oil

Cottonseed oil

Cranberry (or juice)

A
AA

— to A
A to AA

A
AA

A
A

AAAA

AAA

AA
A

AAA

— to A
AA
AA

AA to AAA
A
AA

A
AAA
AAA

AA
AtoAA

BB
BtoBB

BBB
BtoBB
BtoBB

BB
BB
BB

B
BBB
BBB
BB

BB
BB
BB
BB
BB
BB
BB
BB
BtoBB

BB
BB

BB
BB
B

CC
C

-toC

-toC
C

CCC

C
CCC

CC
CCC

CC
CC

GG
GG
GG

G
GG
GG

G
GGG

GGG

GGG
GG
GG
GG
GG
GG

G
G

G
G
GG

GG
G

* Supplies a small amount of Vitamin D
+ When irradiated, an cxceJIent source of Vitamin D
tt An excellent source of Vitamins A and D

Food

Cream

Cress

Cucumber

Dandelion greens

Dasheens

Dates...,

Eggs...

Egg white

Egg yolk*

Eggplant

Endive

Escarolc

Figs

Filberts

Fish, fat*

Fish, lean

Grapefruit (or juice, fresh or canned)

Grapes

Grape juice

Ham

Heart

Hickory nuts

Ice cream (regular)

Kale

Kidney

Kohlrabi

Lemon juice

Lettuce

Limes (or juice)

Liver

Mangoes

Milk, wholet

Milk, "scalded"

Milk, condensedf

Milk, cvaporatedt

Milk, dried, whole

Milk, dried, skim

Milk, fresh, skim

Molasses

Mutton

Oatmeal

Okra

Onions, raw

Onions, cooked

Orange (or juice)

Orange peel

Oysters

Parsley

Parsnips

Peaches, raw

Vitamin

AAA

ccc

— to A

AAA

—

AAA

B toBB

—

AAA

—

AAA

—

Cto —

—

— to A

—

CCC

Cto —

—

B to-

—

— to A

—

AAA

—

ccc

A to AA

—

AA to AAA

c •

AAA

ccc

AAA

—

AAA

BB
B
BB

— to A

—

— to A

ccc

AAA

ccc

— to A

—

A to AA

BtoBB

* Supplies a small amount of Vitamin D

t When irradiated, ao excellent source of Vitamin D

FOOD VALUES AND MEAL PLANNING

Food

Vitamin

—

ccc

—

ccc

AAA

—

ccc

—

— to A

—

— to A

—

ccc

—

— to A

ccc

—

AAA

CtoCC

—

AAA

—

ccc

—

ccc

—

AAA

ccc

— to A

AAA

ccc

— to A

—

AAA

ccc

— .

BBB

—

BBB

—

GGG

—

BBB

—

GGG

Peanuts

Peanut butter

Pears

Peas, green

Peas, dry

Pecans

Peppers, green

Pimientos

Pine nuts

Pineapple, raw

Pineapple, canned .
Pork

Potatoes, white

Prunes

Pumpkin

Radish

Raisins

Raspberries

Rhubarb

Rice, white

Rice, whole grain or brown

Roe, fish

Romaine

Rutabaga

Rye, whole

Salmon, canned

Sauerkraut

Shrimp

Spinach

Squash, Hubbard

Squash, summer

Strawberries

Swede

Sweetbreads

Sweet potatoes

Tomato, raw or canned . . . .

Turnip

Turnip greens

Veal.

Walnuts

Water cress

Watermelon

Wheat bran

Wheat embryo

Wheat, whole

Yeastt

Yeast bouillonf

t WhcQ irradiated, aa excellent source of Vitamin D

THE NUMBER OF CALORIES

m
YOUR USUAL SERVINGS

Food Calories

Almonds, 12 : 100

Almonds, chocolate, 5 100

Apple 34

Apple, baked, 2 teaspoons sugar 200

Apple, baked, 1 teaspoon sugar 150

Apple, brown Betty, J^ cup 250

Apple pie 300-350

Apple tapioca, J^ cup 205

Asparagus, 10 large stalks, no butter 50

Asparagus, 10 large stalks, with butter 150

Asparagus, 10 large stalks, with Hollandaise sauce 240

Avocado, J^ fruit 120-300

Bacon, broiled, four small slices 100

Banana, average size 100

Beans, dried 393

Lima beans, dried 398

Beans, string, }^ to 1 cup serving 22-44

Beef, round steak, lean, 4-ounce serving 170-220

Beet greens, J^ cup serving 22

Beets, red 50

Blackberries, fresh, J^ cup 100

Blackberries, cooked, with sugar, )^ cup 200

Blueberries, fresh, ]/2 cup 160

Bluefish, broiled, small serving 100

Brazil nuts, 2 100

Bread, white 70

Bread, Boston brown 52

Broccoli 45

Butter, 1 teaspoon 100

Butter, ordinary serving 50-100

Cabbage, cooked 32

Cabbage, raw, shredded, 3^ cup 13

Cantaloupe, J^ 50

Carrots 30-40

Cauliflower 25

Celery 15

Cream of celery soup, per cup 200

Chard 36

Cheese, 1-inch cube 70

Cherries, 10 large ones 50

Chestnuts, 7 average 100

Chicken, roast, small slice 100

Chocolate cake 200

Chocolate cream candy, average piece 80-100

Chocolate cream mint, Ij^-inch diameter 100

Chocolate drop cookie, 2-iQch diameter 60

FOOD VALUES AND MEAL PLANNING 45

Food Calories

Chocolate eclair 260-400

Chocolate fudge, 1-inch cube 80-90

Chocolate malted milk, large glass 465

Coleslaw, 3^ cup 50

Corn bread, average piece 120

Corn flakes, % cup 100

Crackers, graham 100

Crackers, soda 85

Cream, heavy, per teaspoon 60

Cream, whipped, per teaspoon 35

Cream, thin, per teaspoon 30

Cucumbers 12^

Currants, dry, ^ cup 182

Cup custard, J^ cup 150

Dates, 3 or 4 100

Doughnut 200

Duck, small helping 120

Egg 70-75

Eggnog, 1 cup 200

Farina, cooked, ^ cup 100

Fig, average, dry 100

Filberts, 8 to 10 100

French dressing, 1 teaspoon 67

Grapefruit, 3^, average size 70

Grapefruit, J^, average size, with honey or sugar 140

Grapefruit juice 45

Grape juice 100

Grapes, large bunch 100

Grapes, Malaga, 20 to 25 '. 100

Griddle cake, 4 or 5 inch 100

Halibut 85-110

Ham 270-400

Hard sauce, 1 teaspoon 100

Hominy, dry 400

Honey, 1 teaspoon .* 25

Kale, cooked without fat, % ^^V 20

Kohlrabi, creamed, 3^ cup 100

Lemon 30

Lemon meringue pie 450

Lettuce, 34 head 12

Lettuce, 34 head, with salad dressing 100-150

Liver, }4, pound 145-220

Macaroni 425-50O

Macaroons, each 50

Mackerel 85-100

Mayonnaise dressing, 1 teaspoon 100

Milk, per glass 110-170

Milk, irradiated evaporated, 1 cup, diluted to drink 175

Mince pie 45O

Muffin , , I25-I5O

Food Calories

Mutton 225-500

Napoleon, average size 453

Oatmeal 150-250

Olives, each I5

Onions, cooked 50-60

Orange 100

Orange juice, small glass 50

Oysters, average size 6-16

Peaches, fresh 35

Peaches, canned, 1 with 3 teaspoons juice 100

Peanuts, 3^ pound 620

Peas, fresh, cooked, Ys cup 50

Peas, dry, cooked 400

Pecans, 6 nuts 100

Peppers, green, average size 20

Pineapple, canned, 1 slice, 3 teaspoons juice 100

Pineapple, fresh 50

Plums, 3 or 4 large, fresh 100

Popover 100

Pork 300-620

Pork, salt 1000

Potato, 1, average size 100

Potato chips, 8 to 10 100

Prunes, average size, 1 25

Pumpkin pie 225

Radish, average size 3

Raisin pie 450

Rice, steamed, }4 cup 70

Rice pudding, plain, 3^ cup 200

Rice pudding, with egg, 34 cup 133

Salmon, canned 225

Shrimps, without oil, each 5

Spinach 25

Squash pie 225

Strawberries, "^ cup 65

Strawberry shortcake 480

Strawberry shortcake, with whipped cream 530

Sugar, 1 teaspoon 17

Sweet potato }-^

Tomato, fresh or canned 105

Tomato juice ^5

Tuna, canned with oil. jl5

Tuna, canned without oil l^^

Turnips ^5

Turnip greens ^5

Vanilla sundae with chocolate sauce r?^ -,«,.

Veal 115-200

Walnuts, 6 1°9

Water cress 1^

Watermelon 15

Wheat breakfast food, 1 ounce 1^

MENU MAKING

ALTHOUGH it is desirable that each meal should be well
selected, the food for the entire day is the real measure of
good nutrition. The food -selection chart should be used to de-
termine the types of food to be selected. The art of combining
these foods into wholesome and satisfying meals is the art of
menu making.

Every meal should be planned to meet first the needs of the
youngest and weakest member of the family. Foods that are
good for children are equally good for adults but foods that
are good for adults may be very bad for children. It is easier
to suit a child's dietary to the adult than to suit an adult's
dietary to a child.

Points to Keep in Mind in Making Menus

In order to encourage good digestion and to make sure that
the family enjoys the meal as well as receives benefit from it,
all of the following factors should be considered:

The Staying Quality of Food— Does it leave the stomach
quickly or slowly? For healthy, active adults working out-
doors, a great deal of food that has considerable staying quality
may be highly desirable. For indoor workers and for children
this type of food may be the wrong choice.

Fats and fat-rich foods all have staying quality. Cream
sauces, cereals and similar foods have moderate staying qualities.
Liquid foods, foods containing meat-juices or fruit acids are
likely to encourage quick passage of food along the digestive
tract. This is one reason for beginning a meal with meat soup
or fruit in some form.

The Most Satisfactory Conditions of digestion and elimi-
nation are encouraged by use of generous amounts of bulky,
moist foods, such as fruits, succulent vegetables, whole cereals
and water.

Too Much Sweet Food should not be included, since it may
give rise to excessive fermentation in the digestive tract.

Too Much Meat and Eggs should not be included, since

tliey may give rise to excessive putrefaction in the digestive
tract.

The Texture of Food plays an important part in its attrac-
tiveness. Crisp foods should be associated with soft ones.
Variations in texture, even in a single dish, always appeal: oat-
meal with cream and a sprinkle of coarse sugar; rice pudding
with raisins; ice-cream with cake; crackers with cheese; crisp
salad with soft dressing.

The Appearance of Food is important to civilized man.
Beautiful color and dainty, attractive arrangement play a large
part in a successful meal.

The Flavor of Food plays an important part. Too often,
however, food is selected only on the basis of what tastes good.
The main background of the diet should be made up of bland,
mild-flavored foods, like milk, bread, cereals, many vegetables.
The accent should come by the use of the more highly flavored
foods such as meat, fruit, sugar, condiments and herbs of
various kinds.

Suggestions for the General Plan of a Day's Meals

Breakfast

Fruit, fresh, canned, dried, or fresh stewed.

Milk, or cocoa made with milk, for the children. Milk^
cocoa, tea, coflFee or other beverage for adults. Milk on cereal
for all the family.

Cereal, preferably whole, for all the family.

Bread, toast or muffins with butter.

If a heartier meal is needed, it may be desirable to add eggs,
bacon or other fat meat, and potatoes, adapting the method of
cooking to the children.

Doughnuts, cookies, jam, jelly, marmalade, and pancakes
with sirup should be considered desserts, even at breakfast time,}
to be eaten only after more wholesome foods have been taken.

Lunch or Supper

An egg, cheese or milk dish.

Succulent vegetable or salad.

Bread and butter, toast, muffins, or plain sandwiches.

Milk for children. Any preferred beverage for adults.

IvlENU MAKING 49

Sweets in moderation. Only light desserts such as fruit,
simple pudding, and cookies should be served at supper.

The meal may be made more elaborate, if desired, but should
always partake of simplicity.

Dinner

Meat or other flesh or an egg or cheese dish. Dried beans
may be used if milk or eggs are provided in the meal.

Potatoes, unless the meal includes dried beans, macaroni or
rice.

Another vegetable. Two vegetables (not potatoes) should
be used with dried beans, macaroni or rice.

Bread and butter.

Salad may be served in addition to the meal or in the place
of dessert. Raw vegetables that may be served as salad are
particularly desirable.

Sweets in moderation.

If all the milk that a person requires has not been used, the
remaining amount may be served as a beverage.

If a more elaborate dinner is desired, the meal may begin
with soup or an appetizer, such as a fruit cocktail or grapefruit^
oysters in some form, or a canape. The problem of the formal
meal is discussed in the section that follows the simple menus
given below.

SIMPLE MENUS

Breakfasts

Strawberries with Cream Baked Pears

Corn Flakes Graham Muffins French Toast Maple Sirup

CoflFee Milk Coffee Milk

c, J A • Sliced Oranges

r> ^fT u ?f' ''°'' A -r Scrambled Eggs and Bacon

Corn-meal Mush Buttered Toast r^ ^ ^

Coffee Milk

Toast
Coffee Milk

Granular Wheat with Raisins Grapefruit

and Top Milk Codfish Balls

Oatmeal Gems Eggs Baldng Powder Biscuits

Coffee Milk Coffee Milk

Breakfasts — Continued
Any Fruit in Season Oatmeal with Top Milk

Ham Omelet Graham Biscuits or Bacon and Eggs

Coffee Milk Toast Marmalade

Coffee Milk

Oatmeal and Prunes

with Top Milk

Corn Muflfins Boiled Eggs

Coffee Milk

Hot Baked Apples

Sausage Cakes Popovers

Coffee Milk

Ready to Eat Cereal

Sliced Bananas with Top Milk

Poached Eggs on Toast Toast

Coffee Milk

Luncheons or Suppers

Banana and Nut Salad
Muffins Honey Milk

Tea

Spaghetti with Tomato Sauce

Waldorf Salad

Brown Bread Sandwiches

Milk Tea

Delmonico Potatoes

Corn Oysters Canned Fruit

Molasses Cookies

Cream of Potato Soup Wafers

Asparagus Salad

Toast Apple Jelly

Cocoa

Cream of Tomato Soup
Apple and Celery Salad

Saltines
Rolls

Creamed Salmon on Toast
Graham Bread and Butter
Sliced Oranges with Coconut

Cream of Potato Soup

Toasted Cheese Sandwiches

Fresh Fruit

Potato Salad
Sausages or Cold Ham
Apple Sauce Biscuits

Lima Beans in Casserole Muffins

Grapefruit and Celery Salad

Tea Milk

Cream of Tomato

Soup

Croutons

Brown

Bread Sandwiches

with Cheese Filling

Fruit Salad

Tea

Milk

Cabbage au Gratin
Plain Sandwiches

Lettuce Salad with French
Dressing

Apricot and Rice Pudding

MENU MAKING

Luncheons or Suppers — Continued

Pork and Beans

Pickle, Celery and Lettuce Salad

Brown Bread Plum Sauce

Tea Milk

Macaroni and Cheese

Stewed Tomatoes Bread

Baked Apple with Tapioca

Tea Milk

Creamed Salmon Baked Potatoes

Pickles Bread

Orange and Bermuda Onion Salad

Tea Milk

Scalloped Oysters

Toasted English Muffins

Canned or Fresh Fruit

Tea Milk

Cheese Souffle Baked Potatoes

Waldorf Salad Rolls

Cocoa

Cold Meat

Tomato and Celery Salad

Hot Gingerbread and Whipped

Cream

Bread

Tea Milk

Cheese Fondue Vegetable Salad

Bread

Cereal Pudding with Dates

Grapefruit
Tunafish Salad

French Fried Potatoes

Graham Gems
Floating Island Custard

Luncheons or Suppers Without Meat

Creamed Asparagus on Toast
Stewed Tomatoes

Cottage-Cheese Salad
Prune Whip Custard Sauce

Lettuce and Peanut Butter

Sandwiches

Banana Salad

Apple Sauce Cookies Milk

Stuffed Baked Potatoes

Cheese, Pickle and Pea Salad

Drop Biscuits

Pineapple Ginger Snaps

Scalloped Oysters Waldorf Salad

Graham Muffins

Floating Island Custard

Tea

Tomato Soup

Rice Croquettes with Cheese

Sauce

Green Peas

Baked Apple with Raisins

and Nuts

Milk

Brown-Bread and Cream-Cheese

Sandwiches
Apricots Vanilla Wafers

Tea or Milk

A Vegetable Luncheon

On one plate a small serving

four or five vegetables, as:

Potato Turnips Squash

A Green Vegetable

Beets Carrots

Dinners

Broiled Steak
Mashed Potatoes

Asparagus Salad
Rolls Butter Grape Conserve
Chocolate Pudding

Hamburg Steak with Tomato
Sauce
Potato Cakes

Creamed Cauliflower
Rolls Butter

Cranberry Sauce Cookies

Breaded Pork Chops Gravy

Riced Potatoes Buttered Spinach

Combination Fruit Salad

Bread Wafers

Liver and Bacon

Creamed Potatoes
Cabbage and Celery Salad
Bread
Sliced Bananas with Lemon- Juice

Veal Cutlets in Casserole
Creamed Potatoes Eggplant

"Watercress Salad
Apple Pie Cheese Coffee

Stuffed Beef Heart

Glazed Sweet Potatoes

Buttered Turnips Cole Slaw

Tapioca Cream Coffee

Clear Vegetable Soup

Roast Chicken Giblet Gravy

Boiled Rice Wax Beans

Asparagus Salad

Fnxit Gelatin Coffee

Swiss Steak Baked Potatoes

Creamed Onions

Caramel Rennet-Custard Pudding

Pot Roast in Tomato Sauce

Potatoes

Buttered Peas Brown Bread

Fresh Vegetable Salad

Fruit Jelly with Custard Sauce

Grapefruit Broiled Steak

Potatoes on the Half Shell

Spinach Hot Rolls

Chocolate Ice-cream

with Mint Sauce

Roast Mutton Brown Gravy

Creamed Turnips

Mashed Potatoes

Currant Jelly Bread

Lemon Sponge with Custard

Sauce

Coffee

Roast Beef Brown Gravy

Mustard or Horseradish Sauce

Franconia Potatoes

Fried Parsnips

Pumpkin Pie spread with Plum

Jam and Whipped Cream

Roast Pork Brown Gravy

Apple Sauce or Small Baked

Apples

Glazed Sweet Potatoes Spinach

Macedoine of Fruit with Whipped

Cream

Sponge Cakes

Meat Loaf Scalloped Potatoes

Peas Nut Bread

Lettuce Salad, Thousand Island

Dressing

Fresh or Canned Fruit

Small Cakes

MENU MAKING

Dinners — Continued

Pork Chops Baked with Apples

Scalloped Potatoes

String Beans Bread

Indian Pudding

Fish Chowder with Water Wafers

Grapefruit Salad

Graham Bread and Butter

Queen of Puddings

Broiled Chicken Riced Potatoes

Corn Fritters Rolls

Tomato Jelly Salad

Apple Pie with Cheese

Meat

Pie with Potatoes, Carrots
and Turnips
Tomato Salad Bread
Prune Whip Custard Sauce

Broiled Halibut

Creamed Potatoes
Chili Sauce
Cole Slaw Brown Bread
Rice Custard

Tomato Soup Bread Sticks

Baked Ham

Southern Sweet Potatoes

Green Peas Rolls

Lettuce Salad French Dressing

Meringues with Fruit and

Whipped Cream

Coffee

Cream of Corn Soup

Baked Hash Spinach with Egg

Chocolate Bread Pudding

Coffee

Salmon Loaf with Creamed Peas

Mashed Potatoes

Apple and Celery Salad

Banana Cream Pie

Fruit Cocktail

Stuffed Turbans of Flounders

French Fried Potatoes

Creamed Peas Bread or Rolls

Tomato Salad

Fruit Ice Cakes Coffee

Dinners Without Meat

Cheese Souffle

Mashed Potatoes

Buttered String Beans

Radish and Cucumber Salad

Strawberry Shortcake

Cream of Vegetable Soup

Scalloped Tomatoes

Stuffed Baked Potatoes with

Cheese

Waldorf Salad Corn Muffins

Creamed Rice Pudding

with Apricots

Chilled Fruit
Stuffed Tomatoes

Parsley Potatoes
Creamed Asparagus
Pumpkin Pie Milk

Baked Rice and Cheese

Buttered Beets

Stuffed OHve and Lettuce Salad

Nut Bread Milk

Date Pudding Lemon Sauce

RoUs

Boston Roast
Spinach with Eggs

Head Lettuce Salad
Bread Pudding with Cream Sauce

The Problem of the Formal Meal

The purpose of food is to satisfy hunger and to give pleasure.
After hunger is satisfied, more food is a hindrance to health.
After the appetite has been stimulated by a variety of foods, to
stimulate it further jades it.

At one time it was the custom to serve long and elaborate
dinners having many courses and much repetition of type foods.
Gradually the realization has grown that elaborate meals are
not justified from any point of view, social, physiological or
economic, and that even the most formal meal must follow the
rules of health.

Formal meals which conform to laws of health and good taste
may be arranged according to the following general plan:

First Course

The Appetizer — Any one of the following types of dishes,
with proper accompaniments, serves to whet the appetite:

Canapes or tiny open sandwiches made with highly flavored
mixtures. Raw oysters or clams; oyster or clam cocktails.
Grapefruit or fruit cocktail; avocado served with lemon- juice;
cantaloup, watermelon or similar fruit. Soup, preferably a
clear stock soup.

Second Course

To Satisfy the Appetite — ^For dinners, the piece de resis-
tance, or main course, may be any one of the following — roasts
of meat, poultry, baked fish or game, with the proper accom-
paniments of vegetables and a starchy food such as rice or
macaroni.

For luncheons, the main course may be any one of the fol-
lowing— a small steak, chops, made dishes or entrees of meat,
fish, poultry, game, eggs, or cheese, served with a succulent
vegetable, preferably a green vegetable, and rolls.

Third Course

Light, Refreshing and Crisp — The salad course may be
any simple vegetable salad with a suitable accompaniment of

MENU MAKING 55

dressing and breadstuff. Meat salads or heavy mixed or com-
plicated salads should not be served in this type of meal.

Fourth Course

The Sweet or Bonne Bouche — ^This course may consist of
any frozen dessert, sponge, whip, meringue with fruit, or any
individual tart or pastry.

Fifth Course

To Keep the Sweet from Being Too Well Remembered
— ^This course includes a demi-tasse of coffee, with sugar, and
cream if desired. It may include fruit or crackers and a cheese
with high flavor.

If the person giving a formal dinner or lunch has not been
converted to the new idea of simplicity and desires a more
elaborate meal than the type just outlined, more courses may be
introduced. An entree may come between the appetizer and
the main course. Soup may follow fruit or raw oysters. Fish,
may be served as a separate course, with meat to follow. An
entree may be introduced between the fish and meat courses.
All of these procedures are correct by custom.

Order of Courses

The courses in a meal are served in the following order:

1. Appetizer 6. Salad

2. Soup 7. Dessert

3. Fish 8. Crackers and Cheese with Coffee

4. Roast 9. Nuts and Raisins

5. Game 10. Fruit

For the place of the entree, see chapter. Entrees and Made-
Over Dishes.

MENUS FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS

St. Patrick's Day Luncheon

Cream of Spinach Soup

Fried Chicken Parsley Buttered Potatoes

Green Pepper and Grapefruit Salad

Lemon Ice with Mint Leaves

Small Cakes

Green Mints Coffee Hard Green Candies

Thanksgiving Dinners

No. 1

Clear Soup Bread Sticks

Salted Almonds Celery Olives

Roast Turkey Giblet Sauce Chestnut Stuffing

Mashed Potatoes Brussels Sprouts

Cranberry Jelly

Lettuce or Romaine Salad with French Dressing Cheese Wafers

Frozen Pudding or Hot Mince Pie

Bonbons CofFee

No. 2

Grapefruit Baskets

Olives

Baked Guinea Hen w^th Gravy Crabapple Jelly

Candied Sweet Potatoes Cauliflower au Gratin

Tomato Jelly Salad Graham Bread Sandwiches

Individual Pumpkin Pie with Whipped Cream

Candied Orange Peel

Coffee

No. 3

Grapefruit

Baked Loin of Pork with Gravy Browned Potatoes Apple Sauce

or Baked Ham with Southern Sweet Potatoes

Tomato and Celery Salad French Dressing

Thanksgiving Plum Pudding Foamy Sauce

Coffee

Christmas Dinners

No. 1

Oyster Cocktails in Green Pepper Shells

Celery Ripe Olives

Roast Goose with Potato Stuffing Apple Sauce

String Beans Potato Puff

Lettuce Salad with Riced Cheese and Bar-le-Duc

French Dressing Toasted "Wafers

English Pliun Pudding Bonbons

Coffee

A DASH OF ORIGINALITY IN A SET-
TING OF IMPECCABLE TASTE PRO-
DUCES SUCH BEAUTIFUL TABLES AS
THESE FOR THE BRIDAL BREAKFAST
AND THANKSGIVING DINNER (below)

THE MOST EXQUISITE
CREATIONS OF THE
CLEVER HOSTESS ARE IN
PULLED AND SPUN SUGAR
FOR BRIDAL PARTIES

^^M%;

MENU MAKING 57

No. 2

Cream of Celery Soup Bread Sticks

Salted Peanuts Stuffed Olives

Roast Beef Yorkshire Pudding

Potato Souffle Spinach in Eggs

White Grape Salad with Guava Jelly, French Dressing

Toasted Crackers

Plum Pudding, Hard Sauce Bonbons

Coffee

Wedding Menus

No. 1

Bouillon

Chicken a la King Buttered Rolls

Ohves Celery

Molded Fruit Salad

Ice-cream Bride's Cake Groom's Cake

Coffee Candies

No. 2

Creamed Sweetbreads in Ramekins

Buttered Rolls Olives

Grapefruit Salad Wafers

Ice-cream in Fancy Molds

Bride's Cake Groom's Cake

Coffee Candies

No. 3

Hot or Iced Bouillon in Cups

Creamed Lobster or Shrimps in Croustades

Hot Buttered Rolls Asparagus-tip Salad

Bride's Cake Strawberry Ice-cream Groom's Cake

Candies CoflFee

No. 4

Molded Chicken Salad with Mayonnaise

Olives Radishes

Buttered Rolls

Frozen Strawberries with Whipped Cream

Bride's Cake Groom's Cake

Nuts Coffee Mints

Afternoon Tea

Assorted Sandwiches Small Cakes

Tea passed with Sugar, Cream and Sliced Lemon

Bonbons Nuts

Japanese Tea

Sweet "Wafers Toasted Sponge Cake

Tea with Sliced Lemon

Nougat Candy Salted Nuts

Afternoon or Evening Refreshments
No. 1

Fruit Salad with Mayonnaise, Boiled Dressing or Whipped Cream

Small Sandwiches

Coffee or Chocolate

Candies Small Cakes Nuts

No. 2

Chicken Salad

Olives Rye and "White Bread Sandwiches

Ice-cream or Fruit Ice

Maple Cake Coffee

No. 3

Chicken Salad Sandwiches
Olives
Ice-cream Petits Fours

Fruit Punch CoflFee

Chafing Dish Suppers
No. 1

Fruit Cocktails
Creamed Crab Flakes Bread and Butter Sandwiches

Coffee

No. 2

Welsh Rarebit Toasted Crackers

"Water Cress Salad with French Dressing

Olives Coffee

MENU MAKING 59

Children's Party

Fruit Cocktails

Chicken Sandwiches Jam Sandwidies

Vanilla Ice-cream Small Cakes

Birthday Cake with Name, Date and Candles

Orangeade Candy

School Reception

Fruit Ice or Ice-cream Small Cakes Candies

Punch Nuts

For Hikers

Camp Hamburgs to Broil

Whole Tomatoes Potatoes to Bake

Olives Carrot Sticks

Cup Cakes Cans of Fruit Juices

Bridge Supper

Jellied Meat Loaf

Vegetable Platter with Sour Cream Dressing

Toast Melba Clover Leaf Rolls Saltines

Matron Mousse Coffee

Crystallized Fruit Salted Nuts

Men's Card Party

Platter Cold Meats and Strong Cheese

Potato Salad Spaghetti Casserole

Rye Rolls Poppyseed Rolls Salt Rolls

Olives Dill Pickles Gherkins Radishes

Rum Cake ^j. g^^j. ^i^hout Dessert

Coffee

Cocktail Party

Assorted Cocktails and Dry Wines

Salted Almonds Olives Potato Chips

Assorted Canapes

THE SCHOOL LUNCH

AS much care is needed in selecting and preparing the food
for the child's lunch at school as for the other meals
served to the child. If the lunch is inadequate or lacking in
food essentials throughout the school year, the child's whole
nutrition will be seriously affected, and his work at school will
suffer. The school lunch is one of three meals, not just a
"snack," and should possess the following characteristics:

1. It should be abundant in amount for a hungry, healthy
child. A little too much is better than too little.

2. It should be chosen with regard to the nutritive needs of
the child and in relation to the whole day's food.

3. It should be clean, appetizing, wholesome and attractive.

FOOD SELECTION CHART FOR CHILDREN

Select from the following chart and make the school lunch
bear its full share of responsibility for carrying the foods the
child needs.

Milk — ^ to 1 quart daily.

Vegetables — ^Two servings daily (in addition to potatoes).
Fruit — Two servings daily (fresh, canned or dried), one of fresh

fruit or fresh or canned tomatoes if possible.
Cereals — ^Whole cereal bread, usually. Whole cereal breakfast food,

usually.
Water — 1 Yz quarts liquid daily (may be included in other foods) .

How to Use the Selected Foods

Foods selected from the above groups may be included in
the school lunch in the following forms:

Sandwiches — ^Made as often as possible from whole cereal
breads^ as graham^ whole wheat, oatmeal. Made to include
some substantial food which will increase the value of the meal.
Supplied in sufficient number to satisfy hunger. Made care-
fully and well.

Succulent Foods — ^Whole orange, whole tomato, whole
apples, apple sauce^ peaches (whole or sliced) 2 celery, stewed

THE SCHOOL LUNCH 6i

fruit, prunes, baked apple, sliced fruit, dates, berries. Fruits
and vegetables are especially important in the dietary of the
growing child and pains must be taken always to include ade-
quate amounts of them. They are not always easy to include
in the school lunch, yet if the child is to be well nourished,
some way must be devised to get them in.

Milk Always — ^This should never be omitted. It may be
carried in a special container provided for the purpose or it
may be included in the hot dish.

One Hot Dish if Possible — The value of hot food in the
lunch is now so generally recognized that many country and
town schools have made provision for serving at least one hot
dish at the noon hour. If not available at school, hot food may
be carried in the lunch box. A vacuum container will solve
the problem satisfactorily.

MENU SUGGESTIONS

(Milk appears in some form in each lunch.)

1. 4.

Cream of Spinach Soup (in Boston Brown Bread Sandwiches

vacuum container) with Cottage Cheese Filling

Raisin and Nut Bread and Butter a i c ^ amer;

Sandwiches ^ . Apple Sauce

Apple Sauce Graham or Oatmeal Crackers

2. 5.

Cream of Tomato Soup (in Cream of Potato Soup with Pars-
vacuum container) ley (in vacuum container)
Ground Meat Sandwiches Peanut Butter Sandwiches
Sliced Fruit Milk Chocolate Stewed Prunes Plain Cake

Cream Cheese Sandwiches Celery i i j t-

Tomatoes and Rice (in vacuum Scrambled Egg Sandwiches

container) Lettuce Sandwiches

Custard with Jelly and Graham Milk (in container. See next page)
Crackers Orange Molasses Cookie

Preparation of Food

Sandwiches — Since sandwiches form a main part of the
school lunch, their preparation is most important.

Wholesome breads should be used for sandwiches. Graham,
whole wheat, oatmeal, brown, raisin, and nut bread are ex-
cellent. Cold bran or whole wheat muffins or filled rolls are
often tempting.

Fillings for the sandwiches for the school lunch require some
special preparation. The filling should be abundant in amount
and should play an important part in the sandwich.

Cheese, meat, eggs, nuts, dried fruits or vegetables should be
put through the food-chopper. Cream cheese, peanut butter
and other compact substances should be thinned with cream.
Ground meats, eggs, and vegetables should be moistened with
a small amount of salad dressing or cream and vinegar. Suc-
culent vegetables should be provided, if possible. Finely
chopped celery, lettuce, water cress or sliced tomato may be
used alone or with cottage cheese. Finely cut pineapple or
orange may be used in sandwiches.

Jellies, jams and conserves make sweet sandwiches or a tiny
jar of the fruited sweet may be tucked into the lunch box.

Dried figs, dates, raisins, thoroughly washed and steamed in 2
small sieve or strainer over boiling water for thirty minutes and
then ground and moistened with a small amount of fruit- juice
or salad dressing, make excellent sandwiches.

Pickles, chow-chow and relishes should take a subordinate
place in the school lunch box.

The chapter on Sandwiches (See Index) , gives full directions
and recipes for a variety of sandwiches.

Hot Dishes — Special vacuum containers make it possible to
send hot cocoa or hot soup with the lunch, also a creamed
vegetable, a hot pudding or other hot food. These containers
should never be filled the night before the lunch is prepared.
If foods prepared for dinner are to be used for the school
lunch, these foods should be kept in a cool place, uncovered,
over night and reheated in the morning.

Milk — ^If there is any possibility that the milk will not keep
sweet for three hours, it may be put while cold into the vacuum
container. Good milk properly kept should be in good con-
dition if carried in a milk bottle or small glass fruit- jar.

THE SCHOOL LUNCH 63

Liquid and Semi-Solid Foods — Stewed prunes and canned
fruits niay be carried in any small screw-top container. A cold
rice pudding or other pudding, custards or similar desserts may
also be carried in this manner.

Packing the Lunch

All foods not in containers should be wrapped separately in
waxed paper before being placed in the box. The neatly
wrapped articles should be placed, so far as is possible, in the
order in which the food will be eaten, so that those found first
may be eaten first without disturbing the remainder. The
heaviest foods, however, should be placed at the bottom.

Articles should be packed compactly in order to prevent the
food from shaking about. Empty space may be filled neatly
with paper. When space seems lacking, the difficulty may be
overcome by more careful packing, by resorting to such ex-
pedients as cutting fruits or cookies in half^ or by packing sand-
wiches the other way of the box.

The Lunch Box

Select a box that can be kept clean. Lunch boxes should
be washed, scalded and aired daily. Those made of light-
weight metal are best. Many attractive boxes are now made
with a vacuum bottle which fits the box. These are highly
desirable. A lunch box should not be air-tight, as a circulation
of air prevents the mingling of odors. All food should be pro-
tected from dirt by wrapping.

Accessories — ^A small vacuum container of cup-like shape
for hot foods, a screw-top container for liquid or semi-solid
food, plenty of waxed paper, and paper napkins are essential
lunch box accessories.

"Without the Hot Dish — In many places the school, the
Parent-Teacher Association or some woman's club provides milk
and/or prepares one hot dish at school to be sold to children
for a few cents. In this case the lunch box need contain only
the sandwiches, vegetables and fruit. The greatest care should
be exercised that vitamins and minerals are not sacrificed to
bulk. Carrot sticks, parsley, whole tomatoes, radishes, cabbage
leaves, oranges or grapefruit will take care of this.

TABLE SETTING AND
SERVICE

THE social life of a household, whether the household is a
simple one or an elaborate one, centers about its dining-
table and whether that dining-table is simply or elaborately-
dressed, it should, by its harmony and unity of setting, indicate
that it is arranged according to a definite artistic standard.
Every accessory that builds the table-picture — the silver, china,
glass, and linen — furthers the art of gracious living in the house-
hold.

CHINA

Perhaps in greater degree than any other domestic appoint-
ments, does china present an opportunity for indulgence of per-
sonal whim and the exercise of good taste on the part of the hos-
tess. Today there are patterns for every occasion. Breakfast
china is gay, sprightly; color runs rampant upon it; often whole
gardens shine on its face. But it would not be used for a
dinner, which demands fine china of exquisitely fine design.
Luncheon is still another thing. Its china may vary as the
season — or as the whim of the hostess.

Modern day impatience with formula and rite is nowhere
more eloquently expressed than in the growing custom of using
different patterns for different courses, all related by the thread
of harmony. The hostess of today considers sameness identical
with boredom. If she uses a cobalt and gold service plate, she
may elect to use a simple gold-banded entree plate. The fish
plate perhaps may have yellow bands to match the flowers in
the center. The roast plate may present a pattern border,
touched with gold, and yellow, and blue. Her dessert plate will
be utterly different from any of the foregoing: it may strike
an entirely new note; but it will not be discordant or jarring.
Obviously, all dishes used in one course should match.

Plates of Various Sizes and How They Are Used

In the following list the measurements, in inches, are from
extreme rim to rim.

TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE 65

Place Plate (also called cover plate, service plate, lay plate) .
10 to 11 inches.

Dinner Plate (roast plate). 10 inches, but seen as large
as 1 0 J4 inches. The size of the dinner plate is fairly large, due
to the current practice of placing attendant vegetables on the
plate with the meat. The day of side dishes, each bearing a
particular variety of vegetables, has definitely passed.

Entree Plate. SYz to 9 Yz inches. A most convenient size,
for, in addition to its use in serving entrees, it is often employed
as a salad plate, or a fish plate: even a dessert plate when the
finger bowl is borne in with the dessert silver on the plate, the
finger bowl being removed later.

Dessert Plate. Zj/z to 8 inches. Used for miscellaneous
desserts, and salads. It becomes the cake plate at tea.

Bread and Butter Plate. 6 to 6^ inches. Universally
used now: the butter chip, for individual butter service is
extinct.

Soup Plate. 8 to 8 ^ inches at rim, for the usual type o£
soup plate with wide, flat rim. There is also a bowl soup plate^
or "coup*' soup, which has no rim at all. Soup plates are not
as commonly used as at one time, due to the spreading favor
accorded the cream soup cup and the bouillon cup for luncheons
and informal meals.

Cups and Bowls

Cream Soup Cup. This is a low, broad cup, handled on
both sides. Its width is from 4Y2 to 5 inches, and its depth
about two. It is tised for the serving of purees, bisques, cream
soups, and is extremely popular for luncheons.

Bouillon Cup. A tea cup with two handles. Clear soups,
consommes, bouillons are served in it.

Chilled Cocktail Bowl. This is distinctly an innovation
in china service. It is a low, wide bowl, fitted with a separate
small container. The space between the bowl proper and the
inner cup is filled with crushed ice. Used for grapefruit,
shrimp cocktail, and many other foods best served chilled.

GLASS

Of late years, an awakening appreciation of the charm of
glass has taken place. Perhaps the appeal of glorious color.

so striking in this substance, accounts for it. Blue in varying
tones was some years ago in wide favor; then amethyst dis-
placed it. Rapidly came amber, and green, which maintain a
deserved respect, because of their adaptability. Rose, canary,
sapphire, in quick succession — no color today is unrepresented.

Glass is often selected to "go with" certain tones of china.
The hostess with a sense of fitness has a glass service for each
of her dinner services. For her severely formal tables she uses
glittering crystal, etched or cut, engraved or gold decorated.

But there is ample opportunity for her to indulge her love
for color to the full, to arrange tables with an eye to the dining-
room effects^ or to build them according to her own color
preferences.

Kinds of Glasses

Goblet. The goblet is the aristocrat of table glass. In its
usual form it is a flaring round bowl resting on a tall slender
stem. In certain styles, however, the "stem" becomes a mere
button. Goblets are always provided with a foot, however
small. The goblet is the dominant member of the "place glass"
group, and all glasses of a service take their shape from it, fol-
lowing its contours very closely.

Other Place Glass. In addition to the goblet, there may
be placed at each cover at least one other glass for the cup or
other beverages. At very formal dinners two extra glasses are
often placed, but never more.

The shapes and sizes of these supplementary glasses vary as
their purposes. On the continent, for example, there is a
definite type of glass placed for certain wines. Thus a glass for
sherry is differently shaped from one for claret: it is more
sharply tapered and considerably smaller.

For the most part the glasses of this type that we see in
America are either the claret, or the tall shallow champagne
glass. The claret, whose capacity makes it a fine utility glass,
is used for almost any kind of cup. On the other hand the tall
champagne glass is often placed for its high decorative value.
Few glasses are as graceful as this shallow bowl on its slender
shaft.

Sherbet. The sherbet glass is a medium depth broad bowl
on a short stem. In it are served sherbets, ice-cream, frozen
(desserts. Much used now, however, for this purpose is the tall

TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE ^J

shallow champagne glass, perhaps because of its more imposing
height and dignity.

Hollow Stem Champagne. This glass is similar to the tall
champagne glass, except that the stem instead of being solid
is hollow to the very bottom. While its primary use was for
serving champagne, today we often serve in it ginger ale, and
other carbonated drinks. The hollow stem releasing a train of
sparkling bubbles is picturesque indeed.

Finger Bowl. The finger bowl is a low broad bowl^ vari-
ously shaped. It is usually seen without a "foot," but certain
styles have such supports. Finger bowls are fitted with match-
ing under-plates, but their use is optional.

Grapefruit Bowl. This is a double bowl for chilled food
cocktails. It consists of a large bowl on a stem. Within it is
placed a smaller "cup" or "lining." The grapefruit or other
cocktail is put in the small cup, and the space between the cups
is filled with crushed ice.

Tumbler. In its simplest form, a tumbler is simply a glass
cylinder with one end closed. But the glass designer does
wonders with it. He mounts it on a foot: he shapes its sides in
lovely contours: often he makes it angular instead of round.

The sizes commonly used are:

Apollinaris Tumbler, This is a small, narrow tumbler used
for liquids that are served in small quantities, such as orange
juice, grape juice, mineral water. It is often used for water
when space is at a premium, as on breakfast trays, or at bridge
tables. It holds about £.Ye ounces.

Table Tumbler, Also called water tumbler. It is a low
tumbler, containing about ten ounces, and is used to serve water
informally, at simple meals.

There is also a water tumbler of about the same capacity, but
narrower and taller, sometimes called the "Ale tumbler."

Highball Tumbler, A tall tumbler, used to serve "long
drinks," or iced tea, iced coffee, iced chocolate, and so forth. It
holds about 12 ounces.

Iced Tea Tutnbler, A normal iced tea tumbler, sufficiently
large to contain plenty of ice. Its capacity runs from 14 to 16
ounces.

Besides the Pieces in General Use Described AbovEj;
there are all manner of articles blown for special uses: trays for
hors d'oeuvres; salad bowls, salt dips, saucers for berries, and
plates of various sizes.

SILVER

The silver on your table is a declaration of your taste.
Whether it is sterling or plate, there is, in an excellent pattern
and in the perfect form and proportion of the utensils, an
unmistakable aristocracy that gives distinction.

Modern methods of manufacturing silver plate have made
it not only durable but beautiful as well. Plated silver ranges
from the very durable triple-plated ware, (heavy weight) which
lasts a lifetime, through the double plate (medium weight)
which has good wearing qualities, to the single plate which is
light weight.

When you choose a pattern of silver, examine all the pieces^
to be sure that you approve of the shapes of all the pieces,
that the pieces are perfectly balanced, that the handles are
comfortable to hold, and that the tips of the handles of the
knives and forks fit perfectly into the center of the palm
of the hand. Find out how long the pattern has been on the
market, and, if possible, how long it is to be made, so that you
will not suddenly discover that the pattern has been "discon-
tinued."

Place silver, or flat silver as it is sometimes called, consists of
the knives, forks, and spoons necessary for general use at table.

Knives and Forks

The dinner knife and fork, although imposing members of
the silver-family, are not the most important members, for
their use is limited to the main course of dinner.

The luncheon knife and fork offer the greatest variety of
uses. They may be used "around the clock," for breakfast, for
luncheon, for supper, and for certain courses at dinner, such as
hors d'oeuvres, entree, fish, salad, for dishes served in a rame-
kin, for dishes served at informal entertaining, and for large
and small sandwiches.

Smaller than the luncheon knife and fork are the tea knife
and fork, with their increasingly-recognized number of uses.

Butter spreaders are necessary in your first list.

Later if you are not content to use the medium size knives
and forks or the tea knives and forks for special courses like
fishj entree, salad, and fruit, you may buy fish knives and forksj

TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE

entree knives and forks, and salad knives and forks (or, if you
prefer, individual salad forks,) and fruit knives, or preferably,
fruit knives and forks.

Spoons

Accompanying the medium size knife and forkj and of a
size between a teaspoon and a tablespoon, is the dessert spoon,
the spoon of a variety of uses, from eating soup and cereals,
to eating desserts such as pudding and compote of fruit.

Teaspoons have a great variety of uses, and while these are
the first kind of small spoon to be bought you will want
to add when you can, orange spoons, bouillon spoons, ice-cream
spoons, coflfee spoons, £vq o'clock teaspoons, and iced tea spoons.

A List of Useful Serving Pieces

2 or 3 Tablespoons

2 or 3 Dinner Forks (for serving)

Medium size Carving Set (or

steak set) 2 pieces (or large

size carving set)
Butter Knife or Butter Pick
Gravy Ladle
Sugar Tongs

Pie or Tart Server, long and flat
Cold Meat Fork
Olive Spoon (pierced) or Olive

Fork
Berry Spoon. A very convenient

serving-spoon which can be

used in serving berries, large

vegetables, casserole dishes,

and puddings
Jelly Server, for jelly, marmalade,

honey, etc.
Preserve Spoon
Long Handled Fork and Spoon,

for serving salad from a cen-
tral bowl
Pickle Fork, usually two-tined

Pierced server, usually called a
tomato-server, useful in serv-
ing sliced tomatoes, fritters,
poached eggs, sliced pineapple,
etc.

Salad Dressing Ladle, smaller
than gravy ladle. Can also be
used for serving whipped
cream

Lemon Fork

Asparagus Server

Entree Server, wide and flat

Cake fork

Sardine Server

Ice Tongs

Ice Spoon

Sugar Spoon

Sugar Sifter for powdered sugar

Ice-cream Knife or Ice-cream
Server

Cheese Server

Melon Knife

Grape Scissors

LINEN

White linen damask is the classic covering for the dinner-
table. Linen and lace are often combined and sometimes

elaborate all-lace table-cloths are used. When a lace cloth is
used, it is placed on a bare table.

In the colored damasks every woman will find an opportunity
to vary her table setting effects occasionally with a harmonious
combination of pastel shades in table-cloth and glass and china
and flower-centerpiece. But the conservative woman still vises
white damask for her formal dinners, and undoubtedly will
continue to do so.

Table-cloths

Before you buy your table-cloths, carefully measure your
table, and allow a twelve- to fifteen-inch hangover for your
dinner cloths, and an eight- to twelve-inch hangover for your
luncheon cloths.

Table-cloths should be French-hemmed, with the hem three-
eighths of an inch to one-half an inch wide, and napkins, also
French-hemmed, have hems of from one-eighth of an inch to
one-quarter of an inch wide.

A white linen damask cloth is as appropriate to the formal
or informal luncheon as to the formal or informal dinner. Gay
colored sets of damask or of less formal materials are often
used. Linen runners, with small luncheon napkins to match^
are popular, especially on long tables like refectory tables. An
especially beautiful table is sometimes left bare except for the
lace rounds under the centerpiece, plates^ and glasses. Damask
napkins are used with these.

Luncheon sets are appropriate for use at breakfast, luncheong
an informal dinner on the porch, or an informal supper.

For the tea table one may use an embroidered or hemstitched
teacloth, or a simple or elaborate lace cover^ or a combination
of linen and lace.

Napkins

Table-cloths and napkins should match. For formal dinners
an unusually large napkin is smart, but nowadays napkins, like
most other "furnishings," have shrunk, and one rarely en-
counters dinner napkins larger than twenty-eight inches and
usually not larger than twenty- four inches.

Luncheon napkins are from thirteen inches to eighteen inches
square. White hemstitched luncheon napkins are often used
with a white linen damask cloth.

TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE 7%

Breakfast napkins, often colored or with a colored border to
match the cloth, are usually a bit smaller than luncheon napkins
but may be the same size.

Appropriate to the appointments of the tea table are the
small tea napkins, sometimes of fine handkerchief linen with
scalloped edges, sometimes of damask with hemstitched borders,
and sometimes of heavy linen with drawnwork borders. In
houses with Early American furnishings — and with excellent
laundry technic — the old-fashioned damask napkins with
fringe edges add a charmingly quaint touch. But with uncer-
tain laundering these are very apt to be unattractive looking.

Monogramming

The pattern or design of the cloth and napkins and the type,
design, and size of the monograms embroidered on them should
make a perfect unity.

For table-cloths, the size of the monogram should be from
two and one-half to five inches. For dinner napkins from one
to two inches. For luncheon and breakfast napkins and doilies,
from three-quarters of an inch to an inch and a half.

When the bride-to-be is marking her trousseau linens, it is
best form for her to use the initials of her maiden name. How-
ever, there is no hard and fast rule for this marking, and she
may if she prefers use the initials of the first and last names of
her maiden name and the initial letter of the groom's last name.

If an initial is used instead of a monogram it should be the
initial of your last name. When only one letter is used, it is
usually a block letter — sometimes ornate — ^since a single letter
in script is not very effective-looking.

How to Measure for the Placing of the Monogram

Spread the cloth on the table, place the end of your measur-
ing stick at the corner of the table, and point it in the direction
of the corner diagonally opposite. Measure from twelve to
fifteen inches, mark this oflf, and place your monogram there
unless it will, in this place, interfere with the design in the
damask. In that event, raise it or lower it to make it artistically
well-placed.

On a table-cloth of two yards square or less usually only

one monogram is placed. Larger sizes usually have two mono-
grams diagonally opposite each other.

Dinner napkins should be marked with a smaller monogram
of the same design as that used on the table-cloth. They are
now usually embroidered in what is known as the "center of
the side." Fold the napkin into thirds, and again into thirds
in the opposite way. On the top of the center square with the
selvedge toward you, place the monogram in the approximate
center.

Tea napkins may be monogrammed with the two or three
initials used on the other napkins. In very fine linen ones, cut-
out monograms are often used.

TABLE DECORATION

Have in mind a definite plan.

Consider carefully the artistic height for your table decora-
tions: table decorations that are too high are awkward, and
those that are too low become monotonous to the eye.

No table decorations should obstruct the view of the guests
(although at large, formal dinners, when the conversation can-
not be general anyway, they may be tall).

All tall decorations should be narrow (e. g. candles).

Avoid over-decoration and inappropriate decorations. Don't
crowd your table or make it look heavy.

Discriminate between a formal party and an informal party,
and adapt your decorations accordingly.

Keep in mind the color-scheme of your room, and the colors
of the food in your menu, and harmonize the color of your
table decorations with these.

Adapt your flowers to the type and proportions of your
flower-container.

Centerpieces

Centerpieces are of infinite variety, their beauty and dis-
tinction being limited only by one's imagination and one's
budget. Flowers are still — and probably always will be — the
most lovely decoration for the center of the table. The fashion
of supporting a few flowers in flower-holders in low silver or
glass bowls makes possible simple and very effective arrange-
ments. Unusual effects may be obtained with central mirrors

TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE 73

and with mirrored tables, with fruits, with formal combinations
of flowers and fruits, with crystal trees and flowers, with deli-
cate figurines, and even with amusing accessories of simple or
elaborate kinds. But one must be careful that the designs
built with unusual accessories are beautiful and appropriate
and not simply bizarre.

Compote Dishes and Candles

To balance the centerpiece, decorative silver or glass — or
gold! — compote dishes, two or four in number, are usually
placed toward the ends of the table. These dishes, containing
bonbons or mints or nuts, may be low, medium, or high, accord-
ing to the proportion required by the other table decorations.

Four candles, or more if the table is very large, are used in
candlesticks of glass or silver or fine china, and sometimes of
pottery for an informal dinner on an Italian or Spanish table.
Instead of candlesticks handsome silver candelabra may be
placed on each side of the centerpiece.

The candles should be lighted before the guests enter the
dining-room, and allowed to burn until they leave the dining-
room, even if they stay so long in the dining-room that the
candles burn down to their sockets!

The height of the candles should, of course, be adapted to
the height of the candlesticks — very tall candles in low stand-
ards, and shorter ones in the standard of average height. Low
candlesticks with tall slender tapers are interesting and effec-
tive, but their use is more appropriate to informal occasions.
Formal functions seem to need the dignity of tall candlesticks.

Candles for formal dinner tables usually are the color of
natural wax or, if that is not obtainable, of white. As a matter
of fact, many hostesses use candles of this color on their tables
for all their parties. Of course colored candles may be used
to carry out a decorative scheme, and are festive and appro-
priate for special occasions.

Candles are now never shaded.

Service or ^^Cover" Plate

A service plate (sometimes called a "place plate" or "lay
plate," and, most appropriately, a "cover plate"), which is

about one inch larger than a dinner plate, is used in formal
service. A service plate is a background plate on which other
plates are placed. Since its function is largely decorative, it
should be as handsome as your circumstances permit. Service
plates are usually of beautiful china, though sometimes they
are of gold or silver or silver plate or even glass. If they are
of china, they do not match the rest of the china in design^
since they are usually far more ornate. In advance of the
meal, the service plate is set in the center of each cover, one
inch, or sometimes two inches, from the edge of the table. No
food is served directly on the service plate. On it are placed
the plates containing the first courses of the meal, such as fruity
oysters, and soup. It is not removed until it is exchanged for
the plate of the first hot course after the soup.

Large service plates are not used for breakfast, and it is
usually inconvenient to use them in homes where there is no
service, or in homes where the food is served at the table by the
hostess or host or both.

Place Cards

Place cards are used at formal dinners and luncheons for con-
venience in seating the guests. A place card should be simple
(plain white ones are best) of about the size of a visiting-card.
It is sometimes engraved with the hostess' monogram or crest
embossed in plain white. Sometimes at feature parties, such as
Hallowe'en or Valentine's Day, decorative place cards are used to
carry out the motif of the entertainment. The name of the
guest is written on the card, the title — Mrs., Miss, or Mr. — be-
fore the name. Place cards are usually placed above the cover
so that they do not conceal the beauty of either the place plate
or the napkin.

Salts and Peppers

Salts and peppers may be tall, gold or silver ones, or they
may be low silver or crystal ones, or a silver pepper shaker ac-
companied by a low salt cup lined with old blue glass. For
breakfast use, they may be of china or pottery, consistent with
the informality of the breakfast table or tray.

It is customary to place a set of salts and peppers between
every two covers if the party is large, or a pair at each corner
of the table, if few are dining, or at two corners of a small

TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE 75

table. Individual sets are sometimes placed. Whether salt
shakers or salt cups are used is a matter of choice, but with
salt cups small salt-spoons should be provided.

Bread and Butter Plates

These convenient little plates are used at breakfast and
luncheon, and at family and other informal dinners. Since
butter is not served at formal dinners, bread and butter platesj
are not usually placed. However, there is now a tendency to
place bread and butter plates on the table, except at the most
formal dinners, many hostesses maintaining, and quite rightly,
too, that these plates are of great convenience, in affording a
harbor for the roll or bread and for the celery, radishes, and
nuts that are passed at dinner.

Bread and butter plates are removed after the salad course,
with the salts and peppers.

The Napkin

The napkin is usually placed at the left of the forks and
parallel with them. If the napkin is folded in a square or other-
wise folded so that the corners are up, it is placed so that the
open corners are toward the plate.

Often one sees the napkin placed on the service plate, but
unless space demands this, it is not to be recommended. Service
plates are usually of such loveliness that none of their beauty
should be sacrificed.

It is no longer good form to put bread or a dinner roll in the
napkin — too many embarrassing moments resulted from that
custom, for it was most natural, when one was engrossed in
conversation, to take up the napkin unthinkingly and discover
the roll perversely flying for the regions under the table.

Finger Bowls

There are three methods of placing finger bowls:
First, if the finger bowl is needed after fruits at the begin-
ning of a meal, or after corn on the cob, artichokes, and other
food that demands the use of the fingers, it may be placed to
the left of the cover when the table is laid or it may be brought

in toward the end of the course and placed to the left of the
cover.

Second, if the dessert plate and finger bowl are served to-
gether, the finger bowl is placed on the dessert plate, usually
with a small fine white or cream doily between it and the plate,
and the dessert silver placed on the sides of the plate, the fork on
the left and the knife or spoon (depending on what the dessert
may be) on the right. The guest removes the silver, placing
the spoon or knife to the right, and the fork to the left, of the
cover. Then he removes the finger bowl and doily and places
them on the left of the cover, leaving the plate ready to receive
the fruit or dessert.

Third, if the dessert is served in individual portions, say
in a sherbet glass or some other container, which precludes the
placing of the finger bowl on the dessert plate, the finger bowl,
on a doily on a plate, is placed in front of the guest after the
last course.

If especially beautiful glass or silver finger bowls and plates
are used, many hostesses now omit the doily between, maintain-
ing that it destroys the harmony between the bowl and the
plate.

The bowls, half-filled with tepid water, may be placed on
the side table before the meal is announced.

SETTING THE TABLE

Precision and decision are demanded in table-setting: mathe-
matical precision in laying the table-covering and in placing
the silver and other table-appointments, and artistic decision in
the choice and harmonious arrangement of the table-appoint-
ments.

Spreading the Cloth

"Wlien the table-covering is the conventional table-cloth, first
place the silence-cloth, of white, thick, doublefaced material,
which usually extends five inches over each side of the table.
This is sometimes tied in place to prevent slipping.

Over this, spread the table cloth, perfectly laundered. There
should be in the table cloth only one crease, the straight central
crease, and the cloth should be most carefully adjusted so that
this fold is placed exactly in the center of the table. The op-

THE BUFFET DINNER IS AN OPPORTUNITY
TO USE YOUR CHERISHED SILVER PIECES

—Sterling Silversmiths Guild of America

I he 5et(/lce not dlnnet

APPETIZER— FIRST COURSE
THE NAPKIN IS ON THE PLATE
OR LEFT OF THE FORKS. IF THE
COCKTAIL IS FRUIT OR MELON.
REPLACE OYSTER FORK WITH A
SMALL SPOON. ALL CLASSES
REMAIN THROUGHOUT DINNER

SOUP— SECOND COURSE
THE SOUP PLATE IS SET ON THE
SERVICE PLATE AFTER THE AP-
PETIZER AND ITS SILVER ARE
REMOVED. THE SERVICE PLATE
IS REMOVED WITH THE SOUP
PLATE AND ITS SILVER

FISH OR ENTREE— THIRD
COURSE

THE SERVICE PLATE IS RE-
PLACED BY AN ENTREE PLATE-
WARMED IN WINTER. USE
THE OUTER KNIFE AND FORK

ROAST— FOURTH COURSE
THE LARGE DINNER PLATE FOL-
LOWS THE ENTREE SERVICE
AND IS REMOVED WITH ITS
SILVER

SALAD— FIFTH COURSE
BOTH SALAD PLATE AND SIL-
VER ARE SMALLER THAN FOR
THE MEAT COURSE AND THE
PLATE SHOULD BE COLD

DESSERT— SIXTH COURSE
EACH PLACE SHOULD BE COM-
PLETELY CLEARED EXCEPT FOR
THE CLASSES— AND THE TABLE
CRUMBED— BEFORE THE DES-
SERT PLATE AND SILVER ARE
PLACED

COFFEE— SEVENTH COURSE
WHEN COFFEE IS SERVED AWAY
FROM THE TABLE, THE FINGER
BOWL WITH ITS DOILY MAY
COME IN ON THE DESSERT
PLATE — DOILY AND BOWL
SLIPPED OFF BY THE GUEST AS
DESSERT IS SERVED. WHEN
SERVED AT THE TABLE. THE
COFFEE CUP AND SAUCER ARE
PLACED AFTER THE DESSERT IS
SERVED
—Reed & Barton

ADDED TO GOOD TASTE. BEAU-
TY IS ACHIEVED BY THE MOST
CAREFUL ORDER AND ACCU<
RACY

TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE yy

posite edges of the cloth should fall at equal distances from
the floor. The cloth should fall from twelve to fifteen inches
below the edges of the table.

Placing the Decorations

Now having placed the background for your table-picture,
focus your composition by placing the table decorations, the
centerpiece, candlesticks or candelabra, and compotes.

For a table of six covers, four candles or two candelabra are
sufficient. The candlesticks are usually placed about halfway
between the center of the table and its edge, but their position
depends on the general form and design of the decorations.
The candles are unshaded.

Compotes, filled with bonbons or mints or nuts, are usually
placed between the candlesticks and the edge of the table —
their position too, depending on the general structural scheme.

Setting the Covers

Now you are ready to set the covers.

A "cover" is the place set for one person at the beginning of
a meal. It consists of a service plate (called sometimes a "place
plate," and most appropriately called, a cover plate) , silver
utensils, napkin, and water glass.

In setting a cover allow, if possible, the standard space of
twenty- four inches, this space being measured from the center
of one plate to the center of the next one. Allow fifteen inches
for depth.

Place the cover plate in the exact center of the place, and
so that the pattern is up, in other words so that the pattern-
design is given its full beauty-value.

All the lines of the cover should go either across the table
or lengthwise of it. Avoid diagonal lines because they attract
the attention of the eye and take away from the harmony of
the design.

Place the knives in a straight line, on the right of the plate,
parallel to each other, and the spoons on their right. On the left
place the forks, also in a careful straight line, and lay the napkin
at the left of the forks with its edges parallel to the forks and
knives and spoons. When the cover includes a bread and butter
plate, lay the butter spreader on the edge of the plate so that

It is parallel to the edge of the table with the handle toward the
right. Salt and pepper sets should' follow this rule of placing,
as should the handles of dishes that are placed on the table, and
if a piece of silver is placed on a dish at the table (for instance,
the spoon on the plate under the fruit cocktail) it too should
be placed parallel to the pieces of silver at the sides of the
plate.

There are several other important rules for setting a cover^
and the basic idea of these rules applies to informal meals as
much as it does to formal meals.

Knives, since they are used in the right hand, are placed at
the right of the plate, with the cutting edge toward the plate-

Spoons, with the bowls up, are placed at the right of the
knives.

Forks are placed at the left of the plate, with the tines up.
This is because the fork is held in the left hand when the knife
is in the right hand. If an oyster fork is necessary, it is placed
on the right of the knives and spoons — and parallel to them —
or on the plate on which the oysters are served.

The Silver should be placed in the correct sequence — so
that the person eating may use first the utensils farthest from
the plate and "work toward the plate." Not more than three
knives and three forks (not counting the butter knife or oyster
fork) are laid at one cover. If necessary, additional pieces are
laid just before the course is served. Usually the silver is laid
for the courses through the salad course, and the dessert silver
is either placed at the cover before the dessert is served, or
brought in on the dessert plate. For every item of food in the
menu the necessary piece of silver should either be placed at
the cover or brought in before the service of the course.

The Napkin is placed on the left of the forks. If it is folded
in a square, the open corner is the lower corner, nearest the
plate.

The "Water Glass is placed above the tip of the dinner
knife. If there is a glass for another beverage, it is placed
to the right of the water glass or in a line slanting down from
the goblet to the right. If there are more than two glasses, they
are grouped artistically.

The Bread and Butter Plate is placed above the tips of
the forks so that it will be on a line with the water glass. The
butter spreader is placed on the bread and butter plate parallel

TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE 79

to the edge of the table, the handle toward the right and the
cutting edge down.

The Place Card is best placed above the plate.

The Edge of the Service Plate, the tips of the handles
of the silver utensils, and the lower edge of the napkin shovild
be placed in exact alignment, usually one inch from the edge
of the table. Some hostesses prefer that the silver be placed
two inches from the edge of the table, so that there is a mini-
mum of danger of its being brushed off the table.

Salts and Peppers are usually placed between every two
covers, or individual sets may be placed, or, if there are only a
few covers, sets may be placed at the ends of the table.

Salted Nuts may be placed in small individual dishes above
the covers, or in silver or glass compotes.

Covers should be placed directly opposite each other.

The Chairs are placed so that the line of the table-cloth
is not broken.

TABLE SERVICE

Styles of Service

There are three styles of service:

Russian: In this style of service all the food is served from
the kitchen, by attendants. The host and hostess take no part
in the service. No food is put on the table except the decorat-
ing dishes of nuts, candy, and fruits. The food may be placed
in individual portions before the guest, or may be separated
into portions and arranged on serving-dishes for each guest to
help himself.

English or Family Type: In this service all the food is
served at the table by the host, hostess, or both.

Combination or Mixed Service: In this service the main
course is usually served at the table, while the soup, salad, and
dessert are served from the kitchen. Sometimes, the salad is
served from a large salad bowl, and the hostess serves the dessert
at table.

Service Suggestions

Methods — ^There are three methods of table service. Tli«
one often preferred is the left hand service, that is, the placing^
passing, and removing of all dishes at the left. Beverages are,

of course, an exception, and these are placed at the right. In
the left hand service, the waitress uses the hand farthest from
the guest, that is, the left hand. The left hand service permits
the guest to use his right hand in helping himself. In the right
hand service the waitress places and removes all dishes from the
right, using the right hand, but she passes a dish at the left,
using her left hand. Often a combination of these two services
is used: that is, the dishes are placed and passed at the left, and
plates are removed from the right. A hostess decides which
method seems to her the easiest and most practical for her
household, and directs her service accordingly.

Order of Service — In many houses the hostess is served first.
This is a relic of the old custom of taking it for granted that
the giver of the feast prove the absence of poison by first tast-
ing of the food or drinking of the beverage! Some hostesses too
justify this custom by maintaining that, when complicated foods
are served, the hostess indicates to her guests the methods by
which they can most conveniently serve themselves.

However, the custom of serving the honor guest first is grow-
ing, and many hostesses now insist on giving the chief guest
this additional compliment.

The former custom of serving all the ladies first and the
gentlemen afterward is no longer in vogue, for this method
consumed too much time and delayed the service. Now guests
are served in the order in which they are seated, usually begin-
ning with the honor guest or the hostess and proceeding to the
right.

The Ever-Present Plate — ^It is an important rule of good
service that there must be a plate before each guest until the
salad course is removed. As soon as one plate is removed, an-
other is put in its place. The first course — if a pre-soup course
— ^is either served from a large dish, in which case a plate is
placed for it on the cover plate, or is brought in on a plate which
is set on the cover plate already on the table.

When the first course is removed the soup plate is set on the
cover plate. Then, if the next course — an entree, or fish, or
the main course — ^is, as usual, to be served on a heated plate, the
service plate is removed with the soup plate as this heated plate
is put before the guest.

The "Service Napkin" — On the palm of her left hand^
Tinder the dish that she is passing, the waitress holds a napkin

TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE 8l

folded in a square — the so-called "service napkin" or "serving
napkin." She does not use a tray to bring dishes to the table
or to remove them from the table.

Using a Tray — ^When a waitress is passing two or three
small articles such as the cream-pitcher and sugar-bowl, or extra
pieces of silver, she uses a serving-tray, with a doily on it to
keep the articles from slipping.

Filling Glasses — ^Water glasses are filled three-fourths full.
The water pitcher should be three-fourths full. When a glass
is being filled it should not be lifted from the table. If neces-
sary, the waitress uses a napkin to catch the drip. Beverages
are placed and glasses are filled at the right.

Knives and Spoons are placed at the right, and forks are
placed at the left.

Bread, in the form of plain or pulled bread, rolls, or toast^ is
passed after the soup has been served.

If the First Course of an informal dinner or luncheon is a
cold course, it may be on the table when the guests enter the
dining-room. If it is hot, it is served after the guests are seated.

Before Passing a Dish to a Guest the waitress should
see that adequate silver is placed on the dish — usually a serv-
ing-fork on the left and a serving-spoon on the right — ^in a
convenient position. She should, if necessary, rearrange the
silver before offering the dish to the guest.

Food Should be Placed on the Table, passed, and re-
moved in the order of its importance in the course.

If a Salad is Served With the Meat Course, it is placed
on the more convenient side of the plate. If there is no extra
glass on the right side, it is usually more convenient to the guest
to have the salad placed on the right.

Hot Food Should be Served Hot on heated dishes.

Cold Food Should be Served Cold on cold dishes.

When the Host and Hostess do the Serving at Table,
the host serves the meat, and often the vegetables, and the hos-
tess serves the soup, salad, dessert, and beverage.

In the Maid-Less Household, the hostess will find great
convenience in the tea-wagon or any other kind of serving-
table that may stand at her right, ready to help her.

Before the Dessert Course, the table should be cleaied
and crumbed. The salts and peppers, the bread and butter
plates, and all other accessories or dishes that will not be used

in the dessert course, are removed on a tray. When the table
is crumbed a small folded napkin and a plate should be used,
and the crumb-clearing is done at the left of the guest.

When the Dessert is Finished, the dessert plate is ex-
changed for an after-dinner coffee cup, if the coffee is served
at table.

At the End of the Coffee Course, the cups are ex-
changed for finger bowls if these were not placed with the
dessert.

There is Increasing Inclination to serve after-dinner
coflFee in the drawing room, living room or the library. The plan
has many advantages. The original reason was to give guests
more freedom and more luxury — dining-room chairs are stiflF
at best. But in large families, young adults and children are
eager to be excused — the former for their own plans and the
latter have school work to do, besides which they do not or
should not drink coffee. The adults want to continue their dis-
cussions without interruption, while they have coffee, liqueurs
and smokes at their leisure.

Besides, in many American homes, servants come in by the
day or the hour. Serving coffee in the living room, in addition
to the comfort it gives host and guests, allows maids to finish
the cleaning-up process with more speed and care as well as
more freedom. The coffee service can be done last or even left
until morning without catastrophe. In the maidless home, the
dining-room doors can be closed, the lights turned out and both
hostess and guests forget the work that awaits the former, in
the glow of the larger, more comfortable and less formal living
room. Moreover, in many modern homes the dining room has
disappeared and its function taken over by an enlarged living
room, with or without a dining alcove or solarium but almost
always when there is a garden, by the terrace used for meals
out of doors. In homes with this arrangement there should be
an appropriate screen to set around the table used for dining,
when the guests move into the living room proper or onto the
terrace. Often when there is a dining alcove, these screens are
attached to opposing walls as permanent fixtures of the room,
and need only to be swung out to meet around the disheveled
table. For kss formal entertaining see page 724.

CARVING

SKILL in carving depends upon two things: first, a knowl-
edge of the anatomy of that which is to be carved, and
second, good tools with which to work.

EQUIPMENT FOR CARVING

For the Average Family, two carving knives are desirable;
one with a long, keen blade for large roasts, and a smaller,
lighter one for steaks, cutlets and poultry. One two-pronged
fork can be used with both knives.

For a Small Family, where large joints are not served, the
smaller knife will be adequate.

The Carving Knife Should be Sharp when it is brought
to the table. It should never be sharpened at the table.

The Carver Should Remain Seated while carving and
should carve enough for all who are at the table before he
begins to serve anyone.

The Platter Should be Large Enough to give room not
only for the meat that is to be carved but also for the carved
portions.

A Serving Spoon should be provided for the gravy.

TO CARVE BEEF

Beefsteak

First separate the meat from the bone by cutting along the
edge of the bone with the thin point of the knife.

Beginning with the wide or bone end of a porterhouse or
sirloin steak, and following the grain of the meat, divide each
section into portions an inch or slightly more in width, depend-
ing on the number to be served.

In porterhouse and similar steaks, the tenderloin and the
wider section are more tender and have a finer flavor and text-
ure than the narrow section. Give a serving of the finer quality
meat and one of the less choice meat to each person.

The small or flank end of a porterhouse steak is of poor

quality, suited only for stewing or braizing, and should not
be served with the rest of the steak.

Add to each portion a bit of garnish, a spoon of dish gravy,
and if the steak is planked, a serving of vegetables.

Roast Beef

Carve all roasts across the grain of the meat. The thickness
of the slices varies with the kind of roast that is being carved,
and may be influenced by the personal preferences of the people
for whom the carving is being done. Generally the slices
should be thin, but whether thin or thick, they should be even
and attractive looking.

Fillet or Tenderloin Roast — Hold the roast firmly with
the fork and cut the meat squarely across the grain in slices
slightly less than one-half inch in thickness. Begin with the
thick or forward portion. Serve one slice to each person.

Loin, Round or Rump Roast — Cut across the grain, as
with a tenderloin roast, but carve the slices as thin as possible,
because the meat is less tender than the fillet.

Standing Rib Roast — Place the roast cut side up on a platter
with the ribs to the left. Thrust the fork firmly into the side
below the upper bone and cut slices Ys to 54 inch thick toward
the fork, across the grain, until the bone is reached. Cut several
slices and then separate from the bone by cutting down with the
point of the knife along the bone.

Chuck Pot Roast — Place the meat with the rib side toward
the carver. Insert the fork straddling the narrow strip of
cartilage running down the center of the meat and cut off the rib
bone. Cut horizontally across grain into slices ^4 inch thick,
beginning at the right front corner and cutting up through the
slice at the center of the roast. When one side is sliced reverse
and cut other side.

Short Ribs — Place meat so that ribs are at the back. Thrust
fork into meat and cut down between the bones. A bone may
be served with each slice.

Rolled Roast — A rolled roast should be held together for
carving by skewers thrust directly through the roll across the
grain of the meat. Set the roast on end and thrust the fork
firmly into the side an inch or two from the top. Then, hold-

CARVING 85

ing the knife horizontally, cut thin even slices across the entire
roast.

Remove the skewers one at a time as you reach them in
carving, and move the fork downward from time to time as
necessary.

TO CARVE LAMB, MUTTON, VEAL
AND PORK

Leg of Lamb

Let the small bone extend toward your left and have the
curved side of the meat uppermost. Thrust the fork into the
center muscle and cut thin slices downward, across the grain
of the meat, till the knife strikes the bone. To release the
slices, insert the point of the knife beneath them and cut along
the surface of the bone.

If the leg of lamb is boned, cut slices straight through, across
the grain of the meat.

Loin Roast of Lamb, Veal or Pork

The backbone should be cut through at each rib before the
meat is roasted. Let the roast lie on the platter with the bones
down and the smaller end of the roast at your left. Carve
down between the ribs and serve one rib to each person.

Crown of Lamb

Carve down between the ribs and serve one rib to each per-
son.

Saddle of Mutton

Let the roast rest on the platter with the bone down and
the end diagonally toward you. Make a cut through the
center the entire length of the backbone, separating the meat
into two similar parts. Remove the meat from the bone on
each side by running the knife point between the meat and
the bone. Carve the meat into slices slightly less than half
an inch thick, cutting across the grain.

LEG O'LAMB IS CARVED
AGAINST THE GRAIN
— National Live Stock and
Meat Board

i^fefc..^

A LITTLE KNOWLEDGE OF ANATOMY
GOES A LONG WAY TOWARD PER-
FECTION IN THE CARVING OF FOWL
— Institute American Poultry Industries

^■'^^m^

'^F
W^ ,,

'&^'

iJN CARVING SI^
if ROAST OR ANY MEAT,
IPOOD FORM IS THE RE-.
^ULT OF PERFECT BA^
pNCE AND MUCH P
pICE 1

— National Live Stock and
Meat Board J

TO CARVE POULTRY

Roast Turkey or Chicken

Let the bird rest on its back on the platter, with the drum-
sticks pointing toward your left. Grasp the carving-fork
firmly in the left hand, with the tines pointing toward the
bird's neck and the tips turned from the bird. Insert it into
the leg so that one tine goes diagonally through the drumstick
and the other through the second joint.

Cut all around the hip joint. Press against the side of the
bird with the flat of the knife and use the fork as a lever to
bend the leg back. This will separate the hip joint and the leg
can be lifted off without diflficulty.

Without removing the fork, lay the leg down flat, with
the open end pointing-, toward ^he left, and insert the knife
from right to left between the tines of the fork. Press the
knife down and it should go through the joint. At first you
may have to do a little feeling around to locate the joint, but
with practice you will learn how to insert the fork so that when
the knife is placed between the tines it will fall directly over
the joint.

Next thrust the fork into the side of the bird, rather low
down, and cut the breast downward in thin even slices.

Slice the meat from the second joint and serve a slice of
white meat and a slice of dark meat to each guest.

If more portions are needed, turn the bird so that it is
lying with the carved side down. Separate the second leg in
the same way you did the first, and slice the breast.

If the wings are needed they may be cut from the bird and
divided in the same manner as the legs.

Ordinarily the tips of the wings and the drumsticks are
not served with the roasted bird but are reserved for other uses.

Roast Ducks

Follow the same method as for turkeys and chickens, but
keep in mind that a duck's joints are much farther toward the
back than those of turkeys and chickens.

With Wild Duck, only the breast is served. Half a breast
is usually removed in one portion and served to one person.

CARVING 87

Broilers

Arrange the bird on the platter so that the neck is toward
you. Insert the fork in the second joint; cut the flesh around
the hip joint; bend the joint over sharply with the knife and
separate it from the body. Separate the drumstick from the
second joint or leave them together, as you prefer. Split the
breast in two. Serve half the breast and a second joint or
whole leg to each person.

TO CARVE FISH

Special carving sets are procurable for fish. If such a set is
not at hand, the best thing to use is a dinner knife, with silver
plated or stainless steel blade, and a silver fork^ preferably of
the type known as a cold meat fork.

In carving any fish try to serve as little bone as possible and
avoid breaking the flakes of the fish.

Baked or Planked Fish

If the fish has been slashed before baking, cut through these
slashes, to, but not through, the backbone. If there are no
slashes, cut the flesh crosswise at intervals of about two inches.
Slip the knife under each section and lift it from the bone.
When one side of the fish has been served, lift up the back-
bone and divide the lower half.

Middle Cuts or Thick Pieces of Fish

Middle cuts or thick pieces of large fish, such as salmon and
cod, are placed on the platter with the skin up. Carve the fish
in thick slices down to the bone, then slip the knife under the
portions and remove them from the bone.

Split Fish

When fish are split down the back and broiled or sauted,
divide them through the middle, lengthwise, then divide each
half into as many portions as are needed. Very small fish are
served whole.

GARNISHES

/^ARNISHES serve two purposes. First, they make food
^^ more attractive to the eye, thus stimulating the flow of
digestive juices and aiding digestion; second, they add bulk or
"roughage" to the diet or increase the nutritive value of the
dish.

Garnishes Should be Simple, appropriate and easy to pre-
pare. They should not be used to disguise deficiencies or poor
quality of any dish. Edible garnishes are more appropriate
man those that are used merely for appearance. At least one-
third of a dish should be left free of garnish and the garnish
should be so placed that it does not interfere with the service,

With a Few Exceptionsj such as candied or maraschino
cherries, sweet picklesj preserved whole currants, strawberries,
cranberries, etc., sweets are not used to garnish savory dishes.

Toast or Puff Pastes should not^ as a rule^ be used on the
same dish with potatoes.

Garnishes for Soups

One of the simplest garnishes for soup is a tablespoon of
salted whipped cream sprinkled with a dash of paprika or a
little parsley chopped very fine.

Eggs are used as garnishes of soups in the form of a baked
custard cut in fancy shapes, or as egg balls. (See Soup Ac-
cessories.) The whole yolks poached in salted water just bdow
the boiling-point may be used; one yolk is served with each
pkte of soup.

Noodles, tapioca, spaghetti or macaroni cut in fancy shapes^
or quenelles (See Soup Accessories) make simple and attrac-
tive garnishes for soup.

Cooked vegetables cut in thin strips or in Julienne style or
in fancy shapes or slices, are often used to add color^ flavor and
nutritive value to a soup.

Soups may be garnished also with cubes of bread or puff
paste buttered and browned in the oven or fried in deep fat.

GARNISHES 89

Garnishes for Egg Dishes

Eggs are often served with toast in some form. They may
be garnished with crisp slices of bacon and a spray of parsley or
they may be served on a bed of chopped spinach, mashed potato
or chopped meat. A sauce or puree is a very attractive garnish
for poached eggs. Eggs are sometimes garnished with grated
cheese or cooked egg-yolk put through a sieve.

Garnishes for Hot Vegetables

Mashed vegetables are sometimes garnished with bits of but-
ter and a sprinkling of paprika or chopped parsley. Vegetables
that are cooked and served whole are often covered with grated
cheese and put into the oven long enough to brown the cheese.
Slices of hard-cooked eggs or egg-yolk put through a sieve
may be used as a garnish for spinach.

Garnishes for Meat, Fish, Game and Poultry

Garnishes often used with roasts of beef, lamb or mutton are
browned potatoes, croquettes of potatoes or rice, mashed potato
cups filled with green peas or diced vegetables, slices of carrot,
parsnip or turnip sauted or fried in deep fat, or boiled onions
and sprays of parsley or cress.

Roast pork may be garnished with any of the above or with
baked apple or sauted apple rings filled with jelly.

Fried bananas make a suitable garnish for roast of mutton.

Chops and steaks may be served with a simple garnish of
parsley or cress and a slice of lemon or in a border of French
fried potatoes, Saratoga chips or lattice potatoes.

Creamed meat dishes may be served with triangles or rounds
of toast, in borders of rice or mashed potato, in croustades of
bread, in timbale cases or patty shells or in cups of rice or
mashed potato.

Sausage, meat balls or chops are attractive arranged about a
mound of rice, mashed potato, macaroni or spinach.

Roast or fried chicken may be served in a border of celery
or of fried oysters or with a simple garnish of parsley or cress.

Roast duck is attractive with endive and slices of orange and
olives or with rice cups filled with currant jelly; roast goose
with broiled sausage, gooseberry sauce, apple or barberry jelly

or cooked rings of apple; roast quail with squares of fried mush
and cubes of currant jelly.

Fish steaks, broiled fish or baked fish are usually garnished
with slices of lemon and parsley or cress. Slices of hard-cooked
eggs are often used as a garnish for fish. Fat fish such as salmon
may be garnished with slices of cucumber or of tomato or
whole tomatoes stuffed. Fish may also be garnished with po-
tatoes, peas, onions or tomato in any form.

Other garnishes that may be used are celery curls, olives,
radishes, mushroom caps, small green pickles, strips of green
pepper or pimiento.

Garnishes for Aspics and Salads

The best and simplest frame for any salad is a bed of lettuce
leaves or shredded lettuce, cabbage or cress. Many salads are
made more attractive by a sprinkling of chopped nuts or capers,
minced green pepper or red pimiento or a grating of cheese.
A half nut-meat, two or three radishes cut to resemble roses,
dates or prunes stuffed with nuts or cream cheese, olives whole
or sliced, tiny new onions or sliced green pickles all add flavor
and color.

Truffles are wild, edible, subterranean fungi that are raised
principally in France. They are too expensive to be used in
large quantity but are highly prized as a flavorful garnish for
aspics, salads and sauces. Becaiise of their black color they
make an effective contrast to the pale or vivid colors of the
more common foods.

Very attractive decorations for meat, fish, salads or aspic
are vegetables cut into simple flower designs. Cucumbers,
beets, turnips, Russian radishes and carrots with chopped
greens are the materials to have at hand. For a lily, cut a
long cucumber in half crosswise. Stand up on this cut surface
and with a sharp knife cut narrow strips, not too thin, from
tip to within an inch of the base. Continue until all the white,
too, is cut into strips resembling petals. Into the center in-
sert a long narrow carrot, root end up, to simulate the yellow
stamen. If necessary wrap base with a rubber band to hold
tightly. Beets and round turnips can be peeled and cut to
resemble budding roses. The turnips can be stained with vege-
table coloring if desired. Flat slices of turnip or Russian radish

GARNISHES

cut to resemble daisies have a center of carrot and a sprinkle
of chopped green. Calla lilies may be made of thin slices of
larger turnips. Roll until the edges meet in cornucopia shape
and fasten with a toothpick. Insert a long slender carrot or
carrot strip for the stamen and fasten with another toothpick.
Broccoli, leek, shallot, or spinach leaves may be attached. Easter
lilies are made the same way except that the petal is split after
rolling the calyx.

IS ONLY ONE
ECTIYE DE-
I01BLE

CEREALS

CEREALS or grains are tlie seeds of certain grasses, the most
important of which are wheat, oats, rice, barley, corn,
rye and buckwheat. To most persons "cereals" designate
only breakfast cereals; and, while the term "cereal foods"
actually does include also commercial products made from
cereals such as macaroni and spaghetti, corn-starch and the
different flours, the present chapter deals only with cereals in
the breakfast-cereal sense. There are many kinds of breakfast-
cereal products on the market. Most of them are made from
the cereals listed above but they differ because of variety in
the processes of their manufacture. The so-called breakfast-
cereals have a wide usefulness in meals other than breakfast.

Storage of Cereals

'VTith a suitable storage place, cereals and flour may be kept
for several months. Unless there is a cool, dry place for storing
them, they should be purchased only in amounts that can be
used in a few days. This is especially true in warm weather.

Cereal products are liable to spoilage for two reasons: they
may become wormy, or they may become rancid. Products
made from the whole grain are more subject to spoilage than
the refined products, because the whole products contain the
germ, which is high in fat, and it is this that becomes rancid;
it is this, also, that offers suitable material for the development
of eggs laid by insects.

Cereals should be purchased from a merchant whose store is
known to be kept in a sanitary condition. Closed glass jars
are excellent for keeping cereals. If package cereal is purchased,
it should be placed in closed glass jars after it is opened, thus
insuring against infection by insects.

Whole or Refined Cereals

Seeds are made up of starchy material in a network of protein,
and protected by several coats of fiber generally referred to as
bran or cellulose. In the process of manufacture a part or all
of the outer coats may be removed so that the actual composi-

CEREALS 93

tion of the cereal is a matter determined by the method of
manufacture. If a large part is removed, the cereal is called
highly refined.; if a small part is removed, it becomes less
highly refined; and if the coats are not at all, or but slightly
removed, it is called "whole." Therefore, the terms "whole"
and "refined" refer to the amount of outer coating which the
cereal contains and not to the size of the particles into which
the grain is ground.

One way to determine whether cereals are whole or refined
is by the color. The less highly refined cereals are apt to be
dark in color, and the more highly refined cereals are light in
color.

Pre-Cooked Cereals

Cereals were formerly bought uncooked, but by modern
methods of manufacture they may be partly or entirely cooked.
Thus we have, in oats or wheat, a partly cooked product; and
the long list of ready-to-eat cereals or entirely cooked products
which need only a few minutes of reheating to be ready for the
table.

Cooking Cereals

Two of the important secrets in cooking cereals so that they
are acceptable are:

1. To alk)W enough water to swell and soften all the starch.

2. To cook them long enough to swell the starch and soften
the cellulose present so that the starch may be exposed to the
action of heat and water.

Cereals high in starch and low in cellulose or bran absorb
more water than do cereals containing proportionately less
starch and more cellulose or bran. Also, coarsely ground or
unground cereals require more time to cook than the finely
ground ones. These facts determine the method used in cook-
ing. A refined cereal will require a proportionately larger
amount of water than a whole cereal, though it will require
less time in the cooking; a coarsely ground cereal will require
longer time than a finely ground cereal.

Thorough cooking of cereals is necessary for two reasons:
first, celliilose requires plenty of time to soften; and second,
starch gains in flavor by cooking.

Methods of Cooking — Cereals may be boiled directly over
the heat; steamed, as in a double boiler; or cooked in a fireless

cooker. The first is the quickest process but requires attention
in order to prevent sticking; and, even when stirred frequently,
some sticking may occur. Since the slower cooking develops
the flavor and more thoroughly softens the cellulose, the use of
either double boiler or fireless cooker is recommended.

Amount of Water Needed — ^Tastes differ greatly con-
cerning consistency of cereals. Some persons like a thin cereal,
almost a "gruel"; others prefer a thicker product, or "mush,"
while still others choose a thick "porridge." The following sug-
gestions are only general. The directions on the packages are
safe to follow in cooking any uncooked or partly cooked cereal,
then if a thicker or thinner product is desired it is easy to de-
termine the proportions that best suit the family and make your
own rules.

In General:

1. Rolled cereals, such as rolled oats or rolled wheat, require about
two parts of water to one of cereal.

2. Coarsely ground cereals from the whole grain, and unground
whole grains require about four parts of water to one of cereal.

3. Finely ground refined cereals require from five to six parts of
water to one of cereal.

Where directions are lacking for any cereal bought in bulk,
the following table will serve as a fair guide.

Amounts of Water to Use with Various Cereals

To One Cup

Use Cups Water

Will Make Cups Product

Cornmeal

5 to 6

5 +

Hominy Grits

4 to 5

4 +

Oatmeal

4 to 5

4 +

Oats, rolled

2 to lYz

2 +

Rice

4 to 5

4 +

Samp

4 to 5

4 +

Wheat, finely

ground

5 to 6

5+ •

Amount of Salt Needed— -Tastes differ again here, but a
safe rule from which to vary is to use one teaspoonful to each
quart of water used.

Swelling of Cereals — ^The amount of swelling is the same
as the amount of water required; that is, rolled cereals swell
about twice, coarsely ground or whole cereals swell about four

CEREALS 95

times; and finely ground and refined cereals swell from five to
six times.

Time Needed For Cooking — Cereal products have a nat-
urally delicious flavor, although not pronounced, which is
brought out by long slow cooking, and the right proportion of
water and salt.

Long slow cooking used to mean four to six hours, but manu-
facturing processes have cut the time considerably — ^to fifteen
or twenty minutes in the case of some of the fine grained wheat
products, and even three to five minutes for partially cooked
cereals. However, a longer cooking only improves them.

In trying a breakfast cereal for the first time, follow the
directions on the package; then if you wish, adapt them to
the consistency and saltiness you prefer.

Some cereals may be boiled — notably rice, and those partially
cooked products that need only three to five minutes cooking,
and so demand but little constant attention. The standard ways
of cooking cereals are steaming in a double boiler or baking
in a slow oven, as in making creamy rice and Indian puddings.
The baking method has obvious advantages, and can well be
extended to include cereals for breakfast or entrees, omitting
the sugar and flavoring.

If cereal is cooked in the evening for the following breakfast.
It may stand in the double boiler all night and be heated in the
morning. It is well not to stir it in the morning until it is
thoroughly hot, because stirring when cold is apt to cause
lumps which resist being made smooth.

Variations in Use of Cereals

Cereals may be cooked in milk instead of water, or a part of
the water may be replaced by milk. This method offers an
easy way of increasing the milk content of a meal and makes
the cereal dish more nutritious. Raisins, dried fruit or fresh
fruit supply a pleasing addition to cooked cereals. Dates or
figs cut into pieces and stirred into the cereal before serving
make a very appetizing change.

To prevent a hardening over of the cereal due to standing,
two or three tablespoons of water may be poured over the top
of the cereal after the cooking process at night is finished.

Filling:

HOT TAMALES

% pound chicken or 3 doves garlic

% pound veal or beef 2 teaspoons salt

3 ounces chili powder 1^ cups hot water

1 small onion Bay leaves

Envelop)

)e:

4 cups yellow corn meal 2^4 cups stock

1 teaspoon salt ^/^ pound fat

1 pound comhu^s

The *'redi-cut" cornhusks may be bouglit. Field cornhusks
must have both ends removed; immerse in cold water while
filling is prepared.

Bofl both meats in water to which have been added one small
onion, a clove of garlic and two bay leaves. When meat is tender
remove and drain stock, setting it aside to use in making en-
velope. Cut meat into amall cubes. Heat 3 tablespoons of fat,
add meat and brown. Mash 2 cloves of garlic and add to meat.
Stir the chili powder and spices with hot water and mix well
with the meat. Cook mixture 10 minutes.

To make the envelope: Mix 4 cups yellow corn meal, salt,
half the stock and all of fat. Beat well with a wooden spoon
and then add remainder of the stock. It is very important that
the mixture be well beaten to make it Kght. Dry cornhusks on
the inside, spread thinly with mixture; add one teaspoon of
chili meat filling and roll up Hke a cigarette. Fold both ends
down. Stack in a steamer and cook until well done. If a steamer
is not available, place an ordinary kitchen pot lid c«i bottom
of a deep kettle. Cover with husks and stack taniales over this
in "pyramid" style. Pour four cups of boiling water over
tamales, cover tightly and cook over a low flame for 45 minutes
or one hour. Always serve tamales hot.

YEAST BREADS

BREAD as a universal article of food has much in its favor.
Flour, its chief ingredient, is not quickly perishable and
is rather easily stored and transported. Bread itself keeps well,
is mild in flavor, is inexpensive and furnishes material needed
by the human machine.

Excellent bread can be made of good bread flour, salt, water
and yeast. Better bread can be made if sugar and fat are added.
It is in the handling of the dough, not in the proportions of in-
gredients, that much bread is ruined.

Flours and Meals Used in Bread-making

"While flours and meals made from oats, corn, rice and other
seeds are used to some extent with wheat flour in making yeast
breads, by far the larger amount of yeast bread is made from
wheat flour only and most of it is made from highly refined
white flour. This is because the gluten of wheat flour possesses
properties of toughness and elasticity which enable the dough
containing it to stretch and hold gases produced in it by the
action of yeast or introduced into it by baking-powder. The
dough rises and becomes light.

However, the quality of wheat flour depends upon the season
in which the wheat is grown. Winter wheat is sown in the
fall, remains in the ground all winter and is harvested in the
summer. This grain is generally poor in gluten, but rich in
starch. "Winter wheat is used largely for pastry flour. Spring
wheat is sown in the spring and is harvested in the summer at
about the same time as the winter wheat. The grain is generally
rich in gluten but poor in starch. Spring wheat flours are best
for bread making. Standard flours are a mixture of spring and
winter wheat^ and they vary little in quality.

In Selecting a Flour For Bread-making every effort
should be made to secure a flour of good bread-making prop-
erties. Bread flour, when rubbed between the fingers, has a
granular feeling. It will not hold its shape when pressed in
the hand. Bread flour can be xised successfully in making
cakes and pastries.

98^

A Good Pastry Flour differs from bread flour in contain-
ing more starch and not only less gluten but a less elastic gluten
than bread flour. It has an oily feeling when rubbed between
the fingers, and holds its shape when pressed in the hand.
Pastry flour can not be used successfully in making bread.

Whole- Wheat or entire-wheat flour, combined in right
proportions with white flour, can be made into excellent bread.

Graham Flour, although coarse, may, rightly combined
with white flour, be made into excellent bread.

Proportions of Flour and Liquid in Dough

For one cup of liquid use approximately three cups of flour.
This proportion varies widely because of differences in the
absorptive powers of different flours. A good bread flour will
take up more water than a poor bread flour. Flour, except
graham or whole wheat, should always be sifted before being
measured.

Yeast

The most satisfactory temperature for the growth of yeast
is from 75° to 95° F. It ceases to grow when the temperature
is below 30° F. and is killed at about 212° F. Yeast should not
be softened in very cold water if immediate activity is desired.

Compressed Yeast — A cake of fresh compressed yeast
breaks with a clean edge and has no odor of putrefaction. It is
creamy yellow and uniform in color. When old, compressed
yeast becomes slightly slippery, is streaky, and has an un-
pleasant odor. Only fresh compressed yeast should be used in
bread-making. In compressed yeast the yeast plants are alive
and ready for action, hence bread-making with compressed
yeast requires less time than with dry yeast.

Dry Yeast — ^Dry yeast is a mass of yeast plants mixed with
corn-meal and dried. As yeast will live for some time and yet
can not grow without moisture, these dry cakes will keep for
many weeks. The dried plants are inactive and even when
warmth and moisture, food and air are supplied, they take
some time to become active again.

Liquid, Railroad or Starter Yeast — This consists of po-
tato water, sugar and salt, in which yeast plants are in an active
condition. The starter must be stored in a cool temperature
to retard the action of the yeast. The disadvantage of liquid
yeast lies in the fact that other yeasts than those best suited

YEAST BREADS 99

for bread-making may be thriving there also, and soon bread
made from this perpetual yeast may have a characteristic flavor.
Starter should be thrown out occasionally and remade with a
fresh yeast cake.

Amounts of Yeast

From one-sixth of a cake to four cakes of compressed yeast
may be used to one cup of liquid in making bread. The amount
of yeast within this range does not affect the flavor of the bread
if the dough is handled properly. With the minimum amount
of yeast, the process will take six hours or more; with the maxi-
mum amount of yeast, it may, with skillful handling, be com-
pleted in one hour and twenty minutes. From two tablespoons
to one cup liquid yeast may be used for each loaf of bread.

Methods of Using Yeast

Compressed or dry yeast should be softened in from one-
fourth to one-half cup of lukewarm water to which one tea-
spoon of sugar has been added. The compressed yeast may be
used immediately. The dry yeast may be set aside in a warm
place for an hour before it is added to the batter.

Liquids for Bread-making

All liquids should be boiled or scalded before being used,
to kill any organisms which might develop in the dough.

Milk is the best liquid because of its contribution to the food
value as well as to the appearance of the loaf. It gives a white
crumb and a rich golden brown crust. The loaf retains its mois-
ture better than when no milk is used.

Water is cheap, but has no food value. It produces a satis-
factory loaf, however.

Potato Water produces a characteristic crust excellent in
flavor and hastens the action of the yeast. It darkens the bread
slightly but gives a loaf which retains its moisture and does not
get stale as quickly as when water alone is used.

Miscellaneous Materials Used in Bread

Sugar is added to improve flavor, to produce a better bloom
in the crust and to hasten the activity of the yeast. Too much
sugar slackens or softens the dough. In making large quantities

100

of bread, the liquid is decreased if a large quantity of sugar is
used.

Salt is used to improve the flavor of bread. Too much salt
retards the activity of the yeast.

Fat is added to give slight tenderness to both crust and crumb
and to improve the keeping qualities of the loaf. Any soft fat
of mild flavor may be used as shortening in bread.

Eggs give a yellow color to the crumb and a brown rich bloom
to the crust. Because of their leavening power, eggs add to the
lightness of the loaf.

Currants, Raisins, Dates and Other Fruit add flavor
and nutrition but have little effect on the texture of the dough.

Nuts add shortening in addition to flavor and food value.

General Directions for Making Bread

Scald All Liquids to ensure destruction of micro-organisms
which might interfere with the action of the yeast plant.

Add Fat, Sugar and Salt to the hot liquid and let it cool
until it is lukewarm.

Add the Yeast Cake, softened in a small amount of water
to which one teaspoon of sugar may be added.

Add the Flour, sifted before measuring, except graham
and whole-wheat flours, which are measured before they are
sifted. There are two methods of mixing flour into dough:

SPONGE METHOD

Add one-half of the flour to the liquid-and-yeast mixture
and beat thoroughly. Set in a warm place. When the batter
is light, add the remaining flour, or enough to make a dough
of the desired stiffness, and knead thoroughly until it no
longer sticks to the board.

STRAIGHT DOUGH METHOD

Add to the liquid-and-yeast mixture all the flour to be used
or enough to make a dough of the desired stiffness and knead
thoroughly until it no longer sticks to the board. This method
may always be used with compressed yeast.

Kneading Bread— Press the dough away with the palms of
your hands. Stretch the dough from the edge, folding the

KNEAD YOUR DOUGH
FIRMLY BUT QUICKLY
AND DEFTLY. FOLD IT
INTO LOAVES WITH THE
LEAST POSSIBLE FLOUR/
DIVIDE YOUR LOAF INTO
THREE AND BRAID IT
pca^SlpNALI^Y

ROLL YOUR OWN INT

CLOVER-LEAVES, CRESCENT

POCKETBOOKS AND PARKI

HOUSE

—Wheat Flour Institute

YEAST BREADS loi

back edge over to the center. Press the dough away with the
palms of your hands, exerting sufficient force to cause the part
folded over to adhere to the mass under it, and repeat folding.
Turn dough one-quarter around and repeat kneading. Con-
tinue turning, folding and kneading until dough is smooth
and elastic and will not stick to an unfloured board.

First Rising of Dough — Put the dough into a greased
receptacle large enough to hold at least three times the bulk of
the dough. Grease the top of the dough, cover the receptacle
and set in a warm place. Let the dough rise until it trebles its
bulk.

Second Rising of Dough — Remove dough from receptacle,
bring the top around the under side and fold edges together.
This leaves a ball-shaped mass, round and smooth on the upper
surface. Bread carefully shaped in this way seems to give a
much better product than seamy rough dough. Put back in
receptacle. Grease the dough, cover the receptacle, return to
warm place to rise again. This second rising is not essential
but is worth while because it improves both the texture and
the flavor of bread.

Shaping into Loaves — Shape by folding the sides of a piece
of dough under while pressing the dough so as to lengthen it.
The top should be kept perfectly smooth and the only crease
in the dough should be on the under side as the loaf is placed
in the tin. If a soft crust is desired, grease the dough. To braid,
cut into three, roll lengthwise, pinch together at one end, and
proceed. Cover and allow to rise until double its bulk.

Baking Bread — A loaf of average size should bake from fifty
to sixty minutes at a beginning temperature of about 400° F.
After fifteen or twenty minutes, the temperature of the oven
may be reduced. A moderate heat for sixty minutes produces
better bread than a hot oven for thirty minutes.

The baking process may be divided into four periods:

First 1 5 minutes the dough should continue to rise.

Second 1 5 minutes the dough should crust over and brown
slightly.

Third 1 5 minutes the center of the loaf should bake and the
crust continue to brown.

Fourth 15 minutes the loaf should shrink from the sides of
the tin and should be browned evenly over its entire surface.
It should have a hollow sound when tapped.

102

Bread is baked to complete the rising, kill the yeast plants,
drive otf the carbon dioxide and alcohol, dextrinize the crust,
harden the cell walls of the crumb and develop the desired
flavor.

Tests for Determining When Bread Is Done

1. When the color is a rich golden brown.

2. When the loaf shrinks away from the sides of the pan.

3. When the sides of the pan sizzle when touched with

a damp finger.

4. When a clean toothpick inserted comes out free from

any particles of the dough.

5. When the loaf gives a hollow sound on being tapped.

Characteristics of a Good Loaf of Bread

Size and Shape — ^A medium-sized loaf made of dough
weighing from one pound to one and one-quarter pounds costs
less to bake and is more likely to be thoroughly baked than a
very large loaf. A moderate-sized loaf is about four or £.ve
inches deep, eight or nine inches long, and four or five inches
wide.

The careful shaping of the dough is the first step necessary
in making a well-shaped loaf of bread.

Color — ^Bread should have a good bloom and be golden
brown in color with a depth of crust on top, bottom and sides.
The crumb should be cream- white in color with no dark streaks
through it. A grayish color indicates poor flour or poor
handling of the dough.

Texture — ^Nothing is more difficult to describe than texture,
nothing more indicative of quality. Perfect texture of the
crumb depends on kneading the dough until it is smooth and
elastic and until it can be kneaded on an unfloured board with-
out sticking. It depends on having the dough rise to double
or treble its size once or twice before it is made into the loaf^
and once in the tins. It depends on careful baking. To de-
termine the texture of the crumb, cut the loaf in two. The
holes should be small and uniform with no streak near the bot-
tom of the loaf and no lumps through the loaf. Press the

YEAST BREADS 103

center of the loaf with the knuckles; if the elasticity and mois-
ture are right, the loaf should spring back to shape.

The crust should be smooth without large holes on the bot-
tom and without a split on one side of the loaf. If the top
crust is rough it may be due to insufficient kneading or to
putting the dough into the tins before it is perfectly smooth.

Flavor and Odor — A well-made, well-baked loaf will
taste slightly sweet, neither too fresh nor too salty, and will
have no suggestion of acidity, rawness or mustiness.

Common Causes of Inferior Bread

Poor Flour — A cheap flour is an expensive flour because it
makes a loaf inferior in texture, color, flavor and volume.

Old Yeast — ^Dead yeast plants can not leaven bread. Old
compressed-yeast cakes or dry yeast which has been stored
away until many of the yeast plants are dead will act very
slowly if at all and will not give best results.

Too Much or Too Little Kneading — Over-kneaded
dough becomes sticky and will not rise well in the oven. Un-
der-kneaded dough makes streaked bread, poor in texture,
which sometimes contains lumps that might have been worked
out in the kneading.

Too Much Flour — ^Too stiff a dough rises very slowly and
therefore often is not allowed to rise sufficiently. This is a
green dough and produces a loaf with poor flavor.

Over-Rising — ^Too long rising gives a very porous loaf with
little flavor, a pale crust and a porous crumb with broken, irreg-
ular cells. This bread crumbles badly. If the rising continues
too long, the bread is sour.

Under-Rising — ^This gives a bread of dark crust which has
blisters just under the crust. The loaf is small and flat. It
browns easily in the oven. Such dough is said to be green.

Too Cool an Oven — ^Bread will continue to rise too long
if the oven temperature is too low. The result is bread that is
very porous in the center and upper part of the loaf.

Too Hot an Oven — ^The dough crusts over immediately
and can not continue to rise the first ten or fifteen minutes it
is in the oven, or the crust may break as it is forced up —
usually on one side more than the other. The crust becomes
very brown while the center is underdone.

RoPM in Bread— This appears during hot, damp weather.

104

It is due to the presence of a bacillus and the ropy, stringy-
quality does not develop immediately after the bread is baked.
Rope gives bread a very disagreeable odor and makes it unfit
for use.

If rope develops all utensils used in making bread and con-
tainers in which bread is stored should be sterilized with boil-
ing water. Vinegar equal to two per cent, of the amount of
flour used should be added to all bread made until the supply
of flour is exhausted. This is approximately one-half ounce
(one tablespoon) of vinegar to one and one-half pounds of
flour.

Mold — Bread wrapped while hot molds quickly. Containers
used for storing bread should be washed and aired frequently,
and immediately if mold is found.

Care of Bread After Baking

Bread should be removed from the tins as soon as it is taken
from the oven, and placed on racks or crosswise of the tins so
that air can circulate on all sides of it. Quick cooling prevents
loss of moisture.

Varying from Recipes in Making Bread

Water may be substituted for milk in all bread recipes. This
is not always desirable, however, as one purpose of milk is to
increase the nutritive value of bread.

In recipes using compressed yeast, one cup potato yeast may
be substituted for one cake compressed or dry yeast. When
potato yeast is used it is necessary to use a little more flour.

STANDARD RECIPE FOR WHITE BREAD

2 cups milk ^ to 2 compressed yeast

lYz teaspoons salt cakes softened in Y^ to Yz

1 teaspoon to 2 tablespoons cup lukewarm water

sugar 6 to 8 cups sifted flour

Shortening, if desired, up to (enough to make a dough)

2 tablespoons

Scald milk, add salt, sugar and shortening and cool. When
lukewarm add the softened yeast. Add flour to make a stiff
batter, beating well. Add flour enough to make a firm but not
stiff dough. Mix and turn on to a floured board. Knead until

YEAST BREADS 105

the mixture is smooth and elastic to the touch and until it does
not stick to the hands or to the unfloured board. Put into a
greased bowl, brush over top with melted fat. Cover and set
in a warm place to rise. When it has almost trebled in bulkj
fold it under and let it rise again. When light, shape into loaves
and put into greased bread tins. Let rise until almost treble in
bulk. Bake in a hot to moderate oven (400° F. to 375 ° F.) for
fifty to sixty minutes. Remove from pans and cool as quickly
as possible. Well-made and thoroughly baked bread should
keep from five to ten days in a thoroughly clean, well-aired
bread-box.

POTATO BREAD

Vi cup boiling water 1 cake yeast softened in

1J4 teaspoons salt J4 cup lukewarm water

1 tablespoon sugar 4 cups flour (enough to make

1 tablespoon fat medium dough)

2 cups mashed potato

Combine in order given, following general directions for
bread-making, straight dough method (page 100).

POTATO YEAST

(Liquid, Railroad or Starter)

'6 medium-sized potatoes ^ cup sugar

4 pints boiling water 3 tablespoons salt

1 cup flour 1 yeast cake softened in

Yz teaspoon ginger 1 cup lukewarm water

Pare potatoes and cut in small pieces. Cook in the boiling
water until well done. Mash the potatoes or force them
through a colander.

Mix sugar, salt, ginger and flour. Pour over these ingredi-
ents the hot, cooked, mashed potatoes with the water in which
they were cooked. When lukewarm add the softened yeast.
Keep at room temperature twenty- four hours.

Pour into sterilized crock or jar. Cover and store in a cool,
dark place. Liquid yeast may be used for two weeks. It is
not desirable to keep it longer. When making new liquid
yeast, use t>ne cup of the old liquid yeast or a compound yeast
cake to start it.

io6

CORN BREAD

Yz cup corn-meal Yz cake compressed yeast,

1^ cups water softened in ^ cup warm

154 teaspoons salt water

2 tablespoons sugar 2^ to 3 cups flour (enough

1 tablespoon shortening to make medium dough)

Cook the corn-meal in the water ten minutes; add salt, sugar
and fat to the mush. Cool until lukewarm, stirring occasionally
to prevent a film. When cool add the yeast and beat well.
Add the flour and mix well. Knead, using as little flour on
the board as possible. Put into a greased bowl, let rise imtil
it almost doubles in bulk. "Work it down and let it rise again.
Mold it into loaves, place in pan and let rise until it has almost
doubled in bulk. Bake in a moderate oven (400° to 350° F.).

RAISIN BREAD

2 cups scalded milk /4 to 1 yeast cake softened in

2 tablespoons shortening Yz cup warm water

Ya cup molasses White flour to make a medium

1 Y2 teaspoons salt dough

^ cup raisins, chopped and floured

Follow general directions for making bread, either sponge
method (page 100) or straight dough method (page 100). Add
raisins after the bread is kneaded.

GRAHAM BREAD

2 cups scalded milk J^ to 1 yeast cake softened in
\Yz teaspoons salt Yz cup warm water

2 tablespoons molasses or 1 cup wheat flour

2 tablespoons sugar About 5 cups graham flour

Follow general directions for making bread, adding only the
white flour at first. Let the mass stand in a warm place until
light. Stir in graham flour to make a stiff batter. Pour into
a baking-dish and when it has almost doubled in bulk bake for
one hour in a moderate oven (400° to 3 50° F.) . If a less moist
bread is desired, enough flour, part white and part graham,
may be used to make a dough and the bread may be made by
the straight dough method (page 100).

YEAST BREADS

107

WHOLE-WHEAT BREAD

2 cups scalded milk 5 cups whole-wheat flour

2 to 4 tablespoons sugar 2 to 3 cups white flour —

1 to 2 tablespoons shortening enough to make a medium-

1 Yz teaspoons salt stiff dough

1 yeast cake softened in ^ cup warm water

Follow general directions for making bread (page 100).

RYE BREAD

Follow recipe for whole-wheat bread, using rye flour instead
of whole-wheat and adding caraway seeds if desired.

ROLLED-OATS BREAD

1 cup rolled oats 1 tablespoon melted shortening

2 cups boiling water 54 to 1 yeast cake, softened in
Yz cup molasses or brown or Y2. cup lukewarm water

white sugar AY2 cups sifted flour

\Yz teaspoons salt

Let the rolled oats steam for an hour in the boiling water.
Cool and add the yeast, molasses, salt, and melted fat. Then
stir in the flour and set away to rise. When light, beat
thoroughly, place in greased bread-pans, let rise again, and bake
in a moderate oven (400° to 3 50° F.) one hour. If a less moist
bread is desired, add enough white flour in the beginning to
make a medium dough and follow directions for straight dough
method (page 100).

GLUTEN BREAD

2 cups scalded milk 2 egg-whites

1 yeast cake softened in XYi teaspoons salt

54 cup lukewarm water 4 cups gluten flour

"When the milk is cool, add the softened yeast, the salt, the
gluten flour, a little at a time, and finally the slightly beaten
whites of eggs. The mixture should be of a consistency to drop
from a spoon rather than to pour and should be baked in
greased pans filled about half full. Follow general directions
for rising (page 101 ) . When ready, bake one hour in a moderate

io8

oven (400° to 350° F.). If a less moist bread is desired, add
enough white flour to make a dough, after beating in the
gluten flour, and follow directions for straight dough method
of making bread, (page 100).

REFRIGERATOR ROLLS

1/2 yeast cake li/^ teaspoons sugar

2 cups sifted flour % cup milk

1/g teaspoon salt J/2 cup butter

Crumble yeast into sifted dry ingredients and mix well. Add
cold milk and make into a soft dough. Turn onto a lightly
floured board and knead until light and elastic. Roll into a long
narrow strip ^ inch thick. Divide butter into 5 portions. On
half of strip place 1 portion of hard butter, thinly sliced. Fold
over remaining half of strip and press down firmly. Let stand
10 minutes in refrigerator. Repeat 4 times. After last rolling
wrap in waxed paper and chill in refrigerator overnight. In
morning cut dough into portions. Roll out each portion Yz inch
thick and shape into crescents, pocketbooks, twists or any other
desired shapes. Place on baking sheet. Brush with milk and
melted butter. Sprinkle with salt or poppy seed if desired.
Place shaped rolls in refrigerator, cover with waxed paper and
let chill Yz to several hours or until needed. Bake at once in hot
oven (400° F.) 18 to 20 minutes. Makes 16 rolls.

STANDARD ROLL RECIPE

2 cups scalded milk 6 cups flour (enough to make

1 Y2 teaspoons salt a smooth, tender dough)

4 tablespoons sugar 4 tablespoons shortening

1 yeast cake softened in Ya cup warm water

If a greater amount of sugar is used the rolls will be sweeter.
If a greater amount of shortening is used, the rolls will be
richer and more tender. Not less than two or more than eight
tablespoons of sugar or fat should be used, however.

Follow general directions for making bread (page 100)
kneading in a little less flour and permitting the dough to be-
come lighter during each rising process both after it is shaped
and before the rolls are placed in the oven.

YEAST BREADS 109

VARIATIONS OF STANDARD ROLL RECIPE

Plain Rolls — When dough is Hght, cut or tear it into
pieces about the size of a small eg§ or a walnut. Fold the
sides under until the top of the roll is perfectly smooth. Brush
the top with fat. Place in greased bread tin or on bread sheet
or in individual molds. When light, bake in a hot oven (400°-
425° F.)

Cinnamon Rolls — ^Follow standard roll recipe. When
dough is light, roll into a sheet about one -fourth inch thick,
spread liberally with melted butter, sprinkle with sugar and
cinnamon. Add currants if desired. Roll like jelly-roll. With
sharp knife or shears cut slices from the roll and place them
an inch apart on a well-greased sheet. When light, bake in
hot oven (400° -42 5° F.) about twenty minutes. When baked,
the tops may be brushed with the yolk of egg diluted with a
tablespoon of milk and returned to oven to brown.

Clover-Leaf Rolls — ^Follow standard roll recipe. When
light, break dough into small pieces about the size of marbles.
Brush with fat and place three or four of these tiny balls close
together in greased muffin rings or pans. When very light,
bake about fifteen minutes in hot oven (400° -42 5° F.). The
success of these rolls depends on having the three balls together
equal only as much dough as an ordinary roll would require
and letting them rise very light before baking them.

Crescent Rolls — ^Follow standard roll recipe, adding flour
to make a stiffer dough than for most rolls. When light, cut
the dough into small pieces the shape of triangles. Brush with
fat. Roll each triangle, beginning at the base. Press dough
lightly with palm of hand, bringing ends around to form a
crescent. Place on tins some distance apart. When light, bake
in hot oven (400° -42 5° F.) fifteen minutes. Brush with egg-
yolk mixed with milk and return to oven for browning.

Dinner Rolls — ^Follow standard roll recipe, using four
tablespoons shortening, desired amount of sugar and two egg-
whites. Add one-half the flour, beating until smooth, then
add the beaten whites of eggs. Add the remainder of the flour,
knead lightly and let rise. When light, cut or break dough
into rolls the size of walnuts. Shape, place on well-greased
pans, one-half to one inch apart, let rise and glaze with white
of egg diluted with water. Bake in hot oven (400° -42 5° F.).

Finger Rolls — ^Follow standard roll recipe and when light
cut and shape into long pieces about the size and shape of a
finger. Place on well -greased pan, brush with melted fat or
egg-white. When light, bake in hot oven (400° -42 5° F.).

Luncheon Rolls — ^Follow standard roll recipe using 6 to
S tablespoons of shortening. Add two well-beaten eggs after
one-half the flour has been added. Add remaining flour and
knead. "When light shape into small biscuits. Place one inch
apart in well-greased pan. When double in bulk, brush with
egg-yolk diluted with milk and bake in hot oven (400°-
425° F.).

Parker House Rolls (Pocket-Book Rolls) — Follow
standard roll recipe. Four tablespoons each of sugar and short-
ening give excellent results. When light, roll dough one-
fourth inch thick. Cut with biscuit-cutter, brush each circle
with melted fat and crease through the center of each roll with
the dull edge of a knife. Fold each roll over double. Place
on well-greased pan one inch apart, brush with melted fat and
when very light bake in hot oven (400° -42 5° F.).

Twisted Rolls — ^Follow standard roll recipe. When light,
break dou^ into small pieces and roll out with palm of hand
into rolls about seven inches long and one-half inch thick,
taking an end of each strip between the thumb and forefinger
of each hand, twist in opposite directions and bring the ends
together. Shape the two ends alike, place one-half inch apart
on well-greased pans, brush with melted fat or egg-yolk diluted
with milk. When light, bake in hot oven (400° -42 5° F.).

Tea Biscuit — Follow standard roll recipe. When dough is
light, roll and cut with biscuit-cutter. Place on well-greased
pans one-half inch apart. When light bake in hot oven (400°-
42r F.).

English Muffins — ^Follow standard roll recipe, making a
very soft dough. Knead lightly until smooth and elastic. Work
down and when light again roll out with rolling-pin to about
one-fourth inch in thickness. Cut in circles. When light, bake
on tmgreased hot griddle. As soon as they are brown on one
side, turn them over. When both sides are browned, bake
more slowly until finished. They may be browned on the
griddle and then put into the oven to finish baking.

A modification of this recipe may be made by adding only
enough flour to make a drop batter. Let it rise until light.
Drop batter into large, greased English muffin rings, arranged

YEAST BREADS III

on a greased baking-sheet. Bake in a hot oven (400° -425°
F.) until nearly done. Turn rings upside down and complete
baking.

BREAD STICKS

1 cup milk 1 yeast cake dissolved in

4 tablespoons shortening ^ cup lukewarm water

1 Yz tablespoons sugar 1 t%,%

Yz teaspoon salt 3 Yz cups flour

Scald the milk and cool it. Cream the shortening and sugar,
add the milk and salt. Add the dissolved yeast, the egg-white,
well beaten, and the flour. Knead and let it rise. Shape into
sticks about the size of a lead pencil. Put into a floured pan,
far apart; the sticks must not touch one another after they have
risen. When light, put into a hot oven (400° *F.) then de-
crease the heat so that the sticks may become dry and crisp.

MONTE CARLO BREAD

2 cups scalded milk 2 yeast cakes softened in
lYz teaspoons salt Y2 cup lukewarm Water

1 cup sugar 9 cups flour (enough to make

1 cup shortening soft dough)

6 eggs 1 Y2 cups currants

Add scalded milk to salt, sugar and shortening. When luke-
warm, add the yeast. Add one-half the flour and beat well.
Let rise until very light. Add slightly beaten eggs, currants
and remaining flour. Knead lightly, let rise and when light
place in well-oiled bread-pans. Let rise and when light bake in
moderate oven (400° to 375° F.). When the bread is a fe\v;
days old, cut in thick slices and toast.

SWEDISH TEA RING

1 cup scalded milk 1 yeast cake softened in
% teaspoon salt Ya cup warm water

14 cup sugar 3^ cups flour

6 tablespoons shortening 1 tg^
% cup finely chopped nuts

Add the scalded milk to the salt, sugar and fat. When luke-
warm add the yeast. Add one-half the flour and beat well.
Let rise until very light. When light add the Qg% and the re-
maining flour and beat well. Let rise. Divide the dough into

112

two parts and shape each in a long, round piece and form two
circles, placing the circles on a baking-tin. Brush with white
of egg and sprinkle with finely chopped nuts. With a large
pair of scissors cut toward the center of the ring, but not quite
to the center, at intervals of two inches, placing the cut section
each time flat on the tin, giving it a petal-like appearance.
When light, bake in a hot oven (400° F.).

RUSKS

1 cup scalded milk ^ teaspoon salt

Yz to 1 yeast cake softened in 2 tablespoons sugar

y4 cup warm water Yz cup shortening

3 Yz to 4 cups flour (enough 1 egg

to make a soft dough)

Cool the milk, add the yeast and one-half the flour. When
light add salt, sugar, shortening, egg and remaining flour. Knead
lightly on well-floured board. Let rise until double in bulk,
roll out and cut with biscuit-cutter. Place on well-oiled pans,
let rise and bake in hot oven (400° F.).

RAISED BUCKWHEAT CAKES

2 cups boiling water 1 tablespoon molasses

Yz cup corn-meal 1 teaspoon salt

Yz yeast cake 2 cups buckwheat flour

Y4 cup warm water 1 teaspoon soda
Yi cup hot milk

Pour the boiling water over the corn-meal and let stand until
it swells. Soften the yeast in the lukewarm water. After the
corn-meal is cool, add the molasses, salt, yeast and flour. Beat
thoroughly and set in a warm place to rise over night. It
should rise and fall again by the morning. Then add a teaspoon
of soda dissolved in the hot milk^ stir well^ and bake on a hot
griddle.

When the cakes are desired frequently (say, three times a
week), fresh yeast will not be required after the first making,
if a little more than a pint of the batter is reserved each time
and kept in a cool place to be used instead of the yeast. Mo-
lasses in buckwheat cakes helps to give them a good color in
frying. Without it, they may be gray and unattractive.

MAKE CRUMPETS OR MUFFINS
FOR YOUR ENGLISH COUSIN
AND HONEY SANDWICH BREAD
AS A TREAT FOR THE FAMILY
—Wheat Flour Institute
—Modern Science Institute

FOR GAY DAYS DO A
HONEY TWIST, SWEDISH
TEA RING OR PECAN
CARAMEL ROLLS

.- W

VA11ATION?

YEAST BREADS I13

RAISED MUFFINS

1 cup scalded milk 1 yeast cake softened in
y^ teaspoon salt % cup warm water
4 tablespoons sugar 3^ cups flour

2 tablespoons shortening 1 tgg

Add the scalded milk to the salt, sugar and shortening. When
lukewarm, add the yeast and one and one-half cups flour.
Beat thoroughly. When very light, add the beaten Qg% and the
remaining flour. Mix well and let the dough rise until double
in bulk. Shape into portions small enough to fit into muffin-
tins. Brush the top with egg-white slightly beaten and sprinkle
with chopped nuts. Let rise in a well-oiled tin and bake in
a hot oven (400''-425° F.).

COFFEE CAKE

1 cup scalded milk % cup sugar

1 cake yeast softened in % teaspoon salt

Yx cup warm water 4 tablespoons shortening

2 cups flour (about) Sugar, cinnamon

Cool the milk and add the yeast and one-half the flour. Beat
well and let rise until very light. Add the slightly beaten Qgg^
sugar, salt and melted fat, mix thoroughly and add remaining
flour. Let rise until almost double in bulk. Pour into shallow,
greased pans. When light, sprinkle thickly with sugar and
cinnamon. Bake twenty minutes in a hot oven (400° F.).
Serve hot. See page 476 for Upside-Down Cakes.
HOT CROSS BUNS

1 cup scalded milk 1 yeast cake softened in
^ teaspoon salt 5/4 cup warm water

Yz cup sugar 4^ cups flour (about)

Yz cup shortening 3 egg-yolks

Add scalded milk to salt, sugar and shortening. When luke-
warm, add yeast and one and one-half cups flour. Beat well
and let rise until very light. Add the egg-yolks and the re-
maining flour. Knead lightly and let rise until double in bulk.
Roll out dough to one inch thickness and cut into rounds. Set
these close together on a greased pan and let rise. Glaze the
surface of each bun with a little egg-white diluted with water.

114

With a sharp knife cut a cross on top of each bun. Bake about
twenty minutes in a hot oven (400° F.). Just before remov-
ing from the oven, brush with sugar and water. Fill the cross
with a plain frosting. A cup of raisins may be added to the
dough, if desired.

BRIOCHE

1 cup milk, scalded 2 yeast cakes

1/^ cup butter % cup lukewarm water

2 teaspoons salt 4 eggs, well beaten
y2 cup sugar Melted butter

A\/2 cups bread flour

Scald milk and add butter, salt and sugar; stir until butter
dissolves. When tepid, add yeast previously soaked in water,
and beaten eggs. Sift flour before measuring, beating well into
mixture. Allow to rise in warm place six hours. Refrigerate
over night or until ready to use. Form quickly into small balls
to J/3 size of mufEn tins or glasses. Brush tops with melted
butter and let rise until double in bulk. Bake in hot oven
(400° F.) for 20 minutes.

For Braids — Dust a bread-board lightly with flour and roll
brioche dough gently into a sheet about one-half inch thick.
Cut the dough in strips one-half inch wide, leaving one end
uncut. Place on greased baking-sheet and brush the cut edges
with melted fat. Fold the strips over each other to form a
braid. Pinch both ends of braid together, flatten, and press
down on pan to prevent strips separating and losing shape.

To Make Bow-Knots — Twist strips of brioche dough lightly
and tie in a bow-knot. Bring the ends down and press to the
pan.

For a Dessert — A very good simple dessert is made by bak-
ing this mixture in small shapes in mufiin-tins and serving it
with chopped fruit and a fruit sauce poured over it.

RAISED DOUGHNUTS

1 cup scalded milk 1 yeast cake softened in

1 teaspoon salt ^ cup lukewarm water
% cup sugar 3 ^ to 4 cups flour

2 tablespoons shortening 1 z^%

Yz teaspoon grated nutmeg

Add scalded milk to salt, sugar and fat. When lukewarm,
add the softened yeast. Add one and one-half cups flour. Al-

[yEAST BREADS 115

low the sponge to stand in a warm place until it is so light that
it will fall at the slightest touch. Add the egg, nutmeg, and
remainder of the flour and knead. The dough should be softer
than bread dough. Cover and set in a warm place to rise. Toss
on a lightly floured board and roll until three-fourths inch
thick. Cut with a doughnut cutter and let rise. Fry in deep
fat (3 60° -3 70° F.) two to three minutes. When frying, put
the raised side of the doughnut down in the fat. The heat
will cause the top side to rise by the time the doughnut is ready
to turn.

SALT RISING BREAD

1 cup milk 1 tablespoon melted shorten-

2 tablespoons white corn-meal ing (may be omitted)
1 teaspoon salt Flour

1 tablespoon sugar

Scald the milk. Allow it to cool until it is lukewarm; then
add the sugar, corn-meal and salt. If shortening is used, add it.
Place in a fruit can or a heavy crock or pitcher and surround
by water at about 120° F. Water at this temperature is the hot-
test in which the hand can be held without inconvenience.
Approximately this temperature can be secured by mixing equal
parts of boiling water and cold (not icy) water. Allow the
mixture to stand for six or seven hours, or until it shows signs
of fermentation. When it is fermented sufficiently the gas can
be heard as it escapes. This leaven contains enough liquid for
one loaf. If more loaves are needed, add 1 cup water, 1 tea-
spoon salt, 1 tablespoon sugar, and 1 tablespoonful shortening
for each additional loaf to be made. Beat thoroughly and put
the sponge again at the temperature of about 120° F. When it
is very light, add more flour gradually until the dough is so stiff
that it can be kneaded without sticking to the hands or to the
board. Knead ten or fifteen minutes; put at once into the
pans; allow to rise until about two and one-half times its
original bulk, and bake. This bread is never so light as bread
raised with yeast. A loaf made with one cup of liquid therefore
will come not quite up to the top of a pan of standard size.

HONEY TWIST

1 cup milk, scalded 14 ^P sugar

1^ cup butter 1 teaspoon salt

ii6

2 cakes compressed yeast 2 eggs

14 cup lukewarm water 5-6 cups flour

Pour hot milk over butter, sugar and salt. Crumble yeast
into lukewarm water to soften. Cool milk to lukewarm, add
yeast and well-beaten eggs. Beat in flour to make a soft dough,
then turn out on a floured board and knead until smooth. Form
into a ball and place in a greased bowl. Cover and let rise until
double in bulk. When light, shape into a long roll about one
inch in diameter. Coil the roll into a greased cake pan, begin-
ning at the outside edge and covering the bottom. Brush with
honey topping. Let rise until double in bulk and bake in mod-
erate oven (375° F.) 25 to 30 minutes.

Honey Topping:

y^ cup butter 1 egg white

2/^ cup confectioners' sugar 2 tablespoons honey, warmed

Cream all ingredients together and brush over Twist before
baking.

USES FOR STALE BREAD

Many ways to prepare stale bread for use in canapes are
found on page 159. Use the cookie cutter freely to produce
additional designs. For bread croustades see page 329. If a
lid is wanted, cut slice of stale bread to fit and toast, using an
olive or radish attached with a toothpick for a knob handle
(page 314).

Day-old rolls make excellent quick canapes. Cut off one end,
scoop out soft center and pack the shell tight with any good
canape paste: anchovy butter, sardine paste, deviled lobster
paste, Roquefort cheese, or any other favorite. Wrap in wax
paper and keep in refrigerator. "When needed slice thin, arrange
carefully on a tin and brown lightly under the broiler. Garnish
with olive rings, radish slices or parsley.

QUICK BREADS

QUICK breads are those breads or bread-like mixtures which
, are made up and baked at once. The essentials of quick
breads are a liquid and flour. When leavening agents are used
they act quickly and make the mixture light without a long
period of waiting.

Quick breads may be improved in flavor and texture by the
addition of salt, sugar, eggs, shortening, etc., in various com-
binations and proportions. Shortening and eggs contribute
liquid to the mixture, which explains apparent discrepancies in
proportions given in various recipes for quick breads.

Ready-to-Use Flours — Prepared flours which contain
leavening and other ingredients require only milk or water to
make excellent griddle cakes. The addition of eggs and shorten-
ing produces a batter suitable for mufiins, waffles, and similar
quick breads.

Types of Quick Breads

There are four types of quick breads — the pour batter, the
drop batter, the soft dough and the stiff dough; the latter is
seldom used.

[The Pour or Thin Batter will pour easily from a spoon or
a pitcher and can vary in degree of thinness. The breakfast
puflf and the popover mixtures are examples of the thinnest
batter, while the griddle-cake and the waffle mixtures are ex-
amples of a thicker pour batter.

The Drop, or Thick, Batter does not pour readily, but
drops In a soft moist mass from a spoon or must be shaken or
helped free from it. Mufflns and fritters are examples of the
drop batter.

The Soft Dough can be handled more or less easily. Biscuits
and some cookie mixtures are examples of the soft dough.

The Stiff Dough can be handled easily, and some force
must be used to roll it out. The Southern beaten biscuit and
noodles are examples of the stiff dough.

117

ii8

Approximate Proportions of Liquid to Flour in Making
Quick Breads

Pour or Thin Batter — ^Use 1 cup liquid with I to V/z cups flour
Drop or Thick Batter — Use 1 cup liquid with 1 ^ to 2 cups flour
Soft Dough — ^Use 1 cup liquid with 2 to lYz cups flour
Stiff Dough — ^Use 1 cup liquid with 4 to 5 cups flour

Methods of Mixing Quick Breads

Muffin Method — This method is usually used for the
batter type of quick bread. The dry ingredients are mixed and
sifted, then the liquid and egg (if used) are added, either
separately or combined. When well mixed, the melted shorten-
ing is beaten in.

Cake Method— This method is used for the richer muffins.
The shortening is creamed, the sugar stirred in, then the beaten
egg added. The rest of the dry ingredients are mixed and sifted
and added gradually to the first mixture alternately with the
liquid.

Biscuit Method — ^The dry ingredients are mixed and sifted
and the shortening cut in with knives or worked in with the
tips of the fingers, it being necessary to keep the fat hard until
the dough goes into the oven. If the shortening becomes warm,
or is melted, the result is not flaky and flakiness should be a
characteristic of biscuits.

PopovER Mixtures should be thoroughly beaten with an
egg-beater for several minutes, in order to introduce as much
air as possible and to break the liquid present into tiny droplets.
The mixture, being very thin, will not hold air very long, so
it should be poured immediately into the baking containers,
which may be of tin, glass, aluminum, earthenware, iron or
steel. If metal containers are used, they should be hot when
the batter is poured into them, so that the baking may begin
as soon as the pans are put into the oven. A hot oven is needed
at first and until the batter has risen to full height, then the
temperature should be reduced in order to prevent burning.

For Griddle-cakes and Waffles the griddles and irons
should stand perfectly level; then if the batter is poujred
steadily from a pitcher or from the tip of a large spoon, it will
spread itself evenly.

Muffin Mixtures and Similar Batters should be stirred

QUICK BREADS 1 19

and beaten only enough to combine ingredients thoroughly and
produce smoothness of texture. The muffins should be baked
at once.

Soft Doughs should be handled as little as possible and
kneaded only enough to make a smooth surface, free from dry
flour. Much kneading develops a stretchiness in the dough
which detracts from flakiness. The dough should be rolled or
patted out to one-half inch or more in thickness if thick, soft
biscuits are desired, or rolled out to one-quarter inch in thick-
ness if thin, crusty biscuits are desired. The biscuits should
be baked at once.

Baking Temperatures For Quick Breads

All quick breads should be baked in a moderate to hot oven
(350°-460° F.).

POPOVERS

1^ cups flour 1 teaspoon sugar

% teaspoon salt 1 cup milk

2 eggs

Mix the flour, salt and sugar. Gradually add the milk and
the well-beaten eggs. Beat thoroughly. Have ready some small
ramekins or muffin-pans, well greased and piping hot. Fill
them about half full of the batter and bake in a hot oven
(450° F.) for twenty minutes. Lower to 350° F. and bake
fifteen to twenty minutes more.

SWEET MILK GRIDDLE-CAKES

3 cups flour 1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons salt 2 cups milk

lYz tablespoons baking- 1 e%g

powder 1 tablespoon melted fat

Mix and sift the dry ingredients and add the milk, gradually,
beating constantly to make a smooth batter. Add the beaten
e%% and the fat and bake on a hot griddle. This makes a thick
bready cake. If a thinner cake is desired, use more milk.

SOUR MILK GRIDDLE-CAKES

Use recipe for sweet-milk griddle-cakes, substituting thick
sour milk for sweet and using one teaspoon of soda instead of
the baking-powder. If thicker than liked, use water to thin.

120

BREAD CRUMB GRIDDLE-CAKES

1 Yz cups stale bread-crumbs ^ cup flour

1 Vz cups scalded milk J/2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons shortening 4 teaspoons baking-powder
2 eggs

Soak the crumbs in the milk and melted fat until they are
soft. Add the eggs, well beaten, and the dry ingredients,
mixed and sifted. Bake on a hot, greased griddle. The cakes
are very tender and should be turned carefully.

BAKING POWDER BUCKWHEAT CAKES

1 Vz cups buckwheat flour Vz teaspoon salt

Yz cup wheat flour 1 tablespoon shortening

5 teaspoons baking-powder XYz cups milk

1 tablespoon molasses

Sift dry ingredients together. Add melted fat to milk and
molasses, then add slowly to dry ingredients. Beat well and
bake until brown on a slightly greased, hot griddle.

RICE GRIDDLE-CAKES

1 cup boiled rice \Yz cups flour

2 cups milk 1 tablespoon shortening
Yz teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons baking-powder
1 tablespoon sugar 1 t%%

Put the cooked rice to soak with one cup of milk, and in the
morning add the salt, sugar, shortening, flour and baking-
powder. Beat the mixture well, then add the well-beaten t%%
and the other cup of milk. Bake on a hot greased griddle.

CORN-MEAL GRIDDLE-CAKES

1 cup corn-meal 1 Yz cups milk

1 tablespoon sugar 2 cups flour

1 teaspoon salt 4 teaspoons baking-powder

2 cups boiling water 2 eggs

Put the meal, sugar, and salt into a mixing-bowl, and pour
over them the boiling water. Let stand until the meal swells,
then add the cold milk. When the mixture is quite cool, stir

QUICK BREADS 121

in the flour and baking-powder, mixing well, and lastly add
the eggs, well beaten. Bake on a hot griddle. The cakes should
be small, well browned and thoroughly cooked; they need a
little longer cooking than wheat griddle-cakes.

FLANNEL CAKES

1 tablespoon shortening 1 teaspoon salt

2 cups flour 4 teaspoons baking-powder

2 cups milk 2 eggs

Rub the shortening into the flour, and add the salt and bak-
ing-powder. Beat the yolks of the eggs light, add the milk
to them and beat well. Add the liquid to the flour mixture,
stirring until quite smooth. Beat the whites light, add them
to the batter, and bake on a hot greased griddle.

FRENCH OR JELLY PANCAKES

3 eggs 1 cup milk

1 teaspoon sugar Yz cup flour

Yz teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon shortening

Separate the yolks and whites of the eggs. To the beaten
yolks add the sugar, salt and one-half cup of milk. Stir in
the sifted flour, the other half cup of milk, the melted shorten-
ing, then fold in the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs. When
eggs are high, two eggs and a half teaspoon of baking-powder
may be used.

Bake on a hot griddle, making the cakes slightly larger than
usual. Spread each cake with tart fruit jelly and roll while hot*
Place all on a platter, side by side, with the lapped edge of the
roll touching the bottom of the platter to keep the cake from
spreading. Dredge with sugar and, if desired, burn lines on the
sugared surface with a red hot wire toaster. This gives an
attractive appearance and a slight flavor of burnt sugar.

APPLE FLAPJACKS

1 tablespoon shortening 1 teaspoon baking-powder

1 tablespoon sugar 1 cup apples, chopped fine

2 eggs Cinnamon
1/4 cups flour Milk

Cream the shortening and sugar, add the beaten eggs, the
flour sifted with the baking-powder and cinnamon, and the

122

chopped apples. Then gradually add milk to make a medium
batter. Bake on a griddle as for ordinary pancakes and serve
in an overlapping row around a platter of pork chops, or serve
separately with roast pork, either hot or cold. Cooked apples
or a dry apple sauce may be used with batter in the same way.

POTATO PANCAKES

2 cups grated potato Salt

1 ^ss

Pepper

2 tablespoons flour

Onion-juice

Milk

Scrub and pare the potatoes and grate into cold water to
keep them from discoloring. Drain well and add the egg, well-
beaten, the flour, and sufficient milk to make a stiff batter.
Season with salt, pepper and onion-juice. Cook in a frying-
pan with hot fat to the depth of about one-half inch. A large
spoonful of batter makes a good-sized cake. Cook until well
browned and crisp and serve as a vegetable with meat and
gravy. Especially good with a stew.

WAFFLES

1 Yz cups flour 1 cup milk
Yz teaspoon salt 2 eggs

3 teaspoons baking-powder 1 tablespoon shortening

Mix the flour, salt and baking-powder, add the milk grad-
ually, then the eggs, beaten until very light, and the melted
shortening. Be sure that both sides of the waffle-iron are hot
and that it is well greased. After baking each waffle, let the
iron heat a minute before putting in batter for the next.

CREAM WAFFLES

2 eggs 1 tablespoon corn-meal
2 cups sour cream 1 teaspoon soda

2 cups flour Yz teaspoon salt

Beat whites and yolks of the eggs separately. Mix with the
beaten yolks the cream, flour, corn-meal, soda and salt, and
finally the egg-whites, beaten until stiff. Bake at once on a
hot waffle-iron.

APPLE-FILLED FLAPJACKS OR
WAFFLES HOT OFF THE GRID-
DLE WILL GET EVERYBODY UP
PROMPTLY

m^'k

iKE SEVERAL KINDS
■ COFFEE CAKE AT
HESAMETIME.SUCH
AS THESE STREUSEL.
CHERRY AND FROST-
ED. POPOVER BATTER
IHOULD HAVE A
*^ARM HEARTED RE-
EPTION BY SIZZLING
HOT BUTTERED PANS

oRiiiiimFs

--Wiililour Institute

QUICK BREADS 123

BUTTERMILK WAFFLES

1 cup corn-meal 1 cup wheat flour

1 /4 cups water % teaspoon soda

1 teaspoon salt Yz cup sweet milk

1 tablespoon shortening Buttermilk

2 eggs

Cook the meal, water, salt, and shortening together for ten
minutes, stirring constantly. Beat the yolks and whites of
the eg^s separately until very light. When the mush is cool,
add the yolks. Sift together the flour and soda? and add to
the mush, alternating with the sweet milk. Fold in the egg-
whites, and finally add buttermilk to make a pour batter.
Bake in a hot waffle-iron. This mixture is improved if it stands
for a short time before the waffles are baked.

BAKING POWDER MUFFINS

2 cups flour 1 cup milk

Yz teaspoon salt 1 egg

1 tablespoon sugar 2 tablespoons melted short-

4 teaspoons baking-powder ening

Mix and sift the flour, salt, sugar and baking-powder. Add
the milk gradually^ the well-beaten t^g and melted fat. Pour
into well-greased muffln-tins, filling the tins two-thirds full.
Bake in a hot oven (400° -42 5° F.) from twenty to twenty-
five minutes.

GRAHAM MUFFINS

2 cups graham flour % teaspoon soda

2 tablespoons sugar 1 Y2 cups sour milk

Yz teaspoon salt Y2 tablespoon shortening

1 Qgg 1 teaspoon baking powder

Sift the flour with the other dry ingredients, and turn the
bran back into it. Add the milk gradually^ the well-beaten
t%g^ and the melted shortening. Fill well-greased muffln-tins
about two-thirds full and bake in a hot oven (400°-425° F.)
from twenty to twenty-five minutes.

124

CORN-MEAL MUFFINS

1 cup corn-meal 1 cup milk

1 cup flour 1 egg

Yz teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons shortening

4 teaspoons baking-powder

Mix and sift the corn-meal, flour, salt and baking-powder.
Add the milk gradually, then the well-beaten q^^, and melted
fat. Bake in well-greased mufiin-pans in a hot oven (400°-
425° F.).

JELLY CORN MUFFINS

Use the recipe for corn-meal muffins. Fill greased muffin-
tins one-fourth full, put a teaspoon of jelly on the top of the
batter in each cup, cover the jelly with more batter and bake
in a hot oven (400° -42 5° F.).

CORN MUFFINS WITH DATES

1 cup white corn-meal 1 cup flour

2 tablespoons brown sugar 4 teaspoons baking-powder

1 teaspoon salt 1 c^g

2 tablespoons shortening Yz cup chopped dates
IY4 cups milk

Mix the corn-meal, sugar, salt and melted shortening. Scald
the milk, pour it over the mixture, and let it stand until the
meal swells. When cool, add the flour sifted with the baking-
powder, the well-beaten egg and the dates. Beat thoroughly,
and bake in greased muffin-tins in a hot oven (400° -42 5° F.).

CORN-MEAL ROLLS

IY4 cups bread flour Y3 cup milk

Y4 cup corn-meal 1 tablespoon sugar

3 teaspoons baking-powder 2 tablespoons shortening
1 teaspoon salt 1 egg

Mix and sift dry ingredients and cut in the fat. Beat the
egg and add it to the milk. Combine the liquid with the dry
ingredients. Knead slightly, roll out and shape as Parker House
rolls. Bake in a hot oven (400 ° -42 5 ° F.) for twenty to twenty-
five minutes.

QUICK BREADS 125

RICE MUFFINS

54 cup sugar 1 cup milk

y^ cup boiled rice 5 teaspoons baking-powder

1 tg^ 254 cups flour

2 tablespoons shortening 1 teaspoon salt

Mix sugar, boiled rice, egg, melted shortening and milk. Sift
baking-powder, salt, and flour together, and add. Bake in
greased muflfin-pans in a hot oven (400° -42 5° F.) for thirty
minutes.

RAISIN BRAN MUFFINS

1 cup bran 1 tablespoon melted short-

^ cup flour ening

4 teaspoons baking-powder Yz cup seeded raisins

Yz teaspoon salt I/2 cup milk

1 Y2 tablespoons molasses 1 Qgg

Mix and sift the flour, baking-powder and salt, stir in the
bran, add the molasses, the melted fat, raisins and the milk
gradually. Then add the well-beaten Qgg and bake in muffin-
tins in a hot oven (400° -42 5° F.) for thirty minutes.

BAKING POWDER BISCUIT

2 cups flour 2 tablespoons shortening

4 teaspoons baking-powder ^ cup liquid (all milk or

1 teaspoon salt half milk and half water)

Mix dry ingredients and sift twice. Work in shortening
with tips of the fingers, or cut in with two knives. Add the
liquid gradually, mixing with a knife to a soft dough. Owing
to differences in flours, it is not always possible to determine the
exact amount of liquid. Toss on a floured board, pat and
roll lightly to one-half inch in thickness. Shape with a biscuit-
cutter. Bake in hot oven (450° -460° F.) twelve to fifteen
minutes.

Emergency Biscuit — ^Use the recipe for baking-powder
biscuit, using more liquid to make the dough soft enough to
drop from the spoon. The amount of the liquid in this recipe^
in most cases, will be just half the amount of flour (two cups
of flour to one cup liquid). Drop the biscuit on to a wefl-
greased pan^ or into greased muflSn-tins. Bake in a hot oven
(450°-460° F.).

QUICK NUT BREAD, DATE-BRAN BREAD,
HONEY SANDWICH BREAD AND
PRUNE-RYE BREAD, NOT TO MENTION
THE EVER POPULAR GINGERBREAD AND
CORN BREADS, WILL FIND THEIR
PLACES AT YOUR TABLE

WHILE MARMALADE ESCORTS SCONES
ON THEIR SHORT LIFE, SALLY LUNN
IS TURNED OUT OF ITS PAN TO FACE
A HUNGRY WORLD
%-Wheat Flour Institute

126

Baking Powder Biscuit Pie Crust — This is sometimes used
to top a meat pie or a deep dish fruit pie where a rich crust is
not desired. Follow directions for baking-powder bisctiit, roll-
ing the crust to about one-fourth inch thick, or drop it as for
emergency biscuit, leaving a small opening in the middle for
the escape of steam.

Pecan Rolls — Spread biscuit dough with shortening, brown
sugar and pecans. Roll and cut into 1-inch slices. Bake in skillet,
muflSn tins or on cookie sheet with sugar-nut mixture instead of
fruit as for Upside-Down Cakes. See page 476.

DATE BISCUITS

Add one-half cup dates, stoned and quartered, to the recipe
for baking-powder biscuits.

SODA BISCUIT

2 cups flour 1 teaspoon salt

Yz teaspoon soda 2 tablespoons shortening

1 cup thick sour milk

Follow directions for baking-powder biscuit. The dough
should be stiffer than for baking-powder biscuit.

SCONES

2 cups flour 4 tablespoons shortening
4 teaspoons baking-powder ^ cup milk

1 teaspoon salt

Mix and sift the flour, baking-powder and salt, and chop in
the shortening. Add sufficient milk to make a soft dough.
Toss on a floured board and roll into a sheet one-half inch thick.
Shape with a small round cookie-cutter. Bake on a griddle,
turning so that both sides are cooked to a delicate brown. Lay
a napkin on a plate, arrange the scones on it and fold the corners
of the napkin over them. Split and butter while hot.

SALLY LUNN

Yz cup shortening 2 cups flour

54 cup sugar 1 cup milk

4 teaspoons baking-powder 1 egg

Cream the shortening with the sugar. Mix and sift together
the flour and baking-powder and add to the creamed mixture,

QUICK BREADS 127

akernating with the milk. Add the beaten egg and bake in a
loaf or in mufiin-pans, in a moderate oven (3 50° -400° F.).
When fresh huckleberries are in season, one cup stirred in
just before baking will be an agreeable addition.

SOUTHERN BEATEN BISCUIT

2 cups flour Yi cup shortening

1 teaspoon salt Milk and water

Sift the flour with the salt. "With the tips of fingers work
in shortening and moisten to a stiff dough with equal quantities
of milk and water mixed. Place on floured board and beat
with rolling-pin for at least one-half hour, folding the dough
every few minutes. Roll to one-third inch thick, shape with
a biscuit-cutter about two inches in diameter, prick with fork
and place on greased baking-sheet or inverted dripping-pan.
Bake twenty minutes in hot oven (400° -42 5° F.). They
should be light, of even grain, and should crack at the edges
like crackers.

SPOON CORN BREAD

2 cups water 1 tablespoon shortening
1 cup white corn-meal 1 teaspoon salt

1 cup milk 2 eggs

Mix the water and corn-meal and bring slowly to the boil-
ing-point. Cook five minutes. Add the milk, shortening, salt
and well-beaten eggs. Beat thoroughly and bake in a well-
greased pan for twenty-five minutes at 400° F. Serve from the
same dish with a spoon.

SOUTHERN SPOON BREAD

^ cup of fat and cracklings Yz teaspoon salt

from pork, beef, or chicken 1 cup corn-meal

fat 2 eggs

3 cups boiling water

Add fat and cracklings to the water, and when boiling
sprinkle in the salt and corn-meal, stirring constantly. Cook
in a double boiler one hour, cool, and add the well-beaten eggs.
Turn into a greased baking-dish and bake in a moderate oven
(350° F.) three-fourths of an hour.

128

NORTHERN JOHNNY CAKE

2 cups corn-meal 1 Yz teaspoons salt

2 cups sour milk 2 tggs

2 tablespoons shortening 1 teaspoon soda

2 tablespoons sugar, white or 1 tablespoon cold water
brown

Cook together the meal, milk, shortening, sugar and salt in
a double boiler for about twenty minutes. Allow the mixture
to cool, then add the well-beaten eggs and the soda dissolved
in the water. Bake in a shallow iron or granite pan for about
thirty minutes at 400° F.

In case there is not time to cook and cool the meal, the fol-
lowing method of mixing may be used. Mix and sift together
the meal, sugar, salt and soda, add the sour milk gradually, then
the well-beaten eggs and the melted fat. Bread made by this
method does not have as good texture as that made by the first
method.

NEW ENGLAND CORN CAKE

1 cup corn- meal 1 egg

1 cup white flour 1 cup milk

3 teaspoons baking-powder 2 tablespoons melted short-

2 tablespoons sirup ening

Mix and sift the dry ingredients. Beat the egg light, add
the milk, shortening and sirup. Stir into the dry mixture and
beat well. Pour into a well-greased, shallow pan and bake
at 400° F, twenty-five to thirty minutes.

SOUTHERN CORN BREAD

1 cup sour milk Yz teaspoon salt

Yz teaspoon soda dissolved in IY2 cups corn-meal

1 teaspoon water White of one egg beaten stiff

1 egg-yolk and added last

Mix in the order given and bake in muflfin-tins or in a shallow
pan in a moderate to hot oven (400° -42 5° F.) for twenty
minutes.

To be real Southern corn-bread, this should be made of white
corn-meal made from the whole grain.

QUICK BREADS 129

HONEY SANDWICH BREAD

Yz cup bran Yz teaspoon salt

1 cup graham flour 1 cup milk

1 cup white flour ^ cup honey

4 teaspoons baking-powder Yz cup chopped walnuts

1 ^%?>
Mix and sift the dry ingredients together. Add the nuts,

mix, and add milk, honey and beaten q%^. Beat thoroughly.

Pour into a greased oblong bread -pan and bake one hour at

400° R

BOSTON BROWN BREAD

1 cup corn-meal 1 teaspoon salt

1 cup rye flour ^ cup molasses

1 cup graham flour 2 cups sour milk or
Y^ tablespoon soda 1^ cups sweet milk

Mix and sift the dry ingredients. Mix the molasses and milk
and add to the dry ingredients. Beat thoroughly and turn into
well-greased molds, filling each mold about two-thirds full.
Cover and steam three hours. Remove the covers and bake the
bread (375° F.) long enough to dry it off.

RAISIN BREAD

2 cups corn-meal 1 Y2 cups sour milk
1 cup Graham flour 1 t%^

1 teaspoon salt Y^ cup molasses

Y2 teaspoon soda 3 tablespoons baking-powder

1 cup raisins

Mix and sift the dry ingredients, add the raisins and toss
lightly together. Add the other ingredients. Mix thoroughly
and steam for two and three-quarters hours.

WHOLE WHEAT SANDWICH

4 cups whole-wheat flour 8 teaspoons baking-powder

Yi cup sugar % cup seedless raisins

1 t%% Y2 cup chopped nuts

2 cups milk 2 teaspoons salt

Mix the dry ingredients, add the nuts and raisins, add the
milk and q^^ and beat thoroughly. Turn into a greased pan.
Let the dough rise for fifteen minutes. Bake one hour in a
moderate oven (350°-400° F.).

130

DATE BRAN BREAD

2 cups bran -/■>, cup dates cut in small

2 cups white flour pieces

1 teaspoon salt XYz cups milk

3 tablespoons sugar 1 egg

4 teaspoons baking-powder 2 tablespoons melted short-

ening

Sift the dry ingredients together, add the dates, toss lightly-
together and add the milk. Mix well and add beaten q^% and
melted fat. Turn into a greased pan or mold and cover with
oiled paper. Steam for three hours.

QUICK NUT BREAD

2 cups bread flour 1 whole t%%

Yi cup sugar Yolk 1 t^g

4 teaspoons baking-powder 1 cup milk

1 teaspoon salt Yz cup finely chopped walnut

5 tablespoons shortening or other meats

Mix and sift flour, sugar, baking-powder and salt. Work in
shortening as for biscuit; then add q^^ and egg-yolk well-
beaten, milk and chopped nut meats. Beat thoroughly and turn
into a buttered bread pan. Let stand twenty minutes; then
bake at 400° F. forty to fifty minutes. This is a delicious bread
for sandwiches.

PRUNE RYE BREAD

2 cups sifted rye flour % cup sugar

2 cups sifted wheat flour 1 tgg, slightly beaten

6 teaspoons baking powder 1% cups milk

11/^ teaspoons salt 1 cup cooked prunes,

chopped

Sift together dry ingredients. Combine egg and milk, and
add to flour mixture, stirring only until well mixed; stir in
prunes. Turn into greased loaf pans and bake in moderate oven
(350° F.) about 1 hour. Yield: 2 loaves, 6x3 inches, or 1
sandwich loaf, 11x3x3 inches.

SANDWICHES

AN encyclopedia published about 1900 defines a sandwich
as "an article of food consisting of a slice of meat, fish,
fowl or other food placed between two slices of bread, which
may be plain or buttered." No such simple definition could
be given today, for from these simple beginnings the sandwich
has developed in all directions, and has adapted itself to such
varied needs that it ranges from a fragile morsel served with
afternoon tea to an elaborate combination of toast, meat, let-
tuce, tomato, sauce, and any number of other things which
combine to make it a complete and satisfying meal.

Even the requirement of two slices of bread with something
between them is no longer in force. "Open-faced" sandwiches
offer almost unlimited opportunity for variety in both cold
and hot meals. In these the slices of bread or toast are laid
side by side. Sometimes, usually in hot meat sandwiches, both
slices are covered with beef or chicken, or whatever gives the
characteristic flavor, and the whole is covered with gravy.
Often, especially in cold sandwiches, one slice holds its chicken
or tomato or crab meat, while its companion is covered with
cole slaw and dill pickles or a lettuce leaf holding a spoonful
of mayonnaise. The possibilities are endless, and the sug-
gestions given here can be combined and adapted to almost any
requirement where a sandwich can be called into service.

Serving Sandwiches

Garnishes of fine parsley, cress, celery plumes, stuffed or ripe
olives, or slices of lemon or pickle are effective on the serving-
dish. Barberries and leaves, fresh nasturtium leaves and
blossoms, or something to indicate the kind of sandwich may
be used as a garnish.

Making and Keeping Sandwiches

The bread for flat sandwiches should be a day old because
it can be cut more easily than fresh bread. For rolled sand-
wiches fresh bread should be used. Bread baked in special
tins which provide slices that are perfect squares or circles is

131

132

economical when the crusts are to be cut off, but any loaf of
comparatively fine grain may be used.

The Bread

All Sorts of Breads are made into sandwiches — white,
brown, rye, graham, whole-wheat, raisin, date, nut, etc. Some-
times two or more kinds are used together. Long narrow rolls
are attractive when sliced lengthwise, buttered and filled. For
picnics, where a substantial filling is desirable, the crumb of the
roll may be removed and the hollow filled with sandwich ma-
terial. Thin salt wafers and crackers are often used instead of
bread for paste sandwiches.

For Fancy Sandwiches, to be used for tea or receptions,-
or as an appetizer at the beginning of the meal, or to be served
with the salad, the bread should be cut into slices as thin as
possible and the crusts should be removed. Use a sharp knife,
so that there will be no ragged edges.

Picnic and Lunch-Box Sandwiches are cut somewhat
thicker than fancy sandwiches, and the crusts are generally
left on.

Butter and Filling

The filling and butter for sandwiches should be increased m
proportion to the thickness of the slice of bread.

Preparing the Butter — The butter should be thoroughly
creamed before it is used or it will not spread evenly over the
bread. To cream butter, place it in a warm bowl and mash
and beat it until it is soft. It will then spread well even on
fresh bread. Sandwich butters are often made by creaming
one cup of butter with one-half cup of cream. One-half cup
of butter, creamed, will spread a two-pound sandwich loaf
cutting forty to forty-five slices.

Relishes such as mustard, salt, grated horseradish, chopped
parsley, chives and curry may be added to creamed butter for
use in sandwiches of meat, tomato, game, chicken^ fish, cheese
or eggs.

> Spreading Butter and Filling — ^A poorly buttered sand-
wich is very unpalatable. Spread the butter to the very edges
of the slices^ on the sides that are to be put together, being
careful, however, not to let the butter spread over the edges
So that it is untidy. If the slices need not be fitted together,
it is often easier to spread the bread before cutting it from the

SANDWICHES 133

loaf. A pliable knife or small spatula is a help in spreading
butter or filling.

Spread the filling on the buttered surface of one slice only
of each sandwich. Have the filling come to the edge of the
sandwich, if possible.

When mayonnaise is used, not combined with a filling, as in
mayonnaise and lettuce sandwiches, it is more evenly distributed
if it is spread on one of the slices of bread and the lettuce leaf
placed upon it.

Shaping the Sandwiches

Sandwiches may be cut with a knife into triangles, oblongs
and similar outlines, or shaped with cutters into hearts, circles,
crescents or any preferred design. When sandwiches are shaped
with these fancy cutters, the bread should be shaped before it
is spread, to avoid waste of butter and filling. Care must be
taken afterward, however^ not to spoil the shape while spread-
ing. Heart,^ club, spade and diamond shapes are popular for
card parties. Heart shapes are attractive for valentine and an-
nouncement parties and for showers. Strips, triangles, circles,
crescents and rolled and folded sandwiches are used for teas.

Rolled Sandwiches — Cut the crusts from a fresh loaf of
bread (or if a stale loaf of bread is used, cut off the crusts and
wrap for an hour in a cloth wrung from cold water) . Spread
a thin layer of butter on one end of the loaf and then cut from
it as thin a slice as possible. If a filling is used, spread it on the
buttered slice. Roll this slice with the spread side inward and
lay it on a napkin, with the edge of the slice downward. When
all the sandwiches have been prepared, draw the napkin firmly
around the rolls and put them in a cold place until needed. The
butter will harden and hold the rolls together.

Time Savers in Sandwich Making

In making sandwiches in quantity, route the work so that
there will be no waste motions. Have a large enough space
for (1) cutting the bread; (2) spreading the slices with butter
and filling; (3) shaping and (4) wrapping the sandwiches.

Keeping Sandwiches

Sandwiches are best prepared just before serving, especially
if the filling is of a kind that will become limp or soak into the

134

bread. When it is necessary to make sandwiches several hours
before they are to be used, they may be wrapped in paraffin
paper or a sHghtly dampened cloth or placed in a stone jar.

Filling for Meat and Salad Sandwiches

When sliced meat is used, a sandwich is easier to eat and
generally more palatable if the meat is cut as thin as a knife-
blade with several tiny slices instead of one thick one in each
sandwich. Fancy butters are excellent with sliced meat.

All kinds of potted and minced meats are used between slices
of bread with or without mayonnaise. Salted meat and fish
fillings are improved by lemon- juice, chopped pickles or capers.
Pastes of fresh fish and meat require high seasoning.

All forms of meat may be used with lettuce or cress, between
two slices of buttered bread, with or without salad dressing.
The slices should be pressed together and the crust trimmed, if
desired. Lettuce may be used in large, crisp leaves, or in "rib-
bons," to make the sandwich easier to eat. Where mayonnaise
dressing is used, the sandwiches should be made at the last
moment, and served promptly. Tomatoes and cucumbers with
lettuce and mayonnaise make delicious salad sandwiches.
Filling for Tea Sandwiches

The tea sandwich is seldom made of meat, though such things
as minced chicken, lobster, or crab meat, and sardines beaten
to a paste, are sometimes used for it. The bread is cut very
thin and the fillings may be a bit of lettuce spread with mayon-
naise dressing, chopped olives, nasturtiums, watercress and
similar morsels. An attractive sandwich is made from diminu-
tive Vienna rolls split not quite through and spread with vege-
table filling. Another tea sandwich is made by spreading jelly
or preserves between two salt crackers. If the crackers are
spread with a thin film of butter and crisped quickly in a hot
oven, this form of sandwich is really worth eating. Almond
sandwiches of all varieties are delicious for the tea-table.

Filling for Sweet Sandwiches

Preserves of all kinds, drained from their sirup, marmalade,-
jam, jelly, crystallized and candied fruits are used for sweet
sandwiches with graham or salt wafers, as well as with bread or
sponge cake. The crystallized fruits may be sliced thin and

SANDWICHES 135

dipped in cream, chopped fine, moistened in orange- juice, and
spread between bread or lady-fingers.

Scraped or grated maple sugar mixed with chopped nuts
is used with brown bread. Ice-cream is cut in slices and put
between wafers or layers of sponge cake.

Tiny tea biscuits make an excellent foundation for sweet
sandwiches. They are split and buttered while hot and filled
with honey and almonds, cream cheese and jam, or chopped
nuts and marmalade. They are best served warm.

Filling for Nut Sandwiches

Pignolias or pine nuts, butternuts, walnuts, hickory nuts,
almonds and pecans may all be put through a meat-chopper,
mixed, a very little salt added, and spread over thin, buttered
slices of brown or white bread. Or, to the ground nuts may be
added a little salt and paprika and either salad oil or creamed
butter to make a smooth paste.

The salty taste of peanut butter is good with raisin bread.
Peanuts may be rubbed to a paste with creamed butter and a
layer of chopped preserved ginger added.

Butternuts, walnuts, hickory nuts, almonds, or pecans may
be used in equal parts, ground fine, with cream cheese moistened
with sweet thick cream and seasoned with salt. Grated Ameri-
can cheese may be used instead of cream cheese and melted
butter instead of cream.

PETITE MARMITE

Yeast bouillon, on the market as cubes or paste, makes an
excellent spread for sandwiches, hors d'oeuvres and appetizers.
It may be used alone or mixed with butter or other pastes. Its
strong flavor makes it especially desirable with milder flavored
fillings.

PREPARED BUTTERS FOR SANDWICHES

Anchovy Butter

Yolks of 4 hard-cooked eggs 14 ^P butter

4 boned anchovies Paprika

Rub the yolks of the eggs to a smooth paste with the an-
chovies and butter and add paprika to taste.

136

Ham Butter

Yz cup cooked ham Yolks of 2 hard-cooked eggs

Yz cup butter Pepper

Grind the ham and pound smooth with the butter and the
yolks of the eggs and season with pepper.

Shrimp Butter

1 cup cooked shrimps 1 cup butter

Salt About y^ cup tarragon vine-

54 teaspoon cayenne gar or lemon- juice

Pound the shrimps in a mortar with salt and cayenne. Add
the butter and moisten the mixture with the tarragon vinegar
or lemon-juice.

Sandwiches with Nut Fillings
PEANUT BUTTER, FIG AND RAISIN SANDWICHES

54 cup figs Yz teaspoon salt

54 cup raisins Yz cup peanut butter

2 tablespoons light corn-sirup 2 tablespoons lemon-juice

Wash figs and raisins and put through a food-chopper. Add
salt, peanut butter, lemon- juice and corn-sirup, and mix well.
Use between thin, buttered slices of bread.

PEANUT BUTTER AND ORANGE MARMALADE
SANDWICHES

Yz cup peanut butter Y2 cup orange marmalade

Ya cup cream

Mix peanut butter with cream or milk until it is smooth
and light in color. Spread generously on thin slices of bread,
and add a layer of orange marmalade. The marmalade may be
mixed with the peanut butter, if preferred.

PEANUT BUTTER AND BANANA SANDWICHES

54 cup peanut butter 54 cup banana pulp or sliced

Ya cup cream or hot water bananas

Lemon-juice

Mix the peanut butter with the cream until it is smooth and
light in color, then combine with the banana pulp and a little

SANDWICHES 137

lemon-juice and use between thin, buttered slices of bread.
Or place slices of banana over layer of peanut butter on breadt

PEANUT BUTTER AND PICKLE SANDWICHES

Yz cup peanut butter 54 cup cream or hot water

Yz cup chopped pickle

Cream peanut butter and water together and add chopped
pickle. Use between thin, buttered slices of bread.

PEANUT BUTTER AND ONION SANDWICHES

1 cup peanut butter 1 small Bermuda or

54 cup mayonnaise Spanish onion

Beat peanut butter, add mayonnaise and spread sandwiches.
Slice onion in very thin slices and put a layer of these over
mixture on bread.

ALMOND SANDWICHES

No. 1

1 54 cups almonds 3 tablespoons lemon-juice

Yz teaspoon salt

Chop the almonds fine, mix with the salt and lemon- juice
and use with thin slices of bread, buttered. Cut into small
ovals, pressing a blanched almond in the center of each sand-
wich.

No. 2

Use the same quantities as for No. 1. Toast the almonds a
light brown and grate them. Form into a paste with the lemon-
juiccj add the salt and spread over the bread.

No. 3

54 cup almonds % cup shredded celery

54 cup mayonnaise

Chop the almonds fine and mix them with the celery. Spread
between thin, buttered slices of bread. Sandwiches filled with
this mixture are an excellent accompaniment to salads or cold

138

meats. When served with meats the celery and almonds may-
be moistened with a few spoonfuls of mayonnaise.

MARRON SANDWICHES

Grind marrons glaces (candied French chestnuts) fine,
spread on rounds of buttered bread and cover with rounds of
bread from which the centers have been cut. Fill the centers
with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored, and decorate with
blanched and chopped pistachio nuts or tiny candied violets.

Sandwiches with Cheese or Egg Fillings

CHEESE SANDWICHES

No. 1

Place thin slices of American, Swiss or any preferred mild or
snappy cheese between two slices of buttered bread. Add a
dash of mustard if desired.

No. 2

Grate sapsago and Parmesan cheese and sprinkle thickly
over a slice of buttered bread. Then dust with a mild red
pepper and add another slice of buttered bread.

No. 3

Yolks of 3, hard-cooked eggs Paprika Salt

2 tablespoons salad oil 1 tablespoon vinegar

Mustard 1 cup grated cheese

Rub smooth the yolks of the hard-cooked eggs. Add the
oil, stirring it in very slowly with a fork, and mix thoroughly
with a little mustard, paprika, salt and the vinegar. Add the
grated cheese and use between thin buttered slices of white or
brown bread.

No. 4

Y2 pound American full cream % cup cream

cheese, grated Yz teaspoon dry mustard

2 tablespoons melted butter Paprika Salt

Mix all the ingredients thoroughly and use between thin
buttered slices of bread. This filling will keep indefinitely in
closed jars in the refrigerator.

SANDWICHES 139

COTTAGE CHEESE SANDWICHES

1% cups cottage cheese Yn teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons thick cream

Cut slices of brown bread one-half inch thick, not removing
the crusts. Rub the cheese to a smooth paste, and add slowly,
beating all the while, the melted butter, the salt and the thick
cream. Spread each slice of bread thickly with this mixture.
Cover with a very thin slice of white bread and on top of this
put a thin layer of the cheese mixture. Cover with a slice of
brown bread and trim into shape.

CHEESE AND ANCHOVY SANDWICHES

1 cup cream cheese or Y^ cup anchovy paste

10 tablespoons grated Par- Pinch of mustard (may be
mesan cheese omitted)

Mix the anchovy paste with the cheese and add mustard if
desired. Spread between slices of buttered bread or toast.

CHEESE AND BANANA SANDWICHES

No. 1

1 cup cream cheese 2 bananas

54 cup cream ^4 cup mayonnaise

Place ice-cold bananas, sliced and covered with mayonnaise,
between buttered slices of white bread spread with cream
cheese softened with the cream.

No. '2

Make a pulp of the bananas and mix with the softened cheese.

HARLEQUIN SANDWICHES WITH CHEESE

FILLING

Cut half-inch slices of both brown and white bread. Spread
each slice with butter and cream cheese and place four slices
together, alternating the brown bread with the white. Press
together and slice through the four layers, cutting them into as
thin slices as possible without allowing the slices to break.
When neatly done, the effect of the alternate layers of dark
and light is very good.

?jis

FOR THE PIRATE'S TREASURE
CHEST RETURN THIN SAND-
WICHES TO THE LOAF FROM
WHICH THEY CAME OR SLICE
YOUR LOAF LATERALLY, FILL
WITH VARIOUS PASTES AND
FROST WITH CREAM CHEESE
TO YOUR TASTE

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CHEESE AND ORANGE MARMALADE
SANDWICHES

Yz cup cream cheese Yz cup orange marmalade

54 cup cream

Spread half the slices of buttered bread with the cheese,
softened with the cream, and seasoned with salt if desired,
and spread the other slices with orange marmalade. Press the
slices together.

CHEESE COMBINATION SANDWICHES

1 cup cream cheese or cottage Y^ cup chopped olives or

cheese Ya cup chopped nuts or

Ya cup mayonnaise or Ya cup chopped pimientos

Mix the cheese with the mayonnaise, chopped olives, nuts, or
pimientos, and use between very thin slices of brown or rye
bread, lightly buttered.

CHEESE AND ONION SANDWICHES

1 cup cream cheese Lettuce leaves

Ya cup chopped Bermuda Ya cup mayonnaise

onion

Mix the cheese with the onion. Use with mayonnaise and a
crisp lettuce leaf between slices of buttered bread.

ROQUEFORT CHEESE SANDWICHES

Yz cup Roquefort cheese 2 tablespoons butter

Salad oil Whole-wheat bread

To the cheese, add creamed butter and enough salad oil to
make a paste. Use a thin layer between buttered slices of
whole-wheat bread.

CHEESE MAYONNAISE SANDWICHES

2 hard-cooked egg-yolks Y2 teaspoon pepper

1 tablespoon melted butter Y2 teaspoon mustard

Y3 pound cheese 1 tablespoon vinegar

Yz teaspoon salt

Rub the egg-yolks and butter together until they make a
smooth paste, then add the grated cheese, salt, pepper and

SANDWICHES 141

mustard, mixing thoroughly. Stir in the vinegar and spread
between buttered sHces of bread, crackers or pieces of oat-cake.

RUSSIAN SANDWICHES

Yz cup cream cheese % cup chopped pimiento

y^ cup chopped olives ^ cup mayonnaise

Lettuce leaves Boston brown bread

Spread the cream cheese on thin slices of Boston brown bread.
Spread an equal number of buttered slices with chopped olives
and pimientos mixed with mayonnaise dressing. Press together
in pairs with a crisp lettuce leaf between.

EGG SANDWICHES

No. 1

Hard-cooked eggs Salt Paprika

Pepper Capers or pickles if desired

Slice the eggs and lay the slices between thin buttered slices
of bread. Season to taste with salt, pepper and paprika and
add a layer of chopped capers or pickles if desired. These are
good for lunches for traveling or picnics.

No. 2

1 cup chopped, hard-cooked Chopped capers or pickles

t^^ y^ cup mayonnaise

Mix the chopped Qgg with the mayonnaise and add salt,
pepper and chopped pickles or capers to taste. Use between
thin buttered slices of bread.

Sandwiches with Meat and Poultry Fillings

CHICKEN SANDWICHES

No. 1

1 cup cooked chicken me?t, ^ cup mayonnaise

white or dark

Chop the chicken meat very fine, mix with the mayonnaise,
and spread thin slices of bread, buttered or unbuttered, with
the paste.

142

No. 2

2 egg-yolks 1 cup minced, cooked chicken

1 teaspoon melted butter Salt Pepper

1 teaspoon lemon-juice 1 teaspoon stock

Cook the eggs thirty to forty-five minutes, in water just be-
low boiling-point, take out the yolks, and mash as fine as pos-
sible. Add to these the melted butter and lemon- juice, the
minced chicken, salt, pepper and stock. Mix all well together.
A paste will be the result and with this very delicate sandwiches
may be made.

No. 3

1 cup cooked white meat of 6 tablespoons thick cream

chicken Yz teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon gelatin Dash of paprika

1 tablespoon cold water

Chop the chicken very fine and pound to a paste, adding salt
and a dash of red pepper. Soak the gelatin in the cold water
for fifteen minutes, and add the thick cream. Dissolve the
gelatin over boiling water, beat it slowly into the chicken
and add salt and paprika. Set aside to cool, smoothing into an
even mass. When cool, divide into squares, cut these squares
into very thin slices and arrange on thin buttered slices of bread.
Cut into fancy shapes, removing the crusts.

No. 4

^ cup cooked chicken meat |^ cup chopped almonds

1/4 cup chopped stuffed olives ^ cup mayonnaise

Cut the chicken meat into small bits and add the almonds and
olives. Moisten with mayonnaise and spread on thin, buttered
slices of bread.

CHICKEN, HAM AND CELERY SANDWICHES

1 cup cooked chicken meat 54 cup mayonnaise

Yz cup celery 54 cup cooked ham

1 tablespoon green pepper

Mince the chicken, ham, celery and green peppers. Mix
with the mayonnaise and spread on buttered bread.

SANDWICHES 143

CHICKEN AND DILL PICKLE SANDWICHES

Between buttered slices of white bread, use thin slices of
white meat of roasted chicken and thin sHces of dill pickle.
Cut into triangles and serve on lettuce leaves.

CHICKEN LIVER SANDWICHES

1 cup cooked chicken livers 1 tablespoon lemon-juice

2 tablespoons chopped crisp 2 tablespoons sliced truffles
bacon 4 drops tabasco sauce

Salt Pepper 2 stalks celery, minced

Mash the chicken livers, add the chopped bacon, salt, pepper,
tabasco sauce, lemon-juice and sliced truffles. Use between
slices of bread spread with creamed butter mixed with minced
celery.

CHICKEN AND TONGUE SANDWICHES

1 pint minced cold boiled Black pepper

chicken and tongue, mixed 1 teaspoon Worcestershire
54 cup melted butter sauce

1 egg-yolk

To cold boiled tongue and chicken add the melted butter,
the yolk of the egg, beaten, a little black pepper, and the
Worcestershire sauce. Spread this over buttered bread.

PATE DE FOIE GRAS SANDWICHES

No. 1

Moisten pate de foie gras with cream to make a thin paste.
Spread on lettuce leaves on white buttered bread and sprinkle
with French dressing.

No. 2

1 tablespoon pate de foie gras 2 tablespoons butter
54 cup boiled chestnuts

Mash the butter and chestnuts to a paste, add the pate de foie
gras and mix well. Spread very thin on slices of buttered bread.

144

BEEF SANDWICHES

1 % cups cold roast beef Yz teaspoon Worcestershire

1 teaspoon salt sauce

Yz tablespoon tomato catchup 1 tablespoon melted butter

To minced cold roast beef add the salt, tomato catchup,
Worcestershire sauce and melted butter. Spread on buttered
bread, cover with a second slice, and cut into fancy shapes.

HAM SANDWICHES

No. 1

Slice boiled ham very thin and use several tiny slices between
thin slices of buttered bread, adding a little mustard if desired.

No. 2

1 cup ham 54 teaspoon mustard mixed

1 tablespoon salad oil with ^ teaspoon water to

1 tablespoon lemon-juice a smooth paste

Pepper

Chop the ham fine and season with salad oil, lemon-juice,
a dash of pepper and the mustard. Spread between thin, but-
tered slices of bread.

No. 3

1 hard-cooked t%^ 1 cup boiled ham

1 small spiced cucumber 54 cup mayonnaise

pickle

Chop the hard-cooked 0,%%^ cucumber pickle and boiled ham
and mix well. Moisten with the mayonnaise, season to taste,
and spread between thin slices of buttered bread.

HAM AND ANCHOVY SANDWICHES

1 54 cups chopped ham Few drops tabasco sauce

1 teaspoon onion-juice Anchovy paste

Paprika Creamed butter

Add to the chopped meat, onion-juice, paprika, a few drops
of tabasco sauce and a little anchovy paste mixed with creamed
butter. Use between thin, buttered slices of bread.

SANDWICHES 145

HAM AND TOMATO SANDWICHES

1 cup minced ham ^ cup butter

1 teaspoon parsley Garlic or onion-juice

Cayenne pepper 2 sliced tomatoes

Pinch of mace Mayonnaise

Few drops lemon- juice

To minced ham, add parsley, cayenne, mace, lemon- juice and
creamed butter. Rub the bowl with garlic or add a little onion-
juice. Spread rounds of buttered bread with the mixture and
between each two rounds place a thin slice of ripe tomato spread
with thick mayonnaise.

LIVER AND BACON SANDWICHES

54 cup chopped bacon Vz cup mashed liver

^ cup cream Salt and pepper

Mix chopped bacon and mashed liver, season with peppef
and salt and mix with cream. Spread between slices of but-
tered bread. Decorate the plate with a border of lemon slices
and hard-cooked eggs cut into halves lengthwise, with a sprig
of cress or parsley on each half &%'^,

MUTTON OR LAMB SANDWICHES

1 54 cups cold mutton or lamb 1 teaspoon chopped mint

1 teaspoon salt Dash of pepper

1 tablespoon capers 1 tablespoon lemon-juice

Chop cold mutton or lamb very fine, add salt, capers, chopped
mint, pepper and lemon- juice. Use between thin buttered
slices of whole-wheat bread. Serve on a bed of lettuce leaves.

TONGUE SANDWICHES

54 pound cooked tongue Salt

54 cup mayonnaise or prepared Pepper
mustard Cayenne

Chop the tongue and pound to a paste, or cut into thin
slices and use, with the mayonnaise and seasonings, between thin
buttered slices of bread.

146

VEAL SANDWICHES

lYi cups chopped veal 1 tablespoon lemon- juice

1 teaspoon salt Mustard Pepper

Chop the veal, and season with salt, lemon-juice and a little
pepper and mustard. Spread mixture between thin buttered
slices of bread.

Sandwiches with Fish Fillings

Anchovies, sardines, or freshly boiled fish may be used for
sandwiches. These are better pounded to a paste, with a few
drops of lemon- juice added during the pounding. Fresh white
fish, like cod, may be seasoned with salt and pepper, moistened
with a little mayonnaise or even a plain white sauce, and then
put between two layers of buttered bread.

FLAKED FISH SANDWICHES

1 cup flaked fish % cup thick mayonnaise

2 tablespoons chopped celery 1 tablespoon Worcestershire
2 tablespoons chopped cucum- sauce or catchup, if desired

ber pickles, either sweet or Salt
sour Pepper

Delicious and appetizing sandwich fillings are made by mix-
ing these ingredients. Season to taste with salt and pepper
and spread between thin buttered slices of bread.

ANCHOVY AND OLIVE SANDWICHES

Yz cup mashed anchovies or Yz cup olives

anchovy paste Y4 cup cream or butter

Chop the olives and* mix with the anchovy paste. Add the
butter or cream and use between thin buttered slices of bread.

CAVIAR SANDWICHES

Y2 cup caviar 2 teaspoons lemon-juice

Flavor caviar with lemon-juice and spread thin on lightly
buttered bread. A small quantity of chopped pickled beets may
be added if desired.

SANDWICHES 147

CRAB OR LOBSTER SANDWICHES

154 cups crab or lobster ^ cup French dressing or

meat mayonnaise

Butter thin slices of whole-wheat bread. Cover half of them
thickly with flaked boiled crab meat or diced lobster meat and
add a teaspoon of French dressing or mayonnaise. Cover with
the other buttered slices of bread and cut into fancy shapes.

OYSTER SANDWICHES

Large oysters Pepper

Salt Tabasco sauce

Horseradish Lemon-juice

Worcestershire sauce Cress

Fry the oysters and place two or three between two buttered
slices of brown or white bread. Sprinkle with pepper, salt,
horseradish, lemon-juice, tabasco, Worcestershire or water cress,
according to taste.

SALMON SANDWICHES

1 cup cold boiled or canned % cup mayonnaise

salmon

Mix the salmon with the mayonnaise until a fine even mix-
ture is obtained. Remove the soft crumb from French rolls and
fill the space thus made with the salmon mixture.

SARDINE SANDWICHES

12 large sardines % cup mayonnaise or a little
1 hard-cooked egg Worcestershire sauce, if de-

Pepper desired

Lemon-juice Salt

Shrimp butter, if desired Creamed butter, if desired

Drain the oil from the fish, remove the skins and pound the
fish to a paste with a little salt, pepper and lemon- juice. Use
between thin buttered slices of bread. Shrimp butter may be
mixed with the sardine paste and the flavor may be varied by
the addition of Worcestershire sauce or mayonnaise or both.

148

The mashed yolk of the hard-cooked egg and three parts of
creamed butter to one of the sardine mixture makes a de-
Hcious sandwich fiUing.

SHAD ROE SANDWICHES

1 shad roe 3 drops tabasco sauce

Yolks of 3 hard-cooked eggs 1 teaspoon anchovy paste

Butter Salt
Yz teaspoon paprika

Cook the roe and mash it together with the yolks of the
hard-cooked eggs. Add an equal amount of creamed butter,
the paprika, tabasco sauce, anchovy paste, and salt to taste.
Spread between thin buttered slices of bread. Slices of lemon,
peeled and salted, may be put between rounds of buttered bread
and passed with the shad roe sandwiches.

Sandwiches with Vegetable Fillings

CUCUMBER SANDWICHES

No. 1

Soak thin slices of cucumber for one hour in good white
vinegar seasoned with salt and pepper. Add one teaspoon of
chopped chives, if desired. Drain the slices and use them
between thin, buttered slices of brown or white bread. Each
sandwich may be the size of a cucumber slice, if daintiness is
desired.

No. 2

Chop a peeled cucumber and mix with mayonnaise. Use
between thin buttered slices of brown or white bread.

ONION SANDWICHES

Pour salted water over thin slices of onion (or chopped
onion) and let it stand for a time to extract the very strong
flavor. Then drain the onion and use between buttered slices
of bread, seasoning with pepper, salt, and a little mustard if
desired.

SANDWICHES 149

PIMIENTO AND ANCHOVY SANDWICHES

y^ cup pimiento 1 tablespoon lemon-juice

Butter 14 cup anchovy paste

Yz teaspoon tabasco sauce Salt

Rub pimientos to a paste with creamed butter and season
with tabasco sauce, lemon- juice, anchovy paste and salt. Spread
between thin buttered slices of whole-wheat bread.

RADISH AND HAM SANDWICHES

Yz cup potted ham Y2 cup sliced radishes

Y4 "^o Y2 cup mayonnaise

Peel and slice radishes, dip them in rich, thick mayonnaise,
and lay on thin slices of bread covered with potted ham.

TOMATO AND LETTUCE SANDWICHES

4 tomatoes Lettuce leaves ^ to ^ cup mayonnaise

Spread thin slices of buttered bread with mayonnaise, cover
with a crisp lettuce leaf and spread with peeled, chilled toma-
toes sliced thin. Cover with a second slice of bread, and cut
into desired shape. Crisp bacon is a pleasing addition.

WATERCRESS SANDWICHES

1 Y4 cups cress 2 tablespoons lemon-juice or

Paprika Y4 cup mayonnaise

Sprinkle cress with salt, paprika, and lemon-juice, or mix
with mayonnaise. Lay between slices of brown bread. •

THE PIE CANAPE

An attractive canape plate may be made by cutting twice
horizontally, through a round loaf of rye bread. The slice
should be % inch thick and free of crust. Spread with soft-
ened butter and mayonnaise dressing. Mark in circles as guides
with increasingly larger articles — a small cookie cutter at
center, a large cutter, a bowl, a small plate, and decorate in

concentric rings. Fill the center with caviar, piling chopped
parsley or egg yellow at very center. Surround with circle o£
cream cheese tinted with vegetable coloring pressed from a
pastry bag. Continue these rings of appetizer paste and
colored cream cheese in accordance with your taste or color
scheme. Use red salmon paste, sardellen paste, anchovy paste,
shrimp paste, etc. When finished, use a very sharp knife to
cut like a pie but do not separate. Serve cold within a few
hours.

SANDWICH LOAF OR CAKE

Slice an uncut loaf of day-old white sandwich bread hori-
zontally, getting 3 or 4 long slices % inch thick. Spread
each slice with creamed butter and stiff mayonnaise, then each
with a different chopped salad or sandwich mixture. Chicken,
shrimp, salmon or tongue salad; deviled egg, sardine, anchovy,
liver or cheese pastes may be used. Stack and cover the top
and sides with soft cream cheese piled like frosting or whipped
cream. Dust with paprika or chopped parsley. Chill and serve
cold within 7 to 10 hours. Photograph on page 139A.

Miscellaneous Sandwiches and Sandwich Fillings

1. Raisins worked into cream cheese.

2. Chopped raisins, figs, dates or prunes, mixed with chopped
nut-meats and moistened with mayonnaise dressing or lemon-
juice.

3. The well- whipped white of an egg mixed with a cup each
of chopped raisins and nut-meats, seasoned with a little salt.

4. Peanut butter moistened with salad dressing and mixed
with raisins, dates, figs or bananas.

5. Equal parts olives, peanut butter, celery, mixed with a
little salad dressing.

6. Peanut butter mixed with chopped dill, sweet or sour
pickles.

7. Cream cheese and chopped stuffed olives.

8. Chopped stuffed olives and chopped nuts, moistened with
salad dressing.

9. Cream cheese and crushed pineapple between very thin
slices of bread.

SANDWICHES 151

10. Tunafish mixed with parsley, lemon-juice, seasoning and
a bit of onion.

11. Cream cheese and chopped nuts.

12. Ground boiled ham and chopped pickles or chopped
peanuts.

13. Cottage cheese and pickles, olives, nuts or pimientos.

14. Currant jam with pounded walnut meats and creamed
butter. Pass with cream cheese. Preserved currants may be
substituted in this combination.

15. Boston brown bread with cream cheese or mayonnaise
mixed with chopped nuts and raisins.

16. Rounds of brown bread spread with chopped olives,
minced lettuce and water cress, tarragon, paprika, parsley and
chives mixed with mayonnaise.

17. Pimientos, cucumbers and onion or chives, minced,
mixed with mayonnaise and spread on buttered entire-wheat
bread.

18. Green pepper, pimiento and olives with mayonnaise.

19. Boston brown bread with minced corned beef seasoned
with mustard and rubbed to a paste.

20. Cream cheese used with chopped parsley, pimientos and
mayonnaise, chopped nuts, sliced sugared bananas, crushed
pineapple, chopped or sliced olives, shredded sliced apples. The
cheese may be rubbed with butter or the creamed butter may
be spread on the bread.

HOT SANDWICHES

The hot sandwich is now frequently used as a supper or
luncheon dish with a salad. It is sometimes served as a break-
fast dish and even a dessert may now be served in sandwich
form, as, for instance^ slices of ice-cream between slices of
sponge cake.

There are several types of hot sandwiches. Some are made
from plain bread and served with hot sauce; in others the
framework of the sandwich is toast, sauted slices of bread,
French-fried toast or fresh slices of bread baked with the sand-
wich-filling; and in still others hot baking-powder biscuit or
crisp toasted crackers are used.

Then besides the regulation kind of sandwich — a filling be-
tween two slices of breadstuff — there is the open-faced kind,
in which the top slice is left oflf and a garnish of cut parsley,

152

pickle, olive or grated cheese is used instead of the covering
slice.

And, lastly, there is a third and novel type of sandwich in
which the outer structure is of meat. This is cut in thin slices,
dipped in fritter batter and fried in fat, and a filling of vege-
tables is placed between the slices.

GRILLED CHEESE SANDWICHES

Between two slices of medium thick bread, lay slices of cheese
cut about one-eighth inch thick. Place in oven until cheese
begins to melt. Then toast on both sides and serve hot. Or
mash a soft cheddar cheese with cream. Spread this as a filling
and toast the sandwich.

CHICKEN CLUB SANDWICHES

(For each sandwich)

3 slices toast Crisped bacon

Mayonnaise Tomato slices or
Vs to y^ breast of chicken onion slices

Lettuce Pickle or olives

For each sandwich remove the crust from three slices of
toasted bread, buttered while hot. Spread the under slice with
a thin layer of mayonnaise dressing. On this lay two small
white lettuce leaves, allowing them to project beyond the edge
of the toast. On the lettuce lay thin slices of breast of chicken
spread with mayonnaise. Cover with a slice of toast, spread
with mayonnaise and cover with slices of crisp bacon. A slice
of tomato or onion may be placed over the bacon. Place the
third slice of toast on this and garnish with pickles or olives.
Serve while the toast and bacon are hot.

GRILLED TONGUE AND EGG SANDWICHES

1 cup chopped tongue 1 cup milk

1 tg^ 2 tablespoons mayonnaise

1 teaspoon onion- juice dressing

Mix the tongue with the onion- juice and the mayonnaise and
spread it on thin slices of unbuttered bread. Press the slices
together and cut in two diagonally. Beat the eg^, add the milk
and dip the sandwiches in this mixture. Brown them in a small
amount of butter, first on one side and then on the other.
Garnish with parsley and serve at once on a hot platter.

SANDWICHES 153

CX)UNTRY CLUB SANDWICHES

Butter slices of toast. On each slice lay thin cuts of cooked
sausage. Cover with a well-seasoned tomato sauce and sprinkle
with grated cheese. Lay a strip of bacon on each sandwich and
bake in a hot oven until the bacon is crisp.

TURKISH SANDWICHES

1 cup cooked chicken cut in ^ cup cream

small pieces 1 teaspoon onion-juice

1 tablespoon butter ^ cup walnut meats

5/2 cup stock Paprika Salt

1 tablespoon flour Thin slices of toasted bread

Make a sauce of the stock, cream, flour, and butter. Add the
other ingredients, and heat thoroughly. Place on slices of toast.
Brush with melted butter and garnish with thin rings cut from
stuffed olives. Serve immediately on a hot platter.

HAM SWEET SANDWICHES

For each sandwich allow two medium-thin slices of cold
boiled ham. Lay the ham in French dressing for a few minutes.
Drain and dip in a plain fritter batter. Fry in deep fat and
drain on soft paper. Place one of the slices of ham on a hot
plate, add lettuce and cover with another slice of the fried
ham. Pour orange-raisin sauce over the sandwich and serve
at once.

HOT BISCUIT SANDWICH

Make plain baking-powder biscuits. Bake until the crust Is
crisp on both top and bottom. Break — do not cut — the biscuits
apart and butter the halves. On one side place a thick slice
of tomato, then a layer of mayonnaise dressing and then one of
minced bacon. Cover with the other half of the biscuit, press
lightly together and serve at once.

SAVORY SANDWICHES

Spread slices of whole-wheat or graham toast with butter.
Over these place slices of crisply cooked bacon. Sprinkle
generously with chopped pickle and horseradish. Serve with
sliced tomatoes.

154

SARDINE AND TOAST SANDWICHES

1 cup sardines Mayonnaise

Lettuce Lemon-juice

Onlon-julce Graham bread

Sardines that have been prepared in oil are to be preferred
for these sandwiches. Drain the sardines, tear them in pieces,
add a few drops of lemon-juice, onion-juice and enough mayon-
naise to moisten. Toast medium-thin slices of graham bread,
and spread with butter creamed with a few drops of lemon-
juice. Cover with lettuce and add the sardines and another
slice of toast. Serve with a garnish of lemon.

CHEESE AND TOMATO SANDWICHES

6 slices bread 6 slices bacon

6 slices tomato Grated cheese

Butter the slices of bread. On each slice, place a slice of to-
mato, cover with grated cheese, and add a slice of bacon. Toast
under the flame of a broiler until the bacon is crisp.

HAM OR BACON AND CHEESE SANDWICHES

Butter slices of toasted bread. Cover with a thin slice of
boiled ham or bacon, spread with mustard, and cover with a
layer of thinly sliced or grated cheese. Place the slices in the
oven until the cheese is melted. Garnish with minced parsley
and serve at once.

PEANUT AND CHILI SANDWICHES

Mix peanut butter with chili sauce to form a paste. Spread
slices of hot brown bread or toasted graham bread with butter,
add the mixture and put the slices together with crisp lettuce
leaves between. Garnish with slices of dill pickle.

DEVILED TOMATO SANDWICHES

6 tomatoes Pepper

1 cup bread crumbs 1 cup ground boiled ham

4 slices bacon 1 tablespoon French mustard

Salt 6 slices bread

Cut a slice from the stem end of each tomato. Sprinkle with
salt, pepper and bits of bacon. Bake until the tomatoes are

SANDWICHES 155

tender. Serve on slices of hot buttered toast spread with the
ground ham mixed with the mustard.

Suggestions for Breakfast Sandwiches

Poached egg on toast is an open-faced sandwich. Rolls split,
toasted, and buttered, with broiled tender bacon placed between
them, or bacon between crisply toasted slices of well buttered
corn bread are other forms of breakfast sandwiches.

Creamed oysters on toast, scrambled eggs on buttered toast
spread with anchovy paste, creamed codfish between two slices
of buttered toast are all in the breakfast category of sandwiches.
To make a variation of French toast that takes it out of the
sweet and puts it into the meat class, spread buttered slices of
bread with deviled ham, put the slices together in twos, dip them
into a mixture of egg and milk in proportion of two eggs to one
cup of milk, and then saute the slices in butter until they are
nicely brown on both sides.

Old fashioned country sausage may be cut in thin rounds,
fried a delicate brown and served between hot, savory pancakes
of the same size as the sausage slices.

Suggestions for Hot Sandwiches

Hot sandwiches should be substantial and filling without
losing the chief characteristic of all sandwiches — ease in han-
dling. For this reason rolls and buns are often more satisfactory
than sliced bread or toast.

Broiled Hamburger steaks on round rolls are always popular.
The meat mixture may be varied by rolling a stuffed olive in
each; by adding strips of bacon crosswise after the first turning,
or by a slice of Bermuda onion on both sides. Chopped pickles,
carrots, celery or radishes may be added to the meat before
broiling.

1. Broiled pineapple with sliced hot chicken, hot turkey or
hot duck, on whole wheat bread. 2. Broiled ham with a slice o£
pineapple, either fresh or canned, served on white toast. 3 . Sliced
roast lamb with grilled fresh pineapple on toasted English muf-
fins. 4. Sliced hard-cooked egg with hot anchovy sauce on Bos-
ton brown bread. 5. Hot roast veal with anchovy sauce and
grilled tomato on rye roll. 6. Grilled tomato with Cheddar cheese
on rye toast. 7. Hot smoked tongue with fried apples on toasted
English muffins. 8. Hot corned beef with grilled sweet potato
and endive on finger rolls.

TOAST

BREAD for toast should be cut in slices from one -eighth
to one-half inch thick and toasted over a clear fire or in
a gas or electric toaster until both sides are an even, rich golden
brown. Unless a toaster with an automatic timing and turning
device is used, the slices should be turned two or three times
to avoid warping.

CRISP DRY TOAST

Cut the crust from stale bread. Slice the bread as thin as
a wafer, dry it on a pan lined with paper, in the oven, leaving
the door open. When it is entirely dry, close the oven door
and brown slightly.

TOAST MELBA

Cut bread in one-eighth-inch slices and toast until it is crisp.

BUTTERED TOAST

Toast bread until crisp and a rich brown on both sides. But-
ter while hot and serve at once.

WATER TOAST

Toast bread until crisp and brown. Pour into a soup-plate
one cup boiling water and one teaspoon salt. Dip the toast
into this water and remove at once. Spread lightly with butter
and serve immediately.

MILK TOAST

No. 1

Toast bread, butter it well, sprinkle with salt and pour scalded
milk over it.

No. 2

6 slices buttered toast 2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons flour 2 cups milk

Salt

Make a white sauce of the flour, butter, milk and salt and
pour it over the buttered toast.

156

TOAST 157

CREAM TOAST

6 slices buttered toast 1 cup scalded cream

1 tablespoon flour Salt

1 cup scalded milk 1 egg

Make a white sauce of the milk, cream, flour and salt. Pour
this hot liquid over the beaten egg. Pour over the toast and
serve immediately.

TOMATO CREAM TOAST

6 slices buttered toast 2 tablespoons butter

1 cup milk Salt

2 tablespoons flour 1 cup tomato, fresh or
Ys teaspoon soda canned

Make a white sauce of the milk, flour, butter and salt. Cook
and strain the tomato and add the soda. Stir the hot tomato
into the white sauce and pour immediately over the toast.

FRIED TOAST OR FRENCH TOAST

12 slices bread Yz inch thick Y2 teaspoon salt

3 eggs 2 cups milk

Beat the eggs, add the milk and salt. Dip slices of bread into
the mixture and saute in a little hot fat until a delicate brown
on both sides. Serve hot. Sprinkle with powdered sugar or
serve maple sirup with the toast.

CINNAMON TOAST

Spread hot toast with butter and sprinkle generously with a
mixture of sugar and cinnamon. Place on the top shelf of the
oven or under the broiler just long enough to melt the sugar.

TOASTED LOAF AND CORNUCOPIA

Remove all but the bottom crust from loaf of bread. Cut
through center, lengthwise, then into equal sections crosswise.
Brush with melted butter and brown in 375° oven.

Cornucopia — Remove crusts from sliced bread, lay thick
cheese strip diagonally, fold bread to opposite corners, fasten
with toothpick, brush with melted butter and brown in mod-
erate oven (350° F.). Remove toothpicks to serve.

TOAST YOUR WHOLE LOAF IN
THIS FASHION AND USE THE
CRUST FOR AN ENTREE TREAS-
URE CHEST A
—Wheat Flour Institute

'*"''!WyR.».„

-^^M\ i'

iir/m

USE THE $»f SANDWICH DEi
SIGNS FOR TOAST, OR ROIL g
CORNUCOPIA WITH A CHEE*
TONGUE fOR THE FESMp

ocCASiQii;: ^^-i^m-

--Whear iyur InstttuN

APPETIZERS

STRICT convention in England and America at one time
decreed that the formal dinner should begin with soup,
but that custom is no longer binding even in the most formal
household. Other dishes to introduce the meal have crept in
and because of their savory qualities have found ready and
general acceptance. Appetizers, they are usually called. Some-
times they are referred to as relishes or as hors d'oeuvres, because
they are often a glorified edition of the old side dish now given
a conspicuous place as a separate course by itself.

Characteristics of the Appetizer

The appetizer must have distinct, piquant flavor and appetite-
whetting qualities. Pickled and salted foods, acids, pepper and
paprika play a conspicuous part in their manufacture. Raw
oysters and clams, grapefruit, melons and fruit cocktails,
canapes and small sandwiches spread with pastes of sardines,
anchovies and caviar, lobster and crabmeat, pate de foie gras,
cheese, olives and other mixtures of high flavor, deviled eggs,
small succulent salads, may all be included without prejudice
in the list of appetizers. In parts of the United States, the
dinner is always begun with the salad as the appetizer.

Serving the Appetizer

The appetizer should always be served in small portions be-
cause the purpose of this course is to whet but not to satisfy
the appetite.

At formal dinners and luncheons, the same kind of appetizer
is generally served to all the guests, but at more informal meals
the hostess may give her guests an opportunity to choose their
own appetizers. In that case a number of portions of various
kinds are arranged on a regulation hors d'oeuvre tray or on a
chop plate or small platter which is passed to each guest.

Each portion must be arranged so that it may be lifted from
the tray by the guest and transferred to his plate without
trouble. Suitable service silver — usually a tablespoon and large
folk— must be laid on each tray.

158

APPETIZERS 159

The following combination will serve as a suggestion for the
arrangement of a tray:

1. A crab salad. 2. An onion and green pepper salad. 3. Three or
four olives on a small lettuce leaf. 4. A sandwich made of cress and
brown bread and butter. 5. An oblong or square of aspic jelly on a
lettuce leaf with an anchovy or sardine on the jelly. 6. Half of a.
deviled egg on a lettuce leaf or in a bed of cress. 7. Cream cheese balls
rolled in chopped chipped beef. 8. Cream cheese balls rolled in caviar.
9. Large stuffed olives filled with sharp cheese, wrapped in bacon and
broiled until bacon is crisp. 10. Center celery stalks stuffed with Roque-
fort cheese paste or anchovy paste. 11. Small sweet pickles rolled in
cream cheese then in a strip of smoked salmon, fastened with toothpick.
12. Rolled anchovies in broiled mushrooms. 13- Caviar in broiled
mushrooms. 14. Tiny meat balls in broiled mushrooms. 15. Chicken
liver balls rolled in chopped chipped beef.

Shell Fish

Oysters or clams on the half-shell, oyster, clam, lobster or
crab cocktails may be used as the appetizer. The recipes are
given in the chapter on "Fish."

Canapes

PREPARED BREAD FOR ALL CANAPES

Canapes are made from stale white bread, cut in quarter-
inch slices and then shaped with a cutter into circles two and
one-half or three inches in diameter or cut into squares, strips,
triangles or other fancy shapes. These portions of bread may
then be fried in deep fat and drained on absorbent paper, or
sauted in just enough fat to keep them from burning, or toasted
or set in the oven until they turn a delicate brown. When
•finished they should be nicely browned on both sides. They are
then ready to be covered with the mixture preferred.

ANCHOVY CANAPES

6 portions prepared bread 3 teaspoons lemon-juice

3 tablespoons anchovy paste 2 hard-cooked eggs

Whole anchovies for garnish (may be omitted)

Anchovy paste, which comes in tubes, jars or bottles, may
be utilized, or whole anchovies may be reduced to a smooth

(

i6o

paste with a wooden spoon. Season with lemon- juice and
spread the paste on the prepared pieces of bread. Split anchovy
lengthwise and lay the halves diagonally across the canape, mark-
ing the point where they cross by a little pyramid of riced yolk
of hard-cooked eggs. Petal-shaped pieces of the hard-cooked
white may radiate from this center pyramid. A large anchovy
curved around a circle of hard-cooked egg in the center of a
canape is also effective. The anchovies may be omitted from
the garnish.

SARDINE OR LOBSTER OR OTHER SEA FOOD
CANAPES

6 portions prepared bread Salt

6 large sardines or Worcestershire sauce

6 tablespoons lobster or other Pickled beets

sea food, chopped fine 6 large olives

Juice of 1 lemon 24 thin slices lemon

Remove skin and backbone and flake the sardines with a fork.
Or chop cooked lobster meat very fine. Season with lemon-
juice, salt and a few drops of Worcestershire sauce. Spread
the prepared bread with the mixture and decorate by placing
in the center of each canape a small circle of pickled beet. Cut
a slice from the end of a large olive so that it will stand firmly
and place this in the center of the beet. A narrow border o£
minced beet may be placed around the edge of the canape
with good effect. Garnish the plate with four thin slices o£
lemon placed symmetrically.

Crab meat, shrimps or any smoked or canned fish, highly
seasoned and attractively garnished, may be utilized for canapes
instead of the sardines or lobster meat.

CAVIAR CANAPES

6 portions prepared bread 3 tablespoons white onion

3 tablespoons caviar chopped fine

Garnish of green pepper or hard-cooked egg

Caviar, which is the salted roe of the sturgeon, is highly
esteemed by epicures as an appetizer. It is usually served with
minced raw onion and decorated with hard-cooked egg and
minced pickles. A favorite arrangement is to have an oblong
canape two by four inches, one half covered with the minced

APPETIZERS i6i

raw onion and the other half with the caviar. The striking
difference in the colors is very effective. A sliver of green pep-
per may lie just where the two mixtures meet and little points
of the green pepper extend out on each side, or a circle of the
white of hard-cooked egg may decorate the center of the half
covered with caviar and a little mound of the riced yolk orna-
ment the section covered by the chopped onion.

CHEESE AND OLIVE CANAPES

6 portions prepared bread Garnish of red pepper or

3 tablespoons cream cheese pickled beet

Olives stuffed with pimientos

Spread on the prepared bread a paste made by mixing equal
proportions of cream cheese and chopped stuffed olives. Garnish
with a quarter-inch border of the chopped olives and a star of
red pepper or pickled beet in the center of each canape.

PATE DE FOIE GRAS CANAPES

6 portions prepared bread % cup cream

3 tablespoons pate de foie Cayenne pepper

gras paste or imitation pate Salt

de foie gras Parsley

Add the cream and seasoning to the paste. Rub through a
fine sieve and spread on portions of fried bread. Garnish with
parsley.

Imitation Pate de Foie Gras

Yz cup chicken livers ^ onion,* chopped

2 tablespoons chicken fat or Salt and pepper

butter Mustard or celery salt

Carefully clean, cook and chop chicken livers and mash them
to a paste with a wooden spoon. Chop the onion fine and fry
in the fat till yellowed. Place the livers, the fat and the onion
in a cup, mix well and season with pepper and salt, and either
mustard or celery salt, according to taste. Place at once on ice.
This preparation makes excellent sandwiches.

1 62

Suggestions for Mixtures to Be Used in Making
Canapes

1. Anchovy paste mixed with lemon- juice.

2. Shredded tuna fish mixed with lemon- juice and mayon-
naise.

3. Chopped lobster meat mixed with cream and seasoned
with salt, pepper and lemon-juice.

4. Cream cheese and chopped stufifed olives.

5. Minced red and green peppers mixed with mayonnaise
and seasoned with salt, pepper and lemon-juice.

6. Sardine paste mixed with lemon- juice, salt and Worcester-
shire sauce.

7. A layer of anchovy paste covered with a paste of shredded
crab meat, cream cheese and butter, seasoned with salt and
pepper.

8. Devilled ham mixed with chopped hard-cooked egg and
horseradish.

Fruit Appetizers

Fruit cocktails may be made from mixtures of almost any
fruits, canned or fresh. As a rule, combinations of a sweet
and a sour fruit are most piquant in flavor. All fruit appetizers
should be thoroughly chilled. The trays of the mechanical
refrigerator are excellent for this purpose.

GRAPEFRUIT COCKTAILS

No. 1 — Grapefruit on the Half Shell.

Cut grapefruit in half, crosswise. With a pair of sharp
shears or with a grapefruit corer, cut a circular piece from the
center of each half, being careful not to cut through the skin.
Then with a sharp knife loosen each section from the mem-
brane and skin. Sprinkle with sugar and set in the refrigerator
to chill. Pink the edges of the skin if you prefer, and remove
the pieces of membrane between the sections of fruit if you
have time. In this way the shell is left with only edible portions
of the fruit. In any case each mouthful of fruit should be en-
tirely detached from the shell. Serve a half grapefruit on a
plate or in a special grapefruit glass, embedded in ice.

APPETIZERS 163

No. 2 — Grapefruit and Orange Cocktail.
1 cup diced grapefruit pulp Sugar

1 cup diced orange pulp Lemon-juice or grape-juice

Maraschino cherries or preserved pineapple

Mix the orange and grapefruit pulp. Sprinkle with sugar
and a little lemon-juice or grape-juice. Chill, and have glasses
chilled so that the whole, when served, may be very cold. At
the last moment fill the glasses with the fruit mixture, garnish-
ing with cherries or preserved pineapple.

No. 3 — Grapefruit and Strawberry Cocktail.

3 grapefruit 1 pint strawberries

Sugar

Cut the grapefruit in half and carefully remove the pulp,
leaving the inner white skin as lining. Place the shells in cold
water to keep them firm. Mix the grapefruit pulp with the
strawberries and sprinkle with sugar. Chill. At serving time,
fill the shells with the mixture placing large handsome berries
on top as garnish. The mixed fruit left over may be served
at breakfast or used as a sauce for pudding or ice-cream.

STRAWBERRY AND PINEAPPLE COCKTAIL

1 cup orange-juice Sugar

y2, cup lemon-juice 1 cup strawberries

1 cup diced pineapple

Combine the orange- and lemon- juice sweetened to taste,
keeping the mixture rather tart. Chill. Wash and drain the
strawberries and hull them. At serving time cut the berries
in half (except six large ones), mix with the pineapple, place
in glasses and cover with the fruit- juice. One large, perfect
berry set on a tiny circle of pineapple may decorate the top
of each cocktail.

ORANGE MINT COCKTAIL

6 small, rather sour oranges 3 tablespoons lemon-juice or

Powdered sugar 3 tablespoons pineapple-juice

Fresh mint 2 tablespoons sugar

Separate the orange into sections and remove the thin skin
with a pair of scissors. Chill thoroughly, place in glasses,
sprinkle with powdered sugar and add the lemon -juice mixed

1 64

with pineapple-juice or sugar. Sprinkle with chopped mint
and garnish with an upright sprig of mint in the center of the
glass.

WATERMELON COCKTAIL

2 cups watermelon balls Powdered sugar

Fresh mint 2 tablespoons lemon-juice

(Lemon- juice and sugar may be omitted)

"With a vegetable-cutter prepare small balls of bright pink
watermelon. Sprinkle lightly with sugar and add lemon- juice.
Chill thoroughly. Fill glasses. Garnish with sprigs of fresh
mint. A pretty fancy is to moisten the edge of each cocktail
glass and invert in chopped mint before filling. This will leave
a line of green adhering to the edge of the glass. The glass may
be lined with sprigs of mint before the watermelon is put in.

CHERRY COCKTAIL

1 pound cherries 6 tablespoons strawberry-juice

Yz cup chopped almonds 6 tablespoons powdered sugar

3 teaspoons lemon- juice

Pit the cherries, sprinkle with chopped almonds and pour
over them a sirup made by mixing strawberry- juice with
powdered sugar and lemon- juice. Chill and serve ice-cold in
cocktail glasses. Decorate the plate with two or three whole
cherries and a leaf or two.

MIXED FRUIT COCKTAIL

6 large oranges Juice of 1 lemon

1 banana Sugar

2 slices pineapple

Slice oflF the tops of the oranges and scoop out the inside,
being careful not to break the inside white skin of the orange-
peel. Put the orange cups into a bowl of ice-water. Cut in
small pieces the banana and pineapple, mix these with the
orange pulp cut in small pieces, add the lemon- juice, sweeten
to taste, and fill the orange shells. Set each one in a small bowl,
filled with crushed ice.

The mixed fruit pulp that remains after the orange skins
have been filled may be kept in the refrigerator and served as
sauce with ice-cream or used in any other way that circum-
stances suggest.

fiir^-';

mas

m.^

FOR THE HOSTESS WHO
j WOULD DEVELOP A SPE-
CIALITE DE LA MAISON
THERE ARE BACON-
OLIVE-CHEESE, CREAM
CHEESE COATED IN
CHIPPED BEEF, OR THE
INDIVIDUAL CHECKER-
BOARD LOAF

SOUPS

SOUPS may be roughly divided into two groups. In the
first group belong the soups that are always made from
meat stock. These are the various modifications of brown
and white stocks, bouillons, consommes and broths. In the
second group belong the soups that may be made either with
or without meat stock. These are the various modifications of
cream soups, purees and bisques, of chowders and stews and of
vegetable soups.

The Value of Soup in the Dietary

The purpose of soup in the meal is two-fold ; first, to improve
digestion and stimulate appetite by introducing at the beginning
of the meal a highly flavored liquid food which increases the
flow of digestive juices; second, to increase the variety of nu-
trients in the meal, or even to furnish the main dish of the meal.
Stock soups are chiefly valuable for the first purpose. Cream
soups, purees, bisques, chowders and stews are more valuable
for the second purpose.

A heavy meal should begin with an un thickened stock soup;
a light meal may well begin with one of the cream variety.

Home Made and Ready to Use Soups

Not so long ago, all soups were made at home, and the stock
pot was kept on the stove day in and day out; but with the
gradual change from coal to gas and electricity as fuels, and
with the perfecting of modern commercial canning and con-
densing methods, the long slow process of stock making has
become less common in home kitchens.

However, in soup many valuable food materials that would
otherwise be thrown out may be saved for the nourishment
of the family, and some knowledge of the principles of soup
making is worth while for every housekeeper. A home made
soup which is lacking in strength or flavor may be easily im-
proved by the addition of a can of soup or some of the various
meat extracts obtainable.

165

i66

For the small family, the canned soups are almost indispen-
sable, and in the making of sauces and gravies, where only a
small amount of stock is required, a can of soup supplies the
required foundation at a minimum of trouble and expense.

Making Soup Stock

Cut Meat in Small Pieces and saw or crack bone. This
is done to increase the surface exposed to the action of hot
water.

Brown From One-fourth to One-half the Meat for
brown stocks and consommes. This gives added color and im-
proves flavor.

Soak the Meat and Bone in Cold Water for thirty
minutes or more before cooking. This helps to extract the
juices of the meat.

Heat Gradually to the Simmering-point (190° -2 10°
F.). If stock is to be used for bouillon or consomme or any
clear soup, skim at this time. Continue to simmer for three
or four hours to insure as complete extraction as possible of
the juices and flavor of meat. If the mixture boils, it is not
so fine in flavor.

Add the Spices, Herbs, and Vegetables, and continue
simmering from one-half hour to one hour. The seasonings
are added at this time rather than earlier to prevent the dis-
agreeable flavor of over-cooked vegetables.

Strain the Soup Into a Large Bowl or other container.
If the stock is to be used for clear soups, place several thicknesses
of cheese-cloth over the strainer before pouring the mixture
through it.

Cool the Stock Quickly, because quick cooling improves
the keeping quality of the soup. Soup should, if possible, al-
ways be allowed to become thoroughly cold before being
used, since the fat hardens and collects in a cake on top and can
be removed easily. Do not remove fat from the top of soup
stock until the stock is to be used. It protects the stock against
spoilage.

Keep Stock in a Cold Place, as it spoils quickly if it is not
kept chilled. Spoiled stock, like spoiled meat, is dangerous food.

SOUPS 167

Using Soup Stock

Wlien ready to use stock, loosen fat around the edges with
the thin blade of a knife. Remove the cake of fat. If the
stock is jellied, wipe off the remaining small pieces of fat and
the edge of the bowl with a cloth wrung out in hot water. If
the stock is very soft or liquid, pass small sheets of absorbent
paper over the top of the stock.

When Stock Must Be Used Before Cooling, skim off all
the fat possible. Most of the remainder of the fat may be
removed in one of two ways. The first way is to pass over the
top small sheets of absorbent paper or blotting-paper. The
second way is to cool the soup as much as possible beforehand,
then to wrap a piece of ice in a cloth and let it down into the
stock. Move the ice around just below the surface so that the
fat on the surface is suddenly chilled, and it will gather on the
cloth around the ice. This must be done quickly to prevent
unnecessary dilution of the stock.

For Clear Soups, take the stock from the top of the bowl,
being careful to avoid any sediment which may have escaped
through the sieve and settled to the bottom of the bowl. This
sediment is valuable as a food and should be reserved for gravies
or soups which are not necessarily clear. Clarify this stock if
a translucent, sparkling soup is desired.

To Clarify Soup — Allow one egg-white and shell to one
quart of stock. Crush the shell into small pieces and mix with
the slightly beaten egg-white. Heat the stock just enough to
liquefy it, if it is jellied. Thoroughly stir the egg-white and
shell into the stock. Heat to the boiling-point, stirring con-
stantly, then boil without stirring two to five minutes. Add a
cup of cold water and set on back of stove to settle. Strain
through two thicknesses of cheese-cloth. The purpose of egg
in clarifying soup is the same as in coffee. The coagulated egg
gathers around itself the particles of solid substance in the soup,
which otherwise would be fine enough to pass through a strainer.

i68

INGREDIENTS NEEDED TO MAKE ONE QUART
OF STANDARD STOCK

Brown Stock or Bouillon.

2 pounds beef (% to

bone)
154 quarts cold water
4 to 6 peppercorns
2 cloves
1 bay-leaf

1 blade mace

1 teaspoon sweet herbs

Sprig parsley

1 tablespoon, each, of carrot,

onion, celery, turnip
1 teaspoon salt

A good stock can be made by using left-over meat scraps
and bones instead of the beef specified, and by substituting any
available vegetables, such as the outer leaves of lettuce, celery
tops, etc., for those given above. After the stock is made, left-
over vegetables, cereals, hard-cooked eggs, small pieces of meat,
etc., may be diced or chopped and served in the soup.

Consomme.

1 pound lean beef

1 pound veal

1 54 quarts cold water or
1 pint cold water and
1 pint chicken stock

2 peppercorns

1 clove

Yz teaspoon sweet herbs
Sprig parsley

1 tablespoon each, celery, car-
rot, onion
1 teaspoon salt

Mutton or Lamb Stock or Broth — Use the same ingre-
dients as for brown stock or bouillon, using mutton or lamb
instead of beef, and removing most of the fat from the meat.

White Stock.

2 pounds chicken or knuckle

of veal
\y^ quarts cold water
2 peppercorns
1 clove

Yz teaspoon sweet herbs

1 tablespoon, each, of onion

and celery
1 teaspoon salt

The liquid in which a fowl or chicken is cooked is also a
white stock or chicken broth.

SOUPS 169

Fish Stock or Court Bouillon.

2 pounds white fish or 1 clove

2 pounds head and trim- Sprig parsley

mings 1 bay-leaf

154 quarts cold water 1 tablespoon, each, carrot,

2 peppercorns celery, onion

Fish stock needs to be cooked for only half the time required
for other stock.

VARIATIONS OF BROWN OR WHITE SOUP STOCK

Vegetable Soup — If a clear soup is desired, follow the direc-
tions for clarifying soup stock, and then add, to each quart of
brown stock, one cup of diced vegetables, raw or cooked. If
the vegetables are cooked, the soup needs to be boiled for only
a few minutes. When raw vegetables are added, simmer until
the vegetables are all tender, adding boiling water, if necessary,
to replace any that may have evaporated. Season to taste and
serve.

Sago, Rice or Barley Soup — ^For each quart of brown or
white stock, use two tablespoons sago, rice or barley. Soak sago
or rice one-half hour in enough stock or water to cover it.
Barley should be soaked over night. Bring remainder of stock
to simmering-point. Add soaked sago, barley, or rice and sim-
mer in closed saucepan one-half hour.

Macaroni, Vermicelli, Spaghetti, or Noodle Soup — ^For
each quart brown stock, use 54 cup macaroni, spaghetti, vermi-
celli or noodles broken into small pieces. Simmer the pastes in
the stock until tender, adding water if necessary.

VARIATIONS OF CONSOMME

Consomme Princesse — Consomme served with shreds or
small dice of cooked chicken and green peas.

Consomme a la Royale — Consomme served with tiny
blocks of royal custard.

Consomme Julienne or Julienne Soup — Consomme
served with carrot, onions, turnips and celery cut into shreds
about as thick as a match.

The vegetables should be boiled in clear water before being
added to the consomme.

170

Unthlckened Soups

Soups suitable for serving as the first course of a meal with
a substantial main course are found in this group. Any of the
variations of soup stock or consomme may be used for this
purpose. The following recipes give directions for other soups
of this variety.

CHICKEN OR TURKEY BONE SOUP

Never discard the bones of turkey or chicken as they always
will make a delicious soup. Scrape the meat from the bones,
break the bones, pack in a kettle, and cover with cold water,
adding a small onion. Cover closely and simmer very gently
for three hours. Strain and cool. One-half hour before it is
to be served, return to the fire and for every quart of stock
add one cup of the cold meat, season and keep hot till needed.
This soup may be greatly improved by adding to it, three
minutes before serving, ten oysters to each quart of soup.

CLAM BROTH

12 clams in the shell 2 cups water Paprika

Purchase large clams in the shells. Scrub them thoroughly
with a brush, place them in a kettle with cold water, closely
covered, and bring water to the boiling-point. As soon as the
shells have opened, remove them from the broth. The clams
may be served at once, in the half-shell, or taken from the
shells and kept to be served in any form desired. Let the broth
settle, strain, being careful not to pour out the sandy sediment,
reheat, add a little red pepper or paprika, and serve hot. Twelve
good-sized clams should make enough broth for six persons,
but if there does not seem to be sufficient, add a little boiling
water or milk. Clam broth seldom needs added salt. Water
wafers heated in the oven, or divided crackers toasted on their
broken surfaces, buttered and heated for a few minutes in the
oven, are generally served with this broth.

Clam broth may be served, hot or cold, in cups with a heap-
ing teaspoon of whipped cream, into which has been beaten a
little salt and pepper, placed upon the top of each cup. The
cream adds richness to the flavor of the soup and increases its
nourishing properties.

MODERN M!LK PRODUCTS ADD
GREATLY TO THE SUCCESS OF
MAKING CREAMY THICK SOUPS
— Irradiated Evaporated Milk
institute

SOUPS 171

CLEAR TOMATO SOUP

1 quart brown soup stock 4 tablespoons butter

1 can tomatoes 2 sprigs parsley

1^ teaspoon peppercorns y^ cup each, onion, carrot,

1 small bay-leaf celery, raw ham, cut in

3 cloves dice

3 sprigs thyme Salt Pepper

Cook onion, carrot, celery, and ham in butter five minutes.
Add tomatoes, peppercorns, bay-leaf, cloves, thyme and parsley,
cover and cook slowly one hour. Strain carefully, add hot
stock, and season with salt and pepper.

This recipe may be used for jellied soup or for salad.

JELLIED SOUP

1 quart clear brown, or white 2 tablespoons gelatin

stock, or tomato or chicken J4 cup cold water

soup

Soften the gelatin in the cold water, add to the boiling hot
soup, chill and serve in cups. The trays of the mechanical
refrigerator are excellent for chilling soups.

Substantial Vegetable and Stock Soups

Soups in this group are suitable for serving as the first course
of an otherwise light dinner or as the main course of an in-
formal luncheon.

BEAN SOUP

3 slices bacon 1 tablespoon flour

2 cups baked or boiled beans 1 tablespoon butter

4 cups cold water Salt, pepper, paprika

Cook bacon. Add to beans. Add cold water and cook until
beans are soft, then rub through a strainer. Place on the fire
and add a little more water, if needed, as the soup must not be
too thick. Bind with the flour and butter. Cook two or three
minutes. Season with salt, a dash of pepper, and paprika.

172

BLACK BEAN SOUP

1 cup black beans 2 tablespoons butter

lYz quarts water 2 tablespoons flour

1 onion 2 hard-cooked eggs

1 tablespoon fat for sauteing Yz teaspoon mustard

2 stalks celery Pepper, salt, paprika
1 lemon

Soak the beans over night. Next morning, drain them and
cover with the cold water. Add sliced onion, which has been
browned in the fat, also stalks of celery broken into inch pieces.
Simmer until beans are soft, adding more water from time to
time. Press through a sieve, again bring to the boiling-point,
and then add seasoning of mustard, pepper, salt, and paprika to
taste. Bind with roux of butter and flour to prevent the soup
from separating. Cut the eggs and lemon in thin slices, and add
these to the strained soup just before serving.

BORSCHT

(A Famous Russian Soup)

1 bunch beets Yz pound breast of beef

1 cup tomatoes, fresh or 1 tablespoon lemon-juice

canned Y4 cup sugar

4 cups water Ya teaspoon salt

1 small onion 4 eggs

Pare the beets and cut them into long strips. Strain the toma-
toes, over the beets, not letting any seeds through. Add water.
Put in the onion and meat, cut into small pieces, and simmer
for thirty minutes. Add lemon- juice, sugar, and salt. Boil one-
half hour more. Beat the eggs with a pinch of salt. Add the
hot borscht to this, a little at a time, stirring well to prevent
the separating of the eggs. This will behave more or less as in
any soft custard mixture. Serve at once, while very hot.

BOUILLABAISSE

This is a famous fish mixture and greatly esteemed by epi-
cures, but it can not be recommended as economical. It has one
advantage, however, and that is that if served with celery,
bread and butter, and a dessert, it would provide the main dish
for an excellent meal.

SOUPS 173

5/2 cup oil 1 quart boiling water

2 onions, chopped 12 oysters or clams

iy2 pounds haddock 1 tablespoon parsley, chopped

1 Yz pounds cod or halibut 1 boiled lobster

2 slices lemon 1 teaspoon caramel coloring
1 bay-leaf 1 teaspoon salt Pepper

1 tomato Croutons

Put the oil and chopped onions into a large fish-kettle and
cook until the onions are brown. Add the fish, cut in slices,
two slices of lemon, a bay-leaf and the tomato, peeled and cut
into quarters. Pour the boiling water over this mixture after
it has simmered for ten minutes, and let all boil for another ten
minutes. Skim, add oysters or clams and chopped parsley,
also the meat of the boiled lobster, cut in large pieces, and cara-
mel, salt, and pepper. Each portion served should include a
large crouton, about two inches square, a piece of each kind
of fish, a piece of lobster, and a couple of oysters.

CHICKEN GUMBO

This recipe, if followed as given, will provide the main dish
for dinner. Chicken gumbo may be made by using leftovers,
or the remainder after making chicken salad or boned chicken.

1 fowl (3 to 4 pounds) 2 sprigs parsley

Yz cup salt pork fat 3 cups boiling water

1 onion Yz teaspoon pepper

1 quart okra, fresh or canned 2 tablespoons salt

5 tomatoes 1 cup boiled rice
1 cup cream

This is a noted Southern soup. Cut the chicken into con-
venient pieces and saute until brown in salt pork fat, then place
all the pieces in a saucepan. Cut a large onion into thin slices
and saute slowly for ten minutes in the fat. Add okra, cut
fine, sliced tomatoes, and parsley sprigs. Saute all of these in-
gredients one-half hour, quite slowly, and place them in the
saucepan with the chicken. Add boiling water, pepper and
salt. Simmer slowly two to four hours, or until the chicken is
very tender, and then add boiled rice and cream. If more
seasoning is needed, add it, and if necessary, thin with boiling
water. Boil up once and serve. Cayenne pepper (one-fourth
teaspoon) may be used instead of white or black pepper, if de-
sired. Separate the bones from the chicken. Serve with pieces
of chicken in the plate with the soup.

174

CHICKEN SOUP

This recipe provides a large bowl of substantial soup, as well
as a cooked fowl, and when the soup is served the rest of the
dinner should consist of light dishes. For more economical
recipes see Index for chicken or turkey bone soup, and chicken
broth for invalids.

1 fowl (3 to 4 pounds) 1 cup milk

Yz pound ham 1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1 onion Salt and pepper

2 to 3 quarts water 1 tablespoon flour

54 cup rice . 1 tablespoon chicken fat

Cut up fowl into quarters, with the ham and onion, and add
the water. Let this simmer until the meat is very tender, then
strain, reserving the meat to be used in any way desired. Re-
move all possible fat, and to one and one-fourth quarts of this
soup (the remainder can be used for sauce with the meat) add
well washed rice, chopped parsley, salt and pepper. Simmer
until the rice is tender, add milk, then add roux made of flour
and chicken fat. Cook until the mixture is thickened (about
iiye. minutes), season and serve.

GREEN PEA SOUP

2 cups stock 2 sprigs mint

1 quart water 1 tablespoon flour

1 quart green peas 1 tablespoon butter

1 celery stalk Salt and pepper

1 onion Sugar

1 turnip

Reserve one-half cup of peas, and to the stock and water
add the rest of the peas, the celery stalk, onion and turnip cut
into pieces, and the mint. Stew until the mass is tender. Strain
through a sieve or coarse cheese-cloth. Thin with stock or
water, if necessary; bind with a roux of flour and fat and season
with salt, pepper, and a little sugar. Add the half cup of whole
peas, stew for a few minutes, and serve,

SPLIT PEA SOUP

This recipe provides the main part of a dinner, since the
ham end will serve as the meat dish. A ham bone, left over

SOUPS 175

from a boiled or baked ham, will flavor pea soup quite as well
as a piece bought especially for the purpose.

2 or 3 pounds ham end 3 quarts boiling water

1 carrot 1 cup split peas

1 onion Salt and pepper

2 potatoes 2 tablespoons catchup

Put the end of a moderately lean smoked ham into a kettle
with carrot and peeled onion, whole potatoes, and boiling water.
Boil one hour and strain. Now rinse the ham thoroughly in
hot water and return to the strained stock, together with split
peas which have been soaking all night, and boil for one hour.
Season with salt and white pepper and add catchup. Serve at
once. Thin with boiling water if too thick.

ONION SOUP GRATINE

3 onions Pepper and salt

3 tablespoons butter J4 clove garlic (if desired)

3 pints beef stock 2 tablespoons chopped parsley

3 tablespoons grated cheese Y^ loaf French bread

Slice onions and put them into a stew-pan with butter. Stir
and fry slowly until softened and slightly browned. Add beef
stock, boil ten minutes, skim, season, and add parsky and
garlic. Cut the bread into thin slices, dry in the oven a few
minutes, pour soup into a low earthen casserole, put bread on
top, sprinkle with grated cheese, and set in a very hot oven
(450° -5 00° F.) just long enough to brown the cheese.

ONION STEW OR DUTCH BROTH

6 onions 3 tablespoons flour

5 tablespoons butter 2 cups scalded milk

3 cups cold water Salt and cayenne
1 egg-yolk

Chop the onions and cook them in two tablespoons of the
butter for five minutes, then add water and cook thirty minutes.
Press through a sieve. Make a roux of the remaining butter
and the flour, combine it with the scalded milk and add season-
ing. Cook ^YQ minutes, stirring constantly. Add this milk
mixture to the onion mixture. Mix thoroughly and add the
^gg-yoll^> slightly beaten. Serve individually in Dutch bowls
and place one teaspoon of grated Edam cheese on the top. Set
for a few minutes in a hot oven to melt the cheese.

176

Thick Soups, Chowders and Stews

Cream Soups

Cream soups are made by combining a very thin white sauce,
see page 308, with a suitable quantity of cooked, mashed,
strained vegetable, fish or meat pulp. Irradiated evaporated milk
used instead of white sauce will greatly increase the food value
and when used for making white sauce will increase the flavor.
Flavor is improved, too, by the use of some highly flavored
vegetables or the addition of a proportion of soup stock.

Purees

Purees are made in the same way as cream soups, but are
somewhat thicker. They are often served under the name of
"Cream Soup."

Bisques

The name bisque is usually given to a cream soup made from
fish, and the fish is often diced or mashed through a coarse
strainer. A familiar example of an exception in the use of
the word is mock bisque soup, or tomato bisque, as it is often
called.

Chowders

Chowders were probably the common ancestors of the more
refined cream soups, purees, and bisques. The word chowder
comes from the French chaudiere, meaning caldron. The
chowder originated as a community fish stew to which each
neighbor contributed something; milk, fish, potatoes, crackers,
pork or some seasoning. These contributions were all cooked
together in the common caldron, from which chowder derives
its name, and each contributor withdrew his share of soup when
it was ready.

The chowder of today is much the same as the old chowder,
and consists of pieces of different vegetables or of fish and po-
tatoes and various seasonings cooked in milk with crackers added
just before serving.

Fish Stews

Fish stews are made of milk and the juice of the fish which
gives flavor to the soup. They differ from the cream soups in

SOUPS 177

that they need not be thickened, though they often are, and
from the chowders in being less complex in composition.

Binding Thick Soups

When a vegetable, meat or fish pulp is combined with milk
or stock in making soups, they separate and the solid substance
sinks to the bottom of the liquid. Some flour or corn-starch
cooked into the mixture will overcome this. With many of
these soups the reason for using the flour or corn-starch may
not necessarily be to thicken a soup which the vegetable, meat
or fish pulp has already made thick enough, but to blend the
liquid with the solid so that all parts of the soup will have the
same consistency.

Flour or corn-starch may be mixed with enough cold liquid
— ^milk, water, or stock — to make a creamy thickness and added
carefully to the soup; or it may be combined with the soup
by means of a roux (see Index) . When a colored roux is de-
sired the fat is browned before the flour is added and the mix-
ture is cooked to a reddish brown color. When a roux is made
in this way, the liquid is usually added to it gradually.

Preventing Skin on Cream Soups

A cream or milk soup has a tendency to form a skin on the
top as it cools. If it is beaten just before it is served, the froth
protects it against skin formation.

A spoonful of whipped cream or beaten egg-white served
on top of each portion of cream soup aids in preventing the skin
formation and adds to the delicacy and attractiveness of the
dish.

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING A STANDARD
CREAM SOUP

4 cups milk or part milk and 2 cups vegetable pulp or meat

part stock or fish pulp

2 tablespoons flour Salt, pepper, other

2 tablespoons fat seasonings

1. Make a white sauce of the liquid, flour, and fat.

2. Cook the vegetables or meat or fish until tender, drainj
and mash through a sieve.

178

3. Combine the vegetable, meat, or fish pulp with the white
sauce.

4. Season, beat with an egg-beater, and serve. A tiny portion
of whipped cream or beaten egg-white may be served on top
of each portion.

The amount of flour may be increased for purees and bisques.

VARIATIONS OF CREAM SOUP

Cream of Asparagus or Cream of Celery Soup — ^Follow
directions for making a standard cream soup.

Cream of Corn Soup

5 cups corn, canned or fresh 2 tablespoons butter

5 cups milk or part milk and Salt and pepper

part white stock 2 egg-yolks

2 tablespoons flour

Put the corn into a double boiler with one quart of the milk
and cook for twenty minutes. Make a white sauce of the milk
and corn, flour, and fat, add salt and pepper and cook five
minutes. Rub the soup through a strainer, beat the yolks of the
eggs well, and add to them the remaining cup of cold milk;
stir this mixture into the soup, cook for a minute or two, stirring
constantly. Beat and serve at once.

Cream of Mushroom Soup

Yx pound mushrooms (or skin 2 tablespoons flour

and stems of Yz pound) 1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons butter 1 pint milk

Brush, wash and skin the mushrooms. Put the skins to sim-
mer in a little water. Cut the mushroom caps and stems into
very small pieces; add one pint of water and simmer until
tender. Make a sauce of the fat, flour, salt and milk and add
the water in which the mushroom caps, stems and skin were
cooked.

Cream of Onion and Potato Soup

3 cups scalded milk 4 medium potatoes

1 cup potato water 4 onions

2 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
2 tablespoons butter Salt and pepper

Boil the potatoes and onions together, until tender. Drain.
Save the water and rub the vegetables through a coarse strainer.

SOUPS 179

Make a white sauce of the liquid, flour, and fat and combine
with the potato and onion pulp. Season with chopped parsley,
salt and pepper. Beat with an egg-beater and serve with crou-
tons.

Cream of Pea Soup — ^Follow directions for making a stand-
ard cream soup, but keep one cup of the cooked peas whole
and add them to the soup just before serving.

Cream of Spinach Soup — Follow directions for making a
standard cream soup.

Cream of Tomato Soup

1 quart milk or half milk and 1 pint tomatoes
half white stock Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons flour J4 teaspoon soda

2 tablespoons butter

Make a white sauce of the liquid, flour, and butter. Cook
the tomatoes until tender, and mash through a coarse sieve.
Just before serving, add the soda to the tomatoes and gradually
add the tomatoes to the white sauce, stirring constantly. Season
and serve at once. If soup begins to curdle, beat thoroughly
with egg-beater.

Purees
PUREE OF ONION

3 large or 6 small onions 2 or 3 tablespoons butter or
2 cups white stock other fat

2 cups milk Salt and pepper

2 or 3 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon chopped parsley

Make a white sauce with stock, milk, flour, and butter. Cook
onions in water until very tender. Drain, and rub through a
sieve. Combine onion and sauce. Season with salt, pepper,
and chopped parsley. Beat with egg-beater and serve.

Use three tablespoons flour when increased thickness is de-
sired.

FISH PUREE

1 quart milk 4 tablespoons butter or

1 small onion, minced other fat

4 tablespoons flour 2 cups cooked fish

Salt and pepper

Scald the minced onion in milk. Make a white sauce of the

i8o

milk, flour, and butter. Rub the cooked fish through a sieve.
Combine the fish and sauce. Season and serve.

PUREE OF PEAS AND TOMATOES

Yz pound dried yellow split 1 or 2 celery tops

peas Salt and pepper

1 pint tomatoes 1 tablespoon flour

1 quart water 1 tablespoon butter

1 onion

Soak peas over night in water enough to cover them three or
four inches. Drain, and put into a saucepan with the tomatoes,
water, sliced onion, and celery tops. Cook until the peas are
tender. Mash through a sieve. Season with salt and pepper.
Bind with a roux made of the flour and butter, and serve,
garnished with a thin slice of tomato or lemon and a few
canned peas if available. Serve with bread croutons.

SPLIT PEA OR LIMA BEAN PUREE

1 cup split peas or dried lima 2 tablespoons butter or
beans other fat

2 quarts water Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon flour Celery salt

1 teaspoon onion-juice

Soak peas or beans all night, then put them over the fire with
water and bring to a boil. Cook slowly, until soft. Rub
through a sieve, heat, and thicken with roux of flour and
fat. Season with salt, pepper, celery salt, and onion-juice.
Stir or beat until smooth and serve with croutons.

Cold Fruit Purees

In hot weather, cold fruit purees are sometimes preferred to
hot soups. They are always served in cups, usually of glass,
and with a few pieces of the fruit floating on the surface. They
should be thoroughly chilled. The trays of the mechanical
refrigerator are excellent for this purpose. These fruit purees
are really as closely related to the appetizers as to the soups.

SOUPS i8i

CHERRY PUREE

Juice from 1 quart of tart 2 teaspoons arrowroot

cherries, freshly stewed or Grated rind of 1 lemon

canned

Heat the juice from the cherries. Add arrowroot moistened
with cold water, stirring the mixture rapidly to prevent the
forming of lumps. Flavor with the grated lemon-rind. Serve
very cold, with a whole cherry floating on each portion.

ORANGE PUREE

2 cups orange-juice Yz cup sugar

1 teaspoon corn-starch 1 teaspoon grated orange-

2 tablespoons cold water rind

Place orange- juice in saucepan and when it is thoroughly
heated add the corn-starch mixed with the cold water. Cook
slowly until clear. Add sugar and grated orange-rind. Serve
ice-cold in glass sherbet cups.

RASPBERRY PUREE

Yz cup granulated tapioca 2 cups raspberries

6 cups water Sugar

Yz cup currant-juice

Boil tapioca in water and currant- juice. When tapioca is
transparent, add raspberries and sugar to taste. Set aside to
cool. Serve ice-cold in sherbet-glasses.

Bisques
BISQUE OF CLAMS

24 clams in the shell 2 cups water

2 cups rich milk or white 1 tablespoon chopped celery

.> stock or part of each 1 teaspoon chopped parsley

i 1 tablespoon butter Salt and pepper

\ 1 tablespoon flour

Make a white sauce of the milk, flour, and butter. Scrub the
clams thoroughly, then pack into pot with a tight-fitting lid,
using Y2 cup water to steam. When all have popped open,

l82

remove, cool in their own liquor. Detach clams from shells, put
through food chopper and add strained liquor. Add water,
chopped celery and parsley and cook ten minutes. Press through
a sieve and add to the white sauce. Season, beat with an egg-
beater, and serve.

BISQUE OF LOBSTER

1 medium-sized lobster 1 cup cold water

1 quart milk Red pepper

4 tablespoons butter Salt and pepper
4 tablespoons flour

Make a white sauce of the milk, flour, and butter. Re-
move meat from freshly boiled lobster. Reserve the coral and
the green fat. Put the cold water into a kettle and add the
broken claws and shell and the finely chopped tail meat. Bring
to the simmering-point and simmer for twenty minutes. Drain,
and stir into the white sauce. Add the remainder of the lobster
meat, cut in dice. Season with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Just
before serving, add the coral mashed to a paste with the green
fat. Mix thoroughly, reheat, and serve with croutons.

BISQUE OF OYSTERS

1 pint oysters 1 slice onion, chopped fine

2 cups milk 1 stalk celery, diced

1 cup stale bread-crumbs 1 stalk parsley, chopped fine

1 tablespoon flour 1 bay-leaf

1 tablespoon butter Salt and pepper

2 cups water

Scald the milk, add the bread-crumbs and cook in a double
boiler for twenty minutes. Rub through a sieve. Make a
white sauce of the milk and crumb mixture and the flour and
butter. Chop the oysters, put them in a saucepan with their
own liquor, the water and the chopped vegetables and herbs.
Simmer for twenty or thirty minutes. Rub through a fine
sieve and combine with the white sauce mixture. More milk
or cream may be added if the bisque is very thick. Season and
serve.

SOUPS 183

MOCK BISQUE OR TOMATO BISQUE SOUP

2 cups raw or canned toma- Bit of bay-leaf

toes y^ cup stale bread crumbs

2 teaspoons sugar 4 cups milk

J/3 teaspoon soda ^2 tablespoon salt

Yz onion stuck with 6 cloves Y^ teaspoon pepper

Sprig of parsley Y2, cup butter

Scald milk with bread crumbs, onion, parsley, and bay leaf.
Remove seasonings and rub through a sieve. Cook tomatoes
with sugar fifteen minutes, add soda and rub through a sieve.
Reheat bread and milk to boiling-point, add tomatoes, and pour
at once into tureen over butter, salt, and pepper. Serve with
croutons or crisp crackers.

Chowders
CLAM CHOWDER

50 clams Y2 teaspoon thyme ■

4 ounces salt pork 3 potatoes

1 medium-sized onion 1 pint milk

2 tablespoons flour Y2 teaspoon pepper
Yz teaspoon salt 3 pilot biscuit

Put clams, with their own liquor, into a granite-ware sauce-
pan, and when they have come to a boil skim out the clams and
return liquid to the fire. Cut the salt pork into thin slices,
chop the onion, and saute the two together until brown. Stir
in flour, and when mixture is bubbling slowly, add the clam
liquor. Season with salt, white pepper, and thyme. Add po-
tatoes which have been cut into small cubes, and cook this
mixture until the potatoes are tender. Just before serving, add
milk, clams cut into pieces, and three large pilot biscuit or a
larger number of hard water-crackers, as preferred. If liked
thicker, blend one tablespoon of butter or other fat with the
same of flour, and add gradually.

To make Rhode Island clam chowder, add tomatoes, either
canned or fresh.

i84

CORN CHOWDER

2 slices fat salt pork 2 cups boiling water

1 onion 1 cup cooked corn, fresh

3 cups diced boiled potatoes or canned
Salt and pepper 4 cups hot milk

Cut the pork into small pieces and try it out. In this cook
the sliced onion. Strain the fat into another receptacle, and put
the potatoes into the strained fat. Add boiling water, corn
which has been cooked till tender, and hot milk. Season with
salt and white pepper, bring to the boiling-point, and serve with
a cracker on each soup-plate.

FISH CHOWDER

54 pound fat salt pork, sliced 3 cups boiling water

2 cups raw fish, cut in dice 1 pint milk

6 small potatoes, sliced 3 pilot biscuit

2 onions, chopped fine

Fry salt pork in a deep kettle. When crisp remove pieces of
pork and put fish, potatoes and onions in kettle. Cover with
the boiling water. Simmer one-half hour, or until the potato
is tender. Add the milk and cook five minutes longer. Season
with salt and pepper. Just before serving, add the pilot biscuit.

OYSTER CHOWDER

1 quart oysters . 2 tablespoons butter or

6 potatoes other fat

1 onion 1 tablespoon flour

1 cup water Salt and pepper

3 cups milk 3 pilot biscuit

Drain the oysters, and remove any particles of shell. Strain
the liquor through a fine wire sieve. Slice the potatoes and
onion thin and boil them in the oyster liquor and water until
tender but not mushy. Make a white sauce with the fat, flour,
and milk, put the oysters into it, and cook two minutes. Com-
bine white sauce with potatoes and onion and the liquor in
which they have been cooked. Season to taste with salt and
pepper. Place the pilot biscuit in the hot tureen. Pour the
chowder over them, and serve.

SOUPS 185

CLAM STEW

Make in same way as oyster stew, using clams.

CRAB STEW

6 hard-shell crabs 1 pint rich milk

1 tablespoon butter 1 quart water

1 tablespoon flour Sak and pepper

1 onion Parsley

Boil the crabs. Remove the meat and saute it in butter
with one small onion. Cook until the onion is quite brown.
Add flour, salt, and pepper, cook a little longer, then add water
and minced parsley. Simmer ten minutes, add milk and reheat.

OYSTER STEW

Unthickened

1 pint oysters Sak, pepper, paprika

4 tablespoons butter 1 quart rich milk

Put cleaned oysters, strained oyster liquor, butter and season-
ing into a saucepan and simmer gently until oysters begin to
curl at the edges. At the same time, heat the milk, being care-
ful not to scorch it. Add the hot milk to the oysters and oyster
liquor and serve at once.

Thickened — To the ingredients given above, add from four
to eight tablespoons of flour, and, if desired, a little onion-juice
and mace. Scald the oysters in their own liquor. Make a white
sauce of the milk, flour and butter and season as desired. Com-
bine the scalded oysters and oyster liquor with the white sauce
and serve at once.

YEAST BOUILLON

In recent years several varieties of autolyzed yeast have ap-
peared on the market to be used as bouillon or in sandwich
pastes. They have the flavor of strong meat extract but have
the advantage of being of pure vegetable origin. If purchased
in jars use according to direction. When in cubes use like any
other bouillon cube. Of peculiar value for the high content of
vitamins B and G, it is also called petite marmite.

SOUP ACCESSORIES

SOUP may be served with many accompaniments, such as
crisped crackers, cheese-sticks and pulled bread; and va-
rieties of croutons, forcemeat balls, noodles, and vegetable
pastes may be placed in the soup itself. Grated Parmesan
cheese is passed with many kinds of soup to be sprinkled on
each portion.

Recipes for some of the best-liked accompaniments for soup
are given below.

CROUTONS

Cut stale bread into slices about one-third of an inch thick,
and remove all crust. Spread with butter, cut in cubes and
bake in the oven until delicately browned. If preferred, these
cubes of bread may be fried in deep fat or sauted in just enough
fat to keep them from burning. Put into soup at time of serv-
ing, or pass in a separate dish, permitting each person to put as
many croutons as he may wish in his portion of soup.

MOCK ALMONDS

These are merely croutons shaped to represent almonds.

CHEESE STICKS AND ROLLS

Cut bread in long, narrow strips, spread with butter, then
with a thick coating of grated cheese. Brown in moderate oven
(350° F.). Or cut crust from sliced bread, spread thickly with
paste of grated cheese and butter, roll, fasten with toothpick
and brown as above.

HOT CRISPED CRACKERS

Toast thin wafers or crackers for three minutes in a hot oven
(400° -42 5° F.). They are better if spread with a thin film
of butter before being put into the oven. If Boston crackers
are preferred, split them, arrange the halves, rough side up, on
a plate, lay a bit of butter on each, and brown them in the
oven.

186

SOUP ACCESSORIES 187

VARIATIONS

Use the cookie cutters in any small design to cut sliced bread
for toasting on a cookie sheet or large pan. Or use the cutters
on biscuit dough and bake or fry in deep fat,

NOODLES

1 egg Yz teaspoon salt Flour

Stir sufficient flour into a slightly beaten egg to make a very
stiff dough. Add salt, knead, and roll as thin as possible. It
should be of almost paperlike thinness. Cover with a towel
and let remain untouched for half an hour. Then cut in small
fancy shapes, and dry them. When needed, place in boiling
water and cook rapidly for fifteen minutes. This dough may
also be rolled into threads and used like macaroni in soup.

Noodle Balls — Roll the noodle paste as directed above,
fold it double and with a tin cutter make circles about one-
fourth inch in diameter. Toss these balls into hot fat, (360°-
370° F.) using a wire frying-basket. In about a minute they
will turn a delicate brown and puff into balls. Drain on soft
paper and serve with soup. As these soften quickly, it is better
not to put them in the tureen, but to pass them after the soup
has been served.

EGG BALLS

No. 1.

5 eggs 1 teaspoon salt

Yz teaspoon pepper Flour

Simmer four of the eggs in the shell twenty minutes and
mash the yolks to a smooth paste in a bowl; then add the salt
and pepper and the other egg, well beaten. Shape the mass into
tiny balls, roll them in flour and saute, tossing them about while
frying to prevent their sticking to the pan. They may be made
some time before needed. Use the hard-cooked egg-whites for
a sandwich or a salad.

No. 2.

Mash the four cooked yolks to a paste, season, and mix with
the uncooked egg-yolk. Form into small balls. Roll them in
the uncooked egg-white, then in flour, and poach in hot water.
These are attractive in consomme.

WITH A LITTLE TIME YOU CAN
ROLL YOUR CHEESE STICKS OR
SANDWICHES

K^.

i88

MARROW AND LIVER BALLS

2 tablespoons melted marrow Salt and pepper

1 egg Paprika

y2 cup soft bread-crumbs l/g teaspoon onion juice

Strain melted marrow through cheese-cloth, beat until creamy
and then add beaten egg. Season with salt, pepper and paprika,
add a little moist bread, and form into balls. Poach in boiling
water. Use 1 cup chopped liver instead of marrow for liver balls.

PATE A CHOUX

1 teaspoon butter 1 egg
lYz teaspoons milk Salt
^ cup flour

Heat butter and milk together. When at the boiUng-point,
add the flour and a pinch of salt, stirring constantly. Remove
from the fire, beat in the unbeaten egg, and continue beating
until the egg is well mixed with the other ingredients. When
cool, drop small pieces from the tip of a teaspoon into deep,
boiling fat. When brown and crisp, drain on absorbent paper.
If desired, two tablespoons of grated Parmesan cheese may be
added to this recipe.

CUSTARD FOR GARNISHING

Allow two tablespoons of milk, cream, or consomme to each
egg. Mix well, season with salt and pepper, and pour into a
buttered mold, making the custard one-half inch thick. Set
the mold in a pan containing hot water and place in a slow oven
(300°-350° F.). When the custard is set, remove from the
oven and cool. Cut it into small pieces or fancy shapes. The
egg-white, the egg-yolk or the whole egg may be used in mak-
ing this custard.

Custard Roy ale.

2 egg-yolks Salt and pepper
1 egg Cayenne

Yz cup beef stock

Beat the yolks of the eggs slightly and then beat into them
the one whole egg. Add beef stock, a little salt, pepper and a

SOUP ACCESSORIES 189

few grains of cayenne. Pour the mixture into a shallow pan
or dish, so that the custard will be about one-half inch deep.
Set this pan into another holding water that is just below the
boiling-point and place both in a slow oven (300° -3 50° F.).
The custard should set without bubbling and without forming
a brown crust on top. When cold, cut in fancy shapes with
vegetable-cutter. Use care in placing these in the soup, so that
they may not break. When used in consomme, they give the
name *'Consomme Royale" to the soup.

CHICKEN FORCEMEAT

White —

2 breasts chicken (uncooked) 1 cup milk

Yz teaspoon salt Yz blade mace

1 cup dry bread-crumbs ^ teaspoon pepper

3 tablespoons butter 2 egg-whites

Chop, pound and rub through a puree-sieve, the uncooked
breasts of chicken. There should be a full half-pint of meat.
Add salt and pepper. Boil together the bread-crumbs (no
crusts), milk and mace for ten minutes, or until cooked to a
smooth paste. Remove from the fire, put in butter and then
add the seasoned meat and the well-beaten whites of eggs. Stir
until all ingredients are thoroughly blended.

Dark — Use dark meat instead of light and the yolks of the
eggs instead of whites. Chicken livers, also, may be used for
forcemeat.

FISH FORCEMEAT

Free any kind of delicate fish from skin, fat and bone.
Pound, strain, use one-half pint fish and proceed as for chicken
forcemeat.

OYSTER FORCEMEAT

12 oysters Cayenne

2 cups dry bread-crumbs 1 teaspoon parsley

3 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon lemon-juice

2 egg-yolks 3 tablespoons oyster-juice

1 teaspoon salt Nutmeg

Chop the oysters fine and add the bread-crumbs, butter, salt,
cayenne, minced parsley, lemon- juice, oyster- juice,^ the yolks
of raw eggs and a grating of nutmeg. Pound to a smooth

190

paste and rub through a puree-sieve. Add more salt if neces-
sary. This is a fine forcemeat for timbales, or for stuffing
poiiltry or fish. For use in soups, it may be made into balls,
dipped in beaten egg-yolks, then in bread-crumbs and fried, or
rolled into very small balls, dipped in egg-yolks and browned
in the oven.

Quenelles — ^These are shapes made by forcing forcemeat
through a pastry bag and tube into boiling water or stock.
They are used to garnish entrees as well as soups.

COLORING FOR SOUPS AND SAUCES

To color brown, use browned flour or a little burnt sugar.
(See Index for caramel recipe) or a few drops of commercial
vegetable flavoring.

Spinach leaves give a fine green color. Pound the uncooked
leaves, and add to soup five minutes before serving.

^ i^ Wi^

Aiffiti rt,

V w : IP 1^ ^ 91

FISH

THE main difference between fish from fresh water and
those from salt water, as food, is that the salt-water fish
are an important source of bromin and iodin in the diet,
and are considered desirable because of the value of iodin in
preventing goiter. Some of the most common salt-water fish
are cod, haddock, halibut, smelt, mackerel, salmon, shad,
herring, oysters, clams, scallops, lobsters, crabs, shrimps and
prawns, and some terrapins. Fish as food may be divided into:

White Fish — Fish that have less than two per cent fat,
examples of which are smelt, flounder, yellow perch, pike,
pickerel, sea bass, cod and haddock.

Medium Fat Fish — ^Fish that have two to £yq per cent fat,
examples of which are weakfish, brook trout, mullet, and white
perch.

Fat or Oily Fish — ^Fish that contain five per cent or more
of fat, examples of which are salmon, shad, herring, lake trout,
bluefish, Spanish mackerel, butterfish, and eels.

Shellfish — ^Mollusks (oysters, clams, scallops and mussels) ;
crustaceans (lobsters, crabs, shrimps, prawns, crawfish or cray-
fish) ; reptiles (frogs, terrapins and turtles. The reptiles really
belong to a lower order of animal than fish, but as they spend
some time in the water they are discussed in this chapter.).

Amount of Fish to Buy

If the fish bought is solid flesh, one-third of a pound should
be allowed for each person. If fish is bought in the round
(with bones, head, tail, etc.) at least one-half pound must be
bought for each person.

Selecting and Caring for Fish

Fresh and Frozen Fish — Fresh fish, or fish that was frozen
while fresh, has full or bulging bright eyes, bright red gills,
firm and elastic flesh and fresh odor. Be sure that the flesh
along the back-bone smells fresh; it spoils there first. Fresh
fish sinks in fresh water. If it floats, it should not be used.

191

192

As soon as fish comes from the market, clean it and put it
into the refrigerator or other cool place until it is needed.

Fish that is frozen immediately after it is caught, and is
kept frozen until the time for cooking does not lose its flavor.
It is preferable to clean and draw it without thawing, but if
it is too hard to handle soak in cold water or allow to thaw in the
refrigerator overnight until just flexible. Skinning is some-
times easier than scaling. Then it should be cooked at once with-
out further thawing. Quick frozen fish on the market today
is cleaned and ready for use. Cook at once without thawing,
allowing only slightly more than the usual time allotted to
broiling or baking as the case may be.

Cleaning and Dressing Fish

Although fish may have been cleaned and dressed at the
market, they are likely to need additional cleaning before they
are cooked. If any scales have been left on a fish that is to be
cooked with the skin on, remove them with a dull knife (a
sharp one might cut the skin) . Draw the knife over the fish,
from tail to head, slanting it toward the body of the fish at an
angle of about 45°. If the fish is to be split, remove the head
and tail. "Wash quickly under cold running water and wipe
the fish thoroughly, inside as well as outside, with a wet cloth.
Then wipe with a clean dry cloth and keep on a plate in a cold
place until ready to use.

To Skin a Fish

Remove the fins, cut off a strip of skin along the backbone,
and cut the skin around the gills. Pull the skin off with the
hand. If the flesh is soft, work slowly and closely follow the
skin with the knife, to avoid tearing the flesh.

To Bone and Fillet a Fish

Clean and skin the fish. Insert a sharp knife close to the
backbone at the tail end, and cut the flesh from the bone, work-
ing toward the head and keeping the knife as close as possible
to the bone. Small bones that adhere to the flesh or are em-
bedded in it must be removed with the fingers.

Large fish, such as cod and halibut, are easily boned; in fact.

PISH 193

they are usually purchased in slices. Fish with many bones,
like shad, can not be boned satisfactorily.

Flounders are often boned, to form fillets, and are served as
"fillets of sole." The English sole is seldom imported, and most
of the **fillet of sole*' that is served in America is made from
the flounder, which has a white, delicate flesh similar to the
sole.

A fillet is merely a piece of fish without skin and bones.
Fillets look better on the serving platter if they are approxi-
mately the same size. Rolled fillets are called turbans. They
are fastened with wooden toothpicks to keep them in shape
during cooking, but the picks are removed before the fish is
served.

Salted, Smoked and Canned Fish

These may be had the year around. The following varieties
are likely to be in any market:

Dried Salt FiSH---Cod, haddock, hake, pollack, and whit-
ing.

Brine-salted Fish — Herring, mackerel, mullet, salmon,
shad.

Smoked Fish — Carp, catfish, eel, finnan haddie, hake, hali-
but, lake trout, pollack, salmon, sturgeon, whitefish.

Canned Fish — Cod, haddock, herring, mackerel, salmon,
sardines, tunafish, oysters, shrimps, lobsters, clams.

Pickled Fish — Sardines, eels, sturgeon, oysters, clams, scal-
lops, lobsters and mussels.

To Freshen Salt Fish

Place the fish flesh side down in a large pan of fresh water, set
the pan in a cool place and let it soak from one to forty-eight
hours, changing the water several times. If the fish is to be
cooked in liquid, it will need a shorter time in water than if it is
to be cooked with very little moisture.

Boiled Fish

For boiling a large fish whole, a fish-kettle with strainer, a
large kettle with a wire frying-basket or a steamer is needed.
A plate in a piece of coarse muslin or cheese-cloth, kept for

194

this purpose, may be used for fish in small pieces. Clean the
fish, rub a little salt over it, wrap it in a cloth and place it in
the container in which it is to be boiled or steamed.

The fish must not be put into cold water, as that extracts
the flavor, nor into boiling water, as that breaks the skin, but
should be put into hot water, which may then be quickly
brought to the boiling-point. After the water boils, decrease
the heat so that it will simmer.

Use enough water to cover the fish, add one teaspoon of salt
and one tablespoon of vinegar or lemon- juice to every two
quarts of water. These whiten the flesh and make it firm as
well as season it. After the water begins to simmer, allow five
to ten minutes to the pound for small thin pieces and ten to
fifteen minutes to the pound for large thick pieces.

Fish That Are Good Boiled

With Suggestions for Sauces and Garnishes

Fish

Sauce

Garnish

Codfish

Butter sauce, caper
sauce, oyster sauce,
shrimp sauce

Parsley or cress

Flounder

Bechamel sauce

Chopped parsley

Haddock

Egg sauce

Parsley or cress

Halibut

Bechamel sauce, creamy
sauce, egg sauce, Hol-
landaise sauce

Parsley or cress

Mackerel

Caper sauce, parsley
sauce

Salmon

Egg sauce, Hollandaise
sauce, Tartar sauce

Cress, lemon, pars

Sheepshead

Drawn-butter sauce

Parsley and lemon

Snapper (red)

Mushroom sauce, tomato
sauce

Parsley

Sole (flounder)

Bechamel sauce

Parsley

Trout

Horseradish sauce

If you wish to serve a whole boiled fish upright, as if swim-
ming, place a carrot inside the fish to make it retain its form,
and arrange the garnishings so that it will keep its position on
the platter. Bind the fish to the strainer with twine when
cooking. A fish retains shape and flavor better in a steamer
than when immersed in water.

FISH 195

To steam, place the fish on a plate in the upper part of a
steamer, allowing the same time as for boiling.

Boiled fish needs a rich sauce, such as egg sauce, Hollandaise,
Bechamel or drawn butter.

Fresh-water fish or other fish without much flavor may be
boiled in court bouillon (See Index). Stock in which fish has
been cooked may be made into fish chowder (See Index).

PICKLED SALMON

4 to 5 pounds salmon 1 grated nutmeg

2 quarts vinegar 6 blades mace

1 ounce peppercorns 1 tablespoon salad oil

Wrap the salmon in a fish-cloth and simmer in salted water
about three-fourths of an hour. Drain, wrap in a dry cloth
and set in a cold place till ready to use. For the pickle, use one
quart of the water in which the salmon was cooked, the vine-
gar, peppercorns, grated nutmeg and mace. Boil for a few
minutes, in a kettle closely covered to prevent evaporation of
the flavor. Cool. When quite cold, pour over the salmon;
then pour in the oil. Cover closely and place in a dry cool
place. This pickle will keep many months.

BONED HERRINGS

6 large herrings Parsley

Pepper Vinegar

Salt 6 slices buttered toast

Select fish with roes. Split, wash, scrape and remove heads,
roe, and backbone. Sprinkle generously with pepper, salt, and
minced parsley, then roll each piece tightly, beginning with the
neck, and tie with a string. Put into boiling water that is
seasoned with pepper, salt and vinegar and simmer ten or fifteen
minutes. Cut the roe in pieces and fry. Place the fish and roe
on buttered toast, garnish and serve.

Broiled Fish

To broil a whole fish, split the fish down the back, dry
thoroughly, sprinkle with salt, pepper and lemon-juice. Place
fish, flesh side down, on a well-greased wire broiler. Turn and
broil on skin side just enough to crisp the skin. Large fish are
cut into slices one inch thick, and broiled on both sides evenly.

196

Fish That Are Good Broiled

With Suggestions for Sauces and Garnishes

Fish Sauce

Black Bass (split) Melted butter
Melted butter
Tomato sauce,
sauce

Cod (sliced)
Flounder (split
or filleted)

Halibut (sliced)

lemon

Mackerel (split)
Pompano (split)
Salmon (sliced)
Shad (split)
Smelts (whole)

Butter sauce, HoUan-
daise sauce, oyster
sauce

Maitre d'hotel sauce,
lemon sauce

Maitre d'hotel sauce

Garnish

Lemon and parsley

Lemon

Parsley

Parsley, lemon

Lemon, cucumber,

parsley
Cucumber, cress or

lettuce salad
Chopped parsley

Parsley and radishes

Parsley

Anchovy sauce, caper

sauce
Maitre d'hotel sauce,

butter sauce
Remoulade sauce,

Bechamel sauce
Swordfish (sliced) Horseradish sauce

BROILED SMELTS

12 smelts 1 tablespoon salt

3 tablespoons butter Yz tablespoon pepper

1 tablespoon lemon-juice 3 tablespoons flour

Small smelts are not always split open and cleaned, but the
entrails are squeezed out carefully so as not to bruise the fish,,
and the heads are sometimes left on. When the smelts are
large, however, cutting down the belly to remove entrails is
more satisfactory. Put butter, lemon-juice, salt and pepper in
a deep plate on the back of the stove where the fat will slowly
melt. On another plate, place the flour. Wash and wipe the
fish and roll it in the melted, seasoned fat, and then lightly in
the flour. Arrange on a double broiler and cook four or five
minutes over clear coals. Serve on a warm dish with remoulade
sauce.

Baked Fish

Whole Large Fish — ^Dress and stuff the fish (See chapter
"Stuffings for Fish, Meat, Poultry and Game.") and sew up
the opening with a trussing-needle. If a white or medium fat

TYING J^IATE AND SALMON IN
CHEISfClOfHWMEN BOILING.

WHETHER BAKED OR PLANKED, ONLY

CAREFUL HANDLING

WILL BRING FISH

TO THE TABLE iJ

LOOKING

ITS BEST

'Sfeff

THE LORDLY LOBSTER 1111111
CRAT OF THE FESTIVii 1^^

FISH

197

fish is used, cut three or more slits in its sides and insert a strip
of salt pork in each. Fat fish needs no larding, it has fat enough
in itself.

Place a cloth or a rack in the bottom of a baking-pan. Upon
the cloth place a thin layer of minced salt pork and a few slices
of onion and tomato. Upon these place the fish itself. Dredge
with salt, pepper and flour and lay on more salt pork; place in
a hot oven (425° F.) add a cup of boiling water and cover.
Cook fifteen to twenty minutes to each pound, basting fre-
quently, adding water after each basting if necessary. After
the first fifteen or twenty minutes reduce the heat to 3 50° F.
Milk may be used instead of water in baking dry fish steaks. If
a dripping-pan is used, it is not necessary to add water, and fish
has more flavor if cooked without water.

Small Fish or Fillets — Follow directions for whole large
fish, allowing a total baking period of twenty to thirty minutes.

Fish That Are Good Baked Whole

With Suggestions for Stuffings, Sauces and Garnishes.

Fish

Stuffing

Sauce

Garnish

Bass (sea)

Bread stuffing

Tomato sauce

Tomato and

No. 1 or 2

parsley

Bluefish

Bread stuffing

Sauce made by

Parsley and lem-

No. 1 or 2

boiling the stock
in pan plus one
large tablespoon
catchup and one
tablespoon
browned flour
mixed with cold
water

on slices

Cod

Oyster stuffing

Oyster sauce

Lemon

Haddock

Pickle-caper

Drawn butter, egg,

Lemon and pars-

sauce, Hollan-

ley

daise sauce

Mackerel

Pickle-caper

Lemon

Shad

Bread stuffing
No. 1 or 2

Lemon, tomatoes

Tilefish

Bread stuffing

Maitre d ' h 6 1 e 1

Parsley

No. 1 or 2

sauce

Weakfish

Bread stuffing
No. 1 or 2

Lemon-juice

Whitefish

Bread stuffing
No. 1 or 2

Egg sauce

Egg

198

Fish That Are Good Baked in Steaks, Cutlets or Fillets
With Suggestions for Sauces and Garnishes.

parsley

Fish

Sauce

Garnisl

Cusk

Lemon

Flounder

Egg sauce

Egg

Haddock

Oyster sauce

Lemon

Halibut

Brown, Hollandalse,
tomato or mush-

Tomatoes, peas, p

room sauce

•♦

Mackerel

(horse)

Lemon

Salmon

Lemon sauce

Parsley and lemon

Sturgeon

Drawn butter

Parsley and lemon

Tile

Tomato sauce

FILLET OF FLOUNDER AU GRATIN

5 pounds flounder 2 cups chicken stock

2 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon lemon-juice

3 tablespoons butter 1 slice onion

1 cup fine bread-crumbs Salt and pepper

1 bay-leaf

Fillet and cut the fish into pieces about four inches long by
three wide. Oil a baking or gratin dish and lay the fillets in it.
Sprinkle salt and pepper over them and set in a cool place till
needed.

Rub together flour and butter; add onion, bay-leaf, chicken
stock, and salt and pepper as needed. Simmer gently twenty
minutes and then add lemon-juice, strain the sauce and pour
it over the fish. Season lightly with salt and pepper, sprinkle
bread-crumbs over the sauce and fish. Bake twenty minutes in
a hot oven (425 ° F.) and serve at once in the same dish.

HALIBUT CREOLE

2 pounds halibut 1 slice onion

2 cups stewed tomatoes 2 tablespoons butter
1 cup water 1 tablespoon flour

3 cloves Salt and pepper

Put the tomatoes, water, cloves and onion on the stove in a
Stewpan to boil. Mix the butter and flour together, stir them
into the sauce when it boils and add the salt and pepper. Cook
ten minutes and strain into a bowl.

FISH 199

Pour boiling water into a deep plate to the depth of one-
half inch, and lay the fish in it for one minute, skin side down;
when the fish is removed from the water, the black skin can
be taken off easily. Wash the fish in cold water, season with
salt and pepper and lay it on the baking sheet in a dripping-
pan, put sliced lemon on top, then pour half the tomato sauce
around the fish and bake in a hot to moderate oven (425° to
350° F.) for thirty to forty minutes, basting three times with
the remainder of the tomato sauce. Pour the sauce remaining
in the bottom of the pan around the fish on the serving platter.

Fried or Panned Fish

After cleaning, dry the fish, sprinkle with salt and pepper,
dip in fine bread-crumbs, flour or corn-meal, then in egg, and
again in crumbs, flour or corn-meal, and fry in deep fat. (See
Index for directions for deep-fat frying. ) Small fish are cooked
in this way, with or without head and tail; also fish steaks,
fillets or turbans. The skin is usually removed. In some cases
(for example, the perch) if the skin has not been removed by
the fish dealer, it is very difficult to get it off. In this case, dip
for a moment into boiling water and remove at once.

Fried Fish — Small fish are fried whole; for example, smelts,
small flounders, whitebait, small whitings, small herrings, small
perch. Larger fish such as eels, halibut, cod, large flounder and
sole are cut in four-inch lengths or made into fillets or turbans
before frying.

Fried fish are usually served with Tartar sauce, anchovy sauce
or with lemon.

Panned Fish — Clean, wash and dry fish, rub in flour which
has been seasoned with salt and pepper or dip in egg and crumbs
and saute in a saucepan in a small amount of fat. Any fish
that can be fried can be panned.

FILLET OF SOLE OR FLOUNDER

2 pounds fillet of sole or Salt and pepper
flounder Crumbs, egg

A large sole or flounder will make four fillets. Roll up each
fillet, 'or cut into smaller fillets, season with salt and pepper, dip
in eggy then in crumbs and fry in deep fat (390° F.) four to

200

six minutes. For variety, cut the fillets up, simmer half of the
small fillets in salted water from six to ten minutes and then
serve with the fried ones, having the boiled ones in the center
of the dish. Serve with a white sauce, or with Tartar sauce.

Planked Fish

Scale the fish. Split it down the back, clean, wash and wipe
dry as usual. Prepare a plank of oak or hickory, about one and
one-half inch thick, and put in the oven to heat. If using a
gas stove, place it directly under the gas in the broiler, having
the side which is to hold the fish nearest the flame.

Rub the fish all over with oil, salt and pepper. Lay it skin
side down on the plank, and put the plank on the upper grate
of the oven, or under the broiler of a gas stove. Cook about
one-half hour, spreading melted fat over the fish while it is
in the oven if there is a tendency to dryness. If the fish has
roe, the roe may be broiled on the plank beside the fish, or the
roe may be boiled, mixed with a little white sauce, well seasoned,
and spread over the thinnest part of the fish, £.ye minutes before
it is finished, and covered with crumbs.

Have ready freshly mashed potato and form a border of this
around the fish by pressing it through a pastry-bag. Set the
plank in the oven until the potato has browned, then send to
table garnished with lemon and parsley.

The size of the plank will depend on the size of the oven,
but it must be at least three inches wider than the fish. White-
fish and shad are best for planked fish.

Fish Roe and Milt

The roe (eggs) of many fish, which are available during the
Spring, make excellent and often delicate food. Shad roe are
most frequently used, but the roe of mackerel and of flounder
are just as palatable and are usually much cheaper. When small
fish contain roe, do not cook the roe in the fish; remove it and
cook it as a separate dish.

To Prepare Roe for Use

Parboil it in salted, acidulated water (one tablespoon vinegar
or legion- juice to one quart water) and simmer eight to ten
minutes. Drain, cool, and pick out the pieces of membrane;
the roe is then ready for any recipe.

FISH 201

Milt

The part of the male fish that takes the place of the roe
of female fish is called the milt, and may be prepared and
cooked in just the same way. The blue vein that runs through
the center of salmon milt should be removed before the milt is
cooked.

BROILED ROE

"Wipe, sprinkle with salt and pepper, put on greased wire
broiler, and broil £.Ye minutes on each side. Serve with maitre
d*h6tel sauce.

SHAD ROE CAVIAR

1 cup shad roe Ys cup salt or ^ cup

prepared caviar

Mash the cooked roe very carefully, then mix with the salt.
Beat thoroughly and let it stand for an hour before serving. If
preferred, the shad roe may be mixed with prepared caviar
instead of salt.

SCALLOPED ROE

1 to 2 pounds shad roe Bread-crumbs

1 cup medium white sauce Chopped parsley

Egg-yolk Salt and pepper

Lemon-juice

Parboil roe as directed, drain and break up lightly with a fork.
Sprinkle a layer of roe in a baking-dish; add one-half the yolk
of an egg, well beaten, dropping it over the top of the roe, next
sprinkle lightly with minced parsley, salt and pepper to taste
and a few drops of lemon -juice; then add a layer of the white
sauce. Repeat the layers of roe, egg, seasoning and sauce, cover
with bread-crumbs and bits of butter and bake until brown. If
a large dish is required, use with the roe any cold flaked fish left
from a former meal. Any kind of roe may be prepared in this
way.

202

Canned or Warmed-over Fish
FISH SOUFFLE

1 cup cooked fish, fresh or 2 eggs

canned ^ cup milk

1 cup mashed potatoes Salt and pepper

Mix cold cooked fish with mashed potatoes, milk, salt and
pepper. Stir in one egg, well beaten. Put into an oiled mold
or dish and set in the oven until hot. Beat the white of the
other egg stiff and stir into it the beaten yolk seasoned with salt
and pepper; heap this over the fish and brown.

FISH TIMBALE

1 cup cooked fish, fresh or 2 cups milk or cream

canned Yz cup butter or other fat

Yz cup cooked mushrooms Salt, pepper and nutmeg

1 cup bread-crumbs 4 eggs

Use any delicate fish, such as halibut, whitefish, cusk or sal-
mon. Remove the bones and skin, and pound the meat very
fine, so it may be rubbed through a soup-strainer. Mushrooms
mixed with the fish before it is strained will greatly improve
its flavor.

Cook bread-crumbs ten minutes in milk or cream. Remove
from fire and add melted butter or other fat, salt, pepper or
paprika and a few gratings of nutmeg. When this is cold, add
the fish, beat the whole thoroughly, add the eggs, also well
beaten, and place the mixture in a greased or oiled mold. Cover
the mold with oiled paper, set it in a deep baking-pan, place it
in the oven, and pour water into the pan until it is within one
inch of the top of the mold. Cook for three-quarters of an
hour at 250° F. Hollandaise and tomato sauce are both ex-
cellent to serve with fish timbale.

SALMON PUFFS

2 cups cooked salmon, fresh Y2 cup soft bread-crumbs
or canned 1 tablespoon lemon- juice

Salt and pepper 3 eggs

Remove the skin and bones from the salmon, chop the meat
fine, and add salt, white pepper or paprika, soft bread-crumbs.

FISH 203

lemon- juice or vinegar, and egg-yolks. Mix thoroughly, add
the well beaten egg-whites, and place in six or eight oiled cups,
filling the cups even full. Set the cups at once in a pan contain-
ing hot water that comes to about an inch below their tops, and
bake for one-half hour in moderate oven (375° F.). Turn
out upon a hot platter, thrust a sprig of parsley or celery, or a
clove, into the center of each puff, and pour about them any
desired fish sauce.

SALMON AU GRATIN

1 cup cooked salmon, fresh or Salt and pepper

canned 2 tablespoons lemon-juice

1 cup drawn-butter sauce Bread-crumbs, cheese

Flake the cold salmon, mix with the drawn butter, salt, pep-
per and lemon-juice. Fill little earthen dishes with the mixture,
cover with fine bread-crumbs, with or without cheese, and
brown in the oven at 400° F.

SALMON LOAF

2 cups cooked salmon, fresh 4 tablespoons butter
or canned Salt and pepper

2 eggs Minced parsley

Yz cup fine bread-crumbs

Flake the fish, add the eggs beaten lightly, the melted butter,
the bread-crumbs, salt, pepper and minced parsley. Put into a
greased mold, and steam for an hour. When cold, arrange on
a platter and garnish with slices of lemon, cucumber, and pars-
ley.

TUNAFISH WITH CAPER SAUCE

2 cups cooked tunafish, fresh 1 Yz cups milk

or canned 3 tablespoons capers

2 tablespoons butter Paprika

2 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon minced parsley
Yz teaspoon salt

If canned fish is used, turn it from the can on to a plate and
steam it until it is hot. In the meantime, melt the butter, stir
in the flour and salt, and gradually add the milk. Add the
capers. Transfer the fish to a platter, pour the sauce over it
and dust lightly with paprika and parsley.

Fresh cooked fish may be heated in the sauce, or heated
separately and served with sauce poured over it.

204

KEDGEREE

2 cups cooked fish, fresh or 1 cup cooked rice

canned Salt and pepper

4 tablespoons butter or other 2 hard-cooked eggs
fat

Free the fish from skin and bone. Melt butter in a saucepan,
add the fish and stir gently. Put in the rice, the whites of the
hard-cooked eggs, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Move gently about over the fire until thoroughly hot, and serve
on a flat dish with the yolks of the eggs, pressed through a
ricer, over the top.

SCALLOPED FISH

2 cups cooked fish, fresh or 2 hard-cooked eggs

canned 2 tablespoons butter

Yz cup mashed potatoes Salt and pepper

2 cups milk 1 cup bread-crumbs
2 tablespoons corn-starch

Heat all the milk, except one-fourth cup, in a double boiler;
add the corn-starch stirred up with the remaining cold milk;
cook twenty minutes, stirring frequently. Add one table-
spoon butter, rub smooth the yolks of the eggs and add them,
and then the whites after they have been passed through a
sieve. Flake the fish, add the potatoes and season with salt and
pepper. Oil a baking-dish, put in a layer of the fish mixture,
cover with sauce, add another layer of fish, then more sauce,
and so on imtil all is used. Cover the top with the bread-
crumbs, add small bits of butter and bake for fifteen minutes
in a moderate oven (3 50° -400° F.).

Dried and Salt Fish
CREAMED CODFISH

1 cup salt codfish 2 tablespoons butter

1 cup milk 2 tablespoons flour

1 ^%%

Separate the fish into very small pieces and leave in cold
water for three hours, changing the water three times. Heat
the milk in a double boiler. Add the codfish, well drained, and

FISH 205

cook for ten minutes. Mix the butter with the flour until a
smooth paste is formed, then stir it into the milk. Cook ten
minutes. Take the dish from the heat, add the beaten egg, stir
well and serve without further cooking, adding a sprinkling
of pepper just before dishing. If the sauce is cooked after the
egg is added, the milk is likely to curdle. The egg may be
omitted.

I CODFISH A LA MODE

1 cup salt codfish 2 eggs

2 cups mashed potatoes 54 cup butter or other fat

" 2 cups milk or cream Pepper

Pick very fine and freshen salt codfish as in preceding recipe;
mix with mashed potatoes, milk or cream, well-beaten egg, but-
ter and pepper. Turn into a baking-dish and bake twenty or
twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven (3 50° -400° F.).

CODFISH BALLS

1 cup salt codfish 2 tablespoons butter or other
4 cups sliced raw potatoes fat

2 tablespoons milk or cream 1 egg

Pepper

If the fish is not already shredded, pick out all the bones and
shred the flesh. Simmer the fish and the sliced potatoes to-
gether in plenty of water until the potatoes are soft. Drain,
mash, and beat until fine and light; then add the pepper, fat
and milk, and the egg, well beaten. Mix all thoroughly with
a spoon. Shape into balls. Fry in a frying-basket in deep fat,
(375°-390° F.) for two to five minutes.

CODFISH SOUFFLE

1 cup salt codfish 1 tablespoon butter or other

2 cups raw potatoes fat
2 tablespoons milk or cream Pepper
2 eggs

Place the fish and potatoes together in enough boiling water
to cover them, and let them boil until the potatoes are done.
Drain thoroughly, mash the potatoes and fish, and beat them
well with a fork, adding white pepper, butter, milk or cream.
The mass should be made light with vigorous beating. Then

206

beat in the well-stirred yolks of two eggs, and lastly, fold in
the well-whipped whites. Arrange the soujffle in an oiled bak-
ing-dish and bake in a moderate oven (375° F. ) about twenty
mihutes, until it is brown. Serve with cucumber pickles,
pickled peppers, horseradish or fresh cucumbers.

SALT FISH WITH EGG GARNISH

2 cups salt fish 2 cups milk

4 tablespoons butter or other 4 tablespoons flour
fat 2 hard-cooked eggs

Soak fish over night, cook in fresh water, flake. Make a white
sauce with the fat, flour and milk. Add the flaked fish to the
white sauce and pour on to a warm platter. Cut the eggs into
slices and arrange in a circle on top. Serve at once.

SALT MACKEREL

Boiled —

1 salt mackerel 4 tablespoons flour

2 cups milk 4 tablespoons butter
Pepper

Clean the fish by scraping off rusty-looking portions and also
the thin black membrane found on the inside, and leave it over
night in plenty of cold water, with the skin side up. In the
morning, drain the fish and place it in a frying-pan, skin side
down, cover with fresh water, and slowly heat to the boiling-
point. Drain off this water, add just enough fresh water to
cover the fish and simmer until tender. Lift the mackerel out
carefully (a pancake-turner will be found convenient for such
work) and place it on the serving-dish in the oven to keep
hot while the gravy is being prepared.

To one cup of the water left in the frying-pan after the
removal of the fish, add the two cups of milk. When the
liquid boils, add the flour stirred to a paste with the fat, and
season with salt and pepper. Let the gravy boil slowly three
or four minutes, stirring constantly until smooth. Pour it
over the mackerel.

Baked — Prepare the fish as for boiling but place it in a shal-
low baking-pan just large enough to hold it, and pour over it
the milk. Bake twenty minutes in a hot oven (400° -42 5° F.)
stirring into the milk at the end of fifteen minutes a smooth

FISH 207

paste made of two tablespoons of flour and two tablespoons of
fat, with a sprinkling of pepper. Serve with the thickened milk
poured around the fish.

BROILED SALT FISH

Soak in tepid water twenty-four hours, changing the water
several times. At the hour wanted, broil, season to taste, dot-
ting with bits of butter. All kinds of salt fish may be broiled
in this way.

BROILED FINNAN HADDIE

1 finnan haddie Oil Lemon-juice

Soak the fish in cold water for three-quarters of an hour,
then lay in boiling water for five minutes. Wipe very dry,
rub oil and lemon-juice into the fish and broil over a clear fire
for fifteen minutes. Serve with hot butter sauce.

CREAMED FINNAN HADDIE

1 cup flaked finnan haddie, 1 cup medium white sauce

fresh-cooked or canned Salt, pepper, paprika

If the whole fish is used, put it in a baking-pan, cover with
cold water, and after soaking twenty minutes, bring the water
to a boil. Reduce the heat and allow it to simmer for one-half
hour. Drain, rinse, and with a fork separate the fish into flakes.
Canned finnan haddie should be steamed. To one cup of fish,
add one cup of medium white sauce. Bring to a boil; season
with salt, pepper and a liberal quantity of paprika.

Oysters

Oysters, to be safe and palatable food, must be perfectly
fresh. Buy them in the shells, if possible, and when purchas-
ing them without shells be sure that the liquor is clear; if it
is cloudy, the oysters should not be used.

Opening and Cleaning Oysters

To open an oyster, hold it firmly with the thick part of the
shell toward the palm of the hand. Wash the shell thoroughly.
Push a strong, thin knife between the shells near the back and
run it along until it cuts the strong muscle which holds the

208

shells together. Drop the oysters into a strainer, set over a
bowl, and save the liquor that drains through to be used in
cooking the oysters or making soup or sauce. Then examine
each oyster and with the fingers remove all particles of shell.
They are then ready to be used in any way desired.

OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL

Raw oysters are served either on the half shell packed in
crushed ice, on oyster plates, or in a block of ice. Allow to
each person £ye or six oysters and one-fourth of a lemon, and
pass with the oysters crackers or thin slices of delicately buttered
brown or graham bread.

OYSTER COCKTAIL

30 medium oysters 1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons prepared horse- 2 tablespoons vinegar
radish 4 tablespoons lemon-juice

3 tablespoons tomato catchup J4 teaspoon tabasco sauce

Where oysters in the shell are obtainable, they are usually
served on the half shell, on a plate of crushed ice, around a
small glass holding the cocktail mixture. When it is not pos-
sible to get the oysters in the shell, cocktails may be served in
ice shells made for this purpose, or in cases made from green-
pepper shells, in halves of grapefruit, or in large claret glasses.
Put five medium oysters into each glass and pour the dressing
over them. To make the dressing, mix horseradish, tomato
catchup and vinegar, lemon-juice, tabasco sauce, and salt
thoroughly. Both oysters and dressing should be very cold.

PANNED OYSTERS

1 pint large oysters J4 cup oyster-juice

6 slices buttered toast

Lay the oysters in a shallow dripping-pan, and pour over
them a small quantity of oyster-juice, but not sufficient to raise
or float them. Place the dish carefully in a hot oven (400°-
425° F.) and just heat the oysters through. Be careful not
to bake them. Moisten hot buttered toast with the hot juice
from the oysters and serve the oysters on the toast.

FISH 209

LITTLE PIGS IN BLANKETS OR OYSTER BUNDLES

24 large oysters Salt and pepper

24 very thin slices fat bacon Parsley

Season the oysters with salt and pepper. "Wrap one oyster
in each slice of bacon and fasten with a toothpick. Heat a
frying pan and put in the oysters. Cook on one side and then
on the other just long enough to crisp the bacon, about five
minutes. Cut slices of toast into quarters and place one oyster
on each small slice of toast. Serve immediately, garnished with
parsley.

CREAMED OYSTERS

1 pint oysters 6 tablespoons flour

4 tablespoons butter or other 1 pint rich milk

fat Salt and pepper

Heat the oysters in their own liquor until the edges curl.
Make a white sauce with the fat, flour and milk. Combine the
oysters and sauce, add seasoning and serve.

OYSTERS A LA POULETTE

1 pint oysters Nutmeg

1 ^ cups milk or cream 2, egg-yolks or 1 whole egg

1 tablespoon butter 2 tablespoons flour

Salt and pepper Cayenne

Set the oysters on the stove to heat in their own liquor. As
soon as they begin to boil, skim carefully and turn them into
a strainer. Add one-half cup of oyster liquor to one cup of
milk or cream and make a white sauce with the fat, flour and
this liquid. Season with salt, pepper, a slight grating of nut-
meg and a grain of cayenne. Add one-fourth cup of cold
milk or cream to the well-beaten egg or yolks of eggs. Place the
oysters in the white sauce and add to the egg mixture. Cook
over hot water for three minutes, or until the eggs thicken,
stirring all the time; remove from fire immediately to pre-
vent separating. Serve with a border of puff-paste cakes,
buttered toast or baking-powder biscuit. If liked, one-half
tablespoon of lemon-juice may be added just as the oysters are
taken from the fire.

210

FRIED OYSTERS

1 pint oysters 2 eggs

1 Yz cups milk 2 cups flour

1 teaspoon salt

Scald the oysters in their own liquor, and drain them
thoroughly on a cloth. Make a batter with the milk, Qgg, flour
and salt and dip the oysters in it. Fry a light brown, in deep
fat (375°-390° F., two to five minutes) drain and serve.
Seasoned bread-crumbs may be used instead of the batter.

OYSTERS COOKED IN THE SHELL

30 oysters in the shell Salt

Butter Pepper

Wash the shells thoroughly by scrubbing with a brush. Place
in a baking-pan with the deep shell down. Set into a very
hot oven (450°-500° F.) and bake until the shells open. Or,
cover the pan, set it over a pot of boiling water, and steam
until the shells open. Add a little butter, salt, and pepper to
each oyster and serve immediately in the shells.

OYSTERS EN BROCHETTE

30 large oysters 6 slices toast ^ pound bacon

Cut the bacon into thin strips and cut the strips into pieces
an inch or an inch and a half square. String the oysters and
bacon squares alternately on six long, slender steel skewers,
being careful to run the skewers through the hard part of
the oysters. Place the skewers across a narrow, deep baking-
tin so that the oysters will hang down but not touch the bottom
of the tin; leave space between the skewers so that the heat will
pass evenly around them. Cook in a very hot oven (450°-
475° F.) for five minutes, or long enough to crisp the bacon.
Place a skewer on each slice of toast. Pour the juice in the
pan over the toast and serve immediately.

BROILED OYSTERS

30 large oysters Salt and pepper

Butter Bread-crumbs, if desired

Dry the oysters on a towel; sprinkle them with salt and pep-
per and lay them in an oyster broiler (a fine-mesh broiler).

FISH 211

Brown on both sides. Serve on a hot plate with melted butter
poured over them. The oysters may be rolled in bread-crumbs
before broiling, if preferred.

OYSTERS WITH MUSHROOMS

1 cup oysters 3 tablespoons butter or other
1 cup cooked mushrooms fat

(fresh or canned) 1 teaspoon onion- juice

lYz cups milk J/2 teaspoon lemon- juice

3 tablespoons flour 2 egg-yolks or 1 egg
Yz teaspoon salt

Drain the oysters and put them into a hot pan. Cook until
the edges begin to curl, then remove to a hot dish. Make a
sauce by adding to the oyster liquor the juice from the mush-
rooms, and enough milk to make a pint. Thicken this with
the flour blended with the butter or other fat and cook two
to five minutes. Add chopped mushrooms, onion-juice, lemon-
juice and a little salt.

Beat the yolks of the eggs; add a little of the hot mixture,
slowly, then all of it. Add the oysters, and cook over hot
water until the sauce thickens, stirring constantly. Remove
from the fire and serve at once.

BAKED OYSTERS WITH SPAGHETTI

^ pound spaghetti lYz cups milk

1 pint oysters 2 tablespoons flour

Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons butter or other

1 cup bread-crumbs fat

Ys cup melted fat

Break the spaghetti into small pieces, boil it in plenty of salted
boiling water until it is quite tender, and then drain. Scald
the oysters in their own liquor, reserving the liquor. Oil a
baking-dish, put in a layer of the spaghetti and then a layer of
the oysters, season with salt and pepper, and repeat the layers
until all the oysters and spaghetti are used, finishing with a
layer of spaghetti. To the liquor from the oysters, add enough
milk to make a pint, reserving a small quantity to mix with the
flour. Scald the remainder, add the scalded milk to the
moistened flour, stir well and cook twenty minutes in a double
boiler. Take from the fire, add the melted fat and pour over
the layers in the dish. Top with bread-crumbs mixed with

212

melted fat (see recipe for buttered crumbs), and bake in a
quick oven (400° -450° F.) just long enough to brown the
crumbs, about ten minutes.

OYSTERS SAUTEED

30 oysters Salt and pepper

Bread or cracker-crumbs Fat for sauteing

Drain the oysters well, season with salt and pepper and roll
in fine bread or cracker-crumbs. Place two or three tablespoons
fat in a saucepan and when it becomes very hot drop in enough
oysters to cover the bottom of the pan. When one side is
browned, turn the oysters carefully to brown the other side.
Add more fat as needed. The iron pancake griddle is often
used for this purpose, when many oysters are to be cooked at
one time. Serve very hot on toast.

SCALLOPED OYSTERS

1 pint oysters 6 tablespoons butter or other

2 cups soft bread-crumbs fat

J/4 cup milk Salt and pepper

Oil a baking-dish; put in a layer of crumbs, then a layer of
oysters, butter or other fat in little pieces, salt and pepper.
Repeat, ending with a layer of crumbs, with small pieces of fat
dotted over them. Do not have more than two layers of oysters.
Moisten with milk and oyster liquor mixed together. Bake in
a moderate oven (350°-400° F.) until brown, about half an
hour, and serve in the same dish.

OYSTER CASINO

30 oysters in the shell Pepper and salt

Lemon-juice 30 one-inch squares sliced

Buttered crumbs bacon

"Wash and open the oysters. Into each shell put a half-tea-
spoon of strained oyster liquor, a few drops of lemon- juice,
then the oyster sprinkled with pepper and salt and covered with
buttered crumbs. On each lay an inch square of bacon and set
in a hot oven (400°-450° F.) for ten or twelve minutes. Shal-
low ovenware dishes, with the half -shells embedded in coarse
salt, are excellent for this purpose. The salt keeps the shells
from tipping during baking. Where shells are not available.

FISH 213

arrange the oysters for each portion in a shallow ramekin.
These are excellent for Sunday-night supper or as a luncheon
dish.

DEVILED OYSTERS

1 pint oysters 1 cup milk or cream
3 tablespoons butter or other 2 egg-yolks

fat Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon chopped parsley

Drain the oysters, chop them, not too fine, and drain again.
Make a white sauce with two tablespoons of the fat, the flour
and the milk, remove from the fire and add the beaten yolks,
the salt, pepper and parsley, and then the oysters. Fill small
ramekins with the mixture, sprinkle lightly with soft bread
crumbs, dot with fat, arrange in a baking-pan, and brown in a
quick oven (400° -42 5° F., about seven minutes).

Clams

Clams, like oysters, should be purchased in the shell whenever
possible. The shell opens when the animal dies, making it easy
to discard the bad ones. A dead clam is dangerous food.

If obtained the day before they are to be used, cover the
clams with cold water and sprinkle corn-meal over the top of
the water, using about one cup of corn-meal for a peck of
clams. Let them stand over night.

To open clams steam in tightly covered vessel and if the
clams are not to be served at once, remove them from the shells
and drop them into cold water, to keep them from becoming
tough. A peck will yield about a quart of clams without the
shells.

Cut oflF the siphons of large clams,, as that part is very tough,
and if the clams have not been treated with corn-meal, open
the stomachs with a pair of scissors and scrape out the debris.
Wash the clams well, to remove all sand.

J CLAMS ON THE HALF SHELL

Small clams are served raw on the half shell, just as raw;
oysters are served. (See Index.)

CLAM COCKTAIL

Follow recipe for oyster cocktail. (See Index.)

214

CLAMS COOKED IN THE SHELL

Steamed —

30 clams in the shell Juice of Yz lemon

6 tablespoons butter Salt and pepper

The hard-shell clam is used for steaming. Scrub the shell
with a brush and wash free of sand in several waters. Steam
the clams in a steamer for ten minutes, or until opened. While
the clams are steaming, melt the butter and mix with the
lemon-juice, salt and pepper. Lay a napkin on a hot platter
and place the clams in their shells on this. Cover with a
second napkin and serve. In eating, remove the clam from
the shell and dip it into the sauce. The thin, tough part known
as the neck or siphon is not eaten.

Roasted in the Oven — Prepare the clams as for steaming,
put them into a pan, set the pan in a hot oven (400 ° -42 5 ° F.)
and bake until the shells open. Remove the top shell, being
careful not to spill the liquor. Arrange the clams in the half-
shells on plates and on each place a piece of butter and a little
pepper and salt. Add lemon -juice if desired. Serve imme-
diately.

Clam-bake Roast — ^The seashore is the natural place for a
clam-bake, but it is possible to have one at any place where
there is a flat open space. Preparations should begin several
hours before the time set for the meal.

Make a circle of flat stones — from two to four feet in
diameter, according to the size of the party — and on this circle
build a hot fire of wood. Let this burn for two or three hours.
Then rake off the fire and cover the hot stones with fresh sea-
weed. On this lay fresh clams in their shells; also, if desired,
oysters, potatoes in the skins, corn in the husk, and anything
else that may be steamed. Cover with a thick layer of sea-
weed^ and over all spread a large piece of sailcloth, fastening
down the edges with stones. Leave for two or three hours;
remove the cloth and the top layer of seaweed, and rake out
the clams and other foods as needed.

The same materials may be cooked in a large kettle at home
using cheese-cloth between the layers, but will lack the fine
flavor of the real clam-bake.

FISH 215

CREAMED CLAMS

1 cup clams 2 tablespoons flour
Yz cup milk 6 slices toast

Yz cup clam-juice Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons butter or other Parsley-
fat

Bake the clams in a pan, scalding them in their own liquor,
or steam them and then remove from the shell, being sure to
save the juice. Chop and add them to a white sauce made from
the milk, clam-juice, flour, seasoning, and fat. Serve on slices of
toast with parsley as a garnish.

DEVILED CLAMS

25 clams, fresh or canned 2 tablespoons bread-crumbs

1 tablespoon butter or other 2 egg-yolks

fat 1 tablespoon chopped parsley

2 tablespoons flour Salt and pepper
1 cup milk or cream

Drain the clams and rinse them in cold water. Make a white
sauce with the fat, flour, and milk or cream, and put in the
crumbs, the raw egg-yolks, and the parsley. Remove from the
fire, add the chopped clams, pepper to taste and salt if needed,
fill scallop or clam shells, or small ramekins, with the mixture,
brush them over with beaten yolk of tgg, sprinkle with bread-
crumbs, and brown in a hot oven (400° F.).

FRIED SOFT CLAMS

Wash soft clams (fresh or canned) and drain them upon a
soft cloth, wiping them dry. Then dip each clam first into
beaten q^^ and next into bread-crumbs, and, if much breading
is liked, dip them again into the q^^ and crumbs. Have a sauce-
pan containing hot fat (390° F.) about an inch deep. If you
have no thermometer, test the fat by dropping in a bit of the
soft part of bread. It should color to a golden hue in from
40 to 50 seconds. Lay the clams in the fat, one at a time
but as quickly as possible, and cook them until brown (about
one to two minutes) . Serve very hot.

2l6

SCALLOPED CLAMS

18 opened clams 48 very small dice of fat

6 large clams in shell bacon

White pepper 4 tablespoons cracker-dust

2 tablespoons minced celery 2 tablespoons butter or other

fat

Have the clams opened carefully, so that the shells will not
be broken. Clean the shells well with brush and water. Lay-
two clams in each half shell, dust with white pepper, and one-
half teaspoon of minced celery, and add four of the bacon
dice; cover with a very thin layer of cracker-dust, put a half
teaspoon fat on top and bake in the oven (3 50° -400° F.) fif-
teen to thirty minutes.

Scallops

The nearly round, ribbed shell of the scallop is known to
many who have never seen the scallop itself. Only those who
live in seashore towns ever see the whole bivalve, as the non-
edible portions are discarded before the edible part, the large
adductor muscle, is sent to market.

FRIED SCALLOPS

1 pint scallops, fresh or Cracker-crumbs

canned Beaten egg

Salt and pepper

"Wash the scallops, drain them and dry them thoroughly.
Season fine cracker-crumbs with salt and pepper, dip the scallops
in beaten egg, then in the crumbs, and fry in hot fat 360° F.^
for two minutes. If preferred, they may be simply seasoned
and rolled in flour and then fried. Serve with Tartar sauce.

BROILED SCALLOPS

Use recipe for broiled oysters. (See Index.) Either fresh or
canned scallops may be used.

v*!

FISH 217

CREAMED SCALLOPS

1 pint scallops, fresh or 1 pint thin white

canned sauce

"Wash and drain the scallops, add them to the sauce and cook
about fifteen minutes in a double boiler.

Sea Mussels

Sea mussels are as agreeable to the taste as oysters, and may
be eaten when oysters are out of season. Canned mussels are
obtainable nearly everywhere. When fresh mussels are used,
the shells may be opened by steaming, or with a knife. The
horny "beard" must be removed and discarded.

PANNED MUSSELS

30 mussels in the shell Cayenne

2 tablespoons butter Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons flour Lemon-juice

"Wash the shell with a brush in cold water, and open by steam-
ing. Remove the mussels from the shells, place them in a
saucepan, add the butter, salt and pepper, cayenne, and a dash
of lemon-juice. Mix the flour with an equal quantity of cold
water and rub out all the lumps, then add more water to make
it about as thick as rich cream. Pour in a thin stream into the
hot mixture, stirring constantly. As soon as the boiling-
point is reached, remove from the fire and serve. Mussels, like
oysters and clams, are made tough by over-cooking.

FRIED MUSSELS

Use recipe for fried oysters. (See Index.)

CREAMED MUSSELS

Use recipe for creamed oysters. (See Index.)

Lobster

Lobsters are in season from June to September, and it is possi-
ble to obtain them at any time of the year. The shell of a live

2l8

lobster is usually a mottled dark green. Boiling makes the shells
of all lobsters turn bright red.

Uncooked lobsters should be alive when purchased. In buy-
ing a boiled lobster, straighten its tail; if it springs back into
place, the lobster was alive, as it should have been, when boiled.

To Boil and Dress a Lobster

Plunge the live lobster into boiling water, head downward.
Add one tablespoon of salt, cover the kettle and keep it boiling.
A medium-sized lobster will cook in about twenty minutes.
Plunge it into cold water when done and when cool enough to
handle, take the meat from the shell in the following order:
Chop off the claws. Split the body lengthwise, remove and
throw away the stomach, a small sac just back of the head.
Running from the stomach to the base of the tail is the in-
testinal canal. If this does not pull out with the stomach, it
must be lifted out with a fork, in pieces, if necessary, and re-
moved entirely.

Crack the claws and remove the meat. If the lobster is not
to be served whole, take out the meat from the body, the
creamy green fat which constitutes the liver, and the coral or
spawn found in female lobsters. The spongy particles between
the meat and shell are not used.

In cutting up the meat of cooked lobster, always use a silver
knife or one of stainless steel, if possible, as an ordinary steel
knife discolors or darkens the meat.

COLD LOBSTER EN COQUILLES, WITH

MAYONNAISE

This is simply cold boiled lobster, served in the shell, a spoon-
ful of mayonnaise, colored red with the coral of the lobster,
being laid on top of the lobster meat and the whole served in
a bed of lettuce leaves. Canned lobster meat also makes a very
nice dish served with lettuce and mayonnaise.

BROILED LIVE LOBSTER

1 lobster Melted butter

Salt and pepper

Kill the fish by inserting a sharp knife in its back between
the body and tail shells, severing the spinal cord. Split length-

FISH 219

wise, remove the stomach and intestinal canal, crack the large
claws and lay the fish as flat as possible. Brush the meat with
fat; season with salt and pepper, place in a broiler, with the
shell side down, and broil slowly until of a delicate brown.
Twenty minutes is usually long enough. Turn the broiler and
broil for ten minutes longer. Serve hot, with melted butter.

BAKED LIVE LOBSTER

Prepare as for broiling. Lay the lobster in a baking-pan, shell
side down, season with salt, pepper and butter. Bake about
forty minutes in a hot oven (400° F.), basting it twice with
melted butter.

LOBSTER FARCI

2 lobsters 1 tablespoon parsley

1 cup milk Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon butter Nutmeg

1 tablespoon flour 3 egg-yolks, hard cooked

2 tablespoons bread-crumbs

Boil the lobsters and cut the meat into small pieces. In open-
ing the lobsters be careful not to break the body or tail shells.
Make a white sauce with the milk, butter and flour. Remove
from the fire and add the crumbs, parsley, lobster, salt and pep-
per, a grating of nutmeg and the yolks of the eggs mashed very
fine. Mix all well together. Wash the shells and wipe them
dry, and with a pair of scissors cut off the under part of the
tail shells. Join the large ends of both tail shells to one body
shell, to form a boat-shaped receptacle. Put the lobster mixture
into this boat, brush over the top with beaten eg§, sprinkte
lightly with bread-crumbs, and bake in a moderate oven (3 50°-
400° F.) fifteen to thirty minutes.

CREAMED LOBSTER, SALMON OR TUNA

No. 1.

2 tablespoons butter or other 1 teaspoon salt

fat 1 teaspoon pepper

2 tablespoons flour 2 cups boiled or canned lobster,
1 cup milk salmon or tuna

Make a white sauce with the fat, flour and milk. Add sea-
food cut into small pieces and the salt and pepper. Some cooks
add a teaspoon of curry-powder.

220

No. 2.

2 cups fresh or canned 3 eggs

lobster 2 teaspoons anchovy sauce

1 cup milk 3 tablespoons cream

1 cup soft bread-crumbs Salt, pepper and cayenne

Heat the milk and pour it over the bread-crumbs. When
nearly cold, add the beaten eggs, the lobster chopped fine,
anchovy sauce, salt and pepper, and a large pinch of cayenne.
Stir well, then add cream. Pour into an oiled mold, cover with
an oiled paper and steam one hour. Serve with anchovy or
other fish sauce.

DEVILED OR SCALLOPED LOBSTER

2 c«ps fresh or canned lobster Nutmeg

1 cup soft bread-crumbs 1 tablespoon butter or other

1 hard-cooked egg fat

2 teaspoons lemon-juice 1 tablespoon flour
Salt 1 cup milk
Cayenne

Cut the lobster meat into dice. Add one-half cup of bread-
crumbs, the egg chopped very fine and the lemon-juice, season-
ing generously with salt and cayenne pepper and a grating of
nutmeg. Make a white sauce of the fat, flour and milk. Add
the white sauce to the lobster mixture to make a paste. Fill
scallop-shells or shallow ramekins with the mixture, smooth
the tops, sprinkle with remaining bread-crumbs and bake in a
moderate oven (3 50° -400 F.) from fifteen to thirty minutes.

LOBSTER WITH CORAL SAUCE

No. 1.

1 medium-sized lobster 2 tablespoons flour

3 tablespoons butter or other 1 pint boiling water

fat 2 tablespoons lemon-juice

Cut the meat of the boiled lobster into small pieces and mash
the coral with a tablespoon of fat. Rub the flour and the rest
of the fat to a smooth paste. Add boiling water and cook five
minutes, then add the coral and butter and lemon-juice. Sim-
mer for four minutes. Strain the sauce over the lobster meatj
place the whole on the fire and boil up once.

FISH 221

No. 2.

1 medium-sized boiled lobster Yz pint drawn-butter sauce

Salt and pepper

Break up the coral and put it on a paper in a slow oven
(2 50° -3 00° F.) for thirty minutes. Then pound it and set it
aside. Chop the lobster meat, not too fine, and add it to the
sauce, also putting in a pinch of the coral and salt and pepper to
taste. The effect is spoiled if the lobster is cut too fine. The
sauce should be like a creamy bed for the lobster. Serve in a
shallow dish with the pounded coral sprinkled over the top.

Crabs

The blue crab, found on the Atlantic Coast and in the Gulf
of Mexico, is about two and one-half inches long by five inches
wide. The Dungeness crab of the Pacific Coast is much larger.
Crabs go through a molting season, in the Spring and Summer.
During the few days between the shedding of the old shell and
the hardening of the new one, they are called soft-shell crabs.
At other times, they are called hard-shell crabs.

Oyster crabs are tiny, almost transparent, grayish-white
crabs found in the shells with oysters. They are often served
in oyster stews.

Dressing Crabs

All uncooked crabs should be vigorously alive when pur-
chased, or the meat is not good. To prepare them for cooking,
proceed as follows:

Soft-shell Crabs — ^The back of the crab tapers to a point
at each side. Lay the crab on its face, take one of these points
between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand and pull the
shell back about half-way. Pull off all the spongy substance
which is thus exposed. Repeat the operation at the point on
the opposite side. Pull off the tail (apron) which laps under
the crab, and the spongy substance under it. "Wash the crabs
in cold water, and they are ready for cooking.

Hard-shell Crabs — ^Throw the live crabs head first into
rapidly boiling water. After ^yq minutes, add one tablespoon
of salt and boil for thirty minutes. When cold, break off the
apron, or tail. Take the crab in both hands, with the thumbs
at the tail end, and pull the upper and lower shells apart. Dis-

222

card the material that sticks to the upper shell and pull off
all the orange waxy material and white spongy substance be-
tween the halves of the body and at each side. The edible part
of the crab lies in the two compact masses remaining, and in
the small flakes that may be extracted from the large claws.
The latter must be broken with a cleaver or hammer.

BROILED SOFT-SHELL CRABS

6 soft-shell crabs Salt and pepper

Yi cup butter or other fat 54 teaspoon cayenne

2 tablespoons lemon-juice Flour

Prepare the crabs as directed. In a deep plate melt butter
or other fat, and add lemon-juice, salt, pepper, and cayenne.
Roll the crabs first in this mixture, then in dry flour. Place
them in a double broiler and broil over hot coals eight minutes.

FRIED SOFT-SHELL CRABS

6 soft-shell crabs Sifted bread-crumbs

Egg Salt and pepper

Oil

Prepare the crabs as directed, dip them in beaten egg, then
in sifted bread-crumbs seasoned with salt and pepper. Fry in
deep fat (360° F.) three to five minutes. Or, saute in a fry-
ing-pan with just enough fat to keep them from scorching.
Turn so that both sides are cooked.

DEVILED CRABS

12 hard-shell crabs or 1 cup milk or cream

2 cups crab-meat 2 tablespoons flour

1 teaspoon mustard 1 Yz cups soft bread-crumbs

1 teaspoon salt Nutmeg

3 tablespoons butter or other Yz tablespoon chopped parsley
fat Y2 tablespoon lemon-juice

Prepare the crabs as directed. Wash the upper shells
thoroughly. Heat the milk or cream in a small saucepan;
thoroughly mix the flour and mustard and two tablespoons of
the fat and stir the scalded milk or cream into this mixture.
Boil two minutes, remove from the fire and add the crab-meat
and seasonings. Mix well, and put the mixture into six crab

FISH 223

shells. Sprinkle with the crumbs and place the remainder of the
butter, cut in small pieces, on top of the crumbs. Cook on the
grate in a hot oven (400° F.) until the crumbs are brown.
Serve on a bed of parsley, garnishing with the claws.

CRAB COCKTAIL

Follow recipe for oyster cocktail. (See Index.)

CREAMED CRABS

12 hard-shell crabs or 1 tablespoon butter or other
2 cups canned crab-meat fat

1 tablespoon flour Salt and pepper

Yz cup milk Cayenne

Prepare the crabs as directed. To white sauce made from
the fat, flour and milk, add the shredded crab-meat and season
with salt, pepper and cayenne. Serve very hot in individual
cases, patty shells or on toast.

SCALLOPED CRABS

1/4 cups crab-meat, fresh 2 cups milk

or canned Parsley

5 tablespoons butter or other 1 teaspoon onion-juice

fat Salt and pepper

4 tablespoons flour 1 cup soft bread-crumbs

Make white sauce of four tablespoons of the fat, flour and
milk, add a little chopped parsley, onion-juice, salt and pepper.
Mix this with the crab-meat and one-half cup bread-crumbs.
Fill shells or ramekins, place crumbs on top, dot over with one
tablespoon butter, and bake in a moderate oven (3 50° -400°
F.) from fifteen to thirty minutes.

FRIED OYSTER CRABS

1 pint oyster crabs Flour

Place crabs in sieve and hold under a cold-water faucet.
Drain, roll in flour and fry in deep fat (360° F.) for two to
three minutes, using a frying-basket. Drain on paper and
serve on a napkin laid on a platter. Garnish with four lemon-
baskets holding Tartar sauce. Or, fill pastry or paper cases
with the fried crabs and serve very hot.

224

OYSTER CRABS AND WHITEBAIT

1 cup oyster crabs Flour

1 cup whitebait

Mix equal quantities of oyster crabs and whitebait, both of
which have been previously washed, drained and rolled in flour,
and fry in deep fat (360° F.) for two to three minutes. Serve
with Tartar sauce.

Shrimps and Prawns

Shrimps and prawns are very similar, but the prawn is larger
than the shrimp; the former is often six or seven inches long,
while the latter is seldom more than two inches.

To Prepare Fresh Shrimps, simmer them in salted water,
wash and drain. Remove the shell carefully, also the black line
that runs the length of the body.

CREAMED SHRIMPS

2 cups cooked shrimps, 4 tablespoons flour

fresh or canned 2 cups milk

2 tablespoons butter or other Salt and pepper

fat

Make a white sauce with the fat, flour and milk, add shrimps,
whole or broken into small pieces. When thoroughly heated,
add seasoning and serve.

SCALLOPED SHRIMPS

2 cups cooked shrimps, 1 cup bread-crumbs

fresh or canned 2 cups boiling water

4 tablespoons butter or other 1 teaspoon lemon-juice

fat 1 teaspoon salt

4 tablespoons flour I/2 teaspoon pepper

1 teaspoon mustard

Prepare shrimps as directed. Melt three and one-half table-
spoons of the fat in a saucepan. Add the flour and mustard and
beat until light. Gradually pour the hot water on this. Place
the saucepan on a fire, and stir the contents until they begin to
boil. Add the lemon-juice, salt and pepper, and cook for six
minutes, then stir in the shrimps. Turn the mixture into a shal-

t FISH 225

low scallop-dish, cover with the bread-crumbs and dot with the
I half-tablespoon of butter broken into little bits. Bake for
twenty minutes in a moderate oven (350° F.).

DEVILED SHRIMPS

1 cup shrimps, fresh or canned 3 hard-cooked eggs

3 tablespoons butter or other Paprika

fat 1 tablespoon chopped parsley

4 tablespoons flour Few drops onion-juice

2 cups milk Buttered crumbs

Prepare shrimps as directed. Melt the fat, add the flour and
stir until smooth. Add the milk, heat, stirring constantly, and
when it begins to thicken, add the eggs, which have been put
through the sieve. Cut the shrimps with a silver knife, and
add to the sauce; season with the paprika, parsley, and onion-
juice. Put the mixture in ramekins, cover with seasoned
crumbs, and brown in a quick oven.

Fresh- Water Crawfish

Crawfish, or crayfish, look like lobsters, but are much smaller.
They may be prepared and served in the same way as lobsters.

Cook the crawfish in boiling salted water, drain, and remove
the shell. Take out the intestines by pinching the extreme end
of the center fin and jerking it suddenly. This removes the
gall-cyst, which is very bitter.

Frogs

Frogs' legs (hindquarters only) are considered quite a deli-
cacy. The skin can be turned over and slipped off the legs,
like a glove taken off inside out.

FRIED FROGS' LEGS

6 frogs* legs Salt and pepper

1 egg Fine bread-crumbs

Lemon-juice

Skin the legs and wash them in cold water; dry well on a
towel or napkin. Season with salt, pepper and lemon-juice.
Beat the egg, and season it with salt and pepper; dip the legs into

226

the eggy then into dried bread-crumbs or fine cracker-crumbs,
plunge them into deep fat (390° F.) and fry two to three
minutes. Use a wire frying-basket, if possible. Frogs' legs are
served for breakfast or luncheon and for the latter meal they
are accompanied by Tartar sauce.

Turtles and Terrapins

These animals should be alive when purchased. If the large
southern variety, the soft-shell or snapping turtles are used, cut
off the head and let the turtle lie in cold water one-half hour
or hang on a hook with neck down until blood stops dripping.
Then wash and drop into boiling water and cook for ten
minutes. Pour off the water and cover the turtle with cold
water, letting it stand until cool enough to handle easily; then
with a towel rub the nails and black skin from the legs.

"Wash the turtle carefully, place it in a saucepan covered
with boiling water and simmer until the flesh is tender. This
will be when the joints of the legs can be broken with a slight
pressure, and the shells separate easily. It will take from thirty
to sixty minutes. It should be cooked until the skin is like
jelly. Remove the turtle from the water, and after it has cooled
a little, place it on its back with the head away from you, and
loosen and remove the under shell.

The liver, gall bladder and sand bag will be found near the
head end, the gall being attached to the left side of the liver.
Take out the gall as you would that of a chicken, being care-
ful not to break it. Remove the entrails and throw them away.

Take out the eggs, if there are any, remove the slight mem-
brane and drop them into cold water. Cut all the meat very
fine, saving any water that may collect in the shells. The turtle
is now ready to use in a stew or in other ways.

If terrapin is used, wash and plunge it alive into boiling
salted water, and cook for about ten minutes. Then plunge
it into cold water, rub off the toe nails and dark skin, place
it again in salted boiling water and cook until the legs are
tender, from thirty to sixty minutes. Clean the terrapin ac-
cording to directions for turtles, but instead of throwing away
the small intestines, cut them in very small pieces and use them
for food. Discard the thick, heavy part of the intestines.

FISH 227

TERRAPIN OR TURTLE A LA KING

2 cups cooked terrapin or 2 cups cream or rich milk

turtle meat Salt and pepper

6 yolks hard-cooked eggs Allspice

2 tablespoons butter or other Nutmeg
fat

Mash the yolks of the hard-cooked eggs and mix them with
the fat. Put the cream or rich milk into a double boiler; when
it is scalded, stir in the egg and fat mixture and beat till smooth;
season with salt, pepper and gratings of allspice and nutmeg.
Add the terrapin or turtle meat cut fine and simmer for ten
minutes. Serve very hot. Terrapin is very often served in indi-
vidual metal cups or saucepans with covers.

TERRAPIN WITH MUSHROOMS

1 pint cooked terrapin meat Yz pint chopped mushrooms

1 pint medium white sauce Six slices toast

To white sauce add terrapin cut in inch pieces and chopped
mushrooms. Cook in double boiler for twenty minutes, or
until thoroughly hot. Serve on toast.

SHRIMP CREOLE

^ medium-sized onion, Dash of cayenne

chopped 14 teaspoon thyme

1/2 cup chopped mushrooms 1 bay leaf

2 tablespoons butter 2 pimientos, chopped

2 tablespoons flour 2 cups codced shrimps

1 cup mushroom broth 4 wheat biscuits

1 cup water Butter

1/2 teaspoon salt 3 sprigs parsley

y^ teaspoon pepper

Saute onion and mushrooms in butter 3 minutes; stir in flour
and cook 1 minute, then add liquid gradually and cook until
thickened, stirring constantly. Add seasonings and shrimps and
cook 5 minutes. Serve on wheat biscuits, cut in half length-
wise, toasted and buttered, and garnish with parsley, or In ring
molds of rice or spaghetti.

MEAT

THE name meat Is given generally to all edible flesh of ani-
mals used for food. The name beef is used for the flesh
of adult cattle; veal for the flesh of calves under one year of
age; pork for the flesh of swine; mutton for the flesh of adult
sheep and lamb for the flesh of sheep from six weeks to one
year old.

SELECTION OF MEAT

There are certain characteristics of good meat which serve
as a guide to the purchaser. Flecks of fat all through the fibers
indicate tenderness and flavor. Thin connecting tissue means
a tender cut; thick tissue, a tough one. Meat well ripened or
hung some time after slaughter is more tender than freshly
killed meat. Meat of any kind should have a fresh odor and
no dark, dry edges or spots.

Beef

Good beef should have a bright red color and a moist juicy
surface when freshly cut; firm, fine-grained muscle; dry,
crumbly suet, white in color; and a thick solid edge of straw-
colored fat.

Veal

Veal should be at least six weeks old before slaughter. The
sale of "bob" veal is prohibited in many states; it is soft and
of poor flavor. Prime veal should be a faint pink color with
little or no edge of fat. Flecks of fat in the meat should show
a pinkish tinge. Milk-fed veal is particularly good.

Pork

Pork should have firm white flesh with a faint pink tinge.
The fat should be clear white. Pork of dull appearance, with
yellowish lumps through the meat or fat should be avoided.

228

MEAT 229

Lamb and Mutton

Lamb may be distinguished from mutton by the bones. In
young lamb, the bones are sHghtly streaked with red and the
joint is serrated. The joint of mutton is smooth and round.
Lamb or mutton should have a deep pink flesh, hard white kid-
ney fat, thin edge fat of a pinkish tinge, and firm, fine-grained
fibers. The outer skin and fat of mutton should be torn oflf
before the meat is cooked.

Glands and Organs

Liver — Calf's liver is often considered most choice in tender-
ness and in flavor. Lamb's, however, is equally good and often
cheaper in price. Pig's liver is good, and even beef liver is
acceptable if properly prepared.

Because of its value as an iron-rich food, liver is used exten-
sively in the prevention and treatment of anemia.

Kidneys — Calf's kidneys are best. Lamb's kidneys are good
if the lamb is young.

Sweetbreads — Sweetbreads from the young calf or lamb
are used. There are two kinds, those in the throat and those
near the heart. Those near the heart are round and compact
and are considered slightly more desirable than those in the
throat. Sweetbreads spoil quickly, therefore they should not
be kept very long.

Heart — Calf's and lamb's hearts are more tender than those
from beef or mutton.

Tongue — Calf's and lamb's tongues are most desirable. The
tongue of older animals may be used in some recipes.

Brain — Calf's brains are most desirable. Although a deli-
cacy, there is so little demand for them that in many markets
they may be purchased cheaply.

Tripe — A part of the stomach of a ruminant — that from
the ox is the one usually used for food.

Amount of Meat to Buy for Each Person

Meat shrinks from one-third to one-half in cooking. There-
fore allow one-fourth pound of meat without bone for each
serving, and one-half pound of meat consisting of lean, fat
and bone as a minimum for each serving.

230

Cuts of Meat

Animals dressed for market are divided lengthwise through
the backbone into two parts, each of which is called a side.
Each side is divided again into two parts, the forequarter and
the hindquarter. Each quarter is then divided into smaller
cuts which are sold in the retail market.

Comparative Cost of Various Cuts

As a general rule the price of the different cuts of meat is
determined by considerations such as tenderness, grain, general
appearance and convenience of cooking rather than by food
values in terms of fat or protein, or the ease with which they
are digested. The cheapest cuts for lean meat are the neck and
the two shanks. The cheapest for general use are the shanks,
plates and chuck. The cheapest cuts for fat and lean are the
neck, shank and plate.

Beefsteaks, in the order of their economy as food, range as
follows: chuck, round, flank, sirloin, and club or Porterhouse.
Of the roasts of beef, the cheapest in terms of lean meat is the
rump and most expensive is the first cut of the prime ribs. For
stews and boiling, the neck and shank are less expensive than
the rib ends and the brisket.

CARE OF MEAT IN THE HOME

As soon as meat comes from the market, the wrapping-paper
should be removed, and the meat should be put on a granite
or porcelain plate and placed in the refrigerator or other cool
place.

Before cooking meat, wash quickly under running water,
remove outer membrane and inspection stamp. In hot weather,
if meat is to be kept any length of time and there is any danger
of its spoiling, it may be seared on the outside on a hot griddle
or may be plunged into boiling water and kept there for Hve
minutes; lamb, mutton, or veal may be partly cooked. It should
then be cooled as quickly as possible, uncovered, and put into
the refrigerator or other cool place. If meat has become slightly
"strong," it may be rubbed with salt and the salt wiped off

LAMB CHART

Retail Cuts

Wholesale Cuts

Leg of Lamb

(Three cots from one leg)

-Roast Broil Stew. Braise -

Lamb Crown Fi'enched
Roost Pib Chops
Roost Broil

Arm Blade
Lamb Chop Lamb Chop
Broil Roast Broil

Lamb Nectt Slices
Braise

Retail Cuts

Loin English Rolled Loin
Lamb Chop Lamb Chop of Lamb

— Broil or Panbroil Roast

Lamb Potties Lomb Loaf

-Braiseor Broil Balte

Lamb Shanhs

-Braiseor stew—

— National Live Stock and Meat Board

M©Qt Cuts and How lo Cook Them
BEEF CHART

Retail Cuts Retail Cuts

Wholesale Cuts

KnucRle Cross Cut

Soup Bone Fore ShonR

Soup Of Bivis*

English Cot Ami Pot Roast Afm SteoR

Rolled Necft Boneless NecR

— National Live Stock and Meat Board

Meat Cuts ond How to cook xnem

PORK CHART

Retail Cuts Retail Cuts

Wholesale Cuts

Boston style Rolled

Butt BottonStyttButt
/toast

— National Live Stock and Meat Board

VEAL CHART

Retail Cuts Retail Cuts

Wholesale Cuts

Rolled Veal ruv Chicken
Shoulder Roast titycnicKen

-ifoost cr droise

Vea I Fore Shank Vea I Patties

Simm«r

— National Live Stock and Meat Board

MEAT

231

with a damp cloth, or the meat may be rubbed with soda, kept
for a few minutes in boiUng water, wiped with a damp cloth
and then cooked.

METHODS OF COOKING MEAT

Meat is cooked to soften connective tissue, to develop flavor,
to improve appearance and to destroy bacteria or other organ-
isms. The method of cooking depends on the kind and quality
of the meat to be cooked. Only tender cuts of meat can be
cooked successfully by dry heat. Although as desirable in
nutritive value and flavor, the tough cuts of meat require moist
heat and long, slow cooking to make them palatable. Since
meat is largely protein, even the tenderest cuts may be toughened
and hardened by too high a temperature.

Searing — Meat is placed in a hot pan containing fat, a hot
oven or over an open fire and is quickly browned on all sides.
The temperature is then reduced and the cooking process con-
tinued. Searing does not keep in the juices as was formerly
thought but does produce a browner exterior.

Broiling — Meat is cooked over or under or in front of an
open fire or other direct heat. The meat is placed so that there
is a distance of 3 or 4 inches between top of meat and source
of heat. Broil on one side until nicely browned, turn and finish
broiling. Season. Chops and tender steaks as porterhouse, sir-
loin and first or second cut of round are the most desirable for
broiling.

Pan Broiling — Meat is placed in a sizzling hot skillet and
browned on both sides. Reduce temperature and cook until as
well done as desired, turning from time to time.

Roasting — Meat is placed on a rack in an uncovered roast-
ing pan, fat side up and baked in a slow oven, without water
until as well done as desired. Basting is not necessary. The
large tender cuts of meat are cooked by this method.

Cooking in Water — Meat is covered with boiling water,
then seasoned with salt and pepper and cooked slowly at sim-
mering temperature, not boiling, until meat is tender.

Stewing — Meat is cut into cubes. Brown, if desired,
on all sides in hot fat, cover with boiling water and cook
at simmering temperature in a covered kettle until meat is
tender. Less tender cuts containing much connective tissue

232

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234

are best cooked by this method which softens both tissue and
fiber.

The best cuts for stews are those containing both fat and
lean and some bone. The shank is the most economical of all
cuts for this purpose. Other cuts used are the neck, plate, flank,
heel of the round and the short ribs. The brisket and the rump
are sometimes used. Occasionally a cut like the round is used,
as in beef a la mode.

In making stews, one-fourth pound of clear meat or one-
half pound of meat and bones should be allowed for each
serving. One to two potatoes, one to two medium-sized car-
rots, one small onion, one-fourth medium-sized turnip and one
stalk of celery may be used for each person served. Any or
all of these may be omitted.

Braising — ^Use a thick-walled kettle or frying pan. Brown
sliced onion and snip of garlic in a small amount of fat and sear
meat thoroughly in this. If cooking is to continue on top of
stove, leave meat in the kettle. For oven finishing, transfer to
casserole or baking dish. Season, add a small amount of water
or tomato juice and simmer. Pot roast is the most familiar
braised meat.

Frying and Sauteing — ^Some meats, such as chops and cut-
lets, may be crumbed and fried in deep fat. Ham, liver and
some other meats are sometimes sauteed in a small amount of
fat at low temperature, after the first searing.

Pressure Cooking — ^utilizes live steam in a special kettle.

FiRELESS Cooking — continues cooking with no additional
heat.

Cooking Glands and Organs — All glandular organs re-
quire careful cooking at low temperature. Overcooking
toughens them and destroys their delicate flavor, making them
almost tasteless.

Beef

BROWNED BEEF BRISKET

6 pounds beef brisket 6 or more medium- sized

Celery salt boiled potatoes

Garlic Salt and pepper

If the piece has much bone, part may be removed for soup,
stock, or gravy to be used with the meat when warmed over.
Simmer the solid part of the meat in a little water until tender,

MEAT 235

with a dash of celery salt and garlic added, turning it once dur-
ing the cooking, which will take not less than three hours for
the amount given. Remove the meat from the liquor; place
it in a shallow pan with skin side up, and score several times
across the top. Have boiled potatoes (hot or cold) in readi-
ness and drop them into the kettle to take up some of the fat;
then place them around the meat and brown all in a hot oven
(400° -450° F.) about ten to twenty minutes. Make a gravy
with the remaining liquor and serve separately. The meat
should slice as firmly as cheese and be tender and appetizing.

BRISKET OF BEEF

3 pounds beef brisket l/^ cup diced celery with

1/^ cup sliced onions leaves

1^ cup sliced carrots 1^ teaspoons salt

Cover beef with hot water, add vegetables and simmer, cov-
ered, until meat is tender, about 2^ to 3 hours. Do not boil.
Add salt when half done and more water if necessary. Remove
meat from broth, slice and serve with Horse-radish Sauce (page
324) or Onion Sauce (page 315). Allow J/z pound per serving.

Variations — 1. Brown meat in hot fat before cooking.

2. With Navy Beans — Soak 1 pound navy beans in water
overnight. Drain and place in a kettle together with Yz teaspoon
mustard, Yz cup brown sugar, J/2 cup maple sirup, salt and
pepper. Place beef brisket on top. Cover with water and cook
slowly until tender, about 3 hours.

3. Omit vegetables listed. For the last hour of cooking add
1 quart sauerkraut, 1 cup vinegar and 3 tablespoons brown
sugar. Cover and finish cooking. Stir in a grated uncooked
potato 10 minutes before serving.

TO CORN BEEF

Neck, brisket and navel are usually used. Rub the beef with
salt and pack it in a clean hard wood barrel or crock. Pour
over it the following picklcj enough for twenty-five pounds.

2V2 pounds salt J4 ounce saltpeter

Vz pound sugar 4^4 quarts water

Mix the pickle thoroughly, boil it, remove the scum, and
cool the liquid. Place a heavy weight on top of the meat to

236

keep it in the brine. The meat may be left in the brine for a
month, but it is at its best after ten days of curing.

BOILED CORNED BEEF

6 pounds corned beef 1 onion

1 carrot Vinegar

Butter

Soak the meat one hour in cold water. Drain, put into a
kettle with carrot and onion, using enough cold water to cover
well. Add to each quart of water one teaspoon of vinegar.
Simmer until tender. Thirty to forty minutes for each pound
is a fair allowance of time. Let it remain in the liquor twenty
minutes after it is done. Then drain and serve. Butter rubbed
over the meat just before serving improves corned beef pre-
pared in this way.

OLD-FASHIONED BOILED DINNER

6 pounds corned-beef

4 carrots

brisket

6 potatoes

1 cabbage

6 beets

3 white turnips

Vinegar

Put the meat into the pot over a brisk fire with enough cold
water to cover it. Bring it rapidly just to the boiling-point,
then remove the scum, reduce the heat and simmer until tender
(three to four hours). About three-fourths of an hour before
it is to be served, skim the liquid free from fat. Put a portion
of the liquid into another kettle with the cabbage which has
been cleaned and cut into sections, the turnips, carrots, potatoes
and beets prepared and cut into uniform pieces, and boil until
tender.

BEEF STEW WITH DUMPLINGS

1/4 pounds shank, neck, 1 small onion

plate, flank, rump or Y^ cup cubed carrots

brisket ^ cup cubed turnips

54 cup flour 4 cups potatoes, cut in

1 Yz teaspoons salt quarters

54 teaspoon pepper

"Wipe meat, remove from bone, cut in cubes of about one and
one-half inch. Mix flour with salt and pepper and dredge the

MEAT 237

cubes of meat with it. Cut some of the fat from the meat
and heat in a frying-pan. When part of the fat has tried out,
add the cubes of meat and brown the surface, stirring con-
stantly to prevent burning. Put this meat, with the melted
fat in which it was browned, into the stew-kettle. Add enough
boiling water to cover the meat or a pint of tomatoes, stewed
and strained, and simmer until the meat is tender (about three
hours) .

The carrots and turnips are to be added during the last hour
of cooking, and the potatoes twenty minutes before serving
time. Fifteen minutes before serving time, add the dumplings
to the stew.

Dumplings — No. 1.

2 cups sifted flour 1 egg, well beaten

1 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons melted butter

4 teaspoons baking powder or other shortening

y^ teaspoon pepper Milk (about % cup)

Sift dry ingredients together. Add egg, melted shortening
and enough milk to make a moist, stiff batter. Drop by tea-
spoons into boiling liquid. Cover very closely and cook for 18
minutes. Makes 2 dozen dumplings.

These dumplings may be steamed in another kettle, as in fol-
lowing recipe.

No. 2.

2 cups flour 1 teaspoon salt

4 teaspoons baking-powder ^ cup milk

Yz tablespoon fat

Sift together the dry ingredients and rub in the fat. Add
enough milk to moisten the flour, but do not make the mixture
too wet. Roll out the dough on a board, making it about one
inch thick, and cut with a biscuit cutter. Put the pieces on a
plate in a steamer and steam twenty to thirty minutes. It is
better not to steam the dumplings over the stew, as the rapid
boiling required reduces the gravy too much. These dumplings
may be cooked on top of the stew, as in the recipe above, but
they will be lighter if steamed.

BRAISED SHORT RIBS

3 pounds short ribs of beef Salt

Flour Pepper

1 cup water

Cut meat into serving portions. Dredge with flour and brown
in a hot kettle or oven. Season with salt and pepper, add water,
cover and cook in kettle at simmering temperature or in a slow
oven (300°F.) until tender, 1 ^ to 2 hours. Allow ^ pound
per serving.

Variations — Use Barbecue Sauce (page 253) for water.

2. Spread prepared mustard over ribs and use tomatoes or
tomato juice in place of water.

3. Add sauerkraut during the last 45 minutes of cooking.

4. Add uncooked pared potatoes, carrots and onions to the
ribs about 45 minutes before ribs are done.

BEEF GOULASH

3 pounds beef chuck 1 teaspoon salt

Vinegar Yz teaspoon paprika

Summer savory 8 onions
y^ cup fat

Cook the onions slowly in the fat. Cut the beef into cubes
or slices and sprinkle with vinegar and a little savory. Add the
salt and paprika. Add the cooked onions, cover tightly, and
simmer for about two hours. The liquid may be increased
just before serving by the addition of a little beef stock, or
cream, either sweet or sour.

SAVORY BEEF

2 pounds beef, plate, shank, % teaspoon ground cloves and
rump or round thyme or Summer savory

3 large onions, sliced 1 ' pint brown stock or boiling
3 tablespoons fat water and meat extract

3 tablespoons flour 2 tablespoons vinegar

1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon catchup

54 teaspoon black pepper

Brown the onions slowly in the fat. Increase the heat. Cut
meat into sizes desired for serving, add it to the onions, and
brown. Mix the flour and the dry seasonings. Sprinkle this

MEAT 239

mixture over the meat. Add the stock, vinegar and catchup.
Cover closely. Simmer until meat is tender, allowing at least
two hours for shank or plate and one and one-half hours for
rump or round.

POT ROAST OF BEEF

4 pounds chuck, round or 3 tablespoons fat

rump of beef . Salt and pepper

y^ cup flour 1/2 cup water

Dredge meat with flour and brown on all sides in hot fat.
Season with salt and pepper. Add water, cover and cook slowly
until tender, 3 to 4 hours. As the liquid cooks away add more,
as needed. Serve with brown gravy and vegetables. Makes 8
portions.

Variations — 1. Add uncooked pared potatoes, carrots, green
beans, celery and onions just long enough before serving to cook
them. They may be whole, quartered or sliced.

2. Use tomatoes or tomato juice in place of water.

3. After browning, pour % cup horse-radish over meat.

4. Before cooking, cut slits in the meat and insert stuffed
olives, pushing them into the meat.

SMOTHERED BEEF

3 pounds rump 2 tablespoons mild prepared

Flour mixed with salt and mustard

pepper 1 teaspoon celery seed

3 large onions, sliced 1 cup strained tomatoes or I/2

3 tablespoons fat can tomato soup

Dredge the meat with flour and brown it in a heavy pan.
Brown the onions in the fat; add the mustard, celery seed and
tomatoes. Pour this sauce over the meat and simmer three hours
or more.

SWISS STEAK

2 pounds steak cut 2l/^ inches Salt and pepper

thick from shoulder, rump y^ green pepper, chopped fine

or round 2 cups boiling water or

1/2 cup flour 1 cup water and

2 tablespoons fat 1 cup strained tomatoes

Few slices onion

Season the flour with salt and pepper and pound it into the
meat with a wooden potato-masher, or the edge of a heavy

THE PROPE
ROAST
SQUARE C
CHUCK, RU
ROUND

A HEAVY METAL
POT WITH A
TIGHT COVER AND
GRILL IS THE
PROPER SETTING
FOR BRAISING THE
ROAST

BROWN TH
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ALL SIDES
SON AS
BROWN

THE GRILL
ER THE ROAST
ADD A SMALL
UNT OF WA-
OR TOMATO
E

COVER CLOSELY
AND SIMMER OVER
LOW HEAT, RE-
NEWING LIQUID
OCCASIONALLY

VEGETABLES,
R CLOSELY
PREPARE FOR
ISCIOUS DIN-

I. Bureau Home
mics

240

meat mallet. Heat the fat and brown the meat in it. Add the
onions, green pepper, boiling water and tomato. Cover closely.
Simmer for 2 hours. This may be cooked in a casserole in a
moderate oven (3 50°F.) about 1 to lYz hours. Vegetables may
be added as desired. Serves 6.

STUFFED STEAK

2 pounds flank or round steak 1 tablespoon chopped onion

1 cup crumbs 1 small turnip, diced

Yz cwp stock or water Yz cup chopped celery

1 teaspoon salt 1 small carrot, diced

Y4 teaspoon pepper Flour

The meat should be cut from one-half inch to one inch thick.
"Wipe the steak, remove the skin and lay the meat out flat on
a board. Make a dressing of the crumbs, stock or water, salt,
pepper, chopped onion and a small amount of celery and spread
it on the meat. Roll the steak with the grain, so that when it
is cut it may be cut across the grain of the meat. Place the
diced vegetables in a roasting-pan and on them lay the rolled
steak. Add two or three cups of water, depending upon the
size of the pan. Cover and bake in a slow oven (3 50° F.) for
three hours, or until tender.

If you prefer to cook this meat on top of the stove, melt one-
half cup of suet in the bottom of a flat-bottomed iron or
heavy aluminum kettle, flour the meat thickly and lay the roll
in the kettle. Turn from side to side until it is well browned,
then add hot water nearly to cover, and simmer slowly for
three hours.

When the meat is cooked, remove it from the kettle or roast-
ing-pan and thicken the broth, using one to two tablespoons of
flour to each cup of gravy.

BRAISED OX-TAIL

1 ox- tail (cut in two-inch 2 tablespoons flour
pieces) 1 cup hot water

2 tablespoons fat 1 cup tomatoes
2 small onions 3 bay-leaves

1 carrot 3 whole cloves

1 tablespoon chopped celery Salt and pepper

Saute the pieces of ox-tail in the fat. Add the sliced onionj
and carrot and the chopped celery, and brown all together.

MEAT 241

Sprinkle with browned flour. Add the hot water, tomatoes,
bay-leaves, cloves, salt and pepper. Put into a casserole and
cook slowly (350° F.) until the meat falls from the bones.

BRAISED BEEF

2' to 3 pounds brisket or 1 chopped onion

round of beef 1 chopped carrot

Drippings or other fat for 1 tablespoon chopped parsley

sauteing Yz cup diced celery

2 tablespoons butter or other 1 cup canned tomatoes

fat Salt and paprika

Cut the meat into cubes; brown in hot frying-pan with
drippings. Stir the meat so it will cook quickly and not lose
its juices. Tender cuts can be cooked whole. Remove the
pieces to a closely covered kettle that can be used either on top
of the range or in the oven. Rinse the pan with a quarter cup
of boiling water to save all browned bits, and pour this over
the meat. Cover tightly and cook slowly for two hours.

For the Sauce, melt butter or other fat and brown the
onion and carrot in it. Add parsley, celery and tomatoes.
Heat thoroughly. Add seasonings. Pour the sauce over the
meat and continue cooking for another hour.

BEEFSTEAK PIE

2 pounds rump, flank or Sliced potatoes

chuck steak Butter or other fat

Pie paste Flour

Chopped onion Egg

Salt and pepper

Cut the meat into strips two inches long by one inch wide.
Put them with the bone, just cover them with water and sim-
mer about an hour. Line the sides of a baking-dish with pie
paste; put in a layer of meat with a few thin slices of onion,
and sprinkle with salt and pepper; next add a layer of sliced
potatoes, with bits of butter dotted over it. Alternate the steak
and potato layers until the dish is full. Thicken the gravy
with browned flour and pour in, put on a top crust, brush it
with beaten egg and bake at 450° F. until quite brown — about
thirty minutes.

242

ROAST BEEF WITH YORKSHIRE PUDDING

In preparing beef for roasting, trim it carefully then skewer
and tie it into shape. Rub the lean parts with drippings and
rub the whole with salt, pepper and flour.

Place the standing or rolled rib roast fat side up in an open
roasting pan. Then the roast will baste itself. Insert meat
thermometer so that bulb reaches the center of the largest
muscle, taking care that it does not rest on the fat or bone.
Roast in a slow oven (300-3 50° F.) or, if a brov/n crust is
wanted, start in hot oven (500° F.) for 20 minutes, then reduce
to 300° F. until done as desired. The thermometer will read
140° F. for rare, 160° F. for medium, 170° F. for well done.
The time per pound needed is 18-22 minutes for rare; 22-25 for
medium and 27-30 for well done. For making gravy, see page
314.

Yorkshire Pudding —

1 cup flour 1 cup milk

Y2 teaspoon salt 2 t%%s

Put flour, salt, milk and eggs together in a bowl. Beat well
with a rotary egg-beater. Pour drippings to the depth of one
inch into a shallow pan. Have the drippings hot and pour in
the mixture quickly. Bake for one-half hour in a hot oven
(400° -42 5° F.). The pudding may then be placed under the
trivet that holds the roast beef and left for about fifteen min-
utes to catch the gravy that flows from the roast. If a trivet
is not used, cut the pudding into squares and lay them around
the roast in the pan. Serve the pudding with the beef.

FILLET MIGNON

Beef fillet Salt and pepper

Salt pork Flour

Butter or other fat

The fillet is the under side of the loin of beef, the tenderloin.
The skin and fat should be removed with a sharp knife, and
also every shred of muscle and ligament. If the fillet is not
then of a good round shape, skewer it until it is so. Lard the
upper surface with strips of fat salt pork and rub the entire
surface with soft butter or other fat. Dredge well with salt,
pepper and flour, and place the fillet, without water, in a small

^HM

MEAT 243

pan. Bake in a moderate oven (350° F.) to the desired degree
of doneness, 40 to 60 minutes. Serve, cut into 2 inch sHces,
accompanied with mushroom sauce or sauteed mushrooms.

BROILED STEAK

1 porterhouse, sirloin Salt and pepper

or club steak 2 tablespoons butter

Select a steak at least 1 to 1 J4 inches thick. Heat the broiler
for 1 0 minutes with regulator set at 3 5 0 ° F. Arrange steak on a
rack. Place rack 4 inches under heat. Broil for half the specified
time, season with salt and pepper, turn and broil on other side.
Remove to a hot platter. Place butter on top of steak, sprinkle
with salt and pepper and serve at once. Allow Yz pound of meat
per person.

Broiling Time

Degree of

Doneness 1 inch thick 1 Yz inches thick

Rare 9 to 10 minutes 14 to 16 minutes

Medium 12 to 14 '' 18 to 20

Well done 16 to 1 8 '' 25 to 30 "

PAN BROILED STEAK

Heat a heavy skillet until sizzling hot. Place meat in hot pan
and brown well on both sides. Reduce temperature and cook
until the desired degree of doneness, turning from time to time,
being careful not to pierce meat. Pour off fat as it accumulates
in the pan. Place meat on a hot platter, spread with butter and
season with salt and pepper.

With Mushrooms

Use mushroom caps, whole or sliced. Saute slowly in hot
butter 5 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Allow 2 tablespoons
butter for Y2 pound mushrooms.

With Onions

Slice onions into water and drain. Place in a shallow sauce-
pan, cover closely, and cook over a slow heat for fifteen or
twenty minutes, till tender. No water or fat should be used.

,^:>^»^^

244

as the onions contain both moisture and richness. Pan-broil
the steak. Put the onions into the pan in which the steak was
cooked and brown them. Serve steak with onions around it.

With Oysters.

1 quart oysters 3 tablespoons butter or other

1 tablespoon sifted flour fat

Set the oysters, with a very little of their juice, over the fire;
when they come to a boil, remove any scum and stir in the fat
in which the sifted flour has been rubbed. Boil one minute^
pour over the steak and serve at once.

PLANKED STEAK

1 tender steak, 2 inches thick Butter

Duchess potatoes Minced parsley

Various kinds of cooked Salt

vegetables Paprika

Trim the fat and make outline of the steak even. Sear it on
both sides on a hot griddle or pan, using no fat, or on a broiler.
Cook fifteen minutes, turning frequently. Oil a heated plank
(see directions for planked fish) , place the steak on the plank,
and arrange border of Duchess potatoes around it. Arrange
other cooked vegetables, such as stuffed tomatoes or green
peppers^ small boiled onions, peas, string beans and cubes of
carrot or turnip, around the steak, also, so that the board is
entirely concealed. Place the plank in the oven until the potato
border is browned and all the vegetables are heated through.
After removing it from the oven, spread the steak with butter
into which has been rubbed minced parsley^ salt and paprika.
Send to table upon the plank.

HAMBURG STEAK

2 pounds chopped beef Onion-juice

54 pound suet Flour

Butter Salt and pepper

Have the butcher chop the beef and suet together twice.
Press it into a flat steak about three-fourths of an inch thick,
sprinkle with salt, pepper, a little onion-juice and flour. Broil
on a fine wire broiler or saute in a little fat. Spread with butter

MEAT 245

and serve on a hot dish. This steak is sometimes shaped into
small, thin, flat cakes. When it is sauted, a gravy may be made
by thickening the juices in the pan, to which a little water has
been added. Two tablespoons of melted butter and one table-
spoon minced onion mixed with the meat and seasonings im-
proves Hamburg steak.

BAKED HAMBURG STEAK

1/4 pounds chopped beef 2 eggs

2 cups bread soaked in milk 4 hard-cooked eggs
1 small onion,, minced 1 cup tomatoes

1 tablespoon butter or other Yz cup sliced onion

fat Salt, pepper, ginger

Have the meat put through the grinder twice. Add the
bread, the onion, seasonings to taste and the two uncooked
eggs, well-beaten. Arrange the hard-cooked eggs end to end
across the middle of the meat and roll the meat mixture around
them. Place the roll in a baking-pan, pour over it a sauce com-
posed of the tomatoes, sliced onions, butter or other fat and
water, and bake in moderate oven (350°-375° F.) for about
two hours^ basting frequently with sauce. In serving, slice the
roll crosswise. The hard-cooked eggs may be omitted.

BEEF BALLS

154 pounds beef from the 1 egg

shank Flour

Yi cup bread-crumbs Salt and pepper

3 tablespoons soft fat 1 teaspoon lemon-juice
1 cup stock Nutmeg

Put the meat twice through a food-chopper, add bread-
crumbs, salt, pepper, lemon-juice, a little nutmeg and the beaten
egg. Shape into balls lightly and let them stand for half an hour
or more to become firm, then roll them in flour and brown them
in the frying-pan with the fat. Take out the meat balls, add to
the fat a tablespoon of flour and a cup of stock. Season well, put
the meat balls into this mixture, cover the frying-pan closely
and simmer for an hour and a half.

246

BEEF LOAF

V/z pounds chopped beef 2 teaspoons salt

2 eggs Additional seasonings to suit,

1/4 cups bread-crumbs such as chopped celery or

2 tablespoons chopped parsley onion, poultry seasoning, a

Yz teaspoon pepper dash of thyme, savory, sage,

etc.
Chop the meat. Mix it thoroughly with one unbeaten egg,
bread-crumbs, chopped parsley, pepper and salt. Turn into a
bread pan until almost filled. Press a hollow with spoon and
drop an egg into the opening. Season, cover egg and continue
to fill pan. Bake 40 minutes in hot oven (400° F.), basting
every 8-10 minutes with stock or butter in hot water. Garnish
with parsley or watercress and serve hot with mushroom sauce
or onion sauce. It is simple to serve cold with horse-radish
sauce.

SCALLOPED CORNED BEEF

2 cups cooked corned beef 1 stalk celery

cut into cubes 2 slices onion

1 cup medium white sauce Buttered bread-crumbs

Cook chopped celery and onions in the sauce. Put the
corned beef in a shallow baking-dish and add the sauce.
Sprinkle with buttered bread-crumbs. Cook fifteen to thirty-
minutes in a moderate oven (3 50°-400° F.).

BEEF MIRONTON

Sliced cooked beef 6 onions

1 cup bouillon or 1 to 2 tablespoons fat

1 cup water mixed with 1 tablespoon flour

canned tomato sauce 2 tablespoons vinegar

Salt and pepper Bread-crumbs

Slice the onions and brown them in fat in a frying-pan.
Add the flour and brown. Then add the vinegar, and the
bouillon or the water and tomato sauce. Cook together until
slightly thickened, stirring constantly. Season with salt and
pepper. Smother the slices of beef in the sauce for a few min-
utes. Pour into a baking-dish ; sprinkle some bread-crumbs over
the top and bake for ten minutes in a hot oven (400° F.).

MEAT 247

FRICASSEE OF BEEF

Sliced cooked beef J4 teaspoon pepper

2 tablespoons flour 2 cups water

3 tablespoons fat 1 teaspoon onion-juice
IJ/2 teaspoons salt

Season the meat with salt and pepper. Make a sauce of the
fat, flour and water, and remainder of the seasonings. Add the
cold meat and cook gently for three minutes, if it is rare beef,
mutton or game; if the meat is veal or poultry, it may cook
longer. Serve on a hot dish with a border of rice^ mashed po-
tatoes or toast.

BEEF HASH

2 cups chopped cold roast 1 cup beef gravy or hot water

beef or steak 4 tablespoons butter or other

2 to 4 cups chopped boiled fat
potatoes

Put the fat into a frying-pan and then put in the meat and
potato, salt and pepper, moisten with beef gravy or hot water
and cover. Let it steam or heat through throughly, stirring
occasionally to mix it evenly and also to keep it from sticking.
When done, it should be neither watery nor dry, but just firm
enough to stand well when dished. If a drier hash is liked,
reduce the liquid, and after the hash has been thoroughly
heated through remove the cover and allow the hash to brown.
If onion is liked, fry two or three slices in the fat before the
hash is added, or mix a little chopped onion with the meat
and potatoes.

CORNED BEEF HASH

2 cups chopped corned beef 1^ ^^P ^^^^ ^^ water

2 cups chopped cooked po- 2 tablespoons butter or other

tatoes fat
Salt and pepper

Mix beef and potatoes together lightly and season. Pour
the milk into a frying-pan with half the fat and, when this is
warm, turn in the hash, spreading it evenly and placing the
rest of the fat, cut in pieces, on the top. Cover the pan and
place it where the hash will cook slowly for half an hour. There
should then be a rich, thick crust on the bottom. Do not stir

248

the hash. Fold it as an omelet Is folded and place it on a warm
platter. This slow process of heating the hash gives it a flavor
that can not be obtained by hurried cooking.

CREAMED DRIED BEEF

% pound dried beef 4 tablespoons floxir

2 tablespoons butter or other Pepper

fat ^ 1 egg
2 cups milk

Place the butter or other fat and one and one-half cups of
milk in a small frying-pan. When hot, add the beef, shredded.
Cook three minutes. Rub the flour smooth in one-half cup
cold milk, add a dash of pepper and stir into the beef. As
soon as it thickens, draw the pan back, simmer five minutes,
add the well-beaten egg and serve at once. The hot gravy will
cook the egg sufficiently* The egg may be omitted.

Veal
VEAL POT PIE

3 pounds veal Salt and pepper

2 onions 5 potatoes

The neck, ends of ribs, knuckle, breast or shoulder may be
used. Cut the meat into two-inch cubes and place them in a
kettle with the onion, salt and pepper, and just enough hot
water to cover them. Simmer until the meat is tender, about
an hour usually being sufficient. Strips of salt pork are some-
times cooked with the veal and add much to the flavor. Half
an hour before serving, add the potatoes^ cut in halves, and
cook them with the meat.

Place dumplings around the edge of a platter and with a
skimmer lift the meat and potato from the kettle and lay them
in the center. Thicken the gravy in the kettle with a little
flour stirred to a thin smooth paste with water. Pour the gravy
over meat and dumplings. (The Index will tell you where
to find the recipe for dumplings.)

MEAT 249

BRAISED VEAL

5 pounds veal 1 tablespoon sliced onion

2 tablespoons butter or other Salt and pepper
fat 4 cups boiling water

The breast, neck, shoulder, ends of ribs or knuckle may be
used. Heat the fat and onion in a kettle. Season the veal with
salt and pepper, put it into the kettle and sear it on all sides
until brown. Pour over it the boiling water and cover tightly.
Set the kettle in a slow oven (350° F.) and bake for two and
one-half hours. Serve either hot or cold. If served hot, make
a thick-ened sauce of the liquor in the kettle. When cold, the
gravy will form a jelly to serve with the cold meat.

VEAL PIE

2 pounds veal 2 tablespoons fat

Puff paste or other rich paste 1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons flour Pepper

Cut the meat into small pieces and stew until tender. Line
a baking-dish with paste. Set a small Inverted cup in the middle
of the d&sh. Put in the meat, dredge it with flour, add fat and
seasor^ing, and nearly cover with the stock in which the meat
was cooked. Cover with paste. Bake thirty minutes in a quick
oven (450° F.). If one-half pound of good salt pork or ham
is cut in thin slices and parboiled with the veal, a nice flavor is
added and very little, if any, butter need then be used, nor is
any other salt necessary. Hard-cooked eggs cut in slices and
arranged in layers on the veal and ham are an addition to this
dish. When serving, lift the inverted cup and let the gravy
flow back into the dish.

VEAL CUTLETS WITH CREAM GRAVY

2 pounds veal cutlets Drippings

Salt and pepper 1 cup milk or cream

Egg 1 tablespoon flour
Bread or cracker-crumbs

"Wipe the cutlets, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip them first
in beaten egg and then in fine bread or cracker-crumbs, and
saut^ in drippings until brown. If preferred, they may be cut

250

into small pieces of similar size and pounded with a rolling-
pin until little more than a quarter of an inch in thickness and
then egged and crumbed and sauted. The cutlets should be
thoroughly browned on both sides. Place them on a platter,
add cream to the gravy in the pan, and thicken slightly with
flour rubbed to a smooth paste with a little cold water. They
may be served with slices of bacon.

VEAL CUTLETS AND SOUP

3 pounds veal shank 3 cups brown stock

Crumbs A few peppercorns

Salt Celery salt

Egg Yz cup diced potatoes

Butter or other fat Yz cup diced turnips

Cook a veal shank in boiling salted water until tender. Re-
move as much meat as possible from the bone and cut the pieces
to resemble chops. Season the veal well. Roll in crumbs, q%%
and crumbs again, and saute in butter or other fat.

For the soup, take the remaining portion of the shank and
put it into a kettle with the stock, peppercorns, salt, celery salt,
and any other seasonings desired. Add the potatoes, turnips,
and a little parsley. Cook for one-half hour.

VEAL COLLOPS

2 pounds veal
Egg

Cracker-crumbs
Salt and pepper

Cut the veal in pieces the size of an oyster, dip in beaten t%'g^
roll in cracker-crumbs and season with salt and pepper. Fry in
deep fat (375°-400° F.).

VEAL AND HAM

Vz pound sliced ham Salt and pepper

1 Yz pounds veal cutlets

Fry the ham, using no fat unless the meat is unusually lean.
Remove the ham and place on the serving-dish. Cook the veal
in the juices left from the ham, frying without covering until
it is a deep brown. Put the veal on the same dish with the
ham, add a little water to the gravy, season with salt and pepper,
and pour it, without thickening, over the meat.

MEAT 251

ROAST VEAL

4 pounds veal Flour

Salt and pepper Fat or salt pork or bacon

A roast may be cut from the leg, the loin, the rack, or the
shoulder, or the breast may be boned for a roast. A fillet of
five or six pounds from the heaviest part is the most economical
for roasting. If the leg is used, it should be boned at the market,
and the bone should be used for stock. Stuffing improves many
roasts of veal (see recipes below).

Wipe the meat, dredge with salt, pepper and flour and place
it in a pan with some fat. Place in a slow oven (300° F.) and
roast uncovered and without adding water until tender. Allow
2 5 to 30 minutes per pound. If desired make an incision in meat
and insert a roast meat thermometer so that the bulb reaches
the center of the fleshiest part. When the thermometer registers
170° F. the veal will be well done. Allow about J/3 pound per
serving.

ROLLED VEAL LOIN

6 pounds loin of veal 1 tablespoon grated lemon rind

1/2 pound boiled ham I/2 teaspoon salt

2 hard-cooked eggs l/g teaspoon pepper

1 cup bread crumbs 1 egg, slightly beaten

y^ teaspoon chopped thyme Salt pork or bacon

1 teaspoon chopped parsley

Fiave the kidney end of the loin carefully boned and cut
into a long shape like a flap. Line it with slices of boiled ham and
hard-cooked eggs. Remove all the skin and fat from the kidney,
chop fine and mix with bread crumbs, thyme, parsley, lemon
rind, salt and pepper. Add beaten egg and blend thoroughly.
Spread over the veal on top of the sliced ham and eggs. Roll
the meat and sew or fasten tightly with skewers. Arrange strips
of salt pork or bacon over roll. Place in a slow oven (300° F.)
and roast without covering and without adding water until
tender, 2 5 to 30 minutes per pound. If a meat thermometer is
used it will register 170° F. when meat is well done. Allow ]/}
pound per serving. Serve with brown gravy. This is delicious
served cold. Garnish with spiced peaches or apricot halves in
pineapple rings.

252

STUFFED BREAST OF VEAL

4 pounds breast of veal y^ teaspoon pepper

2 cups bread crumbs y^ cup minced onion

y^ cup salt pork drippings I/2 cup diced celery

1 teaspoon salt 1/2 ^^P ^^^ water

Have a pocket cut in veal breast. Make a stuffing by com-
bining remaining ingredients and tossing together lightly. Pack
stuffing into pocket and sew or skewer edges together. Brown
the meat in hot fat, then add % cup water, cover and cook in
a moderate oven (3 50°F.) 1 ^ to 2 hours or until tender.

Variations — Add Yz cup cooked pitted prunes, apricots or
seedless raisins to the stuffing.

Stuff breast with cooked and seasoned rice or noodles.

VEAL LOAF

254 pounds veal, knuckle 1 cup water or stock

or shin 1 egg

y^ pound salt pork Yz teaspoon sage

2 teaspoons salt 2 tablespoons butter or other
1 teaspoon chopped onion fat

1 cup cracker-crumbs

Chop the veal and pork very fine and add salt, onion,
crumbs, one-half of the water or stock, the egg and sage. Mix
all well together. Oil a small pan and press the mixture into
it like a loaf, making it about six inches high. Cook for two
and one-half hours in a moderate oven (350° F.) basting with
the remainder of the water or stock, in which the butter or
other fat has been melted. This may be served hot or cold. If
served hot a white sauce may accompany it.

JELLIED VEAL

A knuckle of veal Stalk of celery

Yz onion Salt and pepper

Few slices carrot

Place the veal in boiling water, and simmer until tender,
together with the carrot, onion and celery. Remove the veal
from the liquid and cool both. When the meat is nearly cold,
cut it into tiny cubes, or chop it fine; remove the fat from the
broth, reheat the liquid and stir the veal into it, adding salt

MEAT 253

and pepper, and other seasoning if desired. Pack the hot mix-
ture into a mold, cover with oiled paper, cover and let stand
until set. Slice thin and serve cold.

BARBECUED ROAST

3 or 4-pound roast — lamb, 4 cups beef stock
mutton, pork or beef % teaspoon dry mustard

y2 cup salad oil Dash pepper

2 tablespoons vinegar % teaspoon celery salt
1 cup water Salt to season, about 1
i/^ cup flour teaspoon

Select meat which can be easily sliced across the grain. Mix
salad oil and vinegar together and let meat stand in the mix-
ture overnight. Place meat in a baking dish, add water and
mixture in which meat was marinated. Bake, uncovered in a
3 50° F. oven for 1 Yz to 2 hours or until tender. Baste several
times during the roasting period and turn once so meat will be
browned on both sides. Add additional water, if necessary.
About Yz hour before serving time, remove Y3 cup fat from
the baking dish, to a skillet, blend in flour and cook until flour
is brown. Add beef stock or its equivalent in canned soup
or dissolved bouillon cubes, gradually, stirring constantly. Add
remaining seasonings. Serve sliced, in a heated covered dish,
with sauce in a separate hot bowl — for 6 to 8 persons.

PORK CHOPS WITH BARBECUE SAUCE

6 pork chops Barbecue sauce

"Wipe the pork chops with a damp cloth and dust with flour.
Sear on both sides until browned, then place 1 tablespoon sauce
on each chop. Reduce heat, cover and cook slowly 5 to 8
minutes. Turn chops and place 1 tablespoon of sauce on other
side. Cover and cook slowly until tender. Serve with sauce.

Barbecue Sauce

4 tablespoons minced onion 1 tablespoon salt

1 cup tomato puree 1 teaspoon paprika

% cup water 1 teaspoon chili powder

3 tablespoons vinegar ^ teaspoon pepper

2 tablespoons Worcester- l^ teaspoon cinnamon
shire sauce Dash ground cloves

Combine all ingredients in order listed. Heat to boiling and
use as directed above.

254

Mutton and Lamb

The flavor of mutton may be reduced by rubbing the meat
with lemon-juice or by putting slices of lemon in the water
in which the mutton is boiled. Mutton marinated in oil and
vinegar or in spiced vinegar becomes very tender. The marinade
also tends to absorb or neutralize the mutton flavor. Mutton
may be served rare, but lamb should be well cooked. Mutton
should always be served very hot, with caper sauce, mint sauce,
tart jelly or spiced fruit.

BARBECUED LAMB or MUTTON

6-pound leg lamb l/^ cup catchup

2 teaspoons salt 2 tablespoons A-1 sauce

Flour 2 tablespoons Worcester-

1 onion, sliced shire sauce

1 cup water l/^ teaspoon cayenne

Wipe leg of lamb with damp cloth, rub with salt and dredge
with flour. Place in a roasting pan and surround with onion.
Combine remaining ingredients, mix well and pour over meat.
Roast in a 3 50° F. oven 3 0 minutes for each pound. Baste every
20 minutes with the sauce. Serves 8.

LAMB STEW

2 pounds lamb cubes, shank, 6 potatoes

breast, neck or shoulder 6 carrots

2 tablespoons flour 3 onions

2 tablespoons butter or other 4 white turnips

fat 1 cup fresh peas

Salt and pepper 3 tomatoes

Hot water Flour

Dredge lamb with flour and brown well in hot fat. Season
with salt and pepper, cover with water and simmer until nearly
tender, 1 to 1 ^ hours. Add peeled vegetables, except tomatoes,
whole or cut in cubes and simmer 30 minutes longer or until
tender. Add tomatoes and simmer 10 minutes longer. Mix a
little flour with water to a smooth paste and add enough to the
liquid to thicken slightly. Serves 6.

MEAT 255

BRAISED LEG OF LAMB OR MUTTON

1/2 cup each finely chopped 6 whole cloves

celery, carrot and onion 1 clove garlic

2 tablespoons drippings or 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
other fat 12 peppercorns

3 cups vinegar l/^ bay leaf

3 cups water 1 tablespoon salt

1 leg lamb or mutton 1 pint sour cream

Yj teaspoon each of powdered I/2 pint stock
thyme and marjoram

Saute celery, carrot, and onion in drippings until light brown,
add vinegar and water and cook until vegetables are tender.
Cool. Place meat in deep dish, pour first mixture over meat,
being careful to have meat entirely covered. Add seasonings.
Marinate meat in this mixture for 24 hours. Drain and dry
thoroughly. Place in roasting pan, bake in moderately slow
oven (300° to 325° F.) for 30 minutes. Add sour cream and
stock, cover and cook until tender, allowing 30 to 3 5 minutes
per pound. Baste frequently. Boil liquor in which meat was
marinated until only a small amount remains, strain and pour
over meat when serving.

ROAST STUFFED SHOULDER OF LAMB

3-4 pound shoulder lamb 2 recipes Bread Stuffing

Salt and pepper No. 2 (page 303)

Have shoulder bone removed from shoulder and sew on 2
sides, leaving 1 side open for stuffing. Season with salt and
pepper. Fill cavity in meat with stuffing and sew or skewer
edges together. Place fat side up on rack in an open roasting pan
and roast in moderately slow oven (300° to 350° F.) until
tender, allowing 3 5 to 40 minutes per pound. Serves 6.

Variations — 1. Add Yz cup chopped mint to stuffing.

2. Add Y2 cup finely chopped dried apricots to stuffing.

3. Omit milk in stuffing and add 1 cup tomato pulp.

4. Saute Y2 pound sliced mushrooms in melted fat with onion
and proceed with stuffing as directed.

5. Use Sausage Stuffing (page 305) in place of Bread Stuffing.

6. In place of Bread Stuffing use Y2 recipe Pineapple-Nut
Stuffing or Rice Stuffing (page 305).

256

MUTTON CHOPS

6 mutton chops Oil Salt and pepper

Mutton chops should be not less than one inch thick. The
best way to cook them is to broil them. Sprinkle with salt
and pepper, oil on both sides and broil, turning very often.
Have them slightly underdone, and serve on a hot chop-dish,
garnishing with French fried potatoes and sprigs of parsley.

If preferred these chops may be breaded. Select chops with
little fat, or trim off the fat, dip them in well-beaten egg, roll
in cracker crumbs, and fry in deep fat (375°-400° F.). Serve
with tomato sauce.

BROILED LAMB PATTIES

11^ pounds ground lamb 1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons grated onion l^ teaspoon pepper

Mix all ingredients thoroughly. Shape into thick patties.
Place on a rack under preheated broiler, about 3 inches from
source of heat so that by the time the patties are browned on
the top they will be half done. Turn and brown on other side.
Allow about 1 5 minutes. Serves 6,

ROAST CROWN OF LAMB

1 crown of lamb or mutton 1 recipe Mushroom Stuffing

Salt and pepper (page 305)

Sliced salt pork

A crown is usually prepared at the market and is made by
shaping the ribs (12-15) into a crown and frenching or scrap-
ing the rib ends. Season with salt and pepper. Fill center of
crown with stuffing. Wrap rib ends with salt pork or bacon
slices. Place crown on a rack in an open roasting pan and roast
in a moderately slow oven (300° to 350°F.) until as well done
as desired, allowing 30 to 3 5 minutes per pound. To serve,
remove salt pork from rib ends and slip paper frills over them.
Allow 2 ribs to each serving.

Variations — Do not stuff. Roast crown upside down with-
out wrapping ribs. To serve, turn right side up and fill center
with vegetables: mashed potatoes, potato balls, peas, diced
carrots or cooked whole cauliflower.

BREAST OF LAMB
READY FOR STUFF-
ING.

ROAST ON RACK,

NO COVER, NO

WATER. SERVE

WITH STUFFED

ONIONS

— U. S. Bureau Home

Economics

MEAT

257

LAMB OR MUTTON CUTLETS

2 pounds loin cutlets Flour Salt and pepper

Trim the cutlets and remove the fat, dip them in cold water,
season with pepper and salt and sprinkle flour on both sides.
Wet the inside of a thick saucepan with cold water, leaving
about two tablespoons of the latter in the pan. Lay the cutlets
in flat, place over a gentle fire and simmer for one hour or
more, turning the cutlets when half done. Unless cooked slowly,
the cutlets will not be tender or good. Season and serve with
pan gravy. A little water may be added to the gravy, if
necessary.

ROAST LEG OF LAMB

1 leg lamb (5 to 6 pounds) II/2 tablespoons salt

y^ teaspoon pepper

Have shank bone removed at the market, if desired. Do not
remove the fell. Rub meat with salt and pepper. Place, fat
side up, on rack in an uncovered roasting pan. Roast in a
moderately slow oven (300°-325°F.) 30 to 35 minutes to the
pound, or until a meat thermometer registers 175° to 180° F.
Place on a hot platter and garnish with sliced pineapple and
sprigs of watercress.

1. Rub meat with the cut edge of a clove of garlic or place
slivers of garlic into deep narrow gashes cut in meat, or insert
clove of garlic into joint of leg and remove before serving.

2. Rub 1 teaspoon ginger over surface of meat.

3. Baste lamb with vinegar which has been seasoned with
finely cut mint leaves.

4. Baste lamb with a mixture of Yz cup tomato catchup and
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce.

5. Rub meat with Yz cup finely chopped mint leaves. Baste
meat frequently the last hour of roasting with Yz cup grape
jelly melted in Y2 cup hot water.

6. Rub 2 cups cooked apricots and juice through a sieve,
add ^ cup sugar and cook until thickened. Baste roast with this
during last hour of roasting.

7. Cover meat with pineapple slices 1 hour before meat Is
done. Brush with butter so that pineapple will brown.

258

FRENCH LAMB CHOPS

French chops are made by scraping the meat and fat from
the bones of rib chops for a Httle distance from the end. Broil
them over a quick fire, season with salt and pepper, and serve.

They may be sauteed or fried. When cooked in this way,
they are breaded — that is, seasoned with salt and pepper and
dipped in beaten egg and then in cracker crumbs.

STUFFED LAMB BREAST

Lamb breast and foreshank 1 cup cooked rice or barley

Salt and pepper 1 tablespoon grated onion

Have foreshank removed from breast and the meat ground.
Have bones of breast cracked so that the meat may be carved
between the ribs. Make a pocket lengthwise in the breast by
cutting the meat close to the ribs. Sprinkle pocket with salt
and pepper. Combine ground meat from the foreshank with
cooked rice or barley. Season with onion, salt and pepper. Fill
pocket with stuffing and sew or skewer edges together. Sprinkle
outside with salt and pepper. Place uncovered in a pan and bake
in a moderately slow oven (300° to 350° F.) for 1 hour, then
cover and continue cooking until tender, about 1 hour longer.
Serves 6.

Variations — Add curry powder to rice stuffing. Fill breast
with Bread Stuffing (page 303 ) .

Pork

PORK TENDERLOIN

1 pound tenderloin 3 tablespoons bacon drippings

Flour Salt and pepper

% cup sour cream

Cut tenderloin crosswise into 2 -inch slices. Flatten out and
dredge with flour. Place in hot skillet containing drippings.
Brown on both sides and season with salt and pepper. Reduce
temperature, add cream, cover and simmer until tender, about
20 minutes. Serves 6.

Variations — Place unflattened slices on a baking sheet.
Spread with a thick layer of catchup and bake in a moderate
over (350° F.) until tender, about 45 minutes.

Broiled — Do tiot flatten. Broil as for steaks, (page 243).

MEAT 259

ROAST SPARERIBS

2 pounds spareribs Salt and pepper

Place spareribs in a shallow baking dish and sprinkle with
salt and pepper. Roast in a moderately slow oven (300° to
325° F.) about 1 Yz hours. Allow 1 pound per serving.

Cover spareribs with greased paper and roast for y^ hour,
then roast, uncovered for remaining time. Just before taking
meat from oven, sprinkle with 1 cup bread crumbs seasoned with
54 teaspoon each of sage and minced onion. Baste with drippings
in pan and return to oven 5 minutes longer.

Stuffed Spareribs — Use 2 matching sections of spareribs.
Sew the edges together, except at 1 end. Fill with Bread Stuffing,
Celery Stuffing (page 304) or apple stuffing, and sew or skewer
the edges together. Bake in a moderately slow oven (300° to
325° F.) for XVz hours.

Barbecued Spareribs — Brown spareribs under broiler. Pour
Barbecue Sauce (page 253) over ribs, cover pan and bake.

With Sauerkraut — Brown spareribs. Place sauerkraut in
a greased baking dish. Sprinkle with brown sugar. Add J/z cup
water and arrange spareribs on top. Cover dish and cook in a
moderately slow oven (300° to 325° F.) for 1 hour.

Braised Spareribs — Place spareribs in a baking dish and
brown in a hot oven (450° F.). Season with salt and pepper,
add Yz cup water, cover pan and return to oven. Reduce
temperature to moderately slow (325° F.) and continue cooking
until tender, about 40 minutes longer. If desired, place cored
apples around the ribs. Fill centers of apples with brown sugar
and nut meats or raisins.

CROWN AND CANDLE ROAST OF PORK

Crown of pork Pepper

1 1/2 tablespoons salt Cubes of salt pork

Have crown prepared at the market. Rub salt and pepper
into meat. Cover tip of each bone with salt pork. Roast in a
moderate oven (350° F.) allowing 30 minutes per pound. To
serve, replace salt pork with paper frills. If desired, center of
roast may be filled with stuffing and baked. See Roast Lamb
(page 256). For candle roast, do not roll ribs but leave loin in
one straight piece. Roast with fat side up.

26o

SAUTEED PORK CHOPS

Pork chops are delicious sauted. They require from twenty
to thirty minutes. Some cooks sprinkle a little powdered sage
over them, as well as salt and pepper, and thicken the gravy
with flour. Sauted apples are delicious served wilii the sauted
pork chops. Tomato sauce is good also.

PORK PIE

2 or 3 pounds thick end of Salt and pepper

loin of pork 1 or 2 tablespoons catchup

1 cup stock or water Parsley

Plain pie paste Onion

Cut pork into thick slices three inches long by two wide.
Put a layer on the bottom of a pie-plate and sprinkle chopped
parsley and onion, salt and pepper over it. Repeat until the
dish is full and then pour in stock or water and catchup. Put
a strip of good plain paste around the edge of the dish, cover
with the paste, cut an opening in the center, and set the pie
in a hot oven (450° F.). When the crust rises and begins to
color, place the pie in the bottom of the oven, put a piece of
paper over it and bake at a lower temperature (350*" F.) for
two hotirs. Often the meat is partly cooked before the crust
is put on.

FRESH PORK WITH VBGBTABUBS

1 pound pork butt 1 small red cabbage

4 large carrots Seasoning

4 large parsnips

Simmer the piece of pork one and one-half hovurs. Cook the
vegetables in tie same kettle until they are soft, then remove
tiiem and finish cooking the meat. Cut the pork into thin
slices. Arrange them side by side down the middle of a large
platter, and make a border of the cabbage, quart^:^, and the
other vegetables cut into lengths.

Boiled. -PIGS' FEET

6 pigs* feet 1^ tablespoons sa^It 1

Scrape and wash the feet thoroughly and tie eadi separatsely

in a piece of cheese-cloth. Put them into a kettle or stew-pan,

«"

MEAT 261

cover with boiling water and add the salt. Let the water boH
up once, then set back on the fire and simmer for six hours.
Cool in the water. When cold, drain, but do not take off the
cloth, and place the feet on a platter. The next day they will
be ready for broiling, frying or pickling.

Broiled.

6 boiled pigs' feet Flour

Salt and pepper Butter

Split each foot, dredge with salt, pepper and flour and broil
over clear coals for ten minutes. Serve on a hot platter, season-
ing with butter, salt and pepper.

Fried.

I 6 boiled pigs' feet 1 egg

Salt and pepper Bread-crumbs

Lemon-juice

I Split the feet and season well with salt, pepper and lemon-
juice. Dip in beaten egg, then in bread-crumbs and fry five
minutes in deep fat (375°-390° F.). Drain and serve imme-
diately.

Browned.

6 boiled pigs' feet Butter or other fat

Yz cup crumbs 2 cups boiled beets, fresh or
I 1 egg canned

Dip the feet in beaten egg, then in crumbs, and brown in
fat. Bake in casserole at 350° F., basting with butter or other
fat. Serve in the casserole with beets surrounding the pigs'
feet.

Pickled (Souce).

4 good-sized boiled pigs' feet, 1 tablespoon broken cinnamon

with uppers J4 cup salt

1 quart strong vinegar 2 teaspoons pepper

4 bay-leaves Yz onion

1 tablespoon whole cloves .1 blade mace

Clean the feet carefully, and cover them with hot water.
Boil ^owly until the meat will separate from the bones, then
take them up carefully on a skimmer^ and place them in a
stone jar, taking out the largest bones. Set the water aside in
a cool place to be used later.

2.^2

Place the vinegar on the fire, adding bay -leaves, cloves, cinna-
mon, salt, pepper, onion cut in eighths, and mace. Steep slowly
in the vinegar for forty-five minutes, but do not allow the
vinegar to boil rapidly at any time. Remove the fat cake from
the top of the water in which the feet were boiled, and save it
for cooking purposes. Add about one quart of the water to
the vinegar; if the vinegar is not very strong, less water must
be added, so that the vinegar may not be too much diluted.
Strain the liquid through a sieve to remove the spice, etc., and
pour it over the meat in the jar, helping it through the meat
with a knife and fork until the two are thoroughly mixed. Set
the jar in a cold place for two days.

SCRAPPLE

1 hog's head Corn-meal

Salt and pepper Buckwheat flour

Powdered herbs

Scrape and clean a hog's head, then split it and take out the
eyes and brain. The butcher will do this, if requested. Clean
the ears and scrape them well. Put all on to boil in plenty of
cold water and simmer gently for four hours, or until the bones
will easily slip from the meat. Lift out the meat and bones into
a colander, remove the bones and chop the meat fine. Skim
off every particle of grease from the water in which the meat
was boiled, and return the meat to the boiling stock in the
kettle. Season highly with salt and pepper and powdered herbs.
Add enough corn-meal and buckwheat flour, in equal quantities,
to make a soft mush, stirring constantly for the first fifteen
minutes, then lower the heat and cook for one hour. Pour
into bread pans, cool, and keep in a cold place until needed.

The scrapple may be served cold or may be cut into slices,
dipped in t%^ and cracker-crumbs and sauted. I

HEAD-CHEESE

1 hog's head with ears and Sage I

tongue Sweet marjoram I

Salt and pepper Powdered cloves ^

Head-cheese is usually made of the head, ears and tongue of
pork. Clean the head with the utmost care and boil all the
meat and bones in salted water until the meat is very tender,

MEAT

263

about two or three hours. Take out the head, place it in a
colander to drain, and remove all the bones. Cut the ears in
very thin slices. Season the whole to taste with salt, pepper,
sage, sweet marjoram and other herbs, and a little powdered
cloves. Mix the mass well, and pack it tightly in a bowl, inter-
spersing layers of the mixture with slices of the boiled ears.
Press the whole into a compact shape and cover with a plate,
on which place a heavy weight. The head-cheese will be ready
to use in two or three days. It may be cut in thin slices and
served with vinegar and mustard, or it may be cut in slices,
dipped in e^g and cracker-crumbs and fried.

BOILED HAM

1 ham Brown sugar Whole cloves

Wash ham thoroughly, cover with boiling water and sim-
mer, partially covered, for 25 to 30 minutes per pound, or until
meat is tender. When cooked the internal temperature will be
(160° F.). If ham is to be served cold, let it stand in water
until it is cold, then peel off skin and serve. If it is to be
served hot, peel off skin, rub with brown sugar, stick in a few
cloves and bake in a hot oven (400° F.) to brown. When-
ever possible follow packers cooking directions.

ROAST OR BAKED HAM

1 ham 1 teaspoon mustard

Brown sugar Whole cloves

Soft bread-crumbs

Cover ham with boiling water, simmer about 20 minutes per
pound. Whenever possible, follow directions given by packers
as to the best method for cooking their hams. Drain and remove
skin. Mix sugar and crumbs in the proportions of four parts
sugar to one of crumbs, add mustard and spread over ham. In-
sert cloves one inch apart, making a diamond pattern. Bake in
a slow oven (300° F.), allowing ten minutes per pound. To
stuff, remove bone; see Stuffings, page 303.

BROILED HAM

Place the slices on broiler and turn them frequently. Either
boiled ham or raw ham may be used for broiling.

264

FRIED HAM WITH CREAM GRAVY

1 pound ham in slices 1 cup milk

about Yz inch thick Pepper

1 tablespoon flour

If the ham is too salt, place it in a frying-pan, cover with
cold water and set the pan on a range in mild heat. When the
steam commences to rise, pour off the water and add more cold
water. As soon as this water steams, lift out the slices of meat
and drain well before frying. Place the meat in a hot pan,
and cook without addition of fat, unless the ham is exception-
ally lean; in this case, a spoonful of drippings should be used.
When the ham is nicely browned, place it on a platter, and
add a cup of milk to the fat in the pan. When this boils,
thicken it to a cream with one or two tablespoons of flour mixed
to a smooth paste with a little cold milk, season with pepper,
then turn the gravy over the ham. A more sim.ple gravy is
made by adding a little hot water to the fat in the pan and
pouring this over the meat.

FRIED HAM AND EGGS

Fry a slice of ham, browning both sides. Break each eg^
separately in a saucer and slip into the hot fat in the frying-
pan. Lower the heat, and baste with the hot fat. As soon as
the color changes, they are done. Place them on top of the
ham and send to the table hot. ^ _

SAUSAGES

1 pound sausage 1 cup milk

1 tablespoon flour Salt and pepper

When cooking sausage in casings, prick the skins thoroughly
with a steel fork to prevent their brusting. If cooking in bulk,
shape the sausage meat into balls with the hands. Place them
in a hot frying-pan and fry until brown, adding no fat, as
there will generally be plenty in the meat. When done, re-
move the sausage to a platter. Pour off all but one tablespoon
of fat, add one tablespoon of dry flour and cook one minute,
stirring all the time; then gradually add one cup of milk, still
stirring. When the gravy is boiling and is of a creamy con-

^HE CANDLE ROAST OF

PORK IS AN INTERESTING

VARIATION

—National Live Stock and ^

Meat Board

m-j"

WHEN THE BONE IS A NUI-
SANCE, REMOVE IT AND
STUFF THE HAM BEFORE
BAKING

THE BROILER OR FRYER IS MORE
DELECTABLE WHEN YOU BREAK
ALL THE JOINTS, CLIP OFF
THE NECK AND BACKBONE
AND SNAP OUT THE BREAST-
BONE. ADD THESE BITS T
YOUR SOUP KETTLE ^

— Institute American Poultry ,
industries

^M^A',

MEAT 265

sistency, add salt and pepper to taste, pour the gravy over the
sausage and serve.

POTTED HAM

1 cup cold cooked ham Powdered mace

Cayenne pepper Mustard

Mince some cold, cooked ham, mixing lean and fat together,
and pound in a mortar, seasoning with a little cayenne pepper,
mace and mustard. Put into a baking-dish and place in the
oven (350° F.) for one-half hour; afterward pack it into pots
or little stone jars, covering with paraffin and papen This is
convenient for sandwiches.

FRIED OR BROILED BACON

Cut the bacon very thin. Place in a hot pan and cook until
brown. Turn the slices frequently, and in cooking a large
quantity remove some of the fat from the pan occasionally.

To broil bacon, place the strips on a broiler and lay the
broiler over a dripping-pan. Bake in the oven or broil under
direct heat. To keep bacon flat, broil between racks.

BACON AND EGGS

Fry lean strips of bacon .until crisp. Remove and lay them
on a platter. Break the eggs separately, gently slide them into
the bacon fat and cook until they are set. See page 373.

FRIED SALT PORK WITH CREAM GRAVY

1 pound salt pork 1 pint milk

10 tablespoons flour Salt and pepper

Cut the slices thin and place them in cold water. After they
have soaked one hour, drain well and dry them on a napkin.
Heat the frying-pan very hot. Place one-half cup (8 table-
spoons) of flour on a plate and dip each piece of meat in it.
Fry until crisp. Drain off all but two tablespoons of the fat
and stir two tablespoons of flour into that remaining in the
pan. Cook two minutes, stirring well, then reduce the heat
and slowly add one pint of milk. When the gravy is smooth,
cook one minute and add pepper and salt, if needed. Turn the
gravy aver the meat and serve.

266

LIVER CASSEROLE

1 pound calf's liver 1 teaspoon Worcestershire

% cup tomato sauce sauce

Dash salt and pepper

Wash liver, cut into 1^-inch cubes and place in casserole.
Add sauce and seasoning, cover and bake at 3 50° F. J/2 hour.
Just before serving, add Worcestershire sauce.

BRAISED LIVER WITH STUFFING

1 calf's liver (about 2 pounds) Flour to dredge

Bread Stuffing No. 2 3 strips salt pork

(page 303) ^2 ^^P water
Salt and pepper

Wipe liver with a damp cloth and dry. Make an incision in
the thickest part using a sharp knife. Fill with stuffing, sew edges
together, season with salt and pepper and dredge with flour.
Place in a baking pan and place strips of salt pork on top. Add
water, cover pan and cook in a moderate oven (350° F.) until
tender, I Yz to 2 hours. About 1 0 minutes before serving remove
cover so that salt pork may brown. Thicken gravy in pan and
serve with meat. Serves 8.

Variation — Bacon may be used in place of salt pork.

LIVER AND BACON

1/^ pound sliced bacon Flour

II/2 pounds calf's liver, cut 1 teaspoon salt

I/2 inch thick 1/^ teaspoon pepper

Place a single layer of bacon in a cool frying pan and place
over low heat. Turn bacon frequently and drain off excess fat
so that the bottom of the pan is well greased. Cook slowly until
bacon is light golden brown and crisped. Drain on absorbent
paper. Keep in a hot place. Wipe liver with a damp cloth and
dry thoroughly. Roll in flour to which salt and pepper have
been added. Saute in drippings at reduced heat 5 to 8 minutes,
until browned on both sides and center is just done. Overcook-
ing ruins liver. Serves 4.

Place the liver in the center of the platter with the bacon

MEAT 267

around it as a garnish. Put flour into the hot fat in the pan
and stir until brown. Make a medium sauce of this browned
flour and water. Season with salt and pepper, and pour the
gravy over the liver and bacon.

SWEETBREADS

Preparing Sweetbreads — Sweetbreads should be plunged
into cold water as soon as they are received, and soaked for one
hour, then they should be parboiled in acidulated, salted water
(one teaspoon salt and one tablespoon vinegar to one quart
water) for twenty minutes. After draining they should be
plunged into cold water again to make them firm. The little
strings and membranes, which are easily detached after parboil-
ing, should be removed.

Broiled.

2 pairs sweetbreads Lemon-juice

Butter Salt and pepper

f Prepare as directed, then cut into thin slices, sprinkle with
salt and pepper, and broil. Serve with melted butter to which
a little lemon-juice has been added.

Fried.

2 pairs sweetbreads Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons flour Egg

I 1 cup milk Bread or cracker-crumbs

Prepare as directed and cut in even-sized slices. Sprinkle
with salt and pepper, dip in beaten Qgg and crumbs and fry in
deep fat. When well browned on both sides, place them on a
platter. Make a sauce with two tablespoons of the fat in which
the sweetbreads were fried, the flour and milk and season with
salt and pepper.
I Fried sweetbreads are often served with green peas, placed
in a mound or a little hill in the center of the platter. Macaroni
may be boiled very tender and laid on the platter and the sweet-
breads placed in the center, the pipes of the macaroni being laid
about them in the form of a nest.

2(^

Creamed.

2 pairs sweetbreads 1 teaspoon minced parsley

4 tablespoons butter or other 2 cups milk or cream

fat Salt and pepper
4 tablespoons flour

Prepare as directed and cut into dice. Make a white sauce
with the fat, flour and milk or cream, add the sweetbreads, and
stir steadily until very hot. Season with salt and pepper and
minced parsley.

Larded.

2 pairs sweetbreads 1 pint seasoned stock

Salt pork for larding 6 slices toast

Prepare sweetbreads as directed. Lard them with salt pork,
letting the ends of the strips curl over the edge of the sweet-
breads. Lay in a roasting-pan, pour the stock over them, cover
and cook in a slow oven (350° F.) for one hour. Serve on
toast. Thicken the gravy in the pan and pour it around them.

STEWED CALF'S HEART

2 calves* hearts 2 tablespoons flour

1 bay-leaf 2 tablespoons butter or other

Salt and pepper fat

Yz lemon

Hearts must be carefully washed and the veins, arteries and
clotted blood removed. After washing, place the hearts in a
kettle with enough boiling water to cover them, and simmer
for one and one-half hours. Remove all the fat, and set aside
to cool. When the dish is intended for breakfast, this cooking
must be done the day before.

In the morning, cut the heart into small pieces, remove all
the cords and artery cases, and use only the lean portions. Place
the chopped heart in a saucepan, add the water and bay-leaf, a
dusting of salt and pepper, and simmer gently for ten minutes.
Rub the flour and butter or other fat together, add them, with
sliced lemon, stir thoroughly for five minutes, and serve at
once.

MEAT 269

STEWED BEEF HEART

1 beef heart 1 tablespoon chopped celery-

Bread Stuffing No. 3, omit- Flour or corn-starch

ting sage

Wash the heart well, remove the large veins and arteries from
the inside and take out every particle of blood. Add the celery
to the stuffing and stuff the cavity of the heart. Tie the heart
about with twine, and wrap it in a cloth, sewing the ends to-
gether to keep the stuffing in. Place in a small stewpan with
the point of the heart down, and nearly cover with water boil-
ing hot. Place the lid on the stew-pan and simmer gently for
three hours. When done, there should be about one pint of
water in the pan. Remove the cloth and place the heart on a
platter. Thicken the liquor in the pan with flour or corn-
starch mixed with a little cold water, and season with salt and
pepper. Pour t;he gravy over and around the heart.

SMOKED BEEF TONGUE

1 smoked beef tongue 10 chopped, cooked mush-

1 cup Spanish sauce rooms

Scrub the tongue. Soak it in cold water over night, then
place it in enough fresh cold water to cover it, and simmer for
five hours. Drain, lay in cold water for two or three minutes,
remove the skin, trimming the thick end of the tongue neatly,
and again place it in hot water for a few minutes. Drain and
lay on the serving-dish, and pour over it sauce piquante or
Spanish sauce, to which the mushrooms have been added just
before serving.

VIRGINIA BEEF TONGUE

1 beef tongue, fresh % cup butter or other fat

1 cup brown sugar 1 tablespoon whole cloves

1 cup stewed cranberries }4 lemon

Scrub the tongue and simmer it until tender, in water to
cover. Remove the skin and trim the root end. Take one cup
of the liquor in which the tongue was cooked and add the
brown sugar, stewed cranberries, butter or other fat, cloves,
and lemon, sliced. Simmer the tongue in this mixture for one-

270

fourth hour. Place on a dish with the sauce, garnish with slices
of lemon and sprigs of p?.rsley and serve.
Tongue may be jellied and served cold.

BRAIN RISSOLES

2 cups brains or 2 tablespoons chopped green
1 whole brain pepper

Pie paste or short biscuit Yz cup thick white sauce

dough Y^ teaspoon salt

Put the brains into a bowl of cold water, with salt, for
thirty minutes. Cover with water and simmer fifteen minutes.
Remove fiber and outer membrane. Drain, chop or put
through the meat grinder, add seasoning and white sauce.
Form into small balls. Roll pie paste or short biscuit dough
quite thin. Place the balls on the paste equal distances apart.
Place another sheet of paste over all. Stamp out with round
cutter or cut them apart and press upper and lower crusts to-
gether. Bake in hot oven (450° F.) for fifteen minutes.
Brown in deep hot fat or oil (375°-390° F.) before serving.

STEWED KIDNEYS

3 cups veal or beef kidneys 2 tablespoons flour

2 bay-leaves 2 tablespoons butter or other

Yz lemon fat

Salt and pepper

Split the kidneys and cut out the hard, white substances and
fat from the center. Wash them well and soak for three or
four hours in cold water, changing the water as soon as it be-
comes cloudy. Then put the kidneys into a granite pan, add
enough cold water to cover them and heat slowly. When just
at the boiling-point, pour off the hot water and again just
cover them with cold water, once more heating slowly and again
changing the water when hot. Change the water in this way
three times, then simmer (twenty minutes for small kidneys;
forty minutes for a beef kidney.) Set away to cool. If the
stew is to be used for a breakfast dish, this preliminary cooking
must be done the day before. When ready to prepare, separate
all the cords and veins from the kidneys, leaving only the lean
part. Cut this into small pieces. Place the chopped kidneys

MEAT 271

in a granite pan, add the bay-leaves, two cups of water and
the lemon, sliced, and simmer for twenty minutes. When
ready to serve, remove the bay-leaves, add the flour rubbed
smooth in the butter or other fat, season with salt and pepper^
and when thickened to the consistency of cream, serve on a
hot dish.

BROILED KIDNEYS

6 lamb's or 4 calf's kidneys Butter

Cooking oil Lemon

Salt and pepper Parsley

Cut the kidneys into halves, remove the white tubes and fat
and cover with cold water for thirty minutes. Drain and dry
on a piece of cheese-cloth. Brush with, or dip into, cooking
oil. Broil slowly until brown on both sides. Remove from the
broiler and put in pan, sprinkle with salt, pepper and a little
melted butter. Cover the pan and set over a slow fire for a
few minutes. Serve garnished with slices of lemon and sprigs
of parsley.

SAUTEED KIDNEYS

Remove the skin from the kidneys, cut them into thin round
slices, and soak them in salted water for thirty minutes. Drain
and wipe. Saute until tender in butter or other fat. Serve with
brown sauce or tomato sauce.

If preferred, cut the kidneys in half after skinning, remove
the white tubes and fat and then slice the kidneys lengthwise.

TRIPE

Preparing Tripe — Tripe is usually sold in the city markets
already cleaned. If not so obtainable, wash well through
several boiling waters, then put it in cold water and let it soak
over night.

Stewed With Onions

2 pounds tripe Salt and pepper

2 onions 1 cup hot milk

Butter

Simmer the tripe and onions in salted water for three or four
hours. Drain. Chop the cooked onions very fine, place them
in hot milk, and season with salt, pepper and butter. Pour this
over the tripe and serve at once.

272

Stewed with Tomato Sauce

2 pounds tripe Salt and pepper

1 onion 1 tablespoon butter or other

2 cups tomatoes fat
2 tablespoons flour

Choose the honeycomb portions and the thick section of
tripe. Wash it carefully, cover with hot water, add the onion,
cut in halves, cover the stew-pan and simmer for thirty-five
minutes. The tripe will then be tender and soft, but long cook-
ing will make it tough and hard.

Place the tomatoes in a separate stew-pan, cook them for ten
minutes and strain through a sieve. Make a sauce of the to-
matoes, flour, seasoning and fat.

When the tripe is cooked, drain well, place on a hot plate and
cut into slender strips. Then drain again, pressing the tripe
gently between the back of a spoon and the plate to remove
as much water as possible. Place it in the tomato sauce and
serve as soon as the sauce is thoroughly heated through.

LIVER LOAF WITH PAN GRAVY

iy2 pounds beef liver 2 tablespoons flour

11^ cups boiling water 2 cups soft bread crumbs

2 slices salt pork, 1^ ^^^^ '^i^ick 2 eggs, slightly beaten

1 medium-sized onion Salt and pepper

% cup chopped parsley l^^ cups cold water

Wash liver quickly under running water, cover with boiling
water and let stand 10 minutes; drain. Grind with 2 slices
salt pork and an onion; add parsley, crumbs, eggs, 1 teaspoon
salt and 54 teaspoon pepper, and mix thoroughly. Press into
baking pan, 8x4x3 inches, and bake in moderate oven (350° F,)
about 1 hour, or until browned. Remove loaf to hot platter.
Stir flour into drippings ^nd brown; add water gradually and
cook five minutes, stirring until thickened; season to taste and
pour over loaf.

MEAT

273

LIVER PIQUANTE WITH VEGETABLES

2 pounds liver 1 cup sliced carrots

Fat salt pork 1/^ cup sliced onion

^2 pound lean salt pork 1 tablespoon chopped parsley

2 cups boiling water Bit of bay leaf

Small sprig of thyme

Buy liver in solid piece, wash thoroughly, dry and lard with
strips of fat pork (page 3). Cut lean salt pork in pieces and
try out slightly; add liver and brown on all sides. Add hot
water, vegetables and seasonings, cover and bake in moderate
oven (350° F.) until liver is tender, or about 1 hour for veal
liver and 2 hours for beef liver. Serve on hot platter surrounded
by vegetables. Approximate yield: 8 portions.

SAVORY LIVER

\y2 pounds beef liver, sliced 2 tablespoons flour

thin % teaspoon salt

1^ cup chopped onion Dash pepper

2 teaspoons chopped parsley 3 tablespoons vinegar

2 tablespoons butter 2]/^ cups bouillon

Saute onion and parsley in butter in frying pan until lightly
browned; stir in flour, seasonings and vinegar, and add bouillon
gradually, stirring and cooking until well mixed. Place liver
in gravy and cook, covered 1 5 minutes, turning once.

REINDEER

Government breeding of reindeer has brought the meat back
on the market in modern form. It is shipped frozen and may be
thawed at low temperature or put directly under the broiler or
in the oven, when additional time for cooking must be allowed.
It is very much like beef or veal, with less fat, and has a pleas-»
ant gamy flavor. The round is the desirable cut and steaks,
pot roast, oven roaet, chops and cutlets are prepared like beef
or veal except that they need larding more often.

POULTRY AND GAME

TJOULTRY includes all the domesticated birds that are used
-^ for food — chicken and fowl, turkeys, squabs and pigeons,
geese and ducks. Game includes wild birds — ducks, geese,
partridge, reed birds, quail, plover, etc., and animals suitable
for food which are pursued and taken in field or forest, as the
deer, moose and rabbit.

The flesh of game, except that of partridge and quail, is dark
in color and has a fine strong flavor. The flesh of wild birds,
except that of wild ducks and geese, contains less fat than the
flesh of poultry.

Seasons for Fresh Poultry and Game

Poultry in some form is available in the market at every
season. Chickens weighing about one and one-half pounds,
known as Spring chickens or broilers, begin to appear in the
market during January. The height of the season for broilers,
however, is May and June. The so-called milk-fed or early
Spring chickens appear in the market in July and are available
until August.

Roasting chickens begin to appear in September, and Phila-
delphia capons come into the market at about the same time.
Fowl are in the market now-a-days throughout the year.

The season for turkey and ducks is the same as for chickens.

Goose about twelve weeks old, known as green goose, is
available from May to September. Geese, also, may be found in
the market throughout the year.

Fresh quail and partridge are in the market from Oct. 15 to
Jan. 1. Cold-storage birds may be found much later. Grouse
is fresh in the Fall. The cold-storage birds are obtainable
throughout the year. Plover are in season from April to Sep-
tember.

Selecting Poultry and Game

There are a few general rules to be observed in the selection
of young tender poultry and game.

They should be plump in appearance, haVe smooth, soft legs
and feet and smooth, moist skin.

274

POULTRY AND GAME 275

The lower or rear end of the breast-bone should be flexible,
the skin should be easily broken when twisted between the
thumb and finger, and the joint of the wing should yield
readily when turned backward.

The eyes should be bright, the comb red, and there should
be an abundance of pin feathers.

Birds with a yellow skin are likely to be plump, those with
white skins are likely to be tender.

Bruised, dry or purplish skin is an indication of careless
dressing and of age. Hard, dry, scaly legs, hard breast-bone
and the presence of long hairs are all signs of an old and tough
bird.

Avoid birds with a full crop. Buy dry-picked poultry when-
ever possible. Scalding the bird before plucking it impairs the
flavor.

Poultry and game unless they are in cold storage, should not
be kept long uncooked. They should be drawn as soon as pur-
chased, and should be kept in a cool place.

Unless hen turkeys are young, small and plump, cock turkeys
are more satisfactory.

Geese should have an abundance of pin-feathers, soft feet
and pliable bills.

There is more meat in proportion to the amount of bone in
fowls weighing five to six pounds than there is in smaller birds.
Broilers should weigh one to two pounds.

To Clean and Dress Poultry

Cut off the head and remove the pin- feathers with a sharp,
pointed knife. Singe by holding the bird over a flame, turning
on all sides until all down and hair have been burnt off.

If the feet and tendons were not removed at the market, cut
through the skin around the lower joint or "drum-stick," one
and one-half inches below the joint that connects the foot with
the leg, but do not cut the tendons. Place the leg with this
cut at the edge of the table and break the bone by pressing
downward. Hold the bird in the left hand and with the right
pull off the foot, and with it the tendons. In an old bird, the
tendons must be removed one by one with a skewer or trussing
needle.

276

To Prepare Poultry for Cooking Whole

Make a small incision below the breast-bone. Insert the hand
and carefully loosen the internal organs, the entrails, the giz-
zard, the heart and the liver. Reserve the last three; these are
known as the giblets. Care should be taken not to break the
gall bladder, which is attached to the liver. The liquid content
of the gall bladder is very bitter, and makes the flesh unpleasant
to eat.

Remove and discard the lungs and the kidneys. Insert two
fingers under the skin close to the neck and remove the wind-
pipe and the crop. Pull back the skin of the neck and cut off
the neck close to the body, leaving enough of the neck skin
to fold down under the back if the bird is to be roasted. Re-
move the oil bag from the tail.

Clean the inside of the bird by running water through it and
wipe the outside with a damp cloth.

To Stuff Poultry or Game — ^Fill the opening at the neck
end with sufficient stuffing to make the bird look plump. Put
the remaining stuffing in the body. If the body is full, sew
up the opening; if not full, bring the skin together with a
skewer. Do not fill the cavity too full. Allowance must be
made for swelling of the stuffing especially when the stuffing
is made with cracker-crumbs.

To Truss Poultry or Game for Roasting — Clean, dress
and stuff. Tie a piece of twine to the end of the neck -skin and
pull the neck-skin over the back. Slip the ends of the wings
over the back and press the wings close to the body. Press the
thighs close to the body, draw the ends of the twine back on
each side and up over the thighs. Cross the twine between
the legs, and tie it down under the tail.

If the poultry or game has little fat it should be larded with
thin strips of salt pork or bacon laid across the breast. To pre-
vent the burning of the legs, wind them with strips of cloth
which have been dipped in melted fat.

To Dress Birds for Broiling, Frying, Etc.

For Broiling — Singe the bird, cut off the head and neck
close to the breast and the legs at the knee joints. Beginning
at the neck, make a cut through the back-bone for the entire

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POULTRY AND GAME 277

length of the bird. Lay the bird open and remove the contents.
Cut the tendons or break the joints. Cut out the rib-bones and
remove the breast-bone, to faciUtate carving.

To Make Fillets — Remove the skin from the breast and
with a sharp knife make an incision close to the breast-bone,
beginning at the end next the wish-bone and cutting through
the entire length. Following the bone closely, remove all the
meat, cutting it away from the wing joint. This fillet may
be separated into two parts, the upper or larger muscle making
the "large fillet" and the smaller *'fillet mignon."

To Cut Up a Fowl — Remove pin-feathers, singe the fowl,
cut off the head, tendons and oil-bag.

Cut off the legs at the thigh joint. Separate the first joint
or drumstick from the thigh.

Cut the wings from the body. Cut off the tips of the wings.

Separate the breast from the back by cutting clear down both
sides of the bird below the ribs.

Remove the heart, liver, gizzard, entrails and fat all together.
Remove windpipe and crop. Carefully remove the lungs and
kidneys from the back-bone.

Cut back and breast into two pieces each, cutting crosswise.
The back is sometimes further divided by cutting lengthwise.
The wish-bone may be removed by inserting a knife under the
tip and cutting downward, the knife following the bone.

To Clean Giblets

Cut the fat and membrane from the gizzard. Make a gash
in the thickest part, cutting to, but not through the inner lin-
ing. Remove the inner sac and throw it away. Carefully
separate the gall bladder from the liver and cut off any part of
the liver that has a greenish color. Remove arteries and veins
from the top of the heart and squeeze out the clot of blood.

Chickens
ROAST CHICKEN

1 roasting chicken Salt and pepper

Stufiing Flour

Fat

Wash, singe and draw the bird, rub it with salt and pepper
inside and out, and stuff with any desired stufiing. Bread

278

stuffing, chestnut stuffing and celery stuffing are particularly
good. Truss and tie the fowl. Brush skin with melted or soft-
ened fat. Turn breast side down and cover bird with a cloth
dipped in fat. Place in a moderate oven (325° to 350° F.). Cook
uncovered breast side down about one half the total time. Turn
breast side up. Place any strips of body fat removed in dressing
over breastbone. Bacon or salt pork strips may be used. Baste
with extra fat. The cloth may be removed toward the end of
the cooking if the bird is not well browned. Allow 30 minutes
per pound for small birds; 22 to 25 minutes per pound for
larger birds.

BROILED CHICKEN

Unless you are quite certain the chickens are tender, it is
wise to steam them before broiling. This may be done as fol-
lows: Set the dripping-pan in a moderate oven (3 50°-400°
F.) and nearly fill it with boiling water. Place two sticks across
the pan, extending from side to side, and upon them lay the
chicken. Invert a tin pan over it, shut the oven door and let
the chicken steam slowly for thirty minutes. This process
relaxes the muscles and makes the joints supple, besides preserv-
ing the juices that would be lost in parboiling.

Transfer the chicken from this vapor bath to a wire broiler,
turning the inside to the fire first. Broil until the chicken is
tender and brown, turning it frequently. If the chicken is
small, it will cook in twenty minutes or less. Do not have too
hot a fire. Lay the chicken on a warmed platter, spread it with
butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve.

PANNED CHICKEN

1 chicken Salt and pepper

y^ cup fat 1 tablespoon cracker or

Flour bread-crumbs

1 cup hot milk Onion-juice

Cress Chopped parsley or tarragon

Prepare a chicken as for broiling and slightly flatten it with a
rolling-pin. Place in pan, lay bits of fat upon it, and place it
in a moderate oven (350° F.) allowing 15 to 20 minutes per
pound. Bake uncovered. Baste with drippings every half
hour. When it is nearly done, remove from the oven, salt

POULTRY AND GAME 279

and pepper both sides, strew once more with bits of fat, dredge
with flour and return to the oven to brown slightly on both
sides, the under side first.

When the chicken is thoroughly done, place it on a hot
platter with the skin side uppermost, cover, and set it where
it will be kept warm. Pour hot milk into the pan and add
cracker or bread-crumbs. Season with salt and pepper, if neces-
sary, and add a few drops of onion-juice or a teaspoon of
chopped parsley or tarragon, as preferred. Stir the gravy
vigorously, let it boil one minute and turn it over the chicken.
Garnish with cress or parsley and serve.

CHICKEN, MARYLAND STYLE

2 chickens 1 cup milk or cream

Flour Yz cup butter or other mild
Salt and pepper fat

Bread-crumbs 2 eggs

Clean and disjoint young chickens, leaving the breasts whole.
Put the necks and giblets into cold water and simmer to obtain
a cup of stock for the gravy. Sprinkle each piece of chicken
with salt and pepper, dip in flour, beaten q^% and soft crumbs
and place in a greased pan. Bake in a hot oven (480° F.)
from thirty to forty minutes, basting frequently with one-
fourth cup of fat melted in one- fourth cup of hot water.

When the chicken is done, make a gravy from the fat left
in the pan, stirring in two tablespoons of flour, one cup of milk
or cream and the cup of stock made from the giblets. If you
like, add a few button mushrooms. Serve the chicken with the
gravy poured around it.

PLANKED CHICKEN

2 large broilers 1 teaspoon minced onion

^ cup fat Salt and pepper

1 teaspoon minced parsley 1 pint sauted mushrooms

1 teaspoon minced green 1 quart seasoned mashed

pepper potato

1 teaspoon lemon-juice Garnishes for plank

Make a savory fat by rubbing the minced parsley, green
pepper and onion into the fat. Flavor with lemon-juice, salt
and pepper. Split the broilers, sprinkle with salt and pepper

28o

and put in a pan. Pour over them a little oil or melted fat and
bake them (400° F.) until nearly done (about twenty min-
utes).

Prepare a plank of proper size, oil it, garnish with a border
of potatoes forced through pastry-bag and tube, place the
chicken in the center of the plank, arrange around it sauted
mushrooms and spread over the chicken the savory fat. Place
the plank in a very hot oven (500° F.) to brown the potato
border and to give the chicken the final cooking. Planked
dishes are invariably served on the plank. They may be
elaborately garnished with stuffed tomatoes, green peppers and
fancifully cut vegetables.

FRIED CHICKEN

No. 1 — Southern Style

2 smaH chickens Flour

Salt and pepper Yi cup fat

Cut each chicken into four or six pieces, dip each piece
quickly in cold water, then sprinkle with salt and pepper, and
roll in plenty of flour. Saute the chicken in a little fat until
each piece is brown on both sides, and admits a fork easily. Drain
the pieces well and arrange on a warm platter, setting the dish
in a hot place to keep the meat from cooling while the gravy
is being made, as on page 279.

No. 2—

Dip the chicken into fritter batter and fry in deep fat
(375°-390° F.) until brown. Transfer to a casserole or baking
dish and bake in a moderate oven (250° F.-3 50° F.) for 30-60
minutes. If the chicken is not young, parboiling before cutting
will shorten the baking time.

SMOTHERED CHICKEN

2 small chickens or 1 large one 2 or more tablespoons fat

Salt and pepper Flour

This is one of the most delicious ways of cooking chicken.
Take off the neck and split the chicken down the back, wiping
it with a damp towel. Season inside and out with salt and
pepper, and dredge on all sides with flour. Lay the chicken,

POULTRY AND GAME 281

with the inside down, in a small baking-tin, and add a very-
little water. The pan should be very little larger than the
chickens, otherwise the gravy will be too quickly evaporated.
Set into a rather slow oven (300°-350° F.) and cook for one
hour in a covered baking-pan or, if baked without a cover,
baste every ten minutes after the first twenty minutes.

Should the chicken be decidedly lacking in fat, add fat as
needed. When done, place the chicken on a hot platter, add
enough water to make two cups gravy and thicken with two
tablespoons flour. Should the chicken be quite fat, remove all
but two tablespoons of the oil from the pan before making the
gravy. Season with salt and pepper, pour it over the chicken
and serve at once.

BOILED CHICKEN

In Winter there is no better way to prepare chickens than
to simmer them whole and pour over them oyster or parsley
sauce. The chicken should be well secured in a wet cloth that
has been generously sprinkled with flour, then plunged into
boiling water and simmered (not boiled) gently until the
chicken is done. Allow twenty to thirty minutes to each pound
of chicken. A large, tough chicken may be made very palatable
by preparing it in this way.

STEAMED CHICKEN OR FOWL

1 fowl (about 5 pounds) Salt and pepper

1 onion Flour

1 bay-leaf

A chicken is more tender than a fowl and is to be preferred
for light cooking, but a fat fowl a year or two old has a richer
and finer flavor, and if steamed properly, will be perfectly
tender. Singe and wash the fowl, draw and dress it as carefully
as for roasting and wipe it dry inside and out. Rub it inside
and out with salt and pepper, place an onion and a bay-leaf
inside and tie the fowl into shape as for roasting.

Then flour a cloth and wrap it about the fowl. Lay the
chicken, back downward, in a steamer and allow it to steam
continuously for three to four hours, according to its age and
size. If properly steamed it will be as good as a roasted chicken.
Serve with celery, oyster or parsley sauce. Steamed chicken
may subsequently be browned in the oven if desired.

282

STEAMED WHOLE SPRING CHICKEN

1 chicken Salt and pepper

1 cup oysters Yz cup cream or milk

1 tablespoon fat 3 hard-cooked eggs

1 tablespoon flour Minced herbs

Prepare a full-grown Spring chicken as for roasting, season
inside and out with salt and pepper, stuff with whole, raw
oysters and place it in a steamer with a close-fitting cover, and
steam until the chicken is done, then place the chicken on a
warm dish and make a gravy as follows: Put the fat into a
saucepan with the minced herbs and flour and stir until the
mixture bubbles; add the liquor in the kettle below the steamer,
the cream or milk, and cook, stirring constantly, until the mix-
ture boils. Add the eggs, chopped fine, let the whole boil, pour
it over the chicken and serve at once.

CHICKEN POT-PIE

1 chicken 1 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons flour 1 cup milk

Salt and pepper

Clean, singe and cut up the chicken, place it in a pot and
nearly cover with water. Cover the pot and simmer gently.
An old fowl will require at least three or four hours' slow cook-
ing, but a year-old chicken should be done in one and one-
half hours. Remove the cover during the last half-hour of
cooking, to reduce the gravy to about one and one-half pints
when done.

Three-fourths of an hour before time to serve, make Dump-
lings No. 2 (see Index). When the dumplings are ready to
serve, add salt and pepper to the chicken and make the gravy
by adding to the liquor in the kettle three tablespoons of flour
stirred to a paste in one cup of milk. Skim out the chicken,
lay it on a platter, place the dumplings on the top and pour
over them the gravy.'

PRESSED CHICKEN

1 chicken 1 tablespoon gelatin to each

Salt and pepper pint broth

Clean, singe and cut up a chicken. Place it in a kettle with
a little water, cover closely and simmer until the meat will fall

POULTRY AND GAME 283

from the bones. Lift the pieces from the kettle with a skimmer
and scrape all the meat from the bones, separating the white
meat from the dark and taking out the pieces of skin. Season
with salt and pepper.

Soften gelatin in two tablespoons of water for each tablespoon
of gelatin and add to the boiling chicken broth. Place the meat
in the dish it is to be pressed in, laying the white and dark in
alternate layers, and adding from time to time a little of the
broth to moisten all well. When all the meat is in the dish,^
pour over it enough of the broth to cover it; lay a plate on top
of it; place a heavy weight upon the plate and set away in a
cool place. This makes an attractive dish for luncheon, sliced
and garnished with parsley.

White FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN

1 chicken 1 egg-yolk

2 tablespoons fat Salt and pepper
2 cups chicken stock Herbs

2 tablespoons flour Salt pork

1 cup milk or cream Rice or dumplings

Singe, clean and cup up the chicken. Brown in a pan with
the fat. Cover with boiling water, add salt, pepper, herbs and
a few slices of salt pork. Simmer until tender (about an hour) ,
strain and thicken one pint of the liquor with the flour mixed
to a smooth paste with a little cold water; add the milk or
cream beaten with the yolk of the egg. Heat again until
slightly thickened, pour over the chicken and serve with rice
or dumplings (see Index for recipe).

Brown

1 chicken Salt and pepper

2 or 3 small slices salt pork 1 teaspoon onion-juice, if
2 tablespoons flour desired

1 pint boiling water

Cut in pieces as directed for white fricassee. Place salt pork
in a frying-pan, and when hot put in the chicken, leaving
plenty of room to turn the meat; cook until each piece is a
rich brown. Remove the chicken and keep it warm. Add the
flour to the fat in the pan, stir well and when it has cooked two
minutes, add the boifing water. When the gravy is smooth
and boiling, replace the chicken, season with salt and pepper.

284

cover the pan, and simmer gently until the chicken is tender,
then add a teaspoon of onion-juice, if desired, and serve at
once. The gravy will be thick enough, and if the pan has a
tight cover, it will not be diminished, even after long cooking.

CHICKEN PIE

1 chicken Salt and pepper

Pie paste Flour

Milk

Clean, singe and cut up chicken as for fricassee. Place in a
kettle and add enough hot water to cover. Put the cover on
the kettle, and simmer slowly until the chicken is tender, add-
ing a little more water if needed. Make a gravy of the stock,
using two tablespoons flour for each cup of stock. Use for the
crust puff paste, or a good pie paste, rolled a little thicker
than for fruit pies. Line the sides of a deep baking-dish with
crust; invert in the middle of the dish a small cup or ramekin;
put in part of the chicken and season with salt and pepper,
then add the rest of the chicken, and season the same way.

Put in the dish two cups or more of the gravy made from
broth in which the chicken was cooked and cover the top with
crust. The cup or ramekin will hold the crust up and will pre-
vent evaporation. Most chicken pie is too dry; therefore, use
a generous amount of the broth. Bake in a hot oven (450° F.)
until crust is done (one-half hour) . "When serving, after cut-
ting the first slice, carefully slip the knife under the ramekin
and release the gravy which is held there by suction. Additional
gravy should be served in a gravy-dish.

CURRY OF CHICKEN

1 chicken ( 1 ^ or 2 pounds) 2 tablespoons fat

1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon to 2 tablespoons

2 onions curry-powder

1 egg-yolk 1 tablespoon flour

Cut up the chicken as for fricassee, put in a saucepan with
sufficient water to cover it, and simmer until tender, keeping
the pan closely covered. Remove from the fire, take the chicken
out and pour the liquor into a bowl. Put the onions into the
saucepan with the fat and saute until brown, then skim them
out and put in the chicken ; fry for three or four minutes, then

POULTRY AND GAME 285

sprinkle over it the curry-powder. Next pour in the chicken
liquor, stew five minutes longer and stir in the flour mixed
until smooth with a little cold water. Stir the mixture until
it thickens; add the beaten yolk of egg, adding a little of the
hot mixture to the egg first. Serve with a border of hot boiled
rice.

SAVORY CHICKEN

% cup fat lYz cups strained tomatoes

1 tablespoon chopped onion Salt, pepper and paprika

1 chopped carrot 1 chicken

1 slice turnip Salt-pork fat

5/4 cup flour 1 cup button mushrooms

1 cup water 2 tablespoons chopped olives

Make a savory sauce by melting the fat and cooking in it
chopped onion, carrot and turnip cut in small pieces. Stir in
flour and add gradually boiling water and tomato, previously
stewed and strained. Season with salt, pepper and paprika.

Cut up a chicken, dredge with flour, and saute in salt-pork
fat. Remove from the pan, place in a saucepan and cover
with the savory sauce. Cook until the chicken is tender. At
the last moment, add the mushrooms and chopped olives. Ar-
range the pieces of chicken in the center of the platter and pour
the sauce around them, garnishing with triangles of toast and
stuffed olives.

SCALLOPED CHICKEN

2 cups cooked chicken meat 2 tablespoons flour

1 pint broth in which chicken Salt and pepper

was cooked Bread-crumbs

Fat 2 cups sliced, cooked potatoes

Cut the cooked chicken meat into dice. Thicken the broth
with a paste made of the flour and two tablespoons of fat and
season with salt and pepper. Fill a pudding-dish with alternate
layers of bread-crumbs, chicken and potatoes. Cover the top
with crumbs. Pour in the gravy and add a few bits of butter
or other fat and bake fifteen to thirty minutes in a moderate
oven (3 50°-400° R).

286

CREAMED CHICKEN

2 cups cooked chicken Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons fat 1 tablespoon parsley

2 tablespoons flour 1 egg-yolk

1 cup milk or cream

Make a white sauce of the fat, flour and milk. Season with
salt and pepper. Add the parsley and chicken and cook until
the sauce is thoroughly hot again. Beat the egg-yolk, adding
two tablespoons of milk, and pour into the mixture. Cook
two minutes, stirring constantly, and serve in a border of riced
potatoes or in croustades.

Creamed chicken may be varied in a number of ways: by
substituting mushrooms or chopped cooked eggs for part of
the chicken or by adding chopped pimientos and olives.

Capons

Capons are large, plump young roosters, especially fattened
for the table. They are prepared for cooking in the same way
as chickens. For stufl&ng, choose a delicate flavoring such as
oysters or chestnuts. Mushrooms or truffles are especially good
with capon.

Turkeys

ROAST TURKEY

Dress as directed for roast chicken and roast in an uncovered
roaster in a slow oven (300° F.) allowing 15 to 25 minutes per
pound, depending upon age and size of bird. The larger birds
require less time per pound than the small birds. Baste the bird
at half hour intervals. Serve with giblet gravy.

BRAISED TURKEY

1 turkey ^ cup onion

Stuffing Yz cup turnip

Yz pound salt pork 4 cups water or stock

Yz cup chopped celery Salt and pepper
Yz cup chopped carrots

This is a very satisfactory way of cooking an old turkey that
is unfit for roasting. StuflF the body and breast with any de-

POULTRY AND GAME 287

sired stuffing, and truss. Spread thin slices of salt pork over
the breast and legs, and cover the turkey with a strong sheet
of oiled paper, fastening the paper on by passing a string
around the body. In a double roasting-pan large enough to
hold the turkey, spread sliced salt pork and the chopped vege-
tables. Lay the turkey on this mixture, with the breast up,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover the pan tightly, and place
in a moderate oven (350°-400° F.). Allow twenty-five min-
utes for each pound.

At the end of thirty minutes, add water or stock. During
the last half -hour take the cover from the pan, remove the paper
and pork from the turkey. This permits the meat to brown
lightly. Serve with mushroom sauce, or with the gravy in the
pan, strained and thickened.

FILLETS OF TURKEY WITH RICE

Breast fillets Yz teaspoon onion- juice

Egg and crumbs Salt and pepper

1 cup white stock 2 teaspoons butter

1 cup rice 1 tablespoon grated cheese

6 tablespoons oil

Skin the breast of a plump turkey, and sKce. The slices
should be nearly half an inch thick, and as nearly uniform in
size as possible. Dip in beaten q^^, then in crumbs, again in the
Qg^, and once more in the crumbs. Set in the refrigerator. Put
the white stock into a saucepan; add rice, onion-juice and
one-half teaspoon salt^ and simmer slowly until the liquid is
absorbed.

When the rice is tender, add butter and grated cheese,^ and
season with salt and pepper. Cover and let it stand at the
side of the fire until the fillets are ready. Heat salad-oil or
cooking fat slowly in a frying-pan to 375°-390° F., and cook
the fillets to a nice brown. Mound the rice in the center of a
hot dish and arrange the fillets about it.

BROILED YOUNG TURKEY

Young turkeys may be broiled or panned, like chickens. A
young turkey is easily distinguished by its smooth, black legs
and white skin.

288

TURKEY CURRY

6 tablespoons fat 3 tablespoons flour

]/3 cup onion, finely chopped 1/^ teaspoon salt

1 large apple, peeled, diced 1 to ll/^ teaspoons curry
1 large can mushrooms or powder

1 pound fresh mushrooms 1 1/^ cups turkey stock and top
3 cups turkey, diced milk, or cream

Cook onion, apple, mushrooms, and turkey in the fat until
onion and apple begin to be transparent: 10 to 15 minutes. If
fresh mushrooms are used, saute several minutes before adding
to other ingredients. Remove from heat, add salt, flour, and
curry powder and stir thoroughly. Add liquid, and cook until
thickened throughout. Set over hot water, cover and cook 15
minutes longer to blend the flavors. Taste and add more
seasoning if desired. Serve with hot boiled rice. Little or no
salt is added in cooking rice.

Goose
ROAST GOOSE WITH POTATO STUFFING

1 goose (about 8 pounds) Salt and pepper

Potato stuffing Flour

Salt pork if goose is not fat

Select a goose that is about four months old. An old goose
is better braised than roasted. Singe the goose, wash it carefully
in hot water, and wipe it dry on the outside; then draw it and
clean it thoroughly inside. Flatten the breast-bone by striking
it with a rolling-pin. Partly fill the cavity with potato stuf-
fing, stitch up the openings and truss the goose. If it is not
fat, lay thin slices of pork upon the breast, but if the goose has
considerable fat, omit the pork. Bake in a hot oven (500° F.)
for forty-five minutes. Remove it from the oven, pour out
all the fat, sprinkle the bird all over with salt and pepper,
dredge with flour, and return it to the oven. Reduce the heat
but do not let it get below 3 50° F.

When the flour is a good brown, pour one cup of hot water
into the pan and baste the goose often, dredging it each time

POULTRY AND GAME 289

with a slight sifting of flour to absorb the fat. Allow twenty
minutes to the pound for a young goose and twenty-five for
one that is old. Remove the goose from the pan, add a cup
of hot water to the gravy and thicken it, if necessary, with
browned flour. Garnish the goose with parsley and serve with
giblet gravy.

Apple sauce is often served with roast goose.

Goslings may be roasted in the same way, allowing, however,
only fifteen minutes to the pound for cooking.

ROAST GOOSE WITH BAKED APPLE

1 eight-pound goose 1 teaspoon salt

2 cups bread-crumbs Pinch of pepper

1 chopped onion 6 to 8 apples

2 tablespoons fat 54 cup brown sugar
y^ teaspoon sage 3 sweet potatoes

Cook the giblets until tender, chop and add to stuffing made
by mixing bread-crumbs, onion, fat, sage, salt and pepper.
After cleaning and washing the goose thoroughly, stuff, and sew
the neck and back. Roast for fifteen minutes at 500° F., then
reduce the heat to 3 50° F. and cook about three hours. Wash
and core six to eight apples; sprinkle with brown sugar, stuff
with mashed and seasoned sweet potato; bake until tender and
serve hot with the goose.

DEVILED GOOSE

1 goose 1 teaspoon pepper

Potato stuffing 2 tablespoons made mustard

J4 cup vinegar 1 tablespoon salt

After cleaning the goose and wiping it well with a damp
cloth, plunge it into a kettle of boiling water, and simmer for
one hour. Take it from the kettle, drain well, and wipe it dry.
Partly fill the body and neck with potato stuffing, sew up and
truss, and roast in a moderately hot oven (3 50° -400° F.), al-
lowing fifteen to twenty minutes to the pound. Pour over it
a mixture of the vinegar, pepper, and made mustard, and baste
frequently. Serve with giblet gravy.

An old goose that can not be made eatable in any other way
may be cooked in this way, two hours instead of one hour
being allowed for the simmering.

290

Ducks
ROAST DUCK

Epicures prefer young ducks rare, and without stuffing.
Some people consider that ducks have too strong a flavor, and
to absorb this flavor lay cored and quartered apples inside the
body. These apples are removed before the duck is sent to the
table. Celery and onions also may be placed inside the duck to
season it and improve the flavor, two tablespoons of chopped
onion being used to every cup of chopped celery, which may
consist of the green stalks that are not desired for the table.
This stuffing is also removed from the bird before it is sent to
the table. Should filling be preferred, use potato stuffing, put-
ting it in very hot.

Truss the duck, sprinkle it with salt, pepper and flour, and
roast in a very hot oven (500° F.) fifteen to thirty minutes,
provided the duck is young and is desired rare.

Full-grown domestic ducks are roasted in a moderate oven
(350° F.) allowing 20 to 25 minutes per pound. Bake uncov-
ered. Baste every half hour with drippings in pan. Serve with
giblet gravy and applesauce or grape or currant jelly. Green
peas should also be served with roast duck.

BRAISED DUCKS

1 brace ducks Parsley

3 slices bacon Salt and pepper

1 carrot 1 small turnip, diced

1 onion stuck with cloves Oil or cooking fat

Thyme Flour

Prepare ducks as for roasting, put them into a large stew-
pan with the bacon, carrot, onion and a little thyme and
parsley; season with salt and pepper and cover with water.
Simmer over a low fire until the ducks are tender, then remove
them from the pan. Cook the turnip in the fat until brown,
then drain and cook in liquor in the stew-pan, until tender.
Strain the liquor, thicken with flour and pour the gravy thus
made over the ducks. Garnish with pieces of turnip.

POULTRY AND GAME 291

DUCK A LA CREOLE

2 cups cooked duck Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons fat Paprika

1 tablespoon flour lYz cups consomme or

2 tablespoons chopped ham bouillon
2 tablespoons onion 1 clove
Chopped celery %, teaspoon mace
Chopped pars-ley Chopped sweet pepper

Melt the fat and add the flour, then stir in the ham. Season
with salt, pepper, paprika, onion, celery, sweet pepper and
parsley. Stir for two minutes, add the consomme or bouillon,
the clove and mace. Simmer one hour. Strain this sauce and
stir in the cooked duck, cut into cubes. Cook just enough
longer to heat all thoroughly. Serve with diamonds of fried
hominy or mush.

Guinea Fowls

ROAST GUINEA FOWL

Roast the guinea fowl either with or without stuffing, keep-
ing it well basted and the breast covered with a slice of fat
bacon, which may be removed five minutes before serving.
Have the oven very hot (500° F.) for the first fifteen minutes;
then reduce to 3 50° F. Allow thirty-five to forty minutes for
a medium-sized bird. Serve with currant jelly and giblet sauce.

FRICASSEE OF GUINEA FOWL

1 guinea fowl 1 teaspoon salt

4 slices bacon ^ teaspoon pepper

2 tablespoons flour

A guinea fowl makes a delicious fricassee. Clean and cut
in pieces. Place bacon in pan and when it has fried long enough
to extract some of the fat, add the pieces of the fowl and brown
them well. Add the flour, stir until thoroughly mixed, and
then add two cups hot water, salt and pepper, and stir until
the gravy boils. Cover well and simmer until the meat is
tender, which is generally in one and one-half to two hours.
Serve with the gravy from the bottom of the pan, adding more
salt and pepper if needed.

292

Peafowl

These fowls are cooked in the same way as turkeys. They
should be larded with shreds of bacon, trussed and roasted about
one and one-fourth hours.

Pheasants, Partridges, Quail and Grouse

Game should not be kept too long; birds rarely should be
hung longer than one week. Hang in a cool dry room where
the air circulates freely. If birds are to be kept many days,
draw but do not pick them before hanging. Place a piece of
charcoal in the body and sift powdered charcoal into the
feathers. A distinction must be made between white meat
and dark meat in cooking game. Quail and partridges are
white meat and, like chicken, must be thoroughly cooked but
not dried. Ducks, pigeons or squabs, grouse (prairie chicken) ,
snipe, and woodcock are dark meat and are preferred by the
epicure cooked rare and served very hot.

The methods of cooking all these birds are substantially the
same, except as to the degree of rareness desired. They should
never be washed, but simply wiped with a damp towel, all shot
being carefully picked out of the flesh with a sharp-pointed
knife. Small birds are often skinned when the birds are
cleaned. There is a difference of opinion among epicures as to
the drawing of these birds ; sometimes they are cooked undrawn.
The English do not draw woodcock, regarding the entrails as
edible, and some American housekeepers copy them in this
respect.

BROILED BIRDS

Clean the birds and split them down the back. Sprinkle with
salt and pepper, dust with flour to keep in the juices and broil
in a wire broiler, laying the inside first to the fire. Allow about
ten minutes for quail, twenty-five to forty minutes for par-
tridges and pheasants. When done, lay them on a warm dish
and butter or oil them plentifully on both sides. During the
broiling, if the breasts are quite thick, cover the broiler with
a pan, and see that the fire is not too hot.

POULTRY AND GAME 293

PANNED BIRDS

Clean the birds and split them down the back. Dip them
quickly into hot water and sprinkle with salt, pepper and flour.
The water causes the seasoning to adhere more thickly to the
meat. Place the birds in a small baking-dish with the inside of
each upward; place a teaspoon of butter or other fat in each
bird, add a cup of water, and roast in a very hot oven (500° F.)
allowing fifteen to twenty minutes for quail and proportion-
ately longer for larger birds. After the first fifteen minutes re-
duce the heat to 3 50° F. Baste every five minutes after the first
fifteen. Thicken the gravy, add salt and pepper if necessary,
and pour over the birds.

ROASTED BIRDS

Clean, truss and stuff the birds. Roast in an uncovered
pan in a moderate oven (350° F.) until meat is tender and bird
is well browned. Baste every half hour with butter or other
fat and water. Thicken the gravy and pour it over the birds.
Serve with bread sauce.

LARDED GROUSE

Grouse are rather dry birds and need to be larded to be palat-
able. Clean and wipe with a damp towel. On each bird lay
thin slices of bacon, covering the bird entirely and keeping the
bacon in place with crossings of soft twine. Place in a roasting-
pan and pour over them boiling water, sufficient to use for bast-
ing the birds while cooking. Cook in a very hot oven (500° F.)
fifteen to twenty-five minutes, basting three times. Reduce
the heat after fifteen minutes. When done, remove the strips
of bacon, brush the birds with oil, melted butter or other fat,
dredge with flour and place in the oven again until a rich brown.
The liquor in the pan may be thickened, seasoned, and used as
a gravy. Arrange the birds on a platter and garnish with rings
of sauted green peppers and the strips of bacon used to cover
the birds while roasting.

294

ROAST QUAIL

6 quail Flour

6 large oysters Salt and pepper

Strips of bacon Butter or other fat

Dress, clean and truss the birds. Stuff each with one large
oyster. Lard breast and legs with strips of bacon. Bake as di-
rected for larded grouse, allowing fifteen to twenty minutes for
cooking.

GAME PIE

6 birds 2 tablespoons browned flour

Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons fat

^ cup minced parsley 2 cups diced potatoes

Yz chopped onion Rich paste for side and top

2 whole cloves crust

54 pound diced salt pork

Clean the birds thoroughly. Halve them, put them into one
quart of water and bring to boiling-point. Remove the scum,
add salt, pepper, parsley, onion, cloves and salt pork. Simmer
until tender, carefully keeping the birds covered with water.
When the birds are done, thicken the liquid with the browned
flour and let the gravy come to a boil. Add the fat, remove
from the fire and cool.

Put the paste around the sides of a greased pudding-dish, lay
In some of the birds, then some potatoes, and repeat until the
dish is full. Pour in the gravy, put on the top crust, slashed
in the center, and bake in a hot oven (450° F. to 425° F.) for
thirty-five to forty-five minutes until done.

Pigeons and Squabs

Pigeons need long, slow cooking to make them tender.
Squabs are tender and are usually broiled.

BROILED SQUAB

6 squabs Butter

Salt and pepper Toast

Split the birds down the back, flatten the breast, wipe inside
and out with a damp cloth. Put on a broiler, season with pepper
and salt, and when nicely browned, pour a generous amount
of melted butter over them. Serve on toast.

POULTRY AND GAME 295

PIGEON AND MUSHROOM STEW

3 pigeons 2 tablespoons mushfoom
1 tablespoon fat catchup

1 pint stock or gravy Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons cream Cayenne
54 cup mushrooms

Clean and cut pigeons into small portions and let them cook
a short time in the fat in a saucepan, being careful not to
brown them. Next add to the contents of the pan the stock
or gravy, the mushroom catchup, and salt, pepper and cayenne
to taste. Simmer an hour, or until tender, add the mushrooms,
simmer ten minutes more, and then stir in the cream. Arrange
the mushrooms around the pigeons on a hot platter.

POTTED PIGEONS

6 pigeons Chopped parsley

3 slices bacon Hot water or stock
Any simple stuffing J4 cup fat

1 diced carrot 54 cup flour

1 diced onion Buttered toast

Clean and dress pigeons, stuff, truss, and place them upright
in a stew-pan on the slices of bacon. Add the carrot, onion,
and a little parsley, and cover with boiling water or stock
Cover the pot closely and let simmer from two to three hours,
or until tender, adding boiling water or stock when necessary.
Make a sauce of the fat and flour and two cups of the stock
remaining in the pan.

Serve each pigeon on a thin piece of moistened toast, and pour
gravy over all.

PIGEON PIE

6 pigeons Flour

Bread stuffing Rich pie paste

Salt and pepper 3 hard-cooked eggs

Fat

StuflF each pigeon with bread stuffing. Loosen the joints with
a knife, but do not cut them through. Simmer the birds in
a stew-pan, with water enough to cover, until nearly tender,
then season with salt and pepper. Make a medium thick gravy
with flour, fat and liquor in which pigeons have cooked and

296

let it cool. Line the sides of a greased pudding-dish with rich
paste and cut the hard-cooked eggs in sHces. Put successive
layers of egg, pigeon and gravy into the dish until it is filled,
put on a cover of paste and bake (at 450° F.) for one-half
hour.

wad Ducks

Nearly all wild ducks are likely to have a fishy flavor, and
when dressed by an inexperienced cook are often unfit to eat.
This flavor may be much lessened by placing in each duck a
small peeled carrot, plunging the fowls in boiling water and
simmering them for ten minutes before roasting. The carrot
will absorb some of the unpleasant taste. An onion will have
somewhat the same effect, but unless a stuffing with onions is
used, the carrot is to be preferred. When there is an objection
to parboiling (as when the ducks are young) rub them lightly
with an onion cut in two and put three or four uncooked cran-
berries in each before cooking.

ROAST WILD DUCK

Clean, wiping inside and outside with a damp towel. Tuck
back the wings, and truss. Dust with salt, pepper and flour.
If not fat, cover the breast with two thin slices of salt pork.
Place duck in a baking-pan, and add one cup of water, and
two tablespoons of fat. Bake in a very hot oven (500° F.)
from fifteen to thirty minutes, according to rareness desired,
basting frequently. Reduce the heat after fifteen minutes.
Serve with slices of lemon or orange and a brown gravy or
with olive sauce. Currant jelly may also be served. Wild
ducks are served rare and are seldom stuffed when roasted.
An old saying is that a young wild duck to be well cooked
should only fly through a very hot oven.

CANVASBACK DUCK, DELMONICO STYLE

This bird is in season from the last of November until March.
As it feeds mainly on wild celery, it requires no spices in cook-
ing. Its flavor is best preserved by roasting quickly in a very

ii:

"^m^

POULTRY AND GAME 297

hot oven (500° F.) so that it will be brown on the outside
and underdone on the inside. Dress it in the usual way and
wipe with a wet towel. Truss its head under the wing, place in
a dripping-pan and roast one-half hour, or twenty minutes if
liked underdone, basting often. Reduce the heat after fifteen
minutes. Season with salt and pepper and pour over it the
gravy in the baking-dish.

MALLARD WILD DUCK

These ducks, in season during the Fall and Winter, are very
dry when roasted. They are good if stuffed with bread stuffing-,
then well sewed up, tied in shape and placed in a large kettle
with a couple of slices of onion, a little thyme, and a small
quantity of water and cooked slowly for one hour. Turn the
bird frequently during the cooking; replenish the water if
necessary, but use only enough to keep the ducks from burn-
ing. Make a gravy from the juices in the kettle by adding one
cup of water and thickening with flour. Pour this gravy over
the ducks when served. Dressed in this way all parts are
equally good.

Venison

Venison is prepared and cooked in the same way as mutton.
The roasting pieces are the saddle and the leg. It should be
served underdone, allowing ten to twelve minutes to the pound,
for cooking, and served with tart jelly and green salad.

ROAST LEG OF VENISON

Leg of venison % cup fat

Fat salt pork Flour

Salt and pepper

Wipe carefully, and draw off the dry skin. Lard the lean
side of the leg with strips of the pork, then soften the fat, rub
it over the meat, and dredge with salt, pepper and flour. Lay
the leg on the rack in a baking-pan, sprinkle the bottom of the
pan with flour, place it in a very hot oven (500° F.) and
watch carefully until the flour in the pan is browned, which
should be in £Lve minutes. Add boiling water to cover the bot-
tom of the pan Baste the venison v/ell every fifteen minutes,

298

until the meat is done, renewing the water in the pan as often
as necessary. Reduce the heat after fifteen minutes. If a double
roasting-pan is used, basting is not necessary.

Most tastes require at least an hour and three-quarters for
cooking a ten-pound roast; but if the meat is liked very rare,
allow only an hour and a quarter. Serve with a gravy made
from the juices in the bottom of the pan. Always serve a tart
jelly like currant or wild grape or plum jelly with venison.

BROILED VENISON STEAK

Venison steak Currant jelly

Salt and paprika Possibly salad oil and

Butter lemon-juice

This requires about three minutes more time for broiling
than beefsteak. If strong, marinate in salad oil and lemon-
juice for two hours before cooking. Drain without wiping,
and broil over clear, hot coals, turning often to avoid scorch-
ing. Serve on a very hot platter, sprinkle with salt and paprika
and spread both sides with a mixture of butter and currant
jelly, allowing half as much jelly as butter.

FRIED VENISON STEAK

Venison steak Rolled crackers

Salt and pepper Yz cup fat

Flour 1 tablespoon currant jelly

Rub the steak with a mixture of salt and pepper, dip in wheat
flour or cracker meal and cook a rich brown on both sides in
one-half cup of hot fat. Place on a dish and cover to keep
warm. Dredge two teaspoons of flour into the fat in the pan
and stir until brown (but not burned), add a cup of boiling
water with one tablespoon of currant jelly dissolved in it, stir
a few minutes, strain the gravy, pour it over the meat and
serve.

Rabbits, Hares and Squirrels

Choose rabbits with soft ears and paws — stiffness is a sign of
age. Also, be sure that they are fresh and free from any un-
pleasant odor. Neither hares nor rabbits should be drawn be-
fore hanging, as they may become musty. In Winter, select a
dry place for hanging, and they may remain for some time.

POULTRY AND GAME 299

Dressing and Trussing

To skin and dress a rabbit, hare or squirrel, cut off the fore
feet at the first joint, cut the skin around the first joint of the
hind leg, loosen it and then with a sharp knife slit the skin on
the under side of the leg at the tail. Loosen the skin and turn
it back until it is removed from the hind legs. Tie the hind
legs together and hang the rabbit to a hook by this fastening.
Draw the skin over the head, slipping out the fore legs when
they are reached. Cut off the head and thus remove the entire
skin. Wipe with a damp cloth. Remove the entrails, saving
heart and liver, and wipe carefully inside. If it requires wash-
ing inside, use water acidified with vinegar.

Before cooking, soak in tepid water for a time. If blood has
settled in any part, cut with the point of a knife where it is
black and soak in warm water; this will draw out the blood.

Skewer firmly between the shoulders, draw the legs close
to the body and fasten with skewers.

ROAST HARE OR RABBIT

Hare or rabbit Salt and pepper

Forcemeat or stuffing Beef -drippings or other fat

Wipe the hare or rabbit dry, fill it with good forcemeat or
stuffing, sew up and firmly truss it. Season well with salt and
pepper and roast. Baste well with beef-drippings, butter
or other fat. A thin piece of beef-suet skin may be tied over
the back for the first three-quarters of an hour and then re-
moved. One and three-quarters hours is the full time for roast-
ing a medium-sized hare at 500° F. for the first fifteen minutes
and 3 50° F. for the rest of the time. Serve with brown gravy
and currant jelly.

BROILED HARE OR RABBIT

Hare or rabbit Butter

Salt and pepper

Skin and clean the rabbit or hare, wipe dry, split down the
back, and pound flat; then wrap in oiled paper. Any tough
white paper may be oiled. Place on a greased gridiron and
broil over a clear, brisk fire, turning often. Remove the paper

300

and serve on a hot platter, seasoned with plenty of salt, pepper
and butter, turning over and over so it will take up the fat. j
The oiled paper is not essential but results in a juicier product. \

FRIED HARE OR RABBIT

Hare or rabbit Flour

Egg Milk or cream

Bread-crumbs Salt and pepper

Dress as directed and put into boiling water. Boil ten min-
utes and drain. When cold, cut into joints, dip into beaten
egg, then in bread-crumbs and season with salt and pepper.
Saute in any good fat over a moderate fire. Thicken the gravy
with the flour and pour in milk or cream, boil up once and
pour over the rabbit. Garnish with sliced lemon.

HARE OR RABBIT SALMI

1 hare or rabbit 2 cups water

1 slice onion 1 teaspoon salt

1 stalk celery 1 tablespoon "Worcestershire

1 bay- leaf sauce

2 tablespoons oil 1 tablespoon capers
2 tablespoons fat 12 stoned olives

2 tablespoons flour Chopped parsley

Clean and dress as directed and place in a baking-pan. Add
onion, celery cut fine, and bay-leaf, brush with oil, then bake at
450° F. for thirty minutes. Lift the meat from the pan, add
the fat and the flour and stir until a rich brown. Add hot
water, stir well, and when smooth, add salt, Worcestershire
sauce, capers and olives. Lay the meat again in the pan, cover
closely and bake at 3 50° F. for thirty minutes. Dish the game,
strain the sauce over the meat, arrange the olives as a garnish,
sprinkle the whole with finely chopped parsley and serve.

HARE OR RABBIT PIE

Dress as directed and divide into pieces suitable for serving,
cutting the back into three parts. Immerse in salted water for
one-half hour, wipe dry, and then rub with lemon- juice, salt
and pepper. If the rabbit is very plump, gash the thickest part
several times, allowing the seasoning to penetrate. Follow di-
rections given for game pie.

POULTRY AND GAME 301

HARE OR RABBIT EN CASSEROLE

Hare or rabbit 1 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons fat % teaspoon pepper

4 tablespoons flour Garlic, if liked

Rub the frying-pan with garlic, if it is not objectionable.
Dress and cut up the rabbit and cook in the fat in a frying-
pan until brown. Remove the meat from the pan, stir the
flour into the fat, add two cups hot water, salt and pepper, and
let it come to a boil, stirring it constantly. Place the meat in
a baking-dish, pour the gravy over it, cover closely and bake in
the oven or fireless cooker (350° F. ) until tender.

If the garlic is not used, a teaspoon of currant jelly may be
added to the gravy before serving.

ROAST SQUIRRELS

Squirrels Pepper and salt

Salad oil Onion-juice

Lemon-juice or tarragon Oil

vinegar Brown stock

1 cup bread-crumbs Worcestershire sauce

Cream Paprika
1 cup button mushrooms

Clean the squirrels thoroughly, wash in several waters and
cover with salad oil mixed with lemon -juice or tarragon vine-
gar. Let stand for an hour on a platter. Soak a cup of bread-
crumbs in just enough cream to moisten them, add a cup of but-
ton mushrooms cut in dice, pepper, salt and onion-juice. Stuff
each squirrel with this mixture, sew and truss as you would a
fowl. Rub with oil, place in a dripping-dish, and partly cover
with brown stock diluted with a cup of boiling water. When
the squirrels are well roasted, make a gravy out of the liquor
in the pan, by adding a teaspoon of "Worcestershire sauce, and
paprika, salt and lemon-juice to taste.

302

BRUNSWICK STEW

2 squirrels 6 potatoes

1 tablespoon salt 1 teaspoon pepper

1 minced onion 2 teaspoons sugar

1 pint Lima beans 1 quart sliced tomatoes

6 ears corn y^ pound butter

Yz pound salt pork

This dish is named for a county in Virginia and is a favorite
dish in that section of the country. It is served in soup-plates.

Cut the squirrels in pieces, as for fricassee. Add the salt to
four quarts of water and when boiling add the onion, beans,
corn, pork, potato, pepper and the squirrels. Cover closely and
simmer for two hours, then add the sugar and tomato, and sim-
mer one hour more. Ten minutes before removing the stew
from the fire, add the butter, cut into pieces the size of a wal-
nut and rolled in flour. Boil up, adding salt and pepper if
needed, and turn into a tureen.

OPOSSUM ROAST

Opossum is very fat with a peculiarly flavored meat. To
dress, immerse in very hot water (not boiling) for 1 minute.
Remove and use a dull knife to scrape off hair so that skin is
not cut. Slit from bottom of throat to hind legs and remove
entrails. Remove head and tail if desired. Wash thoroughly
inside and out with hot water. Cover with cold water to which
has been added 1 cup salt. Allow to stand overnight; in the
morning drain off the salted water and rinse with clear, boil-
ing water.

Make stuflSng as follows: Brown 1 large, fine-chopped onion
with 1 tablespoon butter. Add chopped opossum liver and cook
until tender. Add 1 cup bread crumbs, a little chopped red
pepper, a hard-cooked egg, finely chopped, dash Worcestershire
sauce, salt and water to moisten. Stuff opossum with mixture,
fastening the opening with skewers or by sewing. With 2 table-
spoons water roast in moderate oven (350° F.) until meat is
tender and richly browned. Baste constantly with the opossum's
own fat. Remove skewers or stitches, serve on heated platter.
Skim fat from gravy and serve with baked yams or sweet
potatoes.

STUFFINGS FOR FISH, MEAT.
POULTRY AND GAME

QTUFFING does not necessarily have to be baked in the fowl
^ or meat. If the bird is small or if there is some stuffing left
over, it may be baked or steamed in a well-greased ring mold,
loaf pan or individual molds. Fill center of ring with vegetables.
Croquettes of stuffing, made by the usual method, are served in
a circle around the bird.

BREAD STUFFING
No. 1.

114 cups bread-crumbs y^ teaspoon pepper

y^ cup butter or other fat 1 egg

1 teaspoon salt

Moisten the bread-crumbs with the egg slightly beaten and
the melted fat. Season and mix well. This makes a rich, moist
dressing.

No. 2.

2 to 3 tablespoons melted fat 1 to 2 tablespoons milk or
1 tablespoon chopped onion stock

1 cup dry bread-crumbs Yz teaspoon each sage, chopped

1 teaspoon salt celery, parsley

54 teaspoon pepper

Melt the fat in the frying-pan; add the onion, and saute
until tender. Add the bread-crumbs and seasonings and mix
well. Then add the milk or stock. This makes a loose, light
stuffing much preferred by many to the soft moist or compact
type. It can be varied by leaving out the onion or the sage,
by adding chopped celery or by adding two tablespoons of
seeded raisins.

303

304

No. 3.

Yz cup milk 54 teaspoon pepper

2 cups grated bread-crumbs J4 teaspoon thyme

1 Yz tablespoons melted fat Yz teaspoon powdered sage

1 t^'g Y2 teaspoon chopped onion

Yz teaspoon salt J4 teaspoon summer savory

Pour the milk on the crumbs and let stand about one hour,
then add the seasonings, the fat, and the t^g slightly beaten.

CRACKER CRUMB STUFFING

1 cup cracker-crumbs % teaspoon pepper

2 tablespoons butter or other Ya teaspoon salt

fat Ya teaspoon poultry seasoning

Y4 cup boiling water

Melt the fat and mix with the crumbs. Add the water, and
then the seasonings. When this stuffing is used, a greater allow-
ance than usual must be made for swelling.

POTATO STUFFING

2 cups hot mashed potato 1 teaspoon sage

1 cup bread-crumbs 4 tablespoons melted butter or
Yz teaspoon pepper other fat

Yz tablespoon salt 2 tablespoons onion-juice

Mix the ingredients in the order given.

CELERY STUFFING

2 cups chopped celery 1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons fat Y2 teaspoon pepper

2 cups stale bread-crumbs

Chop the celery fine. Melt the fat, add the crumbs and mix
well. Add the celery, salt and pepper.

OYSTER STUFFING

2 cups oysters 2 cups dry bread-crumbs

1 teaspoon salt Ya cup fat

Ya teaspoon pepper

Mix the oysters well with the bread-crumbs and seasoning,
and add the melted fat.

STUFFINGS FOR FISH AND MEAT 305

PINEAPPLE-NUT STUFFING

4 cups stale bread, I/2 ^^^^ 1 teaspoon paprika

cubes 1 pimiento

% cup celery, finely chopped Dash cayenne

% cup pineapple, small ll/^ teaspoons salt

pieces % ^^P butter

1/2 cup walnuts, chopped fine 2 eggs

Combine bread, celery, walnuts, pineapple, pimiento, and
seasoning. Melt butter, remove from heat, stir in unbeaten
eggs, add to bread mixture. Toss lightly. Use as stuffing for
turkey, chicken, duck, veal roll, lamb chops or pork chops.
Substitute crisp bacon cut in small pieces for nuts, reduce salt
one-third and add grated onion, or substitute red or green bell
pepper for pimiento.

SAUSAGE STUFFING

Yz pound sausage-meat 1 tablespoon onion-juice

2 cups dried bread-crumbs 1 tablespoon minced parsley

Salt and pepper

Mix sausage and crumbs, then add seasonings.

MUSHROOM STUFFING

3 cups stale bread-crumbs 2 teaspoons salt

6 tablespoons butter or other Yz teaspoon powdered thyme

fat 1 teaspoon minced parsley
Yz cup chopped mushrooms

Mix ingredients in the order given.

RICE STUFFING

1 cup milk 4 cups cold boiled rice

1 cup soft bread-crumbs Y2 pound sausage

1 chopped onion Sage

1 tablespoon butter or other Parsley

fat Sweet herbs
Salt and pepper

Pour the milk over the crumbs. Cook the onion in the fat
until brown, then add the rice, the soaked crumbs, the sausage,
and seasonings to taste.

3o6

CHESTNUT STUFFING

No. 1.

1 quart chestnuts 1 tablespoon salt

3 tablespoons butter 54 teaspoon pepper

Shell and blanch chestnuts and boil one-half hour in water
enough to cover them, then drain. Do not chop or mash. them.
Add to them the butter, salt and pepper.

No. 2.

1 quart chestnuts 2 tablespoons cream
5^ cup bread-crumbs Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons butter or other Onion-juice, if desired
fat

Shell and blanch the chestnuts and cook in boiling water
until tender. While they are still hot, rub them through a
coarse sieve or colander. Add other ingredients in order given.

RAISIN-NUT STUFFING

2 cups stale bread crumbs 1^ cup broken walnut meats

y^ cup butter, melted 1 teaspoon salt

1/^ cup chopped seeded Yg teaspoon pepper

raisins 1/^ teaspoon sage

Mix ingredients together lightly with fork. Yield: 2% cups
stuflSng.

WILD RICE AND MUSHROOM STUFFING

y^ cup chopped onion ^ pound sausage meat

y^ cup butter 3 cups boiled wild rice

1 cup chopped mushrooms 1 teaspoon salt

Saute onion in 2 tablespoons butter 5 minutes, or until lightly
browned, and remove from pan; add remaining 2 tablespoons
butter and mushrooms, and cook 5 minutes, then remove from
pan. Fry sausage meat until lightly browned, stirring constantly;
remove from heat and stir in onion and mushrooms; add wild
rice and salt, mixing lightly. This makes a light goose stuffing.
Yields 5 cups stuffing or enough for 1 (10 lb.) goose.

SAUCES FOR FISH, MEAT,

POULTRY, GAME, AND

VEGETABLES

SAUCES add variety to the diet, make foods more attractive
to the eye and to the palate, and thus stimulate appetite,
aid digestion and improve nutrition.

WHITE AND BROWN SAUCES

Methods of combining flour or corn-starch with liquids are
given in the front of the book. (See Index.) The simplest
method of thickening sauces is by means of a roux. Equal parts
of fat and flour make the best roux. If much more fat than
flour is used, the fat rises to the top of the mixture. If less fat
than flour is used, the paste may burn. Therefore, if more fat
than flour is required in the sauce, it should be beaten in in small
pieces after the liquid is added and just before the sauce is
served; if less fat than flour is required, it is better not to make
it into a roux but to use another method of thickening the
sauce.

All sauces thickened with corn-starch should be cooked for at
least fifteen minutes. Standing over hot water in a double
boiler for an hour or longer improves the flavor. Sauces
thickened with flour are better if cooked for at least five minutes
after thickening. The seasonings should be added just before
the sauce is served.

To Make a Roux

For a White Sauce — The American method of making a
roux for white sauce is to melt the fat, add the flour and cook
only until the, mixture bubbles before adding the liquid. This
saves time, but at the expense of the flavor of the sauce. The
French method is to melt the fat, add the flour and cook, with
constant stirring, for £.Ye minutes, before; adding any liquid.
This removes the raw taste of the flour.

For a Brown Sauce — Melt the fat and allow it to brown

307

before adding flour, then stir in the flour and stir constantly,
until the flour is brown. The color depends on this browning,
but care must be taken not to scorch This long preliminary
cooking is the secret of a successful brown sauce. Tomato juice
or sauce may be used as liquid.

STANDARD RECIPE FOR WHITE SAUCE

Thin White Sauce.

For cream soups

1 tablespoon butter or other 1 cup milk
fat % teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon flour 1/^ teaspoon pepper

Medium White Sauce.

For gravies, sauces, creamed and scalloped dishes

2 tablespoons butter or other 1 cup milk

fat 14 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons flour y^ teaspoon pepper

Thick White Sauce.

For cutlets, croquettes and souffles

4 tablespoons butter or other 1 cup milk

fat y^ teaspoon salt

4 tablespoons flour I/3 teaspoon pepper

Use method 1 or 2 for making these sauces.

Method 1 — Melt butter, blend in flour until smooth. Add
milk gradually, stirring constantly until boiling point is reached.
Reduce heat and cook for 3 minutes longer; add seasonings and
blend. Place over hot water to keep hot and cover tightly to
prevent film from forming.

Method 2 — Heat milk. Blend butter or other fat and flour
together and add to hot milk, stirring constantly until mixture
thickens. Cook for 3 minutes longer, add seasonings and blend.

Method 3 — When less butter than flour is used, heat % of
the milk; mix remaining milk with flour to make a smooth
paste; stir into hot milk, heat to boiling and cook until thickened,
stirring constantly. Add butter or other fat and seasonings and
cook for 3 minutes.

SAUCES FOR FISH, MEAT AND VEGETABLES 309

VARIATIONS OF WHITE SAUCE

Use 1 cup mediura white sauce as the basis for each sauce.

Caper Sauce — Add 2 to 4 tablespoons chopped capers.

Celery Sauce — Add Yi cup chopped cooked celery.

Cheese Sauce — Add 2 to 4 ounces grated cheese. Set over
hot water and stir until the cheese is blended with sauce. Season
to taste with mustard and paprika.

Cream Gravy — Use 2 tablespoons meat drippings for butter
in white sauce recipe.

Cream Sauce — Use cream instead of milk in white sauce.

Egg Sauce, No. 1 — Add 1 hard-cooked q^^, chopped.

No. 2 — Beat an uncooked t^^, dilute with 1 tablespoon of
hot thin white sauce, then beat this into the remainder of a cup
of sauce. If the egg white is beaten separately, the sauce will be
foamy.

Lobster Sauce — Add }^ cup finely flaked cooked lobster.

Mock LIollandaise Sauce — Pour sauce over 2 slightly
beaten q^^ yolks, 2 tablespoons each of butter and lemon juice,
beat thoroughly and serve immediately.

Mushroom Sauce — Add /4 to J/^ cup chopped or sliced
cooked mushrooms to sauce.

Olive Sauce — Add J4 cup chopped ripe or stuffed olives.

Oyster Sauce — Heat 1 pint small oysters in their own
liquor to boiling point. Remove from heat after they have
cooked y2 minute and combine with sauce. Season to taste.

Parsley Sauce — Add 2 to 4 tablespoons chopped parsley.

PiMiENTO Sauce — Add 2 tablespoons minced onion and
6 tablespoons minced pimiento. Onion may be browned in fat
when making white sauce, if desired.

Shrimp Sauce — Add Yz cup chopped cooked shrimp.

SouBiSE Sauce — Rub 4 boiled onions and 2 sprigs parsley
through a coarse sieve. Combine with sauce.

Tomato Cream Sauce — Cook 1 cup fresh or canned toma-
toes, 1 stalk celery, 1 slice onion, Yz teaspoon salt and a few
grains cayenne together for 20 minutes. Rub through a sieve.
Add gradually, stirring constantly, to white sauce.

Veloute Sauce — Use 1 cup well-seasoned white stock for
milk in thin or medium white sauce.

Yellow Sauce — Add hot sauce to 1 or 2 slightly beaten Q^g
yolks and beat thoroughly.

310 ______

BECHAMEL SAUCE

No. 1.

Use one-half cup of meat stock instead of half of the milk
in medium or thin white sauce. If an acid flavor is desired, add
one teaspoon of lemon juice to each cup of sauce.

No. 2.

1 small onion ]/4 cup chopped lean raw ham

2 tablespoons fat 4 tablespoons flour
1 pint milk

Slice the onion, place the fat in a saucepan and slightly brown
the onion and ham in it. Add the flour and, when well mixed,
the milk. Stir until it boils, then cook over hot water for ten
minutes or longer. Add seasonings, strain and use.

CHAUD-FROID SAUCE

White — Soak one tablespoon gelatin in cold water and add
to one cup of hot veloute sauce. Mix well; strain, if necessary;
let cool and use to coat cold meats.

Brown — Use a brown roux and brown stock in making the
veloute.

Yellow — Add the beaten yolks of two eggs to white chaud-
froid sauce just before removing from the fire.

PINEAPPLE-ORANGE SAUCE

6 tablespoons sugar 1 cup orange juice

^ tablespoon cornstarch Grated rind 1 orange

1 cup water y^ cup crushed pineapple

Combine ingredients in the order listed. Heat to boiling and
cook for 3 minutes. Serve with ham or tongue.
Brown sugar may be used in place of granulated.
Add 54 cup raisins and cook until they puff.

POULETTE SAUCE

1 cup veloute sauce 2 egg yolks

1 cup cream

Slowly add, with constant stirring, the veloute to the Qg%
yolks, beat in the cream and reheat over hot water. Beat well

SAUCES FOR FISH, MEAT AND VEGETABLES 311

and serve at once. It is improved by adding, a little at a time,
one tablespoon butter, the juice of half a lemon, a tablespoon
of chopped parsley and a dash of nutmeg.

BUTTER SAUCE A LA CREOLE

1 cup cold water Yz tablespoon flour
4^ tablespoons butter Juice of 1 lemon

Make a sauce of one-half cup cold water, one-half tablespoon
butter and the flour. When the mixture boils, stir in quickly
four tablespoons butter and add, by degrees, another one-half
cup of cold water to keep the mixture from boiling. Stir in
the juice of a lemon and strain. It must be served at once and
hot. It becomes oily if kept long. One tablespoon of chopped
parsley may be added.

DRAWN BUTTER SAUCE

Yj, cup butter 1 pint boiling water

4 tablespoons flour Ya teaspoon salt

Make a roux of four tablespoons of the butter and all of the
flour. Gradually add the boiling water, stirring constantly
over hot water, until the sauce comes to the boiling-point.
Simmer until it is thick and smooth. When ready to serve, add
salt and the remaining butter in small bits, beating constantly.

MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE

2 cups drawn-butter sauce 2 egg-yolks

1 tablespoon lemon-juice Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

Add the lemon-juice and chopped parsley to the drawn-but-
ter sauce. Let it cool slightly, add the beaten yolks and season
with salt and pepper. Do not permit the sauce to boil after
the addition of the egg-yolk.

CAPER SAUCE

Follow the recipe for maitre d'hotel sauce, omitting the
parsley and adding three tablespoons capers. This is excellent
with fish.

(For another recipe for caper sauce, see Variations of White Sauce, page 309.)

IMITATION CAPER SAUCE

^2 cup chopped pickles 2 cups drawn butter sauce

To the drawn butter sauce add pickles, cut into tiny cubes
of a uniform size and well drained. Boil for one minute. Serve
with fish or chops.

HOLLAND AISE SAUCE

2 ^gg yolks 14 teaspoon salt

1/^ cup butter Dash cayenne

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Place Q.gg yolks with 54 of the butter in top of a double boiler.
Keep water in bottom of boiler hot but not boiling. Stir eggs
and butter constantly; when butter melts add another portion
and as it melts and the mixture begins to thicken add remaining
butter. Keep stirring all the time. As soon as mixture is thick,
remove from heat and add seasonings. The sauce is delicious
served over vegetables. Should sauce separate, beat in 2 table-
spoons boiling water, drop by drop. Makes 1 cup sauce.

Increase lemon juice to 1 ^ tablespoons.

With Water — Cream butter, add ^gg yolks 1 at a time,
blending each one in thoroughly. Add remaining ingredients
and beat. Just before serving add ^ cup boiling water grad-
ually, beating constantly. Cook over hot water, stirring con-
stantly until thickened. Serve at once.

"With Anchovy — Season sauce with anchovy paste.

With Sherry — Just before serving sauce, add 2 tablespoons
sherry, drop by drop, beating constantly.

BEARNAISE SAUCE

4 tablespoons fat 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar

Yolks 4 eggs 1 teaspoon onion juice

1/2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon chopped tarragon

1/2 teaspoon pepper 1 teaspoon chopped parsley

Stir the fat until perfectly soft and creamy. Place the Qg%
yolks and the salt and pepper in the top of a double boiler and
beat light with an ^gg beater, then add one-third of the fat and
beat until smooth, add another third and beat again, and then
add the remainder and beat until all is perfectly smooth. Add
the vinegar and onion juice and beat again. Place over boiling

SAUCES FOR FISH, MEAT AND VEGETABLES 313

water and cook for three minutes, beating constantly with the
egg-beater. Remove from the fire, put in the chopped parsley
and tarragon and use immediately.

VICTOR HUGO SAUCE

Yz teaspoon fine chopped 1 teaspoon lemon-juice

shallot 1 teaspoon meat extract or

1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar one meat cube

J/3 cup butter, washed (p. 591) 1 tablespoon grated horse-
Yolks of two Q.^^s radish

Cook the shallot in the vinegar for iisfo. minutes. Wash the
butter and divide, it into thirds. Add one of the thirds to the
vinegar, with the egg-yolks, lemon-juice and meat extract.
Cook over hot water, stirring constantly. As soon as the butter
is melted, add the second piece, and then the third piece.
When the sauce thickens, add the grated horseradish.

GIBLET GRAVY

Giblets and neck of fowl 2 tablespoons flour

2 tablespoons chicken fat Salt and pepper

Place the giblets (liver, heart and gizzard) and the neck in
a saucepan and cove^ them with cold water. Simmer slowly
and when they are tender remove the flesh from the neck and
chop it fine with the giblets. Save the stock in which the giblets
and neck were cooked. Heat the fat in a small saucepan on
top of the stove and when it is hot stir in the flour. Cook two
minutes, them add one cup of the stock pouring it in gradually
so that it will not thin the gravy too much. If the gravy seems
too thick, add a little, hot water. Last, put in the chopped
giblets and season to taste with salt and pepper.

BREAD SAUCE

1 cup stale bread-crumbs 1 onion

2 cups milk 3 tablespoons butter
Salt Pepper

This sauce is generally served with small birds. It may be
served with roast chicken or duck. The crumbs must be entirely
white. Sift them through a coarse sieve, place the ones that
pass through in the milk, add the onion and place in a stew-

314

pan on the fire to cook. Cook for twelve minutes, remove the
onion and add one tablespoon of butter with salt and pepper
to taste.

Browned Crumbs — Place the remaining butter on the fire
in a frying-pan, add the coarse bread-crumbs and fry them
until brown, being careful to have the fat very hot before
putting in the crumbs. Stir vigorously for two or three min-
utes, but do not allow the crumbs to burn. Serve the sauce in
a gravy-dish and sprinkle with the browned crumbs.

No. 1. BROWN SAUCE

1 tablespoon chopped onion 2 tablespoons flour

2 tablespoons fat 1 cup brown meat stock
Pepper Salt

Brown the onion and fat. Add the flour and make a brown
roux (See Index). Pour in the brown stock and cook with
constant stirring until the sauce thickens. Strain to remove
the particles of onion, and season with pepper and salt. If the
roux was not sufficiently brown to make the? sauce a desirable
color, a few drops of vegetable flavoring or of Worcestershire
sauce may be added. If a more highly flavored sauce is desired,
add a slice of carrot, a sprig of parsley, a little thyme and a few
peppercorns to the onion, and brown in the fat.

No. 2 — In making brown sauce for a roast, the simplest way
is to use the fat and juice of the roast. Add two tablespoons
of flour to two tablespoons of the hot drippings, stir and cook
well. Then add one cup of boiling water, stir well to avoid
lumps, and season to taste with salt and pepper. If liked, add
a tablespoon or two of catchup or a flavoring of Worcester-
shire or other sauce.

MADE GRAVY

2 small onions Butter or other fat

1 carrot Flour

Small piece of lean beef, size Pepper

of eggy or 1 beef cube or Salt

1 teaspoon beef extract Catchup

Cut up onions and carrot, place them with the lean beef or
extract in a stew-pan with the fat and brown all together. Add
enough water to cover the mixture and stir slowly until the

SAUCES FOR FISH, MEAT AND VEGETABLES 315

vcjgetables are cooked. Strain, thicken with flour, using two
tablespoons to each cup of liquid, and add pepper, salt and
catchup. Color brown with caramel or vegetable flavoring if
necessary.

CURRANT JELLY SAUCE

1 onion 1 stalk celery

1 tablespoon fat 1 bay-leaf

1 tablespoon flour 2 tablespoons vinegar

Yz cup currant jelly 2 cups stock

Slice the onion and cook in the fat till it begins to color,
the^ add the flour and herbs and stir until brown. Add the
vinegar and the stock and simmer twenty minutes. Strain,
skim off all the fat, put in the jelly and stir until it is melted.
This sauce is used with game.

MUSHROOM SAUCE

4 tablespoons fat 1 cup mushrooms, fresh or

4 tablespoons flour canned

2 cups stock Salt and pepper

Make a brown sauce of the fat, flour and stock. Add one
cup mushrooms and cook until hot. If mushrooms are over-
cooked they will become tough. Three or four minutes is
sufficient for those that have been canned and five or six min-
utes for fresh ones.

This sauce is used with any kind of roasted, broiled or braised
meat, particularly with beef.

ONION SAUCE

Yz cup minced onion 1 Y2 cups beef stock

3 tablespoons fat 1 tablespoon minced parsley

3 tablespoons flour

Cook the onion with the fat until slightly browned. Stir in
the flour, then add the stock and parsley, stirring constantly.
Serve with beef.

3i6

SAUCE PIQUANTE

2 tablespoons butter or other 2 cloves

fat 1 clove garlic

2 onions 2 tablespoons flour

2 carrots 1 cup beef or veal stock

2 shallots Yz cup vinegar

Thyme Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon minced parsley-
Melt fat, slice into it onions, carrots and shallots. Add a little

thyme, minced parsley, cloves and clove of garlic. Let this
mixture cook until the carrot is soft, then add flour. Let it
cook for five minutes more, and add beef or veal stock and
vinegar, skim, and strain through a sieve. Add salt and pepper
when boiling.

SAUCE ROBERT

6 onions 1 tablespoon mushroom

2 tablespoons fat catchup

2 tablespoons flour Salt and pepper

1 cup stock Mustard

1 tablespoon lemon-juice

Slice onions and saute them in the fat in a small saucepan
until they are well browned; then add the flour, mushroom
catchup, stock, salt, pepper and mustard to taste and the lemon-
juice. This sauce may be served with both cold and hot meats.

CURRY SAUCE

1 tablespoon fat 1 pint stock, milk or water

2 teaspoons chopped onion 1 tablespoon flour
1 teaspoon curry-powder Salt and pepper

This sauce is used as a basis for many dishes. Cold meat or
fish, oysters, hard-cooked eggs, canned or left over salmon, lob-
ster, and shrimps, all may be heate,d in this sauce and a great
variety of dishes is thus made possible. Have the fat hot and
saute in it the chopped onion until a delicate brown, then add
the curry-powder and stock or wate;:. Simmer for ten minutes
and then stir in the flour that has been rubbed smooth in a
tablespoon of cold water. Allow it to boil for a minute or two,
stirring constantly. Strain and it is ready for use.

SAUCES FOR FISH, MEAT AND VEGETABLES 317

SAUCE SUPREME

2 tablespoons fat 2 tablespoons lemon-juice

2 tablespoons flour 2 teaspoons chopped parsley

1 cup chicken stock

Place the fat in a frying-pan, over the fire, and when it is
hot, add the flour. Stir well* When it is turning brown, add
the chicken stock and boil for several minutes, stirring con-
stantly. Then add the lemon-juice and the parsley. After
the sauce has boiled up once, it is ready to serve.

OLIVE SAUCE

2 dozen olives 2 tablespoons flour

2 tablespoons salad oil 1 pint stock

1 slice onion Salt and pepper
1 lemon

Place the olives in an earthenware bowl, cover with hot water
and let them remain for half an hour to draw out the brine.
Place the oil in a frying-pan, and add the onion; when this
commences to color, add the flour. Stir until smooth. After
it has cooked for two minutes, add the stock, and regulate the
heat so that the sauce will simmer gently. Pare the olives from
the stones, round and round as though paring an apple, leaving
the pulp in a single strip. If this is done carefully, the olives
will coil back into shape. Place them in the sauce, add the
seasoning and the juice of the lemon and simmer for twenty
minutes. Skim carefully and serve.

SPANISH SAUCE

1 tablespoon minced lean raw 2 tablespoons flour

ham Yz cup stock

1 tablespoon chopped celery* Yz cup tomato- juice

1 tablespoon chopped carrot Y2 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon chopped onion Y& teaspoon pepper

2 tablespoons fat

Melt the fat. Add the ham and vegetables and cook until
they are brown. Make a sauce of this mixture and the flour,
salt, pepper and liquid.

3i8

CHATEAUBRIAND SAUCE

3 tablespoons fat Pepper

1 tablespoon lemon- juice 1 teaspoon minced paisley

1 teaspoon salt 2 cups Spanish sauce

Whip together the fat, lemon- juice, salt, a pinch of pepper
and minced parsley. Add the Spanish sauce, reheat, stir for
a moment and serve.

TOMATO SAUCE

1 quart fresh or canned 3 tablespoons fat

tomatoes 3 tablespoons flour

1 slice onion Salt and pepper
8 cloves

Set the) tomatoes, onion and cloves on the fire and cook for
twenty minutes. Brown the fat in the frying-pan, add the
flour, and cook until smooth and brown, stirring constantly.
Add the tomatoes, cook for three minutes, season with salt and
pepper and pass through a strainer fine enough to hold back
the seeds. This makes a very thin sauce. Use more flour if
you prefer a thick sauce.

TOMATO AND MUSHROOM SAUCE

2 slices bacon or small quan- 2 cloves

tity uncooked ham Yz teaspoon peppercorns

1 slice onion Few gratings nutmeg
6 slices carrot ^ No. 2 can tomatoes
Bay-leaf 5 tablespoons flour

2 sprigs thyme 1^ cups brown stock
Sprig parsley Salt and pepper

1^ No. 1 can mushrooms

Chop the bacon or ham, and cook with onion and carrot
for iiYQ minutes. Add bay-leaf, thyme, parsley, cloves, pepper-
corns, nutmeg, and tomatoes, and cook five minutes. Mix the
flour with five tablespoons of cold water and rub out all the
lumps; then add enough water so that the batter can be poured
in a thin stream. Add to the sauce, stirring constantly. As
the sauce thickens, dilute it with the stock. Cover, set in the

SAUCES FOR FISH, MEAT AND VEGETABLES 3^9

oven (300° F.) and cook one hour. Strain, add salt and
pepper to taste and the mushrooms, drained and cut in quarters.
Then cook two minutes over direct heat.

RAVIGOTE SAUCE

1 cup thin white sauce 1 tablespoon minced chervil

% cup lemon-juice 1 tablespoon minced tarragon

1 tablespoon tarragon vine- leaves

gar 1 tablespoon minced chives

1 tablespoon minced shallot 1 tablespoon butter

While sauce is hot, add other materials, except butter. Keep
hot five minutes, strain, beat in butter. Serve hot or cold.

BROWNED BUTTER

Place a piece of butter in a hot frying-pan and toss about
until it browns. Stir browned flour into it until it is smooth
and commences to boil. This is used for coloring gravies,
sauces, etc.

BROWNED FLOUR

Spread flour on a pie-tin and place on the stove or in a very-
hot oven (450° -5 00° F.). When it begins to color, stir con-
stantly until it is evenly browned throughout. When cold,
cork closely in jars.

GLAZING FOR MEAT

No. 1 — Boil one quart of consomme until it is reduced to one
cup. For half-glaze, reduce it to one pint.

No. 2 — Simmer a small amount of jellied stock with burnt
sugar until it becomes like a sirup.

No. 3 — To one cup brown stock, add one-half tablespoon
gelatin soaked in four tablespoons water. The glaze should be
melted over hot water and applied to meat, fish, game or
poultry.

320

No 1. CRANBERRY SAUCE

1 quart cranberries 2 cups boiling water

2 cups sugar

Boil the sugar and water together for Hyq minutes. Remove
any scum that may have formed. Add the cranberries and
cook without stirring until they are thick and clear.

No. 2 — Cook the cranberries and water together until the
skins of the berries are broke;i. Add the sugar and simmer
for five or ten minutes. Chill before using.

No. 3 — If a strained sauce is desired, cook the cranberries
and water as in No. 2 and rub through a sieve. Return the
strained portion to the fire, add the sugar and simmer for £Ye
or ten minutes.

SPICED CRANBERRIES

4 cups cranberries 5 allspice

5 cloves 2 sticks cinnamon

3 cups sugar 2 blades mace

Pick over and wash the berries. Place in a saucepan and
cover with cold water. Tie spices in a cheese-cloth bag and
drop in with the berries. Cook until the berries burst. Re-
move spices, add sugar, and cook until the mixture is clear.
Chill.

MOCK WILD CHERRY SAUCE

1 quart cranberries 2^ cups sugar

1 cup water • 1 teaspoon almond flavoring

Add cranberries to boiling water, cover and cook until the
berries burst. Add sugar and boil a few minutes longer. Add
flavoring.

No. 1. APPLE SAUCE

4 quarts sweet cider 2 quarts apples

By boiling it uncovered, reduce four quarts of new cider to
two quarts. Pare, quarter and core the apples and simmer
with the cider for four hours. Flavor with cinnamon, if de-
sired.

SAUCES FOR FISH, MEAT AND VEGETABLES 321

No. 2.

1 quart apples 1 cup sugar 1 cup water

Pare, chop and place apples in a deep pudding-dish; sprinkle
with sugar, and pour water over them. Bake in a slow oven
(250°-350° F.) two hours or more^, until they are a rich red-
brown. Serve with goose, pork or game.

MINT SAUCE

1 tablespoon powdered sugar J4 cup minced mint leaves

Yz cup vinegar

Dissolve sugar in vinegar. Pour this over minced mint
leaves and set where it will keep warm but not hot. Allow it
to infuse for half an hour. If vinegar is very strong, dilute
with water.

CURRANT MINT SAUCE

^ cup currant jelly 1 to 2 tablespoons chopped

Shavings from orange-rind mint leaves

Separate jelly into pieces, but do not beat it. Add chopped
mint leaves and orange-rind shavings. Serve around roast.

SOUTHERN BARBECUE SAUCE

^ cup butter or other fat 2 tablespoons chili sauce

1 sour pickle, finely chopped 4 slices lemon

2 tablespoons chopped onion 1 teaspoon brown sugar

2 tablespoons Worcestershire 1 green pepper, chopped fine

sauce 1 cup vinegar

Combine all ingredients and mix thoroughly. Place in a
saucepan and simmer until butter or other fat melts, stirring
constantly. Place in the top of a double boiler and keep warm
until ready to use on barbecued meats or as a sauce for barbecued
sandwiches. Makes 1% cups sauce.

Barbecued Meats, beef, lamb, veal and pork in the form
of roasts, chops or steaks are braised in this sauce. Chicken may
also be used.

322

CUCUMBER SAUCE

2 cucumbers Salt and cayenne

Yz cup stock Celery essence

J/2 tablespoon vinegar

Cut peeled cucumbers into very small pieces. Simmer until
tender in a saucepan with stock, vinegar, salt, cayenne and a
little celery essence. Celery-salt may be used instead of plain
salt, if preferred. A bit of boiled onion and a little butter
may be added also, if desired. Strain through a sieve.

ANCHOVY SAUCE

54 cup fresh butter Cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon anchovy paste

Melt the butter and stir in the anchovy paste and the cayenne
pepper. Warm and stir thoroughly and serve with either boiled
or fried fish.

BEURRE NOIR

2 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 tablespoon vinegar Yz teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon lemon-jiiice ^ teaspoon pepper

Place the butter in a frying-pan and when it is browned add
the other ingredients. Boil up once and serve. This sauce is
poured over fried fish or boiled fish just before serving.

PARSLEY BUTTER

3 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
J/2 to 1 tablespoon lemon- Yz teaspoon salt

juice Yz teaspoon pepper

Cream butter and add lemon-juice, chopped parsley, salt
and pepper. This may be used to spread on fried or boiled fish
or over potato balls. "When intended for potato balls, one-half
tablespoon of lemon-juice will be enough.

LOBSTER BUTTER

I lobster coral 3 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons chopped lobster Seasoning

Lobster butter is used in lobster soups and sauces to give
color and richness. Pound the coral of a lobster to a smooth

SAUCES FOR FISH, MEAT AND VEGETABLES 323

paste with two tablqspoons of butter, add chopped lobster and
remaining tablespoon of butter and pound again until all is
reduced to a smooth paste, then rub through a fine sieve. If
coral is not obtainable, the small claws may be pounded with
the butter.

MUSTARD SAUCE

1 tablespoon dry mustard 1 tablespoon vinegar

Yz teaspoon sugar 1 tablespoon melted butter

Y^ teaspoon salt Ya cup boiling water

Mix dry ingredients, add liquids, mix well and serve.

JELLY SAUCE

1 glass currant or grape 1 teaspoon dry mustard

jelly 1 teaspoon salt

Turn the currant or grape jelly out into a deep plate and
beat it to a foam. Then add dry mustard and salt and beat
again thoroughly.

ORANGE RAISIN SAUCE

1 cup boiling water 1 tablespoon flour
Juice and grated rind of one 1 tablespoon butter

orange Yi cup seeded raisins

Ya cup sugar

Mix the dry ingredients, add boiling water and cook until
clear. Add the orange- juice and rind, the raisins and the butter.

REMOULADE SAUCE

2 hard-cooked egg-yolks 7 cups oil

1 raw egg-yolk 1 teaspoon mustard

3 tablespoons tarragon vinegar 54 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons cider vinegar 1 teaspoon parsley

Put the cooked yolks of eggs through a coarse wire sieve, and
then put thetm in z. dish with the raw yolk and the seasoning.
Add two tablespoons of the vinegar and beat thoroughly isNt
minutes. Next add the oil, one teaspoon at a time, beating
the mixture two or three minutes at a time after each addition
of oil. When five teaspoons have thus been added, the rest of

324

the oil may be put in in larger quantities, three or four teaspoons
at a time. Whenever the sauce becomes so thick that the
beater turns hard, put in one-half tablespoon of vinegar. This
sauce may be used for meat| for salads, or for such vegetables
as asparagus, broccoli and artichokes. It may be varied by
adding capers, minced gherkins and a dash of cayenne. There
is not a great deal of difference between remoulade sauce and
mayonnaise.

TARTAR SAUCE

1 cup mayonnaise dressing 1 tablespoon chopped

1 teaspoon onion-juice cucumber pickle

1 tablespoon capers

Make the mayonnaise rather more sour and with a little more
mustard than for salad, and mix into it the capers, pickle and
onion- juice. Set in the refrigerator until needed. It should be
quite thick when served.

No. 1. HORSERADISH SAUCE

1 teaspoon mustard Salt

3 tablespoons cream Horseradish

1 tablespoon vinegar

Mix the first four ingredients and add as much grated horse-
radish as needed to make it the desired thickness.

No. 2.

% cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon vinegar

3 tablespoons grated horse- ^ teaspoon salt

radish Sprinkle of cayenne or pepper

Whip the cream stiff. Mix the other ingredients and beat
them gradually into the whipped cream. Serve on baked ham.

BUTTER-ORANGE FLUFF

y^ pound butter y^ cup brown sugar

1 teaspoon grated orange rind

Cream the butter until light and fluffy. Add brown sugar
gradually, beating the mixture to a light, fluffy mass. Stir in the
grated orange rind. Use for waffles and pancakes.

SAUCES FOR FISH, MEAT AND VEGETABLES 325

VINAIGRETTE SAUCE

1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon chopped pickle

54 teaspoon paprika 1 tablespoon chopped green
Few grains pepper pepper

1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar 1 teaspoon chopped parsley

2 tablespoons cider vinegar 1 teaspoon chopped chives
6 tablespoons olive oil

Mix the ingredients in the order given.

CREOLE SAUCE

2 tablespoons chopped Salt and pepper

onion 2 tomatoes or I/2 cup canned

4 tablespoons minced green tomatoes

pepper 1 cup bouillon

2 tablespoons butter J4 ^P sliced mushrooms

3 tablespoons flour

Saute onion and pepper in butter 5 minutes; add flour and
seasonings and stir until browned; add tomatoes and mushrooms
gradually and cook 2 minutes; then add bouillon and heat to
boiling. Serve with omelet, spaghetti and fish. Yield: 2 cups.

FRONTIER SAUCE

3 tablespoons flour % cup tomato juice

2 tablespoons butter ^ cup liquid drained from

Y2 teaspoon salt stewed or canned mush-

% teaspoon paprika rooms

Dash of tabasco 2 tablespoons heavy cream

Stir flour into melted butter; add seasonings and tabasco,
then add tomato juice and mushroom liquor gradually and cook
5 minutes, stirring constantly until smooth and thick. Add
cream and blend. Serve on macaroni or spaghetti. Yield: IJ^
cups sauce.

ENTREES AND MADE-OVER
DISHES

AN entree is a dish that is served as an independent course
between two main courses of a meal. In an informal meal,
an entree of protein food may be served as the main course.

An entree is usually a "light" dish, small in bulk, and is often
accompanied by a sauce which may or may not be an integral
part of the dish. It may be served either hot or cold. Hot
entrees are often accompanied by a hot sauce, such as Hol-
landaise or maitre d'hotel; and cold entrees by cold sauces,
— vinaigrette, tartar, etc. Ordinarily the hot entree precedes
the roast and the cold entree follows it.

Entrees may be made of a great number of foods — eggs in
many attractive forms; fish of all kinds; meat, such as lamb,
veal and tender cuts of fowl and beef, cooked by some method
other than roasting; macaroni and spaghetti; some fruits; and
many kinds of vegetables.

Increasingly in America today vegetables are served as
entrees. This is undoubtedly due to the fact that the eating
habits of the nation have changed, because we have a growing
knowledge of and interest in the food -values of vegetables and
fruits. For luncheon and dinner now one vegetable is often
raised to the dignity of becoming a course by itself.

Hot Entrees

Creamed Mixtures — These are the most simple and easily
prepared of the hot entrees. Any well-seasoned creamed mix-
ture may be use4. It must be kept hot and transferred at the
last possible moment to the container in which it is to be served.
This may be merely a slice of toast, an individual case such
as a ramekin, patty shell or timbale case, or a border formed
of bread, rice or potato.

Forcemeats — ^These should have a smooth^ velvety texture.
They call for more effort in preparation than any other type of
entree. They are made of cooked or uncooked meat or fish
in finely divided form, those made of the uncooked material
being considered the more choice. Such foods as chicken and

326

ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 327

ham, shell fish and any fine white fish make typical forcemeats.
Forcemeats may be use,d in combination with other materials
or cooked alone to form cutlets and timbales. The cutlets are
cooked in shallow, chop-shaped molds and the timbales in deep,
straight sided molds.

Croquettes — Croquettes are made of cooked and chopped
ingredients held together, usually, by means of a thick sauce.
When the mixture is cold, it is made into shapes of uniform
size, which are coated with flour or sifted crumbs, then rolled
in an egg mixture so that the egg forms a continuous film, then
rolled in crumbs again. The egg mixture is made by adding
two tablespoons of water or milk to each egg required, and beat-
ing just enough to break up the white of the egg. The cro-
quettes may be allowed to stand until dry or may be fried at
once in deep hot fat. This is a good way to use left-over cooked
foods.

Croquettes are made In the form of balls, rolls, cones, nests
or cups, cutlets or flat cakes. Whatever shape is desired, it is
usually easier to attain it by making the mixture into a ball
first, thus insuring a compact mass from which the chosen
form may be readily molded.

Cutlets — ^This word, as used in this chapter refers to the
form in which the food is cooked rather than to a distinct type
of food. Sometimes cutlets are made by packing forcemeat
into shallow, chop-shaped molds, but more often they are cro-
quettes, cut or shaped to look like breaded chops or cutlets.
The term may be extended to include boiled cereal, such as
rice or cornmeal, which has been packed into a shallow dish,
left until cold, and then cut into pieces, rolled in egg and crumbs
and fried or sauted.

Fritters — ^These may be composed of a piece; of fruit en-
closed in a batter, then fried in deep hot fat and served with
an appropriate sauce; or chopped fruit, chopped vegetable, or
other chopped food, such as dams or lobster, stirred into the
batter and fried by spoonfuls.

Timbales — ^This term is sometimes used to describe force-
meat cooked in straight-sided deep molds. More frequently
perhaps it refers to sugarless custards cooked in timbale molds.
In timbales of this type, where egg is the thickening agent,
savory seasonings are used, and the milk which ordinarily forms
an important component of custard is replaced in part or en-
tirely by meat stock or vegetable puree.

(

328

All timbales are cooked in molds of some sort; they are
cooked by oven-poaching and are not browned. They are
turned out of the molds before they are served. A circle of
buttered paper laid in the bottom of the mold before it is filled
insures perfect unmolding.

Hot Souffles — These are the lightest of the entrees, being
made' so by well-beaten egg-white folded into the seasoned
foundation mixture. This may be simply a fruit puree or
pulp; it may be a white sauce combined with egg-yolks and
the characterizing ingredient; or it may be a panada made by
cooking either cracker or bread-crumbs with milk and adding
the prepared ingredient, this method being best for meat souffles.
Souffles need the same careful baking given to egg timbales and
are served in or from the baking-dish. The top should be
browned.

Fillets — ^This type of entree is composed of a solid piece of
meat or fish, and may comprise breasts or joints of poultry,
chops, large oysters, scallops, crabs, fillets of fish and the first
three cuts of beef tenderloin. These when used as entrees,
may be cooked by broiling, sauteing, frying or oven-poaching,
but never by roasting because the flavor and effect would be
too much like that of the main course.

Vegetable Entrees — ^Hot or Cold

The following vegetables are suggested for service as en-
trees: asparagus, cauliflower and broccoli, hot with HoUandaise
or butter sauce, or cold with vinaigrette; tomato surprise,
stuffed, for instance, with mushrooms; corn on the cob; mush-
rooms; baked lima beans; long, thin string beans, not cut or
split; large beets hollowed out and filled with bread crumbs
and tiny peas or chopped carrots or both; stuffed peppers;
egg plant; baked Hubbard squash, Brussels sprouts; braized
celery or endive; cucumbers; and artichoke bottoms stuffed
with forcemeat and baked.

Cold Entrees

Asi'ics — Aspic is a spiced tart jelly made from brown or
white meat stock alone or in combination with gelatin. It is
used to enclose a variety of foods in a mold or to give a trans-
parent coating of shining, sparkling finish. Various foods may

4.ir

ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 329

be molded in aspic — for instance, stuffed olives, plain or stuffed
tomatoes, eggs, birds, beef tongue, chicken salad or a mousse.

Aspics give ample opportunity to show inventiveness in de-
sign, for they are usually elaborately decorated. Decorative
shapes may be cut from pimiento, green or red pepper, olives,
pickles, hard-cooked egg-white, yellow custard, parsley, truffles
or cooked vegetables. Green peas and capers, alsoj are fre-
quently used.

Chaud Froids — ^For these dishes, the sauce is made up hot
but the finished product is served cold. The sauce, which
may be white, yellow or brown, and stiffened with gelatin,
is used to give a smooth, glossy surface to eggs, cutlets, breast
or other choice pieces of chicken, fish fillets, etc.^ all of which
must be plainly cooked and well seasoned. A decoration is
usual, also a final coating of aspic.

Mousses — ^This term, used in connection with entrees, refers
to a dish made of a meat, fish or vegetable puree stiffened
with gelatin and made light by means of beaten cream. It
is molded to give it shape, chilled^ then unmolded for serving.

Cold Souffles — ^It is difficult to differentiate these from the
mousses. About the only difference is the manner of serving.
The mixture may be put into individual dishes of china, or
paper cases, having paper bands pinned about the top to give
greater height. When the mixture is chilled, the bands are
removed. The mixture, extending above the edge of the, con-
tainer, gives the effect of great lightness, thus simulating a
souffle.

Salads — Salads are not usually thought of as entrees, but
in a formal menu are so considered.

Borders and Cases

BREAD CROUSTADES

Cut slices of bread from one to two inches thick. Remove
the brown part of the crust. Cut each trimmed slice into
two oblongs or two triangles, for large croustades, or into four
squares or four triangles, for small croustades. Or shape the
bread with cookie cutters into circles, diamonds, etc. Insert
the point @f a sharp knife into the top of the shaped piece, one-
half inch from the edge, and cut around the outline^ running

330

the knife down to within one-half inch of the bottom. Insert
the knife point horizontally through one side of the slice, one-
half inch from the bottom, and cut out and remove the center^
leaving a box with half-inch walls and bottom. Fry these
cases in deep fat, (375° -390° F.) or, if you prefer, brush
them over with melted fat and set them in a moderate oven
(350°-400° F.) to brown.

RICE CROUSTADES

Cook one cup of washed rice in white stock instead of in
water. Drain well, mix with a thick white sauce, and spread
in a greased pan to the depth of about two inches. Cover
with oiled paper and place weights on top, so that the mix-
ture may become very compact when cold. When it is per-
fectly firm, cut it in circles,- make a cavity in the center of
each, dip the case thus made in fine bread-crumbs, then in eggy
and again in crumbs, and fry in deep fat (375°-390° F.).

POTATO BORDER

9 medium-sized potatoes 1 tablespoon salt

2 tablespoons butter 2 eggs
Yz cup hot milk

Boil and rice the potatoes. Add remaining ingredients except
54 teaspoon salt and the egg whites. Beat the mixture until very
light. Pack into a border mold, well greased, and set in warm
place eight minutes. Unmold onto an oven-proof platter. Beat
egg whites, with remaining salt, to a froth, spread over the
border and brown in a slow oven (300°-350° F.).

Potato Timbales — Peel potatoes and cut into tiny strips
lengthwise. Heat in a small amount of fat until slightly soft —
don't brown. Remove, sprinkle with salt and arrange nests
inside large deep muflSn tins, pressing firmly against sides and
bottom. Bake in hot oven (450° F.) for 15 minutes. Use car-
rots, parsnips, macaroni, spaghetti or fin« noodles instead of
potatoes. ^j^^ BORDER

1 cup rice 2 tablespoons butter or other

3 cups white stock fat

1 tablespoon salt 3 tablespoons milk or cream

2 egg-yolks

Cook washed rice in white stock for one-half hour, then
add salt and butter or other fat and cook slowly twenty minutes

ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 331

more. Beat the yolks of the eggs with the cream or milk and
stir in. Grease a border mold, pack the rice firmly into it, let
it stand eight to ten minutes in a warm (not hot) place and
turn out on a hot platter. Fill the center with any meat
preparation warmed in sauce.

TIMBALE ROSETTES

1 egg ^2 cup flour

10 tablespoons irradiated % teaspoon salt

evaporated milk l^/^ teaspoons sugar

Beat ^gg slightly. Add milk. Sift flour, then measure. Re-
sift with salt and sugar into the ^gg and milk mixture. Stir
until batter is smooth. It should be about the consistency of
heavy cream. Use a deep, heart-shaped timbale iron. Dip in the
hot fat to heat, then in the batter, being careful that the batter
does not come up over the top of the iron.

Have ready a small, deep kettle of fat, place the iron in it
and heat until the fat is hot enough to brown a piece of bread
while counting sixty (370° F.). The fat should be deep
enough to cover the mold end of the iron. Take out the heated
iron, remove surplus fat with a piece of absorbent paper and
lower the iron into the batter until it is covered not more than
three-fourths its height. This is necessary to allow for the
rising of the batter during cooking. If only a thin layer of
batter adheres to the iron, plunge it in again, and repeat if
necessary until there is a smooth layer of partly cooked batter.
Plunge it quickly into the hot fat and cook from two to three
minutes. Remove from the fat, slip the case from the iron
on to absorbent paper and continue until you have the required
number of cases.

A fluted iron is easier to work with than a plain one, be-
cause the case does not slip off until thoroughly cooked. A
properly cooked case, however, should slip easily from the
mold. If the cases are not crisp, the Datter is too thick and
should be diluted with milk.

These cases may be filled with a creamed vegetable, creamed
oysters, chicken or sweetbreads, or with fresh or cooked fruit
topped with whipped cream or powdered sugar. When sweet
fillings are used, they are served as a dessert. This recipe makes
about 20 cases with an iron of average size.

332

RISSOLES

These are practically little turnovers, filled with a highly-
seasoned mixture of chopped chicken and ham or other deli-
cate meat moistened with white sauce. Roll puflF-paste very
thin and cut in circlfe^. Place a teaspoon of the mixture in the
center of each circle^ moisten half the circumference with cold
water, and fold the other half over^ pressing the edges closely
together. Dip in slightly beaten egg mixed with a tablespoon
of water. Fry in deep fat (3 60° -370° F.) and drain
thoroughly.

BOUCHEES

iSmall pastry shells or cases filled with creamed meat or game
are called bouchees, and are much in vogue for entrees. They
provide an excellent way of utilizing left-overs of chicken,
sweetbreads, fish, etc. Paper cases, bought at the confectioner's^
may be used instead of the pastry shells.

PATTY CASES

Roll puff -paste to the thickness of one-half inch and with
a cookie cutter shape circles two and one-half to three inches
in diameter. With a tiny cutter, remove the centers from half
of the circles. Brush the edges of the complete circles with
water and lay the rings on top. Chill thoroughly? then bake
in a hot oven (400° -450° F.) from fifteen to twenty minutes.
At the same time, bake the small centers removed from the
upper layers of the cases, and use them as lids for the filled
patties.

VOL AU VENTS

A vol au vent is a large patty. The French name signifies
something that will fly away in the wind. Roll out puff -paste
one and one-half inches in thickness, and cut a circle about
six inches in diameter, using a cutter or, with a sharp knife,
cutting around the edge of a plate laid on the paste. Place the
circle on a baking-tin andy with a sharp pointed knife or a
snialler cutter, cut a circle around the top about one and one-
half inches from the edge and about an inch deep. Do not
remove the center but bake the entire circle in a large, flat pan
in a hot oven (450°-500° F.) from thirty to fifty minutes.

REMOVE ALL BUT ^TTOM CRUST.
CUT AND SCOOPf OUT CENTER.
TOAST, FILL WiflH CREAMED SAL-
MON mixture" CRUMB AND BROWN
TO SERV^,

THE CLEVER HOSTESS Wilt.
MAKE TIMBALES OF SHREDDED
POTATOES. SPAGHETTI OR FINE
NOODLES AND FILL THEM
WITH SALMON A LA KING—
FOR INSTANCE

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s^^^
i^^^--"

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THE RING MOLD IS THE DELIGHT OF FAMILY AND FRIENDS WHETHER
OF NOODLES, VEGETABLES OR CHICKEN MOUSSE

;

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ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 333

When the outer crust is cooked, Hft out the center, remove the
uncooked paste from below, and the shell is ready to be filled.
It may be filled with lobster meat, oysters, chicken, or any
kind of dedicate meat or fish chopped and seasoned, and heated
in Bechamel, white, brown or mushroom sauce, or with sweet-
meats of any kind or fresh berries, sweetened. In using fish,
always add one teaspoon of lemon-juicq to the mixture after it
is taken from the fire.

HOT ENTREES
Creamed Mixtures

PATTIES

Patty cases are usually made ahead of time and must be
thoroughly heated before they are filled. To heat them, place
them in a moderate oven (350°-400° F.) fifteen or twenty
minutes before they are to be filled.

Chicken — ^Fill hot patty cases with creamed chicken.

Clam — Fill hot patty cases with creamed clams (See Index) .

Lobster — ^Fill hot patty cases with creamed lobster.

Sweetbread — ^Fill hot patty cases with creamed sweetbreads.

CHICKEN OR SALMON A LA KING

2 cups cooked diced chicken 1 cup mushrooms, sliced

2 tablespoons flour 1 cup chicken stock or milk

2 tablespoons butter 1 cup sour cream or evapo-

2 egg yolks rated milk

1 green pepper, minced 4 teaspoons sherry

1 pimiento, cut in thin strips Salt and pepper to taste

Melt the butter, add the peppers and mushrooms and saute
light yellow. Lift out. Blend the flour with the seasoned but-
ter. Then add the chicken stock and cook till thickened. Add
the chicken and, when hot, add the cream combined with the
beaten egg yolks, the mushrooms, pepper and pimiento. Add the
sherry and serve immediately. Do not cook after adding the
eggs or the mixture may curdle. Stand over hot, not bubbling,
water, if necessary. Use 1 can red salmon, boned and skinned.

334

CHOP SUEY

2 pounds uncooked chicken- 2 cups onions cut into threads

breast cut into pieces one- 2 cups bamboo shoots cut

sixteenth inch by one inch into pieces the same size

by one-half inch as the chicken

Bean sprouts equal in mea- 2 cups mushrooms sliced thin

sure to the chicken Fat or oil

Put the chicken meat, bean sprouts, onions, bamboo shoots
and mushrooms into a frying-pan with a little fat or oil to
prevent sticking and saute for ten minutes. Add hot water to
cover and cook for fifteen minutes longer. Add Chinese gravy;
season to taste; remove from fire and serve at once.

Chinese Gravy —

1 cup primary soup or Sugar Salt

chicken stock 1 teaspoon Chinese sauce

1 teaspoon corn-starch (can be bought ready pre-

Sesamum seed oil pared)

Mix the corn-starch in a little cold water, stir in the primary
soup or chicken stock and let it boil until it thickens. Add the
Chinese sauce, a few drops of sesamum seed oil and sugar and
salt to taste. Stir well.

Primary Soup —

Yz pound lean pork 1 pint water

Yz pound chicken

Chop the meat into small pieces and simmer two and one-
half hours, then strain through several folds of cheesecloth.

SWEETBREAD AND OYSTER PIE

1 pair sweetbreads 1 cup cream or milk

2 dozen oysters 2 egg-yolks, hard cooked
1 tablespoon fat Pepper and salt

1 tablespoon flour Puff or plain pie-paste

Prepare sweetbreads (see Index). Make a white sauce with
fat, flour and cream or milk, and add the egg-yolks, chopped
very fine. Add sweetbreads and prepared oysters to the sauce.
Season, put into a deep baking-dish, cover with a layer of paste,
and bake.

ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 335

SHIRRED CLAMS OR OYSTERS WITH
MUSHROOMS

1 dozen clams or oysters 1 dozen large mushrooms

lYz cups milk 3 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons flour % teaspoon grated onion

1 or 2 teaspoons anchovy Paprika

paste Salt and lemon-juice

Cut rounds of toast in two or two and one-half inch circles
and arrange in a shallow baking-dish; place large peeled mush-
room caps on the toast. Dip clams or oysters in melted butter
seasoned with salt, lemon- juice and paprika and lay on mush-
rooms, using enough butter to season mushrooms also. Bake
in a moderate oven (375° F.), until mushrooms are tender and
clams are cooked. Make a thin white sauce of milk, butter and
flour, season with onion and anchovy and color with vegetable
bouquet. Pour around the toast and serve.

SCOTCH WOODCOCK

2 tablespoons fat 1 tablespoon anchovy paste
1 tablespoon flour Yz teaspoon salt

1 cup milk 6 slices of bread

5 hard-cooked eggs

Prepare a white sauce with fat, flour and milk, add eggs
chopped fine^ anchovy paste and salt. Have the bread toasted
and lay it on a hot dish. Pour the hot mixture over it and
serve immediately.

Croquettes or Cutlets
BEEF CROQUETTES

1 cup cooked beef 1 egg

2 cups mashed potatoes Flour or egg and crumbs

Chop cold roast or corned beef fine and mix with well-
seasoned hot mashed potatoes. Beat the egg, work it in with
the mass and shape the mixture into little cakes. Roll either
in flour, fine crumbs or egg and crumbs and fry in deep fat
(375°-390* F.) from two to £.ye minutes.

336

No, 1, CHICKEN CROQUETTES

2 tablespoons fat 54 teaspoon celery salt

^ cup flour 1 teaspoon lemon-juice

1 cup milk Few drops onion-juice
1^ cups cooked fowl 1 teaspoon chopped parsley-
Salt and pepper Egg and crumbs

Make a white sauce with the fat, flour and milk. Add fowl,
seasoned with celery salt, lemon-juice, onion-juice, parsley, salt
and pepper. Cool, shape, dip into flour or fine crumbs, then into
egg and again into crumbs, and fry in deep fat (375°-390° F.)
from two to five minutes. White meat of fowl absorbs more
sauce than dark meat.

No. 2.

2 cups cooked chicken Yz teaspoon onion-juice
4 tablespoons chopped 1 tablespoon lemon-juice

mushrooms 2 tablespoons fat

1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon flour

Yz teaspoon pepper 1 cup milk or cream

1 teaspoon parsley 4 eggs

Mix the chicken, mushrooms, salt, pepper, parsley and the
onion and lemon-juice. Make a white sauce with the fat, flour
and milk or cream. Add the chickeoi, and cook for three
minutes. Stir in two of the eggs beaten until light. Take from
the fire immediately, pour into a greased, flat dish and set in a
cold place for an hour or so. The colder the mixture becomes,
the better it may be handled. Shape into cutlets, either in molds
or with a knife, and sprinkle both sides of each cutlet with fine
crumbs. Beat the other two eggs in a deep plate. Dip the cutlets
in the egg, then in crumbs, put them in a frying-basket, not
crowding them, and cook in deep fat (375°-390° F.) from two
to five minutes. Serve with Bechamel or mushroom sauce.

CHEESE CROQUETTES

(See Index.)

CRAB CROQUETTES

Follow recipe for lobster croquettes, using crab flakes in-
stead of lobster meat.

ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 337

EGG CROQUETTES

2 cups chopped, hard-cooked Yg teaspoon pepper

eggs Dash of cayenne

1 cup thick white sauce Egg and crumbs
Yz teaspoon salt

Chop the eggs fine, moisten with sauce as soft as can be
handled, and season. Let chill thoroughly on flat dish, well
greased, then divide evenly into portions, allowing two table-
spoons for each croquette. Shape into any desired form. Roll
in crumbs, dip in egg, again in crumbs, and fry in deep fat
(375° -3 90° F.) from two to Ryq minutes. Drain on soft
paper. Serve with a sauce.

FISH CROQUETTES

2 cups cooked fish Egg and crumbs

Yz cup drawn-butter sauce

Mince fish. Season to taste and moisten with drawn-butter
sauce. Spread upon a greased platter, and when stiif mold
into cutlets. Roll in fine crumbs, then in egg, and again in
crumbs, leave in the refrigerator until firm, and fry in deep fat
(375° -390° F.) from two to five minutes.

HAM CROQUETTES

2 cups mashed potatoes Cayenne

1 tablespoon fat 1 cup cooked ham

3 egg-yolks Egg and crumbs

Mix potato, fat, yolks of two eggs and cayenne, beat until
smooth, then set to cool. Chop the ham, mix with the other
yolk, cook until the mixture thickens, and turn out to cool.
When thoroughly cool^ take a tablespoon of the potato mix-
ture, make a hole in it, put a large teaspoon of the chopped
ham inside, close the hole and form a ball. Dip into flour,
then into egg, roll in crumbs, and fry in deep fat (375°-390°
F.) from two to £ve minutes.

338

LOBSTER CROQUETTES

2 tablespoons fat 1 teaspoon lemon-juice

Yi cup flour y^ teaspoon mustard

1 cup milk Egg and crumbs

2 cups cooked lobster meat

Make a white sauce, using the fat, flour and milk. Add
chopped lobster meat, which has been seasoned with lemon-
juice and mustard. Cool, shape, dip in flour, then in egg\ roll
in crumbs and fry in deep fat (375°-390° F.) from two to £nq
minutes. Serve with tomato cream sauce.

OYSTER CROQUETTES

1 pint oysters 1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon fat 1 tablespoon parsley

2 tablespoons flour IJ/2 tablespoons lemon-juice

1 egg-yolk Egg and crumbs

Cle,an the oysters (see Index). Heat in their own liquor
until the edges begin to curl, stirring all the time. Strain the
liquor and chop the oysters. Rub together fat and flour. Add
the oyster liquor and cook until thick. Then add the chopped
oysters and the well-beaten egg-yolk. After taking from the
fire, add salt, minced parsley and the lemon-juice. When stiff,
mold into desired shape. Dip in crumbs, beaten Qgg and crumbs
again, then fry in deep fat (375° -390° F.) from two to five
minutes. Serve with horseradish sauce.

No. 1. SALMON CROQUETTES

134 cups cooked salmon, fresh Salt and pepper

or canned Cayenne

2 tablespoons fat 1 teaspoon lemon-juice
Yi cup flour Egg and crumbs

1 cup milk

Make a white sauce with the fat, flour and milk. Add salt,
a little white pepper, and a few grains of cayenne,. To this
cream foundation add cold flaked salmon and lemon-juice.
Spread on a plate to cool. Shape; roll in fine crumbs, then in
cg% and again in crumbs and fry in deep fat (375°-390° F.)
from two to five minutes.

ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 339

No. 2.

1 cup hot mashed potatoes Salt and pepper

1 cup flaked salmon 1 teaspoon lemon-juice

Eggs and crumbs

Add potato to salmon. Season with salt, pepper and lemon-
juice. Shape into cutlets, egg and crumb and fry in deep fat
(375°-390° F.) from two to iive minutes.

SHAD ROE CROQUETTES

2 shad roe 1 tablespoon nutmeg, grated

1 tablespoon salt Pepper

1 tablespoon fat 1 tablespoon finely chopped

2 tablespoons flour parsley

1 cup milk or cream 1 teaspoon lemon-juice

2 egg-yolks Egg and crumbs

Wash the shad roe. Put them on the stove in a saucepan of
boiling water; add the salt, cover and simmer slowly a few
minutes; then remove the skin and mash them. Make a white
sauce with the fat, flour and milk, add egg-yolks, remove from
the stove, and add the seasonings and mashed roe. Mix
thoroughly and turn into a dish to cool. When cold form into
croquettes. Roll in fine crumbs, then in beaten egg, again in
bread-crumbs and fry in deep fat (375° -390° F.) from two to
£vQ minutes.

SURPRISE CROQUETTES

2 cups mashed potatoes Salt and pepper

4 tablespoons cream Cooked meat, cheese or vege-

1 teaspoon onion-juice table

2 egg-yolks Crumbs and flour
1 egg-white

To the mashed potato add cream or rich milk, onion-juice
and salt and pepper to taste. Be^t over the fire until smooth
and hot. Remove, slightly cool, and add the beaten egg-yolks.
Form into cylinders, or cone shapes; make a depression in each,
and into this put a teaspoon of creamed chicken, minced highly
seasoned meat, grated cheese, or a vegetable in cream sauce.
Press the potato around the filling. Beat the egg-white slightly,
dilute with a tablespoon of water, roll the croquettes in flour,

340

then in the beaten egg-white, and then in seasoned bread-
crumbs, and fry in deep fat (375° -390° F.) from two to five
minutes.

SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES

2 pairs sweetbreads 2 tablespoons fat

y4 cup mushrooms 4 tablespoons flour

1 tablespoon lemon-juice 1 cup milk or cream

Yz teaspoon parsley 2 eggs

Salt and pepper Egg and crumbs

Prepare sweetbreads (see Index). Separate from mem-
branes, add chopped mushrooms and seasonings. Make a white
sauce with the fat, flour and milk or cream, add sweetbread
mixture and cook for three minutes. Remove from the fire
and add two eggs, well beaten. Beat slowly. Pour this mix-
ture on a platter and set it away to cool. Shape into cylinders,
roll in beaten egg, then in bread or cracker-crumbs, and fry in
hot fat (375°-390° F.) from two to five minutes, using the
frying-basket. Serve with Bechamel sauce.

VEAL CROQUETTES

2 tablespoons butter or other 1 egg

fat 2 cups minced veal

3 tablespoons flour J4 cup chopped ham

1 cup milk ^ cup mushrooms, truffles
1 teaspoon onion-juice or sweetbreads

Salt and pepper Egg and crumbs
Paprika

Make a white sauce with the fat, flour and milk, and add
onion-juice, a little salt, pepper and paprika. Stir in the beaten
egg, cook one minute and remove from the fire. Add to this
the minced veal, the chopped ham and the chopped mushrooms,
sweetbread, or trufiles. When the mixture is cold, form into
small cylinder or pyramid shapes, roll in flour, then in e,gg and
then in crumbs and fry in deep fat (375°-390° F.) from two
to £.yQ minutes.

ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 341

POTATO OR HOMINY CROQUETTES

4 cups mashed potatoes or Onion-juice

cooked hominy Nutmeg

2 tablespoons cream or milk 2 egg-yolks

Salt and pepper Egg and crumbs
Chopped parsley

To the mashed hot potatoes or hominy, add cream or milk,
and seasonings. Mix well and beat until light, add the well-
beaten yolks of eggs and let stand till cold. Shape into oblong
or pear-shaped croquettes, roll in fine bread-crumbs, then in
beaten egg, and again in crumbs. Fry at once, until brown, in
hot fat (375°-390° F.).

Potato croquettes may be made more, dainty by rubbing the
potato mixture through a sieve before adding the eggs, ShoTtj
leafless stalks of parsley thrust into pear-shaped croquettes after
the manner of stems will make them very attractive.

RICE CROQUETTES

1 cup boiled rice Grated lemon-peel

5^ cup milk 1 egg

1 tablespoon sugar Egg and crumbs

1 teaspoon salt

Combine rice, milk, sugar, salt, grateid lemon-peel and the
well-beaten egg, and when cold, shape in ovals, roll in egg, then
in bread-crumbs or rolled crackers, and fry a rich brown in deep
fat (375°-390° F.).

RICE FAN-TAN

Yz cup rice 1 egg

2 cups milk 14 cup candied fruits
Yz teaspoon salt Egg and crumbs

2 tablespoons sugar Powdered sugar

Cook rice in milk until very soft. Stir in salt, sugar and
we^l-beaten egg, and remove at once from the fire. Mix in
cut up candied fruits — cherries, apricots, pineapple, etc. — and
turn into a shallow, well-oiled pan to cool. When firm, cut
into strips about one and one-half inches wide and three inches
long, dip into egg then into bread-crumbs and brown delicately
on both sides in butter or other fat. Drain, dust with powdered
sugar and serve hot.

IKEWER kS ONE OF YOUR
ALLlBlifeiVH£N USING ^ SMALL
MEAT

PEPPERS, ACORN SQUASHES AND OTHER SMALL
VEGETABLES MAKE ATTRACTIVE CUPS FOR
LEFTOVER MIXTURES

m^^'^

«^^

THE TRADITIONAL CROQUETTE
MAY BE VARIED TO SUIT TIME
AND OCCASION, AS IN THESE
MEAT BALLS ON HOT PEACH
HALVES

F*f- '^"

342

No. 1. FRIED OR SAUTEED MUSH

Make mush according to directions given (Index). Turn
it into a shallow greased pan, smoothing the surface. When
it is cold, turn it from the pan, cut in slices or cubes, dip in
fine bread or cracker-crumbs, then in beaten egg, adding three
tablespoons of milk to each egg, and then again in the crumbs.
Fry in deep fat (375°-390° F.). Drain on soft paper. Serve
hot with jelly sauce or sirup.

No. 2 — Cut cold mush into slices about one-fourth of an inch
thick, and saute until brown and crisp in a very little fat; if pre-
ferred, the slices may be sprinkled with flour, or dipped first
in salted beaten egg and then in bread or cracker-crumbs, before
sauteing. Hominy and other cereals may be fried in the same
way.

Fritters

(For sweet fritters and fritter batter, see Index).

CLAM FRITTERS

24 soft clams 1 cup milk

2 cups flour Yz cup clam liquor

2 teaspoons baking-powder 2 eggs

Yz teaspoon salt Salt and pepper

Make a batter of flour, baking-powder, salt, milk, clam
liquor and well-beaten eggs. Chop the clams, season with salt
and pepper and add to the batter. Drop by tablespoonfuls
into deep fat (3 60° -3 70° F.) and fry two to three minutes.

CORN FRITTERS

2 cups corn, fresh or canned 1 teaspoon melted fat

1 teaspoon salt Y2 cup milk

Ys teaspoon pepper - 2 cups flour \

1 egg 2 teaspoons baking-powder J

Chop the corn very fine and add salt, pepper, well-beaten
egg, melted fat, milk, flour and baking-powder. Fry two to
three minutes in deep fat (360°-370° F.). \

ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 343

OYSTER FRITTERS

1/4 cups oysters 2 cups flour

2 eggs 2 teaspoons baking-powder

1 cup milk J/2 teaspoon salt

Chop the oysters. Make a batter of the eggs, milk, flour,
baking-powder and salt. Stir the oysters into the batter and
drop by spoonfuls into deep hot fat (360°-370° F.).

PARSNIP FRITTERS

3 parsnips 1 cup milk

2 eggs 1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon fat 3 tablespoons flour

Boil the parsnips tender, grate fine or mash and pick out all
the fibrous parts. Beat the eggs light, and stir into the parsnips,
beating hard. Add the fat, milk, salt and flour. Drop by
spoonfuls into deep fat (3 60° -3 70° F.) and fry two to three
minutes.

I BREADED CALVES' BRAINS

Soak two pairs of calves' brains in cold water one-half hour;
then remove the thick membrane covering them and see that
they are perfectly white and bloodless. Divide into servings
for six. Put into enough boiling water to cover and simmer
for fifteen minutes. Then take them up and plungei them into
cold water. When they are cool, drain and season generously
with salt, and pepper. Dip into flour, then into beaten egg,
seasoned with salt and pepper, then into fine bread-crumbs;
place in a frying-basket and cook in deep fat (375° -400° F.)
five to eight minutes. Serve with ravigote or white sauce.

FLANK STEAK FILLETS

1 flank steak, unscored ^2 onion, chopped

y2 pound kidney suet or salt 2i/^ teaspoons salt

pork 14 teaspoon pepper

1/2 green pepper 8 metal skewers
1 cup tomatoes, strained

Cut suet or salt pork into one-inch strips. Place on steak and
roll meat tightly around the fat, skewering it through the roll

344

154 inches apart. Cut roll between skewers forming individual
fillets of steak with small squares of fat in center. Flour; brown
fillets on both sides, place in casserole or covered pan; add toma-
toes, onion, pepper and seasoning. Other vegetables, fine cut,
may also be added. Simmer 1 hour or until tender or finish in
300° F. oven. '

RING MOLDS

The ring mold is one of the most satisfactory ways of serving
entrees since it is decorative, permits endless variety in appear-
ance but involves no additional labor. Any recipe baked in a
loaf may be used in the ring mold. Grease the mold as any pan
for baking and unmold on the plate to be used for serving. The
center may be filled with another cooked vegetable, a stew,
creamed fish or poultry, or a china, glass or silver bowl of the
exact size may be slipped into the center and filled with the
sauce or dressing to be served with the ring,

Noodle Ring With Creamed Chicken

1 pound noodles Dash of salt and pepper

3 eggs 2 tablespoons catchup

1 cup milk 1 cup grated Cheddar cheese

1/^ tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

Cook noodles and drain. Beat eggs well. Combine with other
ingredients. Add to noodles and pour into buttered ring mold.
Set in pan of hot water and bake in a moderate oven (350° F.)
45 minutes. Unmold carefully onto a large platter and fill the
center with creamed chicken (see page 286). Spaghetti, maca-
roni or rice can be used instead of noodles.

KIDNEY A LA FRANCAISE

1 beef kidney Bit of bay-leaf

Flour ^ Salt and pepper

Fat ^ inch slice of lemon

Soak a beef kidney in cold water for one hour, changing the
water two or three times as it colors; then place on the fire in
cold water and gently heat to the boiling-point. Drain off this

ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 345

water and put on fresh cold water for a second heating. Again
heat and again change the water.

In the third water simmer the kidney for ten minutes. Then
remove it from the fire, and when cool enough to handle,, cut
out the cords and most of the center fat. Slice thin^ dip each
piece in flour and saute in fat until brown.

Remove the meat from the pan, add flour to the fat, stir
well, and brown thoroughly. Add boiling- water, stirring until
a smooth sauce is formed. Return the meat to the pan, add
bay-leaf, salt, pepper and slice of lemon from which the peel
has been removed. Simmer for one hour with the pan covered,
adding more water if it reduces too much. There should be
only enough water to form a rich sauce. Remove the bay-leaf,
and serve on a heated platter.

KIDNEYS EN BROCHETTE

Split the kidneys, put over the fire in cold water and bring
to the boiling-point rapidly. Drain, wipe and slice each half.
Arrange these slices on small metal skewers, alternating with
slices of fat bacon the same size. Broil quickly and serve on
toast, leaving the skewer in.

SWEETBREADS EN BROCHETTE

Prepare the sweetbreads (See Index), cut into pieces about
one inch square and one-half inch thick, season, dip into melted
fat and then into flour and string on small skewers alternately
with thin squares of bacon. Broil, or lay the skewers across
a narrow pan and cook in a hot oven (400° -450° F.).

BRAISED SWEETBREADS A LA PARLOA

3 pairs sweetbreads 1 teaspoon beef extract

1 teaspoon minced carrot 1 bay-leaf

2 teaspoons minced onion 1 sprig parsley

2 tablespoons fat 1 teaspoon lemon-juice

1 tablespoon flour Salt and pepper

1 cup water

I Prepare sweetbreads according to directions (See Index)
and arrange in deep baking-dish. Cook vegetables in fat for
fifteen minutes. Add flour and stir until the mixture becomes
frothy. Add the water gradually, stirring all the time. When

346

this liquid boils, stir in the meat extract and seasonings. Cook
for five minutes and strain over the sweetbreads. Cover the
pan and cook in a moderate oven (350° F.) for one hour, bast-
ing every fifteen minutes with the gravy in the pan. Arrange
the sweetbreads on pieces of toast on a warm dish^ and pour
mushroom sauce around them.

Vegetable Entrees
STUFFED PEPPERS

Preparing Peppers For Stuffing — Cut off the tops of the
peppers or cut them in two lengthwise, and remove the inner
fibers and seeds. Drop into boiling water, remove from the
fire, let stand ten to twelve, minutes, then drain.

Meat Stuffing — No. 1.

6 green peppers Yz cup bread- or cracker-

1 cup cooked meat, chopped crumbs

fine and seasoned Milk or cream

Prepare peppers as directed. Mix the meat with the bread
or cracker-crumbs and moisten with a little milk or cream.
Be sure that it is rather highly seasoned. (The potted meats
that come in cans are excellent for this purpose.) Fill the
peppers with the mixture and serve at once or cover with
buttered crumbs and set in the oven (400° F.) for ten minutes
to brown. Use small vegetables: Lima beans, corn or diced car-
rots, instead of meat.

No. 2.

6 green peppers 1 cup water or stock

Yz onion 1J4 cups moistened bread-

1 Y4 cups cooked meat crumbs

(veal, chicken or ham) Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon fat

Cut a slice from the stem end of each pepper. Remove seeds
and parboil peppers ten minutes. Mix minced cooked meat
with moistened bread-crumbs, add salt, pepper, melted fat and
the onion, grated. Stuff the peppers with this mixture and
stand them in a dripping-pan. Add watc;r or stock. Bake in

ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 347

a moderate oven (350°-375° F.) thirty minutes, basting fre-
quently. Cooked rice may be used instead of the bread-crumbs.

Cheese Stuffing —

6 green peppers 1 tablespoon melted butter

1 cup crumbs or other fat
14 cup chopped cheese Salt

Prepare peppers as directed. Mix the crumbs with the cheese.
Then add the butter or other fat and salt to taste. Fill the
peppers with the mixture and serve with the meat course.

Shrimp Stuffing —

2 cups cooked shrimps, fresh Nutmeg
or canned Celery seed

1 tablespoon butter or other 1 egg

fat ^ cup bread-crumbs

Yz teaspoon mustard 6 green peppers
Pepper

Prepare shrimps as directed (See Index). Cut off the stem
ends or tops of the peppers, and remove the seeds and veins, and
soak the peppers in cold water for one-half hour. Cream the
fat by beating and then also beat into it the seasonings and egg.
Add the crumbs, mixing the ingredients well, and finally stir-
ring in the shrimps. Drain the peppers and fill with the pre-
pared stuflfing. Set them in a pan, open side up and bake in a
moderate oven (350°-375° F.) for thirty minutes.

Sweetbread Stuffing —

1 cup cooked sweetbreads Yz cup brown or white stock
6 peppers (preferably chicken)

2 tablespoons butter or other 2 tablespoons cream

fat Y2 cup button mushrooms

2 tablespoons flour Worcestershire sauce

Crumbs Salt, pepper and paprika

Prepare the sweetbreads (See Index) . Melt fat, add flour, salt
and pepper. Mix smooth, add stock and cream. Cook until
thick. Stir in the sweetbreads and mushrooms, cut into small
pieces, and the> seasoning. Fill prepared peppers, cover with
buttered crumbs and bake for thirty minutes in a moderate

348

oven (350°-375° F.). Mushroom sauce may be poured around
the peppers.

ASPARAGUS TIMBALES

1 bunch asparagus 54 teaspoon salt

1 cup bread-crumbs Few grains of cayenne

y^ cup hot milk 1 Yz tablespoons melted fat

2 eggsi Yz tablespoon onion-juice
1 tablespoon parsley

Wash the asparagus thoroughly; cut the tender parts into
bits one-half inch long, and put into boiling salted water. Boil
rapidly for ten minutes and drain thoroughly. In the mean-
time, cover the bread-crumbs with the hot milk. When the
crumbs are soft, add the eggs, and mix well together. Stir in
salt, cayenne, melted fat and onion- juice; then stir in asparagus
tips, carefully. Grease small timbale, molds, sprinkle them with
minced parsley and fill two-thirds full. Set in a baking-pan
that contains boiling water, but do not allow the water to
reach the top of the molds. Cover with a sheet of greased
paper and cook in a slow oven (250°-325° F.) for thirty-five
to forty-five minutes. Invert on a heated platter, garnish with
parsley and serve with a white sauce.

COLD ENTREES
ASPIC JELLY

2 pounds beef Salt and pepper

Yz pound ham or bacon 1 egg-white

Sweet herbs 2 tablespoons lemon-juice

Put the beef into the pot and, if desired, veal or beef bones
also, though they require longer boiling to dissolve the gelatin.
Add the ham or bacon and all the sweet herbs, such as thyme,
basil, parsley and marjoram, and salt and pepper to taste. Boil
for three or four hours; strain and put away to cool. When
cc^d, take off all the fat and sediment. Throw into it the
slightly beaten egg-white, and the lemon-juice, place again
on the fire, boil for a few minutes and strain through a jelly-
bag.

This is used for molding cold meat.

ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 349

MINCED HAM IN CIDER CUPS

1 cup boiled ham 54 cup celery

3 hard-cooked eggs 2 tablespoons gelatin

J/2 teaspoon salt 2 cups cider

Pepper Yz cup sugar

54 teaspoon cayenne pepper Yz cup cold water

3 tablespoons lemon-juice 1 cup whipped cream

Soak gelatin in cold water, and pour over it boiling cider to
which the sugar and lemon have bee^i added. Strain into border
molds. When firm, remove from the molds and fill with the
mixture made of the other ingredients and serve immediately.

BRAISED TONGUE WITH ASPIC JELLY

1 beef tongue 1 blade of mace

2 onions 1 bunch thyme
1 stalk celery « 1 bunch parsley

4 cloves 1 box gelatin
Salt and pepper 1 cup cold water

1 teaspoon sugar

"Wash and scrub the tongue well in salt water and simmer
(180° -2 10° F.) it until tender. Remove thej skin, and place
the tongue in a stew-pan with onion, celery, cloves, salt and
pepper. Cover it with the liquor in which it was boiled and
add sugar, mace, thyme and parsley. Simmer for two hours.
Take out the tongue. Add to the liquor gelatin, soaked in the
cold water, boil for two minutes, stirring constantly, strain and
pour over the tongue. Serve cold.

CHAUD FROID OF EGGS

6 hard-cooked eggs Paprika

2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons chopped olives
Chaud-froid sauce or pickles

Salt and pepper

Cook eggs hard and cut in halves lengthwise. Remove yolks
and mash to a paste with the melted butter, pepper, salt, pap-
rika, and chopped olives or pickles. Refill whites and mask
with chaud-froid sauce. Garnish each with a star cut from a
truffle or from a gree;i or red pepper. Let stand in a cold place
till firm. These may be served at luncheon or supper.

350

CHICKEN MOUSSE

2 cups ground cooked chick- % cup heavy cream,

en whipped

14 cup salad dressing Salt, pepper

2 tablespoons lemon juice 1^ tablespoons gelatin

% teaspoon ground celery Lettuce

seed Brussels sprouts, carrots and
1^ cup cold chicken stock parsley

Blend the chicken, salad dressing, lemon juice and celery
seed. Fold in the whipped cream. Season to taste. Fold in the
gelatin which has been softened in the cold chicken stock, dis-
solved over hot water, then cooled. Pour into a ring mold and
chill until firm. Unmold, fill the center with Brussels sprouts
and garnish the platter with carrots and parsley.

HAM MOUSSE

Follow the directions for chicken mousse, substituting cooked
ham for the cooked chicken. Chopped mushrooms are a deli-
cious addition to this dish, and mushrooms may be mixed with
the sauce when ready to serve, and also may be used as
decorations.

SALMON MOLD PIQUANTE

1 tablespoon gelatin % cup milk

% cup cold water ly^ tablespoons melted
11/2 teaspoons salt butter

iy2 teaspoons mustard 4 tablespoons lemon juice

Dash cayenne 1 cup flaked salmon

2 egg yolks, slightly beaten Lettuce

Soften gelatin in cold water 5 minutes. Combine seasonings,
egg yolks and milk in top of double boiler, and cook over hot
water 6 to 8 minutes or until thickened, stirring constantly.
Add butter, lemon juice and gelatin, stirring until gelatin is
dissolved. Remove from fire and fold in salmon. Turn into fish
mold; chill until firm. Unmold on bed of crisp lettuce and
serve with cucumber cream dressing.

VEGETARIAN DISHES

VEGETARIAN dishes make agreeable variations in the diet,
and frequently reduce the food bill. They are welcome
in any household where the program of using meat only once
a day is being followed. Dishes containing a large percentage
of milk, eggs or cheese, together with dried legumes, nuts or
gelatin, are nutritious and typical vegetarian dishes.

People not accustomed to meatless menus may experience
an unsatisfied feeling at the end of a meal that is entirely
vegetarian. This is largely due to the fact that meat is a highly
flavored food. The housewife will do well, therefore, to offer
some well-seasoned dish in a vegetarian menu.

A ring mold is a decorative way of serving vegetarian dishes
with no extra labor. The following recipes calling for a loaf
form may be used for the ring mold. See page 344.

CHESTNUT CROQUETTES

2 cups hot mashed chestnuts Few drops of onion-juice or
4 tablespoons fat 2 tablespoons minced onion

2 eggs Egg and crumbs
Salt and pepper

Mix the chestnuts, fat, slightly beaten eggs and seasonings.
Shape into croquettes. Roll in crumbs, then in beaten tgg and
again in crumbs. Fry in deep hot fat (375° -3 90° F.) until
crumbs are brown (2-5 minutes).

This dish offers adequate protein and iron and a compara-
tively highly seasoned dish. The croquettes may be served
with brown sauce or tomato sauce.

PEANUT BALLS

1 tablespoon fat Pepper

2 tablespoons flour 2 cups cooked rice

Yz cup milk 54 c^P ground peanuts

Yz teaspoon salt 1 egg

Make white sauce from fat, flour, milk and seasoning. Mix
rice, peanuts, white sauce and beaten egg, and shape into small

351

352

balls. Saute in a greased frying-pan turning frequently so that
the balls are browned all over. Or, roll in beaten Qgg, then in
crumbs and fry in deep fat (375°-390° F.).

This dish is low in both iron and protein, therefore milk,
eggs or cheese should appear elsewhere in the menu. These
balls are good served with cheese sauce.

PEANUT SCRAPPLE

1 cup hot milk 1 ^4 teaspoons salt

1 quart boiling water Yg teaspoon paprika

1 cup yellow corn-meal 1 Yz cups chopped peanuts

^ cup hominy grits ^ to 1 cup grated cheese

Combine hot milk and boiling water, bring to boiling-point
and add corn-meal, hominy grits and seasoning. Stir constantly
until the liquid is thickened by the cere;al. Place in a double
boiler and cook one hour. Ten minutes before taking up, add
the peanuts and cheese.

Place in a deep rectangular bread-pan and allow it to cool.
When ready to use, cut in small slices (roll in egg and crumbs
if desired) and fry in deep fat (375° -3 90° F.) until brown
(2-5 minutes) ; or place in a greased baking-pan, sprinkle with
grated cheese mixed with bread-crumbs and bake in a moderate
oven (3 50° -400° F.) until brown.

This makes an excellent luncheon or supper dish.

PEANUT BUTTER CUTLETS

1 Yz cups peanut butter Pepper

1 /4 cups hot milk 6 half -inch slices of bread

1 teaspoon salt

Mix peanut butter with hot milk and seasoning, mixing to-
gether thoroughly. Dip slices of bread into the peanut-butter
mixture. Saute in hot fat. Garnish with pickles and olives.

This dish offers both adequate protein and iron.

BAKED PEANUTS

4 cups shelled raw peanuts 4 tablespoons salad oil

Cover peanuts with cold water and soak over night. In the
morning, place them over the fire, and boil ten minutes. Re-

VEGETARIAN DISHES 353

move from water and dry. Add oil and mix well. Place the
mixture in a greased baking-dish and bake (400° F.) until the
peanuts are soft and well browned.

If extra seasoning is desired, a small quantity of catchup,
salt, molasses and mustard may be added during the baking,
as for baked beans.

PEANUT SOUFFLE

1 tablespoon fat Few drops lemon-juice

6 tablespoons flour 1 ^ cups scalded mlik

^ cup peanut butter 4 eggs
lYz teaspoons salt

Melt the fat and add the flour, peanut butter and seasoning.
Cook for three minutes, stirring constantly. Add scalded milk,
and continue cooking until the mixture reaches the boiling-
point. Remove from the fire, pour the, hot mixture over the
well-beaten egg-yolks, mixing thoroughly. Cool, and fold in
the egg-whites that have been beaten until stiff and dry. When
the ingredients are thoroughly combined, place in a ring mold,
set in a pan of water in a slow oven (375° F.) and bake thirty
minutes. Serve immediately.

This is a hearty main dish, but, because of its texture, should
have something crisp or solid served with it.

MOCK SAUSAGE

1 cup dried Lima beans or 3 eggs

3 cups cooked beans of 2 tablespoons fat

any kind Yz teaspoon sage

Yi cup bread-crumbs Salt and pepper

Pick over and wash beans, cover with water and let soak over
night. Drain, cook in boiling salted water until tender, then
force through a strainer. Add remaining ingredients, shape
into the form of sausages, roll in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again.
Saute until brown. Serve with tomato sauce.

This recipe makes six to eight sausages, three inches long and
thre^e-fourths of an inch thick. It should be accompanied by
some milk, egg or cheese dish.

354

PEANUT CHOPS

6 half -inch slices rye bread Yz teaspoon salt

1 cup peanut butter Yg teaspoon paprika
^ cup top milk Cracker-crumbs

2 eggs

Cut crust from bread and divide in lengthwise strips. Spread
peanut butter on both sides of each strip. Add milk and season-
ing to the eggs and beat thoroughly. Dip strips of bread into
the mixture, remove and dip into sifted cracker-crumbs. Put
into a greased bread -pan and bake in a hot oven (400° -450°
F.) imtil golden brown. This is a good main dish.

BAKED COW PEAS

2 cups cooked cow peas 1 chopped onion

or split peas Yz cup bread-crumbs

2 cups boiled rice Salt, pepper, and butter
2 cups stewed tomatoes

Put the cooked peas, rice,, tomatoes and onion in layers in a
greased baking-dish. Season well, cover with bread-crumbs and
bake (400°) until brown. Serve with brown sauce.

This needs eggs, milk or cheese to accompany it, but it has
excellent flavor.

BEAN ROAST

1 cup roasted shelled peanuts Y4 cup milk

2 cups seasoned mashed 1 egg
potatoes 1 teaspoon salt

2 cups cooked Lima beans, Ys teaspoon paprika

fresh or canned 1 teaspoon onion-juice

Grind the peanuts, using the finest blade of the food-chopper.
In a greased baking-dish place a layer of potatoes, a layer of
beans and a layer of peanuts. Continue making layers until all
the ingredients are used. Blend milk with well-beaten egg and
se,asoning and pour over the t(>p. Bake in a moderate oven
(3 50° -400° F.) until brown. Serve with brown sauce or
tomato sauce.

VEGETARIAN DISHES 355

VEGETABLE LUNCHEON

1 poxind kidney beans 2 cups cooked tomatoes, fresh

1 cup diced carrot or canned

1 green pepper, chopped Vz cup rice

1 large onion Yi dozen large mushrooms

Soak the beans in cold water overnight; drain and cook in
boiling water slowly for about four hours. A ham-bone or a
piece of bacon cooked with them adds to the flavor. Drain, add
carrot, pepper, tomatoes, and thin slices of onion. Simmer until
tender. Boil rice separately in salted water, drain and add to
the vegetables. (The rice water should be used in soups or
gravies.) Garnish with sauteed green peppers and mushrooms.

CELERY, NUT AND POTATO LOAF

2 large stalks celery 1 e^^

y^. cup chopped nuts 1 teaspoon salt

3 cups mashed potatoes Y^ teaspoon paprika

3 tablespoons fat 2 teaspoons grated onion

Wash, cut in small pieces and cook the celery until tender
in a small amount of boiling salted water. Drain off liquid.
(This may be used for soup stock later.) Then add the other
ingredients to the celery in the order in which they are given.
Combine them carefully, pack in a loaf in a greased bread-
pan, and bake in a moderate oven (3 50° -400° F.) for thirty-
five minutes. Serve with tomato sauce.

CARROT LOAF OR RING

2 cups ground carrot 2 cups strained tomatoes

2 cups bread-crumbs 1 teaspoon salt

y^ cup chopped nuts Y& teaspoon pepper

3 eggs 2 teaspoons minced onion

Mix the. ingredients in the order given. Shape the mixture
into a loaf and put into a greased baking-pan. Steam the loaf
for one hour and then brown it in the oven (400° F.) . Or pour
into greased ring mold, set in pan of hot water and bake ia
moderate oven (350° F.) until firm — about 40 minutes. Un-
mold on a hot plate; fill center with hot cooked peas.

356

PEANUT AND CARROT LOAF

1 cup chopped carrots 1 Yz tablespoons fat

1 cup coarse ground peanuts 4 eggs, slightly beaten

1 cup strained tomatoes 1 teaspoon chopped parsley

1 cup crumbs Salt

Chop separately the carrots and peanuts, or put them through
the food-chopper, using the coarse knife. Add the other in-
gredients and form in a loaf. Place in a greased pan and bake
one hour and a quarter in a moderate oven (3 50°-400° F.).

NUT LOAF

2 cups soft bread-crumbs 2 eggs

1 cup milk 1 teaspoon salt

2 cups chopped nut-meats 1 teaspoon paprika

Soak bread-crumbs in milk, add nuts, slightly beaten eggs and
seasonings. Turn into greased bread-pan, set into pan of water
and bake (350° F.) forty minutes. Serve with tomato sauce.
The loaf may be steamed instead of baked.

PEANUT ROAST

1 tablespoon chopped onion 1 cup bread-crumbs

1 tablespoon chopped celery 1 cup green pea pulp, fresh or

2 tablespoons fat canned

Yz cup hot water Juice of half a lemon

1 Y2 cups chopped peanuts 1 teaspoon salt

1 t^^ Dash of pepper

Cook onion and cejery in fat until golden brown. Add hot
water and simmer until vegetables are tender. Mix other in-
gredients, adding the t^g last. Combine the mixture with the
cele^ry and onion mixture. Pack into greased baking-dish and
bake (350° F.) until golden brown. Serve with cream sauce.

BOSTON ROAST

154 cups dry kidney beans 2 tablespoons chopped onion

3 tablespoons salt 1 cup bread-crumbs
1 to 2 cups grated cheese Y2 cup milk

Soak beans twenty-four hours. Cook until soft in water in
which the salt has been dissolved. Drain; chop; add onion.

VEGETARIAN DISHES 357

cheese, crumbs, more salt if needed, and enough milk to moisten.
Form into a loaf . Bake in a moderate oven (3 50° -400° F.) for
forty minutes. Baste occasionally with hot water and fat.

BAKED BEAN ROAST

2 tablespoons minced peppers 2 cups crumbs

2 tablespoons minced onion 1 cup tomatoes

4 tablespoons fat Salt and pepper

4 cups mashed baked beans Yz teaspoon paprika
2 eggs, slightly beaten

Cook pepper and onion in fat. Add other ingredients in the
order given. Bake (350° F. ) in greased baking-dish for thirty
minutes. Serve with brown sauce or tomato sauce.

A cheese or milk dish should be added to this meal.

LIMA BEAN LOAF

2 cups Lima beans 1 tablespoon poultry seasoning

1 cup dry bread-crumbs 2 tablespoons grated onion

4 tablespoons peanut butter 1 tablespoon bacon fat

Yz teaspoon pepper 1 cup milk (more, if needed)

"Wash and soak the beans overnight, then cook in boiling
water until soft (about forty-five minutCis). Drain, cool, then
chop coarsely. Add crumbs mixed with peanut butter and
seasoning, then fat, and milk to moisten. Put into a greased
bread-pan and bake in a moderate oven (350°-400° F.) thirty
minutes. Serve with brown sauce, cream sauce or tomato
sauce.

COTTAGE CHEESE AND PEANUT LOAF

Yz cup peanuts Y2 teaspoon salt

1 cup cottage cheese Dash of pepper

1 cup cold, cooked rolled oats 1 teaspoon poultry seasoning

1 cup milk Few drops "Worcestershire

1 egg^ slightly beaten sauce

1 tablespoon fat 1 tablespoon chopped onion

Chop peanuts and add other ingredients in order given.
"When thoroughly combined, place in a greased bread-tin. Bake
in a moderate oven (3 50° -400° F.) until brown. Serve hot
with tomato sauce.

358

NUT AND CHEESE LOAF

1 tablespoon chopped onion 1 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon fat ^ teaspoon paprika

1 cup grated cheese lYz tablespoons lemon-juice

1 cup chopped nuts Yz teaspoon Worcestershire

^ cup milk sauce

1 cup cooked cereal Buttered crumbs

1 teaspoon salt

Cook onion in fat until delicately brown. Mix with all the
other ingredients and moisten with milk. Cover with buttered
crumbs and brown in oven (400° F.). Serve hot with tomato
sauce.

Serve with some crispy food such as celery.

CHEESE MACARONI LOAF

^ cup macaroni ^ cup grated cheese

1 teaspoon parsley 1 Yz cups milk

2 teaspoons chopped onion 1 egg

1 tablespoon green pepper 1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons fat Yz cup buttered crumbs

Cook macaroni in boiling salted water until tender. Saute
the parsley, onion and pepper in the fat until tender. Drain
water from macaroni. Place a layer of this in a buttered bak-
ing-dish, then a layer of peppers, onions and cheese. Repeat
until dish is full. Pour over it the milk mixed with the egg.
Cover with buttered crumbs, and brown in oven (400° F.).
Serve with tomato sauce.

VEGETABLE LOAF

Yz cup cooked green peas 1 cup soft bread-crumbs

Yz cup cooked green string Yz teaspoon salt

beans Ys teaspoon pepper

Yz cup chopped boiled carrots Yz teaspoon paprika

1 Yz cups milk 1 egg

Press peas through a sieve, cut beans in small pieces, then
combine all vegetables. Add to them the milk, slightly beaten
egg, crumbs and seasoning. Turn into a greased baking-dish
and bake in a moderate oven (3 50° -400° F.) until firm.

VEGETARIAN DISHES 359

PEA TIMBALES

1 1/2 cups pea pulp 3 eggs, well beaten

2 tablespoons melted butter Salt and pepper

Blend the ingredients well together, pour into greased molds;
set the molds into a pan containing hot water and bake (250*-
325° F.). Serve with medium white sauce.

CHILI CON CARNE

y^ cup olive oil 2 cloves garlic

2 pounds lean beef (cut in 1 tablespoon paprika
%-inch cubes) 2 teaspoons oregano

y^ pound beef suet (cut in Salt and pepper

%-inch cubes) 1 or 2 cups hot water

1 cup minced onions 2 tablespoons chili powder

Heat the olive oil, add the meat and suet and cook until meat
is brown. Add onions and garlic and cook about 5 minutes,
stirring constantly; then stir in the chili powder, paprika,
oregano, salt and pepper. Add 1 cup water and simmer until
meat is tender. Add more water if necessary.

With Beans — Serve chili with baked beans, rice or Lima
beans; or add 4 cups red kidney beans to the meat before sim-
mering.

AZTEC BAKED BEANS

3 cups cooked red beans % teaspoon mustard
114 cups canned tomatoes Dash pepper

1 pimiento minced y ^e^spoon curry powder

y^ cup deviled ham . 7 , lA 1

1/4 cup onion, minced l'/2 tablespoons molasses

6 strips Canadian bacon or '^Vi tablespoons sugar

corned beef 54 teaspoon salt

Mix all ingredients except meat; turn into greased casserole,
arrange meat on top and bake in 350° F. oven about 30 minutes,
or until smoked meat is crisp.

EGG DISHES

TO test an egg for freshness, place it in a glass of water. If
the egg falls to the bottom of the glass and lies on its side,
it is a fresh egg; if the large end rises slightly, the egg is
somewhat stale; if it stands on end or floats, it is very stale.
The shell of a fresh egg has a bloom; that of a stale egg is usually
shiny. If the contents of an egg rattle when it is shaken, it is
not fresh.

EGGS COOKED IN THE SHELL

Hard-cooked (Coddled) — Place the eggs in a saucepan of
cold water and heat slowly until the boiling-point is reached.
Set the container on the back of the stove or reduce the heat so
that the water will not boil again and let stand twenty to thirty
minutes before removing the eggs. Another method of regulat-
ing the 'temperature is to cook them in the double boiler.

Soft-cooked (Coddled) — Use one pint water for each egg
up to six eggs, one-half pint for each additional egg, and use a
small deep saucepan so that the water will cover the eggs. Bring
the water to the boiling-point in a vessel that can be covered
closely. Put the eggs in at once, cover, set off the fire and let
stand in a warm place for four to six minutes, depending on con-
sistency desired. In this way, the eggs will be cooked equally
well in every part.

POACHED OR DROPPED EGGS

No. 1 — Heat salted water to the boiling-point in a frying-pan
or other shallow pan. Break an egg into a saucer, then slip it
gently into the water. Repeat until all the eggs are in. Re-
move the pan from the fire, cover and keep hot until the eggs
are set to the desired degree. If the yolk is not entirely covered,
dip the water over it carefully until it is coated with white. Re-
move with a skimmer or perforated ladle and slip on to a thin
piece of buttered toast. Buttered muffin rings may be placed
in thei water and each egg slipped into a muflSn ring for cookingj^
or an egg-poacher may be used.

360

EGG DISHES 361

Poached eggs are often placed in clear soup, one egg being
prepared for each person to be served. They are served also on
thin slices of boiled ham, on mounds of corned-beef hash, on
Welsh rabbit or on cooked spinach.

No. 2 — Separate the yolk and white. Beat the white until
stiff and put it in a glass ramekin. Drop the yolk in the center
of the beaten white. Set the ramekin in hot water until the
egg sets. Garnish with a bit of butter and sprinkle with salt
and pepper. Serve in the ramekin.

FRIED EGGS

No. 1 — Heat cooking-fat in a frying-pan and slip in the
eggs. Cook as many eggs at one time as will fill the pan with-
out touching one another. Baste with some of the fat, to cook
the yolk. Cook slowly, for if the fat becomes very hot the eggs
will be tough and hard to digest but if the temperature of the
fat is kept down, the egg may be made as delicate as if poached
in water.

Eggs may be fried very successfully by covering the pan as
soon as the eggs have been added, and then placing it in the
oven or over a very slow fire, so that the eggs will cook very
slowly.

No. 2 — ^With Brown Butter —

6 eggs Salt and pepper

3 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon vinegar

Saute the eggs in one tablespoon butter until set, season with
salt and pepper, and place on a platter. Brown two tablespoons
butter in the pan, add one teaspoon vinegar, and when hot, pour
over the eggs.

BAKED EGGS

No. 1 — Use individual baking-dishes and melt one teaspoon
of butter in each dish. Break thei eggs into the dishes, allow-
ing one or two eggs to a dish. Sprinkle with salt and pepper,
and place a tiny piece of butter on each. Bake in a slow oven
(250°-350° F.) until the eggs are set but not hard. Serve in
the baking-dishes.

No. 2 — Shirred — ^Use small ramekins or egg-shirrers. Grease
each dish, put in a layer of buttered crumbs, break an egg over
the crumbs, season with salt and pepper and cover with buttered

36:

crumbs. Bake in a slow oven (250°-350° F.) until the eggs
are set and the crumbs brown. Serve in the ramekins.

No. 3 — On Toast — Moisten the edges of the toast with hot
water and spread with butter. Separate the yolks and whites
of the eggs. Poach the yolks in salted water until soft cooked,
and place one on each slice of toast, being careful not to break
it. Beat the whites very stiff, spread around the yolks, season
with salt and pepper, and brown in the oven (350° F.).

No. 4 — In Tomato Sauce — Grease, small ramekins and place
two tablespoons thick tomato sauce in each. Slip a poached egg
into each dish, cover with grated cheese, season with salt and
pepper, and bake in a very hot ovejn (450°-500° F.) two or
three minutes, to brown the cheese.

No. 5 — In Bacon Rings — Curl long slices of bacon around
the inside of muflfin-cups or small ramekins. Break an egg in-
side each bacon-ring, season with salt and pepper and bake
(350° F. ) until set, but not hard. Remove carefully from the
dish so that the egg will remain fastened to the bacon. Ar-
range on a platter and garnish with parsley.

No. 6 — ^WiTH Bacon Strips — ^Fry the bacon very crisp, but
not hard, then arrange the slices in groups of two on a large
plate or in individual baking-dishes. Break one egg over each
two slices of bacon, season with salt and pepper and bake slowly
(300° F.) until set, but not hard.

BATTERED OR SCRAMBLED EGGS

No. 1 — In a frying-pan, place one teaspoon of butter for each
egg. Beat the eggs until the whites and yolks are well mixed.
Season with salt and pepper and add one to three tablespoons
of milk or cream for each egg. Pour into the hot fat and
cook slowly, stirring constantly until the eggs are of the de-
sired consistency. Serve at once. A little onion -juice or
chopped parsley may be added to the eggs, if desired.

No. 2 — With Green Peppers —

8 eggs 2 sweet peppers

3 tablespoons cream 3 tablespoons fat

Salt and pepper

Beat the eggs slightly, adding the cream, salt and pepper.
Heat the fat and add the eggs. As the eggs begin to cook, add

EGG DISHES 363

the) chopped pepper, from which the seeds have been removed.
Cook slowly, stirring constantly, until the mass is creamy. Serve
with toast points.

One-fourth cup of chopped canned pimientos may be sub-
stituted for the pepper. It is often desirable to soften fresh
peppers by placing in hot water for five minutes.

Eggs scrambled in the top of a double boiler will be more
creamy than those cooked in a frying-pan.

PLAIN OMELET

Puffy —

4 eggs Salt and pepper

4 tablespoons hot water Butter or other fat

Beat the egg-whites until stiflf. Beat the yolks until thick
and lemon-colored, beat into them the hot water and add salt
and pepper. Cut and fold together the; yolks and stiffly beaten
whites. Melt enough fat in an omelet-pan to grease the bottom
and sides of the pan. Turn the egg mixture into the pan and
cook ove,r a slow fire until it is puflFy and a light brown under-
neath, then place in the oven until the top is dry. Touch the
top of the omelet lightly with the finger and if the egg does
not stick to the finger the omelet is done. Do not overcook
it or it will shrink or be tough.

Loosen the edges of the omelet, cut through the center, slip
a spatula or flexible knife under the side next to the handle of
the pan, fold one-half over the other and press slightly to make
it stay in place, slip on to a hot plate and serve at once.

French —

6 eggs 2 tablespoons fat

Salt and pepper

Beat the eggs just enough to mix the whites and yolks, and
add salt and pepper. Heat the fat in an omelet-pan, pour a
little of it into the beaten eggs and allow the remainder to get
hot. Turn the eggs into the pan and as the mixture cooks on
the bottom and sides, prick it with a fork so that the egg on
top will pene.trate the cooked surface, and run under the sides.
The work must be done quickly and carefully so that the eggs
are not all stirred up like scrambled eggs. While the eggs are
still soft, but slightly thickened, fold ove;r, let stand a few
minutes to brown, and turn on to a hot dish.

FOR THE HOLIDAY BREAKFAST,
SLIP YOUR POACHED EGG INTO
A BREAD CROUSTADE THAT
HAS BEEN HALF-FILLED WITH
CHEESE SAUCE, OR DO A FLUFFY
OMELET WITH MUSHROOMS
AND ASPARAGUS

::^^^^P^

BEAUTY IS NOT ONLY
IN THE EYE OF THE
BEHOLDER WHEN
THESE EGGS REACH
THE BREAKFAST TABL|
—Institute Amerlcai*^
Poultry Industries I

IN ANOTHER FEW MINUTES
YOU CAN NAVE FLUFFY EGGS
TO SERVE^WITH THE lACQH
THAT IS BROILED FLAT RE-
,TWEEN RACKS •:.; I %ii^,. ^ .;:!%i'

3^4

VARIATIONS OF PLAIN OMELET

Variations of the plain puffy omelet or the plain French
omelet may be made by adding any of the following ingredients
to the omelet before it is put into the pan to cook, or by
spreading one of them on top just before the omelet is folded.
Allow one tablespoon of mixture to each two eggs used.

Aux Fines Herbes — ^This favorite French omelet is made
by adding a mixture of parsley, thyme and sweet marjoram
to a plain omelet.

Cheese — Scatter grated or ground cheese over the center of
the omelet while it is cooking.

Fish — Use any cooked fish. Chop it fine, season with salt
and pepper and moisten with a little cream. Spread on the
omelet before folding.

Ham or Other Meat — Scatter minced cooked meat over the
center of the omelet while it is cooking. The meat may be
browned in a small amount of fat before it is added.

Jardiniere — Stir into the beaten eggs, before cooking, a
mixture of chopped parsley, onion, chives, shallots, and a few
leaves each of sorrel and chervil, minced.

Jelly — Spread any jelly or jam over the omelet just before
folding.

Onion — ^Mix one tablespoon chopped onion and one teaspoon
choppe,d parsley. Add to the omelet mixture before cooking.

Parsley — Scatter minced parsley over the center of the
omelet while it is cooking.

Vegetable — ^Use cooked left-over vegetables, onq vegetable
alone or two in combination. Mash the vegetable through a
sieve, moisten with a little milk, cream or gravy, and season
with salt and pepper. Lightly spread the mixture over the
omelet before folding.

CHICKEN OR TONGUE OMELET

1 cup chicken or tongue 1 cup cream or milk

2 tablespoons fat Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons flour Plain omelet

Chop the meat until it is very fine. Make a sauce of the
fat, flour, and milk or cream. Add salt and pepper and chopped
meat. Make a plain omelet and spread the meat mixture on it
jutt before folding.

EGG DISHES 365

MUSHROOM OMELET

1 cup mushrooms ^ teaspoon pepper

1 tablespoon fat 1 tablespoon flour

Yz cup milk or cream Plain omelet
1 teaspoon salt

Use fresh or canned mushrooms cut into bits. Melt the fat
in a saucepan, add the mushrooms, the milk or cream, salt,
pepper and flour which has been mixed to a paste with a little
cold milk. Cook for five minutes, then set aside until the
omelet is made. Spread the mushroom mixture over the omelet
just before folding.

MUSHROOM AND TOMATO OMELET

3 cups tomatoes Salt and pepper

1 cup mushrooms 6 eggs

2 tablespoons chopped onion Yz cup milk
2 teaspoons sugar

Strain the tomato, add the onion, sugar, salt and pepper and
cook several minutes, then add the mushrooms, sliced very thin.
Make a plain omelet of the eggs and milk. Pour part of the
sauce over the omelet just before folding; fold; place on a hot
plate; pour the remainder of the sauce around it and serve.

OYSTER OMELET

12 oysters 1 cup cream

Yz tablespoon flour 6 eggs

2 tablespoons fat Salt and pepper

Chop the oysters. Make a sauce of the flour, fat, and cream.
Add the well beaten eggs, season with salt and pepper, stir in
the oysters and cook as a plain omelet.

POTATO OMELET

4 cold boiled potatoes Y& teaspoon pepper

3 tablespoons bacon fat 2 eggs

Yz tablespoon salt 2 tablespoons milk

Cut thei potatoes into tiny cubes and cook in the bacon fat
with the seasonings for five minutes. Beat the eggs slightly
and add the milk, then pour over the potatoes. Cook slowly
until set, fold, and turn on to a hot plate.

366

BAKED CREAMY OMELETS

2 slices bread Salt and pepper

1 cup milk Chopped onion

6 eggs

Crumble the bread and allow it to soak in the milk while the
eggs are being prepared. Beat the eggs until light, add season-
ings and then the bread and milk mixture. Bake quickly
(360° F.) in a well-greased shallow pan and when done roll as
you would a jelly-roll.

LITTLE OMELETS

6 eggs 1/4 teaspoon pepper

Yz teaspoon salt 1 cup milk

The following is an excellent method of making an omelet
when different members of the family come irregularly to
breakfast, as the mixture^ will be perfectly satisfactory after it
has stood for some time, provided it is again beaten thoroughly
just before cooking.

Beat the eggs until light and foamy, then add the other in-
gredients. Fry a small amount at a time on a hot frying-pan
or pancake-griddle that has been well greased. When done^
roll each omelet quickly, like a French pancake, and serve.

SPANISH OMELET

1 medium-sized tomato Olives

1 small green pepper Mushrooms

y2 onion Salt and pepper

2 sprigs parsley 4 eggs
1 stalk celery

Peel the tomato, add the pepper, onion, parsley, celery, olives,
mushrooms, and chop all together in a chopping-bowl. Place
the mixture in a saucepan, add seasonings and stew for two or
three minutes. Beat the eggs, put them in the omelet-pan andy
as soon as they begin to cook, add the chopped vegetables.
Finish as for plain omelet.

EGG DISHES 3^7

TOMATO OMELET

3 tomatoes 4 to 6 eggs

2 tablespoons fat Seasoning

Peel tomatoes, remove the seeds and cut into dice. Saute in
the fat until tender. Make the omelet in the usual way, first
stirring the tomato into the beaten egg,

CUBAN EGGS

6 eggs Yz teaspoon salt

^ cup sausage meat Pepper

1 teaspoon chopped onion

Cook the meat and onion together for £.Ye minutes. Beat the
eggs until light, add the seasonings, and pour into the pan with
the meat. Cook slowly, stirring constantly, until the eggs are
thick and creamy. Serve with buttered toast or poured over
slices of toast.

EGGS A LA CARACAS

1 tablespoon fat Salt and pepper

^ pound dried beef 4 eggs

1 tablespocm grated cheese Onion-juice

1 cup tomatoes

Melt the fat in a frying-pan and, when hot, add the dried
beef and cheese. Toss lightly until the beef is slightly frizzled,
add the tomatoes, the seasonings, and the eggs beaten until
light. Stir and cook gently until of a creamy consistency.

EGGS A LA SUISSE

6 eggs 1 cup cream

2 tablespoons butter or other Salt

fat Cayenne

J/2 to 1 cup grated cheese

Spread the bottom of a baking-dish with fat. Sprinkle a
layer of grated cheese over it and break the eggs on the cheese,
being careful not to break the yolks. Pour a little cream over
the eggs, then more grated cheese. Season with salt and cayenne,
and bake in a slow oven (250°-350° F.) until the eggs are
set, but not hard. Serve in the baking-dish.

368

BAKED EGGS ESPAGNOLE

6 eggs 4 tablespoons fat

3 tablespoons chopped onion ^ cup bread-crumbs

3 tablespoons chopped green Yz cup grated cheese
pepper

Fry onion and pepper in the fat until slightly brown, then
pour into a baking-dish. Break the eggs into the dish, being
careful not to break the yolks. Mix the crumbs with the cheese
and sprinkle over the eggs. Bake in a slow oven (250°-350°
F.) until the eggs are set, but not hard. Serve in the dish in
which they were baked.

PLANKED EGGS

1 cup minced cooked ham or 6 poached eggs

corned beef Garnish of tomato sKces

1 cup crumbs Green-pepper rings

Cream 1 quart mashed potato

Mix the meat with the crumbs and enough cream to make a
paste. Spread the mixture on a heated plank of suitable size.
Around the edge of the plank make a narrow border of mashed
potato and inside the border make six nests of the potato. Slip
a poached egg into each nest and set in the oven until the potato
turns a delicate brown. Garnish with alternate slices of tomato
and green-pepper rings.

EGGS WITH CODFISH

1 cup salt codfish 2 uncooked eggs

4 tablespoons fat Chopped parsley

2 tablespoons flour 3 hard-cooked eggs
2 cups milk

Cover the fish with cold water and soak overnight. Drain,
flake, and saute with the fat for a few minutes; sprinkle with
the flour; add the milk, and cook until smooth. Stir in the
uncooked eggs, slightly beaten, and cook three minutes more.
Serve on a platter garnished with the chopped parsley and the
hard-cooked eggs cut in quarters.

Two additional tablespoons of flour may be substituted for
the uncooked eggs, if desired. For creamed codfish, omit the
hard-cooked eggs.

EGG DISHES 369

EGGS WITH TOMATOES

1 small onion Y^ teaspoon pepper

2 cups tomatoes 6 eggs
1 teaspoon salt Toast

Cut the onion into small pieces and place with the tomato in
a shallow pan. Stew very slowly for ten minutes. Add salt
and pepper, then reduce the heat until the tomato stops bub-
bling. Break the eggs and slip them on top of the tomato, being
careful not to break the yolks. Cook slowly until the whites
of the eggs are set, then prick the yolks and let them mingle
with the tomato and the whites. The mixture should be quite
soft, but the red tomatoes should be quite distinct. Serve at
once on buttered toast.

SPANISH EGGS

1 slice onion 6 eggs

1 tomato 1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon fat J4 teaspoon pepper

Rub the onion over the inside of a frying-pan. Pare the
tomato and cut it into small pieces. Melt the fat in the fry-
ing-pan, add the tomato and cook for ^yq minutes, stirring it
now and then. Beat the eggs well and add to the tomato, then
add salt and pepper and cook slowly, stirring constantly, until
the eggs thicken like scramble4 eggs. Pour into a hot dish
and serve at once.

APPLE OMELET

5 tart apples Cinnamon or other spice

Yz tablespoon fat 2 eggs

Y2 cup sugar

This is a very delicate dish to serve with broiled spareribs or
roast pork. Cook the apples until very soft, then mash them
and add fat, sugar, eggs and spice. Bake (250^-350° F.) in a
shallow pudding-dish or pie-tin until brown.

DEVILED EGGS

Cold (Picnic Eggs) — Cut hard-cooked eggs in half, either
lengthwise or crosswise. Mash the yolks, season with salt,
pepper, butter, a little mustard and vinegar. Minced potted

370

ham may be added, or the yolks may be mixed with mayonnaise
dressing. Refill the whites with the mixture; press two halves
together, and wrap each egg in a square of waxed paper.

Hot — Omit vinegar, add nuts to the egg mixture, moisten
with evaporated milk and refill whites. Cap with large sauteed
mushrooms. Pack into greased baking dish, caps up, cover with
rich white sauce, then buttered crumbs and brown in 350° oven.

EGG TIMBALES

1 tablespoon fat 3 eggs

1 tablespoon flour Salt and pepper

34 cup scalded milk Cayenne

1 tablespoon chopped parsley Celery salt

Make a white sauce of the fat, flour, and milk, and add the
egg-yolks, slightly beaten. Add all the se;asonings, then fold
in the stiffly beaten egg-whites. Fill greased baking-dishes two-
thirds full of the mixture. Set dishes in a pan of hot water and
poach in a slow oven (250°-350° F.) until firm. Arrange
on a platter and serve with tomato cream sauce.

SAVORY EGGS

6 hot hard-cooked eggs Chopped parsley

Salt and pepper Anchovy paste

^ cup hot cream 6 slices hot buttered toast

1 cup hot thin white sauce

Cut the eggs in two lengthwise and remove the yolks. Mash
the yolks, add seasonings, cream, parsley, anchovy or any de-
sired relish, and refill the whites. Place on slices of toast and
pour the white sauce over them.

EGG FARCI

6 hot hard-cooked eggs 54 teaspoon pepper

Yz teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon butter

lYi cups white, Bechamel, 4 tablespoons milk

curry or tomato sauce Onion-juice

Remove the shells from the eggs and cut them in half cross-
wise, then cut an even slice from the end of each half so that
it will stand up in a pan. Remove the yolks, mash, and add the
salt, pepper, butter, milk and a few drops of onion-juice. Mix
thoroughly and heap into the hollow of the whites. Set in a

EGG DISHES 37i

shallow pan and bake in a slow oven (2 50° -3 50° F.) for about
six minutes, then arrange on a hot dish, and pour over them
any preferred sauce.

EGGS A LA GOLDENROD

6 hard-cooked eggs Salt and pepper

2 cups thin white sauce Paprika

8 slices toast

Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs; chop the
whites very fine, and add to the white sauce, with salt, pepper,
paprika. Arrange six slices of toast on a platter and pour over
them the white sauce mixture. Press the egg-yolks through a
sieve and scatter over the top. Cut the two extra slices of toast
into small triangles, or points, arrange on the platter and garnish
with parsley.

CREAMED EGGS

6 hard-cooked eggs 2 tablespoons flour

2 tablespoons fat 2 cups milk

Yz onion 1 teaspoon salt

6 slices hot buttered toast ^ teaspoon pepper

Remove the shells from the eggs and cut each Qgg into six
pieces. Heat the fat in a frying-pan, and cook the chopped
onion with it for a few minutes until yellow, but not brown.
Remove the onion, make a sauce of the fat, flour, liquid and
seasonings. When it thickens, add the eggs, and when they
are well heated, turn the mixture out on to the buttered toast
and serve at once.

SCALLOPED EGGS

Butter Salt and pepper

6 hard-cooked eggs Milk or cream

Crumbs

Grease a baking-dish and place in it a layer of crumbs, then a
layer of slices of hard-cooked eggs. Dot with bits of butter,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, and add another layer of crumbs.
Repeat in this order until the dish is full, having a layer of
buttered crumbs on top. Pour cream or milk over the whole
until it comes about halfway to the top of the dish, and brown
in a moderate oven (3 50° -400° F.).

372

EGG FRICASSEE

6* hard-cooked eggs 3 tablespoons fat

3 cups stock 3 tablespoons flour

Minced parsley ^ cup cream

Chopped onion Salt and pepper

Cut the eggs in slices. Make a sauce of the stock, fat, flour
and seasonings. Add the sliced eggs, the cream and salt and
pepper. Mix well and serve very hot.

EGGS AU GRATIN

6 hard-cooked eggs 2 cups medium white sauce,
Salt and pepper or tomato sauce or yellow-
Grated cheese sauce
Buttered crumbs

Remove the shells from the eggs and slice them. Arrange
the slices in a greased baking-dish. Season with salt and pepper
and pour the sauce over the top. Sprinkle with grated cheese
and cover with buttered crumbs. Bake in a moderate oven
(350 F.) until the sauce bubbles and the crumbs brown.

EGGS A LA DUCHESSE

1 onion 2 teaspoons chopped parsley

Fat 4 tablespoons grated cheese

1 cup milk Paprika

6 hard-cooked eggs Salt and pepper

2 uncooked egg-yolks lYz tablespoons lemon-juice

Slice the onion and cook it in a very little fat until brown,
then add to it the milk and the eggs cut in halves. Stir over
the fire for three or four minutes, then add the slightly beaten
egg-yolks, the parsley, cheese and seasonings. Stir over hot
water for about eight minutes, add the lemon- juice and serve
very hot.

PICKLED EGGS

24 cloves Yz teaspoon salt

6 hard-cooked eggs Yz teaspoon pepper

2 cups vinegar J/2 teaspoon groimd mustard

Shell the eggs and stick four cloves into each egg. Heat the
vinegar and when boiling add the salt, pepper and mustard

EGG DISHES

373

mixed with a little cold vinegar. Put the eggs in a glass fruit-
jar and pour the boiling vinegar over them. Cover and let
stand two weeks before using. Serve with broiled steak.

FLUFFY EGGS

12-18 strips bacon 1/^ teaspoon salt

6 eggs Yg teaspoon pepper

6 slices toast, square or round 1 cup grated cheese
Butter Paprika

Spread toast with butter and part of grated cheese. Separate
eggs, place whites in mixing bowl and leave each separate yolk
in shell till needed. Season whites and beat until stiff and fluffy.
Heap onto toast and make a dent in center of each. Slip yolk
into center of white, season and sprinkle liberally with cheese.
Bake at 3 50° F. until cheese is browned and eggs are set. Garnish
with paprika; serve with bacon.

EGGS ROMANOFF

Cut a small section from the pointed end of a hard-cooked
egg. Remove yolk, fill with caviar, and replace the cap. Place
on a slice of tomato on shredded lettuce and surround witli
pieces of cold boiled lobster. Serve with Russian dressing, page
449, or Cucumber Cream dressing (below).

EGGS ROBIN HOOD

Split and toast English muffins. Saute circular pieces of boiled
ham and place them on the halves of muffins with slices of
broiled tomato. Arrange on each a poached egg and cover with
cheese sauce.

Cucumber Cream Dressing —

2 tablespoons vinegar 1 cup diced cucumber

2 tablespoons sugar 1 cup heavy cream, whipped

Add vinegar and sugar to cucumbers, fold into cream.

CHEESE

CHEESE has an important place in the dietary, for it keeps
well, it is a concentrated food, and ordinarily it is an
economical one, at least when compared with other animal foods.

One pound of cheese represents the fat and protein of a gallon
of milk. It is one form in which a surplus of milk may be
stored satisfactorily and cheaply.

In spite of this, many persons do not use cheese as frequently
as they should. In large measure, this is because the following
facts about cheese are not generally known:

That cheese is a very concentrated food and therefore should
be eaten in small amounts and should be associated at the same
meal with bulky foods such as fruits and vegetables.

That whole-milk cheese is very rich in fat and therefore other
fats at the meal should be limited in amount.

That cheese is soft in texture and should be associated with
something having tough, "chewy" or crisp texture.

That cheese should take the place of meat or eggs and not be
used merely as an addition to a meal already he^vy with protein
and fat.

Varieties of Cheese

There is a cheese for every taste. The housekeeper should
know the ways in which various kinds of cheese are used and
choose the variety best suited to the need of the moment. The
intensity of flavor desirable in a cheese depends, among other
things, on the food with which it will be served. Roque-
fort, Gorgonzola, Limburger and related types will satisfy many
people better than the milder cheeses. Strong, old Cheddar
cheese may be served with ginger snaps. From the chemist's
standpoint, there is no basis for the statement often made that
the highly flavored cheeses of strong odor have undergone
putrefactive decomposition.

Cheddar, American, or Standard Factory Cheese is the most
common cheese in use. It is a hard cheese and varies greatly in flavor
and texture. It may be white or yellow, old or fresh. A mild cheese
is green and not cured; a strong cheese is old and cured. A Cheddar
cheese should have a smooth texture and be plastic enough to slice

374

CHEESE 375

well. Mold on the outside is no indication of the quality of the
cheese. Cheddar cheese is useful in general cooking. Unless made
into special dishes like cheese wafers, it is not so good to serve with
salads as some cheese of more distinaive flavor. In recipes which
call for cheese, without specifying the kind, Cheddar cheese is the
variety meant.

Long Horn, Young America, Daisy and Flat are Cheddar
cheeses of varying shapes and sizes.

California Jack is the Cheddar cheese of CaUfornia.

Brie is a soft cheese, ripened by molds from the outside. The
cheeses have a red coloration on the surface and vary in size from six
to fifteen inches in diameter and from two to three inches in height.
The largest weighs from five to six pounds. The interior varies in
consistency from waxy to semi-liquid and has a very pronounced odor
and a sharp characteristic taste. The cheese is dipped out of the
container with a spoon. It is used as a dessert with coffee and wafers
or it may be added to salad dressing.

Caciocavallo is a hard Italian cheese shaped something like a
gourd and weighing three to five pounds. It is white in color and
is so hard that it is necessary to grate it. It is served in small dishes
to be sprinkled in soup, spaghetti, etc. It is also added to these
dishes, during the cooking.

Camembert is a soft cheese, ripened by molds from the outside, so
it belongs to the same group as Brie. It has a felt-like rind, one-
sixteenth to one-eighth inch in thickness, composed of molds and
dried cheese. A typical cheese is about four and one-quarter inches
in diameter and three-quarters to one inch in thickness. It is sold
wrapped in paper and enclosed in a wooden box of the same shape.
Well-ripened cheeses vary from nearly fluid to the consistency of
moderately soft butter. It is dipped out of the container with a
spoon. It has a strong odor and flavor and is used in the same way as
Brie. The entire cheese is eaten by those who like a moldy cheese.

Cheshire Is the English Cheddar cheese. It is yellow, grainy,
highly colored and highly salted and often more highly flavored than
American Cheddar. It is used practically in the same ways as Ameri-
can Cheddar cheese.

Cream Cheese. See Neufchatel.

Club Cheese is usually made from strong, well-ripened Cheddar
cheese which is ground and mixed with butter and condiments. It
spreads easily, and therefore is often used in sandwiches.

Edam is a hard cheese. It is put on the market in the form of
red balls, weighing from three to four-and-one-half pounds, wrapped
in tin-foil. Its texture is solid, close and free from pores. It is
rather dry and crumbly. It is mild in flavor and pleasantly saline.

It is usual in this country to cut off a section of the top to serve

(

Z7^

as a lid, and to scoop out the inside as it is needed. It is served with
salads, with crackers, with pie, etc. The cheese may be set in a silver
holder or wrapped in a folded napkin on a plate. It is seldom cooked
but often thrifty housewives, after the greater part of the cheese has
been removed, stuff the hollow shell with cooked and seasoned maca-
roni, rice, or something similar and bake it. Edam cheese may be used
in rarebit.

GoRGONZOLA is a semi-hard cheese, resembling Roquefort in that it
is streaked throughout with a blue-green mold. The surface is
heavily coated with a substance resembling clay. The cheeses are
cylindrical in shape, about twelve inches in diameter and six inches
in height. It may be crumbly or waxy in texture, and has a flavor
resembling that of Roquefort. It is usually served uncooked as des-
sert, with wafers and coffee, or in salads, or it may be added to the
salad dressing.

LiEDERKRANZ is a Small Limburger cheese.

LiMBURGER is a hard cheese. It is wrapped in waxed paper and then
in tin-foil. Each cheese weighs about two pounds. It has a very
strong and characteristic odor and taste. The odor, which is disagree-
able to some people, may be decreased by removing the rind and ex-
posing the cheese to the air before bringing it to the table. Because of
its strong flavor, it is always served uncooked, in sandwiches, with pie,
or with wafers and coffee.

Neufchatel and cream cheese are very similar, Neufchatei being
made from milk containing four per cent, fat and cream cheese from
milk containing six per cent. fat. Neufchatel cheese has a clean,
sour-milk or lactic-acid flavor. In texture, it is smooth and free from
holes. It is served with crackers or in salads and in sandwiches.

Parmesan is a hard cheese, known in Italy as "Grana" because of
its granular appearance when broken. The hardness of the cheese
makes cutting it practically impossible. It has small holes or eyes.
It is used in cooking, principally. It is grated and added to soup,
macaroni, spaghetti and similar dishes.

PiMiENTO Cheese is a cream, Neufchatel or ground Cheddar
cheese to which pimientos have been added. It is used chiefly for
sandwiches.

Pineapple Cheese is an old, very hard Cheddar cheese. It gets
its name from its shape. It is bright yellow and vanished on
the surface. It is so hard that it is necessary to grate it. It has a
stronger flavor than ordinary Cheddar cheese but is used in practically
the same way.

Provolona is a very hard Italian cheese resembling Caclocavallo,
the main difference being in the shape. It is used in the same way.

Roquefort is a semi-hard cheese made from goat's milk. It is
ripened by a green mold which gives it a mottled appearance through-

CHEESE 377

out. It is found on the market In cylindrical form about seven and
one-quarter Inches in diameter and three and one-quarter inches thick,
also In rectangular form and In small wedge-shaped portions. The
pieces are without a definite rind and are wrapped in tin-foil. They
must be kept cold. Roquefort has a strong odor and taste and is best
served with highly flavored foods. It may be served in salads or with
wafers and coffee.

RicoTTE Is a very hard Italian cheese. It is similar to Caclocavallo
and Provolona, except in shape and in being made from albumen whey
instead of milk, and Is served the same way.

Stilton Is a semi-hard cheese having a very characteristic wrinkled
or ridged skin or ring. When cut, It shows blue or green portions of
mold which give it its characteristic piquant flavor. It belongs to the
Roquefort group. It is served as Roquefort Is, In salads or as dessert
with wafers and coffee, or with pie.

Swiss Cheese Is variously known as Gruyere, Emmenthal, Sweitzer
and true Switzerland. The peculiar Swiss-cheese flavor is often called
a hazel-nut taste. It is a trifle sweet and very tempting. The typical
Switzerland cheese has evenly distributed eyes or holes about the size
of a cherry, with a dull shine on the Inner lining, but the cheese is now
packed In small cakes without rind and without holes. The imported
Switzerland Is yellow In color; the American Swiss is white. Switzer-
land cheese may be cooked, but is often served in sandwiches or as
dessert with pie or with wafers and coffee.

WELSH RAREBIT

1 tablespoon fat '^ teaspoon mustard

1 tablespoon flour ^ to 1 pound of cheese
1 cup milk (according to richness de-

Yi teaspoon salt sired) shaved or cut fine

Few grains pepper 6 slices buttered toast

Make a white sauce, in the top of a double boiler, of the first
six Ingredients, mixing the mustard with the other dry in-
gredients. Set the top part of the boiler over hot but not boil-
ing water. Add the cheese, cook and stir until it is melted.
Serve on hot toasted bread or on saltines. One-half cup chopped
olives may be added. This dish may be varied by adding one
or two slightly beaten eggs just after the cheese has melted
and continuing the cooking until the egg has thickened the
mixture.

378

MEXICAN RAREBIT

Yz tablespoon fat Y^ teaspoon salt

Yz green pepper Y2 cup canned tomatoes

2 cups grated cheese Y2 cup bread-crumbs

1 egg 6 slices buttered toast
1 cup canned corn

Melt the fat in the top of the double boiler over direct
heat. Add the chopped pepper and cook until slightly softened,
but not browned. Set over hot water, add the cheese and stir
constantly until the cheese is melted. Mix beaten egg, salt
and corn and stir into the cheese mixture; then add the chopped
tomatoes and crumbs. Allow the mixture to heat through and
serve on toasted bread.

POACHED EGG TOMATO RAREBIT

2 cups tomatoes 1 cup grated cheese

Y4 teaspoon soda 6 eggs

1 teaspoon salt 6 slices toast

Y4 teaspoon pepper Y4 teaspoon paprika

2 tablespoons flour Parsley

Mix tomatoes, soda and seasonings and stew for about ^ve
minutes; then strain and thicken with the flour, mixed to a
paste with a little cold water. Add the cheese and stir until
smooth. Poach the eggs and place on the toast on a platter.
Pour the sauce around the eggs. Sprinkle with the paprika
and garnish with parsley.

CHEESE FONDUE

On Toast —

1 cup grated cheese Paprika

3 tablespoons melted fat 6 eggs

Yz teaspoon salt 6 slices toasted bread

Mix the grated cheese with the fat and add salt and paprika.
Beat the eggs until light, add to the cheese mixture, pour into
a saucepan, set the pan in another pan of boiling water and
cook, stirring constantly, until the cheese is smooth and creamy.
Lay the toast on a hot plate, pour the fondue over it and serve
at once.

^Kmi^^-'

t i'^fe-i

CHEESE IN ANY FORM IS THE
GOURMET'S DELIGHT WHETHER
ON A SERVICE TRAY OR IN
TANGY WELSH RAREBIT

*^^%,

CHEESE 379

Baked —

1 cup grated cheese ^3 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons fat 3 eggs

1 cup milk Cayenne

1 cup soft bread-crumbs

or 1 cup cooked rice or

other cereal

Scald the milk and pour it over the crumbs or cereal, then add
the fat, the cheese and seasonings. Beat the egg-yolks slightly
and add to the mixture, then fold in the stiffly beaten whites
and turn the mixture into a greased baking-dish. Set in a pan
of water and bake in a moderate oven (375° F.) until firm
on top.

CHEESE SOUFFLE

1 cup cheese 3 tablespoons fat

3 eggs J/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup milk Pepper

3 tablespoons flour

Make a white sauce of milk, flour, fat and seasonings. Add
the cheese and beaten egg-yolks and stir until the cheese has
melted and the yolks are set. Fold in stiffly beaten egg-whites.
Pour into a greased dish, or individual molds, and set in a pan
of hot water. Bake in a moderate oven (350° F.) 45 to 50
minutes, or until the egg white is set. Serve at once. It begins
to fall as soon as removed from oven.

The cheese souffle may be baked in ramekin dishes and served
as a cheese course for dinner.

EGG AND CHEESE TIMBALES

^ ^^B^ 1 tablespoon chopped green

1 cup milk (warmed) pepper

Yz cup grated cheese Yg teaspoon paprika

Yi teaspoon salt

Beat the eggs very light and add to them the warm milk, the
grated cheese, pepper, paprika and salt. Grease small timbale-
molds, fill with the mixture, set in a baking-pan of boiling
water and bake in a slow oven (250° -3 25° F.) until the egg is
set. Turn out carefully on a hot platter. Serve at once, as they
soon fall. They may be served with tomato or pimiento sauce.

38o

LUNCHEON CHEESE AND EGGS

1 cup cream 2 tablespoons grated cheese

6 eggs Salt and pepper

Put the cream into a frying-pan and let it heat to the boiling-
point, then break in, carefully, the eggs. Lower the heat under
the eggs and cook until they are set, as in poaching, spooning
the cream over the top of the eggs while they are cooking. Put
them on a hot platter. To the cream left in the frying-pan,
add the grated cheese and seasonings. Stir until melted and pour
the mixture over the eggs.

POLENTA WITH CHEESE

1 cup corn-meal 1 teaspoon salt

4 cups boiling water Yz cup grated cheese

Pour one cup of boiling water over the corn-meal and let it
stand imtil it swells, then add the remainder of the water, with
the salt, and cook over the direct flame for five minutes, stirring
constantly. Turn it into a double boiler or fireless cooker and
cook two hours; or into a greased baking-dish and bake in a
slow oven (250°-350° F.) for two hours. Just before taking
it from the fire, add the cheese and cook until it melts.

CHEESE CROQUETTES

Yz cup soft cheese 1 egg-white

2 tablespoons fat i^ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons flour ^ teaspoon paprika

Yz cup milk Crumbs
2 egg-yolks

Make a white sauce, using the fat, flour and milk. Add tHe
slightly beaten egg-yolks^ the cheese cut in small bits, and the
seasonings. Stir until the cheese is melted. Allow the mix-
ture to coolj then shape, roll in crumbs, then in the egg- white^
which has been diluted with one tablespoon of water, then in
crumbs again and fry in deep fat (375 ""-390° F.).

CHEESE 381

CHEESE CUTLETS

% cup grated cheese 1 cup cooked Lima or navy

2 cups mashed potatoes beans, ground
4 tablespoons minced pimlento 1 teaspoon salt

Combine ingredients and shape the mixture into cutlets about
one-half inch thick. Saute them in a small amount of hot fat
and serve with horseradish sauce.

CHEESE BALLS

3 egg-whites Salt

1 tablespoon flour Cayenne
V/z cups grated cheese Crumbs

Beat the egg-whites until very stiff, fold in carefully the
flour, cheese and seasonings. Shape the mixture into small balls,
roll in fine crumbs and fry in deep fat (375° -390° F.). Serve
with soup or salad.

BAKED RICE AND CHEESE

3 cups cooked rice 1 cup milk

2 cups cheese 2 tablespoons butter
Yz teaspoon salt Crumbs

Cayenne

Put a layer of cooked rice in a greased baking-dish, cover
with a layer of grated cheese, season with salt and cayenne.
Continue adding layers until the dish is almost full. Add
enough milk to come half-way to the top of the rice. Cover
with crumbs, dot with butter and bake in a moderate oven
(3 50°-400° F.) fifteen to thirty minutes.

CHEESE WAFERS

Spread grated cheese on thin crackers, season witli a bit of
paprika and heat in a quick oven until the cheese is melted.
Serve with soup or salad. Thin slices of toasted bread may be
used instead of the crackers.

CHEESE STICKS OR STRAWS

Use any left-over plain or puff paste. Roll out to one-quarter
inch in thickness, sprinkle one-half of it with grated cheese.

382

Fold over the other half and roll out again. Sprinkle with
cheese and proceed as before; repeat three times. Cut into
very narrow strips and bake for ten minutes on the top shelf
of a very hot oven (500° F.).

CHEESE BISCUITS

% cup grated cheese Cayenne

% cup flour 1 egg-yolk

1/^ cup shortening

Mix the cheese and flour, then cut the shortening into this
mixture; add a little cayenne pepper and moisten with the yolk
of the egg. Roll out to one-fourth inch thick, cut into long,
narrow strips and bake in a very hot oven (500° F.) five to
seven minutes.

If you prefer use the ordinary recipe for baking-powder
biscuits, making the biscuits in two layers and sprinkling grated
cheese between the layers.

CHEESE TORTE

2 cups fine zwieback ll/^ teaspoons grated
crumbs lemon rind

11/2 cups sugar 1 cup cream

1 teaspoon cinnamon ly^ pounds cottage

y2 cup melted butter cheese

or margarine 4 tablespoons flour

4 eggs y^ cup chopped nut

% teaspoon salt meats

11/2 teaspoons lemon juice

Mix zwieback with Yz cup sugar, cinnamon and butter or
margarine. Set aside % cup to sprinkle over top, press remain-
der of crumbs into a 9 -inch spring form pan, lining bottom
and sides. Beat eggs with remaining 1 cup sugar, until light;
add salt, lemon juice and rind, cream, cheese and flour, beat
thoroughly and strain through a fine sieve. Pour into lined
pan, sprinkle with remaining crumbs and nut meats. Bake in
a moderate oven (350° F.) about 1 hour or until center is
"set". Turn off heat, open oven door, let stand in oven 1 hour
or until cooled. Serves 10 to 12.

VEGETABLES

ROOTS, stems, leaves, buds, seeds and fruits of plants used
' as food are called vegetables. They classify as follows:

Roots — Beets, carrots, parsnips, turnips, salsify, radishes,
horseradish, rutabagas, celeriac, sweet potatoes, yams, cassava.

Stems — Enlarged underground stems called tubers: Irish
potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes, dasheen or taro, yautia,
kohlrabi, fennel.

Stem and Bud — Asparagus.

Bulbs — Onions (green, called scallions), leek, garlic, shallot.

Leaf Stalks — Celery, rhubarb.

Leaves — ^Lettuce, endive, spinach, romaine, watercress,
chard, chives, chicory, tops of beets, turnips, dandelion, fennel,
mustard, dill, and parsley, escarole, Chinese cabbage, collards,
kale.

Buds — Cabbage (terminal), Brussels sprouts (axillary).

Flowering Heads — Cauliflower, French artichoke, broccoli.

Fruit — Cucumbers, squash, eggplant, peppers, okra, pump-
kin, tomatoes, string beans, green peas, green corn, vegetable
marrow, zucchini, chayote, Lima beans.

Seeds — Peas, beans, lentils, corn, rice, Lima beans, soybeans,
grains, cereals.

Fungi — Mushrooms, truffles.

Selection of Vegetables

Buy vegetables in their season. Many vegetables are in the
market the year round, and modern agriculture has greatly
extended the season for many others but some, when out of
season, lack flavor and freshness.

Vegetables should be fresh, firm (not hard), and ripe. Do
not buy vegetables that are old, withered, moldy or bruised,
underripe or overripe; there is no saving in cost from purchas-
ing such vegetables. Head vegetables should be solid, with
few waste leaves. Cauliflower should be white and firm, with
no blemishes. Leafy vegetables should not be wilted. Peas and
beans should have crisp pods. Buy vegetables of medium size
and regular shape.

383

384

Buy only the amount of summer vegetables you can use
immediately, because they deteriorate in quality very quickly
and are best when cooked soon after gathering.

Winter vegetables may be bought in larger amounts If there
is a suitable dry, cool place for storage.

Get acquainted with vegetables that you or your family have
never eaten. For the first time buy only enough for your own
lunch and cook them after your favorite method. If that is
successful, try them on the family. If not, try again with an-
other recipe, until you find one you think they will like.

Care of Vegetables

Summer Vegetables — If these are not to be cooked at once,
they should be put in the refrigerator or some other cool dry
place. Peas and corn, especially, should be cooked soon after
they are gathered, because they lose their sweetness on standing.
Lettuce should be sprinkled and wrapped in a heavy cloth or
paper, and put into the refrigerator until it is used. Salad
greens keep a week or more in mechanically cooled refrigerators
if they are washed and placed in closely covered enamel or
porcelain containers after being well drained. Cloths or paper
wrappings dry out too quickly in mechanically cooled
refrigerators.

Cut the stems of wilted vegetables and plunge into cold water
to freshen.

Winter Vegetables — ^These should be in good condition,
firm and uninjured and stored in a dry, cool, well ventilated
place. Most of them keep better if they are piled up so that
the air is excluded. Squash, however, keep better if they are
spread out so that they do not touch one another. Squash and
sweet potatoes require a warmer place than other vegetables.
Vegetables cannot be kept successfully in an unpartitioned cellar
containing a furnace. Vegetables should not be overripe when
stored, but should be nearly mature. Parsnips improve in
flavor if they are allowed to freeze before they are stored. They
should be watched carefully and if they show signs of spoiling,
should be used at once or removed from the other vegetables.

VEGETABLES

385

Preparation of Vegetables for Cooking

Wash all vegetables before cooking, even though they look
clean. A vegetable brush is almost a necessity. Soak wilted
vegetables before peeling them. Vegetables that are soaked
after they are peeled lose some soluble food materials. Dry
winter vegetables may be improved by soaking them for several
hours. Scrape thin-skinned vegetables; pare thick-skinned
vegetables or remove the skin after cooking. Make thin par-
ings except in the case of turnips, from which a thick layer of
corky material should be removed. Discard decayed vegetables.

Many vegetables, particularly of the bud, head and fruit
groups, need to be immersed for a period in cold salt water.
This freshens the fiber and drives out any insects that have
taken refuge in crevices. Leaf vegetables need to be washed
in several waters, the first of which should be salted for the
same reason. The leaves should be lifted out of the water rather
than the water poured off. This permits any sand to sink to
the bottom of the pan. A tablespoon of liquid ammonia added
to the last gallon of wash water will remove the last film that
carries an earthy flavor.

What Vegetables Provide

The appreciation of vegetables as food has greatly increased
in recent years with an extended understanding of their
peculiar values. The modern woman realizes that these values,
having been paid for at the market, must be retained in the
preparation, if her family is to benefit by her intelligent pur-
chases. Vegetables are one of the three groups of food that
protect growth and vitality and preserve the characteristics
of youth, the others being milk and fruits. The importance of
these protective foods may be realized by the fact that scientists
have found an astonishing relation between the early onset of
old age and the food habits of persons involved. The modern
woman knows that vegetables provide not only starches and
sugars for energy, as well as several forms of protein, but what
is most important they provide impressive amounts of Vitamins
A, B, C, E, and G, in addition to mineral salts. (See pages 39

to 44.) These mineral salts are especially Calcium, Phosphorus,
Iron, Copper, Manganese, and Sulphur, as well as Iodine, in
vegetables grown along the seashore. Besides all this, she knows
that the generous use of many vegetables helps to keep up the
body's normal alkaline balance which contributes so very largely
to sound health and vitality.

Cooking to Retain These Values

Many vegetables can be and are eaten uncooked with all
their values intact. But many more need to be cooked before
they can be served. Preparation by cooking should result in
the least possible loss while it enhances values not otherwise
available. For this reason cooking should:

1. Swell and burst the starch cell so that the center is softened and made
digestible.

2. Sterilize the vegetable thoroughly.

3. Break up tough fiber so it is edible and digestible.

4. Release food proteins and minerals from their fiber cells.

5. Provide hot food.

6. Inaease many flavors and some colors.

Baking is the best method to secure all these results and still
preserve Vitamins and minerals. Dry baking in their skins,
generally used for potatoes, sweet potatoes, squash, turnips,
carrots, onions, and parsnips, is a simple method whereby the
vegetable is packed in a pan or laid on the rack of a hot oven
to remain until just tender when pierced with a sharp fork.
Baking, however, also includes the roasting of whole vegetables
with meat, gravy, or fat, especially when potatoes or sweet
potatoes are scraped, thus preserving mineral values just under
the skin.

Au Gratin and Scalloping are other forms of baking,
especially when fresh vegetables are used. In the latter method,
layers of the vegetable are alternated in a baking dish or ring
mold with white sauce, cream or milk, and seasonings, and in
the former method a covering of buttered bread crumbs or
buttered crumbs and cheese is added. Leftover cooked
vegetables may be prepared by these methods also, but the
Vitamin and mineral value will be determined by the first cook-
ing. Only baking in the jacket will insure the preservation of
the Vitamins.

VEGETABLES 387

Broiling is the exposure to direct heat and can be used for
some vegetables. The minerals will be less injured than the
Vitamins, for the high heat destroys most of the latter.

Deep Fat Frying, next to baking, is another satisfactory
way to retain most of the food values. The vegetable is sliced
or cut into convenient form, dipped in egg and crumbs or
batter, and immersed in enough very hot fat to cover well.
This permits quick cooking with little loss.

In Sauteing, the shredded or broken vegetable is turned
into a shallow pan or skillet in which a small amount of fat
has been heated. Cooking takes longer and more fat is absorbed
by the food, hence, for many persons the process is not
advisable.

Boiling does the most damage to fresh vegetables, yet it is
used most frequently by the largest number of homemakers.
Although there are methods that reduce the losses to a minimum,
the modern woman will remember that boiling is to be used
least often, and always to be overbalanced by the better methods.
Most of the mineral salts occurring in vegetables are easily dis-
solved in water and the loss of Vitamins during boiling takes
place in several ways. They may be destroyed by overheating,
by prolonged exposure to the air, and by dissolving out in the
cooking water. When this is drained off and discarded, the
principal food values gained by the intelligent buying of
vegetables has been thrown away. In every case only the small-
est possible amount of water should be used and it should be
boiling rapidly when the vegetables are dropped in. They
should be cooked only until just tender, and by this time
most of the water has been evaporated. Greens such as spinach,
chard, and dandelions need only the water that clings to the
leaves. They go into a cold pot with the heat turned on after
the vegetable is in the kettle.

To Boil Vegetables the Proper Way, four methods must
be taken into account:

1. The green vegetables are best cooked in water that is slightly alkaline.
If there is any doubt, add a bit of baking soda the size of a pinhead.
No drinking water would be acid enough to need more. Use an un-
covered kettle and cook only until tender to the fork. If overcooked,
green vegetables turn brownish because of chemical changes in the
coloring matter, the fine flavor is ruined, while food values are lost.

2. White fresh vegetables such as cabbage, cauliflower, and onion are

388

Strong flavored, due to their special oils. Hard water changes these oils
so that the white color turns to yellow or brown. To prevent this, add
1 teaspoon of lemon juice or white vinegar. Drop the vegetable into
enough rapidly boiling water to cover and cook with the kettle uncovered
until just tender to the fork. Add the drained water, if any, to your
soup stock.

3. The red color in vegetables is produced by acid and needs to be kept
that way. Tomatoes usually have enough acid of their own to keep the
color, but beets and red cabbage need a teaspoon of lemon juice or
white vinegar. Cook in a small amount of water in a covered kettle.

4. Yellow vegetables are among the most valuable and stable. That rich
yellow color is not only beauty but actually the foundation of Vitamin
A. Not much damage can be done to it although the minerals and other
Vitamins can still be destroyed if the vegetable is carelessly handled.

Li general, the destruction of Vitamins is reduced when
vegetables are boiled at high temperatures for the shortest pos-
sible time, in the smallest possible amount of water. Then the
minerals, too, will be saved.

Steaming as a method of cooking vegetables is valuable for
those that can stand a high temperature for a long period, or
those that are cooked in the meat pot so that the extracted
minerals and Vitamins are used in the gravy. It is particularly
good for dried and starchy ones. The long, slow process gives
the starch cell time to swell and gelatinize. It is most valuable
at high altitudes, because the extra pressure keeps the steam at
212° F. or more, while in the open-air cooking the high altitude
reduces the boiling point below 212° F.

"Waterless Cooking of fresh vegetables is any process in
which no water is added. The water in the vegetable itself does
the cooking. A thick-walled kettle with a tight-fitting lid isi
the necessary equipment. Very low heat is used, and the
vegetable is tender in a very short time because neither heat nor
steam escapes. No minerals are lost and the loss of Vitamins is
almost as low as in baking.

All cooking of vegetables reduces the Vitamin C content,
although tomatoes and the baked potato manage to retain
most of theirs. To insure an adequate daily supply of Vitamin
C, the modern woman never loses sight of the fact that some
fresh fruits and vegetables must be served every day.

ARTICHOKES

The French artichoke is boiled in salted water, served hot
with brown butter or Hollandaise sauce, or cold with mayon-

VEGETABLES . 389

naise. The spiny choke below the leaves and above the heart
must be discarded. The Jerusalem artichoke is washed, pared,
I boiled like a potato and dressed with seasoning, melted butter
and minced parsley.

ASPARAGUS

Trim off hard stalks and scales to the head. Tie in bunches,
stand upright in boiling salted water. After 10 minutes turn
^ into loaf pan and continue with heat under the stems. Serve
\ with browned butter or Hollandaise.

BOSTON BAKED BEANS

No. 1.

1 pint pea beans 1^ teaspoon salt

1 small onion 14 teaspoon dry mustard

Yq pound salt pork, part fat 2 tablespoons molasses

Soak beans in cold water overnight. In the morning drain
and turn into a bean-pot; or simmer until skins begin to burst,
but not long enough to be mushy, then turn into the bean-pot.
Pour boiling water over salt pork. Scrape the rind until white,
score in half-inch strips, and bury meat in beans, leaving only
the rind exposed. Mix salt, mustard and molasses in a cup, fill
with hot water, stir until well mixed, and pour over the pork
and beans. Add water to cover, and bake in a 250°-350° F,
oven six to eight hours, adding more water to cover until the
last hour, when pot cover is removed and pork raised to the
surface to crisp.

Use corned beef instead of pork, or omit meat and use more
salt, with one-third cup of fat.

No. 2 — Quick Method — ^Use same ingredients as in pre-
vious recipe. Do not soak the beans overnight. Place them
over the fire, cover them with cold water, and slowly bring
the water to a boil, then set the kettle where the beans will
simmer, but will at no time boil vigorously. When they have
cooked in this way for fifteen minutes, drain and add fresh
boiling water. Add salt pork to the kettle and simmer until
the beans may be pierced with a straw. Turn the beans into
a colander to drain; put into bean-pot, season and bake as di-
rected above.

390

SOY-BEANS

Of the many varieties of soy-beans grown in this country,
the yellow variety is the most popular for cooking purposes,
though the black and green beans are used, and are particularly
good in soup. Soy-beans require longer cooking than white
beans, but the length of time required is lessened if the beans
are soaked for twelve hours before cooking.

BAKED SOY-BEANS

2 cups yellow soy-beans 2 tablespoons molasses

1 tablespoon salt 1 teaspoon mustard

1 small onion ^ pound fat salt pork

Soak the beans for twelve hours, then heat to boiling and
simmer until tender. Unless the beans are tender before they
are baked, they will not be good. Prepare as directed for
"Baked Beans." Eight to ten hours will be required to bake
them.

BOILED LIMA BEANS

1 quart green Lima beans or 1 tablespoon fat

2 cups dried Lima beans 1 cup milk or cream if

Salt and pepper desired

If the green beans are used, put them into just enough boil-
ing water to cover, and boil slowly until tender. Salt the water
just before cooking is completed. Add fat and salt and pepper
to taste. If desired, a cup of milk or cream may be added and
the beans allowed to simmer in it for a moment.

If dried beans are used they may be soaked twelve hours
in plenty of cold water, and boiled in the same water with one-
eighth teaspoon of soda added for each quart of water; or
the process may be hastened by soaking them for one hour and
simmering them for two hours. If they are not soaked at all,
they can be made tender by simmering for two and one-half
hours. The water should be drained off before the milk or
cream is added.

STRING BEANS

1 quart string beans Salt and pepper Butter

Wash beans, string and snap or cut into short pieces. Cover
with least possible amount of boiling water and cook gently

Tl€ YOUR PUNGENT VEGETABLES SNUGLY INTO
VEGETABLE PARCHMENT BEFORE PLUNGING
INTO BOILING WATER. IT KEEPS THE HOUSE
SMELLING SV/EET

,., ^OVER WHITE VEGETABLES

LOSELY — A SMALL AMOUNT OF

WATER AND PIECE OF BUTTER —

COOK THEM IN JHEIR OWN STEAM

VEGETABLES 391

until tender. Salt the water just before cooking is completed.
"When done, drain and season with butter, salt and pepper.

If the flavor of salt pork is liked cut slice of salt pork into
small pieces and fry until brown, then add one tablespoon flour,
one cup hot water, and the beans. Simmer for a few minutes
and serve hot.

BOILED BEETS

Wash the beets thoroughly and remove the leaves, being very
careful not to break off the little fibers and rootlets which re-
tain the juices and coloring matter. Use plenty of water in
cooking. If the beets are tough and withered, soak them for
twenty- four hours in plenty of cold water before beginning to
cook them.

Try with a fork, and when they are tender drop them into
a pan of cold water and slip off the skins with the hands. If
small, serve whole. I'f large, slice those to be used immediately,
place in a dish and season with salt, pepper, and butter or savory
fat. A teaspoon of sugar may be added also if the beets are not
naturally sweet enough. Set them over boiling water to heat
thoroughly and serve hot, with or without vinegar. Cold beets
left over may be covered with vinegar and used as pickles.

BEET GREENS

Carefully wash and clean young beets, leaving roots and tops
together. Put them into a kettle with very little boiling water
and allow them to cook until just tender. Salt the water just
before cooking is completed. Drain as dry as possible, in a col-
ander. Chop, if desired. Serve hot with vinegar or with butter,
salt and pepper.

BROCCOLI

Broccoli is a variety of cauliflower that is green instead
of white. It was very popular in Colonial gardens and con-
tinued to be grown and sold along the east coast but gained
popularity very slowly among native Americans. Within the last
ten years growers on the west coast have promoted it and it is
now as popular and often more abundant and lower priced than
cauliflower. Shipped in ice from early cuttings, even the largest
stalks are often tender. Choose heads and leaves that are bright
green and crisp. Cut off only such portions of the stalk as are

39^

too hard and tough to admit the knife. Wash under running
water and refrigerate, if not to be used at once. When ready
to cook, use a deep kettle just large enough for the head or heads
and bring salted water to a rapid boil. Insert carefully, stem
end down, leave uncovered and when the water stops boiling
add soda the size of a small pea to the water around the stems.
The heads should not be submerged. When water boils up
again they will cook more slowly than the stems and both will
be tender in 15-25 minutes. If the heads are under water, they
cook so much more rapidly that they will be mushy before the
stems are tender. Broccoli heads, stems and leaves are valuable
sources of vitamins A and G, as well as iron and calcium.

Serve with brown butter sauce, brown butter and crumbs,
HoUandaise sauce or au gratin. Broccoli can be used instead
of spinach for cream soup, especially when the green color
is wanted.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS

Pick off the dead leaves from the sprouts, soak the sprouts
in cold salted water for one-half hour, wash them and put
them on the fire in plenty of boiling water. Boil in an un-
covered saucepan until tender. Just before they are done,
salt the water. Drain in a colander. Reheat; season with salt
and pepper, and serve with cream sauce or melted butter.

BOILED CABBAGE

Cut the cabbage into desired shapes. Place it in a kettle with
a generous amount of water. Cook uncovered until just tender.
Add salt to the water just before cooking is completed. Drain,
add butter or bacon fat, salt and pepper.

A little milk or cream may be added or it may be creamed or
scalloped or served au gratin.

SCALLOPED CABBAGE WITH CHEESE

i small head cabbage 1 ^ cups medium white sauce

2 cups grated cheese Vz to Y^ cup bread-crumbs

Cook the cabbage as directed for boiled cabbage. Into a
greased baking-dish^ put a layer of cabbage, then a layer of
cheese, then a layer of white sauce, and continue to add layers

yEGETABLES 393

until the ingredients are all used. Cover the top of the mixture
with the crumbs, which may be mixed with a little melted but-
ter, and bake in a moderate oven (3 50° -400° F.) for about
twenty minutes, or until the crumbs are brown.

CARROTS, TOASTED

To serve carrots as a separate vegetable, scrape and wash;
leave young carrots whole and cut old carrots in slices length-
wise or crosswise. Boil them until tender (15-30 minutes) in
water containing one teaspoon sugar. Just before cooking is
completed, salt the water. Drain, add butter, and seasoning or
roll in butter, then in corn flakes and brown in oven at 3 50° F.

^, , CARROTS AND PEAS

No. 1.

2 cups cubed, cooked carrots 3 tablespoons butter or other

1 cup cooked peas, fresh or fat or

canned Medium white sauce

Combine the carrots and peas, reheat and serve with melted
butter or any savory fat such as bacon fat; or combine with a
white sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

No. 2 — ^WiTH Green Mint — Combine the carrots and peas,
as directed above, add one-half cup mint leaves and a little boil-
ing water and boil for five minutes. Drain, add salt and pepper,
a generous amount of butter and a sprinkle of sugar. Set in
the oven until the sugar melts. Serve with a garnish of fresh
mint leaves.

CARROT MOLDS

2 cups grated raw carrot 1 teaspoon salt

yz cup bread-crumbs 2 tablespoons melted fat

2 eggs Yz cup milk

Wash, scrape and grate the carrots and mix with the crumbs.
Beat the eggs and add to them the salt, fat and milk. Add this
mixture to the carrot and crumb mixture. Fill a greased ring
mold or popover cups, set in a pan of hot water and bake in a
slow oven (250°-325° F.) until firm.

BOILED CAULIFLOWER

Remove the green leaves from the cauliflower and cut off
any bruised or dirty spots. Place it, top downward, in a deep

394

bowl of cold, salted water and allow it to stay there about half
an hoiir to draw out dust and other impurities. Cook it, whole
or broken into flowerets, in boiling water, uncovered. Just
before cooking is completed (15-30 minutes) salt the water.
Lift out the cauliflower carefully and allow it to drain in a
warm place. Pour medium white sauce over it or send the
sauce to the table in a sauce-boat, or serve it with melted butter
and paprika.

Sometimes hot boiled cauliflower is sprinkled with grated
cheese and then with buttered crumbs and baked to a light
brown in a moderate oven (400° F.), or it may be sprinkled
with the grated cheese and served without baking.

SCALLOPED CAULIFLOWER

1 medium cauliflower 1 Yz cups medium white sauce

2 hard-cooked eggs or Bread-crumbs
4 tablespoons grated cheese

Break the cauliflower into flowerets before boiling. Drain.
Place a layer of the cooked cauliflower in a greased baking-
dish, then a layer of eg^ slices or of grated cheese, then a layer
of white sauce. Repeat until all the cauliflower is used. Put
a layer of crumbs over the top and bake in a moderate oven
(3 50° -400° F.) from fifteen to thirty minutes. A bit of
cayenne pepper or paprika may be added for additional season-
ing.

CREAMED CELERY

2 cups celery cut into inch 2 tablespoons flour

long pieces 2 tablespoons fat

Yz cup milk Salt and pepper

"Wash the stalks clean and cut them into pieces. Place the
celery in a stew-pan, cover with boiling water and boil until
tender (about half an hour), by which time the water should
be reduced to about one-half cup. Make a sauce with the
celery water, milk, flour and butter. Add the cooked celery
and season with salt and pepper.

SCALLOPED CELERY

Stew celery, as directed in the preceding recipe, using all milk
in the sauce instead of part celery water. Turn the creamed

VEGETABLES 395

celery into a greased ramekin, sprinkle with grated cheese and
buttered crumbs and bake in a moderate oven (3 50° -400° F.)
until it is a golden brown (15-30 minutes).

CELERIAC

Not every housewife knows celeriac, but it is well worth
adding to her list of vegetable acquaintances. It is a variety of
celery grown for its turnip -like root instead of for the blanched
stalks. The flavor is similar to that of celery.

To prepare celeriac, trim off the tops, wash and pare the bulb^
drop it into boiling water and cook about one-half hour, or
until tender. Add the salt just before cooking is completed.
It may then be prepared in the same way as creamed or scalloped
celery, or may be used, cold, in salads.

BOILED GREEN CORN

To have this vegetable in perfection, the husks should be left
on until just before it is to be boiled. Plunge the husked ears
into boiling water and cook from seven to twelve minutes,
according to the size of the corn. Do not salt the cooking water,
as this toughens the corn.

Lay a napkin on the serving-plate. Pile the corn upon this
in a pyramid, cover it with the corners of the napkin and send
It to the table.

CORN SOUFFLE

1 tablespoon fat Pepper

1 tablespoon flour 1 boiled pimiento

54 cup milk 2 cups corn pulp

1 teaspoon salt 2 eggs

y4 teaspoon paprika

Make a white sauce, using the fat, flour, milk and seasoning.
Rub the pimiento through a sieve and add it to the sauce.
Add the corn to the mixture. Cool slightly, then add the well-
beaten egg-yolks and fold in the stiffly beaten egg-whites. Turn
into a greased baking-dish, set the dish in a pan of hot water,
and bake in a moderate oven (375° F.) until the egg is set,
about thirty minutes.

396

CORN OYSTERS

2 cups corn pulp 2 tablespoons fat

2 eggs Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons flour

If fresh corn is used, grate it from the cob with a coarse
grater. If canned corn is used, select one of the sieved varieties.
Beat the egg-yolks and whites separately and add to the grated
corn, with flour and fat, salt and pepper. Drop the batter
from a spoon into hot fat (3 60° -370° F.) and fry light brown
(2-3 minutes). Drain on soft paper. Serve hot.

CORN PUDDING OR DEVILED CORN

2 tablespoons fat 2 cups corn pulp

2 tablespoons flour 1 egg

lYz cups milk 1 tablespoon Worcestershire

1 teaspoon salt sauce

1/4 teaspoon mustard Buttered crumbs

Paprika

Make a sauce of fat, flour, milk, and seasonings, add corn, egg
slightly beaten, and "Worcestershire sauce. Pour into a baking-
dish, cover with buttered crumbs and bake in a moderate oven
(350°-400° F.) fifteen to thirty minutes.

BAKED CORN AND TOMATOES

2 cups cooked corn 1 teaspoon sugar

2 cups tomatoes 1 cup fresh bread-crumbs

1 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons fat

Pepper

Mix seasonings with the corn and tomatoes and pour all into
a greased baking-dish. Spread the crumbs over the top, dot
them with the fat, and bake in a moderate oven (3 50° -400°
F.) for one-half hour. This is a satisfactory way of utilizing
left-over corn or tomatoes.

CUCUMBER CUPS

This makes a dainty dish for luncheon. Cut the unpared
vegetables into sections two inches long and cook until tender
in water salted just before cooking is completed. Scoop out the

A MIDSUMMER
NIGHTS DREAM
COME TRUE IN
THE DELICATE,
TEMPTING FLAVOR
OF CORN ON THE
COB
—National Dairy Council

COOKED CAR-
ROTS ROLLED IN
BREAD CRUMBS
AND BAKED ARE
EASY TO MAKE
AND SERVE

A NEW PRESENTATION OF PEAS
giM A CARROT RING. WITH
, SLICED CARROTS AND PARSLEY

GARNISH . - - "*

'^i^--

VEGETABLES 397

center of each section, leaving one -half -inch thickness all
around the sides, as well as on the bottom, thus making green
cups of the vegetable. These cups may be filled with creamed
chicken, sweetbreads, mushrooms or any other filling held to-
gether with white sauce.

STEWED CUCUMBERS

3 cucumbers 1 cup boiling water
6 slices toast Yz teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons fat Pepper

2 tablespoons flour 1^ tablespoons lemon- juice

Peel medium-sized cucumbers and cut them into quarters
lengthwise. Place in a shallow pan, cover with the boiling
water and stew gently for ten to twenty minutes. Add salt
just before cooking is completed. When done, lay them care-
fully on toasted bread, make a sauce of the flour, fat, water
in which cucumbers were cooked, and seasonings, cook until
smooth, and pour the sauce over the stewed cucumbers.

CUCUMBER SAUTE

4 cucumbers! Salt and pepper

Butter Minced parsley or chives

Flour

Pare and quarter the cucumbers and boil them, without any
water, for three minutes. Drain; season with salt and pepper;
roll in flour and saute in a little butter until tender. Sprinkle
with parsley or chives just before the cooking is completed.

DANDELION GREENS

2 pounds dandelion greens 1 tablespoon butter

Salt and pepper

Dandelions should be used before they blossom, as they be-
come bitter after that time. Cut off the roots, pick the greens
over carefully, and wash them well in several waters. Place
them in a kettle, add a little boiling water, and boil until tender.
Salt the water just before cooking is completed. "When done,
lift them into a colander, press them to drain off all the water,
and chop. Add butter, salt and pepper.

398

FRIED EGGPLANT

1 eggplant Cracker-dust or bread-crumbs

Salt Egg

Cut the eggplant into one-half -inch slices, pare and sprinkle
each slice with salt. Lay slice upon slice and place a plate upon
the top. Let stand two hours. The salt will draw out the dis-
agreeably bitter flavor. Half an hour before serving, wipe each
sHce dry, dip in beaten egg, then in cracker dust or fine bread-
crumbs, and saute in hot fat. Put a pan in the oven or in some
other place where it can be kept hot; lay a piece of absorbent
paper in the pan, and upon it place the slices as they come crisp
and brown from the frying-pan. Serve on a hot platter with
the slices overlapping.

STUFFED EGGPLANT

1 eggplant Yz cup water

2 tablespoons butter 2 cups crumbs
Salt and pepper

Cut the eggplant in half lengthwise and scoop out the center
pulp, leaving the rind about one-half inch thick so that the
shape may be firm. Cover the shells with cold water. Chop
the pulp fine, season it with salt, pepper, and butter, and cook
in a frying-pan for ten minutes, stirring well, then add water
and one cup of bread-crumbs. Drain the shells, sprinkle the
interior of each with salt and pepper and fill them with the
mixture. Spread the remaining crumbs over the tops. Place
the halves in a baking-dish or deep pan, and pour enough hot
water into the pan to come one-third up the sides of the plant.
Bake in a moderate oven (350°-375° F.) one-half hour, and
serve hot.

CREAMED CHICORY OR ENDIVE

Wash the plant carefully and pick off the outer green leaves,
leaving only the white part. Boil until tender, drain well,
return it to the kettle, and nearly cover with medium white
sauce, which should be well seasoned.

VEGETABLES 399

KALE

Kale may be cooked and served in the same way as spinach,
or tied in a bundle like asparagus and served on toast with a
generous allowance of butter or white sauce.

CREAMED KOHLRABI

6 kohlrabi Paprika

2 tablespoons fat 2 cups milk

2 tablespoons flour 1 egg-yolk
Salt

Wash and pare the kohlrabi. Cut into half -inch cubes, drop
into boiling water to cover and cook until tender. Just before
cooking is completed, add salt, then drain and shake over the
fire to dry slightly. Make a white sauce from the flour, fat,
milk and seasonings, adding the egg-yolk last, and pour it over
the vegetable.

SAUTEED LENTILS

1 pint lentils Salt and pepper
Ys teaspoon soda 2 tablespoons fat

"Wash the lentils and soak over night. In the morning, drain
them, cover with warm water in which the soda has been dis-
solved, and bring them quickly to the boiling-point. Boil
gently for one hour, drain, cover them again with fresh boil-
ing water, and boil gently until tender; this generally requires
from two to three hours longer. Test by mashing a lentil
between the fingers. If it crushes quickly, they are done.
Drain in a colander.

Melt fat in a frying-pan ; add the lentils, with salt and pepper
to season; stir them over the fire for fifteen minutes. Two
minced onions may be added, if desired.

MACEDOINE OF VEGETABLES

2 cups mixed cooked vege- Yz cup water
tables Salt and pepper

1 teaspoon beef extract or 2 tablespoons butter or other

Yz cup stock fat

1 teaspoon sugar

Mix all the ingredients together and cook eight or ten minutes
over a hot fire, shaking the pan now and then. Serve hot.

400

BOILED MACARONI OR SPAGHETTI

Break the macaroni or spaghetti into short lengths. Cover
Vith plenty of boiling water and boil until soft, twenty-five to
thirty-five minutes generally being required. If a cooker with
perforated inner container is not available, stir occasionally
w^ith a fork to prevent sticking to the kettle. Turn into a sieve
and drain thoroughly. Place in the serving-dish and cover with
tomato sauce. Serve grated cheese with it or mix the cheese
with the tomato sauce. Some people prefer spaghetti cooked
in long pieces. To do this place the ends in boiling water and
coil it as it softens.

BAKED MACARONI OR SPAGHETTI
WITH CHEESE

2 cups macaroni or spaghetti 2 tablespoons butter or other

broken into short lengths fat

^ pound grated cheese lYz cups milk
Salt and pepper

Boil and drain the macaroni or spaghetti as directed in the
preceding recipe. Arrange a layer in the bottom of a pudding-
dish. Over it sprinkle some of the cheese and scatter over this
bits of butter or other fat. Add a sprinkling of salt and pepper.
Fill the dish in this order, having macaroni on top, well oiled
with fat but without cheese. Add just enough milk to cover
well and bake in a moderate oven (3 50°-400° F.), about one-
half hour. Serve in the dish in which it was baked.

MUSHROOMS

To Prepare Mushrooms for cooking by any method, cut
off the stalks, pare the caps, or brush well if they are fresh and
tender, and drop them into a bowl of water which contains
the juice of half a lemon or a tablespoon of vinegar if you wish
to keep them from darkening. If the stalks are solid and tender,
they may be peeled, cooked and served with the caps, otherwise
cook them with the peelings in a small amount of water, for
mushroom stock.

Too much cooking toughens mushrooms. Three or four
minutes will heat canned mushrooms, and five or six minutes
will cook fresh ones, usually.

VEGETABLES 40l

CREAMED MUSHROOMS

No. 1.

2 tablespoons fat 1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon flour Yz cup boiling water

J/2 cup cream 2 cups mushrooms, fresh or

y^ teaspoon pepper canned

Make a sauce of the fat, flour, cream and seasoning. Pre-
pare mushrooms and stew them in boiling water until tender.
Add, without draining, to cream sauce. Serve very hot.

No. 2.

IJ^ tablespoons fat Salt and pepper

1 V2, tablespoons flour 1 Yz cups cooked mushrooms

1 egg-yolk fresh or canned

1 cup milk

Prepare a white sauce of the fat, flour, milk and seasonings.
Add the cooked mushrooms to the sauce and cook gently for
several minutes. Just before serving, add the beaten egg-yolk
and reheat.

MUSHROOMS UNDER GLASS

2 tablespoons butter 1 slice toast

Yz tablespoon lemon- juice 6 mushroom caps

Salt and pepper J4 cup heavy cream

Yz teaspoon minced parsley

The quantities given allow for service of only one person.

Baking dishes with bell-shaped glass covers are obtainable at
most house-furnishing stores. The mushrooms should be served
with the covers on.

Cream butter and add lemon -juice, drop by drop, salt, pepper
and minced parsley. Cover the bottom of an individual bak-
ing-dish with a circular piece of toast three-eighths of an inch
thick, wetting the under side with half the sauce already made.
Pile mushroom caps, cleaned and peeled, on the toast and pour
over them the remainder of the sauce and the heavy cream.
Cover with glass and bake in a quick oven (400° -4 50° F.)
about twenty-five minutes. Save the stalks, if tender, or stew
with skins in a little water to make stock for seasoning sauces
and gravies.

402

BAKED OR ROASTED MUSHROOMS

36 mushroom caps Butter

Salt and pepper 6 slices toast

Select mushrooms that are plump and are truly little cups.
Prepare caps as directed. Place them upside down in a baking-
dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper and place a bit of butter in
each cup. Set the pan in a quick oven (400° -450° F.) and
cook for fifteen minutes. The cups will be filled with their
own liquor. Serve on toast, very hot.

^, , BOILED OKRA

No. 1.

1 quart tender okra pods 3 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper 1 tablespoon vinegar

Test the okra by breaking off the tips of the pods. If there
are tough strings that will not break easily the pod is too old to
be served as a vegetable and should be kept for a soup or sauce
which is to be strained. The pods of okra are so sticky that
special care is needed to avoid breaking them during the clean-
ing. "Wash them well, and remove the stems, place in sufficient
boiling water to cover them and boil until tender (20-40 min-
utes) . Add salt just before cooking is completed. Okra should
boil very slowly, as rapid boiling will break it in pieces. When
it is tender, turn into a colander to drain, then lay it in a serv-
ing dish. Melt the butter, add the vinegar and a little salt and
pepper; mix well, and pour the sauce over the okra.

No. 2.

2 cups okra Salt and pepper

2 tomatoes 1 tablespoon butter

Test and wash the okra as above; remove stems and cut the
pods into slices, crosswise. Place in a granite stew-pan, just
cover with boiling water and simmer until tender (20-40 min-
utes). Add the tomatoes, peeled and chopped, and stew for
ten minutes longer. Add butter, salt and pepper, and serve.

BOILED ONIONS

Peel the onions. If they are very large cut them in quarters.
Cook in boiling water, uncovered, until tender (30-60 min-

VEGETABLES 403

utes). Just before cooking is completed, add salt to taste.
When cooked, drain well, season with butter and pepper and
serve hot.

CREAMED ONIONS

In peeling the onions remove all of the green leaves, for they
should be as white as milk when served. Drop them into boil-
ing water and boil uncovered for ten minutes. Drain, add
freshly boiling water and continue cooking until tender (30-
60 minutes) . Just before cooking is completed, add salt. Drain
thoroughly, place in a serving-dish and pour medium white
sauce over them. If the onions are large they may be quartered
before they are cooked.

STUFFED ONIONS

6 medium to large onions Yz cup milk

Yz cup chopped ham or Pepper

chopped green pepper Y2 teaspoon salt

Yz cup soft bread-crumbs 1 tablespoon fat
Fine dry bread-crumbs

Remove a slice from the top of each onion and parboil the
onions until almost tender. Drain and remove the centers, leav-
ing six little cups. Chop the onion that was scooped out and
combine with it the ham and soft crumbs. Add seasoning and
refill the onion cups. Place them in a baking-dish, cover with
crumbs, add the milk, and bake in a quick oven (400° -450°
F.) until tender.

CREAMED PARSNIPS

12 medium-sized parsnips 2 tablespoons flour

1 cup milk 2 tablespoons fat

Salt and pepper

Young parsnips are most desirable, but old ones may be used
if the woody center is removed.

Wash and scrape the parsnips, and boil them until tender.
Drain and cut them into small pieces. Make a sauce of the
fat, flour, milk and seasonings. Add the cooked parsnips and
serve.

404

FRIED PARSNIPS

12 medium-sized parsnips Salt and pepper

Flour or fine crumbs

Scrape and boil the parsnips until tender. If old, remove the
woody centers. Drain, and when cold, cut them in long, thin
slices about one-third of an inch thick, and season each slice
with salt and pepper. Dip the slices in flour or fine crumbs and
saute in fat or oil until both sides are thoroughly browned.
Drain well and serve very hot.

BOILED PEAS

2 quarts peas in the shell 2 tablespoons butter

Salt and pepper

Fresh peas should not be shelled until just before they are
needed for cooking. Look them over carefully after shelling,
taking out any tendrils that may be mixed with them. Wash
and cook until tender in a covered pan in just enough boiling
water to prevent scorching. Add salt just before cooking is
completed. Young peas will cook in ten to twenty minutes
but those that are more mature require a longer time. Most
of the water should have cooked away. If any remains, drain
carefully. Let the peas stand in the drainer over hot water.
Melt the butter, add salt and pepper and the drained peas.
Mix well, reheat, and serve.

CREAMED PEAS

2 cups cooked peas 1 cup medium white sauce

Mix peas with white sauce. Reheat and serve.

BHUGIA

2 cups peas 2 tablespoons oil or melted fat

4 medium potatoes Salt

Chopped green peppers

This is a popular dish in India and is usually served with the
dinner roast. Boil the peas and potatoes separately. When the
potatoes are thoroughly done, drain and let them cool enough

VEGETABLES 405

to be easily handled. Drain the peas. Heat the oil in a frying-
pan. Slice the potatoes and saute potatoes and peas together
in the oil. Season with salt and sprinkle with chopped green
peppers.

RICE AND PEAS

1 cup rice 2 onions 2 cups green peas

Boil the rice and peas separately. Chop the onions fine and
fry them in oil until tender. Add the cooked rice and peas.

BOILED POTATOES

Select potatoes of uniform size. Wash, pare, if you wish,
and drop into cold water. Cook in boiling water until tender
when pierced with a fork. Just before cooking is completed,
add the salt. The water should be kept boiling constantly.
When done, drain and shake the pan over the fire to dry the
potatoes. Serve in an uncovered dish or cover with a folded
napkin. Old potatoes should be soaked in cold water for an
hour or so before boiling. When they are pared, potatoes lose
much vitamin and mineral content in boiling. It is better,
therefore, from the nutritional standpoint, to wash them
thoroughly, scrubbing with a brush, and boil them with the
skins on. They may be peeled quickly before they are served,
or served with the skins on.

RICED POTATOES

Force hot, freshly boiled potatoes through a ricer or coarse
strainer. Sprinkle with salt and pile lightly into the serving-
dish. Serve at once in an uncovered dish.

BAKED POTATOES

Select smooth, medium-sized potatoes, scrub, remove the eyes
and any blemishes, place in a baking-pan or on the rack in a
very hot oven (450°-500° F.) and bake until tender (30-60
minutes). Be sure to have the oven hot before the potatoes
are put in. To test the potatoes, do not pierce them with a fork,
but squeeze them with the hand wrapped in a towel. When
soft, break the skin to keep them from being soggy, and serve.

4o6

POTATOES ON THE HALF-SHELL

Select medium-sized or large potatoes; scrub and bake. Re-
move a piece of skin from the side of each potato to make it
boat-shaped, or cut large potatoes in two lengthwise. Scoop
out the inside, being careful not to break the shell. Mash very
thoroughly — ^it is advisable to put them through the ricer —
add butter, salt and milk, and beat well. Pile the mixture
lightly back in the shells. Do not smooth down the top. Stand
the filled shells in a shallow pan, return to the oven (400° F.)j
and brown lightly on top. Tuck in small wieners before serv-
ing if desired.

STUFFED POTATOES

Follow directions for potatoes on the half-shell, adding one-
half cup peanut butter and two egg-whites to the potato mix-
ture.

POTATOES SUZETTE

6 medium-sized potatoes 6 tablespoons buttered crumbs

Yz cup hot milk 1 tablespoon grated cheese

2 tablespoons melted fat Salt and pepper
6 eggs

Prepare as for potatoes on the half shell. Refill the shell al-
most to the top, break an egg into each opening, season with
pepper and salt and sprinkle with buttered crumbs that have
been mixed with grated cheese and bake in a slow oven (250°-
350° F.) long enough to set the egg and brown lightly (about
six minutes).

SCALLOPED POTATOES

6 medium-sized potatoes Milk

2 tablespoons flour Salt and pepper

4 tablespoons butter

Pare raw potatoes and cut them into thin slices. Place in a
baking-dish a layer of the potato one inch deep, season with
salt and pepper, sprinkle a portion of the flour over each layer,
add a part of the butter in bits. Then add another layer of
the potato and seasoning, as before, and continue until the re-
quired amount is used. It is advisable not to have more than

VEGETABLES 40?

two or three layers because of difficulty in cooking. Add milk
until it can be seen between the slices of potato, cover and bake
(350^-400° F.) until potatoes are tender when pierced with a
fork (1-1/4 hours). Remove the cover during the last fifteen
minutes to brown the top. Serve from the baking-dish.

FRANCONIA POTATOES

Select medium-sized potatoes, pare and place them in the
baking-pan with the roast, allowing an hour and a quarter for
their cooking. Turn them often and baste with the gravy from
the roast. Serve them arranged about the meat on the platter.
If you wish to shorten the cooking time, parboil them for fifteen
minutes before putting them into the roasting-pan, and allow
forty-five minutes for the roasting.

DUTCH POTATOES

6 potatoes 6 slices fat salt pork or bacon

6 frankfurter sausages Pepper

Scrub medium-sized potatoes; pare or leave the skins on as
preferred. With an apple-corer cut a tunnel through the center
of each, lengthwise. Draw through each cavity one of the
frankfurters. Place in a dripping-pan and lay a blanket of
fat salt pork or a thick slice of bacon on each potato. Pepper
lightly and bake in a very hot oven (450°-500° F.) until the
potatoes are tender, basting occasionally with the drippings and
a little hot water.

POTATO PUFF OR SOUFFLE

2 cups hot mashed potatoes 2 tablespoons butter or other

2 eggs fat

1 cup milk

To the mashed potatoes add the fat, the egg-yolks which have
been beaten until very light, and the milk. Stir until well
blended and then fold in the stiffly beaten egg-,Whites. Mix
lightly and pile the mass in a well-greased baking-dish. Set in
a pan containing hot water and bake in a moderate oven (375°
F.) twenty to thirty minutes. Serve at once.

DESIGN FOR EATIN(
BRUSSELS SPROUTS IN
CHICKEN RING MOLD
FLANKED WITH WHOLE
CARROTS AND ACCENTS OF
PARSLEY AND PIM1ENT0

.*i^

%r#

WHOLE BOILED SQUASH SERVED
ON A PARSLEY BED, RINGED WITH
TOMATO AND CUCUMBER SLICES

Wl.

i4s J

4o8

SAVORY POTATO CAKES

2 cups, hot riced potatoes y^ teaspoon paprika

1 ^^g Sifted bread-crumbs

2 tablespoons butter or other 2 tablespoons chopped mint
fat leaves

Yz teaspoon salt

Add the egg-yolk, fat and seasonings to the potatoes. Shape
into cakes, dip into the slightly beaten egg-white, which has
been diluted with two tablespoons water, roll in crumbs and fry
in deep fat (375°-390° F.) until brown.

JULIENNE POTATO WITH SAVORY SAUCE

2 cups potato cut in strings 1 cup milk

1 small onion 1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon mixed herbs Pepper

2 tablespoons fat Grated cheese
2 tablespoons flour

Cut the raw, pared potatoes into long match-like strips. Cook
them in boiling water until tender. Drain and turn into a
warm dish. Brown the chopped onion and the herbs in the
fat. Add the flour, stirring thoroughly, add the milk, salt and
pepper and cook in a double boiler twenty minutes. Strain and
pour over the cooked potato. Sprinkle with grated cheese and
serve.

MASHED POTATOES

6 medium-sized potatoes 2 tablespoons butter

Hot milk or cream Salt and white pepper

Pare and boil the potatoes. Drain, and set the saucepan in a
warm place with the cover off for a minute or two to dry the
potatoes thoroughly. Mash the potatoes in the saucepan in
which they were boiled, or turn them out into a warm dish
and put through the ricer into the same saucepan. Work
quickly so that they will not get cold. Add the butter, season
to taste, and beat, adding milk or cream a little at a time until
the potatoes are light and moist.

For Potato Cups — Pile into a large teacup and make a hol-
low with the bottom of a smaller tumbler or bottle. Slip out
carefully onto the serving plate. Keep hot until filled and
served.

VEGETABLES 409

MASHED POTATOES AU GRATIN

6 potatoes riced 2 eggs

3 tablespoons fat ^ cup grated cheese

Yz teaspoon salt Yz cup buttered crumbs
Yz teaspoon paprika

Add fat, seasoning and eggs to the hot riced potatoes. Beat
until light and mound on a baking-dish. Cover with grated
cheese and then with buttered crumbs. Bake (400° F.) ten
minutes, or until the crumbs are brown.

DUCHESS POTATOES

2 cups riced potatoes 2 egg-yolks

2 tablespoons fat Salt and paprika

Mix riced potato, fat and beaten yolks of eggs, reserving a
little of the yolk for brushing the cakes. Add a little salt and
paprika. Shape by means of a pastry-bag and tube into leaves,
crowns, pyramids, etc. Brush over with beaten egg-yolk to
which one teaspoon of water has been added. Brown in a hot
oven (400°-450° F.).

FRENCH FRIED POTATOES

No. 1 — ^Wash and pare potatoes and cut into eighths length-
wise. Dry between towels and fry in deep fat (395° F.).
Drain on soft paper, sprinkle with salt and serve in an un-
covered dish.

No. 2 — Cut uncooked potatoes into blocks measuring about
three-fourths of an inch each way, and place them in boiling
water. Cook until almost done, ten or eleven minutes being
usually required. Then drain off all the water and allow Rye
minutes for the escape of steam. Fry them a few at a time in
deep fat (395° F. ) . Drain on soft paper placed on a hot plate.
Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

BELGIAN BAKED POTATOES

Prepare potatoes as for French fried. Dip them in melted fat
and lay them in a shallow pan, being sure that the pieces do not
overlap. Bake in a quick oven (400° -450° F.) until brown on
top, turn carefully and continue baking until they resemble

410

French fried potatoes. Baste them with more fat during bak-
ing, if necessary. When done, sprinkle with salt and serve
piping hot.

POTATO CHIPS OR SARATOGA POTATOES

Wash and pare potatoes and shave into very thin slices. Soak
them for one hour in cold water, then drain and dry on a towel.
Fry in deep fat (395° F.) a few slices at a time until light
brown, keeping them in motion with a skimmer. Lay them on
soft paper to drain. Sprinkle lightly with salt, and serve.

In cool weather, enough potato chips may be cooked at one
time to last a week or ten days. They should be kept in a cool
dry place and should always be reheated in the oven until
crisp, before serving.

AMERICAN FRIED OR BROWNED POTATOES

No. 1 — Cut boiled potatoes into slices one-fourth of an inch
thick. Heat a very little fat in a frying-pan and saute the
slices, browning on both sides. Season with salt and pepper.

No. 2 — Chop the potatoes in a chopping-bowl until the pieces
measure one-half inch or less, and add them to the hot fat in the
frying-pan. Season with salt and pepper and saute, stirring
constantly, until the potatoes look yellow and are cooking
well. Then cover the pan, set it in a slow heat for five minutes,
and serve in a heated dish.

HASHED BROWN POTATOES

2 tablespoons oil or drip- 6 boiled potatoes

pings Salt and pepper

Chop the potatoes, adding salt, and a dash of pepper. Heat
the fat in a frying-pan, and add the chopped potatoes to the
depth of one inch. Press the potatoes down in the pan, packing
them firmly. Cook slowly, without stirring, until the potato is
brown. Then begin at one side of the pan and fold the pota-
toes over on the other like an omelet, packing closely together.
Turn out on to a hot serving platter and serve.

VEGETABLES 4ii

CREAMED POTATOES

No. 1.

2 cups cold boiled or baked lYz cups medium white sauce

potatoes Salt and pepper

Cut potatoes into small pieces and mix with the white sauce.
Cook together gently until the potatoes are thoroughly heated
through. Season to taste.

No. 2 — Slice boiled potatoes very thin. Turn them into a
frying-pan with two tablespoons melted butter and pour in
milk until it almost covers them. Stew, uncovered, over a low
heat, without stirring, for twenty or twenty-five minutes. Tip
the pan a little every five minutes and baste the potatoes with
the milk. If the potatoes are sliced thin enough, the starch in
them will thicken the milk and the result will be creamy and
delicious, with all the milk stewed down so that no liquid re-
mains. Add salt and pepper to taste. If part cream is used^
the dish is even more delicious.

No. 3 — (New Potatoes)

1 dozen small potatoes 2 tablespoons fat

2 tablespoons flour Salt Pepper

1 cup milk Paprika or parsley

Small new potatoes are delicious when served with a cream
sauce. Scrape the potatoes until no speck of the skin remains,
boil until tender and drain. Add salt just before cooking is
completed.

Make a sauce of the fat, flour, milk and seasonings. Place
potatoes in the serving-dish, pour the sauce over them, dust
with a sprinkling of paprika or chopped parsley and serve at
once. This makes a particularly nice dish for luncheon.

DELMONICO POTATOES

2 cups cooked potatoes, diced Salt and pepper
2 cups medium white sauce Buttered crumbs

Mix potatoes and sauce, add salt and pepper, and pour into a
buttered baking dish; cover with crumbs and bake ten minutes
in a hot oven (400° F.).

412

POTATOES AU GRATIN

Creamed potatoes No. 1 2 to 4 tablespoons grated

1 teaspoon minced parsley cheese

1 cup buttered crumbs

Follow" directions for creamed potatoes No. 1 adding the
parsley. Turn into greased baking-dish, sprinkle with cheese,
cover with buttered crumbs and bake in a hot oven (400° F.)
until crumbs are brown.

POTATO DROPS

2 cups mashed potatoes 2 eggs

(without any milk) Salt and pepper

Mix the mashed, seasoned potato and the beaten eggs. Drop
the mixture from a spoon into the hot fat (375° -3 90° F.) and
fry until a golden brown, (2-3 minutes) then drain on brown
paper and serve with a garnish of parsley. If the spoon is
dipped into boiling water after every using, each drop will re-
tain the shape of the spoon.

POTATO O'BRIEN

6 medium-sized potatoes Chopped pimientos

Salt Onion-juice

Wash, pare and cut potatoes into half-inch dice. Dry be-
tween towels. Fry in hot fat (395° F.) until a delicate brown.
Drain on soft paper, sprinkle with salt, then saute them in just
enough fat to keep them from burning, adding minced pi-
mientos and a few drops of onion-juice. They should be tossed
frequently during cooking, and not pressed close to the pan.

POTATOES PERSILLADE

12 small new potatoes or Butter

6 medium-sized old pota- Juice of one-half lemon

toes ^ cup minced parsley

These are dependent upon parsley, not only for their name
but for their attractive appearance. Scrape new potatoes. Pare
old potatoes and cut the size of a small egg or with a vegetable
scoop cut them into balls. Boil until tender. Add salt just

VEGETABLES 413

before cooking is completed. Drain, place in a saucepan with
suflScient butter to coat all the potatoes, add the lemon-juice
and sprinkle with minced parsley. The potatoes should be well
coated with parsley when served. These are excellent with
boiled fish.

LYONNAISE POTATOES

2 cups boiled potatoes, diced 2 tablespoons fat

1 tablespoon minced onion 1 tablespoon chopped parsley

The potatoes should be rather underdone to produce the best
results. Season with salt and pepper. Saute the onion in fat
until yellow, add the diced potato and stir with a fork until
all sides are brown, being careful not to break the potatoes.
Add more fat if necessary. When done, turn the potatoes out
upon a hot dish, sprinkle parsley over the top, and serve hot.

SPANISH POTATOES

1 tablespoon minced onion 2 cups cold boiled potatoes,

2 tablespoons chopped green diced

pepper J/2 cup cold cooked ham,

2 tablespoons chopped chopped

pimiento 1 teaspoon salt

4 tablespoons oil or cooking J/2 teaspoon paprika

fat

Saute the onion, pepper and pimiento in the fat until light
brown, add the diced potatoes, the chopped ham and seasonings
and cook until thoroughly heated through.

MASHED POTATO BALLS .

2 cups cold mashed potatoes Butter

1 egg-yolk Salt and pepper

Mix cold mashed potato with the beaten egg-yolk and shape
the mixture into balls. Place the balls in a greased pan and
make a depression on the top of each, put a bit of butter in each
depression and brown in the oven (400° -450° F.).

PRINCESS POTATOES

2 cups cold mashed potatoes Melted fat

If the potato is cold and firm, cut into strips two inches long,
one inch wide and one-half inch thick, otherwise shape into

414

flat cakes one-half inch thick. Dip the strips or cakes first into
the melted fat and then into the egg, which has been slightly-
beaten, and lay them carefully on a greased pan. Cook in a hot
oven (400''-450° F.) until brown.

BOILED SWEET POTATOES

Follow directions for boiled white potatoes (See Index).

BAKED SWEET POTATOES

Follow directions for baked white potatoes (See Index).

GLAZED OR CANDIED SWEET POTATOES

No. 1.

6 sweet potatoes 1 cup brown or maple sugar

Salt and pepper y^ cup water

Butter

Boil the potatoes without paring them, and when tender
drain and strip off the skins. Make a sirup by boiling to-
gether the sugar and water. Cut each potato in half or in
thick slices, dip each piece into the sirup and lay it in a greased
baking-dish. Season with salt and pepper and bits of butter.
When all the potato is in the dish, pour over it any sirup that
remains and bake in a quick oven (400° -4 50° F.) until the
potatoes are brown. They will brown quickly.

No. 2 — ^Use the same quantities as for No. 1. Pare the po-
tatoes and boil until about half done. Drain, cut in lengthwise
slices, and lay in a shallow greased pan. Spread generously with
butter and pour over all the sirup. Bake in a moderate oven
(350°-400° F.) basting frequently with the sirup until the
potatoes are transparent. It may be necessary to add more
sirup during the baking. An hour or more is usually required
for these potatoes.

SWEET POTATO PUFF

2 cups mashed sweet potato Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons fat - y^ cup milk or cream

To the mashed sweet potatoes add the melted fat, seasonings
and milk. Beat the egg-yolk and white separately, add the

. VEGETABLES 415

yolk to the potato mixture, and then fold in the white. Put
into a baking-dish or individual molds, set in a pan containing
I hot water and bake (375° F.) until puffy and brown.

SWEET POTATO WITH PINEAPPLE

6 small sweet potatoes Y^ cup honey

y^ as much pineapple as J/^ cup water

potato

Boil the potatoes with the skins on. When cool, peel and cut
them in pieces one-quarter of an inch thick. Mix honey and
hot water. Just cover the bottom of a baking-dish with the
mixture, add the sweet potatoes and sHced pineapple. Pour the
remaining honey mixture over them and bake for ten minutes
in the oven (400° R).

CREOLE SWEET POTATOES

6 large sweet potatoes Grated nutmeg

Salt 1 cup rich brown stock

Celery salt Few drops of caramel
White pepper

Prepare potatoes by parboiling them for twenty minutes.
Remove skins and cut potatoes in halves. Place the pieces in a
shallow baking-pan, sprinkle with salt, celery salt, white pepper
and grated nutmeg. Pour into the pan the stock, to which a
few drops of caramel have been added, and bake in a quick
oven (400° -4 50° F.) until tender and slightly browned. Baste
frequently with the stock. These may be served as a border
around planked fish.

MASHED SWEET POTATO CARAMEL

2 cups mashed sweet potato Yz cup maple sirup

Milk 54 cup butter

Pepper and salt

Left-over sweet potatoes, either baked or boiled, may Be iise3
for this dish. Mash potatoes and add sufficient milk or cream
to make a smooth, soft paste. Season with pepper and salt. Put
into a well-greased casserole or baking-dish, suitable for serving
at table, and pour in thick maple sirup which has been boiled
with butter. Bake (400° F.) until the top begins to caramel-
ize.

4i6

SWEET POTATO WAFFLES

4 tablespoons fat 1 cup mashed sweet potato

1 tablespoon sugar 2 teaspoons baking-powder

Yx cup flour Salt

1 egg Cayenne

1 cup milk Nutmeg

Mix the fat and sugar to a cream, stir in the well-beaten egg-
yolk, the potato, milk and seasonings, and beat well until
smooth. Fold in the stiffly beaten egg-white. Bake in a heated
waffle-iron until golden brown. Serve, dusted with sugar and
cinnamon^ as an accompaniment to roast duck or turkey.

CREAMED RADISHES

lYz cups large, strongly 1 cup milk

flavored radishes 2 tablespoons fat

2 tablespoons flour Salt and pepper

"Wash, pare and slice the radishes. Boil until tender. Make a
white sauce of the flour, fat, milk and seasonings. Combine
radishes and sauce and serve. The flavor is not unlike spicy
turnips and they make a pleasant novelty served with steak or
chops.

BOILED RICE

1 cup rice 3 quarts water or more 1 tablespoon salt

Wash the rice; drop it into the salted boiling water; and boil
rapidly, uncovered, for fifteen or twenty minutes, or until the
kernels are soft when pressed between the thumb and finger.
Place in a colander (saving the water for soup) and pour boil-
ing water over the rice to remove the loose starch and separate
the grains. Drain and place in the oven with the door open
for a few minutes, to allow the cereal to dry out. The grains
should be separate and distinct.

CURRY OF RICE

1 cup rice 1 to 2 tablespoons curry-

2 tablespoons fat powder

1 teaspoon chopped onion 2 teaspoons salt

lYz cups boiling water 54 teaspoon pepper

Wash the rice well. Place fat and onion in a stew-pan and
cook them until the onion is yellow, add the rice and stir the

VEGETABLES 4^7

whole over a hot fire for five minutes. Draw the pan out of
the heat, season with the curry-powder, salt and pepper, stir
well and pour in the boiling water. Cover the stew-pan and
boil rapidly for ten minutes, then cook very slowly for forty
minutes.

Curry of rice is appropriate with any kind of meat dish that
has been prepared with a sauce.

RICE A LA CREOLE

1 onion 2 cups cooked tomatoes

1 slice cooked ham Salt

1 tablespoon fat Paprika

1 cup boiled rice Bread-crumbs

Chop onion and ham very fine. Add fat, boiled rice, and
tomatoes seasoned with salt and paprika. Mix thoroughly, put
into a baking-dish, cover with bread-crumbs and bake (400°
F.) for fifteen minutes.

CREAMED SALSIFY OR OYSTER PLANT

Wash and scrape the salsify, throwing it immediately into
cold water to which a little vinegar or lemon- juice has been
added, to prevent discoloration. Cut in inch slices and cook
in boiling water until tender, adding salt just before cooking
is completed. When tender, drain and combine with medium
white sauce. Serve with tiny fried sausage balls.

FRIED SALSIFY

Follow directions for fried parsnips (See Index) .

STEAMED OR BAKED SUMMER SQUASH

Cut the squash into pieces of medium size, and remove the
seeds and the soft mesh surrounding them. Steam or bake until
tender. Serve in the shell or scrape from shell, mash, and
place, uncovered, for ten minutes in a good heat to dry, stirring
frequently. Season with butter, salt and pepper.

FRIED SQUASH

2 white squash Egg and crumbs Salt and pepper

The white "button" squash, about four inches in diameter^
are best when fried. Pare and cut the squash into thin slices.

4i8

dip in seasoned crumbs, then in beaten egg^ then in more crumbs,
and fry in deep fat (395 ° F.) from four to five minutes. "When
the slices are brown, drain on soft paper. Serve on a platter or
other flat dish. Fried squash makes an excellent luncheon dish.

SQUASH IN THE SHELL

1 squash Egg
3 tablespoons butter Milk
Salt and pepper

Cut oflF the top of a small squash, remove the seeds and
stringy portion, place in a pan and boil, steam or bake about
two hours, until tender. Remove the pulp from the shell, being
careful to keep the large shell intact. Mash the pulp and season
it with salt, pepper and butter.

Return the mixture to the shell, smooth the surface to a dome
shape, score with a knife, brush over with milk and beaten egg,
add bits of butter and place in a quick oven (400° F.) for a
few minutes to brown. Or leave the pulp in the squash, season
well and fill center with ham a la king, chicken a la king,
creamed salmon or sausage mixtures.

BOILED SPINACH

No. 1 — ^American Style

2 pounds spinach 3 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper

Remove roots and wilted leaves of the spinach. Wash in
several waters, until all trace of sand has disappeared. Place in
a large kettle without additional water; the water which clings
to the leaves is sufficient. Cover the kettle and cook with low
heat until the spinach is tender. The time of cooking depends
on the age of the spinach. Long cooking darkens it. Salt the
water just before cooking is completed. When done, drain,
chop, season with salt, pepper and butter and one tablespoon
lemon-juice, if desired.

Spinach Mold —

1 peck spinach, cooked and 1^ ^^P butter

chopped iy2 cups bread crumbs

3 unbeaten eggs 34 teaspoon pepper
y^ cup milk 1 teaspoon salt

VEGETABLES 419

Combine all ingredients, turn into a buttered ring mold and
steam 2 hours. Unmold and garnish with hard-cooked eggs and
carrots. Fill center of mold with mashed potatoes or creamed
mushrooms.

CREAMED SPINACH

2 pounds spinach Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon butter 2 tablespoons cream

2 hard-cooked egg-yolks

Cook spinach according to directions for boiled spinach No. 1,
drain well, and chop fine. Return to fire, add butter, salt
and pepper, and stir until the butter is melted, then add cream
and chopped yolks and mix well.

SPINACH SOUFFLE

2 cups cooked spinach, fresh or canned 2 eggs

This is a satisfactory way to dispose of left-over cooked
spinach. To the spinach add egg-yolks beaten, place in a
granite saucepan, heat and stir over the fire until the eg§ setS|
then remove from the heat and when cold add the beaten egg-
whites. Fill individual baking-dishes one-half full of this mix-
ture. Set the dishes in a pan of hot water and bake in a moder-
ate oven (375° F.) from twenty to thirty minutes. Serve at
once to prevent falling.

SPINACH IN EGGS

2 cups boiled spinach Mustard

6 eggs Butter

Salt Vinegar
Red pepper

"While the spinach is cooking, cook the eggs hard. Cut eggs
in halves crosswise and remove the yolks. Cut a slice from the
bottom of each cooked egg-white so that it will stand on a
platter. Season the yolks with red pepper, mustard, butter and
salt. Mix thoroughly with vinegar to taste. Fill the egg-cups
with the spinach, mounding it high, and put the rest around
the eg§. Put the prepared yolks in a ricer and squeeze over all.

420

SUCCOTASH

2 cups green corn or Salt and pepper

1 cup dried corn 1 cup milk

2 cups fresh Lima, string or 4 tablespoons butter

butter beans or 1 cup dried

Lima beans

If fresh vegetables are used, cut the corn from the cob. Cover
the beans with the least possible amount of boiling water, to
prevent scorching, and cook until tender. Drain off the water,
add the corn and the milk and cook slowly until the corn is
tender. Add the butter and other seasoning.

"When dried corn and beans are used, soak both separately-
over night. In the morning, cover the beans with fresh water,
and boil them very gently until tender. Do not drain the water
from the corn, but reduce heat so it will cook slowly. When
the beans are tender, drain and add them to the corn, allowing
only water enough to cover. Cook slowly until tender and drain
off water to save for soup. Add the milk and seasoning.

STEWED TOMATOES

6 tomatoes, fresh or canned Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons butter Crumbs or flour

Pour boiling water on fresh tomatoes, and after they have
remained covered one minute drain them and plunge them into
cold water. Slip off the skins, remove the hard stem ends, and
cut the tomatoes in pieces. Stew them in their own juice in a
graniteware or porcelain-lined kettle until tender, add butter,
salt, and pepper. Bread-crumbs or cracker-crumbs, or a little
flour blended with the butter, may be added for thickening.

FRIED TOMATOES

6 tomatoes Crumbs Salt and pepper

Select firm, ripe tomatoes, wash them and cut in half-inch
slices without removing the skins. Season fine crumbs with salt
and pepper, dip each slice of tomato in the crumbs, and saute in
hot fat. Serve hot.

VEGETABLES 4^1

BAKED TOMATOES

6 tomatoes 1 cup bread-crumbs

4 tablespoons fat 1 teaspoon sugar

Salt and pepper

Peel the tomatoes and cut them in slices one-fourth inch
thick. Place a layer of tomatoes in a pudding-dish, and sprinkle
over them a little salt and pepper. Rub the fat into the crumbs
"with the sugar. Spread the mixture thickly upon the tomatoes,
using all of it, and add another layer of tomatoes. Add bits
of butter or other fat, sprinkle with dry crumbs, and bake
(350''-400° F.) twenty minutes.

BROILED TOMATOES

6 tomatoes Melted butter

Salt and pepper

Choose firm, round tomatoes, cut them into slices, three-
quarters inch thick, dust each slice with salt and pepper, place
in a greased broiler and broil tender. Turn once carefully.
Add melted butter and serve at once.

SCALLOPED TOMATOES

6 large fresh tomatoes or Bread-crumbs

1 quart cooked tomatoes, Butter or other fat

fresh or canned Grated cheese, if desired

Salt and pepper

Skin fresh tomatoes and cut them into slices. If using cooked
tomatoes, drain off the juice, using only the pulp. Place a layer
of tomato in a greased baking-dish, add a seasoning of salt and
pepper then a thin layer of bread-crumbs. Cut the fat into
tiny pieces and lay on the crumbs. Then add another layer of
tomato and proceed until the materials are used, having crumbs
for the top layer. Add bits of fat and bake for thirty minutes
in a moderate oven (3 50° -400° F.). Serve in the baking-dish.
Grated cheese may be added to each layer, or to the top one
only.

422

STUFFED TOMATOES

No. 1.

6 tomatoes 2 tablespoons fat

1 Yz cups soft bread-crumbs 1 teaspoon salt

% teaspoon pepper

Tbe tomatoes should be very firm, smooth, and of equal size.
Cut a piece from the stem end of each tomato, and remove the
centers without breaking the walls. Make a stufiing of the
centers of the tomatoes, crumbs, seasonings, and melted fat and
mix well. Sprinkle each tomato well with salt and pepper and.
fill with the stufiing, packing it in quite solidly.

Place a small piece of butter on the top of each, arrange the
tomatoes in a baking-dish and bake in a moderate oven (350°-
400° F.) until tender. Serve hot in the baking-dish.

No. 2 — Indian Style.

6 tomatoes J/g teaspoon pepper

3 tablespoons rice 54 teaspoon garlic clove

1 tablespoon fat 1 teaspoon chopped celery

1 slice bread A little chopped parsley

2 tablespoons milk Thyme

2 hard-cooked egg-yolks 54 teaspoon curry-powder

Yz teaspoon salt

Cut the tops from the tomatoes and remove the pulp. "Wa^
the rice carefully, put it into a saucepan with one-half cup
salted boiling water and the tomato pulp and cook until the
rice is soft. Add the fat, the bread soaked in the milk, the
mashed egg-yolk and seasonings. Stuff the tomato shells with
this mixture, replace the tops and place in a baking-dish.

Bake in a moderate oven (3 50° -400° F.) until the tomatoes
are soft (about twenty minutes). The curry-powder gives an
unusual flavor to the tomatoes, but may be omitted.

MASHED TURNIPS

1 pound white or yellow 3 tablespoons butter

turnips Salt and pepper

Wash, pare and slice the turnips and cook in boiling water
until soft, adding salt just before the cooking is completed.
Drain and mash the turnips in the stew-pan and stand the pan,

VEGETABLES 423

uncovered, over a low fire for ten minutes to dry the turnips
well, stirring them frequently. Add butter and pepper and
more salt if needed.

TURNIPS IN CREAM

1 pound white or yellow 4 tablespoons flour
turnips 4 tablespoons fat

2 cups milk Salt and pepper

Pare the turnips, cut them in cubes; cook until tender.
Make a white sauce of the flour, fat, milk and seasonings. Pour
sauce over turnip cubes and serve.

TURNIP SHELLS OR CUPS

Pare the turnip and remove the center, leaving a shell one-
half inch in thickness. Cook shell in boiling water until tender.
Just before cooking is completed, add the salt. Cook the center
in the same way and use for stuffing cup or serve as mashed
turnips.

The turnip cups may be used as cases for creamed or buttered
peas, carrots, beets, or any suitable vegetable or meat.

VEGETABLE MARROW, FRIED

"Wash and pare a vegetable marrow, and scoop out the in-
side. Cook in boiling water for about fifteen minutes^ and
then drain and slice in inch slices, or cut in pieces of any desired
size. Roll in flour, dip in beaten egg which has been diluted
with water, roll in fine crumbs and fry in deep fat (395° F.).
After frying, drain the pieces on absorbent paper^ sprinkle widi
salt and pepper and serve hot.

To Bake Vegetable Marrow, cut in half between the ends;
peel each half, scoop out seeds and loose pulp. Fill each half with
seasoned fresh Hamburg, diced onion and bread crumbs (beef
loaf p. 246) or chopped leftover meats, chopped onion, green
or red peppers and cooked rice. Fit halves together and truss
with string or use skewers in opposite directions. Bake or simmer
in deep pot or baking dish, covered with heavy seasoned tomato
sauce, until marrow is transparent but not too well done. Serve
by slicing through so each service is a complete circle.

SALADS

FRUITS, nuts, uncooked and cooked vegetables and some
cooked meats, fish and fowl, served cold and dressed with
condiments, oils and acids, are known as salads.

Utensils Needed for Salad Making

A chilled earthenware bowl is excellent for mixing salad in-
gredients. Two forks or a fork and a spoon are better to use
in folding together the ingredients than a spoon alone, because
they do not crush the materals so much as a single utensil.

A sharp-edged knife or vegetable cutter is necessary for slic-
ing vegetables or fruits. Where fruit pulp is to be removed
from the thin white membrane enclosing it, a thin narrow
knife slightly curved at the tip is useful. A pair of shears can
be used for many of the processes of salad making, such as
shredding lettuce, clipping oflf wilted or discolored edges, etc.

Various fancy shapes for molding individual salads may be
bought, or tea-cups or small bowls may be used as molds.
Gelatin salads may be put into pans and cut in square or fancy
shapes after they have hardened. The cube trays of mechanical
refrigerators are excellent for molding gelatin.

Materials for Salads

Vegetables — Leaf vegetables, such as head lettuce, curly
lettuce, endive, chicory, romaine, water cress, celery and cab-
bage, make very attractive salads served alone with a dressing
or in combination with other materials.

Tomatoes, cucumbers, celery, cabbage and ground carrots are
excellent uncooked materials for salad, as are also Bermuda or
Spanish onions in thin wafer-like slices or young spring onions
marinated in French dressing.

Many cooked vegetables, such as peas, carrots, beans, beets,
cauliflower, spinach, asparagus and potatoes, are used in salad
making, alone or in combination.

Fruits — ^The fruits most commonly used in the preparation
of salads are oranges, bananas, apples, cherries, grapefruit,

424

SALADS 425

grapes, peacRes, pears and pineapple. "Watermelon or cantaloupe
adds a delicious flavor to a fruit salad.

Dried Fruits — ^Dates, figs and raisins give variety to fruit
salads.

Meats — Chicken always makes a delicious salad. Veal and
pork may be combined with chicken and it is difficult to detect
their use. They may be used alone in salads, also.

Crab, lobster, shrimp, oysters, salmon, tuna fish and sardines
are most commonly used in fish salads. Any firm-fleshed cooked
fish may be diced and combined with other materials.

Cheese — Cream cheese or cottage cheese, served in mounds
on lettuce leaves, makes an attractive salad, with bar-le-duc
or other jelly or jam as a garnish. It can also be mixed with
green peppers or pimientoes, rolled in nuts, served with pine-
apple or molded in a loaf and sliced.

Eggs — ^The most common egg salad is the "deviled egg," or
salad egg. Hard-cooked eggs can be cut in slices or quarters
or fancy shapes and served on a bed of lettuce leaves with a
dressing or used with other ingredients in a vegetable or fish
salad.

Herbs — Such herbs as chervil, mint, parsley, peppergrass,
sorrel and tarragon may be added to salad to give a pungent
flavor.

Fennel (finochio) tops, or root and stem of anise flavor, dande-
lion, chard, escarole, celery cabbage or cooked zucchini are used
both as body of the salad and as flavoring. Those who have a
garden will find dill, nasturtium leaves and seeds, catnip and
rose geranium leaves usable.

Important Points in Salad Making

Washing Ingredients — ^Wash salad greens and examine to
insure the removal of all aphids. Then soak in cold water for
half an hour to crisp, and dry on a towel or by shaking in a wire
basket.

Chilling Ingredients — ^All ingredients, fruits, vegetables,
and dressing, should be chilled (see directions on next page for
keeping materials) before being folded together. The bowl
used should be chilled; also the plates upon which the salad is
served.

Frozen Salads — ^This name may seem misleading because
pieces of fruit or vegetable in salads should never be actually
frozen. Combined with whipped cream and mayonnaise, the

426

mixture is frozen like mousse, but it should not be frozen long
enough to harden the fruit or vegetable. Salads made of vege-
table or fruit pulp may be frozen. The freezing can be done
by packing in ice and salt or by placing the mixture in the
drawers of a mechanically cooled refrigerator.

Keeping Materials — ^Lettuce, most vegetables and many
fruits may be kept for days by wrapping in a damp cloth or
paper bag and placing on ice. In a mechanically cooled refrig-
erator, lettuce and other salad greens keep best if they are
washed and placed in closely covered enamel or porcelain con-
tainers with a very little water.

Cutting Materials — Salad materials should be cut in uni-
form, well-defined pieces small enough so that they will not
lose their shape in the folding process. If part of the celery to
be used is tough, cut it in fine pieces and cut the tender parts
in larger pieces. In this way the toughness will not be detected.

"When both the dark and light meat of chicken are used, dice
the dark in small cubes and the light in larger cubes. This gives
a more pleasing appearance to the salad. If veal or pork is
used to extend the chicken, dice it finer than the chicken and
its presence will not be detected.

Marinating Salads — A marinade is used to give flavor to
salad materials and is made by mixing oil, salt, and lemon-juice
or vinegar (sometimes onion-juice) . The vegetables, fish or
meat may stand an hour or so in the marinade before using.
"When several vegetables are to be used, each one should be
marinated separately. For serving, these vegetables may be
combined, or placed on lettuce leaves in small individual
mounds, as preferred.

Addition of Salad Dressing — ^The dressing should never
be folded into the salad until time for serving, except in the
case of a salad like potato salad, when it is preferable for the
dressing to soak in.

Arrangement of Salad — ^The lettuce leaf should have the
stem end cut off so that this ragged part does not hang over the
edge of the plate. Care should be taken that the garnish is
carefully placed.

Place the salad o© the lettuce leaf carefully so that it will
not fall apart and spread ungracefully over the plate. No part
of the salad should extend beyond the edge of the plate.

SALADS 427

Garnishes for Salads

Chives, mint, chervil, parsley and similar small greens may be
minced and sprinkled over a green salad.

Strips of pimiento and green pepper, or a dash of paprika
may be used to give life to a colorless salad.

A chapon is a small piece of bread rubbed with garlic. When
placed in a salad-bowl it gives a delicious flavor to the salad.

The outside leaves of a head of lettuce may be used as garnish
for a salad, reserving the heart for heart-of-lettuce salad.

MOLDED SALADS

Among the most decorative ways to serve jellied salad are the
form mold and the ring mold. The latter lends itself to many
additional touches since the center may be used for decorative
vegetables, a pile of cut jelly of contrasting color or the bowl
of salad dressing. Of exact size to fit, the bowl may be of glass,
china or silver. Be sure the plate onto which the ring is un-
molded is large enough for all the decoration planned. See page
344.

COLD MARINADE

3 tablespoons oil 1 teaspoon salt

6 tablespoons lemon- juice or Yz teaspoon pepper

vinegar |/2 teaspoon onion-juice

For fish, use three tablespoons vinegar and three tablespoons
lemon-juice. Mix the ingredients thoroughly in the order
given. The onion-juice may be omitted.

For hot marinade, see Index.

Vegetable Salads
ASPARAGUS SALAD

€ rings cut from green pepper Lettuce leaves

or lemon French dressing

24 stalks cold boiled aspara- Yz tablespoon tomato
gus, fresh or canned catchup

Cut rings about one-third inch wide. If lemon is used, re-
move the pulp, leaving only the peel. Slip four stalks of cold

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428

asparagus through each ring and arrange on crisp lettuce leaves.
Place each serving on a salad plate or arrange all attractively
on a platter with serving spoon and fork. Serve with French
dressing to which tomato catchup has been added.

CABBAGE SALADS AND ASPIC

Select a small firm head. Cut it in half and with a sharp knife
or a slaw cutter slice it very thin. Cover with cold water and let
stand one-half hour. Drain, wrap in a cloth and place on ice or
in a cold place until ready to use. Combine with any salad dress-
ing, or fold into one package of gelatin prepared according to
directions, and mold.

Cole Slaw — No. 1 —

J/2 head cabbage
6 eggs

Yz cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon mustard

2 teaspoons melted butter
^ cup vinegar

Cut the cabbage in several parts, and wash it well. Remove
the core and any wilted or tough leaves and chop the remainder
with a sharp knife. Cook the eggs hard, chop five of them,
place the chopped cabbage in a salad bowl, add the chopped
eggs, and toss and fold lightly together. Mix the sugar, salt,
mustard, melted butter and vinegar and pour this liquid over
the cabbage and eggs. Toss again lightly with a fork held in
each hand, arrange in a dish, and garnish with the remaining
egg cut in slices.

Cole Slaw — ^No. 2 —

^ cup vinegar
1 Yz teaspoons salt
Y4 teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon sugar
3 eggs

1 tablespoon butter or other
fat

2 tablespoons cream

3 cups cabbage

Heat vinegar and seasonings (including the sugar and fat)
to boiling, beat eggs and add hot vinegar mixture to them very
slowly. Cook in double boiler until the mixture thickens and
then add cream. Remove the dressing from the fire and pour
it while hot over the cabbage. Garnish with rings of hard-
cooked eggs and serve when cold.

SALADS 429

CARDINAL SALAD

2 large beets Mayonnaise made with vine-

2 tablespoons vinegar gar from beets

Yz cup wax beans Lettuce

J/2 cup peas Radishes for a garnish

J/2 cup asparagus tips

Boil beets until tender, slice, cover with vinegar and let stand
until the following day. Drain off the vinegar and use it in
making the mayonnaise. Arrange beans, peas, asparagus tips
and mayonnaise in little rose-like nests of lettuce leaves, and
garnish with radishes.

CARROT SALAD

1 cup grated raw carrot 1 tablespoon lemon-juice

1 cup chopped raw cabbage J4 teaspoon salt

or celery, or cabbage and Mayonnaise or boiled dressing

celery combined Lettuce leaves

Mix the ingredients well and serve on crisp lettuce leaves.
The grated carrot may be served alone on lettuce or may be
combined with cold boiled peas, with chopped nuts and apples,
or with onions and radishes.

CAULIFLOWER AND SHRIMP SALAD

1 cauliflower Lettuce
Mayonnaise dressing Cooked shrimps

Cook the cauliflower in boiling water, drain, and put it, head
down, into a bowl. When cold, place it, stem down, on a shal-
low dish and cover with mayonnaise. Garnish with lettuce ar-
ranged to resemble the leaves of the cauliflower, and add little
clusters of shrimps,

CELERY SALAD

2 cups celery Strips of pimiento or green
Yz cup mayonnaise pepper and celery curls

After thoroughly washing the celery allow it to crisp in cold
water. Then wipe it dry, cut it into inch lengths and these
into lengthwise strips. Place them in a salad-bowl, and add
sufficient mayonnaise dressing to moisten the whole. Garnish

430

with the pimiento or pepper and the celery curls. Serve at once.
Celery salad admits of a wide range of additions, any cold meat,
fish or fowl left from a previous meal being palatable served
in it.

Celery Curls — ^These are made from the tender inner
stalks. Cut in lengths of two or three inches and slit in nar-
row strips almost to the end. Place in water with plenty of
ice. As the slit stalks chill, the ends curl.

CRESS SALAD

1 pint water cress 1 onion French dressing

Pick over the leaves of the cress carefully, removing all
bruised or wilted ones, wash and drain, and with the fingers
break the stems into two-inch lengths. Lay the cress in a salad
bowl, chop the onion very fine, strew it over the cress, add
French dressing and serve.

CRESS AND DANDELION SALAD

1 cup water cress 6 thin slices raw onion

1 cup dandelion greens French dressing

The dandelion should be fresh and young. Wash the leaves
carefully and drain well. Arrange them in a salad bowl with
the cress. Add the slices of onion and pour the French dressing
over all.

CRESS AND WALNUT SALAD

Yz cup walnut meats 1 pint -water cress

1 lemon French dressing

Crack walnuts and remove their meats as nearly as possible
in halves. Squeeze over them the juice of the lemon and let
them stand for a short time. Pick over the water cress and
wash it carefully. Drain it on a napkin and at the last moment
drench it with French dressing. Spread the nuts over it and
give them also a generous sprinkling of the dressing.

CUCUMBER SALAD

3 cucumbers Salt French dressing

Cut about an inch off the point of each cucumber, and pare
carefully. Slice very thin, sprinkle with a little salt, and let
stand ten minutes. Serve with French dressing.

SALADS 431

CUCUMBER JELLY SALAD

1 pint grated cucumber 2 teaspoons cold water
Salt and paprika 6 halves of walnut-meats

2 tablespoons vinegar Mayonnaise

1 tablespoon oil Lettuce leaves

1 teaspoon gelatin

Peel cucumbers, removing most of the white as well as the
green skin. Grate enough to give one pint and season with salt,
paprika, vinegar and oil. Add gelatin mixed with cold water.
Place over the fire until warm and well mixed. Do not boil.
In the bottom of an individual mold put a half kernel of wal-
nut, then pour in the cucumber mixture and when it has cooled,
chill. When ready to serve, turn each mold on to a nest of
young lettuce leaves, and add a spoonful of mayonnaise.

LETTUCE SALAD

Choose for this the crisp center of the lettuce. "Wash it, dry
it well, pull to pieces or cut it into four or six sections, and
arrange it in a salad bowl. Pour over the center of the dish
any dressing preferred. Mayonnaise is frequently used, and
Russian dressing is used even more frequently, perhaps, but
with a heavy dinner the French dressing is to be preferred to
any other.

The following vegetables may be used instead of or with let-
tuce: endive, peppergrass, water cress, nasturtiuni leaves, spin-
ach, chicory, sorrel, dandelion, escarole, and romaine.

LETTUCE AND ONION SALAD

2 lettuce hearts French dressing 1 Spanish onion

Strip off, and set aside for some other purpose, the green
leaves of lettuce. Wash the hearts, pull them to pieces or cut
into sections, and drop into ice-water to crisp them. Peel
the Spanish onion and cut it into thin shavings. Shake the
lettuce in a colander or wire basket to free it from water or dry
on a towel. Fill the salad bowl with alternate layers of the
lettuce and onion slices, sprinkling on each layer a little French
dressing.

432

^^ , POTATO SALAD

No. 1.

1 quart potatoes 2 tablespoons grated onion

2 tablespoons chopped parsley French dressing to moisten

Boil the potatoes with skins on and allow them to cool before
peeling, as it is considered a good thing to have potatoes waxy
rather than mealy for salad. Peel potatoes, cut into small pieces
or thin slices, and mix with parsley, onion, and French dressing.
Set in a cool place for two hours before serving.

No. 2.

1 quart new potatoes 1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1 tablespoon oil Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons vinegar Thin mayonnaise or boiled

1 onion dressing

2 stalks celery Cut beets

1 tablespoon capers Lettuce, lemon

Boil potatoes until done, but not too soft, slice them when
cookd and add oil and vinegar. Chop onion and celery very
fine, and add, with capers, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste.
Pour a thin mayonnaise over all, mixing thoroughly with a
wooden spoon and fork. Garnish with lettuce, a few pieces of
lemon and cut beets.

POTATO AND PEA SALAD

2 cups boiled potatoes, diced Yz cup French dressing
1 cup boiled peas Lettuce, mayonnaise

Pour two-thirds of the French dressing over the diced pota-
toes, and the other third over the cold peas, and set where they
will be chilled. After an hour, combine them and arrange on
lettuce leaves. Garnish with mayonnaise.

SPINACH SALAD

1 pint spinach 2 hard-cooked eggs French dressing

Wash spinach carefully. Select only thick, tender leaves (save
others and stems for cooking) . If too large, tear to size. Shake
off excess water. Chop whites and yolks of eggs separately and
turn into bowl with leaves. Moisten with tart French dressing.
Add any mild-flavored vegetable.

SALADS 433

TOMATO AND LETTUCE SALAD

No. 1.

3 tomatoes Lettuce leaves 6 tablespoons French dressing

Scald the tomatoes, remove the skins and chill the tomatoes.
Just before serving time, cut them in halves, crosswise, and
place one piece, with the outside upward, on each serving-plate
with one or two leaves of white, crisp lettuce underneath. Pour
over each portion a tablespoon of French dressing.

No. 2.

3 tomatoes /4 to ^ cup French dressing

Lettuce 1 tablespoon capers

Select smooth tomatoes about two inches in diameter. Scald,
peel and chill. Cut in quarters or in slices and arrange on a
plate with lettuce leaves or sections of lettuce hearts. Add
the capers to the dressing.

TOMATO AND CELERY SALAD

6 tomatoes ^ to ^ cup mayonnaise

2 cups celery, diced Lettuce leaves

Select firm tomatoes of a good size, scald, peel and chill, cut
a slice from the top of each, and scoop out all the seeds and
soft pulp, being careful not to break the sides. Cut celery into
small dice, mix it with mayonnaise dressing, fill the shells with
mixture, place one teaspoon .of the dressing on top of each
tomato and serve individually on a bed of lettuce leaves, plac-
ing three or four small leaves on each plate and the tomato in
the center.

TOMATO SURPRISE SALAD

6 tomatoes ^ cup mayonnaise dressing

% cup diced cucumber Lettuce

y2 cup diced, cooked chicken Parsley, cauliflower buds
y^ cup chopped nuts

Select medium-sized smooth tomatoes. Scald, peel and chill.
Carefully scoop the inside out of the tomatoes. Remove the
seeds from the pulp. Chill all ingredients, and when ready to
serve, mix the chicken, cucumber, tomato pulp, and nuts with

434

the mayonnaise dressing. Add more salt if needed. Fill the
tomatoes. Arrange on lettuce leaves. Garnish with mayonnaise
and decorate each tomato top with parsley and cauliflower buds.

TOMATO JELLY SALAD

3 cups stewed tomatoes, 1 teaspoon sugar

fresh or canned Salt

^ cup chopped onion 1 tablespoon gelatin

Yz cup chopped celery 54 cup cold water

1 bay-leaf 1 clove Lettuce

54 green pepper pod Mayonnaise

Cook tomatoes with seasonings. Soak gelatin in cold water,
add to boiling tomatoes, strain and pour into cups about the
size of a tomato. Make a nest of small green lettuce leaves for
each mold when serving, and place one tablespoon of mayon-
naise on top of each tomato as it is turned from the mold.

Tomato jelly is often molded in a square pan and cut In
diamonds or cubes, when it makes an attractive garnish.

TOMATO ROSE SALAD

Firm tomatoes Hard-cooked Qgg yolk

Cream cheese Watercress or lettuce

Milk French dressing

Peel tomatoes and chill them. SUghtly soften cream cheese
with milk. Form two rows of petals on each tomato by pressing
level teaspoons of the softened cheese against the side of the to-
mato, then drawing the teaspoon down with a curving motion.
Sprinkle center of each tomato with hard-cooked egg yolk
pressed through a strainer. Serve on crisp watercress or lettuce
with French dressing.

FROZEN FRUIT SALAD

1 pint cream 1 teaspoon powdered sugar

1/4 cups cut up fruit (fre^, 1 teaspoon instantaneous
canned, or candied cherries, gelatin

peaches, pineapple, etc.) 2 tablespoons cold water

34 cup mayonnaise Lettuce

Soak the gelatin In the cold water, melt it over steam, and
beat it into the mayonnaise. Add the sugar to the cream and

SALADS 435

whip it, then combine with the mayonnaise. Stir in the cut-up
fruit. Pack and freeze as directed in the preceding recipe. The
mayonnaise may be omitted and served separately.

ALLIGATOR PEAR SALAD

2 alligator pears French dressing

Lettuce leaves

The alligator pear, or avocado, is now available in all markets
at very reasonable prices throughout the greater part of the
year. Cut each pear into six pieces, giving wedge-shaped sec-
tions, and if these are too large, cut each section again length-
wise. Peel and arrange wedges on beds of lettuce leaves. Either
French dressing or Russian dressing may be used, but the fruit
is so rich that French dressing is preferred by most people.

APRICOT AND BANANA SALAD

2 cups lettuce leaves, shredded Whipped cream or boiled
1 cup sliced bananas dressing

6 stewed apricots

On each plate arrange a bed of shredded lettuce, and on it
place a layer of sliced ripe bananas, topped by the halves of an
apricot. Serve with whipped cream or boiled dressing.

BANANA AND NUT SALAD

3 well ripened bananas Yz cup mayonnaise or boiled
Yz cup chopped nuts dressing

6 leaves lettuce

Peel bananas and cut in two lengthwise. Roll each half in
nut-meats. Place on lettuce leaf and garnish with dressing.
Equal parts of dressing and whipped cream may be used.

COCONUT, CELERY AND APPLE SALAD

1 Y2 cups mixed diced tart 4 tablespoons orange- juice

apples and celery Salt

Yz cup shredded coconut Paprika

1 tablespoon lemon-juice Lettuce leaves

4 tablespoons oil Currant or plum jelly

Mix the apples, celery, and coconut. Sprinkle with the
lemon -juice. Add a French dressing made from the oil and

PEELED MELON FILLED WITH
TOMATO ASPIC AND FROSTED
WITH CREAM CHEESE

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436

orange- juice, with salt and paprika to taste. Line a salad-bowl
with lettuce leaves and pile chilled salad in center. Dot with
currant or plum jelly.

FRENCH FRUIT SALAD

1 orange 1 dozen walnuts

1 banana Lettuce

Yz pound Malaga grapes French dressing

Peel the oranges and cut the sections from the membrane
with a sharp knife or a pair of shears. If the fruit is allowed
to stand in cold water after peeling, the bitter white membrane
will come off easily.

Peel the bananas and cut in quarter-inch slices. Remove the
skins and seeds from the grapes. Break in small pieces, but
do not chop, the walnut-meats. Mix these ingredients
thoroughly and place on ice. When ready to serve, place or
lettuce leaves and serve with French dressing.

GRAPEFRUIT SALAD

Peel grapefruit and free the sections from all membrane and
seeds. Cut sections in half, crosswise; lay on bed of lettuce
leaves and serve with French dressing. Sprinkle with tarragon
leaves or with mint if desired.

GRAPEFRUIT AND GRAPE SALAD

2 cups grapefruit sections Yz cup Malaga grapes, peeled
2 tablespoons grape- juice and seeded

2 tablespoons French dressing

Peel fine large grapefruit and separate the sections, removing
every particle of the bitter white inner skin. Peel and seed the
grapes and mix with the grapefruit. Set, covered, in the refrig-
erator until very cold. Pour over them the grape- juice and
French dressing.

WFHTE GRAPE SALAD

1 pound Malaga grapes Lettuce French dressing or mayonnaise

Peel grapes and remove the seeds by cutting the grapes almost
in two, with a thin sharp knife. Arrange on lettuce leaves
and serve with French dressing or mayonnaise.

kiMh,

SALADS 437

ORANGE SALAD

Peel oranges and free the sections entirely from the mem-
brane. Remove seeds, cut sections in halves crosswise, lay on
bed of lettuce leaves, and serve with French dressing. Sprinkle
with tarragon or with minced green pepper, if desired. Minced
celery may be added.

T,, , PEAR SALAD

No. 1.

3 pears French dressing

Lettuce leaves Strips of pimiento

After paring the fruit, cut in eighths lengthwise and remove
seeds. Arrange on lettuce leaves and serve with French dressing
made from oil and lemon-juice. Garnish with strips of pi-
miento. The dressing will prevent discoloration if it is poured
over the pears at once.

No. 2.

6 pears Yz cup broken walnut-meats

6 stalks celery and stoned olives, chopped

Mayonnaise Lettuce leaves

Salt and pepper

Select well-formed pears and cut off a bit of the broad end
so that the pear will stand steadily on the plate. With a potato-
ball cutter remove the center, leaving enough of the pear to
make a thick cup. Cut the celery into dice, add broken walnut-
meats and chopped olives and mix all together with mayonnaise,
adding a pinch of salt and pepper. Fill the pear cups and serve
on lettuce leaves.

PEAR AND CHERRY SALAD

6 halves of stewed pears, 36 white cherries

fresh or canned Boiled dressing or mayon-

Lettuce leaves naise

Place the half pears on crisp lettuce leaves. Stone the cherries
and arrange them around the pears. Serve with preferred dress-
ing.

438

PINEAPPLE AND NUT SALAD IN TOMATO
BASKETS

1 cup crushed pineapple 6 tomatoes

1 cup broken nut-meats Mayonnaise

French dressing Salt

Mix pineapple with nut-meats and stand in French dressing
in the refrigerator. Peel and cut off the top of each tomato
leaving a strip to form a handle. Carefully scoop out the center
and fill with the pineapple and nuts. Place one teaspoon of
mayonnaise on top of each basket.

PINEAPPLE AND CREAM CHEESE SALAD

6 slices canned pineapple French dressing

1 cup cream cheese Lettuce leaves

Purple grape-juice

Work enough grape-juice into the cream cheese to soften it
so that it can be made into balls with the hands or with butter
paddles. Place a slice of pineapple on a lettuce leaf, put a cheese
ball on top and pour grape- juice and French dressing over all.

TROPICAL SALAD

1 cup cantaloup balls Any desired dressing

6 slices tomatoes Lettuce leaves

Garnish of red pepper

With a vegetable cutter, cut small balls from a cantaloup
that is fairly firm in texture. Arrange several balls on a slice
of tomato which has been placed on a nest of lettuce leaves.
Garnish with pieces of red pepper or green pepper cut in dia-
mond shapes. Serve with any desired dressing.

WALDORF SALAD

1 cup diced apple French dressing

1 cup diced celery Lettuce leaves

Yz cup broken walnut-meats Mayonnaise

Fold together the apple, celery, and nuts with French dress-
ing and serve on lettuce leaves with mayonnaise. Do not allow

SALADS 439

this to stand long before serving, as the nuts will discolor the
fruit.

WASHINGTON SALAD

% cup chopped celery ^ cup canned cherries

34 cup bottoms of artichokes, Y^ cup diced grapefruit pulp

chopped Cheese straws

Pile cheese straws in log-cabin style, on a large plate, leaving
a center space sufficient to hold the salad. Mix celery, arti-
chokes, cherries and grapefruit pulp with French dressing and
decorate with a large spoon of mayonnaise. Serve two cheese
straws with each portion of salad.

FROZEN CHEESE SALAD

1/2 pound cream cheese Vi cup cream, whipped

1 green pepper, chopped 2 to 4 teaspoons salt, celery

1 cup crushed pineapple salt, mustard, paprika,

Yz cup mayonnaise mixed according to taste

Soften the cheese. Add pepper, mayonnaise, pineapple and
seasonings and fold in with whipped cream. Freeze.

CREAM CHEESE SALAD

lYz cups cream cheese or Lettuce leaves

cottage cheese French dressing

Arrange crisp lettuce leaves on a salad-dish and press cream
cheese through a potato-ricer upon them. The cheese must be
thoroughly chilled before making a salad, and it should be
served immediately. Use French dressing and pass bar-le-duc
or guava jelly or any preferred fruit jam or jelly with it.

COMBINATION CREAM CHEESE BALL SALAD

% cup cream cheese Yx cup chopped nut-meats or
y^ cup chopped celery chopped parsley

2 tablespoons chopped olives French dressing
Lettuce leaves

Mix cream cheese with chopped celery and olives and form
into balls about the size of a large hickory nut. Roll each

440

ball in chopped nut-meats or chopped parsley. Arrange on
lettuce leaves and serve with French dressing.

Pear-Grape Salad — ^Frost the curved surface of one-half
pear with cream cheese, stud with one-half grapes and garnish
with chicory and watercress, or other attractive greens.

LETTUCE AND CHEESE SALAD
No. 1.

1 cup hard cheese 54 cup shredded lettuce

Milk or cream 54 cup pimiento strips

Pepper and salt Lettuce leaves

6 chopped olives Boiled or mayonnaise dressing

Put the cheese through a food-grinder and moisten slightly
with milk or cream. Add pepper and salt to taste. Add
chopped olives, shredded lettuce and pimiento strips. Press this
mixture into the form of a brick and, when cool and firm, cut
in slices. Place on lettuce leaves and serve with boiled or mayon-
naise dressing.

FROSTED MELON MOLD

Melon Milk

Fruit gelatin Curly endive or chicory

Cream cheese French or mayonnaise dressing

Peel a whole melon. Cut a slice from end and remove seeds.
Fill center with fruit gelatin and refrigerate until gelatin is
firm. Slightly soften cheese with milk and frost the entire out-
side of melon. Serve in slices on crisp chicory, with dressing.

EGG AND PEANUT SALAD WITH CELERY

6 hard-cooked eggs Mayonnaise

y^ to Yz cup chopped peanuts Celery curls
or peanut butter Garnish of peanut halves

Cut the eggs in half lengthwise, remove the yolks and com-
bine with chopped peanuts or peanut butter and mayonnaise to
moisten. Fill the whites with this mixture. Put two halves
of c^^ on a plate, surround with curls of celery. Put two
tablespoons of mayonnaise dressing over each tgg and garnish
with peanut halves. Lay a halved peanut on each celery
curl.

SALADS 441

SALAD EGGS

6 hard-cooked eggs 1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon anchovy paste

1 tablespoon cream Lettuce or cress

Yz teaspoon mustard Garnish of radishes and small

Pinch cayenne onions

Remove the shells from tlie cold, hard-cooked eggs and cut
a large piece from the top of each, take out the yolks and mix
them to form a paste with butter, cream, mustard, cayenne,
salt and anchovy paste. Put this mixture back into the hollows
and lay the eggs on a dish of lettuce or cress. Garnish with
radishes and small onions.

DAISY SALAD

6 hard-cooked eggs Yz cup mayonnaise

12 lettuce leaves

Cut the whites of eggs into rings and mix the yolks with the
mayonnaise. On a platter arrange lettuce leaves to form cups.
On these cups arrange the egg rings to simulate daisy petals and
heap the yolks in the center. Cold string beans, boiled whole,
may be used to simulate foliage if desired.

MISCELLANEOUS COMBINATIONS FOR FRUIT
AND VEGETABLE SALADS

1. Avocado, grapefruit, romaine radish, olive, in a pagoda

2. Avocado, orange and cress 10. Endive, carrot sticks and

3. Avocado, peeled white grapes grapefruit

and chicory H- Shredded carrot, Chinese cab-

4. Avocado, tangerine, pecans ^age and romaine

and lettuce 12. Orange, Bermuda onion and

5. Avocado, tart apple and lomaine

romaine ^^* Tomato, cucumber, celery and

6. Chicory, escarole and grape- ^^ ^^'^^ ^.^^^^ ^^1^^^ ^_

^^^^ , , , , , cumber, green pepper and

7. Chicory, shredded cabbage pimiento

and lettuce 15. Green peas, peanuts, mint

8. Escarole, Chinese cabbage and leaves and lettuce

cress 16. Dandelion, escarole, pimiento

9. Chinese cabbage, tomato slice, and onion

442

Meat and Fish Salads
CHICKEN SALAD

2 cups diced chicken Garnish of celery tops, beets
1 cup diced celery cut into dice, capers, egg-
Mayonnaise yolks, etc.
Lettuce

Left-over chicken makes a very good salad. To prepare a
chicken especially for salad, rub well with salt and pepper, place
one small onion and one bay-leaf inside, wrap with a napkin,
tie securely and steam for three hours, or until a fork can be
easily turned around in the meat. When the chicken is cold,
cut the meat into pieces of convenient size for eating. The
most carefully made salads contain only white meat, but the
dark meat has a juiciness and flavor not possessed by the breast.
If dark meat is used, cut it into smaller cubes than the white
meat and the white will predominate in appearance. Marinate
the cut up chicken and let it stand. Make a mayonnaise dress-
ing, stir part of it into the celery, place the celery on a thin
layer of lettuce or arrange it directly upon the salad-dish and
garnish the edge with the tips of the celery. Heap the chicken
mixture in the center, pour over it the remainder of the mayon-
naise, and garnish with white celery tops, boiled beets cut in
dice, capers, cold hard-cooked egg-yolks that have been pressed
through a colander, or any other garnish that pleases the fancy.

CRAB SALAD

1 cup crab-meat, fresh or Garnish of crab claws, hard-
canned cooked eggs, parsley, celery
French dressing tops, etc.
Mayonnaise

If fresh crabs are used, prepare as directed. (See Index.)
Cut up an amount of celery equal to crab-meat. Marinate
with French dressing. Place the mixture in the salad-bowl,
pour over the top a mayonnaise dressing and garnish with crab
claws and hard -cooked eggs in alternation with bits of green,
such as parsley, and the leaves of the celery.

Canned crabs make very good salad. If there is any oil in
the can, drain it off; sprinkle the crabs well with salt and vine-
gar, and drain again before adding the dressing.

SALADS 443

FISH SALAD

1 pound flaked, cooked fish 1 cup chopped celery

2 tablespoons oil Lettuce

1 tablespoon vinegar Mayonnaise

The remains of almost any cold fish may be used in salad
very satisfactorily, but the salad is more successful when made
of fish that will flake nicely, such as salmon, cod, haddock, or
halibut. Remove the bones, pick the fish into flakes, turn over
it oil mixed with vinegar and set away in a cold place. When
about to serve, chop celery and add to the fish. Arrange crisp
white leaves of lettuce in cup shapes on a platter, using one or
two leaves for each, then lay one spoonful of the mixture in
each cup and pour over it one spoonful of mayonnaise.

LOBSTER SALAD

1 Vz cups diced lobster meat Mayonnaise

Yz cup diced celery Lettuce

Vinegar

Prepare lobster as directed (see Index). Remove the meat
and the coral. Cut the meat into pieces of convenient size for
eating. Sprinkle a very little vinegar over the lobster, but keep
the celery crisp until it is time to make the salad. Then mix
the lobster meat and celery together, stir in enough mayonnaise
to moisten and flavor the whole. Arrange the salad on the
center of a bed of crisp white lettuce bordered with green let-
tuce leaves laid under the outer edges. Pour on the remainder
of the mayonnaise and sprinkle over it the coral, well pounded,
and, if liked, a few capers. Garnish with the claws. Some-
times lettuce leaves are arranged on a platter in cup-like clusters
of two or three each, and the salad is divided equally among
the clusters. The salad may be served in the cleaned lobster
shells.

OYSTER SALAD

1 quart oysters 2 tablespoons vinegar

1 tablespoon oil 1 tablespoon lemon-juice

Yz teaspoon salt 1 pint celery

Yi teaspoon pepper Y2 cup mayonnaise

Clean the oysters (see Index) and place them in a stew-pan
on the fire, adding no water. When they are boiling, drain

444

them in a colander; place them in an earthenware dish, and
add the oil, salt, pepper, vinegar and lemon-juice. When cold,
set in the refrigerator for at least two hours. Cut the white
part of the celery into very thin slices, and place it in a bowl
in the refrigerator. "When ready to serve, drain the celery, mix
with the oysters and half of the mayonnaise. Turn the whole
into a salad-bowl, and pour over it the rest of the dressing.
Garnish with white celery leaves and serve at once.

If preferred, lettuce leaves may be arranged on a large platter
In groups of two or three to form cups and in each cup may be
dropped four or five oysters with one spoonful of mayonnaise
poured over them. A tiny spray of parsley may be thrust into
the sauce at the center of each cup.

SALMON SALAD

1 cup cold boiled salmon, 1 cup shredded cabbage or

fresh or canned chopped celery

Mayonnaise Lettuce leaves

Combine salmon, broken in flakes, and shredded cabbage or
celery. Serve with mayonnaise on lettuce leaves.

SARDINE SALAD

Yi cup sardines Lettuce leaves

^ cup hard-cooked egg Mayonnaise or French dressing

1 cucumber

Remove the skin and bones from sardines and mix with
chopped hard-cooked eggs. Cut cucumber in thin slices and
arrange on lettuce leaves. Add sardine and Qgg mixture. Serve
with mayonnaise or French dressing.

SHRIMP SALAD

1 pint cooked shrimps or Lettuce, shredded celery, or

prawns shaved cabbage

Marinade Maynonaise or other dressing

Marinate the shrimps and serve whole on lettuce, shredded
celery, or shaved cabbage, and cover well with a mayonnaise
ot other dressing. Canned shrimps are excellent for salads.

. SALADS 445

SPINACH AND HAM SALAD

2 cups cooked spinach Any desired dressing

6 slices cold boiled ham Lettuce leaves

Drain the spinach and season with salt, pepper, and either
vinegar or lemon- juice. Pack tightly in twelve small molds
to cool. Place slices of cold boiled ham on young lettuce leaves
and place two molds of spinach on opposite sides of each slice
of ham. Serve with my salad dressing desired.

SWEETBREAD SALAD

1 pair sweetbreads Ys teaspoon pepper

1 tablespoon vinegar 6 heart leaves lettuce

54 tablespoon oil 1 cup celery, thinly sliced

Yz teaspoon salt 1 cup mayonnaise

Prepare sweetbreads (see Index) ; cut in cubes, add oil,
vinegar, salt and pepper, and place in the refrigerator for one
hour. Prepare the lettuce and celery, and put them also in the
refrigerator. Just before serving time, fold the celery and
sweetbreads together and add half the dressing. Arrange the
lettuce leaves on a flat dish, divide the sweetbread mixture into
six parts, and place one part on each leaf. Put the remainder of
the dressing upon the salad and serve at once.

TUNAFISH SALAD

Follow directions given for fish salad, on page 443.

ESCAROLE BOWI^-CHICKEN LIVER DRESSING

Wash a head of chicory and a head of escarole, pick over
carefully, soak in cold water and dry thoroughly. Make the
following dressing: Wash two chicken livers and boil until
tender with a carrot, an onion, a piece of celery and a bunch
of parsley. Add the bouillon to your soup stock. Rub the livers
and yolks of 2 hard-cooked eggs through a sieve. Add 154
teaspoons French mustard, pepper, salt and mix to a paste. Add
2 tablespoons olive oil, drop by drop, a teaspoon red wine vinegar
and a tablespoon red wine. Pour this over the greens and toss
well. Serve cold.

SALAD DRESSINGS

THERE are three kinds of salad dressings which are the
foundation for practically all others used: French dress-
ing, mayonnaise dressing and boiled dressing.

French Dressing

French dressing, made from oil and acid, is the most widely
used dressing. Vinegar is the acid generally used with the oil
in vegetable and meat salads, while in fruit salads the juice of
lemons, grapefruit or oranges is used.

The choice of oils to be used in dressing is an individual
matter. Olive oil has the most distinct flavor. With cotton-
seed or corn oil the amount of condiments used may be slightly
increased if desired.

Serve French dressing with chicken, fish, meat, vegetable and
fruit salads.

FRENCH DRESSING

1 clove garlic (optional) 1 tablespoon salt

1 cup vinegar 1 teaspoon paprika

2 teaspoons dry mustard ^ teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon sugar 2 cups salad oil

If using garlic, soak it in vinegar Yz hour before mixing
the dressing. Mix dry ingredients together and place in a covered
jar or bottle. Remove garlic from vinegar and add vinegar to
dry ingredients. Pour on the oil slowly. Place in refrigerator
until ready for use. Just before serving, shake vigorously for
2 minutes. Makes 3 cups dressing.

Variations — Tarragon Dressing: Tarragon vinegar may
be used. Mustard, sugar and paprika may be omitted.

For Fruit Salads: Use Y^. cup each of lemon or lime and
orange juice in place of half the vinegar. Reduce mustard to Y2
teaspoon, salt to 1 teaspoon and paprika to Y2 teaspoon. Increase
sugar to % cup. Add Y2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce and
omit pepper and garlic.

446

SALAD DRESSINGS 447

Dieter's Dressing: Use mineral oil for olive or salad oil.

Variations using J/z recipe French Dressing as foundation —

Anchovy: Cream 2 tablespoons anchovy paste with season-
ings. Add 1 tablespoon each of minced onion and parsley.

Chiffon ade: Add 2 tablespoons each of chopped green
pepper, olives, parsley, pimiento and 1 hard-cooked egg, chopped.
Add chopped red peppers and cooked beets, if desired.

Curry: Add Yz teaspoon curry powder and a few drops
onion juice.

Horse-Radish: Add 4 tablespoons grated horse-radish (juice
pressed out) J/2 clove garlic, crushed and a dash of cayenne.

Mint: Add 2 tablespoons chopped mint.

Olive: Add Yz cup chopped ripe or stuffed olives.

Parmesan: Add 4 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese.

Pickle: Add Y4 cup minced pickles.

Roquefort: Add 4 tablespoons crushed Roquefort cheese,
1 to I Y2 teaspoons onion juice or finely chopped chives and a
dash of Tabasco sauce or cayenne pepper.

LEMON FRENCH DRESSING

I/2 cup lemon juice 1 teaspoon paprika

Y2, cup salad oil 2 tablespoons sugar or

1 teaspoon salt honey

Combine ingredients in the order listed. Shake well before
serving. If desired, add Yz teaspoon celery seed and clove of
garlic. Makes 1 cup dressing.

If a clear dressing is desired, omit paprika and substitute a
dash of pepper.

HAWAII FRENCH DRESSING

y^ cup pineapple juice 1 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons lemon juice ^ teaspoon salt

1/2 cup salad oil I/2 teaspoon paprika

Combine ingredients, chill. Shake or beat thoroughly before
serving. This recipe is adapted for use with mixed fruit salads.
Makes Yg cup.

Variations — Banana French Dressing: Add 2 thor-
oughly mashed ripe bananas and Y4 teaspoon nutmeg.

Ruby French Dressing: Add 1 to I Yz teaspoons grenadine
or maraschino cherry juice.

448

MAYONNAISE DRESSING

No. 1.

2 uncooked egg yolks I/3 teaspoon mustard

I/2 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons vinegar or
Yi teaspoon pepper lemon juice

y^ teaspoon paprika 2 cups salad oil

To yolks, add dry seasonings, beat thoroughly, add vinegar
or lemon juice and beat again. Add oil gradually (drop by drop
at first) beating hard between additions. The mixture should
be thick and creamy. Should mayonnaise curdle, begin with a
third egg jolk, add a small quantity of oil to the egg, and then
by very small quantities, add the curdled dressing. At times a
dressing may be quite firm when left, only to be found curdled
and disappointing when the time comes to use it. This third
egg process will, however, usually restore it. Equal proportions
of vinegar and lemon juice may be used. Tarragon vinegar is
sometimes used to give an interesting flavor.

No. 2.

r egg yolk, hard cooked y^ teaspoon Worcestershire

1 egg yolk, uncooked sauce

y2 teaspoon sugar 1 cup salad oil

y2 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons vinegar

y^ teaspoon pepper or lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon prepared mustard

Place hard-cooked egg yolk in a bowl and mash it fine. When
the yolk is like powder, add uncooked yolk and stir until mix-
ture is smooth, then add sugar, salt, pepper, mustard and sauce.
When the whole is well mixed, add oil gradually, stirring con-
stantly, and thin as necessary with vinegar or lemon juice. Chill
for 1 hour before using.

Originally, only a spoon was used in beating this dressing,
however, now a wire whisk, small wooden spoon, rotary egg
beater or a four-tined fork may be used.

Colored Mayonnaise: To color mayonnaise red, add lobster
paste, raspberry or cooked beet pulp or juice from raspberries
or beets; for green color add chopped fresh spinach, parsley or
concentrated liquor from boiled artichokes.

Dieter's Mayonnaise: Use mineral oil for salad oil.

SALAD DRESSINGS 449

Mayonnaise Variations — Foundation 1 cup mayonnaise.

Appetizer Mayonnaise: Rub bowl with garlic and beat in
2 cups French Dressing (page 446).

Chili Sauce Mayonnaise: Add Yz teaspoon lemon juice,
2 teaspoons chili sauce, ^ teaspoon confectioners' sugar and

1 teaspoon horse-radish.

Coronation Mayonnaise: Add 1 tablespoon each of lemon
juice and red Bar-le-Duc and a dash of paprika.

Fruit Juice Mayonnaise: Add 3 tablespoons fruit juice,
Yz cup confectioners' sugar and 1 cup heavy cream, whipped.

Lemon Cream Mayonnaise: Add ^ cup confectioners'
sugar, y^ cup lemon juice, a few grains salt and 1 cup heavy
cream, whipped.

Roquefort Mayonnaise: Add 2 tablespoons Roquefort
cheese, mashed, 1 teaspoon lemon juice and J^ teaspoon salt.

Sour Cream Mayonnaise: Add ^ cup confectioners' sugar,

2 tablespoons lemon juice and 1 cup sour cream, whipped.
Thousand Island Dressing: Add Yi cup chili sauce, 1 table-
spoon each chopped olives and pimientos and 1 hard-cooked ^^%
yolk, chopped or rubbed through a sieve.

Whipped Cream Mayonnaise: Add 4 teaspoons confec-
tioners' sugar and 1 cup cream, whipped.

RUSSIAN DRESSING

11/^ tablespoons lemon juice 1 tablespoon Worcestershire

2 tablespoons thick chili sauce

sauce Y2 <^up niayonnaise

Mix the lemon juice, chili sauce and Worcestershire thor-
oughly and add the mayonnaise.

THOUSAND ISLAND DRESSING

1 cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon chopped green

4 tablespoons chili sauce pepper

1 tablespoon chives 3 tablespoons chopped red

3 tablespoons catchup pepper

1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar 1 teaspoon paprika

Add chili sauce, chives, catchup, peppers, paprika and vinegar
to mayonnaise.

450

BOILED DRESSING

No. 1.

yz cup vinegar 54 teaspoon mustard

1 teaspoon fat 54 teaspoon salt

3 egg-yolks 1/16 teaspoon cayenne

1 tablespoon sugar Whipped cream, sweet or sour

Heat the vinegar to the boiling-point and melt the fat in
the vinegar. Beat the egg-yolks until thick and lemon-colored.
Add the sugar, mustard, salt and cayenne, mixed. Gradually
pour the hot vinegar on the yolk mixture, and cook in a double
boiler until thick, stirring constantly. Add whipped cream
just before serving.

CREAMY EGGLESS MAYONNAISE

11/^ tablespoons sugar I/2 teaspoon dry mustard

14 teaspoon paprika l/^ cup evaporated milk, undiluted

y2 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons vinegar

Few grains white pepper V^^^ '^Vi ^^P^ salad oil

Mix dry ingredients with milk; beat in vinegar, add oil grad-
ually, beating thoroughly. Since the mixture thickens somewhat
when chilled, it may be desirable to thin it with undiluted
evaporated milk before using, or less oil can be used if a thinner
mixture is desired. Makes 1 pint.

SOUR CREAM SALAD DRESSING

1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon lemon-juice

1 teaspoon sugar 2 tablespoons vinegar

y% teaspoon cayenne 1 cup sour cream

This makes an excellent dressing for vegetable salads. Place
the salt, sugar, and pepper together in a bowl, mix well and
add the lemon- juice, then the vinegar. When the mixture is
perfectly smooth, put in the cream, stir well and set on the ice
until needed.

DRESSING FOR MEAT SALADS

Tartar, Hollandaise and Vinaigrette sauces (see Index for
recipes) may be used with meat salads if desired.

CAKES

CAKES are of two general types depending upon the basic
ingredients they contain. In one group are the cakes
made with fat — the various butter cakes, pound cakes, and
fruit cakes; and in the other group are those that are made
without fat — ^sponge and angel cakes. Either kind of cake
may be baked in many different forms — oblong or round
loaves, sheets, layers, or individual cakes of various shapes, de-
pending somewhat upon the kind of cake but also upon the
way they are to be served. The butter cakes are most fre-
quently baked in layers, pound cakes in round or oblong loaves,
and sponge and angel cakes, in sheets or in the tube pans which
give round loaves with a hole in the center.

Materials Used in Cake Making

Sugar — ^Fine grained granulated sugar is the standard sugar
for cake. A coarse grained sugar may produce a coarse grained
cake with a hard crust. Light brown or dark brown sugar is
preferred by most people for fruit cake or any dark cake.
Brown sugar is lighter and more moist than granulated and
when it as used instead of granulated sugar the substitution
should be weight for weight, not measure for measure.

Shortening — ^Any fat that has a mild flavor may be used
for the shortening in cake. Butter is the first choice with many
cooks because of its flavor, but it is the most expensive of fats.
Tasteless vegetable or animal oils or hardened fats produce per-
fect results, aside from the flavor. Since these fats are unsalted
the amount of salt should be increased by one-half.

Hard fats should be creamed with the sugar. If they are
melted and added while hot, the cake is likely to be tough.
If melted fat is called for, it should be cooled before it is added.

Eggs — ^Eggs for cake need not be newly laid, but they should
be of good quality, free from taint and fresh enough to beat
up well. Two yolks or two whites may be used instead of one
whole eggy or a yolk may be substituted for a white or the other
way around. The substitution of yolks for whites or vice versa
makes a difference in the color and to some extent in the tex-

451

J5i

ture of the cake. In recipes calling for egg whites alone or for
more whites than yolks, the number of whites cannot be reduced
without changing the texture of the cake. If an egg white is
used instead of a yolk, one teaspoon of shortening should be
added. When fewer whole eggs are to be used than a recipe
calls for, add one-half teaspoon of baking powder instead of
each egg omitted, after the first one. Eggs improve the quality
of the texture of batters, and while a fairly good plain cake can
be made with only one egg, additional eggs give a lighter, more
delicate texture, improve the flavor and produce a smoother
crust.

Flour — In the cake recipes given in this book, cake flour has
been used. Cake flour has a low gluten content and therefore
makes a finer textured cake. Although cake flour is preferred
for cakemaking, successful cakes are made with all-purpose
flour. If all-purpose flour is used for cake flour, reduce the
amount of flour used by 2 tablespoons per cup of flour called
for and do not beat the batter as long as when using cake flour.
Always sift flour before measuring. Fill cup lightly. Resifting
with dry ingredients as directed.

Leavening Agents — The most usual leavening agents in
cakemaking are eggs and baking powder. When 1 egg is
omitted from a recipe the baking powder should be increased
by Yz teaspoon. If the liquid used is sour milk or cream, use Yz
teaspoon baking soda for each cup of liquid. Then decrease
baking powder slightly. It is best to sift the baking soda with
the dry ingredients. If the soda is dissolved in the sour milk
it must be added to the mixture immediately or some of the
gas to be used in leavening will be lost.

No chemical leavening agent is used in true spongecakes.
The air incorporated by means of the beaten egg whites, and
the steam generated in cooking make the cake rise as it is baked.

Flavorings — A cake shortened entirely with good butter
needs no additional flavoring though most people add some
flavoring extract. Vanilla and lemon extracts are used more
commonly than others, but almond, orange, pineapple, and rose
give a variety in flavors. Very often the juices of fresh fruit
such as lemon or orange, or the grated peel or rind, are used
in certain types of cake. Too much flavoring is a common
mistake. The amount given in recipes is for an extract of
average strength. Where an extract of greater strength is used
the amount should be decreased.

CAKES 453

Standard Method of Mixing Butter Cakes

There are several methods of combining ingredients for but-
ter cakes, but the method described below is considered the
standard.

Cream the Butter or Other Shortening by continued
rubbing against the sides of the bowl until it is soft and light.
Some people prefer to use a wooden spoon for this, but a fork
does the work more quickly. If the shortening is too hard to
cream easily, warm the bowl slightly by setting it in warm
water, but do not melt the fat.

Add the Sugar Gradually and work well after each addi-
tion.

Separate the Whites From the Yolks of the eggs. Beat
the yolks until they are thick and lemon-colored, then add them
to the creamed shortening and sugar. If the egg is not separated,
beat the whole egg well and add here.

Sift the Flour, measure it and add to it all other dry
ingredients, such as baking-powder, salt and spices,^ and then
sift again.

Add the Dry Ingredients and Milk to the first mixture,
alternately, keeping the batter of the same consistency through-
out the mixing process. Beat just enough to make the mixture
smooth.

Add the Flavoring, then fold in the stiffly beaten egg-
whites, unless the whites were added with the yolks.

When Fruits or Nuts Are Used, save out a little of the
flour to sift over them, and add them to the cake mixture just
before the egg-whites are added.

Melt Chocolate Over Hot Water and add just after
the egg-yolks. Add cocoa as one of the dry ingredients.

Baking Butter Cakes

For any cake made with fat, grease the pans with a melted,
unsalted fat, using a pastry brush or a piece of soft paper, then
dredge the pans with flour, and shake them to distribute the
flour over the surface. Invert the pans and shake them to re-
move all surplus flour, leaving only the thin film which adheres
to the fat. This helps to give the cake a smooth under crust.

If the oven temperature is difficult to control, if the cake

454

pan is not smooth, or if the cake contains only a small amount
of fat, it is advisable to line the pans with smooth paper. Cut
the paper to fit the bottom of the pan, plus an allowance to
cover the sides. For a rectangular pan, cut out the corners of
the paper so that it will fit against the sides of the pan without
overlapping or wrinkling. For a round or oval pan, cut gashes
along the edge of the paper as far as the part which is to cover
the bottom. The paper will then overlap smoothly on the
sides of the pan. Grease the paper after it is fitted into the
pan. The grease will hold the paper against the sides as the
cake batter is poured in.

If you want the cake to rise to the top of the pan, fill the
pan about two-thirds full. Spread the batter well into the
corners and against the sides of the pan, leaving a slight de-
pression in the center. As cake tends to rise more in the
center than at the edges, this will help to make it flat on top
when it is done.

Baking Temperatures — Place the pan in the center of the
lower grate so that the greatest amount of heat will reach it
from underneath. A moderate temperature, varying from
350° to 375°, is best for baking a butter cake. If the oven
is too hot, a thick brown crust will form on the outside before
the cake has fully risen and before the inside has thoroughly
baked, resulting in a cracked surface.

The Time for Baking depends on the thickness of the cake.
Cup cakes take from twenty to thirty minutes, layer cakes
about twenty minutes,, and loaf cakes from forty-five to sixty
minutes.

Divide the time of baking into quarters: (1) During the
first quarter, the cake should rise and little bubbles form on the
top; (2) in the second quarter, it should continue to rise and
to form the crust; (3) in the third quarter, it should begin to
brown, and (4) at the end of the fourth quarter it should be
browned sufficiently and shrink from the tin.

Testing the Cake — When the cake is fully baked, it will
shrink from the sides of the pan. When touched lightly with
the finger it will spring back. If the finger leaves a depression,
the cake is not done.

Another test is to insert a clean wooden toothpick into the
middle of the cake. If no particles of batter adhere to it when
it is drawn out, the cake is done.

CAKES 455

Care After Baking — After removing the cake from the
oven, allow it to remain in the pan about two minutes. Then,
with a spatula or knife, loosen the edges. If there is any
tendency for the cake to stick on the bottom, wring a cloth
out of water and place it on the bottom of the pan for a few
seconds. Turn the cake out on a wire cake-cooler and allow it
to stand until cool.

Standard Method of Mixing Cakes Without Fat

Cakes without fat depend for leavening largely upon the air
beaten into the eggs. The whites and yolks of the eggs may or
may not be separated, depending upon the kind of cake. If
using the whole egg, beat it till thick and lemon-colored; if us-
ing only the yolk, beat till thick and light in color, add the
sugar gradually and beat after each addition until the sugar
dissolves.

Add the flavoring and liquid, if there is any, and fold in the
sifted dry ingredients.

When the whites have been beaten separately, they are added
last, using the folding motion. Do not beat the mixture after
the whites have been added. Place at once in a moderate oven
(325°— 350° F.).

General Directions for Baking Cakes Without Fat

Use an ungreased pan for sponge or angel cakes. If they are
greased the batter cannot cling to the sides of the pan as it bakes
and thus the cake does not reach its full height. Greasing also
causes the cake to fall out of the pan during cooling, making
it flat and soggy.

Baking Temperatures — True sponge and angel food cakes
in which eggs are the only leavening are baked in a moderate
oven (325° — 350° F.) to insure the best volume and texture.
If baked too slow the results will be a coarse uneven cake; if
oven is too hot the cake will be small in volume, fine grained
and tough. It can be truly said of such a cake, "half the making
is the baking." When baking-powder is used, a slightly higher
temperature is desirable. The division of baking time is the
same as for butter cakes.

When the cake is a light brown, and springs back when

456

pressed with the finger, it is done. Remove it to a wire cake
cooler, invert the tin and allow it to stand till the cake is cool.
Then remove the cake from the tin. When serving, break it
apart with two forks; cutting with a knife tends to crush the
cake and make it appear heavy.

Causes of Failure in Making Cake

Cracks and Uneven Surfaces are caused by too much flour
or too hot an oven.

A Dry Cake (that is, a fresh cake that seems dry or bready
inside) may be caused by too much flour, too little fat or by
the kind of sugar used, i.e., powdered sugar is thought by some
people to give a dryer cake than granulated sugar.

A Heavy Sticky Cake means too much sugar or too little
baking.

A Moist Sticky Crust is caused by an excess of sugar.

A Macaroon Crust is caused by too much sugar or too slow
baking.

Coarse Grained Cakes are caused by insufficient mixing,
too slow baking, too much baking-powder, or too much fat.

Falling is caused by insufficient flour, too much fat, under-
baking, or opening or jarring the oven early in the baking
period.

An Uneven Color is caused by too fast baking or insuf-
ficient mixing.

FOUNDATION OR PLAIN CAKE

Yi cup shortening 2 teaspoons baking-powder

% cup sugar Yz cup milk

2 eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla

IY2 cups flour

Cream the shortening, add sugar and continue creaming.
Add well-beaten eggs. Mix and sift the dry ingredients and add
alternately with the milk. Add flavoring. Bake in layers,
(375° F. for 20 minutes). Any good filling and frosting may
be used. The batter may be varied by adding nuts, coconut,
spices, etc., and may be baked as a loaf cake.

CAKES

457

ONE-EGG CAKE

y^ cup shortening 54 teaspoon salt

1 cup sugar 21/^ teaspoons baking powder

1 ^gg, unbeaten % cup milk

2 cups sifted cake flour 1 teaspoon vanilla

Cream shortening, add sugar gradually and cream until fluffy.
Add Qg% and beat thoroughly. Sift dry ingredients together 3
times and add alternately with milk and vanilla. Pour into
greased pans. Bake in a moderate oven (3 50°F.) 25 minutes.
Makes 2 (9 -inch) layers.

CARMEL OR BURNT SUGAR CAKE

1% cups sugar % cup butter or other

1/3 cup hot water shortening

3 cups sifted cake flour 3 eggs, unbeaten

3 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon vanilla

14 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons burnt sugar

sirup
% cup milk

Prepare burnt sugar sirup. Place J/z cup of the sugar in a
heavy skillet, stirring constantly as sugar melts. When it be-
comes dark brown, remove from heat, add hot water very
slowly and stir until dissolved. Cool. Sift flour, baking powder
and salt together 3 times. Cream shortening, add remaining
sugar (1/4 cups) gradually and cream until light and fluffy.
Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating thoroughly after each. Add van-
illa and 3 tablespoons of the sirup; blend. Add dry ingredients
and milk alternately, beating until smooth. Pour into pans
lined with waxed paper and bake in a moderate oven (3 50°F.)
25 to 30 minutes. Makes 2 (9 -inch) layers.

IN-A-JIFFY CAKE

1^ cups sifted cake flour % cup milk

% cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla

% teaspoon salt 1^ ^^P nielted shortening

2 teaspoons baking powder 1 tgg, beaten

Sift dry ingredients together 3 times. Combine remaining
ingredients and add gradually to dry ingredients. Beat mix-
ture 2 minutes. Pour into greased cake pan. Bake in moderate
oven (3 50°F.) 30 minutes. Makes 1 (8x8x2 inch) cake.

GEORGE WASHINGTON
MADE HISTORY WHILE
MARTHA MADE CREAM
PIES LIKE THIS ONE
—Wheat Flour Institute

w^ jitXB^n^f^mOKDS FOR DEVIL'S FOOD
CAKE. ALWAYS A FAVORITE— EASY TO BAKE

45^

ONE-TWO-THREE-FOUR CAKE (Measure Cake)

1 cup butter or other 3 cups sifted cake flour
shortening % teaspoon salt

2 cups sugar 3 teaspoons baking powder
4 eggs, separated 1 cup milk

1 teaspoon vanilla

Cream shortening and sugar until fluffy. Add egg yolks 1
at a time, beating thoroughly after each one is added. Sift dry
ingredients together 3 times and add alternately with milk and
vanilla to creamed mixture, beating until smooth after each
addition. Fold in stiffly beaten egg whites. Pour into pans lined
with waxed paper and bake in moderate oven (3 50°F.) 25 min-
utes. Makes 3 (9 -inch) layers.

MAPLE SIRUP CAKE

y2 cup sugar Salt

1/^ cup shortening 2]/^ cups flour

% cup maple sirup 3 teaspoons baking powder

1/^ cup milk 3 egg whites

Cream the sugar and shortening together. Add the sirup and
stir well. Add the milk and flour alternately. Fold in the
beaten whites and bake in an oblong pan (3 50°-375°F.) 45-60
minutes. When the cake is baked and cool, place it on an
inverted cake pan and cover with Maple Sugar Frosting, No. 2.

DEVIL'S FOOD CAKE

% cup butter or other 21^ cups sifted cake flour

shortening 1^ teaspoons baking soda

1% cups brown sugar % teaspoon baking powder

3 eggs, well beaten % teaspoon salt
% cup boiling water % cup sour milk

3 ounces (3 squares) bitter II/2 teaspoons vanilla

chocolate

Cream shortening thoroughly; add sugar gradually and cream
mixture until light and fluffy. Add beaten eggs and beat well.
Meanwhile pour the boiling water over chocolate; stir over low
heat until smooth and thick; cool and add to egg mixture;
blend thoroughly. Sift flour once, measure and combine with
remaining dry ingredients and sift 3 times, then add to choco-

CAKES Acg

late mixture, alternately with milk and vanilla combined. Beat
well after each addition. Pour batter into greased pans which
have been lined with waxed paper. Bake in a moderate oven
(3 50°F.) until done, 25 to 30 minutes. Makes 3 (8 -inch) lay-
ers. Spread with Boiled Frosting (page 479).

CHOCOLATE NUT CAKE

% cup butter or other l^ teaspoon cinnamon

shortening 1^ teaspoon allspice

iy2 cups sugar 1 cup milk

4 eggs, separated 4 ounces (4 squares) bitter
1% cups sifted cake flour chocolate (melted)

2 teaspoons baking powder 1 cup walnuts, chopped

1/2 teaspoon cloves 1 teaspoon vanilla

Cream shortening, add sugar slowly and beat until light and
fluffy. Add unbeaten egg yolks and beat vigorously. Sift dry
ingredients together 3 times and add alternately with milk to
creamed mixture. Stir in chocolate, nuts and vanilla and mix
well. Fold in stiffly beaten egg whites. Pour into waxed-paper-
lined loaf pan and bake in a moderately slow oven (325 °F.)
about 50 minutes. Makes 1 loaf (4x8 inches). When cool,
spread top and sides with Marshmallow-Cream Frosting (page
482) or Boiled Frosting (page 479).

SOUR CREAM COCOA CAKE

1/2 cup cocoa 1/^ teaspoon salt

% cup boiling water l/^ cup sour cream

1/2 cup shortening 1/^ teaspoon baking soda

2 cups sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla

2 cups sifted cake flour 3 egg whites

Mix cocoa in boiling water and stir until smooth. Cool.
Cream shortening and sugar together until light and fluffy. Add
cocoa mixture to creamed mixture. Sift flour, salt and soda
together. Add dry ingredients alternately with cream to first
mixture. Beat until smooth after each addition. Add vanilla.
Fold in stiffly beaten egg whites. Pour into pans lined with
waxed paper and bake in a moderate oven (3 50°F.) 30 minutes.
Makes 2 (9-inch) layers. Spread Mocha Frosting (page 482)
between layers and on top.

460

COFFEE CAKE

2 tablespoons shortening % cup flour

I/2 cup sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder

1 egg y^ cup milk

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Cream the shortening and sugar, add the beaten egg yolk
and the sifted dry ingredients alternately with the milk. Add
vanilla. Fold in the stiffly beaten egg white. Spread one half
of the mixture in a deep greased piepan.

Filling —

1/^ cup brown sugar 1 cup chopped walnuts

2 teaspoons cinnamon 2 tablespoons flour

2 tablespoons melted fat

Mix all the ingredients thoroughly and spread one half over
the batter in the pan. Add the rest of the cake batter and spread
the remainder of the filling over the top. Bake in a moderate
oven (350°-375°F.) 45-60 minutes.

SOUR MILK CHOCOLATE CAKE

Yj cup shortening 2 ounces (2 squares)

II/2 cups sugar chocolate, melted]

1 teaspoon vanilla 2 cups sifted cake flour

3 eggs, separated 1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup sour milk

Cream shortening, add sugar gradually, creaming until fluffy,
add vanilla and beaten Qgg yolks, then chocolate. Sift dry in-
gredients together 3 times and add alternately with milk. Fold
in stiffly beaten Qgg whites. Turn into 2 greased (9 -inch) pans
and bake in a 3 50°F. oven 2 5 minutes.

GINGER COCONUT CAKES

2/3 cup molasses 1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 cup sugar 1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 cup butter or other 2 cups sifted cake flour

shortening 1 cup sour milk

1 teaspoon ginger 2 eggs, beaten

Heat first 5 ingredients to boiling, stirring constantly. Cool

CAKES 461

to lukewarm. Sift soda and flour together and add alternately
with milk and eggs, beating thoroughly. Pour into greased
muffin pans. Bake in a 3 50 °F. oven 15 minutes. Makes 16 cakes.
Cover with boiled frosting and coconut.

NUT CAKE

1/^ cup shortening 2 teaspoons baking powder

1 cup sugar Yj cup milk

2 tggs, separated 1 teaspoon vanilla

114 cups sifted cake flour 1 cup chopped nut meats

Cream shortening and sugar, add Qgg yolks and beat well.
Sift flour and baking powder and add alternately with milk and
vanilla. Add nuts and fold in stiflly beaten Qgg whites. Bake in
a greased loaf pan in a 3 50°F. oven 50 minutes.

WHITE MOUNTAIN CAKE

1/^ cup shortening y^ teaspoon salt

^Vl <^P^ sugar 1 cup milk

2I/2 cups sifted cake flour 1 teaspoon vanilla

3 teaspoons baking powder 4 tgg whites, stiffly beaten

Cream shortening, add sugar gradually and cream until light
and fluffy. Sift flour, baking powder and salt together 3 times
and add alternately with milk and vanilla a small amount at a
time, beating after each addition until smooth. Pour into a tube
pan lined with waxed paper. Bake in a moderate oven (3 50°F.)
45 to 60 minutes. When cake is cold, cover with Boiled Frost-
ing, page 479.

WHITE CAKE

% cup shortening I/2 teaspoon salt

2 cups sugar 1 cup milk

3 cups sifted cake flour 1 teaspoon vanilla

3 teaspoons baking powder 5 Qgg whites, stiffly beaten

Cream shortening, add sugar gradually and cream until light
and fluffy. Sift dry ingredients together 3 times and add alter-
nately with milk and vanilla to creamed mixture. Fold in Qgg
whites. Pour into greased pans and bake in a moderate oven
(3 50°F.) 30 minutes. Makes 3 (9-inch) layers.

462

GOLD CAKE

% cup butter or other 2l/^ cups sifted cake flour

shortening 3 teaspoons baking powder

ly^ cups sugar ^ teaspoon salt

8 egg yolks, beaten % cup milk

1 teaspoon vanilla

Cream shortening and sugar until light and fluffy. Add egg
yolks and continue creaming. Sift dry ingredients together 3
times; add alternately with liquids to creamed mixture. Beat
until smooth. Pour into cake pans lined with waxed paper.
Bake in a moderate oven (3 50°F.) 18 to 20 minutes. Makes 3
(9 -inch) layers.

ORANGE CAKE

% cup shortening 4 teaspoons baking powder

^Vl ^^P^ sugar % teaspoon salt

3 eggs ^ cup orange juice

Grated rind of 1 orange 1 tablespoon lemon juice

3 cups sifted cake flour y^ cup water

Cream shortening, add sugar gradually, creaming until light
and fluffy. Add eggs one at a time, beating thoroughly after
each addition. Add orange rind. Sift dry ingredients together
3 times and add alternately with liquids to creamed mixture.
Pour into cake pans lined with waxed paper. Bake in a moderate
oven (3 50°F.) 25 to 30 minutes. Makes 2 (9-inch) layers.
When cold spread Orange Filling (page 477) between layers
and Twice Cooked Frosting or Seven Minute Frosting (page
479) on top and sides.

LAYER CAKE

I/2 cup shortening y^ teaspoon salt

1 cup sugar 21^ teaspoons baking powder

2 eggs, separated % cup milk

2 cups sifted cake flour 1 teaspoon vanilla

Cream shortening, add sugar gradually and beat until fluffy,
then add beaten egg yolks. Sift dry ingredients together 3 times
and add alternately with milk and vanilla to creamed mixture.
Fold in stiffly beaten egg whites. Bake in 2 layers in a moderate
oven (3 50°F.) 20 minutes. When cold fill and frost as desired.

CAKES 463

LADY BALTIMORE CAKE

% cup butter or other I/2 teaspoon salt

shortening l/^ cup milk

2 cups sugar 1/2 ^^V ^^^^^

3 cups sifted cake flour 1 teaspoon vanilla
3 teaspoons baking powder 6 egg whites

Cream shortening and sugar together until fluffy. Sift flour,
baking powder and salt together 3 times. Combine milk, water
and vanilla. Add small amounts of flour to creamed mixture,
alternately with milk mixture, beating until smooth after each
addition. Beat egg whites until stiff but not dry and fold into
mixture. Pour into cake pans lined with waxed paper. Bake in
moderate oven (350°F.) 25 minutes. Makes 3 (9-inch) layers.

Lady Baltimore Frosting and Filling —

3 cups sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup water ' 1/^ cup chopped figs

y^ teaspoon cream of tartar 1 cup chopped raisins

3 egg whites, stiffly beaten 1 cup chopped nut meats

Boil sugar, water and cream of tartar together to 238°F. or
until a small amount of sirup will form a soft ball when tested
in cold water. Pour hot sirup gradually over beaten whites,
beating constantly and continuing to beat until mixture is of
spreading consistency. Add vanilla. Divide mixture in half.
Add fruit and nuts to 1 portion and spread between layers of
cake. Frost top and sides v^ith remaining frosting.

MARBLE CAKE

I/3 cup butter or other 2 teaspoon baking powder

shortening

1/^ teaspoon salt

1 cup sugar

14 cup milk

2 eggs, well beaten

1 ounce (1 square)

I/2 teaspoon vanilla

chocolate, melted

1% cups sifted cake flour

Cream shortening, add sugar gradually and cream until light
and fluffy. Add eggs and vanilla and mix thoroughly. Sift dry
ingredients together 3 times and add alternately with milk to
creamed mixture, beating until smooth. To ^ of the batter
add chocolate and blend thoroughly. Place by spoonfuls in a
greased tube pan, alternating light and dark mixtures. Bake in
a moderate oven (3 50°F.) 1 hour.

4^4

BLITZ TORTE

1/2 cup shortening 1 teaspoon baking powder

14 cup sugar 4 egg whites

l/g teaspoon salt % cup sugar

4 egg yolks, beaten light 1/^ cup sliced blanched

1 teaspoon vanilla almonds

3 tablespoons milk 1 tablespoon sugar

1 cup sifted cake flour 14 teaspoon cinnamon

Cream shortening; beat in sugar and salt, then egg yolks,
vanilla, milk and flour (sifted with baking pov^der). Spread
mixture in 2 round greased cake pans. Beat egg v^hites until
very Hght, add % cup sugar gradually and spread on the un-
baked mixture in both pans. Sprinkle with almonds, 1 table-
spoon sugar and cinnamon and bake in a moderate oven (3 50°F.)
about 30 minutes. Let cool and put together with cream fill-
ing. Makes 1 (9-inch) 2 layer cake.

Cream Filling —

1/3 cup sugar 2 egg yolks

3 tablespoons cornstarch 2 tablespoons butter

y^ teaspoon salt 2 cups milk, scalded

1 teaspoon vanilla

Combine sugar, cornstarch, salt and egg yolks; beat thor-
oughly. Add butter and enough milk to make a smooth paste.
Add paste to remaining hot milk and cook over boiling water,
stirring constantly until mixture is thickened. Cool and add
vanilla. If desired add Yz cup chopped nut meats.

OLD-FASHIONED POUNDCAKE

1 pound butter (2 cups) 10 eggs, separated

1 pound sifted cake flour 1 pound sugar (2 cups)

(4 cups) 1 teaspoon vanilla

Cream butter, work in flour until mixture is mealy. Beat egg
yolks, sugar and vanilla until thick and fluffy. Add first mix-
ture gradually, beating thoroughly. Fold in stiffly beaten egg
whites. Beat vigorously 5 minutes. Bake in 2 loaf pans lined
with waxed paper, in a moderately slow oven (325 °F.) 1^4
hours. Makes 2 loaves (8x4 inches).

CAKES 465

SPICE CAKE

Vl ^'^P shortening 1 teaspoon baking soda

2 cups brown sugar 2 teaspoons cinnamon

3 eggs, separated 1 teaspoon cloves

2 cups sifted cake flour 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg

14 teaspoon salt 1 cup thick sour cream

Cream shortening and sugar together until fluffy, add beaten
yolks. Sift dry ingredients together 3 times and add alternately
with cream to first mixture, beating thoroughly after each addi-
tion. Fold in stiffly beaten q%% whites. Pour into cake pan lined
with waxed paper. Bake in moderate oven (3 50°F.) about 50
minutes. Makes 1 cake (9 inches square).

FIG LOAF CAKE

1 cup shortening 1 teaspoon cinnamon

2 cups brown sugar l^ teaspoon ground cloves

4 eggs, well beaten 1 teaspoon nutmeg

3 cups sifted cake flour 1 cup water

3 teaspoons baking powder I/2 pound figs, finely cut
1^ teaspoon salt 2 cups chopped raisins

Cream shortening, add sugar gradually and cream until fluffy.
Beat in eggs. Sift dry ingredients together 3 times and add alter-
nately with water to creamed mixture. Blend in fruits. Bake in
a waxed-paper-lined loaf pan (5 J/2 x 10 inches) in a slow oven
(300°F.) about 2 hours.

DELICIOUS FRUITCAKE

4 cups sifted cake flour 1 pound citron, sliced

1 teaspoon mace 2 cups blanched almonds,
1/^ teaspoon nutmeg sliced

2 teaspoons cinnamon 1 pound butter

1/2 teaspoon baking soda 2 cups light brown sugar

3 pounds currants 9 eggs, separated

2 pounds seeded raisins 1 cup strong cold coflFee

Sift flour, spices and soda together 3 times. Mix with fruits
and nuts. Cream butter and sugar together until fluffy. Beat
yolks until thick and whites until stiff; add to creamed mixture.
Add flour-fruit mixture alternately with coffee. Pour into
greased pans lined with greased paper. Bake in very slow oven
(275 °F.) 3 to 4 hours. Rich fruitcake is sometimes steamed
1 hour, then baked for remaining time.

466

WEDDING CAKE

2 pounds butter

11/^ teaspoons salt

1 pound granulated sugar

1 teaspoon cloves

% pound brown sugar

2 teaspoons cinnamon

20 eggs

2 tablespoons nutmeg

2 oranges, juice and grated

2 tablespoons mace

rind

1 glass tart jelly

1 lemon, juice and grated rind

3 pounds seeded raisins

1 teaspoon soda

2 pounds seedless raisins

1 cup molasses

5 pounds currants

1 cup black coffee

1 pound almonds

1 cup fruit juice

2 pounds citron

2 pounds flour

2 cups flour (for the fruit)

Cream the butter till very soft, add the white sugar and the
sifted brown sugar and mix thoroughly. Add the beaten yolks
and mix again with the grated rind. Add one half the soda
to the molasses, stir until foamy and add, with the coffee and
fruit juices, alternating with the two pounds of flour, the rest
of soda, the salt and spices sifted together. Break the jelly into
pieces and stir in. It is not necessary to have the jelly
thoroughly mixed in.

Look over the raisins and currants, wash if necessary, drain
and dry. Blanch the almonds and slice. Save half the nuts to
sprinkle on the bottom and top of cake. Cut the citron in thin
strips. Mix the two cups of flour thoroughly with this fruit.
Candied orange or grapefruit peel may be used for citron.

Mix the prepared fruit with the batter. This may be added
from time to time with the flour. When all is thoroughly com-
bined fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites.

This amount makes about twenty four pounds of cake, and
can be baked in small loaves or in one large one. Whatever
size is chosen line the greased pans with three layers of paper
(bottom and sides) having the top layer well greased. Sprinkle
the bottom with about one third of the reserved nuts. Put the
mixture into the pan making sure that the corners are well filled
and that the top is level and smooth. Sprinkle the remaining
nuts on the top. If made into one large cake steam four hours
and then bake one hour in a very slow oven (250° -2 75° F.). If
made into small cakes they can be baked without steaming first.
Bake in a slow oven (250° F.) for two hours. Let cool in the
pan, but have it stand on a rack so as to have a circulation of
air underneath as well as on the top and sides.

CAKES 467

Turn out and remove the paper. Cool and store in a cool dry
place tightly covered. A few sound apples placed in the con-
tainer where cake is stored will help keep the cake moist if it
must be kept long, but they must be watched and replaced if
they begin to show decay, or if they become^ shrivelled.

As there is so much preparation involved, the fruits and nuts
can be gotten ready several days before the cake is to be baked.
Even after the cake is entirely mixed and in the pan or pans
it can stand overnight if kept in a cool place.

CHRISTMAS FRUITCAKE

1 pound butter 1 pound citron, sliced
ll^ pounds brown sugar 1 pound dates, sliced
iy2 pounds flour 10 eggs, well beaten

2 teaspoons nutmeg 1 cup molasses

1 teaspoon mace 1 cup strong cold coflfee

1 teaspoon cloves Juice and grated rind of

2 teaspoons cinnamon 2 oranges

1 teaspoon baking soda Juice and grated rind of

3 teaspoons baking powder 1 lemon

3 pounds raisins 1 cup tart jelly

2 pounds currants y^ pound almonds, sliced

Cream butter and sugar until fluffy. Sift dry ingredients
together 3 times and mix with fruit. Add eggs to creamed mix-
ture. Add flour-fruit mixture alternately with next 5 ingredients
and beat thoroughly. Pour into pans lined with greased paper.
Sprinkle almonds on top. Cover cakes with greased paper.
Steam for 2 hours, then bake in slow oven (300°F.) 1}4 to 2
hours, removing paper last Yz hour to dry surface.

DRIED APRICOT CAKE

1 cup dried apricots 1 teaspoon vanilla

2 cups water 1% cups sifted cake flour
6 tablespoons sugar 1/^ teaspoon salt

1/2 cup shortening 1/^ teaspoon baking soda

1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder

2 egg yolks y^ cup water

Simmer first 3 ingredients together 30 minutes. Mash and
measure Yz cup pulp. Cream shortening and sugar thoroughly,
add yolks and vanilla; beat. Sift dry ingredients together and
add alternately with water and pulp. Bake in a cake pan (8x8
inches), lined with waxed paper, at 3 50°F., 45 minutes.

468

APPLESAUCE SPICE CAKE

No. 1.

1/2 cup butter or other 2 cups sifted cake flour

shortening 1 teaspoon baking soda

1 cup sugar 1/^ teaspoon nutmeg

2 eggs, beaten light 1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 cup chopped nuts 1 cup unsweetened

1 cup chopped raisins applesauce

Cream shortening and sugar together until fluffy. Add eggs
and mix thoroughly. Add nuts and raisins. Sift dry ingredients
together 3 times and add alternately with applesauce to creamed
mixture, beating thoroughly after each addition. Pour into a
greased loaf pan and bake in a moderate oven (3 50°F.) for
1 hour. If baked in layers, bake only for 25 minutes. Makes
1 loaf (8x4 inches) or 2 (9-inch) layers.

No. 2.

y2 cup shortening 1 teaspoon nutmeg

1 cup sugar y^ teaspoon cloves

1 egg, beaten l/J teaspoon salt

1% cups sifted cake flour 1 teaspoon baking soda

iy2 teaspoons cinnamon 1 cup unsweetened
1 teaspoon allspice applesauce

Cream shortening and sugar together until fluffy. Add egg
and mix thoroughly. Sift dry ingredients together 3 times and
add alternately with applesauce to creamed mixture, beating
thoroughly after each addition. Pour into a cake pan lined with
waxed paper and bake in moderate oven (3 50°F.) 45 minutes.
Makes 1 cake (8x8x2 inches). Frost with Caramel Frosting
(page 479).

TRUE SPONGECAKE

1 cup sifted cake flour 5 egg yolks, beaten until

y^ teaspoon salt thick and lemon-colored

Grated rind y^ lemon 5 egg whites

11/2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 cup sugar

Sift flour and salt together 4 times. Add lemon rind and juice
to beaten yolks and beat until thick and light. Beat egg whites
until stiff, but not dry. Fold in sugar, a small amount at a
time, then add egg yolks. Fold in flour, sifting about 5/4 cup at
a time over surface. Bake in ungreased tube pan in moderate

CAKES A^g

oven (3 50°F.) 1 hour. Remove from oven and invert pan
1 hour before removing cake.

For Martha Washington Cream Pie, bake in 2 cake pans.
Use the filHng page 474 and top with whipped cream. When
serving cut in wedges Hke a pie.

HOT WATER SPONGECAKE

1 cup sifted cake flour 1/2 tablespoon lemon juice

11/^ teaspoons baking powder 2 eggs, separated
y^ teaspoon salt 1 cup sugar

6 tablespoons hot water

Proceed as for True Spongecake (page 468), adding water
to egg and sugar mixture before adding dry ingredients.

MERINGUE SPONGECAKE

1/2 cup water 1 tablespoon lemon juice

ly^ cups sugar 6 egg yolks, beaten thick

% cup egg whites (6) ll/^ cups sifted cake flour

1 teaspoon cream tartar y^ teaspoon salt

Boil water and sugar together to soft-ball stage (238°F.).
Beat egg whites until stiff, but not dry, pour sirup over whites,
add cream of tartar and beat until cool. Add juice. Fold egg
yolks into sirup mixture. Fold in flour sifted with salt. Bake in
ungreased pan in a 3yO°F. oven 45 minutes.

ANGEL CAKE

1 y^ cups sugar 1 teaspoon cream of tartar

1 cup sifted cake flour 1/^ teaspoon salt

1 cup egg whites % teaspoon vanilla

(8 to 10 eggs) y^ teaspoon almond extract

Sift 54 cup sugar and flour together 4 times. Beat egg whites,
cream of tartar and salt to a stiff foam. Add remaining sugar,
a little at a time, beating it in, preferably with a rotary beater.
Add flavorings. Fold in flour, sifting a little at a time over egg
white and sugar mixture. Pour into a large ungreased tube pan;
cut through batter with a spatula to remove large air bubbles.
Bake in a moderate oven (3 50°F.) 45 to 60 minutes. Remove
from oven; invert pan 1 hour.

470 ________

ROLLED CAKES

5 eggs 1/^ cup sifted cake flour

% cup sugar 3 tablespoons melted butter

y^ teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup jelly or jam, slightly beaten

Combine eggs and sugar and beat only until blended. Place
over hot water and heat until mixture is slightly hot (140°F.).
Remove from heat and beat until mixture holds a limp peak.
Combine salt and flour and fold into egg mixture. Fold in but-
ter a tablespoonful at a time. Blend in vanilla. Pour into a jelly
roll pan (15 x 10 inches) lined with waxed paper. Bake in a
moderate oven (3 50°F.) 15 to 20 minutes. Turn quickly onto
waxed paper covered with confectioners' sugar. Remove bottom
paper and trim sides. Spread quickly with jelly and roll; or
roll cake and when cold unroll and spread with jelly. Wrap in
waxed paper and cool. Just before serving sprinkle cake with
confectioners' sugar. Makes 1 roll.

Lemon Roll — Spread cake roll with Lemon Filling (page
476) instead of jelly or jam.

Marshm ALLOW Chocolate Roll — Spread with Marshmal-
low-Cream Frosting (page 482) and roll. Wrap in cloth to cool.
Unwrap and frost with coating made by adding 1 teaspoon
melted butter to 1 square melted, bitter chocolate.

GRAHAM CRACKER CREAM CAKE

1/2 cup shortening l^ teaspoon salt

1 cup sugar 1 cup graham cracker

2 eggs, beaten crumbs

1 cup sifted cake flour 1 cup milk

2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon almond extract

Cream shortening and sugar together until fluffy. Beat in eggs.
Sift flour, baking powder and salt together 3 times, add crumbs
and add alternately with milk and almond extract to creamed
mixture. Pour into 2 (8 -inch) cake pans lined with waxed
paper. Bake in a moderate oven (3 50°F.) 25 to 30 minutes.
Put layers together with Cream Filling (page 464) and frost top
and sides with a butter frosting.

CAKES 471

WHIPPED CREAM CAKE

1 cup whipping cream 1 teaspoon vanilla

2 eggs, beaten until thick 1 ^ cups sifted cake flour
and lemon colored 54 teaspoon salt

1 cup sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder

Whip cream until it holds its shape. Add eggs and whip until
light as foam. Add sugar and beat again. Add vanilla. Sift
flour, salt and baking powder together 3 times and add to egg
mixture. Bake in greased layer cake pans in a moderate oven
(350° F.) 25 to 30 minutes. Makes 2 (8 -inch) layers. Cool
and spread Seven Minute Icing (page 479) or whipped cream
between the layers and on top.

SOUR CREAM CAKE

2 eggs 1 Yz teaspoons baking
1 cup sugar powder

1 cup thick sour cream Yz teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon vanilla Y4 teaspoon salt

2 cups sifted cake flour

Beat eggs very light, add sugar gradually and beat until
fluffy. Add cream and vanilla and beat. Sift dry ingredients
together 3 times and add to egg mixture, beating until smooth.
Bake in a square pan (8 -inch) lined with waxed paper, in a
moderate oven (3 50°F.) about 35 minutes.

PRUNE AND APRICOT UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE

y^ cup butter % cup sugar

1/2 cup brown sugar 1 egg, beaten

14 teaspoon lemon rind 1 cup milk

Stewed apricot halves ly^ cups flour

Stewed prune halves 4 teaspoons baking powder

5 tablespoons shortening ^ teaspoon salt

Cream butter and brown sugar; add lemon rind; spread on
bottom of cake pan 8'' by 2''. Arrange apricot and prune halves
to form design on top of sugar mixture. Cream shortening, add
sugar slowly, then egg; beat well. Add milk alterr^ately with
flour, baking powder and salt sifted together. Mix thoroughly.
Pour batter carefully over fruit in pan; bake 50 minutes at
3 50° F. Turn onto serving platter, upside down.

^mni^mm

A FASCINATING VER-
SION OF JH
POPULAR UPSIDE'-
DOWN CAKEf APRA;
COT-PRUNE

DON'T RUN
AROUND IN
CIRCLES THINK-
ING OF NEW
DESSERTS —
THIS CHOCO-
LATE MARSH-
MALLOW ROLL
DOES IT FOR
YOU

IT'S NO GIFT
TO BAKE THIS
BEAUTIFUL
LAYER CAKE IF
YOU FOLLOW
THE SIMPLE
DIRECTIONS

OUT OF THE OVEN AND READY
TO SERVE V/HEN YOU BAKE
YOUR FRUITCAKE IN CLASS

CAKE HLLINGS AND
FROSTINGS

A TABLE giving the temperatures of boiling sugar sirup at
its various stages will be found on page 12.

Fillings — A filling is defined as "something that serves to
fill up a space or cavity." In connection with cakes, the
word is used to designate a soft, sweetened, cooked or uncooked
mixture that will spread easily. It is usually put between layers
to hold them together, or is put into a cavity in a cake; but
occasionally it is spread over the top and sides of a cake. Some-
times a frosting is used between the layers instead of a filling.

Frosting and Icing — ^A frosting is a preparation of sugar
and a liquid, which may or may not be combined with eggy
and may be cooked or uncooked. The term is derived from the
fact that the first sugar decorations of this sort were uncolored
and gave the effect of hoar-frost. The word is now used to
mean any sweet covering applied to cakes, whether white or
colored.

Icing has been used interchangeably with the word "frost-
ing" but more often in reference to the uncooked frostings.
In the beginning the word was probably used because the sub-
stance looked like ice, being translucently white instead of
frostily white. Therefore, it may be desirable to use the word
"icing" to mean a thin mixture of confectioners' sugar and a
liquid, spread on to give a glazed surface; and to keep the term
"frosting" for a thicker, more opaque coating.

Applying Fillings and Frostings

Cakes should be cooled and the surface should be free from
loose crumbs before a filling or frosting is applied, and the filling
or frosting should be cool enough so that it will not soak in.
Either the top or the bottom crust may be frosted, but the bot-
tom crust is likely to be softer and more level than the top
crust. This point should be considered also when fillings are to
be put between layers. Fillings usually hold layers together
better when the bottom crusts are placed together. A very

472

CAKE FILLINGS AND FROSTINGS 473

soft filling should not be used for a cake that is to be kept any
considerable time before it is eaten because the filling will soak
into the cake and make it soggy. Sometimes the shape of a loaf
cake makes it desirable to put the frosting on the bottom crust.
The frosting may extend over the top of a cake only or may
be spread over the sides. A well-made boiled frosting should
be soft, but not soft enough to run. A frosting may be put on
with a very smooth surface, may be left rough, or may be
scored in ridges or designs.

Fillings
APPLE FILLING

2 apples 1 lemon 1 cup sugar

Pare two large, sour apples and grate them into a saucepan^
add the juice and grated rind of the lemon, and the sugar.
Cook for five minutes, stirring constantly. Cool before spread-
ing on cake.

CARAMEL FILLING

1/4 cups brown sugar 1 cup milk

1 tablespoon butter 1 ^ teaspoons vanilla

2 teaspoons corn-starch

Cook the sugar, corn-starch, milk and butter together in a
double boiler until thick. Remove from the fire and beat
vigorously until the mixture is stiff. Add flavoring. Cool be-
fore spreading on cake.

CHOCOLATE FILLING

No. 1.

1/4 squares chocolate 1 egg-yolk

y^ cup milk Yz teaspoon butter

1 cup brown sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla

Melt the chocolate over hot water, in a double boiler; add the
milk, and cook together, stirring until the mixture is thick
and creamy. Add sugar and beaten egg-yolk, stir until smooth
and cook ^lvq minutes. Add the butter. Beat well. Remove
from heat and add flavoring. Cool before spreading on cake.

474

No. 2.

1/4 squares chocolate 1 cup powdered sugar

Yi cup cream Yz teaspoon butter

1 egg-yolk Y2 teaspoon vanilla

Melt the chocolate over hot water, In a double boiler. Mix
the cream and beaten yolk and add gradually, then the butter.
Stir in the sugar and cook until thick. Remove from fire.
Add flavoring. Cool before spreading on cake.

No. 1. COCONUT FILLING

1 tablespoon gelatin Y2 cup sugar
Yz cup cold water 3 egg-whites

Yz cup boiling water 1 Yz cups moist coconut

Soak gelatin in the cold water until soft; then dissolve it in
the boiling water. Add sugar and stir until it is dissolved.
Allow gelatin to cool partly. When it begins to set, beat the
egg-whites until stiff and beat in the gelatin. Fold in the
coconut and spread upon the layers.

No. 2.

lYz cups moist coconut 4 tablespoons confectioners'

2 egg-whites sugar

Beat the egg-whites stiff and add the sugar and coconut
gradually. Spread the mixture thickly over the cake. If you
like, sprinkle the surface with dry shredded coconut.

MARTHA WASHINGTON FILLING

iy2 cups milk 14 ^^P cold water

1 cup sugar ^ cup rum, brandy or whisky

2 tablespoons flour % cup candied cherries, chopped

3 Ggg yolks ^2 ^P citron, chopped
2 tablespoons gelatin 1 cup whipped cream

Scald milk. Add sugar and flour to beaten egg yolks. Add to
scalded milk and cook over hot water until eggs are done. Re-
move from heat. Add gelatin which has been soaked in the cold
water. Chill. Add liquor, beat with rotary beater and chill again.
Fold the fruit and cream into the mixture. Pile between layers
of sponge cake. Top with whipped cream.

CAKE FILLINGS AND FROSTINGS 475

Chocolate — Use 2 squares bitter chocolate, melted over hot
water, omit liquor, add J/g teaspoon salt, dash cinnamon and
increase sugar to 1 ^ cups.

Coffee — Scald milk with two tablespoons ground coffee,
strain, and make same as cream filling, omitting liquor.

Orange — Use half orange-juice and half milk and add two
tablespoons grated orange rind to ingredients above, omitting
the liquor. If you like, add one tablespoon lemon-juice.

WHIPPED CREAM FILLING

Yz tablespoon gelatin ^ cup powdered sugar

y^ cup cold water 1 teaspoon vanilla

2 cups cream ^ cup boiling water

Soak the gelatin in the cold water until softened. Whip the
cream in a pan set in ice-water and sift the sugar over it. Add
the vanilla. Pour the boiling water upon the gelatin and, when
it is dissolved and cooled, strain it over the whipped cream.
Then beat rapidly with a flat whip, turning the pan with the
left hand while beating with the right. Beat until the gelatin
is thoroughly blended with the cream. Set in a cool place.
When the filling is nearly stiff, spread it on the cake layers.

WHIPPED CREAM MOCHA FILLING

Vz pint cream 1 1/^ tablespoons Mocha

2 tablespoons sugar extract or strong coffee

Whip the cream in a bowl set in ice-water; add the extract
or coffee and the sugar. Beat well.

If the top of the cake is spread with this filling, three-fourths
cup of chopped nut-meats may be sprinkled over it.

FRUIT FILLING

14 pound single or mixed fruit 1 cup sugar

1 cup water 1 teaspoon vanilla

Chop the fruit fine and boil in the water, if necessary, until
tender. Add sugar and cook slowly until smooth and thick.
Remove from the heat, add vanilla and cool.

476

MIXTURE FOR UPSIDE-DOWN CAKES

2 tablespoons butter Fresh or canned fruit

4 tablespoons sugar (white, brown or maple)

In a deep cake pan or heavy skillet, melt 2 tablespoons butter.
Sprinkle 4 tablespoons sugar over bottom of pan and cover with
well-drained sour cherries (or other canned or fresh fruit).
Pour batter or light yeast dough over this layer and bake at
425° F. for 30 minutes.

FRUIT AND NUT FILLING

1 cup chopped raisins 1 egg-white
54 cup chopped nuts Currant jelly
Yz cup shredded coconut

Mix the raisins, nuts and coconut and add them to the stiffly
beaten egg-white. Spread the layers of cake with a thin layer
of currant jelly, then with a thick layer of the filling, and put
together.

TUTTI-FRUTTI FILLING

y^ pound seeded or seedless Chopped walnuts

raisins % pound maraschino cherries

y^ pound figs y^ pound maple sugar

yz pound dates J4 cup water

Put raisins and figs in colander over a kettle of hot water
and allow them to steam for about one hour. Then add dates,
which have been pitted, and steam for fifteen minutes longer.
Remove from steamer, add cherries, and chop all the fruit fine.
Bring the maple sugar and water to a boil and pour it over the
fruit. Mix well. When cool, spread between layers and on
top of the cake and sprinkle with chopped walnuts.

No. 1. LEMON FILLING

2 tablespoons flour Juice and grated rind of
% cup cold water 1 lemon

1 egg-yolk 2 teaspoons butter

yz cup sugar

Make a smooth paste of the flour and two tablespoons of the
cold water. Cook the rest of the water, the sugar, grated
lemon-rind and butter. When the sugar is dissolved and mix-

CAKE FILLINGS AND FROSTINGS 477

ture boiling, stir in the flour mixture slowly. Cook until clear
and smooth, about fifteen minutes. Add lemon-juice and
beaten egg-yolk and cook two minutes. Cool before spreading
on cake.

No. 2.

3 egg-yolks Juice and grated rind of

1 cup sugar 2 lemons

Yz cup butter or other fat

Beat the egg-yolks until thick, add the other ingredients and
cook in a double boiler, stirring constantly, until the mixture
is thick and smooth. Cool before spreading on cake.

MAPLE CREAM FILLING

2' cups maple-sirup 1 tablespoon butter

Ya cup milk Salt

Cook sirup, milk, butter, and salt together to the soft-ball
stage (238° F.). Cool and beat until creamy. Use as a filling
for cakes, cream-puffs or tarts.

ORANGE FILLING

2 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon grated orange

54 cup granulated sugar rind

2 eggs beaten 1 tablespoon lemon-juice
Yz cup orange-juice

Combine all ingerdients and mix well. Cook over hot water,
stirring constantly, until well thickened, about ten minutes.
Chill well before spreading on cake.

PRUNE FILLING

y^ pound prunes ^ cup rhubarb-juice or

Yz tablespoon gelatin pineapple-juice

4 tablespoons cold water Y2. cup whipped cream
Y2 cup sugar

"Wash the prunes, soak over night in water to cover, and cook
slowly until soft. Remove pits and rub pulp through a coarse
sieve. Soak the gelatin in cold water. When soft, add it to

478

the hot prune pulp and stir until the gelatin dissolves. Add
sugar and fruit- juice. When the filling has cooled^ fold in the
whipped cream.

WALNUT FILLING

2 cups brown sugar
^ cup water
2 egg-whites

Yz teaspoon vanilla

Yz cup chopped walnut-meats

Cook the sugar and water, stirring occasionally until the
sugar is dissolved. Boil without stirring until sirup will form
a thread when dropped from the tip of the spoon (234° F.).
Remove from the fire and cool while beating the egg-whites stiff ,-
then pour the sirup in a thin stream on the egg-whites, beating
the mixture constantly until it is thick enough to spread. Add
flavoring and nuts. Cool before spreading on cake. Chopped
nut-meats may be sprinkled over the top of the cake.

Frostings
CONFECTIONERS' FROSTING

1^ egg-white Y2 cup confectioners' sugar Yz teaspoon vanilla

Beat the egg-white stiff and add the sugar gradually; con-
tinue beating until the mixture is smooth and light. Add
flavoring.

EGGLESS CONFECTIONERS' FROSTING

2 tablespoons milk or 1 cup confectioners* sugar

water Y2 teaspoon vanilla

Stir the sugar gradually into the milk or water. Add
vanilla. More sugar may be added if the frosting is not thick
enough.

Any fruit-juice or flavored liquid such as strong coffee or
maple -sirup may be used instead of milk or water.

Crushed berries mixed with the sugar give a pleasing frosting.

Two tablespoons cocoa may be mixed with the sugar.

One-half square of melted chocolate may be added.

CAKE FILLINGS AND FROSTINGS 479

BOILED FROSTING

1 cup sugar 1, 2, or 3 egg-whites
Yz cup water Yz teaspoon vanilla

Cook the sugar and water together, stirring until the sugar
has dissolved. Then cook without stirring. For one egg-white,
cook to 238° F.; for two egg-whites, cook to 244° F.; and for
three egg-whites, cook to 254° F. Remove from the fire and
allow it to cool while you are beating the egg-white stiff, then
pour the sirup in a thin stream over the stiff white, beating the
mixture constantly until thick enough to spread.

ORNAMENTAL OR TWICE-COOKED FROSTING

XYz cups granulated sugar 1 teaspoon flavoring extract

Y2 cup water Yz teaspoon cream of tartar

2 egg-whites

Boil sugar and water without stirring until the sirup will
form a soft ball in cold water (234° F.) ; add very slowly to
beaten egg-whites; add flavoring and cream of tartar and beat
until smooth and stiff enough to spread. Put over boiling
water, stirring continually until icing grates slightly on bottom
of bowl.

SEVEN-MINUTE ICING

1 unbeaten egg-white 3 tablespoons cold water

Y^ cup granulated sugar ^ teaspoon flavoring extract

Place all the ingredients in the top of a double boiler. Place
over boiling water and beat with beater for seven minutes.
Add flavoring, beat, and spread on cake.

Chocolate — Add to above one and one-half ounces melted
unsweetened chocolate two minutes before taking from fire.

Coffee — Use cold boiled coffee in place of water.

CARAMEL FROSTING

1 cup brown sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla or

Yz cup water Y2 teaspoon lemon extract

2 egg-whites

Make a sirup of the sugar and water and cook to the soft-ball
stage (238° F.). Remove from the fire and cool while the

48o

egg-whites are beaten, then pour the sirup in a thin stream on
to the stiff whites, beating the mixture constantly \mtil thick
enough to spread. Add the flavoring.

Chopped nuts may be stirred into the frosting just before
spreading.

CHOCOLATE FROSTING

1 square chocolate 1 egg-white

3 tablespoons granulated 8 tablespoons confectioners'

sugar sugar

1 tablespoon water J/2 tablespoon vanilla

Cook the chocolate, granulated sugar and water together,
stirring until the mixture is smooth and glossy. Beat the white
of the egg enough to thin it, but not to make it frothy; add
the confectioners' sugar, stir until smooth and light, then add
the chocolate mixture and vanilla. Cool before spreading on
the cake.

COFFEE-BUTTER FROSTING

1/4 cups confectioners' Y^ cup butter

sugar 1 tablespoon strong cotfee

1 tablespoon dry cocoa

Cream the butter and add gradually the sugar and cocoa
mixed together. Beat well. Stir in the coffee. Ornamental
designs may be made by forcing the frosting through a pastry-
bag or syringe, using the various tips to produce the desired
designs.

FUDGE FROSTING

2 cups sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla

Vz cup milk 6 marshmallows or 2 heaping

1 Yz tablespoons butter tablespoons marshmallow

2 squares chocolate whip
1 tablespoon corn sirup

Put first ^ve ingredients into a saucepan and boil to soft ball
stage (234° F.). Remove from fire and stir in the marshmal-
lows just until they dissolve. Cool and add vanilla and beat
until right consistency to spread on cake.

^^'

sf^i

FINISH TOP

TRANSFORMA-
TION BEFORE
YOUR EYES—
THIS IS HOW
IT'S DONE

CAKE FILLINGS AND FROSTINGS 481

HONEY FROSTING

1 cup honey 2 egg-whites

Boil the honey about ten minutes (238° F.). Remove from
the fire and cool while the egg-whites are beaten stiff, then
pour the honey in a thin stream over them, beating the mixture
constantly until thick enough to spread. Cool before spread-
ing.

MAPLE-SUGAR FROSTING

No. 1.

2 cups maple sugar 1 cup cream

Break the maple sugar into small pieces, put into a saucepan
and heat slowly with the cream. Stir until the sugar is
thoroughly dissolved, then boil without stirring until a soft
ball can be shaped between the fingers when the mixture is
tried in cold water (238° F.) . Care must be taken not to have
the heat too great, as this mixture will burn easily. Remove
from the fire and beat until thick enough to spread.

No. 2.

y^ cup maple-sirup 1 egg-white

y^ cup sugar

Cook the sirup and sugar together until it spins a thread
(220° F.) when dropped from a spoon. Pour this sirup slowly
over the beaten egg-white and beat until cold. This icing is
quickly made and may be used to give a maple flavor to simple,
inexpensive cakes or cookies.

No. 3.

2 cups maple sugar 54 cup boiling water

2 egg-whites

Make a sirup of the maple sugar and water and boil to the
soft-ball stage (238° F.), remove from the fire and cool while
the egg-whites are beaten stiff, then pour the sirup in a thin
stream, over the stiff whites, beating the mixture until it is
thick enough to spread. A rough surface may be obtained by
spreading the top of the cake with the back of a spoon before
the frosting is set.

482

MAPLE MARSHMALLOW FROSTING

1 cup maple sugar 6 marshmallows or 2 table-
Yz cup boiling water spoons marshmallow cream

2 egg-whites Yz teaspoon vanilla

Cook the sugar and water together, stirring until the sugar is
dissolved; then cook without stirring to the soft-ball stage
(238° F.) add the marshmallow to the hot sirup, pressing it
under the surface so that it will melt. If marshmallow candies
are used, cut them into small pieces. Pour the sirup in a thin
stream on to the stiffly beaten egg-whites, beating the mixture
constantly with a spoon. Add vanilla. Cool before spreading.

MARSHMALLOW-CREAM FROSTING

%. cup sugar 6 marshmallows or 2 table-

Y4 cup milk spoons marshmallow cream

2 tablespoons hot water Y2 teaspoon vanilla

Put the milk and sugar into a saucepan, bring slowly to the
boiling-point and boil for Hve minutes. Place the marshmallow
in a double boiler with hot water and vanilla. Stir until the
mixture is smooth, then add the milk and sugar sirup graduallyjj
stirring constantly. Beat until cool, then spread.

MILK FROSTING

1 teaspoon butter Y2 cup milk

IY2 cups sugar Y2 teaspoon vanilla

Put the butter into a saucepan and, when it is melted, add the
sugar and milk. Stir until the boiling-point is reached and then
boil for ten minutes without stirring (23 5° F.). Remove from
the fire, add vanilla, and beat until of spreading consistency.

MOCHA FROSTING

IY2 teaspoons Mocha extract 1 cup confectioners' sugar

or strong coffee 2 tablespoons water

Mix the extract or coffee with the sugar and stir into the
water, gradually, rubbing out all lumps. After the frosting is
spread on the cake, three-fourths of a cup of chopped nut-
meats may be sprinkled over the top.

COOKIES, DOUGHNUTS,
GINGERBREAD AND
. SMALL CAKES

COOKIE doughs range from very soft to very stiff. What-
ever the degree of stiffness, a cookie dough is always easier
to handle if it is allowed to stand for a time (ten to thirty
minutes) in a cold place before it is rolled. This allows the
moisture to be thoroughly absorbed and hardens the fat, and
both of these conditions tend to prevent the dough from being
sticky even though it is soft.

Materials Used in Cookies — Butter or any other shorten-
ing preferred may be used in cookies. See Index for materials
used in cake making.

Soft Doughs may be dropped from a spoon on to a baking-
sheet or may be rolled and shaped with a cutter, a knife or a
pastry wheel. They are more difficult to roll out than stiff
doughs, and some practise is necessary to obtain perfect results
in manipulating them in this way.

Stiff Doughs are usually rolled out and shaped by cutting.
Sometimes they are made into small balls and flattened by
pressure from the hand, a broad knife or a rolling-pin.

Rolling and Cutting Cookies

In Rolling Any Dough, take out on the lightly floured
board only as much as can be handled easily. Flour the rolling-
pin and use only as much pressure as is necessary to spread the
dough out into a sheet of the desired thickness. If the dough
is too soft to be rolled, more flour may be worked in, but the
texture of the finished cookie will be harder in proportion to
the amount of flour added.

Dip the Cutter, knife or wheel in flour, and cut the shapes
as close together as possible. Lift the cookies on a broad knife
or spatula and lay them on a greased baking-sheet, allowing a
little space between for possible spreading.

483

484

Save all the Trimmings for the last rolling. The last
cookies will not be of the same texture as the first because of
the extra flour which will be worked into the dough in the
process of mixing the trimmings into a mass to be rolled again.

FROSTED DELIGHTS

^ cup shortening 1% cups pastry or cake flour

1 cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder

2 eggs % teaspoon vanilla extraa
1^ teaspoon salt

Cream shortening and sugar until light and fluffy. Add beat-
en eggs and sifted dry ingredients. Add vanilla and mix well.
Spread the batter onto a baking sheet as thinly as possible and
frost with the following:

Remove lumps from 1 cup brown sugar and fold into 1 stiff-
ly beaten egg white. Spread onto cookie batter, sprinkle with 1
cup chopped nuts and bake in moderate oven (325° F.) 30
minutes. Cut in squares. Makes 24 to 36.

SUGAR COOKIES

% cup shortening 2 teaspoons baking-powder

1 cup sugar ^ cup milk

2 eggs Yz teaspoon salt

3 cups flour Yz teaspoon vanilla

Cream the shortening and mix well with the sugar, add the
beaten egg, then the flour, baking-powder and salt sifted to-
gether, alternating with the milk. Roll and cut in any desired
shape. Sprinkle with sugar before baking. Bake in a moderate
oven (3 50°-375° F., 10-12 minutes).

RICH COOKIES

Vz cup shortening ^ cup flour

Yi cup sugar Y2 teaspoon vanilla

1 egg well beaten Raisins, nuts or citron

Cream the shortening, add sugar gradually, egg, flour, and
vanilla. Drop from tip of spoon in small portions on buttered
sheet two inches apart. Spread thin with a knife first dipped
in cold water and bake quickly at 375° F. Put four Sultana
raisins on each cookie, almonds blanched and cut in strips, or
citron cut in small pieces.

COOKIES, DOUGHNUTS, ETC. 485

SAND TARTS

y^ cup shortening 2 teaspoons baking-powder

1 cup sugar % teaspoon cinnamon

1 t%% Nuts or raisins
1/4 cups flour

Cream shortening, add sugar slowly, then the unbeaten ^^%,
Sift in the flour and baking-powder, and add more flour if neces-
sary to make a stiflF dough. Roll out very thin. Cut with a
doughnut cutter. Sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon, and, if
desired, decorate with nuts or fruit. Bake in a moderate oven
(350°-375° F., 10-12 minutes).

CARAWAY COOKIES

Yz cup shortening 2 teaspoons baking-powder

1 cup sugar Vz teaspoon salt

1 t%% Ya cup milk

2 cups flour 1 Yz tablespoons caraway seeds

Cream the shortening with the sugar; add beaten q%%. Mix
and sift the flour, baking-powder, and salt, and add alternately
with the milk to the first mixture. Add caraway seeds. Toss
on lightly floured board. Roll out about one-half inch thick
and cut in fancy shapes. Place on greased baking-sheet and
bake in moderate oven (350° F.).

ICEBOX COOKIES

Ya cup butter 1 teaspoon salt

y^ cup other shortening 1 teaspoon cinnamon

2 cups medium brown sugar 2 teaspoons baking-powder

4 eggs 5 cups flour

Cream the shortenings together and with the sugar. Add
the well-beaten eggs and beat well. Sift all the dry ingredients
together and add to the first mixture. Pack the dough into a
butter carton, or form into roll. Wrap in wax paper and put
in the coldest part of the refrigerator for several hours. Slice
as thin as possible with a very sharp knife, place on a greased
baking-sheet, and bake for ten minutes in a moderate oven
(375° F.). A part of the mixture may be baked and the re-
mainder kept in the refrigerator for later use.

486

LEMON WAFERS

1 cup shortening 3 tablespoons lemon-juice

2 cups sugar Flour

3 eggs

Cream the shortening, add the sugar, the well-beaten eggs,
and the lemon- juice. Stir in only enough flour to make as
soft a dough as can be rolled. Roll very thin and shape with a
cutter. Bake in a moderate oven (3 50°-375° F., 10-12 min-
utes).

FILLED COOKIES

1 cup sugar 3 cups flour

3^ cup shortening 3 teaspoons baking-powder

2 eggs Yz teaspoon salt
Yi cup milk 1 teaspoon vanilla

Mix ingredients in order given, sifting the flour with the
baking-powder and salt before adding it. Roll thin, cut, and
put in greased pans. Place a teaspoon of filling on each, not
allowing it to spread to the edge, place another cookie on top,
press down the edges, and bake in shallow pans in a quick oven
(400°-425° F., 10-15 minutes).

Filling —

Yz cup sugar 1 cup chopped raisins, dates,

1 tablespoon flour figs, prunes, apricots or

Yz cup water marmalade

Mix sugar and flour together, add to the other ingredients,
and cook until thick, stirring constantly.

BROWN SUGAR COOKIES

2 cups brown sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup melted shortening 2 teaspoons baking-powder

3 eggs Flour to mix stiff
Ya cup milk

Mix ingredients in order given. Add just enough flour to
roll. Cut into shapes as desired. Sprinkle with brown sugar^
and bake in a moderate oven (350°-375° F., 10-12 minutes).

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COOKIES, DOUGHNUTS, ETC. 487

CHOCOLATE DROP COOKIES

2 squares chocolate 1 egg

Yz cup shortening 2 cups flour

1 cup brown sugar Yz cup sweet milk
Yz teaspoon soda

Melt the chocolate and add to the melted shortening. Add
sugar, egg and milk, then the soda and flour sifted together.
Drop by spoonfuls on greased pans, and bake in a moderate
oven (375°-400° F., 12-15 minutes). Frost, if desired.

I BROWNIES

2 squares chocolate Y2 teaspoon salt
Y4 cup shortening Y2 cup flour

1 cup white sugar Y2 cup nuts

Melt chocolate and add it to the melted shortening. Add
sugar, eggy salt and flour and chopped nuts. Pour into greased
baking-pans, and bake in a moderate oven (3 50°-400° F.)
about twenty minutes. They will look half baked, but mark
oflF in squares or strips when you take them from the oven, and
they will harden as they cool. Remove from the pans when
cool. Serve with afternoon tea. These resemble fudge in taste
and appearance.

NUT COOKIES

54 cup shortening 2 teaspoons baking-powder

Yz cup sugar Yz teaspoon salt

2 eggs 1 tablespoon milk

1 cup flour 1 cup chopped nuts

1 teaspoon vanilla or almond

t Cream shortening and sugar, add eggs well beaten. Sift dry
ingredients together and add alternately with milk. Stir in nuts
and flavoring and mix well. Drop from teaspoon on a greased
baking-sheet and place a nut on top of each. Bake in a moderate
oven (375° -400° F., 12-15 minutes). This makes about three
dozen cookies.

488

CRISP GINGER COOKIES

% cup sugar 2 teaspoons ginger

1 cup molasses ]^ cup vinegar

1 cup shortening Flour to mold
1 teaspoon soda

Mix sugar, molasses and vinegar. Add melted shortening.
Sift soda and ginger with one cup of flour and add mixture.
Add enough flour to roll very thin. Bake in a moderate oven
(375° F.) watching carefully^ as ginger cookies burn rather
easily.

PEANUT COOKIES

54 cup shortening Yz teaspoon salt

1 cup brown sugar 2 cups flour

2 eggs 2 teaspoons baking-powder
54 cup milk 1 cup chopped peanuts

Melt shortening; add brown sugar, eggs and milk. Add sifted
salt, flour and baking-powder, and chopped peanuts. Drop by
teaspoonfuls on greased pans, an inch or two apart. Place a
half peanut on each and bake in a quick oven (400° F.).

SOFT MOLASSES COOKIES

1 cup shortening 2 teaspoons soda

% cup sugar 1 teaspoon ginger

1 cup molasses J/2 teaspoon salt

y^ cup sour milk 2J/2 cups flour

Cream the shortening and the sugar and add the molasses and
milk. Mix well and add dry ingredients mixed and sifted to-
gether. Mix thoroughly. Roll the dough thin and cut in
rounds. Chilling the dough before rolling makes it easier to
handle. Bake in greased sheet in moderate hot oven (375° F.).

GINGER SNAPS

1, cup molasses 3 cups flour

Yz cup shortening 1 teaspoon soda

J4 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons ginger

Heat the molasses and shortening. Mix and sift the dry in-
gredients and add to first mixture. Thoroughly chill, toss on

COOKIES, DOUGHNUTS, ETC. 489

lightly floured board, and roll out very thin. Cut as desired.
The bowl containing the remaining dough must be kept in a
cool place or it will be necessary to add more flour. Excess
flour will make the cookies hard and unattractive. Put on
greased baking-sheet and bake in a moderate oven (375° F.,
8-10 minutes).

SOUR MILK JUMBLES

1 cup shortening 2 teaspoons baking-powder

2 cups sugar ^ teaspoon salt

3 eggs Yz teaspoon soda

1 cup sour milk Y2 nutmeg, grated

6 cups flour

Cream the shortening with the sugar and add the eggs, well
beaten. Mix and sift the dry ingredients and add them to the
sugar and shortening alternately with the milk. Roll out in
a thick sheet and cut with a doughnut cutter. Bake in a moder-
ate hot oven (375° F.).

RAISIN ROCKS

1 cup shortening 1 teaspoon ginger

1 cup brown sugar 1 teaspoon soda

1 teaspoon salt 2 cups molasses

Flour 1 cup seeded raisins

Put the shortening, sugar, molasses, ginger and salt into a
saucepan together. Stir the mixture until it boils; then boil
it five minutes. Pour into a bowl and stir in flour and soda
sifted together until it is just stiff enough to drop from a spoon.
Add the raisins and drop by spoonfuls on to a greased shallow
pan. Bake the rocks in a moderate oven (375°-400° F.).

MAPLE-SUGAR ROCKS

1 cup shortening 3 eggs

1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 Yz cups maple sugar

1 cup walnuts 2 J/2 cups flour

Melt shortening, add crushed maple sugar, Q-^%Sy and cinna-
mon. Mix together and add chopped nuts and flour. Drop
bjr spoonfuls on greased pans, and bake in a moderate oven
(375^-400° F.).

490

HERMITS

/i cup shortening 1 tablespoon molasses

Yz cup sugar 1 teaspoon each of various

2 eggs desired spices

" 2 tablespoons milk 2 teaspoons baking-powder

1 cup chopped raisins Flour

Cream shortening, add sugar gradually. Add eggs, molasses,
milk and raisins. Sift baking-powder and spices with one cup
of flour, and mix all thoroughly. Add enough flour to make
quite a stiff dough, and roll. Bake in a moderate oven (375°-
400° R).

HONEY HERMITS

lYi cups strained honey 1 cup chopped raisins

y^ cup shortening 1 ^ teaspoons cinnamon

2 eggs Yz, teaspoon cloves
Y2 cup milk "hYi cups flour

Y2 teaspoon salt 4 teaspoons baking-powder

Mix strained honey and melted shortening. Add eggs, milk,
salt and raisins. Sift cinnamon, cloves, and baking-powder with
the flour. Beat well, and drop on a greased pan. Bake in a
moderate oven (375° -400° F.) until brown.

HONEY GINGERNUTS

1 cup strained honey 1 t^^

1 cup sugar 1 tablespoon ginger

1 cup melted shortening 1 cup chopped nuts

2 teaspoons baking-powder Flour

Mix honey, sugar, melted shortening and beaten egg. Add
chopped nuts, then baking-powder and ginger sifted with one
cup of flour. Add more flour to make a batter of the right
consistency to drop from a spoon on to a greased pan. Bake
in a moderate oven (375° -400° F.).

COOKIES, DOUGHNUTS, ETC. 491

ROLLED OATS COOKIES

1 cup sugar Yz teaspoon soda

y^ cup mblasses 2 cups flour

1 cup shortening 1 cup chopped raisins sprin-

2 Q%%s kled with 2 tablespoon<=
y^ cup sweet milk flour

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 2 cups rolled oats

1 teaspoon ground cloves

Mix ingredients in the order given. Melt the shortening be-
fore adding it, and sift the soda and spices with the flour. Drop
by teaspoonfuls on greased pans and bake in a moderate oven
(375^-400° R).

Doughnuts, Crullers and Sweet Fritters

Sweet Milk— DOUGHNUTS

2 tablespoons shortening 1 teaspoon salt

1 cup sugar J/2 teaspoon nutmeg

3 eggs yz teaspoon lemon extract
1 cup milk Flour

3 teaspoons baking-powder

Beat the eggs till very light, add the sugar and when foamy
add the melted shortening. Sift the baking-powder, salt and
nutmeg with one cup of flour and stir into first mixture, alter-
nating with the milk. Add the lemon flavoring and just enough
flour to make a soft dough which can be handled. Roll out
three-fourths inch thick on a lightly floured board. A soft
dough makes light, tender doughnuts when cooked. Fry in
deep fat (3 60° -370° F.) and drain on unglazed paper. If
you have no thermometer test the fat for temperature as di-
rected on page 26.

Sour Milk —

1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon baking-powder

2 tablespoons sour cream J/2 teaspoon salt

or shortening y^ teaspoon lemon extract

3 t%^s yz teaspoon nutmeg

1 cup sour milk 4^ cups flour (more or less)

yz teaspoon soda

Mix the sugar with the cream and add the beaten eggs and
sour milk. Sift the other dry ingredients with one cup of flour

492

and add to the first mixture. Add additional flour to make a
dough just stiff enough to handle. Toss on a floured board, roll
out, and cut. Fry in deep fat (3 60° -370° F.). If you have
no thermometer, test temperature of fat as directed on page 26.
Drain on unglazed paper. When cold, roll in powdered sugar.

Raisei>— (The recipe for raised doughnuts is given on page
114.)

CRULLERS

1/4 cup shortening

^Yz teaspoons baking-powder

1 cup sugar

54 teaspoon grated nutmeg

2 eggs

Yz teaspoon salt

1 cup milk

Flour

Cream the shortening. Add sugar; then the well-beaten eggs.
Sift the baking-powder, nutmeg, and salt with one cup of flour
and add alternately with the milk to the first mixture. Add
additional flour to make a dough stiff enough to handle. Toss
on floured board, roll one-half inch thick and cut into strips.
Twist and fry in deep fat (360°-370° F.). If you have no
thermometer, test temperature of fat as directed on page 26.
Drain on unglazed paper and when cold roll in powdered sugar.
This recipe makes about three dozen crullers.

FRITTER BATTER

1 Y3 cups flour 34 cup milk

Y4 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons powdered sugar

2 teaspoons baking-powder (for sweet fritters only)

Sift dry ingredients, add egg, well beaten, and milk. The
batter should be just thick enough to coat the article it is in-
tended to cover. If it is too thin, add more flour; if too thick,
add more liquid.

APPLE FRITTERS

1 cup milk 2 cups flour

2 eggs 1 tablespoon baking-powder
1 teaspoon sugar Apples

Salt

To the milk add the well-beaten egg-yolks and the sugar,
then the flour mixed and sifted with the baking-powder and

COOKIES, DOUGHNUTS, ETC. 493

the salt. Then fold in the stiffly beaten whites. Add sliced
sour apples, being careful to get the batter all over them. Drop
by spoonfuls into deep fat (360°-370° F.) and fry two to three
minutes. Serve with powdered sugar or foamy sauce.

BANANA FRITTERS

6 bananas 3 tablespoons orange-juice

2 tablespoons sugar Fritter batter

Peel bananas, cut each in two and split each half. Place the>
pieces in a bowl with sugar and orange-juice and let them stand
for one hour. Drain the fruit, dip in batter and fry in deep
fat (3 60° -370° F.) from two to three minutes. Serve with
powdered sugar or foamy sauce.

PEACH FRITTERS

Peaches Fritter batter Powdered sugar

Peel the peaches, split them in two, remove the stones, sprinkle
powdered sugar over them, dip each piece into fritter batter
and fry two to three minutes in deep fat (3 60° -370° F.).
Serve with powdered sugar or foamy sauce.

RASPBERRY FRITTERS

1 cup floxir 2 eggs

1 teaspoon baking powder 2 to 3 tablespoons water

1 teaspoon salt 1 cup raspberries

2 tablespoons sugar

Sift together flour, baking powder and salt. Add sugar^
egg-yolks and water. Fold in the stiffly beaten egg-whites and
the raspberries leaving the fruit as nearly whole as possible.
The amount of water may vary somewhat. The batter should
be thin enough to fold in the fruit, but thick enough to hold
together well; otherwise, the fruit in cooking will soften it
too much.

Drop the fritter mixture from a tablespoon into deep fat
(3 60° -370° F.) and fry until brown, turning once. Serve
with powdered sugar or foamy sauce.

494

Gingerbread and Small Cakes
GINGERBREAD

Sugar and Molasses —

Vz cup molasses ^/^ teaspoon soda

Yz cup sugar 1 cup flour

Yz cup melted shortening 1 teaspoon ginger

Yz cup sour milk 2 teaspoons cinnamon

1 Q,^^ Nutmeg

Mix ingredients in order given, sifting the soda with the flotu:
before adding it. Bake in a moderate oven (350°-375° F.)
in a greased shallow pan or in muffin-tins. Care must be taken
to prevent burning.

Gingerbread makes a delicious dessert served with whipped
cream.

Soft Molasses —

^ cup shortening Yz teaspoon salt

1 cup molasses 1 tablespoon ginger

1 tablespoon vinegar 1 cup sour milk

1 Q.^^ 2 cups flour
1 teaspoon soda

Melt the shortening; add the molasses, vinegar, and beaten
Q^^, Mix and sift the dry ingredients and add alternately with
the milk. Pour into a greased pan and bake thirty to forty
minutes Jn a moderate oven (350°-375° F.). Batter should be
just thin enough so that the track left by the spoon in stirring
disaooears at once.

Hot Water —

Yz cup shortening 1J4 teaspoons ginger

Yz cup boiling water 1 teaspoon soda

1 cup molasses Yz teaspoon salt
2Yz cups flour

Melt the shortening in the boiling water. Add molasses. Sift
the dry ingredients together and add them to the mixture. Beat
vigorously. Put in a greased pan and bake in a moderate oven
(350*^-375° F.) thirty to forty minutes.

COOKIES, DOUGHNUTS, ETC. 495

NUT CAKES

2 eggs 2 teaspoons baking-powder

54 cup molasses Yz teaspoon salt

Yz cup sugar 1 tablespoon shortening

1 cup flour Yz cup chopped nut-meats

Beat die eggs slightly and add the molasses and sugar. Mix
and sift the flour, baking-powder and salt, and stir them into
the first mixture. Add melted shortening and nuts, and half
fill shallow greased molds with the mixture. Place a nut-meat
in the center of each. Bake in a moderate oven (375° F.) for
twent7-five minutes.

TEA CAKES

2 tablespoons melted shorten- 1 cup milk

ing 3 teaspoons baking-powder

Yz cup sugar 2 cups flour

1 Qg^ 1 cup chopped nuts

Cream the shortening with the sugar; add the beaten eg^i
then add the milk alternately with the sifted ingredients. Add
the floured nuts last. Bake in greased muflfin-pans in a moderate
oven (375° F.). Split each cake, butter it, and sprinkle with
sugar and cinnamon or with grated maple sugar and chopped
nuts. Serve hot with afternoon tea.

LITTLE CHOCOLATE CAKES

5^ cup shortening 2 squares melted chocolate

1 cup sugar 1 cup flour

Yz cup milk 1 teaspoon baking-powder

2 eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla

Cream the shortening, add the sugar slowly, then the beaten
egg-yolks. Melt the chocolate and add. Add flour and baking-
powder sifted together, alternating with milk, then add vanilla
and fold in stiflly beaten egg-whites. Bake in greased muflSn-
pans in a moderate oven (375° F.).

496

MOCHA TORTE

4 eggs Yz cup flour

1 cup sugar Yz teaspoon vanilla

1 tablespoon melted butter 1 teaspoon baking-powder

1 cup ground nuts Y2 teaspoon salt

Separate the eggs and add sugar to the yolks, beating until
creamy. Beat in the butter and add the flour sifted with the
baking-powder and salt. Add vanilla. Beat the whites of the
eggs, then add the ground nuts, stirring them into the first
mixture. Bake in two layers for fifteen minutes in a moderate
oven (3 50° F.).

Filling —

Y2 pint cream 1 tablespoon confectioners'

1 tablespoon essence of coffee sugar

Beat the cream until it is stiff enough to hold its shape, add
the coffee and sugar and put the filling between and on top
of the layers. Use a pastry tube to make it decorative.

PETITS FOURS

4 eggs 1 cup flour

1 cup sugar V/z teaspoons baking-powder

3 tablespoons cold water Ya teaspoon salt

1 Y2 tablespoons corn-starch Flavoring

To the beaten yolks of the eggs, add sugar and cold water.
Sift the corn-starch with the flour, baking-powder and salt.
Add to first mixture. Beat well and add the stifily beaten whites
of the eggs and any flavoring desired. Bake for one-half hour
in a moderate oven (375° F.) in shallow pans. When cool,
cut in small circles, split, scoop out a little of the crumb from
the center of each and fill cavities with whipped cream, custard,
or any preferred filling. Press together in pairs, dip in melted
fondant, decorate with nuts, glace fruits, and so forth, and place
each little cake in a paper case.

HALLOWE'EN CAKES

Cover the bottom of individual cake-tins with any good plain
cake batter, place a prepared emblem in the center of each and
cover with batter, filling tins not more than two-thirds full.

'^^

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A CLAMOROUS
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GAY LITTLE
PLUM PUD-
DINGS TO
SPREAD HOLI-
DAY SPIRITS
AND CHEER

ANY KIND OF BER-
RIES TAKES THE
CAKE— MAKE IT
SHORT AND SWEET

COOKIES, DOUGHNUTS, ETC. 497

Bake in an oven registering 375° F. till browned and firm to
the touch. Remove from tins and, when almost cold, cover
with a boiled frosting. Let threads of frosting fall irregularly
over the top to suggest "cobwebs in the sky." While the frost-
ing is still soft, stick a tiny orange-colored candle in the top
and press a black-cat cut-out against one side.

To Prepare Emblems — Sterilize small rings, thimbles, coins,
china dolls (no lead toys) or other appropriate bits in boiling
water. Dry and wrap closely in waxed paper.

MARSHMALLOW FIG CAKES

Angel cake Marshmallows

Chopped figs Maraschino cherries

Sirup of preserved ginger

Cut slices of angel cake into rounds. Moisten the figs with
the ginger sirup, and spread the paste over each round of cake.
Place a marshmallow in the center of each and bake in a mod-
erate oven (375° F.) until the marshmallows spread. Decorate
with maraschino cherries.

DATE SURPRISE

Bake any good plain cake batter in a cake-tin with a center
tube or remove the centers from cup cakes. Cover the outside
with plain white icing and fill the centers with date filling.
Garnish with whipped cream and candied cherries.

Date Filling —

1 cup steamed and chopped 6 marshmallows cut in small

dates

pieces

Yz cup chopped walnuts 1 cup sweetened whipped

Yz teaspoon vanilla cream

CREAM PUFFS

1 cup boiling water 1 cup flour

Yz cup shortening 4 eggs

Add the boiling water to the shortening, bring to a boil and
stir in the flour thoroughly. Remove from the fire, let the
mixture cool slightly and add the eggs one at a time, beating
in each one for some time before adding the next. Drop by

498

spoonfuls on a greased pan about two inches apart, shaping into
a circular form and having the batter a little higher in the cen-
ter. Bake one-half hour in a moderate to slow oven (400° F.
for ten minutes then reduce to 3 50° F.). If these cakes are re-
moved from the oven before they are thoroughly done, they
will fall. Take out one; if it does not fall, the others may be
removed.

Cool ; cut a slit in one side, and fill with cream filling, whipped
cream, or a fruit mixture.

Cream puffs and eclairs make an excellent foundation for a
great variety of desserts. Split them open; fill with any kind
of ice-cream; cover with any sauce or combination of sauces.
Serve immediately.

ECLAIRS

Make cream-puff batter (sometimes called choux paste) and
press it through a pastry bag on to a greased tin, forming strips
three and one-half inches long and one inch wide. Keep the
strips a little distance apart. Bake and cool as directed for
cream puffs, then split lengthwise, and fill with cream filling or
whipped cream. Frost the top half of the eclairs by dipping
while hot into boiled frosting, flavored with chocolate, vanilla,
or coffee.

LADY FINGERS

5 tablespoons powdered sugar Yz teaspoon vanilla

3 egg-whites ^ cup flour

2 egg-yolks y^ teaspoon salt

Add the powdered sugar to the stiffly beaten egg-whites. Add
to these the two well-beaten yolks and the vanilla extract. Fold
in the flour, which has been sifted twice with the salt. Line a
pan with paper but do not grease it. Press the batter through
a pastry bag on to the paper, forming strips four inches long
and one inch wide. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and bake
in a slow oven (300°-325° F.) for ten minutes.

SPONGE DROPS

Form lady-finger batter in a circular shape; bake, and dip the
tops of the cakes into boiled frosting of any flavor.

COOKIES, DOUGHNUTS, ETC. 499

MERINGUES AND KISSES

2 egg-whites Y'z. teaspoon vanilla or 1 table-

Yz to Ys cup powdered sugar spoon lemon-juice

Pinch of salt

Beat the egg-whites stiff, adding the salt. Add two-thirds of
the sugar gradually, beating constantly, and fold the rest care-
fiilly into the mixture. Heap in rounds or press through a
pastry bag on to a wet board covered with an ungreased paper.

Bake on the board in a very slow oven (250°-300° F.) from
forty to sixty minutes. The kisses should be very light brown
and quite dry. If they adhere to the paper, moisten the other
side of the paper by placing it on a wet cloth, and they will slip
off easily.

The smaller shapes or kisses may be stuck together in pairs
with a little white of egg. The meringues, which are usually
made larger, may be scooped out and filled with ice-cream or
whipped cream. Filled with ice-cream, they are known as
meringues glacees.

COCONUT KISSES

4 egg-whites Y2 teaspoon lemon extract

Yz pound powdered sugar Moist coconut

Beat the egg-whites stiflF, add sugar and beat until light and
white, then add the lemon extract, and enough coconut to make
it as thick as can be easily stirred with a spoon. Drop on greased
paper and bake in a slow oven (2 50° -300° F.).

KORNETTES

1 egg-white ^ cup chopped pop-corn
Yi cup light brown sugar Ya teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons shortening Y2 teaspoon vanilla

Beat the white of the Qgg very stiff and, still beating, mix in
the sugar. Melt the shortening and into this stir the chopped
pop-corn, salt and vanilla. Fold the two mixtures together and
drop by spoonfuls on a greased baking-sheet. Bake in a slow
oven (250°-300° F.).

500

RAISIN NUT DELIGHTS

3 egg-whites ^ cup broken pecans

Yz cup granulated sugar Yz cup seeded raisins

Beat the egg-whites until they are stiff enough to hold their
shape, then beat in the sugar gradually. Fold in the nuts and
raisins and drop from a spoon on to the baking-pan. Bake in
a slow oven (250°-300° F.).

Almond- MACAROONS

Yz pound sweet almonds Y2 pound powdered sugar

2 egg-whites

Blanch the almonds and pound them to a paste; add the
sugar and stiffly beaten egg-whites. Work the whole together
with the back of a spoon, then roll the mixture in the hands to
form balls about the size of a nutmeg. Lay them on a paper
at least an inch apart, and bake in a slow oven (250°-300° F.)
until light brown.

Coconut —

1 egg-white J/^ cup condensed milk

1J4 cups moist coconut J4 teaspoon vanilla

Beat the egg-white until stiff, then fold it into the mixture
of coconut and condensed milk. Add flavoring. Drop by
spoonfuls on a greased baking-sheet and shape into cakes. Bake
in a slow oven (250°-300° F.) until lightly browned.

Brown Sugar —

1 egg-white 1 cup chopped salted nuts 1 cup brown sugar

Beat the sugar into the stiffly beaten egg-white, and add the
nuts. Drop by spoonfuls on a greased pan and bake in a slow
oven (250°-300° F.).

Nut Oatmeal —

1 Q^^ Yi cup chopped walnuts

Yz cup sugar Ya teaspoon salt

Y4 teaspoon vanilla " 2 teaspoons melted shortening

% cup rolled oats

Beat Qgg until very light, add sugar slowly, beating con-
stantly. Add flavoring, oats, salt, nuts and melted shortening.

COOKIES, DOUGHNUTS, ETC. 501

Drop from teaspoon on greased baking-sheet and bake in a slow
oven (350° F.) until browned (about 10 minutes). Remove
from pan while warm. This makes about eighteen macaroons.

LACE CAKES

2 eggs 1 tablespoon butter or other

shortening
Y2 teaspoon vanilla

54 cup brown sugar shortening

1 cup rolled oats Y2 teaspoon ^

J4 teaspoon salt

Beat the eggs, add the sugar and, when these are well mixed,
add the oats and salt. Melt the shortening and stir into the
mixture. Add vanilla. Drop by spoonfuls on a greased bak-
ing-sheet and spread very thin with the back of the spoon.
Bake in a moderate oven (350° -4 00° F.) ten to twelve min-
utes.

BUTTERSCOTCH STICKS

% cup butter 1 cup sifted flour

1 cup brown sugar ^ teaspoon salt

1 Q%% 1 teaspoon baking-powder

Yot cup broken pecan meats 1 teaspoon vanilla

Melt butter in a saucepan, add sugar and when well blended
remove from the fire and cool, in the saucepan, until luke-
warm. Add unbeaten ^^^ to mixture and beat well. Mix
flour, salt and baking-powder, and add to the sugar mixture;
then add the nut meats and vanilla. Spread the mixture in a
shallow pan lined with plain paper which has been greased.
Bake 30 minutes in a hot oven (400°-450° F.). While hot,
cut into strips an inch wide and four inches long. This recipe
makes about two dozen.

BRAN COCONUT DROPS

1 cup cooking bran 2 egg-whites

Yz cup coconut Y2 teaspoon almond extract

Ya cup sugar

Beat the egg-whites, and add the other ingredients. Drop
from a teaspoon on a greased baking-sheet. Bake in a mod-
erate oven (400° F.) until browned.

CANDIES

"VVTHEN sugar and a liquid are boiled together, a sirup is
VV formed which grows thicker as the boiling continues.
The thickness of the sirup determines the general type of candy-
that will result.

Testing the Sirup

The simplest and most accurate method of determining
whether the sirup is thick enough for your purpose is to measure
its temperature, because the temperature rises steadily as the
sirup thickens.

A Candy Thermometer registering up to 3 50° F. is not
expensive, and it will not only give you a higher average of
success in candy making but will save you the time and labor
that must otherwise be given to testing the sirup. A table
giving the various stages of sugar cookery will be found on
page 12.

If You Are Not Provided With a Thermometer, the
following test will help you to determine when to take your
candy from the fire.

Drop a little sirup into ice-cold water and pinch it between
the thumb and finger:

Soft ball stage (for fondant and fudge) the sirup forms a
soft ball which loses its shape immediately when removed from
the water.

Stif ball stage (for caramels and nougat) the sirup forms a
stiflf ball which retains its shape for a second or two when
removed from the water and then flattens out.

Hard ball stage (for molasses taffy and soft candies to be
pulled) the sirup forms a hard ball which will roll about on a
cold buttered plate when removed from the water.

Light to medium crack stage (for toffee and butterscotch and
hard candies to be pulled) the sirup forms spirals or threads
which are brittle under water but which soften when removed
from the water and stick to the teeth when chewed.

Hard crack stage (for clear brittle candies) the sirup forms
spirals or threads which are brittle when removed from the
water and do not stick to the teeth when chewed.

502

CANDIES 503

Creamy Candies — Creaminess is desirable in soft candies.
**Creamy" means that the texture should be very smooth, not
grainy at all; soft but not sticky. This means that the sugar
must not remain as a sirup, but must crystallize. The crystals,
however, must be very fine, so that they can not be felt by
the fingers or in the mouth.

Creamy candy should not be overcooked. If it reaches too
high a temperature, accidentally, a little water may be added
and it may be recooked to the correct temperature. This does
not give as good a result as one cooking to the correct tempera-
ture, but it improves a poor product.

Creamy candy should be cooled before it is beaten. Beating
candy while it is hot causes large crystals to form and grainy
candy results. If crystals that form on the side of the pan in
which candy is cooked fall back into the candy, they tend to
cause large crystals to form and to make grainy candy.

A small amount of corn sirup tends to prevent grainy candy.
Creamy candies made with corn sirup will require longer beat-
ing before crystallization takes place than will candies made
from all granulated sugar. They also soften more quickly on
standing. If too much sirup is. used, the candy will not crystal-
lize at all and the best thing to do with it is to boil it until it
reaches the proper stage for a pulled or brittle candy.

One-eighth teaspoon of cream of tartar or one-half teaspoon
of lemon- juice or acetic acid to two cups of sugar may be used
instead of corn sirup or glucose. They change part of the gran-
ulated sugar to glucose during the cooking process.

Ingredients Used in Candies

Sugars — Granulated, confectioners', brown and maple sugar,
corn sirup, molasses, honey and maple and cane sirups are all
used in candy, according to the flavor and texture desired. The
light-brown sugar should be chosen rather than the darker
brown, for a candy of delicate flavor. The same thing is true if
corn sirup or molasses is used; the lighter color gives the less
strong flavor.

Brown sugar and molasses contain an acid, which if used in
candies with milk causes the milk to curdle. Therefore, candy
containing these two ingredients should be stirred while it is
cooking. Crystallization does not readily occur here because
the milk tends to prevent it.

504

Other Ingredients — ^Nuts of all sorts, chocolate or cocoa,
butter, milk, cream, egg-whites and fruits such as dates, figs,
raisins and candied cherries, give special flavor or texture.

Butter is often used because of its flavor and because it tends
to make a creamy product. Other mild-flavored fats may-
be used instead of butter, particularly in candies containing
chocolate, brown sugar or molasses.

Chocolate contributes flavor and tends to make a smooth
candy because of the fat it contains. Three tablespoons of cocoa
and two-thirds of a tablespoon of butter may be used instead
of one square of chocolate.

Fresh milk, dried milk or canned milk, sweetened or un-
sweetened, may be used in candies.

CHOCOLATE FUDGE

2 cups sugar 34 cup milk

1 or 2 squares chocolate 1 teaspoon vanilla
Ys teaspoon cream of tartar 2 tablespoons butter

or 2 tablespoons corn sirup

Mix the sugar, milk, grated chocolate, cream of tartar or corn
sirup and boil rather slowly, stirring until the ingredients are
well blended. Boil to the soft-ball stage (238° F.). Remove
from the stove, add the butter, but do not stir it in. "When
lukewarm, add the vanilla and beat until it creams; that is,
until the shiny appearance disappears and the fudge will hold
its shape when dropped from the spoon. Spread it in a buttered
pan and when it hardens mark it into squares.

MARSHMALLOW FUDGE

To the recipe for chocolate fudge add three tablespoons of
marshmallow cream just after taking it from the fire. Beat
well and pour into buttered pans.

MAPLE FUDGE

2 54 cups maple sugar Yz cup boiling water

1 cup cream or milk 1 cup broken nut-meats

Break the maple sugar into small pieces and heat it in a
saucepan with the water. When it is dissolved, add the milk.
Boil to the soft-ball stage (238° F.). Remove from the fire

CANDIES 505

and cool. Wlien it is lukewarm, beat until it creams and add
the nut-meats. Spread it in a buttered pan and when it hardens
mark it into squares.

DIVINITY FUDGE

2 cups sugar 2 egg-whites

Yz cup corn sirup % cup blanched almonds

Yz cup water 1 tablespoon almond or
y^ cup candied cherries lemon extract

Put the sugar, water and corn sirup into a saucepan. Stir
it while it dissolves over the fire, then let it boil without stirring
to the light crack stage (265 ° F.) . While it is cooking, beat the
whites of eggs stiffly and when the sirup is ready pour it over
them, beating constantly. Beat until creamy, add nuts, cherries
and extract, and pour into buttered tins.

MAPLE DIVINITY FUDGE

Follow preceding recipe, using in addition one-half cup
maple sirup.

OTHER VARIATIONS OF FUDGE

Brown sugar may be used partly or entirely in place of white
or maple sugar. If brown sugar is used, the cream of tartar or
corn sirup should be omitted.

Condensed milk may be used instead of fresh milk. It should
have water added according to the directions on the can.

Peanut butter may be used instead of chocolate, using two
tablespoons of the butter to each cup of sugar in the recipe.
Like butter or other fat it should be added after the fudge is
cooked.

Marshmallows or marshmallow cream may be added to any
fudge after it has been taken from the fire. One cup of marsh-
mallow to two cups of sugar is a good proportion.

Any kind of broken nuts, including coconut, may be added
to the fudge just before it is turned into the pan.

Candied cherries, or other fruits, chopped candied orange-
peel or citron may be added. Dates and raisins are often used.

Flavoring may be varied to suit. Orange extract is good with

5o6

brown sugar, chocolate or molasses. Lemon extract or lemon-
juice is good in a white-sugar fudge from which the chocolate is
omitted.

FUDGE-COVERED DATES

Cut dates in half, lengthwise; remove the pits and lay the
halves at intervals on a greased dish. Make fudge according to
any fudge recipe and drop a teaspoonf ul on each half date. This
must be done quickly, to avoid letting the fudge harden in the
pan. The hardening may be delayed by standing the pan in a
larger one containing hot water.

PANOCHA

3 cups brown sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup milk 1 cup nut-meats

2 tablespoons butter

Put the sugar and milk into a saucepan and cook to the soft-
ball stage, or 238° F. Remove from the fire, add butter and
vanilla, and cool without stirring. When it is lukewarm, beat
until it is creamy. Stir in the broken nut-meats. Hickory
nuts, walnuts or pecans are especially nice. Pour into a buttered
pan and when it hardens mark into squares.

MAPLE PRALINES

2 cups sugar 1 cup maple sirup

Yi cup milk 2 cups pecan-meats

Boil the sugar, milk and maple sirup until the mixture
reaches the soft-ball stage (238° F.). Remove from the fire
and cool. When it is lukewarm, beat until it is smooth and
creamy. Add any kind of broken nut-meats and drop on
buttered paper from the tip of a spoon, making little mounds.

FONDANT

2 cups granulated sugar 2 tablespoons corn sirup or

1 cup water y^ teaspoon cream of tartar

1 teaspoon vanilla

Put the sugar, corn sirup and water in a saucepan and heat
slowly. Do not let it begin to boil until the sugar is dissolved.
Wash down the sides of the pan with a fork wrapped in a damp

CANDIES 507

cloth or else cover and cook for two or three minutes so that
the steam will carry down the crystals that have been thrown
on the side of the pan. Remove the cover and continue to boil
slowly without stirring to the soft-ball stage (238° F.). While
cooking, keep the cover on part of the time so the steam can
help to keep the crystals washed down.

Remove from the fire and pour at once on large platters or
slabs which have been dipped into cold water, and let it stand
until it is lukewarm. Stir with a spatula or a fork till it is
creamy; then knead with the hands until it is smooth and free
from lumps.

Fondant is better if allowed to ripen for several days before
being used. It may be wrapped in waxed paper and put into a
tightly covered jar. When it is to be used for centers of dipped
bonbons the centers should be shaped by hand or in molds and
allowed to stand in the air until the surface loses all stickiness.
Then the shapes may be dipped into the coating.

HONEY FONDANT

2 cups granulated sugar ^ cup honey 1 cup water

Proceed as for plain fondant.

CANDIES MADE FROM FONDANT

Tutti-Frutti — Knead fondant and flavor with cherry or
almond extract. Knead into it one-third its amount of a mix-
ture of raisins, dates, figs, candied cherries, citron, orange-peel
or other candied fruits, which ha^e been chopped together.
Shape into a flat cake and cut after it stands for an hour.

WiNTERGREEN Creams — Melt a portion of fondant in the
upper part of a double boiler until it is soft enough to drop
from a spoon. It may be necessary to add a few drops of hot
water. Color it with red vegetable coloring to a delicate pink.
Flavor with oil of wintergreen. Stir until it is creamy. Drop
from a teaspoon on oiled paper.

Peppermint Creams — ^Follow instructions given for winter-
green creams, but leave the fondant uncolored and flavor with
oil of peppermint.

Nut Creams — ^Knead fondant and flavor with almond or
coffee extract. Knead into it a mixture of chopped nuts or

5o8

moist coconut. Shape into balls, squares or other shapes attrac-
tive for dipping into chocolate.

Stuffed Dates, and Prunes — Stone dates or prunes and
stuflf them with fondant which has been colored pink and
flavored with rose water. A whole nut-meat should be inserted
with the fondant.

Chocolate Bonbons — ^Melt very slowly a good quality o£
specially prepared dipping chocolate, sweetened or unsweetened,
in the top of a double boiler. Do not heat the water under the
chocolate above 120° F., for overheating spoils chocolate for
dipping. Stir it constantly while it is melting to keep an even
temperature, and after it has melted, beat it thoroughly. Keep
the heat very low during the dipping process. To dip centers,
use a fork or confectioner's dipper. Drop centers in one at a
time and when covered place on oiled paper. The room in
which dipping is done should be cool, so that the chocolate may
harden quickly.

MARSHMALLOWS

2 tablespoons gelatin ^ teaspoon salt

Yx cup cold water 1 teaspoon vanilla

% cup boiling water Confectioners' sugar
2 cups sugar

Soak the gelatin in the cold water until it has taken up all the
water. Boil the sugar and water to the soft- ball stage (238°
F.). Add vanilla and salt to gelatin. Pour the sirup slowly
over the gelatin, beating constantly with a whisk until cool and
thick. Butter a shallow pan slightly and dust with confection-
ers' sugar. Turn the marshmallow mixture into the pan and
smooth the top evenly. Dust with confectioners' sugar. Let it
stand over night. In the morning cut it into small squares and
roll in confectioners' sugar.

VARIATIONS FOR MARSHMALLOWS

Chopped nuts, dates, figs, raisins or candied cherries may be
added to the recipe for marshmallows. Plain marshmallows
may be rolled in coconut before being rolled in sugar, or they
may be dipped in melted chocolate. Marshmallows may be
tinted any desired color.

CANDIES 509

VANn.i.A- CARAMELS

2 cups sugar 4 tablespoons butter

Yz cup corn sirup 1 cup cream or condensed

Yz cup milk milk

1 teaspoon vanilla

Cook the ingredients, except the vanilkj to the stiff-ball
stage, or 246° F. Remove from the fire, add the vanilla and
pour into a buttered pan. When it is cold, turn it out of the
pan and cut it into squares.

Chocolate — ^Use the same ingredients as for vanilla cara-
mels but reduce the cream or condensed milk to one-half cup
and add three squares of chocolate. Break the chocolate in
small pieces, add to the other ingredients and proceed as for
vanilla caramels.

MOLASSES TAFFY

2 cups molasses 4 tablespoons butter or other

1 cup granulated sugar fat

Yx cup water J4 teaspoon vanilla

Y^ teaspoon soda

Cook the molasses, sugar and water slowly to the hard-ball
stage (260° F.) stirring during the latter part of the cooking
to prevent its burning. Remove from the fire, add the fat,
soda and vanilla and stir enough to mix. Pour into a greased
pan and, when cool enough to handle, pull it until it becomes
light in color. Stretch it into a long rope and cut with scissors
into small pieces.

WHITE TAFFY

2 cups granulated sugar 2Y2 tablespoons vinegar

Y2 cup water 1 teaspoon lemon or vanilla

1 teaspoon glycerin extraa

Boil the sugar, water, glycerin and vinegar to the hard-ball
stage (260° F.). Add flavoring. Pour on to a greased platter.
When cool enough to handle, pull until very white, stretch into
a long rope, and cut into short pieces.

510

NOUGAT

2 cups sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla

Yi cup corn sirup 1 Yi cups nut-meats

1 cup water Y2 cup candied cherries
4 egg-whites

Boil together half of the sugar, half of the water and half of
the corn sirup to the stiff-ball stage (246° -2 50° F.). Remove
the sirup from the fire and pour it slowly over the well-beaten
whites and continue beating until it is cool. While beating,
cook the remaining half of the ingredients to the stiflF-ball stage.
Remove and add at once to the first mixture, beating while
adding. When cool, add the vanilla, nut-meats and candied
cherries and pour into buttered pans. Smooth over the surface
and let it stand over night before cutting. In the morning cut
and wrap in waxed paper.

BUTTERSCOTCH

1 cup granulated sugar Yi cup butter

1 cup brown sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla or lemon

Ya cup light corn sirup extract

1 cup water

Put sugar, sirup and water into a saucepan and set over
direct heat. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, then cook without
stirring to the stiff ball stage (250° F.). Add fat and cook to
the medium crack stage (280° F.), for soft butterscotch, or to
the hard crack stage (300° F.) for brittle candy. Remove from
fire, add the flavoring and pour on a greased slab. Mark while
still warm and when cold break into pieces.

MAPLE SCOTCH

1 cup maple sugar 1 teaspoon vinegar

Y2 cup water 4 tablespoons butter

Boil together the maple sugar, water and vinegar to the stiff-
ball stage (246° F.). Then add the butter and cook to the
medium-crack stage (280° F.). Turn into a well-buttered
pan. Mark while still warm, and when cold break into pieces.

CANDIES 511

No. 1. POP-CORN BALLS

3 quarts popped corn 1 cup water

1 cup sugar ^ teaspoon salt

y^ cup white corn sirup 1 teaspoon lemon or vanilla

Discard all imperfect kernels and put the popped corn into
a large pan. Cook sugar, sirup and water to the medium-crack
stage (280° F.). Add flavoring and salt. Pour over the
corn, stirring with a spoon so that all kernels will be evenly-
coated. Shape the corn into balls, lay on waxed paper, and wrap
in waxed paper.

No. 2.

3 quarts popped corn
1 cup honey

% cup water

2 tablespoons butter

1 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

Proceed as for No. 1.

MAPLE NUT BRITTLE

1 cup light-brown sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup* maple sugar 1 cup broken nut-meats
Yz cup water 2 tablespoons butter

1/4 teaspoon salt

Boil the sugar and water to the stiff -ball stage (246° F.).
Then add the fat and cook to the brittle stage (290°-300° F.).
Add the vanilla and salt and, pour over the nut-meats, which
have been placed on a buttered pan. When cold, break into
pieces,

PEANUT BRITTLE

2 cups granulated sugar 1 teaspoon salt
1 pint chopped peanuts

Put the sugar into an iron f rymg-pan and heat slowly, stirring
constantly, until the sugar is melted and turns a light brown
color (slightly above 300° F.). Spread the chopped peanuts
in a buttered tin, sprinkle them with the salt, warm the tin
slightly and pour the melted sugar over the peanuts.

512

TURKISH DELIGHT

3 tablespoons gelatin Yz cup hot water

2 cups sugar Grated rind and juice of
Yz cup cold water 1 lemon

Grated rind and juice of Red or green coloring
1 orange

Soak the gelatin in the cold water. Put the sugar and hot
w^ter in a saucepan. When it reaches the boiling-point, add
the gelatin and simmer twenty minutes. Add color and the
flavorings; strain into a bread-pan which has been rinsed with
cold water. The mixture should be from one-half to one inch
in depth.

When it is cold, turn it on to a board. Cut into cubes or
other shapes and roll in confectioners' sugar.

If you prefer other flavors, such as peppermint, wintergreen
and clove, omit the fruit juice and rind, add one-half cup af
water, and flavor with a few drops of oil of peppermint, oil
of wintergreen, oil of cloves, etc.

COCONUT CONES

2 cups sugar 3 egg-whites

34 cup water 2 cups moist coconut

Yz teaspoon vanilla

Boil the sugar and water together to the soft-ball stage (238°
F.). Add the vanifla and pour it slowly over the stiffly beaten
whites of the eggs beating constantly until light and foamy.
Stir in the coconut and drop on buttered tins by teaspoonfuls.
Shape each confection like a cone. Bake in a slow oven (300°
F.) for about twenty minutes.

MARZIPAN

2 egg-whites 1 cup confectioners' sugar,

1 cup almond paste more or less

1 cup almond paste

Yz teaspoon lemon or vanilla

Beat the egg-whites and mix with the almond paste. Add
the flavoring and enough sugar to make the mixture stiff enough
to handle. After it has stood over night, it may be molded into
small shapes of fruits or vegetables such as pears, apples or car-
rots and colored with vegetable colors, or it may be cut into

CANDIES 513

small pieces and dipped in chocolate or other coating, or used
as the center for candied cherries, dates, prunes, etc.

The almond paste may be bought at a confectioner's, or the
almonds may be blanched and pounded. Two and two-thirds
cups shelled almonds make one cup of paste.

STUFFED SPICED PRUNES

Yz pound prunes 54 teaspoon grated nutmeg

J/2 cup sugar ^ teaspoon cinnamon

y% cup corn sirup 5 allspice berries

^ cup water ^ teaspoon maple flavoring

3 to 6 cloves Chopped nut-meats

Soak the prunes over night, after washing them thoroughly.
Drain off the water; add the sugar, sirup, water and spices and
simmer slowly until the sirup is all absorbed by the prunes.
Cut a slit along one side of each prune, slip out the stone and
fill the cavities with chopped nut-meats moistened with a little
sirup or with cream. Roll in confectioners' sugar.

TUTTI-FRUTTI CANDY

1 pound raisins 1 pound figs

Ya pound walnut-meats Yi pound prunes

1 pound dates Confectioners' sugar

Soak the prunes over night. Steam until they are soft and
remove stones. Wash the figs, and steam them twenty min-
utes. Wash the dates and remove the stones. Put the fruit
and nuts through a food-chopper. Put confectioners' sugar on
the board and with the hands work the fruit and nuts until
well blended. Roll to about one-quarter inch thick, using the
sugar to dredge the board and rolling-pin. Cut in any desired
shape, roll in sugar, pack in layers in a tin box, using waxed
paper between the layers.

HOLIDAY COCONUT BALLS

54 cup corn sirup % cup currants

54 teaspoon maple Yz cup raisins

flavoring 1 cup moist coconut

Stir the ingredients together to make a stiff loaf. Pack in a
small cake-tin. Chill in the refrigerator and roll into small
balls. Dust with confectioners' sugar.

514

SALTED ALMONDS OR PEANUTS

Blanch the almonds or remove the thin brown skin from the
peanuts. Dry the almonds well. Put a small amount of oil
into a dripping pan, pour in the nuts and stir them until they
are well coated. There should be no excess oil in the pan; just
enough to give an oily surface to each nut. Set the pan in the
oven, and stir the nuts often until they become light brown.
Drain them in a colander, spread on a platter and sprinkle with
salt.

To Blanch Almonds — Shell the nuts and pour boiling
water over them. Let them stand from two to five minutes,
until the brown skin can be slipped off with the fingers. Pour
off the water and remove the skins.

GLACE FRUITS OR NUTS

2 cups sugar Small fruits or sections of

1 cup water larger fruits or whole nut-
34 cup light corn sirup meats

Make a sirup of the sugar, water and corn sirup. Boil, with-
out stirring, to the hard crack stage (300° F.). Remove the
saucepan from the fire and put it into an outer pan of boiling
water to keep the sirup from hardening. Drop in the well
drained fruit or the nut-meats, a few at a time. Skim out and
place on heavy waxed paper to dry.

CANDIED FRUITS

Sirup for Candied Fruits —

2 cups sugar ^ cup light corn sirup
1 cup water

Boil together until the sirup spins a thread when dropped
from the spoon (234° F.).

Candied Pears, Peaches, Plums, and Cherries — Pare,
core, slice or otherwise prepare the fruits to be candied. Have
them drained clear of all juice and add them to the boiling
sirup, being careful not to have them crowded. Simmer until
the fruits are clear. Skim from the sirup, drain, spread on a

CANDIES 515

screen and allow them to dry until they are no longer sticky.
Pack between sheets of waxed paper and place in a tin box or
a glass jar.

Candied Quinces, Pineapples and Figs — Prepare fruits by
washing, paring or slicing as desired, then simmer in clear water
until tender. Drain and use the water in which the fruits
were cooked to make the sirup. Proceed as in the preceding
recipe.

Candied Orange, Lemon or Grapefruit Peel— Cut the
peel into halves or quarters. Let them stand over night in salted
water (one tablespoon salt to one quart water). Drain and
wash thoroughly. Simmer in clear water, changing the water
several times until it has no bitter taste. When the peel is
tender, drain, cut into strips or add whole to the sirup and sim-
mer until it is transparent. Drain, roll in granulated sugar, and
allow the peel to dry well before packing.

FRUIT PASTE CANDIES

Fruit Paste — Paste may be made from most kinds of fruit-
pulp after the juice has been drained off for jelly, or it may be
made from fresh or canned fruit. A combination of the pulp
of two or more kinds of fruit gives a delicious result.

Press the pulp through a rather fine strainer, measure it and
to one pint of pulp add one and one-third cups of sugar. Cook
this mixture, stirring it and taking care not to let it scorch.
When the paste is thick and clear, turn it out on a platter which
has been brushed with unsalted fat. Let it stand and dry until
a film forms over the top. Then turn it on to a wire screen
and dry until it loses its stickiness. To get the best results, dry
it as quickly as possible in the open air. Roll the dried paste in
thick paraflfin paper and pack it in tin boxes or glass jars for
future use. For finish, dip in fondant or chocolate,

SPUN SUGAR

2 cups sugar 1 cup water

I/3 teaspoon cream of tartar

Dissolve sugar in water, bring slowly to boiling point and

5il

boil to 280° F. Add cream of tartar and continue boiling with-
out stirring until the sirup reaches 310° F. In the mean-
time, have prepared 2 oiled wooden spoon handles securely
anchored in kitchen-cabinet drawers, with a clean paper spread
on the floor below. When the sirup reaches 310° F. remove
quickly to a pan of cold water to stop the boiling, then to pan
of hot water. Tint with food colors if desired. Dip the spinner
(a spoon, large knife or egg whip will serve) into the sirup and
swing back and forth over the handles. The sugar falls in
long threads. If the sirup thickens as you work, heat the water
in the lower pan until the sirup melts and continue spinning.
Use at once as decorative nests for ice cream, meringue glace.
Baked Alaska or Easter eggs.

PULLED SUGAR

2 pounds loaf sugar 1 teaspoon glucose

1 cup water 54 teaspoon cream of tartar

Add water to sugar in a saucepan and when completely dis-
solved turn on heat, add glucose and cream of tartar and boil
as quickly as possible to 312° F. Remove at once to pan of
cold water to stop boiling, then pour sirup onto a lightly oiled
slab. If diflFerent colors or flavors are wanted, divide the sirup
as desired. As edges cool, lift with knife and turn in to the
center. When sugar is cool enough to handle, pull from sides,
turning in to the center, and roll into a ball. Work in a warm
place so sugar does not cool too quickly as you work and be
sure that all parts are pulled equally. When it becomes quite
satin-white and china-like in appearance, start your design.
Ribbons are made by pulling a straight piece, cutting the edges
quickly and then arranging in knots or bows. Set aside to cool
slowly so they will not crack.

For flowers and leaves, pull a small end into petal shape, pinch
off the end, work the edges thin and curve into desired shape.
Put the petals together as you work to form the flower, then
pinch the lower ends together and attach to a new tin wire, or
attach to a green pulled-sugar stem. Detached leaves may be
mounted on wire and left uncovered.

FRUIT DESSERTS

Fresh Fruits

■pRESH fruits are the simplest and easiest of all desserts to pre-
-*- pare, and furnish one of the most wholesome sweets. They
are at their best when served ripe and in season. When fruit
comes from the market it should be looked over and kept in a
cooi place. All fruit should be washed before it is served.

FRESH BERRIES

Turn the berries out of the container and spread them on a
platter or board so that they are not piled up on one another.
If there are any noticeably soft or moldy, remove them and
set the rest in the refrigerator or other cool place until they
are to be prepared for serving. Then pi.ck them over carefully,
wash and drain. Strawberries are usually hulled, but when
very large and perfect they may be served with the hulls on and
dipped into powdered sugar when they are eaten.

MELONS

All melons should be served very cold. They may be laid
on chopped ice when served but the ice should never be placed
in or on the edible parts of the melon.

Cantaloup — Cut the cantaloup in half and with a spoon
remove the seeds without injuring the flesh. Each half may be
served alone or it may be filled with fresh berries or other fruit
or with ice-cream. When used as an appetizer at the beginning
of a meal, a quarter of a large cantaloup is enough. Chilled
melon balls are often served.

HoNEYPEW AND Casaba Melons — ^These are usually cut
lengthwise and served in sections two or three inches wide.

Watermelon — To serve a whole watermelon at the table,
cut it in half, crosswise, and cut a slice from each end to make
it stand on a platter. Garnish the platter with green leaves.

The melon may be served in round slices, or in half or quarter
slices from which the rind may or may not have been removed;
the pulp may be shaped in badls or dice and served in glasses^

517

Si8

or it may be scooped out in large spoonfuls and served in a
watermelon tub shaped from the rind.

For other suggestions for serving melons, see Index.

GRAPEFRUIT

See Index.

ORANGES

Cut oranges in half crosswise. With a sharp knife, loosen
the pulp from the center and from the dividing fiber. Serve
two halves to each person.

An attractive dessert is made by cutting oranges crosswise in
quarter-inch slices and laying the slices in an overlapping row
on a glass plate, allowing about four slices to each person. The
slices may be sprinkled with sugar and moist coconut or served
plain.

ICED ORANGE JUICE

Fill small glass cups with strained orange-juice and set each
in the center of a plate filled with cracked ice. This makes a
delicious and beautiful fruit course for breakfast.

STUFFED PEACHES

Pare large peaches and cut a slice from the top of each. Re-
move the pits without breaking the fruit and fill the hollow
with nuts or with any chopped fruit, such as apples, citron or
raisins. Sprinkle with sugar and a little cinnamon or nutmeg.
Pour custard over the peaches and bake. Or serve cold soft
custard with the uncooked chilled fruit.

SLICED BANANAS
Chill and slice well ripened bananas, serve with cream or
lemon-juice and sugar.

No. 1. FRESH FRUIT CUP

Yz pineapple 3 oranges

1 cup strawberries 2 tablespoons lemon- juice

3 well ripened bananas Sugar

Peel and dice the pineapple, bananas and oranges. Wash and
hull the strawberries. Mix all together, with the lemon-juice
and sugar, and set in the refrigerator until very cold.

FRUIT DESSERTS 519

No. 2 — Peel and slice oranges and arrange in a glass dish al-
ternate layers of oranges and sugar until all the fruit is used.
Whip some sweet cream very stiff, sweeten and flavor it and
spread it over the oranges. Serve very cold.

Crushed pineapple and sliced bananas may be added, if de-
sired.

No. 3.

3 oranges 3 well ripened bananas

1 cup diced pineapple 1 cup moist coconut

With a sharp knife cut the orange and pineapple into thick
slices, then cut them into bits free from seeds and membrane.
Slice the bananas thin. Arrange alternate layers of the different
fruits in a deep dish and sprinkle each layer with sugar and
coconut. Over the whole pour any fruit- juice. Serve very
cold.

MACEDOINE OF FRUIT

3 peaches Yz cup diced watermelon

3 pears 1 cup raspberries
Yz cup diced pineapple ^ cup sugar

Pare and slice peaches and pears, cut pineapple and melon in
small pieces, mix fruit and sugar, and chill for one hour. Serve
in glasses, adding one tablespoon whipped cream to each glass
just before serving. A berry or piece of pineapple placed on
the cream gives color to the dish.

VERMONT QUARTERED APPLES

6 firm, tart apples 3 tablespoons butter

4 tablespoons shaved maple 1 cup boiling water
sugar

Pare, quarter and core the apples, and place on an earthen-
ware pie-plate. Mix the maple sugar, butter and boiling water
and boil for five minutes. Pour this sauce over the apples, place
in a moderate oven (3 50°-375° F.) and bake until the apples
are soft. Baste occasionally with the hot sirup. This makes a
delicious dessert served with cream. It may also be served in
the baking-dish with duck or goose.

520

APPLE SAUCE

No. 1: — ^Wash, pare, quarter and core sour, juicy apples.
Place them in a porcelain kettle with just enough water to keep
them from burning and boil until tender. Add sugar to taste
and boil a few minutes longer. Serve hot or cold.

A few whole cloves or a dash of cinnamon or nutmeg or a
little lemon- juice or a few seedless raisins may be cooked with
the apples. Brown or maple sugar may be used instead of
white.

No. 2 — Prepare as for No. 1 but place in a baking dish with
|ust enough water to start them cooking. SprinMe with sugar.
Cover and bake in a moderate oven (350°-375° F.) until the
apples are soft but not broken. Add more sugar and a little
boiling water if necessary, and cook, uncovered, until the top
is slightly browned.

No. 3 — ^Wash, quarter and core but do not pare apples. Cut
out any bad spots. Stew until tender with just enough water
to keep them from sticking to the pan. Rub through a colander
or coarse strainer, add sugar to taste, and stir until the sugar
is dissolved.

APPLE OR OTHER FRUIT SNOW

% cup sour apple pulp Lemon-juice

Sugar 3 egg-whites

Pare, quarter and steam enough apples to make the required
amount of apple pulp. Press through a sieve. Add sugar and
lemon-juice to taste and fold into stifily beaten whites very
gradually. Pile on a glass dish, chill and serve with custard
sauce or cream.

Other fruits may be used in the same way. Uncooked fruit
pulp may be used by grating fresh fruit and covering it at once
with lemon-juice to prevent discoloration.

BLUSHING APPLES

6 red apples IJ/2 cups water

IJ/2 cups sugar Juice of 1 lemon

Juice and grated rind of Whipped cream
1 orange

Wash and core the apples. Cook until they are tender In
sirup made of the sugar and water, turning so that they will

FRUIT DESSERTS 5^1

cook evenly. Carefully remove the skin, scraping the red pulp
from it and pasting it back on the sides of the apple. Put the
apples in a serving dish. Boil the sirup down to one cup and
add the grated rind and the juice of one orange, the juice of
one lemon, and, if desired, nuts, candied orange peel or raisins.
Pour sirup over the apples and serve with whipped cream.

JELLIED APPLES

Pare and core the required number of apples and bake, steam
or boil in sirup until tender. Cool. Cover the bottoms of indi-
vidual molds with lemon jelly, put in apples and cover with
jelly. Unmold and serve with meringue or whipped cream.

BAKED APPLES

Select sound apples; core them and place from one teaspoon
to one tablespoon of sugar in each cavity. Place the apples in
a baking-dish, add water to cover the bottom of the dish, and
bake in a moderate oven (350°-375° F.) until tender.

Sour apples cook more quickly than sweet ones, and summer
or fall apples take less time to cook than winter apples.

Baked apples may be varied by filling the centers with brown
sugar and raisins, sections of bananas, red cinnamon candies,
marshmallow, marmalade or jelly, honey or corn sirup and
lemon-juice, nuts, candied orange-peel, candied pineapple, pre-
served ginger, canned or fresh berries, peaches and other fruits
or left-over fruit-juice. Meringues, custard sauce, whipped
. cream or marshmallow sauce may be used as garnish.
I

BAKED STUFFED APPLES

6 large tart red apples 1 teaspoon cinnamon

1 cup chopped bananas Chopped nut-meats

1 cup chopped cranberries Whipped cream
1 cup sugar

f- Cut off the stem end of the apples, but do not peel them.
Remove all the core and part of the pulp^ leaving the walls of
the cup about three-fourths inch thick. Mix bananas, cran-
berries, sugar, and cinnamon. Fill the cavities in the apples
with this mixture, cover with chopped nut-meats, and bake in
the oven (350°-375° F.) until tender. Serve cold with a spoon-
ful of whipped cream on top of each apple.

522

STEAMED APPLES

Core the apples, fill cavities with sugar and put in a saucepan
with hot water about an inch deep. Cover and cook slowly,
turning the apples over once. This will steam the apples and,
if they are red, will preserve their color. These resemble baked
apples and the same variations may be used.

BAKED STUFFED PEARS

Pare and core large pears and stuff with seeded dates, raisins
or chopped nuts with some tart marmalade or shredded coconut.
Place close together in a baking-dish, cover bottom of pan
with water and bake slowly until tender.

MERINGUED PEARS

6 large pears Candied ginger

6 tablespoons sugar 3 egg-whites

Grated lemon-rind 54 cup powdered sugar

Pare and core the pears, place them in a baking-dish and fill
the center of each with one tablespoon sugar and a little grated
lemon-rind or candied ginger. Add three or four tablespoons
of water and bake until tender. Cover them with a meringue
made with the stiffly beaten egg-whites and the sugar. Brown
quickly.

STEWED RHUBARB

Wash, but do not peel, the rhubarb and cut it in one-inch
pieces. Add one-half as much sugar as rhubarb, put in a sauce-
pan with just enough water to keep the fruit from burning.
Very little water is needed, as rhubarb provides its own moist-
ure. Cook rapidly until tender.

BAKED RHUBARB

Prepare as for stewing, using same proportion of sugar and
rhubarb, and bake in a moderate oven (350° -3 75° F.). Bake
until the rhubarb is reduced to a soft, red pulp.

Dried Fruits

If prepared carefully, most dried fruits retain their flavor.
Except for some of the vitamins, none of the food values of

FRUIT DESSERTS

523

the product are lost in drying, for this method of preservation
only drives off the moisture of perishable foods through evapora-
tion. The modern method of drying fruit makes it unnecessary
to soak the present day product. Dried fruits are edible as they
come from the package, or may be plumped slightly by immers-
ing in hot water.

Quick cooking without soaking saves the sugar of the fruit,
allows a firmer texture and improves the flavor. Rinse the
fruit, cover generously with water and boil briskly until very
tender. Apples and apricots require 40 minutes, figs 20-30,
peaches 50, pears 40, prunes 45-50 and raisins 10. Add sugar
to taste during the last 5 minutes of cooking to all fruit except
figs which must be cooked with sugar for at least 15 minutes.

Stick cinnamon, cloves or lemon juice may be added for flavor
variety.

There are endless ways in which dried fruit may be used for
garnishes, salads, cakes, cookies, breads and desserts.

APRICOT OR PRUNE WHIP

1 5/2 cups sweetened apricot Yg teaspoon salt

or prune pulp ^ cup sugar

1 Yz tablespoons lemon juice 3 egg whites, stiffly beaten

Mix pulp, lemon juice and salt together. Beat sugar into egg
whites, fold in fruit mixture and serve garnished with chopped
nuts. If desired this mixture may be piled lightly into a buttered
baking dish and baked in a slow oven (275° F.) 30 to 45
minutes.

STEAMED FIGS

18 pulled figs

3 teaspoons confectioners'

2 tablespoons water

sugar

1 orange

% cup cream

Wash the figs and cut out the stem end. Soak several hours,
or overnight. Cook in a double boiler slowly until tender.
Arrange the hot figs in individual dessert dishes around a central
small mound of orange portions which have been skinned and
sprinkled with sugar. Border with sweetened whipped cream
slightly flavored with orange juice.

524

KNICKERBOCKER FIGS

14 pound figs % cup orange-juice

Maraschino cherries 3 tablespoons sugar

Pecan meats 2 teaspoons lemon- juice

Stuff the figs with cherries and broken nut-meats, allowing
two cherries and five nut-meats to each fig. Mix the orange-
juice, sugar, and lemon -juice, add the figs, cover and simmer
until the figs are tender. Drain, cool and serve in individual
paper cases.

RHUBARB SCALLOP WITH MERINGUE

y2 pound rhubarb y^ teaspoon salt

1 cup granulated sugar 1 small sponge cake

Grated rind of 1 orange 2 ^gg whites

2 tablespoons powdered sugar

"Wash and peel rhubarb and cut in 1-inch pieces; add sugar,
orange rind and salt, mixing well. Cut sponge cake in thin
slices; line bottom of greased baking dish with 3 or 4 slices;
cover with 54 of rhubarb. Continue to make alternate layers of
cake and fruit until material is used. Cover and bake in mod-
erate oven (350° F.) for 30 minutes. Beat q,%% whites until
stiff; add sugar slowly, beating until blended. Pile on baked
pudding and bake 15 minutes longer, or until meringue is
slightly browned.

SOUTHERN FRIED APPLES

Core but do not peel, medium-sized Jonathan or Spitzenberg
apples. Slice ^ inch thick to make perfect rings. Heat Yi cup
butter in thick-walled skillet — aluminum, chrome or steel —
until light brown. Fit in the apple slices to cover bottom with-
out breaking. Mix % cup sugar with 1 tablespoon ground
cinnamon and dash of salt. Cover apples with Yz the mixture.
After 5 minutes turn the slices with pancake turner to avoid
breaking. Cover with remaining sugar mixture. Fry over low
flame until almost transparent. If too well done, they break
easily. Serve hot.

CUSTARDS, GELATIN AND
CREAM DESSERTS

MOST desserts made with eggs, cream and gelatin, or with
any one or two of these ingredients, are best served very-
cold. The mechanical refrigerator is excellent for chilling such
desserts.

Custards

A custard is a mixture of cooked egg and milk, flavored.
Starchy material is sometimes used to replace part of the eggs.
Custards are classified according to the method used in cooking
them; those cooked over hot water and stirred throughout the
cooking process are known as soft or stirred custards — erro-
neously, as boiled custards; those set in hot water and cooked in
the oven (oven-poaching) are firm or baked custards.

The firmness of a custard depends on the proportion of eggs
to milk. (See "Useful Facts about Eggs.") The finest-grained
custards are those in which the yolks predominate.

If fresh milk is not available, an unsweetened canned milk or
milk powder may be used with excellent results.

No. 1. PLAIN SOFT CUSTARD

2 cups milk Ys teaspoon salt

2 whole eggs or 4 tablespoons sugar

4 egg-yolks Yz teaspoon vanilla

Scald the milk in the top of the double boiler. Beat together
slightly the eggs, sugar and salt. Add the hot milk to the
egg mixture, mix thoroughly and return to the top of the
double boiler. Cook over hot water, stirring constantly until
the egg coats the spoon.

No. 2 — If eggs are expensive^ modify the recipe for soft
custard by substituting one teaspoon of corn-starch for one
egg-yolk or two teaspoons for two egg-yolks or one whole
egg. Make the milk and starch into a sauce and cook over hot
water twenty to thirty minutes before adding any eggs.

525

526

VARIATIONS OF PLAIN SOFT CUSTARD

Coffee — Use recipe for soft custard, substituting one cup
of very strong coflfee for one of the cups of milk.

Caramel — Caramelize one-fourth cup sugar and add to one
cup scalded milk.

Follow recipe for soft custard, using this milk with caramel
as part of the milk, and using in addition the full amount of
sugar called for in the recipe.

Chocolate — ^Melt one ounce of chocolate and add to it
two tablespoons of sugar dissolved in two tablespoons of boil-
ing water. Mix thoroughly. Add this chocolate mixture to
two cups of scalded milk and use as the milk in a plain soft
custard.

WAYS OF SERVING SOFT CUSTARD

Soft custard may be served in sherbet cups, frappe glasses
or deep sauce dishes, garnished with whipped cream and pieces
of tart jelly.

It may be poured over fresh fruit.

It may be poured over lady fingers or sponge cake and may
then be garnished with meringue or whipped cream.

It may be served as a sauce for most gelatin dishes.

It is an excellent foundation for ice-creams.

FLOATING ISLAND

2 cups milk 6 to 8 tablespoons sugar

3 eggs ^ teaspoon vanilla
Ys teaspoon salt

Follow directions for soft custard, using two egg-yolks and
one whole Qgg, Cool and turn the custard into a glass dish or
into custard cups. Beat the two egg-whites until stiff and beat
into them two to four tablespoons of fine granulated or pow-
dered sugar. Drop this meringue by spoonfuls on the custard
and chill thoroughly. A candied cherry or a small bit of red
jelly placed on each spoonful of meringue adds to the attractive
appearance of the dish.

CUSTARDS, GELATIN, ETC. 527

CARAMEL PUDDING

1 cup brown sugar ^ cup flour

2 cups milk 2 eggs

Mix sugar and one and one-half cups of milk. Scald in double
boiler until sugar is dissolved. Mix flour with beaten egg-yolks
and the remaining half cup of milk and add to the hot milk,
stirring constantly until it thickens. Remove from fire and fold
in stiffly beaten egg-whites. Chill and serve with whipped
cream.

ORANGE FOOL

6 oranges Sugar

3 eggs Nutmeg

2 cups cream Cinnamon

Squeeze and strain the juice from the oranges. Beat the eggs
and add to them the cream and the orange-juice. Sweeten to
taste. Add a sprinkle of grated nutmeg and powdered cinna-
mon, and cook in a double boiler, stirring constantly until the
mixture coats the spoon. Pour into glass dishes and chill
thoroughly before serving.

PLAIN BAKED CUSTARD

2 cups scalded milk Ys teaspoon salt

3 eggs Yz teaspoon vanilla

4 tablespoons sugar

Scald the milk. Mix sugar, eggs, salt and flavoring and com-
bine with scalded milk. Pour into custard cups or baking-dish
set in pan of hot water and poach in a slow oven (300° F.)
until firm. A knife blade run into the center of the custard
will come out clean.

VARIATIONS OF BAKED CUSTARD

Caramel.

No. 1 — Caramelize one-fourth cup of sugar and add to two
cups of scalded milk. Use as the liquid in a plain baked custard.

No. 2 — Caramelize one-half cup of sugar. Pour into a mold
or pour a little into each of six custard cups. Before it hardens,
move the mold about so that the caramel will coat the sides.
Wlien the caramel is hard, fill the molds with plain baked

528

custard mixture and bake as directed for baked custard. These
custards are unmolded and served either hot or cold. The cara-
mel melts during the cooking process and when the custard is
turned into a dish forms a sauce around it.

Cocoa — Substitute cocoa, made as for drinking, for scalded
milk in baked custard recipe.

Chocolate — Melt one and one-half ounces of chocolate and
add to milk. Use in a plain baked custard.

Coffee — Substitute one cup of strong coffee for one cup of
milk in baked custard recipe.

Gelatin and Cream Desserts
ONE QUART STANDARD GELATIN JELLY

1 ounce (2 tablespoons) ^ cup to 1 cup sugar (lemon-
granulated gelatin juice requires more sugar
Yz cup cold water than orange- juice, and
Yz cup boiling water orange-juice more than cof-
3 cups other liquid or fruit- fee or cream)
juice

Soak gelatin in cold water until soft. Add to boiling water
and stir over hot water until thoroughly dissolved. The object
of heating only part of the water is to hasten the cooling and
solidifying of the gelatin mixture. Add sugar and stir until
dissolved. Remove from heat. Add remaining liquids or fruit
pulp and mix thoroughly. Pour into molds that have been
dipped into cold water.

STANDARD FORMULA FOR WHIPS

Use recipe for standard gelatin jelly but leave the mixture in
the bowl in which it was mixed until it begins to congeal. Then
whip until it becomes light and frothy. Fold in 1 J/2 cups fruit
pulp, as prune or apricot. Turn into molds and chill.

STANDARD FORMULA FOR SPONGES

Use recipe for standard gelatin jelly with these exceptions:
use three-eighths cup instead of one-half cup cold liquid; whip
the congealing jelly and add beaten whites of two eggs after
jelly begins to congeal.

Any Fruit Sponge may be made into a delicious semi-

CUSTARDS, GELATIN, ETC. 529

frozen dessert by substituting cream for egg-white and chilling
two to three hours. Three tablespoons cream should be sub-
stituted for each egg-white in the recipe, the other quantities
remaining the same. Whip the cream and fold in, following
directions given for egg-white.

STANDARD FORMULA FOR CHARLOTTE OR
BAVARIAN CREAM

Use recipe for standard gelatin jelly with these exceptions:
Use one-quarter cup instead of one-half cup cold liquid and
add one-quarter cup cream, which should be beaten and folded
in after the mixture begins to congeal. Part cream and part
whipped egg-white may be used if you prefer.

LEMON JELLY

1 ounce (2 tablespoons) 2^ cups ice- water

granulated gelatin 1 cup sugar

y2 cup cold water ^ cup lemon-juice

Yz cup boiling water A little lemon-rind

Combine as directed for standard gelatin jelly. Serve with
cream or soft custard.

SNOW PUDDING OR LEMON WHIP

When lemon jelly begins to congeal, beat it thoroughly with
an egg-beater. Mold. When cold and jellied, serve with soft
custard.

LEMON SPONGE

Reduce the ice-water in lemon jelly to two cups. When
the jelly begins to congeal, whip until light and frothy and fold
in the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. Serve with cream or
soft custard.

ORANGE JELLY

1 ounce (2 tablespoons) 1 cup ice- water

granulated gelatin 1 ^ cups orange- juice

Yz cup cold water 3 to 4 tablespoons lemon-juice

Yz cup boiling water A little grated orange-rind
1 cup sugar (may be omitted)

Combine as directed for standard gelatin jelly.

530

ORANGE WHIP

When orange jelly begins to congeal, whip until light and
frothy. Mold.

ORANGE SPONGE

Reduce the ice-water in orange jelly to one-half cup. When
the jelly begins to congeal, whip until light and fold in the
stiffly beaten whites of two eggs.

ORANGE CHARLOTTE OR BAVARIAN CREAM

Omit the ice-water in orange jelly. When the jelly begins
to congeal, fold in one cup of whipping cream beaten to a stiff
froth. The jelly may be whipped before adding the cream, if
desired. It makes a more delicate product.

FRUIT JELLIES, WHIPS, SPONGES, CHARLOTTES

OR BAVARIAN CREAMS

Use recipe for orange jelly, orange sponge, or orange charlotte
or Bavarian cream, substituting one and one-half cups of any
other fruit pulp or juice for one and one-half cups of orange-
juice. If stewed sweetened fruit pulp is used, reduce the amount
of sugar proportionately. Fresh raspberries, strawberries and
peaches make particularly good sponges and Bavarian creams.

COFFEE JELLY

1 ounce (2 tablespoons) Yz cup boiling water
granulated gelatin 1 cup sugar

Yz cup cold water 3 cups strong coffee

Combine as directed for standard gelatin jelly. Particularly
good served with whipped cream.

FIG AND GINGER PUDDING

Yz pound crystallized ginger Y2. ounce (1 tablespoon)

lYz pounds figs granulated gelatin

2 cups sugar Y2 cup cold water
5 cups water Whipped cream
Y2 teaspoon powdered ginger

Cut the crystallized ginger and figs into tiny pieces. Dissolve
the granulated sugar in the water, and add the powdered ginger,

CUSTARDS, GELATIN, ETC. 531

the crystallized ginger and the figs. Place all in a double boiler
and simmer slowly all day. The entire mass must form a soft
pulp so that the ingredients will scarcely be recognized. Soften
the gelatin in the cold water and stir into the mixture while
hot. Turn into high-stemmed glasses and serve ice cold with
whipped cream.

GRAPEFRUIT A LA ST. PATRICK

1 ounce (2 tablespoons) ^ cup sugar

granulated gelatin 1 cup ice- water

Yz cup cold water 2 cups grapefruit pulp and
Yz cup boiling water juice

Fresh mint Maraschino cherries

Cut the grapefruit in half, crosswise, and scoop out the pulp
being careful not to cut the skins. Drop the shells into cold
water until needed. Simmer a few sprigs of fresh mint in the
boiling; water until the flavor is extracted. Follow the standard
directions for making jelly. When jelly is firm, cut it into
cubes, pile the cubes in the grapefruit shells and garnish with
sprigs of mint and cherries.

MOLDED LIME FRUIT SALAD

1 package lime gelatin 1/2 cup canned white cherries

1 cup boiling water J4 ^P ^^^ seeded grapes, cut
1 cup cold water in fancy shapes

4 slices canned pineapple 4 halved pears

Dissolve gelatin in boiling water and add cold water. Set
aside to cool slightly. Add fruit and pour into mold which has
been rinsed out with cold water. Refrigerate to set.

Garnish — Mix cream cheese with chopped nuts and rais-
ins; stuff pears, place in individual gelatin molds, fill with lime
gelatin and allow to congeal. Use as garnish around lime mold,
topped with pimiento cream cheese flower. Place decorated pine-
apple slices between pears. Serve with creamy eggless mayon-
naise. See page 450.

Decorating Jelly

Have the mold thoroughly chilled. Pour in a layer of jelly
about one-half inch deep. Chill. When firm, arrange a design
of fruit or nuts or both, dropping a few drops of jelly on each

532

piece to hold the design while the jelly hardens. When the jelly
holding the design in place has congealed, add enough jelly to
cover the design and let this harden. A single design may serve
or alternate layers of fruit and jelly may be arranged in this
way. Each layer must congeal before the next is added.

REFRIGERATOR CHEESE CAKE

14 cup melted butter 3 eggs, separated

% cup sugar 2 cups cream cheese

2 cups fine zwieback 3 tablespoons lemon juice

crumbs 1 tablespoon grated
2 teaspoons cinnamon lemon rind

2 tablespoons gelatin 1^ teaspoon salt

1 cup cold water l/^ cup whipping cream

Blend butter, 54 ^^P sugar, crumbs and cinnamon. Press %
of this mixture on the bottom of a 9-inch spring form pan.
Soak gelatin in J/i cup cold water for 5 minutes. Cook egg-
yolks, remaining sugar (Yz cup) and water (Yz cup) in a
double boiler, stirring constantly, until mixture coats a metal
spoon. Add gelatin and stir until dissolved. Add gradually to
cream cheese, add lemon juice, rind and salt, beat thoroughly.
Cool, when beginning to congeal, beat several minutes with
an egg beater. Whip cream and fold in with stiffly beaten egg-
whites, blend thoroughly. Pour onto crumbs. Sprinkle remain-
ing crumbs over top. Chill until firm. Serves 10 to 12.

For variety use crumbs made from graham crackers, vanilla
wafers, gingersnaps, chocolate cookies, browned dried bread
crumbs, crushed cornflakes or other suitably prepared breakfast
foods in place of zwieback.

GELATIN BLANC MANGE

i pint milk 1 teaspoon vanilla

y^ cup sugar 1 tablespoon water

1^/2 teaspoons granulated
gelatin

Heat the milk in the top of a double boiler. Add the gelatin
softened in the cold water. Stir constantly, adding the sugar
a little at a time. Cook over hot water for fifteen minutes

CUSTARDS, GELATIN, ETC. 533

stirring frequently. Strain into molds that have been dipped
in cold water and chill. Serve with cream.

Chocolate — Dissolve one square bitter chocolate, add the
milk and sugar, using one-third cup sugar, before adding the
gelatin.

CHOCOLATE CREAM

6 tablespoons cocoa Yz teaspoon salt

5/3 cup sugar 1 pint cream

3 tablespoons water 1 egg

Mix cocoa, sugar and water, and cook over the fire, stirring
until thick and smooth. Cool slightly and pour over stiffly
whipped cream, and beat thoroughly with a spoon. Add egg
and again beat well. Chill in refrigerator, allowing an hour
and a half or two hours for a mechanical refrigerator and longer
for an ice-cooled refrigerator.

No. 1. VELVET CREAM

Yz ounce (1 tablespoon) 4 tablespoons powdered

granulated gelatin sugar

% cup cold water 1 pint cream

J4 cup boiling water 1 teaspoon vanilla

Follow standard directions for making the jelly. As soon as
it begins to congeal, add the cream. Flavor with vanilla. Turn
into a mold and place on ice to harden. Serve with maple
sauce.

No. 2 — ^Use same ingredients as for preceding recipe. Whip
the cream and fold into it the dissolved gelatin and sugar mix-
ture. Mold.

SPANISH CREAM

1 ounce (2 tablespoons) ^ teaspoon salt

granulated gelatin 2 eggs

Yz cup cold water 2Y4 cups cold milk

Y2 cup hot milk 1 teaspoon vanilla
Y3 cup sugar

Make a custard of the egg-yolks, sugar and hot milk. Add
the softened gelatin. Proceed as for standard sponge mixtures.
Mold, chill and serve with whipped cream.

534

PLAIN BAVARIAN CREAM

1 ounce (2 tablespoons) Yz cup sugar

granulated gelatin Salt

Yz cup cold water 1 teaspoon vanilla

1 pint scalded milk 1 pint heavy cream
4 egg-yolks

Soak the gelatin in cold water until soft. Make a soft custard
of the milk, egg-yolks, sugar and flavoring. Stir the softened
gelatin into the hot custard. When the gelatin has dissolved,
strain and cool. Whip the cream and fold it in as the mixture
congeals.

RICE BAVARIAN

lYz pints milk 1 ounce (2 tablespoons)
Lemon-peel granulated gelatin

Yz cup rice Y2 cup cold water

Ya teaspoon salt 1 cup heavy cream

Y2 cup sugar Strawberries
1 teaspoon flavoring

Put the milk and a few thin cuts of lemon-peel into a double
boiler. When it is hot, stir in the well -washed rice and salt.
Cook until the rice is perfectly tender. The milk should be
nearly absorbed, leaving the rice very moist. Add to the hot
cooked rice the flavoring, the sugar and the gelatin, which has
been soaked in the cold water, and mix carefully. When the
mixture is beginning to set, fold in the cream, whipped stiff.
Pour into a mold and chill. Serve with sweetened crushed
strawberries. The white mold with red sauce makes a charming
combination.

MONT BLANC

1 pound large chestnuts ^ cup sugar

Yz teaspoon salt Whipped cream

Put the chestnuts into the oven for a moment, until the shell
and inner skin can be easily removed. Boil the skinned chest-
nuts in water with the salt and three tablespoons of the sugar,
until they are very tender. Add one-half cup sugar to the
water and chestnuts and let stand until thoroughly cold. Re-
move chestnuts from this sirup and run them through a potato-
ricer on to a platter, mounding it high. Save a few of the finest
whole pieces to decorate the dish. Top the mound with a

CUSTARDS, GELATIN, ETC. 535

spoonful of sweetened whipped cream, and put a border of
whipped cream around the edge of the dish, dotting it with the
whole nuts here and there.

MACAROON BISQUE

1 cup heavy cream 18 macaroons

Powdered sugar 6 maraschino cherries

Vanilla

Whip a cup of cream until stiff, sweeten with powdered
sugar and flavor lightly with vanilla. Stir in six macaroons
broken in small pieces, but not powdered. Pile in sherbet
glasses with a border of the whole macaroons and decorate with
marshmallows or maraschino cherries. This is an excellent
emergency dessert.

PINEAPPLE AMBROSIA

1 fresh pineapple or 1 cup heavy cream

1 can crushed pineapple 2 tablespoons sugar

Yz pound marshmallows 154 tablespoons lemon- juice

Shred the pineapple with a fork. Cut the marshmallows into
small pieces, using a pair of scissors. Mix the pineapple and
marshmallows and let stand on ice until thoroughly chilled.
Just before serving, whip the cream and add the sugar to it.
Add lemon- juice to the pineapple mixture and then fold in
the whipped cream. Serve immediately in individual glasses
or in a large dessert dish.

FRUIT FLUFF

1 cup powdered sugar 4 cups sliced peaches or

1 cup thick cream apple sauce or berries

2 egg-whites

Add half the sugar to the cream, stir until the sugar is dis-
solved, and then add the whites of the eggs beaten stiff. Place
the sliced peaches in a dish, sprinkle them with the remainder
of the sugar, pour on the cream mixture, and serve at once.
The success of this depends upon its being thoroughly chilled
when served. The cream, egg-whites and fruit should be
chilled for at least two hours before the dish is to be prepared,
and the finished dessert should be kept in the refrigerator until
needed.

A COOL CREAMY
SLICE OF CHARLOTTE
RUSSE RISES TO THE
OCCASION ON A HOX
SUMMER DAY m

Xhradlated Evaporated^
^ \. Milk Institute

^^'t|

SMOOTH, CHILLED
MELON MOLD OF
BAVARIAN CREAM
IS THE FITTING
CLIMAX TO A
WARM-WEATHER
MEAL

imM.

.(#^^'

536

FIG PUFF

1 cup cream 2 tablespoons powdered sugar

1 egg-white Chopped figs

1 tablespoon grapefruit mar- Maraschino cherries

malade Shredded almonds

Whip the cream until thick. Beat the egg-white until stIflF,
then combine with the cream and add the sugar and marmalade.
Stir chopped figs into the mixture until it becomes very thick.
Pack in long-stemmed glasses. This may be garnished by
sprinkling the top with macaroon crumbs. Arrange a half
maraschino cherry with radiating strips of almonds in the center
of each.

CHARLOTTE RUSSE

No. 1 — ^Line a number of small molds, or one large deep
mold, with a thin layer of cake. Thin sponge cake that has
been cut with a sharp knife, when cold, into two layers of equal
thickness is considered attractive, but halved lady fingers or
pieces of any plain cake cut one-half inch thick may be used.
Charlottes are made with and without tops, according to taste
or convenience.

Fill the forms with whipped cream sweetened with powdered
sugar and any desired flavoring. To make sure that the cream
is sufficiently stiff, fold into it lightly the stiffly beaten whites
of two eggs to eacli pint of cream. Keep the charlottes on ice
until needed, and serve on chilled plates.

No. 2 — Substitute velvet cream (See Index) for the whipped
cream mixture in the preceding recipe.

MAPLE CHARLOTTE RUSSE

Yz ounce (1 tablespoon) Yz cup maple sirup

granulated gelatin 1 teaspoon vanilla

Yz cup cold water 1 pint heavy cream

Yz cup scalded milk Lady fingers
Ya cup brown sugar

Folk)w standard formula for charlotte or Bavarian cream
(See Index). Line molds with lady fingers and fill with the
cream mixture. Chill, unmold and serve.

CUSTARDS, GELATIN, ETC. 537

ICE BOX CAKES

General Directions — Line the bottom and sides of a spring
form melon mold or deep cake form with lady fingers, separated
and placed with the rounded side toward the pan. Place them
as close together as possible. Prepare any of the fillings and
proceed as follows:

Place a layer of the filling on the lady fingers at the bottom
of the form. On top of this arrange another layer of lady
fingers, then another layer of filling, and so on, placing lady
fingers on top like the spokes of a wheel.

Set in the refrigerator or other cold place and let it stand
twenty to twenty-four hours. When ready to serve, remove
the rim of the form, place the cake with the tin bottom on a
platter, cover the top with sweetened and flavored whipped
cream. Decorate, if desired, with pistachio or other nut-meats
or with candied cherries.

Quantities Required — ^To encase and garnish the fillings
given below, unless an exception is noted, the quantities re-
quired are as follows:

lYz dozen lady fingers Yz cup confectioners' sugar

Yz pint thick cream Y2 teaspoon vanilla

Chocolate Filling.

4 eggs 3 tablespoons water

Yz pound sweet chocolate 3 tablespoons sugar

Melt the chocolate in a double boiler, add the sugar and the
water with the yolks of the eggs, well beaten. Cook slowly
until thick and smooth, stirring constantly. When cool, add
the stiffly beaten egg-whites.

Mocha Filling.

1 cup hot milk Yz teaspoon salt
Ya cup ground coffee 3 eggs

Yz cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla

2 tablespoons corn-starch

Pour the hot milk over the coffee and let stand where it will
keep hot for ten minutes. Strain. Mix corn-starch, salt and
sugar in a double boiler, add the egg-yolks, well beaten, stir
in the coffee infusion gradually. Cook slowly until thick and

538

smooth, stirring constantly. Remove from fire and cool slightly.
While still warm, fold in the stiffly beaten egg-whites.

Almond or Pecan Filling — With this filling macaroons
are combined with the lady fingers usually used.

1 cup unsalted butter 6 eggs

lYi cups powdered sugar 18 lady fingers

Yz pound blanched and grated 30 macaroons
almonds

Line the bottom of the mold with stout waxed paper.
Separate the lady fingers and place the halves close together
on the sides of the pan, rounded ends cut off and rounded sides
toward the pan. Lay macaroons close together on the bottom,
flat side down. Fill the small spaces between macaroons with
the ends cut from the lady fingers.

Cream butter and sugar, add three eggs, one at a time, and
stir well. Add the yolks of the remaining eggs, well beaten,
then the nuts, then fold in the beaten whites. Place one-half
of this mixture over the macaroons. Add another layer of
macaroons and top with the rest of the filling.

Set in the refrigerator and leave for thirty hours. Serve as
outlined in General Directions.

Lemon Filling.

1 cup rich milk Yz cup sugar

1 tablespoon butter 3 eggs

1 teaspoon corn-starch Juice of 1 lemon

Place corn-starch, sugar, egg-yolks, slightly beaten, milk and
butter in a double boiler. Cook slowly until thick and smooth^
stirring constantly. Add the lemon- juice. Remove from the
fire and cool slightly. While still warm, fold in the stiffly
beaten egg-whites.

Rich Lemon Cream.

5 eggs, separated 1 cup powdered sugar

1/2 cup lemon juice

Mix egg yolks, sugar and lemon juice and cook over hot water
5 minutes, stirring constantly until mixture thickens. Fold
gently into stiffly beaten egg whites. Chill.

HOT AND COLD PUDDINGS

THE temperature at which a pudding is served depends some-
what upon the nature of the pudding. However, souffles,
must be served hot because they begin to fall as soon as they are
taken from the oven; and certain others, such as the steamed
puddings and baked batters or doughs, become soggy when cold.
Some puddings may be chilled almost to the point of freez-
ing, and for these the mechanical refrigerator is very satisfac-
tory. Use the ring mold for both hot and cold puddings, unmold
on the serving plate and serve with the bowl of sauce or cream
in the center. See page 344.

Puddings that May be Served Either Hot or Cold
BREAD PUDDING

2 cups stale bread. 2 eggs

1 quart milk ^4 cup sugar

54 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon vanilla

Yz cup raisins if desired

Soak the bread in the milk until it is very soft, then mash
it fine. Heat together until nearly boiling. Beat the eggs until
light and add to them the sugar, salt and vanilla. When well
mixed, stir this into the bread and milk, pour the whole into
an earthenware baking-dish, set in a pan of water, and bake
in a slow oven (250°-350° F.).

Chocolate Bread Pudding — Melt two squares of chocolate
over hot water and add this to the soaked bread and milk.

COCONUT PUDDING

Yz cup bread-crumbs 3 tablespoons sugar

Yi cup moist coconut Yz teaspoon salt

2 cups milk 1 tablespoon butter or other
1 ^%Z fat

Soak the bread and coconut in the milk until soft, then mash
and add the sugar, salt and melted fat. Beat the white and

539

540

yolk of the egg separately; add the yolk to the mixture, then
fold in the white. Pour into a greased baking-dish, set in a
pan of hot water and bake in a slow oven (250°-300° F.).

SPICE PUDDING

1 cup raisins Yz teaspoon cloves

1 egg Yz teaspoon allspice
Yz cup sugar Y4 teaspoon nutmeg

2 cups milk 1 teaspoon melted butter or
IY2 cups fresh bread-crumbs other fat

1 teaspoon cinnamon Ys teaspoon salt

Seed the raisins and cut them in half. Beat the egg light,
add the sugar and then the milk and pour the whole over the
crumbs. Add the spice, fat, salt and raisins, stir well, pour into
a baking-dish, set. in a pan of water, and bake until firm in a
slow oven (250°-3 50° F.). Serve hot or cold, with any de-
sired sauce.

QUEEN OF PUDDINGS

2 cups stale bread-crumbs Currant jelly or plum jam
1 quart scalded milk 2 tablespoons sugar for

3 eggs meringue
Y2 cup sugar

Soak the crumbs in the hot milk until 5of t ; then add the egg-
yolks mixed with the sugar, pour into a baking-dish set in a
pan of water, and bake in a slow oven (250°-350° F.) about
an hour, or until custard is set. When cool, spread a thick layer
of the jelly or jam over the top. Beat the egg-whites until stiff,
add the sugar gradually and beat until stiff, spread this meringue
on top of the jam and place in the oven until a delicate brown.
Serve hot or cold, with cream.

ORANGE AND RICE

Pare oranges, cut in half crosswise and remove the core. Cook
the halves, until they are tender but not broken, in a sirup made
from equal parts of sugar and water, to which a little lemon -
juice has been added.

Place around a mound of boiled rice and pour the sirup over
the whole. Serve with plain or whipped cream, or a custard
sauce. Serve hot or cold.

HOT AND COLD PUDDINGS 541

CREAMY RICE PUDDING

3 tablespoons rice Yi teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon sugar Yz teaspoon cinnamon or

1 quart milk nutmeg

"Wash the rice thoroughly, add the other ingredients and pour
into a greased baking-dish. Bake from one and one-half to two
hours in a slow oven (250°-350° F.) stirring several times.
The mixture should not boil.

This is the old-fashioned creamy pudding which has such a
delicious flavor because of the long slow cooking. One-half cup
of raisins may be added, if desired. Serve hot or cold.

APPLE OR OTHER FRUIT TAPIOCA

1 cup any fresh fruit, such as has been soaked but not

apples, peaches, apricots, cooked

sour cherries and cran- ^ cup granulated tapioca

berries or Y2 cup sugar

1 cup any dried fruit which 3 cups cold water

Cook the tapioca and water in a double boiler until trans-
parent. Pare and core the apples or prepare the other fruit,
place in a baking-dish, sprinkle with sugar, pour over the sweet-
ened fruit the tapioca, cover and bake in a slow oven (250°-
350° F.) until the apples or other fruit are perfectly tender.
For the last ten minutes, remove the cover so that the surface
of the pudding may brown slightly. Serve hot or cold, with
cream.

CREAM TAPIOCA

1 Y2 tablespoons granulated 2 eggs

tapioca Y4 teaspoon salt

2 cups scalded milk 1 teaspoon vanilla
Yi cup sugar

Add the tapioca to the milk and cook in a double boiler until
the tapioca is transparent. Add half the sugar to the milk and
half to the salt and the egg-yolks, slightly beaten. Pour the
hot mixture slowly over the q^^ mixture; return to the double
boiler and cook until it thickens. Remove from the heat and
add the stiffly beaten egg-whites and the flavoring. Turn into
the serving dish and serve hot or cold.

542

With Fruit — Allow the cream tapioca to cool and turn it
over sliced oranges or other cut fruit. Chill and serve.

SCALLOPED PEACHES

1 teaspoon butter or other fat |^ cup brown sugar

1 cup peaches 54 cup bread-crumbs or cake-

1 quart apples crumbs

^4 teaspoon salt 54 cup water

Grease a baking-dish with the fat. Chop the peaches and put
half of them in the bottom of the dish. Pare and quarter the
apples and lay half of them over the peaches. Sprinkle with
salt, add the other half of the peaches, and then the apples, and
sprinkle again with salt. Scatter the sugar over the top, then
the crumbs, then pour the water over all. Cover the dish and
bake in a slow oven (250°-3 50° F.) from forty- five to sixty
minutes, removing the cover after thirty minutes. Serve hot
or cold, with or without whipped cream or marshmallows.

Puddings That Should Be Served Hot

Fruit. SOUFFLES

1 cup fruit pulp 3 egg-whites

Sugar Salt

Any kind of fruit, either fresh or preserved, may be used.
When canned fruit is used, drain from sirup. Rub the fruit
pulp through a sieve, add a pinch of salt, sweeten if necessary,
and heat. Fold the stiflOiy beaten whites of the eggs into the
hot fruit pulp. Fill a greased baking-dish or small molds three-
fourths full, set in a pan of hot water and bake in a moderate
oven (375° F.) until firm. Serve at once with whipped cream
or a soft custard.

Vanilla.

1 cup scalded milk J4 cup sugar
4 tablespoons flour 3 eggs

2 tablespoons fat 54 teaspoon vanilla

Make a sauce of the milk^ flour, fat and sugar. Add the
beaten egg-yolks and flavoring. Fold in the beaten egg-whites,
pour into a greased baking-dish, set this in hot water, and bake
in a moderate oven (375° F.) until the egg-white is set. Serve
at once with lemon sauce or cream.

HOT AND COLD PUDDINGS 543

Chocolate.

1 cup scalded milk 1 tablespoon fat
3 tablespoons flour 54 cup sugar

2 ounces grated chocolate 3 eggs

Make a sauce of the milk, flour, chocolate, fat and sugar.
Proceed as for vanilla souffle.

Coffee.

Substitute coffee for milk in vanilla souffle and omit vanilla.

Lemon.

5 eggs 54 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons sugar 3 tablespoons lemon-juice
Grated rind of J/z lemon

Beat egg-yolks until light. Add sugar and beat again. Add
lemon-juice and rind. Beat egg-whites with salt until stiff and
dry. Fold the egg-yolk mixture into the beaten whites and
bake as directed for vanilla souffle. Serve at once.

Omelet.

3 eggs 154 tablespoons powdered

Vanilla or lemon flavor sugar

Beat the egg-whites until stiff and dry and the yolks until
light. Add the sugar and flavoring to the yolks, then fold in
the whites, and pile the mass as high as possible in a greased
baking-dish. Smooth the top of the mound, make a slit down
the center and bake as directed for vanilla souffle. Sprinkle
with powdered sugar and serve.

Custard.

1 cup milk 2 tablespoons butter or other

2 tablespoons flour fat
2 tablespoons sugar 4 eggs

Make a white sauce of the milk, flour and fat. Stir in the
sugar, allow the mixture to cool slightly, then add the beaten
egg-yolks, mix thoroughly and fold in the stiffly beaten whites.
Pour into a greased baking-dish and bake as directed for vanilla
souffle. Serve at once.

544

COTTAGE PUDDING

1/4 cups flour Yz cup milk

3 teaspoons baking-powder 1 egg

Yz cup sugar J4 cup shortening
Yz teaspoon salt

Sift the flour with the baking-powder. Cream the shorten-
ing and add the sugar and salt and the q^^, well beaten. Then
add the milk and flour alternately. Pour into a greased pan
and bake in a moderate oven (375°-400° F.) 3 5 to 45 minutes.

BLUEBERRY PUDDING

Add one cup blueberries to cottage pudding batter and bake
in muffin tins at 400° F.

FRUIT BATTER PUDDING

Place a thick layer of fruit in the bottom of a greased bak-
ing-dish and pour custard souffle or cottage pudding batter
over it. Bake in a moderate oven (375° -4 00° F.) about thirty
minutes. Any fresh or canned fruit that is not too juicy may
be used, or dried fruit that has been soaked. Apricots, peaches
and blackberries are particularly delicious.

BROWN BETTY

This puddifig; is usually made with apples, but almost any
other fruit may be used instead of or in combination with them.
Peaches, apricots and rhubarb are especially good. Serve hot
with cream or with any preferred sauce, or without a sauce.

No. 1.

Ya. cup melted butter Y2 cup fruit-juice or water

1 pint bread-crumbs Y2 cup sugar or molasses

1 pint sliced apples or other Juice and grated rind of a

fruit lemon or orange, if desired
Cinnamon or other spices

Arrange layers of buttered crumbs and thin sliced apples in
a pudding dish. Sprinkle each layer of fruit with sugar and
a little cinnamon or other spices. Finish with a layer of crumbs
and pour fruit- juice or mixed molasses and water over the top.

HOT AND COLD PUDDINGS 545

Cover and bake in a slow oven (2 50° -3 50° F.) for thirty-
minutes, then remove the cover and bake forty-five minutes
longer.

No. 2.

1 cup bread-crumbs 1 cup water

3^ cups chopped apples or 1 apple, washed, cored and

other fruit sliced to form rings

Yz cup honey

Mix the crumbs and chopped apples or other fruit and place
in a deep baking-dish. Bring the honey and water to a boil
and pour over the fruit and bread mixture. Sprinkle a few
dry crumbs on top and lay the apple rings around the edge.
Bake in a slow oven (250°-350° F.) as directed for No. 1.

APPLE CHARLOTTE

Slices of stale bread, ^ inch Stewed tart apples, mashed
thick and seasoned with sugar

Melted butter and nutmeg

Chopped almonds, if desired

Line a greased mold with the bread slices, dipped into or
brushed with the melted butter. The sHces should fit close
together and may even overlap. Fill the center with the stewed
apples and add chopped almonds if you wish. Cover the top
with slices of the bread, buttered, and bake in a hot oven
(400° F.) for thirty minutes. The bread should have the ap-
pearance of being sauted and should be well browned. Turn
out on a platter and serve hot.

PEACH PUDDING

6 sliced peaches, fresh or 2 cups milk

canned, or ^ cup dried ^ teaspoon vanilla

peaches, soaked and stewed 3 eggs

y^ cup sugar Stale bread

Yz teaspoon salt

Add the sugar, salt and vanilla to the milk and stir in the
^Z^^-t well-beaten. Dip slices of stale bread into the mixture
and line a quart baking-dish with it. Arrange layers of bread
and sliced peaches to fill the dish. Pour any remaining liquid

546

over the top. Set dish in a pan of ,hot water and bake in a
slow oven (325°-350° R) until firm (about 30 minutes).
Serve hot with any sauce.

ORANGE AND MACAROON PUDDING

Yi pound almond macaroons Yz cup sugar

1 pint milk 2 oranges
4 eggs

Soak the macaroons in the milk. Beat the eggs and add to
them the sugar and the grated rind of one orange. Stir the
mixture carefully into the macaroons and milk and add the
juice of the oranges. Pour into a greased mold and set on a
trivet in a kettle of boiling water. Simmer steadily for an hour.
Serve hot with orange sauce.

NEW ENGLAND PANDOWDY

2 cups tart apples, pared and 2 tablespoons water
cored, or other fruit Nutmeg or cinnamon

Sugar Baking-powder crust

Fill a greased baking-dish half full of the fruit, sprinkle
with sugar and cinnamon or nutmeg, add the water to make
a little juice and cover with a baking-powder biscuit crust.
Bake in a hot oven (400° -450° F.) until the crust is thoroughly
baked and the fruit tender. If the crust becomes too brown
before it is cooked through, reduce the heat slightly after the
first twenty minutes. A thick crust of this kind is more easily
baked if a small opening is left in the middle. With a rolled
crust a piece may be cut out with a tiny cookie cutter. If the
crust is dropped from the spoon it may be placed around the
edge of the dish so that there is a small opening in the center.

APPLE RICE PUDDING

1 cup rice Yz teaspoon cinnamon

2 Q%%s Ya teaspoon salt
% cup sugar 3 large apples
Y2 cup raisins ^ cup butter

Wash the rice and boil in salted water until soft. Drain.
Add the egg-yolks, sugar, raisins, cinnamon and salt. Cut the
apples in very small pieces and add to the rice. Beat the e^g-

HOT AND COLD PUDDINGS 547

whites stiff and fold into the mixture. Melt the fat in a baking-
dish and stir half of it into the pudding mixture, spreading the
rest over the inside of the dish. Pour the mixture into the bak-
ing-dish and bake in a moderate oven (375° -400° F.) about
forty minutes. Serve hot.

No. 1. INDIAN PUDDING

1 quart milk Yz cup brown sugar

54 cup corn-meal Yz teaspoon salt

54 cup raisins Yz teaspoon ginger

Yz teaspoon cinnamon 1 e^^

Place the milk in a double boiler and when it is scalding hot
add the corn-meal, moistened with cold water, and stir con-
stantly to avoid lumps. Cook for twenty minutes. Turn into
a pudding-dish and stir in the other ingredients adding the
beaten Qg^ last. Bake two to three hours in a slow oven (250°-
350° F.) and serve hot with hard sauce or any preferred sauce.
One-half cup dates or figs may be used instead of the raisins.

No. 2.

34 cup corn-meal 2 eggs

1 quart hot milk 1 tablespoon shortening

1 teaspoon cinnamon Y2 teaspoon salt

y^ cup sugar 2 cups chopped apples

Slowly add the meal, moistened with cold water, to the hot
milk, stirring constantly, and cook to a thick mush. Add the
other ingredients and mix well. Turn into a greased baking-
dish and bake in a slow oven (250°-350 F.) for two hours
and a half. Serve hot with any sauce desired.

OLD-FASHIONED STRAWBERRY OR OTHER
FRUIT SHORTCAKE

2 cups flour 54 cup shortening
4 teaspoons baking-powder ^ cup milk

Yz teaspoon salt Butter

1 tablespoon sugar Strawberries or other fruit

Mix and sift the dry ingredients and work in the shortening
with the fingers or a knife. Gradually add enough milk to
make a soft dough, mixing with a knife. Toss the dough on
to a floured board and tap and roll to one-half inch thickness.

54B

Bake in sheets for a large shortcake or cut with a biscuit cutter
or bake in muffin tins for individual shortcakes. Bake in a
very hot oven (450° -460° F.) twelve to fifteen minutes. When
done, split into two parts, butter and put crushed sweetened
fruit between the layers and on top. Serve hot with cream.

Any fresh berries, peaches, oranges, bananas, or stewed fruits,
fresh or dried, may be used for shortcake.

FRUIT DUMPLINGS

■;.■■•■ V

Make a baking-powder biscuit dough, adding a little more
shortening than when making biscuit. Roll one-fourth inch
thick and cut into five-inch squares. Place a mound of fruit,
pared, cored, or whole, in the center of each square. If large
fruit is used, it should first be cooked £Ye or ten minutes.
Sprinkle the fruit with sugar and cinnamon or nutmeg. Moisten
the edges of the dough with water or cold milk and fold so
that the corners will meet in the center. Press the edges lightly
together.

The tops may be brushed with beaten egg, melted fat or
milk, and sprinkled with sugar. Place dumplings in a greased
pan with a small amount of boiling water and bake in a very
hot oven (450° F.) until crust and fruit are cooked. Serve
with cream or a sauce.

ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING

1 pound chopped suet 2 cups crumbs

2 pounds raisins 1 teaspoon mixed spices
1 pound currants 2 cups brown sugar

1 pound mixed peel 8 eggs

2 cups flour

Mix the suet, the fruit and the chopped peel and dredge with
some of the flour. Mix together the remaining flour, crumbs,
spices and sugar, and add the well-beaten eggs. Stir the fruit
and suet into this mixture and mix the whole thoroughly. Put
into greased molds or into pudding cloths. Drop into a kettle
of boiling water and boil from five to seven hours, according
to the size of the pudding. Serve with hard sauce or any desired
liquid sauce.

HOT AND COLD PUDDINGS 549

Steamed Puddings

APPLE, OR OTHER FRUIT ROLY-POLY

Make a baking-powder biscuit dough and roll it into a
sheet about one-fourth of an inch thick. Spread it thickly
with sliced apples, and sprinkle over them sugar and cinnamon.
Roll up the dough as for jelly roll, pressing the overlapping parts
of the dough well to the body of the pudding and also press the
ends well to prevent the escape of the juices. Roll and tie in a
cloth, leaving room for the pudding to expand, place on a plate,
cover carefully and set in a steamer over a kettle of hot water
and steam one and one-half hours. Serve hot with apple sauce
or any other sauce desired.

This may be baked if apples that cook quickly are used.
Cherries, cranberries or other fruit may be used instead of
apples.

CARROT PUDDING

iVz cups crumbs 54 cup chopped dates or
1 tablespoon shortening or Yz prunes

cup fine chopped suet 54 cup raisins

5^ teaspoon salt 5^ cup chopped figs

Yz cup grated carrots 54 cup ground nuts

1 teaspoon baking-powder Y2 lemon
1 cup molasses

Brown the crumbs and mix them with the fat. Salt the car-
rots, which have been grated or put through the meat-grinder,
and add them to the crumbs. Next add the molasses, the fruit,
nuts, lemon-juice and grated rind. Mix all well together and
stir in the baking-powder. Turn into a well-greased mold and
steam for four or five hours. Serve with a raisin sauce.

FRUIT PUDDING

3^ cups mixed fruit and juice 2^4 cups flour

^ Gup shortening 4 teaspoons baking-powder

1 cup sugar 1 cup milk

2 eggs Cream, sherry wine

Place fruit in deep baking dish, cover and boil. Cream the
shortening and sugar, add the beaten eggs and beat well. Sift
together the flour and baking-powder and add to the first
mixture alternately with the milk. Add flavoring. Mix to
smooth batter and pour over boiling fruit mixture. Cook 40

%fe. '^'"

TOP YOUR RENNET-
CUSTARD WITH
FLUFFY MERINGUE OR
D E L I C A T E L Y
BROWNED COCONUT
SHREDS

A HAPPY COMBINATION OF FRUITS
MAKES THIS PUDDING COLORFUL
AND TEMPTING
—Wheat Flour Institute

EAM
C, THIS
PUDDING IS
FOR DINNER
—Wheat Flour ^

Institute

COOKERY. THIS PLUM
PUDDING Also HOIDS
COURT IN MANY AMERii

^liliiiiiiM

.^-*

^^^'^^^

^^^"

minutes in moderate oven (350° F.). Turn out on hot platter,
allowing fruit sirup to drip over pudding. Serve with whipped
cream flavored with sherry wine.

STEAMED CHOCOLATE PUDDING

2 cups flour Yz cup hot mashed potatoes

^Yz teaspoons baking-powder 1 eg^

54 teaspoon salt 2^ squares chocolate

1 cup corn sirup 3 tablespoons shortening

54 cup water

Mix and sift the flour, baking-powder and salt. Mix the
sirup with the water and add to the flour mixture. Stir in the
mashed potatoes and the beaten q^^. Add the chocolate, melted
over hot water, and the melted shortening. Mix well, pour into
greased individual molds and steam two hours. Serve with any
desired sauce.

STEAMED DATE PUDDING

1 pound dates 1 egg

Yz pound beef suet J4 cup milk

3 cups bread-crumbs 4 tablespoons flour

%. cup sugar 2 teaspoons baking-powder

Chop the dates and suet very fine. Mix the suet with the
bread-crumbs. Add the dates and the sugar. Stir in the Qg%,
add milk, and flour sifted with the baking-powder. Put in a
greased mold and steam for three hours. Serve with any de-
sired sauce.

No. 1. STEAMED GRAHAM PUDDING

54 cup ground cracklings 1 teaspoon salt

1 cup molasses 1^ cup seeded raisins

1 cup sour milk 2 tablespoons white flour

2 cups graham flour 1 teaspoon cinnamon
Yz cup corn-meal }4 teaspoon each, mace,
4 teaspoons baking-powder cloves, allspice, ginger
Yz teaspoon soda

Mix and sift the dry ingredients, excepting the white flour.
Add molasses and milk to cracklings. Combine mixtures. Mix
white flour and raisins and add to mixture. Turn into greased

HOT AND COLD PUDDINGS 551

mold. Cover and steam three hours. Serve with caramel or
lemon sauce.

No. 2.

1 cup graham flour 1 cup molasses

1 cup white flour 1 cup sour milk

1 teaspoon salt 1 egg

y^ teaspoon soda 1 cup raisins

Mix and sift the dry ingredients, keeping out one-half cup
of flour to sift over the raisins. Add the molasses, milk and
beaten tgg. Mix well, then add the raisins which have been
dredged with flour. Pour into greased molds and steam two
and one-half hours. Serve with any sauce desired.

STEAMED MARMALADE PUDDING

1 cup flour 4 eggs

Yz cup shortening 4 tablespoons marmalade

Yz cup sugar 2 teaspoons baking-powder

Beat the shortening and sugar, add the flour and baking-
powder, sifted together, and the eggs, well beaten. Mix well.
Spread the marmalade in the bottom of a mold, pour the batter
on top, cover the mold and steam for one and one-half hours.

STEAMED PEACH PUDDING

3 cups peaches 4 teaspoons baking-powder

2 cups flour 2 tablespoons shortening
Y2 teaspoon salt 1 cup milk

To be successful with this kind of pudding, the cook must
see that the water is boiling violently when the pudding is
placed over it and must not allow it to fall below the boiling-
point at any time while the pudding is cooking.

Sift the flour, salt and baking-powder together, rub in the
shortening and add the milk. The result will be a dough too
soft to roll out. Peel and stone the peaches and cut them into
rather thick slices. Place the sliced fruit in a greased pudding-
dish, spread the dough over the fruit and set the dish in a
steamer over a kettle of rapidly boiling water, covering the
steamer tightly. Steam for one hour. Turn the pudding out
without breaking. This brings the peaches uppermost, when
the pudding is sent to the table. Serve with hard sauce or any
liquid sauce.

552

STEAMED SUET PUDDING

3 cups sifted flour 1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon soda 1 cup suet

1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 cup sour milk

1 teaspoon cloves 1 cup molasses
Yz teaspoon grated nutmeg 1 cup raisins

Mix and sift the dry ingredients, keeping one-half cup of
flour to sift over the raisins. Chop the suet fine and add it to
the milk and molasses. Combine the two mixtures and add the
raisins, dredged with flour. Grease pudding molds or baking-
powder cans and fill two-thirds full of the mixture. Cover and
steam for three hours. Serve with hard sauce or any desired
liquid sauce.

Cold Puddings
RICE PUDDING

2 eggs 1^ cups cooked rice
2 cups milk ^ teaspoon salt

Yz cup raisins J/2 cup sugar

54 teaspoon cinnamon or 1 tablespoon powdered sugar

nutmeg

Separate the whites and yolks of the eggs, add to the yolks two
tablespoons of the milk and place the rest of the milk on the
fire in a double boiler. Wash the raisins, put them in the milk
and cook until soft (about fifteen minutes). Add the rice,
cook iiMQ, minutes longer, then stir in the yolks of the eggs and
the salt, sugar and spice. Stir well, cook for two or three
minutes, remove from the fire and pour the pudding into the
serving-dish. Beat the whites of the eggs light, add sugar,
spread the meringue on top of the pudding and brown delicately
in the oven. Serve cold.

RICE AND APPLE PUDDING

8 apples Yz cup rice

4 tablespoons butter 8 tablespoons marmalade
4 tablespoons sugar Ya teaspoon salt

Cut the apples into small pieces and simmer in a saucepan with
the fat and sugar and enough water to cover. Wash the rice

HOT AND COLD PUDDINGS 553

and cook in boiling salted water until soft, then drain. Line
the bottom and sides of a mold with the rice, fill the center with
the apples, and spread the marmalade over them. Cover the
mold with rice and bake in a slow oven (300°-350° F.) for
fifteen minutes. Let stand until cold, then unmold and turn
on to a platter. Serve with any desired sauce.

Apricots or other fruit may be substituted for the apples.

PEAR CONDE

1 cup rice 3 pears

2 cups boiling water 1 quart raspberries or straw-
1 teaspoon salt berries

1 cup milk 1 cup sugar

"Wash the rice and cook it in the boiling water until the water
is absorbed, then add the salt and milk and continue cooking
until the rice is soft. Put into small molds and chill. Turn out
and serve on a platter surrounded by halves of pears. Fill the
pear cavities with one-half the fresh raspberries or strawberries,
crushed and sweetened. Pour the remainder of the crushed^
sweetened berries over the rice and pears. A spoonful of
whipped cream with each serving is a great addition to this
dish.

NEW ENGLAND APRICOT PUDDING

Yz pound dried apricots 1 cup boiled frosting, using

Cinnamon toast three egg-whites or 1 cup

Yz cup sugar meringue

Soak the apricots over night. Stew until tender and add the
sugar. Arrange squares of cinnamon toast in the bottom and
around the sides of a pudding-dish. Pour in the boiling hot
apricots, cover the dish so that no steam can escape and cool
gradually. Chill and cover the top with boiled frosting
garnished with bits of jelly or with meringue.

PEASANT GIRL WITH A VEIL

2 cups dried crumbs 1 cup tart jam Whipped cream

This is a delicious Danish pudding. Crumble bits of graham
or rye bread to make fine crumbs. Add a little sugar to the
crumbs and heat them in slow oven until they are very dry.
Cool and mix with any kind of jam, preferably a tart jam like
apricot or plum. Mold, chill and serve with whipped cream.

554

FRUIT CHARLOTTE

Line cups with triangular pieces of sponge cake and choco-
late cake, alternating. Fill the center with slices of orange
and peach. Chill, turn out on a serving-plate and surround
with whipped cream and blackberries. Put a spoonful of
whipped cream on top and serve very cold.

SWEET STRAWBERRY OR OTHER FRUIT
SHORTCAKE

% cup shortening lYz cups pastry flour

^ cup sugar 2J^ teaspoons baking-powder

2 eggs ^ 'teaspoon salt

Yz cup milk or water Strawberries or other fruit

Cream the fat, add the sugar gradually, continuing the cream-
ing process until all is added. Separate the eggs. Beat the yolks
until creamy, add to the shortening and sugar mixture and mix
well. Sift the flour, measure, add the baking-powder and salt
and sift again. Add the flour and milk alternately. Beat the
whites of the eggs until stiff and fold into the mixture. Pour
into two well-greased layer-cake tins and bake in a moderate
oven (375° F.). Turn out and cool. Spread one sheet with a
layer of sweetened, crushed berries or diced fruits. Cover with
the other sheet and cover the whole with more fruit. Top with
whipped cream, if desired. Serve at once.

RENNET-CUSTARDS

1 rennet tablet 1 pint milk

3 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla

Set out 4 or 5 dessert glasses. Dissolve rennet tablet in 1
tablespoon of cold water. Warm the milk, sugar and vanilla
slowly, stirring constantly, until lukewarm (110° F.) — not
hot. A few drops of milk on the inside of your wrist should
feel only comfortably warm. Remove from stove. If desired,
add small pinch of salt. Add dissolved rennet tablet and stir
quickly for a few seconds only. Pour at once, while still liquid,
into dessert glasses. Let set until it thickens — about 10 minutes.
Chill rennet-custards in refrigerator. Serve in same glasses.

HOT AND COLD PUDDINGS 555

Rennet-custards may be served with a sauce made of a mixture
of sweetened fruits such as bananas, cooked or canned pine-
apple, oranges and dates or crushed and sweetened berries. They
may also be served with chocolate or caramel sauce.

VARIATIONS OF RENNET-CUSTARDS

Chocolate — Melt one ounce of chocolate over hot water.
Add three tablespoons hot water, cook until it is smooth and
add to the milk before it is heated.

Caramel — Caramelize the sugar, add sufficient hot water to
dissolve the caramel and add to the milk.

With Eggs — ^Beat the yolks of 2 eggs with the sugar and
mix with the milk before it is heated. Make a meringue of the
whites by beating until stiff, then beating in sugar. Drop
spoonfuls on a buttered baking sheet and bake in moderate oven
at 325° F. until lightly browned. At serving time, top each
dish of rennet-custard with a meringue.

CORN-STARCH BLANC MANGE

21/^ tablespoons corn-starch II4 cups scalded milk

2 to 4 tablespoons sugar 1/^ teaspoon vanilla

14 cup cold milk Pinch salt

Mix corn -starch and sugar with one -half cup cold milk. Scald
remainder of milk in top of double boiler. Carefully add the
corn-starch mixture to the scalded milk, cook over direct heat,
stirring constantly until thick and smooth. Cover and cook
in the double boiler for forty-five minutes. Five minutes before
it is finished add vanilla and salt. Turn into molds wet with
cold water and refrigerate.

VARIATIONS OF CORN-STARCH BLANC MANGE

Fruited — When corn-starch blanc mange begins to set, stir
in one cup of fruit, such as cherries, crushed pineapple, or rasp-
berries.

Coconut — Add one or two cups moist coconut to corn-
starch blanc mange.

Arrowroot — Use 1 cup scalded milk and 6 teaspoons arrow-
root mixed with Yz cup cold water. Cook in double boiler 45
minutes.

Irish Moss — ^Soak ^ cup Irish moss In cold water to cover
15 minutes. Drain and add to 1 pint milk. Cook in double
boiler Yz hour without stirring. It thickens only on cooling.
Serve this as well as arrowroot with cream, sauce or fruit.

556

Chocolate —

Corn-starch blanc mange 1 cup milk

2 eggs 5 tablespoons sugar
Yz cup grated chocolate 1 teaspoon vanilla

Make the corn-starch blanc mange. Ten minutes before
cooking is completed, add two beaten egg-yolks. Cook long
enough to set the yolks, then mold.

Melt the chocolate over hot water, add the milk and three
tablespoons of sugar, and cook until smooth. Stir in the vanilla
and set aside to cool. When the corn-starch mold is cold, spread
the chocolate mixture over it.

Beat the egg-whites until stiff, add the remaining two table-
spoons of sugar and a few drops of vanilla. Spread on top of
the chocolate. Brown delicately in a slow oven (300°-
3^0° F.).

Prune —

3 tablespoons corn-starch 1 ^ cups hot pulp and juice
Yz cup sugar made from cooking Yz
Yz cup cold prune-juice pound prunes until tender

1 teaspoon cinnamon 2 tablespoons lemon-juice

Mix and cook as for corn -starch blanc mange. Mold and
cool. Serve with cream or lemon sauce.

Caramel — Add 54 cup caramelized sugar sirup (page 457)
to milk after scalding.

Coffee — Substitute 1 cup strong coffee for 1 cup milk.

MOCK BUTTERSCOTCH CUSTARD

1 cup firmly packed brown 3 cups milk

sugar 3 eggs, separated

6 tablespoons flour % teaspoon vanilla

Mix sugar and flour thoroughly; add milk slowly, stirring un-
til smooth. Cook over boiling water 15 minutes. Stir small
amount into beaten ^^^ yolks, then return to remaining hot mix-
ture and cook 2 minutes longer, stirring constantly. Remove
from heat and fold gently into t^^ whites, beaten until stiff but
not dry; add vanilla. Cool.

FROZEN DESSERTS

Ice Creams

ICE CREAMS are generally classified as cooked or uncooked.
All ice-creams are stirred or beaten while freezing.

Plain or Philadelphia Ige Cream — ^This is cream, or
cream diluted with milk, sweetened, flavored and frozen. Plain
ice-creams may be flavored with extracts or may have crushed
nuts or fruits added. Rich, oily nuts do not combine well with
ice-cream. "Walnuts, almonds, pecans and pistachio nuts are
most often used, and crushed peaches, pineapple, apricots or
berries are particularly good for flavoring.

Bisque Ice Cream — ^This is made by adding to plain ice-
cream such material as pulverized macaroons, ground nuts and
stale sponge cake crumbs, to give variety in texture and flavor.

French and American Ice Creams — ^In these, the founda-
tion is a custard made with cream, milk, eggs, sugar and flavor-
ing, cooked, chilled and then frozen. In French ice-cream the
custard mixture contains many eggs. In American ice-cream a
plain custard is used.

Neapolitan Ice Cream — ^This may be made of any variety
of ice-cream tinted in three colors and variously flavored. It is
packed in layers after it is frozen. Sometimes it is made of a
combination of ice-cream and water-ice.

Frozen Pudding — ^This is plain ice-cream plus a combina-
tion of fruit and nuts with bread-crumbs, cake-crumbs or
powdered macaroons.

Mousses, Parfaits and Biscuits

Mousses — ^A mousse is whipped cream, sweetened, flavored,
packed, and frozen without stirring. Gelatin is often used to
give body to a mousse. In that case it is sometimes spoken of
as a frozen souffle. Chocolate, coffee, maple and fruit flavors
of various kinds are used.

Parfaits — A parfait is made by pouring a hot, thick sirup
over beaten egg-yolks or beaten egg-whites, adding whipped
cream, and packing and freezing the mixture without stirring.

557

558

Chocolate, maple and cotfee are the most popular flavors for
parfaits.

Biscuits — ^A biscuit is a yellow parfait mixture to which
beaten egg-whites are added. It is stirred until it is partly
frozen and then packed in small paper serving cases. The cases
are laid in the trays of the mechanical refrigerator or in con-
tainers which are placed in a freezing mixture.

Water Ices, Sherbets, Bombes and Punches

All these mixtures are stirred while being frozen.

Ices — ^A plain ice is a sweetened fruit-juice which may or
may not be diluted with water.

Sherbets — A sherbet is a plain ice plus egg-whites. Gela-
tin is sometimes used in sherbets. In milk sherbets, milk, instead
of water, is used with the fruit-juice.

Bombes — A bombe is a combination of two or more frozen
mixtures, packed in layers in a covered mold.

Punches — ^A punch is a water-ice frozen to a mush with
some highly spiced fruit-juice or other flavoring added.

Sorbets — A sorbet is a sherbet made of several kinds of fruit.

Equipment for Making Frozen Desserts
The Crank Freezer

This type of freezer consists of a bucket of wood or metal
for holding the freezing mixture, ice and salt, and a non-rust-
ing metal container with a dosely fitting cover for holding
the mixture to be frozen. The mixture in the container is
stirred by a paddle attached through the cover to a crank
which is operated by hand or which may be attached to a small
electric motor.

Ice Crusher — ^A bag of heavy muslin, burlap, canvas or sail-
cloth is required to hold the ice while it is broken into small
pieces. Some implement is necessary for pounding the ice in
the bag. A wooden mallet is generally preferred because it
crushes the ice more thoroughly and quickly than a smaller im-
plement. Very satisfactory mallets and bags for breaking ice
can be bought.

The Freezing Mixture — One part salt to eight parts
crushed ice, by measure, is a good proportion for home use. The
ice should be crushed fine, to expose as much surface as possible

FROZEN DESSERTS 559

to the action of the salt. Snow may be used instead of ice, but
it is advisable to mix a small amount of water with the snow to
hasten the melting process. Rock salt is best for use in freezing.
Mix the ice and salt before putting them into the freezer, and
fill the freezer well above the line of the mixture in the ice-
cream container.

The Automatic Freezer

This variety of freezer requires no turning. The wall of the
outer compartment is constructed with an air-space which helps
to keep the warm air from entering and the cold air about the
ice from escaping. The ice-cream is placed in the smaller con-
tainer, covered and packed in ice and salt in the larger container.
At intervals the cover is removed and the contents scraped from
the side and beaten well with a spoon or paddle. It requires
the minimum amount of ice and work to do the freezing and
the frozen product is of a satisfactory quality, although not so
smooth as that made by the freezer in which the mixture is
stirred while freezing.

The Automatic Refrigerator

For speedy freezing, the temperature in the ice-making
drawer of the refrigerator must be under twenty degrees. Your
refrigerator is designed to keep foods at an even low tempera-
ture, and the freezing of desserts is an extra service. If yours
will not freeze them, it is possible to have a switch added which
will keep the motor operating continuously during the freez-
ing period, or the valves may be readjusted to give the whole
box a lower temperature.

No one, however, should be allowed to make adjustments or
tamper with the valves except the electrician sent out by the
salesman.

Preparation of Ingredients

Use More Flavoring in all mixtures that are to be frozen
than in mixtures that are to be served unfrozen, because the
flavor freezes out to some extent. Stir well and thoroughly
dissolve sugar before freezing.

Crush Fruit for fruited creams or put it through a food-
chopper. Large pieces of icy fruit are difficult to eat. Partly
freeze the mixture before adding the fruit, otherwise the milk
or cream may curdle and the fruit may settle to the bottom.

56o

Scalding (not boiling) at least part of the cream and milk
will give greater body and finer grain to ice-cream than it will
have if the cream and milk are used without this preparation.

Chill the Mixture before beginning to freeze. The best
temperature is about 40° F. It should never be over 60° F.
If it is too warm the cream may curdle before freezing.

Freezing Ice Cream

To Freeze Ice Cream in a Crank Freezer, have the ice-
cream container not more than three-fourths full. The turning
of the crank incorporates air in the mixture and the freezing
causes expansion, so allow plenty of room for "swell." Place
the can containing the mixture in the freezer pail. Cover the
can and adjust the top. Turn the crank to be sure that the
cover fits tight. Add the ice and salt mixture as directed. Turn
the freezer slowly until the mixture begins to freeze ; then turn
it more rapidly. This beats up the cream and produces a swell.

Ice cream takes from twelve to twenty minutes to freeze in
a crank freezer. Ices and sherbets take from twenty to thirty
minutes.

To Freeze Ice Cream in a Vacuum Freezer, pack in
the same manner as when a crank freezer is used. Several times
during the two hours that are necessary for freezing, remove
enough ice so that you can uncover the can without danger of
salting the cream; scrape the mixture from the sides of the can
with a spoon or paddle and beat thoroughly.

For Quick Results with the Automatic Refrigerator,
take these precautions:

1. Chill your mixture well before freezing.

2. Do not try to freeze pans of water at the same time with des-
serts.

3. Do not open and close your refrigerator doors often or place
warm, steamy foods in the box while you are freezing desserts.

4. Do not have the mixture too sweet or it will not freeze.

Ice cream mixtures having a heavy custard base respond very
well to the automatic refrigerator. It is best to cook only the
yolks of the eggs, then chill, and finally fold in the beaten
whites just before freezing. This method not only gives a
better texture but a greater volume to the finished product.

Refreshing and palatable sherbets may be frozen in the auto-

FROZEN DESSERTS 561

matic refrigerator, but they are likely to be granular even when
gelatin and beaten egg-whites are added.

Ice-creams and sherbets, and all other frozen desserts having
a custard or gelatin foundation should be very vigorously stirred
one hour after being placed in the refrigerator to freeze, and
several times subsequently at half to three-quarter-hour in-
tervals.

The addition of whipped cream does much to make the tex-
ture fine and smooth. Crushed fruit, marshmallows, grape nuts
and crumbled graham crackers will also make desirable textures.

Recipes which are especially good for refrigerator freezing
are: rennet-custard ice cream, maple-fruit ice cream, peach ice
cream — No. 2, prune ice cream, raspberry ice cream, chocolate
ice cream, frozen pudding, peach meringue, maple mousse,
strawberry mousse, maple parfait, biscuit glace, charlotte glace
and marshmallow mousse.

In all of these recipes, except the rennet-custard ice cream,
the cream must be whipped. In making chocolate ice cream, add
the whipped cream when the mixture is half frozen.

Packing and Molding Frozen Desserts

Ice-cream is ready for packing when it has a dull appearance,
adheres to a spoon and retains its shape for some time. By
thermometer test it should be about 27° F. It should be firm
and mellow, smooth and velvety, free from grains or lumps
and neither tough nor mushy. Ice-creams and ices that are
to be molded should be packed into the molds at this time.

To Pack Ice Cream in the Freezer, drain off the brine
and pack the can in coarse cracked ice and salt. Use one part
salt to four of ice by measure. Cover the top of the can with
a layer of ice about six inches thick. Cover the top of the
freezer with newspapers or burlap or any other covering that
will exclude air. Set the freezer in a cool place and let it stand
two or three hours, for the ice-cream to ripen.

When Frozen Mixtures are to be Molded, have the mold
chilled and ready when the mixture is frozen to the point where
it is ready for packing. If it is allowed to freeze too hard before
it is packed into the molds, it is difficult to handle.

Pack the Mixture Into the Mold Carefully, so that
all curves and corners are filled compactly without air spaces;

562

fill the mold to overflowing with the frozen mixture and cover
with a sheet of white paper.

Press the Cover Down Tight and seal the crack with a
thick layer of some fat that is hard when it is cold. The crack
must be completely covered. Bury the mold in cracked ice
and salt, using four parts of ice to one part of salt, by measure.

In Packing a Mousse or Parfait, use equal measures of
salt and ice and let the mold stand from three to five hours,
depending on its size.

When Using the Automatic Refrigerator, pack the
mixture into the trays. Allow four hours for freezing, until
you find that your refrigerator will freeze more quickly.

Paper Cases May be Filled with chilled or partly frozen
mixtures. These may be placed in a closely covered receptacle
and packed in ice and salt or placed in the trays of the auto-
matic refrigerator.

Double Molding — Line the mold with a frozen mixture,
making the layer equally thick in all parts. Fill the center
with a mixture of contrasting color or texture or both. This
mixture may or may not have been frozen first.

Unmolding Frozen Desserts

To unmold a frozen dessert, remove the mold from the ice
mixture, rinse off the salt with cold water, break the seal, re-
move the cover and run a knife around the edge of the mold
to a depth of not more than one-half inch. Invert the mold
on a serving-plate. Let it stand for a few minutes and the
contents will soon slip out. If it does not come out easily, dip
a cloth into lukewarm (not hot) water wring as dry as possible
and wipe quickly over the outside of the mold.

Suggestions Concerning Flavor and Texture

The Amount and Quality of Flavoring Extracts used
are very apparent in the finished product. Some of the flavor
freezes out, so an allowance must be made for this. The flavor
should be delicately suggested rather than too pronounced.

The Amount of Fat in the Cream also affects the flavor.
A rich cream has a better flavor than a 'thin cream.

Salt Added in Small Quantities — not more than one-
half teaspoon to a gallon of the cream mixture — ^serves to give
a "rounded out" or deeper flavor.

FROZEN DESSERTS 563

Ice Cream Should Stand Several Hours to ripen or blend
the many flavors of the eggs, sugar, fruit, nuts, chocolate, and
other substances found in the product. Each flavor may be
distinguished in freshly frozen ice-cream.

If a Colored Product is Desired, only a small amount o£
coloring should be used. A delicate tint is all that is desired.

Texture is Affected by Whole Cream, egg-white, gela«
tin and cooked combinations such as milk and corn-starch or
flour, and milk and eggs. A smooth velvety texture is desired.
Other things being equal, a richer mixture gives a smoother
product. A thin cream gives a coarse texture.

Texture is Also Affected by the Manner of Freezing.
If the mixture is frozen too rapidly, it will be coarse and have
a rough texture, while a slower freezing tends to improve its
texture. This smoothness is not entirely due to the rate of freez-
ing, however, but to the amount of whipping or beating which
takes place before and during the freezing. If frozen without
any beating, the product will be coarse even though made from
a rich cream. The air that is beaten into the mixture in freez-
ing produces a light smooth consistency.

A Certain Amount of Expansion is Desirable. If ice-
cream is properly made, the volume increases at least one-third
and the product is smoother in texture and richer to the taste
than in a cream containing no air. Too rapid freezing prevents
this increase of volume.

Ice Creams

VANILLA ICE CREAM

Philadelphia —

1 quart thin cream ^ cup sugar Yz tablespoon vanilla
Dissolve the sugar in the cream, add the vanilla and freeze.

American.

1 pint milk 2 egg-yolks

2 tablespoons flour 1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons water 1 teaspoon vanilla
Ya cup sugar

Scald the milk, stirring constantly. Mix the flour and cold
water to a smooth paste and add to it slowly the scalded milk,
continuing the stirring. When thickened, cook over hot water

5^4

for about fifteen minutes. Add sugar and beaten egg-yolks
and cook two minutes. Strain the custard through a fine sieve
and, when cold, add the cream and vanilla and freeze. This
makes a smooth, rich cream.

For variation, use dark-brown sugar or maple sugar instead
of the white sugar.

French.

6 egg-yolks ^ cup sugar

5 cups medium cream Vanilla bean

Scald the cream with a piece of vanilla bean. Beat the egg-
yolks, add the sugar and pour the cream slowly on the mixture,
beating constantly. Cook in a double boiler until it thickens,
watching it carefully. Cool, chill, and freeze.

APRICOT ICE CREAM

1 pint milk 2 egg-yolks

2 tablespoons flour 1 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons water 1 Yz cups strained apricot-pulp

1 cup sugar and juice

Make custard as directed for vanilla ice-cream. When cool,
add the apricot-pulp and juice, and freeze.

No. 2.

1 cup dried apricots 2 cups thin cream

1 cup sugar 1 cup milk

Soak the apricots over night and stew them until tender. Put
them through a sieve. Add the sugar to the hot apricots, stir-
ring until dissolved. When cold, add the cream and then
the milk, stirring constantly. Freeze.

BANANA ICE CREAM

1 pint milk Yz cup sugar

1 tablespoon flour 1 pint thin cream

1 tablespoon water }4 teaspoon lemon flavoring

Ys teaspoon salt 2 bananas

Make custard as directed for vanilla ice-cream, American
(page 563). Remove skins; scrape the bananas with a knife;
put through a sieve, and add to the cold custard mixture.
Freeze.

FROZEN DESSERTS 565

BERRY ICE CREAM

1 pint milk 2 egg-yolks

2 tablespoons flour 1 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons water 1 54 cups crushed berries

1 cup sugar

Make custard as directed for vanilla ice-cream, American
(page 563) . When it has cooled, freeze partly; add the crushed
berries, and complete freezing.

CARAMEL ICE CREAM

2 cups milk 1 cup thin cream

1 egg Yz cup macaroons

Yz cup sugar

Caramelize half the sugar (see Index). Combine the milk^
beaten egg, sugar and caramelized sugar. Heat the mixture to
the boiling-point. When cool, add the cream and the macaroons
crushed fine. Beat well and freeze.

BISQUE ICE CREAM

Add one cup of macaroon-crumbs to caramel ice-cream.

CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM

1 pint milk 1 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons flour 1 teaspoon vanilla

2 tablespoons water IY2 squares unsweetened

1 cup sugar chocolate

2 egg-yolks

Make custard as directed for vanilla ice-cream, American
(page 563), adding the chocolate to the milk when scalding.
Cool and freeze.

CINNAMON ICE CREAM

Use the recipe for vanilla ice-cream, American (page 563).
When the milk is put on to scald, add a piece of stick cinnamon
about one inch long and one square of chocolate, grated. Beat
the custard thoroughly with an egg-beater to insure smooth-

ness of color. The cinnamon imparts a rich, spicy taste that
is as elusive as it is delicious.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING FRESH
FRUIT ICE CREAM

Prepare any desired fruit by sprinkling sugar over it. Let it
stand one hour, press through a coarse sieve and stir into vanilla
ice-cream, American (page 563), when the cream is frozen to
a mush.

If Seed Fruits,^ such as currants or berries are used, strain
through a fine sieve or a piece of cheese-cloth and use the pulp
only. This can be put into the freezer with the cream and not
reserved until later, as in the case of the mashed fruits.

Crushed Pineapple with the addition of a little lemon-
juice makes a particularly fine fruit cream.

VANILLA RENNET-CUSTARD ICE CREAM

2 rennet tablets 1 cup heavy cream

3 cups milk 1 cup sugar

2 tablespoons cold water 1 tablespoon vanilla

Dissolve rennet tablets in cold water. "Warm the milk, cream,
sugar and vanilla until lukewarm (110° F.). Remove from
stove. Add dissolved tablets, stir a few seconds; pour at once
into freezer can. Let set until firm and cool. Freeze.

MAPLE-FRUIT ICE CREAM

1 cup maple sirup 1 cup crushed pineapple, fresh

2 cups cream or canned
Yz cup candied cherries

Combine all ingredients and freeze.

MARSHMALLOW ICE CREAM

1 pint milk 1 pint thin cream

1 Q^^ 1 tablespoon vanilla

^ cup sugar - Yz cup marshmallows

Y% teaspoon salt

Make custard as directed for vanilla ice-cream. Add the
marshmallows cut into small pieces. Cool and freeze.

THREE EXCEL-
LENT REASONS
FOR ICE
CREAM,
STRAWBERRIES
AND REFRIG-
ERATORS

PATTERNS OR ME-
RINGUE MOLDS —
FLAVORED WITH
CHOCOLATE OR
FRUIT — HOWEVER
YOU SERVE IT. ICE
CREAM IS AMERI.
CAS FAVORITE
DESSERT

AN IRRESISTI-
BLE SUMMER
SYMPHONY
OF FRUIT AND
ICE CREAM

FROZEN DESSERTS 567

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING NUT
ICE CREAM

Add one-half cup of chopped nuts to a quart of vanilla,
chocolate or caramel ice-cream when the mixture is frozen to
a mush. Finish freezing.

ORANGE ICE CREAM

1 cup milk 2 egg-yolks

2 tablespoons flour 1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons water 1 cup orange-juice
1 cup sugar

Make custard as directed for vanilla ice-cream, American
(page 563). Cool, add the orange-juice slowly, then freeze.

No. 1. PEACH ICE CREAM

1 pint milk 2 egg-yolks

2 tablespoons flour 1 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons water 2 cups peach-pulp and juice

1 cup sugar

Make custard as directed for vanilla ice-cream, American
(page 563). When cool, add the peach-pulp and juice, and
freeze.

No. 2.

1 cup fresh peach-pulp % cup boiling water

Y2 cup sugar 2 cups cream

Make a sirup by boiling the sugar and water together for
five minutes. Add the peaches and put the mixture through
a strainer. Add the cream and freeze.

PISTACHIO ICE CREAM

Use the recipe for vanilla ice-cream, American (page 563).
Scald three-fourths cup of blanched pistachio nuts with the
milk. The mixture may be colored with green vegetable color-
ing, and the nuts may be put through a food-chopper, if desired.
Cool and freeze.

568

PRUNE ICE CREAM

1 cup prune-pulp Ys teaspoon salt

1 cup sugar Yz cup milk

Juice of 1 lemon 1 cup cream
Juice of 1 orange

Rub cooked prunes through a sieve, to obtain the pulp. Add
the remaining ingredients, the cream, whipped, last of all, mix
thoroughly and freeze.

RASPBERRY ICE CREAM

1 quart raspberries 2 cups sugar 1 quart cream

Mash the berries and sugar together, and let them stand for
an hour. Rub through a strainer, add the cream, and freeze.

ROSE ICE CREAM

4 cups light cream 1 to 2 teaspoons rose extract

3 cups heavy cream Y4 teaspoon salt

1 cup milk Pink vegetable coloring

1 cup sugar

Mix all the ingredients together thoroughly and freeze with-
out cooking.

No 1 BAKED ALASKA

Vanilla ice-cream 4 egg-whites

Sponge cake 4 tablespoons powdered sugar

Fill a round mold with vanilla ice-cream, pack and freeze,
hard. At serving time, beat the whites of the eggs until light,
add the powdered sugar and whip until light and dry. Turn
the ice-cream on to a sheet of sponge cake placed on a board
and cover it thoroughly with the meringue. Dust well with
powdered sugar and set the whole in a hot oven (400° -450°
F.) for a moment to brown. Place on a serving platter and
serve at once.

No. 2, Individual — Cut sponge cake into thick slices and
cut out the center of each slice, leaving about half an inch on
each of the four sides and on the bottom. Set these cake boxes
on a board, put slices of well frozen ice-cream inside, and cover
with meringue, piHng it up at the sides. Set in a hot oven

FROZEN DESSERTS 569

(400°-450° F.) for a moment to brown the meringue. Re-
move to a serving-dish and fill the hollows on top with any
preserved fruit or nut mixture.

ICE CREAM SANDWICHES

Between thin slices of devil's food, angel cake, sponge cake
or butter cake, or between halves of eclair or cream-puff shells,
place a serving of ice-cream of a flavor to blend well with the
cake. Cover with chocolate, butterscotch, marshmallow, maple
or fruit sauce, either hot or cold, and top with whipped cream
and nut-meats of various kinds, moist coconut, powdered or
granulated chocolate or pieces of fresh or canned fruit.

For example: (1) Between thin slices of gold or white cake,
place a slice of vanilla ice-cream; over the whole pour plain
marshmallow sauce or whipped cream and garnish with several
tablespoons of crushed strawberries. (2) Fill a cream-puff shell
with peach ice-cream and pour over it a peach sirup, topped
with whipped cream. (3) Place chocolate or vanilla ice-cream
between layers of white or angel cake and cover with a thick
fudge sauce.

SUNDAES

Vanilla, chocolate or any other ice-cream served in a low
glass, with sweetened crushed fruit or any desired sauce poured
over it, is known as a sundae. Whipped cream, nuts, marsh-
mallow cream, etc., may be added as a garnish.

NEAPOLITAN ICE CREAM

1 pint strawberry ice-cream (Any preferred combination

1 pint pistachio ice-cream of flavors may be used in-

1 pint orange ice stead of these)

Pack a mold in salt and ice and spread the strawberry ice-
cream smoothly over the bottom. If it is not very firm, cover
and let it stand for a few minutes. Soread a good layer of
orange ice upon it, and as soon as this hardens, spread over it
the pistachio ice-cream. Cover and freeze.

570

Frozen Puddings
FROZEN PUDDING

2 eggs 2J/2 cups milk

1 cup sugar 1 cup heavy cream

Pinch salt 1 cup candied fruit or nuts

Make a custard of the eggs, sugar, salt, milk and cream. Cool
and freeze. Fill a mold with alternate layers of the frozen
cream and candied fruit or nuts. Cover and freeze.

MOCHA BISCUIT

1 quart milk Yi cup sugar

Yz cup pulverized coffee 2 tablespoons flour

6 eggs

Put the milk into a double boiler, drop into it a muslin bag
containing the pulverized coffee and let it infuse for fifteen
minutes, keeping the milk at the scalding point. Beat the eggs
and sugar together until smooth. Remove the bag of coffee
from the milk, add the flour stirred with a little cold milk or
water and cook fifteen minutes. Pour over the ^%^ mixture
and return to the double boiler to cook until smooth and thick.
When cold partly freeze, then fill paper cases with the mixture
and complete the freezing. Serve garnished with whipped
cream.

NESSELRODE PUDDING

3 cups milk 3 tablespoons pineapple sirup
1/4 cups sugar 1 cup almonds

5 egg-yolks 1 cup French chestnuts

J4 teaspoon salt ^ cup seeded raisins

1 pint cream J4 cup assorted fruits

Make a custard of the milk, sugar, egg-yolks and salt. When
cool, add the cream and pineapple sirup. Blanch the almonds
and chop them fine, then pound to a paste. Shell the chestnuts,
blanch and boil until tender. Force through a sieve, and add to
the custard. Freeze.

Line a two-quart melon mold with half the frozen mixture.
To the remaining half, add a half-dozen large French chestnuts
which have been boiled until tender, also the raisins and the as-
sorted fruits cut in bits. Fill the mold with this mixture, cover

FROZEN DESSERTS 571

and pack in ice and salt for two hours, or pack and freeze in
the trays of the mechanical refrigerator. This is often served
in individual paper cases with a bit of candied fruit on top of
each.

PEACH MERINGUE

14 teaspoon gelatin 34 cup cream

1 tablespoon cold water 2 egg-whites

54 cup boiling water 1 teaspoon vanilla

54 cup sugar Peach ice-cream

Soak the gelatin in the cold water and dissolve it in the boil-
ing water. Add sugar and stir until it is dissolved. Add the
cream. When it begins to thicken, pour slowly over the beaten
whites of eggs and continue beating until it is the consistency
of whipped cream. Add vanilla. Line a round mold with
frozen peach ice-cream and fill the center with the meringue.
Pack in ice and salt, and let stand three to four hours, or pack
and freeze in the trays of the mechanical refrigerator.

Mousses and Parf aits

STRAWBERRY OR OTHER FRUIT MOUSSE

1 pint rich cream 1 cup fruit-pulp Vanilla

Whip and drain the cream. Mix with it the pulp of any
fruit drained free of juice and sprinkled well with powdered
sugar. Add vanilla, mold, and pack in ice and salt for three
hours, or pack and freeze in the trays of the mechanical refrig-
erator.

MAPLE MOUSSE

154 cups maple sirup 2 tablespoons gelatin

Y2 cup sugar J4 cup cold water

5 cups cream

Combine maple sirup, sugar and one cup of cream and bring
to a boil, stirring constantly. Add the gelatin softened in water
and dissolved over heat. Strain, cool in ice-water until the
mixture thickens, then add the remainder of the cream,
whipped stiff. Place in a mold, pack in ice and salt and let
stand for four hours, or pack and freeze in the trays of the me-
chanical refrigerator.

572

MAPLE PARFAIT

% cup maple sirup 3 egg-whites 1 pint cream

Cook maple sirup to the light crack stage (270° F.). Pour
the sirup over the beaten whites of the eggs and beat until cold.
Fold into the stiffly whipped cream. Mold and pack in ice and
salt for four hours, or pack and freeze in the trays of the me-
chanical refrigerator. Serve in parfait glasses with whipped
cream.

MARSHMALLOW MOUSSE

1 pint cream 7 maraschino cherries, cut in

1 cup top milk pieces

6 marshmallows Yz teaspoon vanilla

Yz cup chopped nut-meats 1 egg-white, beaten

Y4. cup powdered sugar

Warm the milk, add marshmallows and beat well to dissolve,
then chill. Beat egg-white and fold in with the sugar and
vanilla. Beat cream very stiff, and fold in, together with the
nuts and cherries. Pack in ice and salt or freeze in the trays
of the mechanical refrigerator not less than two and a half
hours.

BISCUIT GLACE

1 cup sugar 3 Y3 cups cream

Y4 cup water 1 teaspoon vanilla

4 egg-yolks Pulverized macaroons

Make a thick sirup of the sugar and water. Beat the yolks
of the eggs and add the sirup and one-half cup of the cream.
Place all in a saucepan over a slow fire and stir constantly until
it forms a thick coating on the spoon. Empty into a mixing-
bowl, set on ice, beat until it is cold and stiff, and then add
the remainder of the cream beaten very stiff. Flavor with
vanilla or any preferred extract.

Pack the mixture in small paper boxes, sprinkle with pul-
verized macaroons, and set in a covered container. Pack in ice
and salt and let stand for four hours, or pack and freeze in the
trays of the mechanical refrigerator.

BAKED ALASKA, A TOOTHSOME
TREASURE WORTH PROSPECT-
ING FOR IN ANY COUNTRY
— Irradiated Evaporated Milk Institute

. -f<!i;-;.;,™,,j,«:,,,.

MORE MOLD MAGIC IN
THIS SUMPTUOUS BOMBE
OF CHOCOLATE AND VA-
NILLA ICE CREAM ^
— Irradiated Evaporate
Milk Institute

YOU CAN BUY
THE MAKINGS
FOR THIS LUS-
CIOUS LOAF OF
ICE CREAM AND
DEVIL'S FOOD
— National Dairy
Council

FROZEN DESSERTS 573

CHARLOTTE GLACE

54 cup powdered sugar Yz tablespoon gelatin

1 pint thick cream 4 tablespoons cold water

1 teaspoon vanilla

Dissolve sugar in cream. Add vanilla. Soften the gelatin
in cold water, dissolve over heat and combine the two mixtures.

Fill a cylindrical mold (a baking-powder can will do very
nicely) and pack in salt and ice for two hours, or pack and
freeze in the trays of the mechanical refrigerator. Turn out on
a platter, surround with lady fingers, cover the top with
whipped cream and serve.

Ices and Frozen Fruits

; CRANBERRY ICE

[ 1 quart water 1 quart cranberries 3 cups sugar

Make a sirup by boiling water and sugar together for five
minutes. Boil the cranberries in a little water until soft, then
press through a sieve. Add to the sirup, cool, and freeze.

] LEMON ICE

1 quart water 2 cups sugar ^ cup lemon-juice

Make a sirup by boiling the water with the sugar for five
minutes. Add the strained lemon- juice, cool and freeze.

ORANGE ICE

1 quart water 2 grated orange-rinds

^ 2 cups sugar 54 cup lemon-juice

I 2 cups orange-juice

Make a sirup as for lemon ice. Add the fruit- juices and
grated rind. Strain, cool and freeze.

i RASPBERRY AND CURRANT ICE

^ 2 cups sugar 34 cup raspberry-juice

1^ cups currant-juice 1 quart water

\ At least one quart each of the berries and currants will be
needed to give the required amount of juice. Sprinkle one-

574

half cup of the sugar over them, stir well and let stand for one
hour. Strain through a fine sieve or cheese-cloth. Make a
sirup of the remaining sugar and the water. Add the fruit-
juice, strain, cool and freeze.

GRAPE ICE

% cup sugar 1 Yi cups water

1 cup grape-juice 2 tablespoons lemon-juice

J4 cup orange- juice

Boil the sugar and water together for five minutes. Mix all
the ingredients together, strain and freeze.

COUPE SAINT JACQUES

Fruit cup Maraschino cherries

Lemon ice Angelica

Fill champagne glasses with fruit prepared by the recipe for
fruit cup, No. 1 (See Index). Over the top spread a thick
layer of lemon ice, decorating the center with one Maraschino
cherry, and four leaves of angelica radiating from it.

FROZEN STRAWBERRIES OR OTHER FRUIT

Strawberries, raspberries, fresh peaches or crushed pineapple
make delicious frozen fruit. Mash or crush the fruit very fine,
add half as much sugar as there is fruit and allow it to stand
until a sirup is formed. Freeze in a crank freezer or pack in
the trays of a mechanical refrigerator and stir occasionally while
it is freezing.

Canned Fruits, especially pears, and peaches in heavy sirup,
may be frozen in the can. Pack in ice and salt, allow two or
three hours for freezing, open the can and serve in slices.

Sherbets Made without Gelatin
CURRANT SHERBET

3 pints red currants lYz cups sugar

1 pint red raspberries 3 tablespoons lemon-juice

2 cups water 2 egg-whites

Place currants, raspberries and a cup of the water in a kettle
and simmer slowly together for a few minutes. Strain, add

FROZEN DESSERTS 575

remaining water, sugar and lemon-juice. Dissolve sugar in the
fruit- juice mixture, cool and freeze to a mush. Stir in the beaten
whites of eggs. Pack and let stand several hours.

LEMON SHERBET

No. 1 — ^WiTH Water.

1 quart water % cup lemon-juice

3 cups sugar 2 egg-whites

Make a sirup by boiling sugar and water together for five
minutes. Add lemon -juice, cool and freeze to a mush. Add
the beaten whites of the eggs and continue freezing.

No. 2— With Milk.

Yz cup lemon-juice IJ/2 cups sugar 1 quart milk

Mix together the lemon-juice and sugar and add to the milk
slowly, stirring constantly. If the ingredients are cold, and the
acid is added slowly to the milk, rather than the milk to the
acid, there is little danger of the mixture curdling. However,
if it does curdle slightly the quality of the sherbet will not be
affected. Strain and freeze.

PINEAPPLE SHERBET

1 quart water 2 cups crushed pineapple,

2 cups sugar fresh or canned
1 lemon 2 egg-whites

Boil water and sugar together for five minutes. Scald the
pineapple in the boiling sirup, and rub through a sieve. Cool,
add lemon- juice and freeze to a mush. Add the beaten whites
of the eggs and continue freezing.

RASPBERRY SHERBET

1 cup sugar 1 tablespoon lemon-juice

1 quart raspberries 1 egg-white

Add sugar to the raspberries, and let stand in refrigerator for
two hours. If the mixture does not seem sweet enough, more
sugar may be added. Add lemon-juice and beaten egg-white
and freeze. Serve in glasses garnished with whipped cream.

576

Sherbets Made with Gelatin

STANDARD RECIPE FOR SHERBETS MADE WITH

GELATIN

1 tablespoon gelatin 1 cup sugar

lYz cups cold water Fruit-juice

Yz cup boiling water

Soak the gelatin in one-half cup of the cold water. Add the
boiling water and stir until disolved. Then add the sugar,
remainder of cold water, and the strained juice of any fruit.
Chill and freeze.

Lemon — ^Use the strained juice of six lemons.

Orange — ^Use the strained juice of six oranges and two
lemons.

Raspberry — Use a pint of strained raspberry juice and the
juice of two lemons.

Strawberry — Use a pint of strained strawberry juice and
the juice of two lemons.

CRANBERRY SHERBET

1 quart water 2 lemons

2 cups sugar 1 pint cranberry- juice

1 tablespoon gelatin

Boil the water and sugar together for five minutes. Add
the gelatin, which has been softened in cold water and dissolved
over heat, the lemon-juice, and cranberry-juice. Strain, cool
and freeze.

GINGER SHERBET

2 quarts water ^ cup sirup from Canton

3 cups sugar ginger

6 lemons 1 teaspoon powdered ginger

1 tablespoon gelatin 2 egg-whites, if desired

Boil water and sugar together for five minutes. Add lemon-
juice, gelatin softened in a little cold water, the sirup and the
powdered ginger. Freeze to a mush, then stir in the beaten egg-
whites (these may be omitted). Serve in sherbet glasses.

FROZEN DESSERTS

577

PEACH SURPRISE SHERBET

2 cups sugar 2 cups peach pulp

1 quart water 1 lemon

1 teaspoon gelatin 2 oranges

Boil sugar and water together for five minutes, add tKe gela-
tin softened in cold water. When the mixture is cold, add the
peach pulp, which has been pressed through a sieve, and the
juice of lemon and oranges. Freeze.

RASPBERRY SHERBET

2 tablespooons gelatin 2 cups sugar

3 cups cold water 1 cup strained raspberry
1 cup boiling water juice

3 tablespoons lemon juice

Soften gelatin in Yz cup cold water; dissolve in boiling water,
and add sugar, fruit juices and remaining 2 Yz cups cold water;
strain and freeze (page 5 58). Yield: 2 quarts sherbet.

STRAWBERRY SHERBET

Use 1 cup strained strawberry juice; freeze.

RHUBARB SHERBET

Use 1 cup stewed, sieved, pink rhubarb, and omit lemon
juice; freeze.

CARDINAL ICE

1 quart raspberries 3 cups sugar

1 quart currants 2 cups water

Wash, pick over berries. Add 1 cup sugar to each, mash
slightly, cover and let stand in warm place 2 hours, or until
juice is drawn out; strain through cloth. Make a sirup of
remaining cup of sugar and water as for lemon ice (page 573) ;

57l

add fruit juices, cool, strain and freeze (page 558). Yield: 3
pints ice.

AVOCADO PIQUANT CREME

1^ ripe large avocados ^ teaspoon salt

% cup honey |4 teaspoon celery salt

14 cup lime juice

Peel and remove seed from avocados; force pulp through
sieve; add remaining ingredients and blend well. Pour into
freezing tray of automatic refrigerator with temperature con-
trol set at coldest point. Freeze 2 to 4 hours, or until firm,
stirring once during freezing. Serve in sherbet glasses with lamb,
turkey or game; or serve as dessert.

BOMBES

Peach Bombe — ^Line a melon mold evenly with peach ice
cream; fill center with peach mousse mixture; cover, pack in ice
and salt and freeze 3 hours (page 561).

Coffee Bombe — ^Line a melon mold evenly with vanilla or
chocolate ice cream; fill with Mocha biscuit mixture (page
570) ; cover, pack in ice and salt, and freeze 3 hours (page 561).
Pistachio Bombe — ^Line a melon mold evenly with vanilla
ice cream; fill with pistachio cream (page 567) ; pack in ice
and salt and freeze 3 hours (page 561).
Chocolate -Vanilla Bombe —

y^ cup sweet butter l/g teaspoon salt

1/^ cup sugar 1 egg

2 cups irradiated evaporat- 1 teaspoon gelatin

ed milk 1 cup water

2 teaspoons vanilla

Cream butter. Add sugar and cream until fluflFy. Beat in egg.
Soften gelatin in 2 tablespoons water. Scald 1 cup milk. Add
gelatin to milk. Stir hot gelatin-milk mixture into butter-sugar
mixture. Add remaining water, milk, salt and vanilla. Freeze.

To Make Chocolate — ^Heat 2 ounces finely chopped bitter
chocolate with one cup of the milk, add softened gelatin and
dissolve. Proceed as above, with ingredients as for Vanilla.

SAUCES FOR DESSERTS

APRICOT SAUCE

y^ cup apricot pulp ^ cup heavy cream Sugar

DRAIN canned apricots from their sirup and rub through
a sieve. Beat cream until stiff, add to apricot pulp, and
sweeten to taste.

BUTTERSCOTCH SAUCE

1^/2 cups light brown sugar Yz tablespoon lemon-juice

54 cup water Yz cup chopped nut-meats

4 tablespoons butter

Boil sugar and water together to the soft ball stage (234*
240° F.) Add butter, lemon-juice and nut-meats.

CARAMEL SAUCE

1 cup sugar 1 tablespoon corn-starch

1 tablespoon cold water 1 tablespoon butter

1 Y^ cups hot water 1 teaspoon vanilla

Place the sugar and cold water in a pan and stir until the re-
sulting sirup is a clear brown, but not so dark as caramel; then
add the hot water and stir until the whole is well blended.
Add the corn-starch mixed with a little cold water arid boil for
^YQ minutes. Continue cooking over hot water for fifteen
minutes, stirring all the time. Beat in the butter and vanilla.

CHERRY SAUCE

1 cup sugar Y2 cup water

Yi cup butter Y2 cup cherry-juice

1 tablespoon corn-starch

Cream the sugar and the butter, add the corn-starch and the
liquid, and boil over hot water for five minutes, stirring con-
stantly. Continue cooking for twenty-five minutes.

579

58o

No. 1. CHOCOLATE SAUCE

1 Vz cups sugar 4 squares unsweetened choco-

Yz cup water late

y^ cup rich milk or water Yz teaspoon vanilla

Let sugar and water boil in a saucepan for five minutes. Cool
partly and gradually stir in the chocolate which has been melted
over hot water. Add the vanilla. Place in a double boiler or
in a pan over hot water until ready to serve. At the last mo-
ment, add the milk. (If to be used with ice-cream, use water
instead of milk.)

No. 2.

1 cup sugar 1 square chocolate

Yz cup water 1 tablespoon butter

Yi teaspoon vanilla

Mix together the sugar, water and grated chocolate. Boil
for five minutes. Cool slightly and add the butter and vanilla.

COFFEE SAUCE

1 cup clear black coffee 3 egg-yolks Yi cup sugar

Make a soft custard of the three ingredients. This is de-
licious for vanilla or lemon ice-cream.

CUSTARD SAUCE

Use recipe for soft custard (See Index). If a thinner sauce
is desired, the custard may be thinned with a little cream.

FOAMY SAUCE

Yz cup butter 2 tablespoons hot water

1 cup confectioners' sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla

1 egg

Cream the butter and gradually add the sugar, the q^^^ well
beaten, and the hot water. Heat over hot water, beating con-
tinually until it thickens. Add the vanilla and serve.

SAUCES FOR DESSERTS 581

HARD SAUCE

J4 cup butter 1 teaspoon vanilla or other

1 cup powdered, granulated, flavoring

brown or maple sugar

Cream the butter until very soft, then stir in the sugar and
the flavoring. Set in a cool place until required for use. A
grating of lemon-rind or nutmeg, or a sprinkle of powdered
cinnamon may be used instead of the vanilla. Cream or milk
may be added, with more sugar to make more sauce. This
sauce may be used with a hot pudding of any kind.

HONEY SAUCE

1 egg lYz tablespoons butter

Yz cup honey Yz lemon, juice and grated

1 cup hot water rind

Beat the egg, and add the other ingredients in the order
given. Cook over hot water for about fifteen minutes, stirring
constantly.

LEMON SAUCE

1/^ cup sugar Nutmeg Salt

1 tablespoon corn-starch 2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons lemon-juice 1 cup boiling water

Mix the sugar and corn-starch, add the boiling water and a
pinch of salt and boil until thick and clear. Continue cooking
over hot water for twenty minutes. Beat in tne butter, the
lemon-juice and nutmeg. A grating of lemon-rind may be
added.

MAPLE SAUCE

Yz cup water 1 pound (2 cups) maple sugar

Yz cup walnut-meats or 2 cups brown sugar

Add the water to the maple sugar and boil until it reaches
the thread stage (230° -2 34° F.). Add the walnut-meats
broken into small pieces. This sauce is good with ice-cream,
blanc mange or custard. It may be used hot or cold.

582

MARSHMALLOW SAUCE

y^. cup sugar Yz pound marshmallows

54 cup milk 2 tablespoons water

Boil the sugar and milk to the thread stage (230°-234° F.).
Cool and beat until thick and white. Set in boiling water
and stir until thin enough to pour. Stir the marshmallows with
the water in a double boiler until smooth. Pour the sirup over
the melted marshmallows and beat together. Keep warm, but
not hot.

FRUIT MARSHMALLOW SAUCE

Thin commercial marshmallow whip with fruit- juice.

MARSHMALLOW MINT SAUCE

Yz cup sugar 1 egg-white, beaten stiff

% cup water 1 drop oil of peppermint

8 marshmallows Green coloring matter

Make a thin sirup of the sugar and water (220°-230° F.).
Cut the marshmallows in quarters and add to the sirup. Pour
the mixture over the egg-white gradually, beating vigorously.
Add the flavoring and tint a delicate green. This sauce is ex-
cellent served with chocolate ice-cream.

MOLASSES SAUCE

1 cup molasses 1 tablespoon lemon-juice or

lYz tablespoons butter vinegar

Boil the molasses with the butter for about five minutes. Re-
move from the fire and slowly stir in the lemon-juice or vinegar.
This sauce is especially good with brown betty or Indian pud-
ding.

ORANGE SAUCE

5 tablespoons butter 3 egg-whites

Yz cup sugar Juice of 2 oranges

Yz cup boiling water 1 Y2 tablespoons lemon- juice

Cream the butter with the sugar. Put into a saucepan over
hot water and add the boiling water. Then beat in the stiffly
beaten whites of the eggs, the orange-juice and lemon-juice and
continue beating until light and foamy.

SAUCES FOR DESSERTS 583

PLUM PUDDING SAUCE

54 cup butter 2 eggs

1 cup powdered sugar Yz cup rich milk or cream

2 tablespoons cider

Cream the butter and powdered sugar. Add the cider and
the well-beaten yolks of the eggs. When well mixed, stir in
the milk or cream. Cook in a double boiler until it is as thick
as a custard and then gradually pour it into the beaten whites
of the eggs, beating constantly.

RAISIN SAUCE

Yz cup seeded raisins Ya cup chopped citron

1 cup boiling water 1 teaspoon corn-starch
34 cup sugar 1 tablespoon butter

Yz teaspoon lemon-juice

Simmer the raisins and citron in the water until the raisins
are tender (about one hour). Sift the sugar and corn-starch
together and add to the raisin mixture. Mix well and continue
cooking for ten minutes. Add the butter and lemon- juice.

SUGAR BRITTLE

Stir one-fourth cup of sugar without any water in a saucepan
over the fire until melted and of an amber color. Turn on to
an oiled pan. When cold, pound in a mortar or in several folds
of cloth. This may be sprinkled over any ice-cream.

STRAWBERRY OR OTHER BERRY SAUCE

No. 1.

2 cups berries 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 tablespoon butter 1 egg-white

IY2 cups powdered sugar

The small fruits such as strawberries, raspberries and black-
berries, make most satisfactory sauce for desserts. Place the
berries in a bowl, add the granulated sugar and mash slightly.
Refrigerate until time to serve. Beat the butter to a cream, add
the powdered sugar gradually, working it in well. Then add
the egg-white, beaten stiff. Just before serving, combine with
the mashed berries.

No. 2 — Crush ripe berries in sugar.

584

VANILLA SAUCE

Use the recipe for lemon sauce (page 581) substituting one
teaspoon vanilla for the lemon-juice and grated rind.

YELLOW SAUCE

1 egg 3 tablespoons milk

3 tablespoons sugar Y^ teaspoon vanilla

Beat the white of the egg stiff, add the sugar, mix well and
add the yolk of the egg, then the milk and flavoring, beating
after each is added until the whole is smooth. This sauce is de-
licious on almost any pudding.

NEW ENGLAND NUTMEG SAUCE

1 cup sugar 1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon flour 1 teaspoon nutmeg, grated

2 cups boiling water Salt

Mix well the sugar, flour and a pinch of salt. Add boiling
water gradually, stirring continuously. Then add the butter
and cook for five minutes. Remove from the fire and stir in the
nutmeg. Serve hot on apple dumplings, bird's-nest or berry
puddings that have been made with biscuit dough.

AVOCADO CREAM SAUCE

1 cup cream, whipped ^ teaspoon salt

y2 cup powdered sugar % cup sieved avocado

3 drops green vegetable coloring

Peel an avocado, remove pit, and force the pulp through a
fine sieve. Whip the cream until stiff and add the sugar. Mix
well. Add the salt and strained avocado and blend. Then add
the food coloring. This dressing is delicious on fruit salads,
baked apples or any hot dessert.

[

PASTRY AND MERINGUES

PASTRY may be defined as a stiff dough made very short
by means of some kind of fat. It is iised for pies and tarts
and for some other dishes. There are two kinds of pastry;
plain pastry and puff pastry.

Plain Pastry is usually used for pies. It may be made
either crisp and crumbly or light and flaky.

Puff Pastry is not used for under crusts of pies because it
rises or puffs up too much. It is sometimes used for rims wh^re
extra height is desirable, or for upper crusts of rich pies. It
is used for tarts of various kinds, for cases, such as patty shells
and vol-au-vents, to hold creamed mixtures, and for various
shapes which are frosted or otherwise decorated for serving with
afternoon tea or as desserts. It may be cut into points to take
the place of toast as a garnish.

General Directions for Making Pie Crust

Mixing — Pie crust shotild be handled as little as possible.
Sift together the flour and salt (and baking powder, if used) ;
work in the shortening according to the directions for the
different kinds of crust, and add the water gradually, always
pouring it upon dry flour and working the mixture only enough
to obtain a paste that will cling together in a mass and leave
the sides of the bowi clean.

Amount of Water — ^This cannot be given definitely, be-
cause it will vary with the dryness of the flour and the amount
of shortening used. If much shortening is used, less water is
needed, because fat is liquid at oven temperature and so is
counted as liquid. The paste should be soft enough to roll out
smoothly without breaking at the edges. Use cold water, pref-
erably ice-cold, if you wish a flaky pastry.

Chilling — If the paste is chilled before it is rolled, it will
be easier to handle and lighter when baked. Allowing a short
interval between mixing and rolling the paste permits a more
complete absorption of water, and this too contributes to ease
in handling the paste.

Thickening a Paste That is too Soft — If the paste is

585

586

made too soft to roll, it can be thickened by working into it
a combination of flour and shortening in the proportion of one
tablespoon of shortening to four tablespoons of flour. This
keeps the proportions of shortening, flour and water correct
and a good result will be obtained. If flour only is added, the
paste will be tough and hard.

Rolling — Sprinkle flour over the mixing board and rolling
pin and rub it into the wood as much as possible. Sometimes
a stiff, closely woven cloth is used as a cover for the board and
rolling pin and flour is rubbed into it. The mesh of the cloth
holds more flour and gives it up more slowly than the bare
wood, thus making it possible to handle a softer dough upon
the cloth than upon the board.

Place the paste upon the floured board and toss it quickly
over and over to coat the surface with dry flour. Pat into a
round, flat shape, and roll out with light, quick motions of the
rolling pin. Heavy pressure makes the paste stick to the board
and breaks the surface, which should be kept smooth. When
the rolling pin comes to the edge of the paste, it should roll off
into space, not on to the board. The edges of the paste should
not be pinched, but should be of the same thickness as all other
parts.

In making a pie crust, keep the paste in circular form. An
expert pastry maker can roll the paste so that it will exactly
fit the pie tin without need of trimming. The under crust
should be thick enough to support the filling when the pie is
baked; that is, between one-eighth and one-quarter inch thick.

The Lower Crust — ^When the paste is the right size, place
the rolling pin across it, fold one-half of the paste over the
pin, lift the paste over the pan and carefully shift it into posi-
tion. Or, fold the paste double and lift it on to the pan with
your hands. Fit it carefully down into the curve, being care-
ful not to enclose air. If there is too much paste around the
edge, trim off the excess with a knife or by pressing against
the edge with your hands. If only one crust is to be used,
crimp the rim with a pie crust crimper, with the ends of a fork,
with the side of the thumb, or with thumb and finger. If you
desire a deeper pie than the pan provides, make the edge stand
upright by fluting it or make a double rim by adding another
piece of paste cut to fit the rim.

To Prevent Soaking — Various methods of preventing sog-

PASTRY AND IvIERINGUES 587

giness of the under crust of juicy pies are coating the surface
with egg-white, dusting with dry flour and partly baking the
crust before putting in the filling.

The Upper Crust — ^If an upper crust is necessary, roll it as
directed for the under crust, but make it thinner and smaller.
Score a design on it. It is not necessary to cut the design clear
through, as the lines will break sufficiently in baking to allow
the steam to escape and thus prevent puffing of the upper crust.
After the filling is put in, moisten the rim of the under crust
with cold water and lift the upper crust into place. Press the
crusts carefully together around the rim, trim oflF any excess,
and, if you wish, mark the rim as suggested for under crusts.

To Prevent Escape of Juices — ^If the filling is very juicy,
it is wise to bind the edge of the pie with an inch -wide strip
of muslin dipped into water or vegetable tape, used as directed.
A little flour paste will hold ends together. Remove the strip
after the pie is baked. Or, cut the upper crust one-half inch
larger in diameter than necessary, and turn the excess under
the edge of the under crust, previously moistened. Press the
crusts together and mark them as you wish.

Pie and Tart Shells — Crusts baked before filling are done
over the bottom of an inverted pan, between pans, or filled to
y^ their depth with dry b^ns or rice. When inverted the dough
should be pricked to allow air bubbles to escape.

Ready-to-Use Piecrust Mixtures

Piecrust mixtures containing all the required ingredients
except cold water, are procurable in several excellent brands.
These make pie making a simple and quick matter. They are
particularly valuable for the small family.

Baking Pastry

Place pastry in a hot to very hot oven (400°-500° F.) so
that the shortening will be cooked into the flour without first
becoming oily. If the shortening becomes warm and oily be-
fore going into the oven, or after being put into the oven^
the pastry will be tough or hard instead of crisp or flaky. When
the crust begins to brown, the temperature may be reduced.
(See table of cooking periods and temperatures, page 6.)

Some fillings, such as lemon, chocolate and cream fillings.

OFF TO A GOOD START
CUTTING IN THE SHORT-
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588

are cooked and put into a baked crust. This insures a dry,
crisp or flaky under crust. Some custard pies are made in this
way, but the flavor is not so good as when the uncooked custard
is put into the uncooked crust and both are cooked at the
same time.

General Directions for Making Grainy or Crumbly

Piecrust

It is easier to make a good grainy or crumbly piecrust than
it is to make the flaky crust. It is not so important that in-
gredients be cold and it makes no particular difference what
kind of shortening is used ; it may be one of the solid fats or one
of the vegetable oils; it may be melted before it is used, and
hot water may be used instead of cold water. The fat is mixed
quite thoroughly with the flour in making this sort of crust,
and it need not be cut in with two knives, as with flaky pastry
— ^in fact, the finger-tips may be used for this mixing. The
heat of the fingers melts the fat a little, but this is no particular
disadvantage with this kind of pastry.

For crumbly piecrust, pastry flour, rather than ordinary
bread flour, is an advantage and a smaller amount of fat can be
used with the hot-water method.

Baking-powder, one-fourth teaspoon to a cup of flour, has a
tendency to make the crust more tender.

GRAINY OR CRUMBLY PIECRUST

Plain —

iy2 cups flour ^ cup shortening

14 teaspoon salt 3 to 4 tablespoons cold water

Sift flour and salt. Mix in fat with fork or finger-tips until
the mixture has about the consistency of corn-meal. Add water
gradually, tossing the moistened lumps of dough aside, so that
the water may reach the dry material. When the dough clings
together so that the bowl is clean, chill, remove two-thirds of
it to a slightly floured board and roll out, keeping the paste as
nearly circular as possible. Use this for the lower crust. For
the top crust of a two-crust pie, use the remaining paste with
the trimmings of the lower crust. This amount should make
two shells of medium size, or one two-crust pie.

With Vegetable Oil — Use oil in the proportion of Yz cup

PASTRY AND MERINGUES

589

oil to 254 cups flour with 1 teaspoon baking powder. Mix the
shortening into the sifted dry ingredients with a fork. Less
water is necessary to make the dough cUng together. Otherwise
the method is the same.

With Hot Water— No. 1.

II/2 cups flour 1/^ cup shortening

y^ teaspoon baking powder 4 tablespoons boiling water

1/2 teaspoon salt

Sift flour, baking powder and salt. Mix in fat with fork or
finger tips and stir in the boiling water. Cool before rolling.

No. 2.

II/2 cups flour 4 tablespoons boiling water

y^ teaspoon baking powder y^ cup shortening

Y2 teaspoon salt

Pour the boiling water over the fat and beat with a fork
until it becomes a smooth liquid. Sift the flour, baking powder
and salt into this mixture. Stir together, chill and roll out.^ This
mixture keeps well in the refrigerator.

With Cornstarch \

% cup cornstarch 1 teaspoon baking powder

1]^ cups flour 6 tablespoons shortening

1 tablespoon sugar 1 tgg yolk

1 teaspoon salt Cold water

Mix and sift all the dry ingredients. Rub in shortening with
a fork or finger tips and add beaten tgg yolk while stirring.
Add water gradually till paste will hold together. Chill and
roll out.

With Almonds —

114 cups flour Yj teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons pulverized 14 cup shortening

almonds 1 tgg

3 tablespoons sugar Cold water

Mix dry ingredients and rub in fat. Add beaten egg and
water to hold paste together. Cool and roll out.

Almond crust may be used for custard pie or any of its varia-
tions, for fresh fruit or dried fruit pies, for lemon pies, or for

590

pumpkin, squash or sweet-potato pie. The crust is especially
good for tarts, which may be filled with jelly, marmalade,
fruit or whipped-cream mixtures.

General Directions for Making Flaky Piecrust

To make a flaky piecrust more pains must be taken than
in making the crumbly crust. Very soft fats and oils do not
make as nice a flaky crust as the firmer shortenings. Bread
flour may be used very satisfactorily.

In Mixing the Ingredients be sure that they are cold,
particularly the shortening and water. Do not use the finger-
tips for mixing. The heat of the fingers softens the fat. Cut
the shortening into the flour with two knives, rather quickly,
and do not mix it very thoroughly; leave it in lumps or thin
slices which will roll out to make layers or flakes.

There are Three Methods of Making Flaky Crust.
The third one is particularly good when you want to cut down
the amount of shortening used. It is harder to mix and of
course the crust will not be as rich as one in which a larger
amount of shortening is used, but it is not tough.

A Hot Oven is Especially Important in baking a flaky
crust. Layers of cold air have been incorporated into the crust
and the heat of the oven expands this air quickly, making the
crust light.

It is Important to Prick Flaky Crust before baking it.
Otherwise it may puff too much in one place.

No. 1. FLAKY PIECRUST

11/2 cups flour 14 c^P shortening

14 teaspoon salt 3 to 4 tablespoons cold water

Sift flour and salt. Cut in the shortening with two knives.
Do not mix as thoroughly as for crumbly pie cru5t, but leave
shortening in small lumps or slices. Roll lightly and bake
quickly in a hot to very hot oven (see table of cooking periods
and temperatures, page 6) .

No. 2 — ^Use proportions given in No. 1. Mix as in that
recipe, reserving one and one-half tablespoons of the shorten-
ing. Roll the paste out, spread with half the reserved shorten-
ing, roll up like a jelly roll and roll out with the pin. Spread

PASTRY AND MERINGUES 591

with the remaining shortening, roll up and roll out again. If
necessary sprinkle the board with flour to keep the paste from
sticking.

No. 3 — Use same proportions of flour and salt as in preced-
ing recipes. Reduce the amount of shortening as much as one-
half , if desired. Mix flour, salt and shortening as directed above.
Take out one-half of the dry mixture. Add water to the re-
mainder. Roll out in circular form. Place one-third of dry
part in a row across the center of the dough and fold over from
each side to make three layers. Turn half way round and roll
out. Repeat twice more, until all of the dry mixture is used.
Bake as usual.

PUFF PASTE

1 pound butter or other Ice- water

shortening 14 ounces bread flour or

2 teaspoons salt 1 pound pastry flour

(The usual proportions are a pound of flour to a pound of
shortening. )

If salted butter is used, wash it to remove the salt. To do
this, wash the hands in water as hot as possible, rinse in cold
water and knead the butter in ice-water in a scalded bowl until
all the salt is drawn from it. At first the butter will crumble
but when free from salt it will cling and mass together. Pat
and fold till dry and in a compact mass. Reserve two table-
spoons of it and put the rest in the refrigerator till needed.

Work the two tablespoons of shortening into the flour with
the tips of the fingers. Moisten carefully with ice-water, and
turn the dough out on a slightly floured board. Pat it smooth
and divide into halves. Roll out each half to the same size and
thickness. Over one sheet sprinkle a little flour. Take the
remaining shortening from the refrigerator and make into a
sausage-like roll, dredge with flour and roll out very thin as
nearly like the sheets of dough in shape as possible. Flour the
board and rolling-pin so that shortening will not adhere. Place
the shortening between the two sheets of dough and roll as thin
as possible without allowing the fat to break through. When
the sheet becomes thin, fold in the sides until they meet, turn
one-half way about and roll out. Fold and roll in this way
twice and place in the refrigerator for fifteen minutes. Repeat
rolling and cooling until dough has been rolled and cooled four

592

times. If not needed for immediate use, it may be wrapped
in a towel and left in the refrigerator from twelve to twenty-
four hours and will be even lighter and more flaky than when
freshly made.

Puflf paste may be made without cooling, but it is lighter and
rises better when the above directions are followed. The layers
in puff paste are made by folding and rolling, incorporating air
which, expanding with the heat, makes the paste rise.

An important factor in the making of puff paste is to have
the oven at the proper temperature. The paste should be very
cold when put into the oven, and the oven should be very hot,
about 500° F. (cooled later to 450° F. or lower).

For Patty Shells, the oven should have a strong underheat,
allowing them to rise to their full height before browning. If
the oven is too hot, so that the paste begins to brown as soon
as put inj immediately reduce the temperature.

To Glaze Puff Paste — ^When a brown, polished finish is
desired, the pastry is brushed with egg mixed with one table-
spoon of cold water to each egg. The egg must not be beaten
until frothy, but merely enough to make it mix with the water.
Where gloss but no color is desired, the white of the egg alone
may be used; the yolk gives the yellowish brown tinge.

SUET PASTE

1 teaspoon baking-powder 1 cup chopped suet

2 cups flour 1 cup cold water
Yz teaspoon salt

This paste is excellent for boiled fruit pudding and dumplings
or for baked or boiled meat pies. All the ingredients must be
very cold. Sift the baking-powder with the flour, add the salt,
suet and water and mix into a smooth, firm dough. Chill and
roll out.

APPLE PIE

4 to 6 tart, juicy apples 1 teaspoon lemon-juice

1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon cinnamon or nut-

1 teaspoon butter meg, if desired

Line a pie-pan with any plain crust and fill with thinly
sliced apples. Add the sugar, lemon-juice, and spice, and dot

PASTRY AND MERINGUES 593

with the butter. Cover with a top crust, making it a little
richer than the under one. This is easily done by rolling in
bits of shortening and folding the paste several times. Cut a
few slits in the top crust to allow steam to escape. Bake about
forty minutes in a hot oven (450° F.) reduced after ten min-
utes (to 425° F.).

ENGLISH DEEP-DISH APPLE PIE

6 to 8 tart, juicy apples ^ cup water

1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon cinnamon or nut-

1 teaspoon butter meg, if desired

Invert a heavy china cup or a custard cup in the center of
a baking-dish two to three inches deep. Line the sides of the
dish with strips of pie paste, letting the paste come a little
above the edge of the dish. Do not put any paste on the bot-
tom. Fill with apples, pared, cored and cut in slices. Add
sugar, spice and water, and dot with bits of butter. Cover the
dish with pie paste, slashed to allow the steam to escape, and
pinch its edge to the edge of the paste that lines the sides of
the dish. Bake for three-quarters of an hour, or imtil the
apples are thoroughly cooked, in a hot oven (450° F.) for ten
minutes then 425° F. for thirty minutes). When serving, slip
the knife under the cup to allow the confined juice to mix with
the apple. Serve hot with hard sauce.

APPLE OR PEACH MERINGUE PIE

1 quart prepared fruit 3 tablespoons powdered sugar

1 teaspoon nutmeg 1/2 teaspoon vanilla

3 egg-whites

Stew the fruit and sweeten to taste. Mash, and season with
nutmeg. Line a pie-pan with paste, turn in the filling and bake
without an upper crust, for forty minutes in a hot to slow oven
(450° F. for ten minutes, then reduced to 325° F.). Add
powdered sugar and vanilla to stiffly beaten egg-whites. Spread
over the pie and put back into the oven till the meringue is
browned. Serve cold. This amount makes one pie.

594

No. 1. BLACKBERRY PIE

lYz cups blackberries Sugar

Yz cup water Pinch of salt

Wash, drain and pick over the blackberries. Cook until
tender with just enough water to prevent burning. Add sugar
to taste, and a pinch of salt. Line a pie-pan with paste, shape
a ring of the paste around the rim of the pan, fill with berries,
partly cooled, and arrange strips of pastry across the top. Put
on another rim around the edge and bake forty minutes in a
hot to slow oven (450° F. for ten minutes, then 325° F.).

No. 2.
lYz cups blackberries 1 teaspoon corn-starch

Yz cup brown sugar 1 teaspoon butter

Line a pie-pan with crust and brush with white of egg. Add
berries, and sprinkle with sugar and corn-starch mixed together.
Dot with butter, and cover with upper crust. Bake forty min-
utes in a hot oven (450° F. for ten minutes, then 425° F.).

CRANBERRY PIE

V/z cups cranberries ^ cup sugar Y2 cup water

Cook cranberries, water and sugar for about ten minutes.
Cool, place in one crust with a high rim and bake in a hot to
slow oven (450° F. for ten minutes, then 325° F. for thirty
minutes). Put strips of paste, lattice fashion, across the top.

CHERRY PIE

1 quart cherries 1 tablespoon flour

Yz cup sugar Powdered sugar

The common sour red cherries are the best for pies. Line a
deep pie-pan with good plain paste, fill nearly full with stoned
cherries, sprinkle with sugar, sifted with the flour.

Cover with an upper crust, which should be rolled as thin
as possible, make a vent in the center, and press the edges to-
gether so that the juices will not escape during the baking.
Bake in a hot oven (450° F. for ten minutes, then 425° F. for

APPLES AND PEACHES
ARE THE FAVORITE
FRUITS FOR DUMP-
LINGS

PASTRY AND MERINGUES 595

thirty minutes) . Serve cherry pies the same day they are baked,
or the under crust will become heavy. Sprinkle powdered
sugar over each piece just before serving.

Follow the same directions in using any small fruit for pies.

MOCK CHERRY PIE

1 cup cranberries 1 tablespoon flour

54 cup seeded raisins 1 teaspoon almond extract

% cup sugar 1 teaspoon butter

Line a pie-pan with crust. Fill with cranberries, washed and
cut in halves, mixed with chopped raisins. Sprinkle with mix-
ture of sugar and flour, add almond extract, and dot with
butter. Cover with a second crust, and bake in a hot oven
(450° F. for ten minutes, then 425° F. for thirty minutes.)

HUCKLEBERRY OR BLUEBERRY PIE

1 quart huckleberries or 1 cup sugar
blueberries Flour

"Wash and drain the berries and sift a very little flour over
them, dredging carefully, until each berry is lightly coated.
Stir the sugar well into the fruit, and turn into a pie-pan lined
with crust. Cover with an upper crust and bake about forty
minutes in a hot oven (450° F. for 10 minutes, then 425° F.
for 30 minutes). Serve cold, with sugar sifted over the top.
Flouring the berries as directed will make just enough thicken-
ing to counteract the excessive amount of juice.

PINEAPPLE PIE

2 cups crushed pineapple 54 cup sugar

2 tablespoons corn-starch Juice J4 lemon

54 teaspoon salt 2 egg-yolks

Scald the pineapple. Mix corn-starch, salt and sugar, and stir
Into the pineapple. Stir and cook ten minutes. Add lemon-
juice and beaten yolks slowly. Cover and let cook five minutes.
When cool, turn into baked crust, and cover with whipped
cream or a meringue made from the whites of the eggs, or orna-
ment with baked circles, crescents, or other figures cut from
remaining crust.

596

PEACH PIE

2 cups cut up peaches 1 cup sugar

5^ cup water 1 teaspoon butter

Ys teaspoon allspice, if
desired

Pare peaches and slice thin. Put in pie-pan lined with paste;
sprinkle with sugar and spice, add water and dot with butter.
Cover with upper crust and bake forty minutes in hot oven
(450** F. 10 minutes, then 425° F. 30 minutes).

FIG PIE

% pound dried figs 2 tablespoons granulated

1 Vz cups boiling water sugar

2 eggs Yz teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons powdered sugar

Cut the figs fine, add boiling water and cook about one-half
hour, or until the skins are tender. Beat the egg-yolks, add the
granulated sugar and the salt, stir into the figs and cook until
the egg thickens. Turn into a baked crust. Cover with a
meringue made of the stiffly beaten egg-whites and the powdered
sugar. Brown in a slow oven (300° -3 50° F.).

RHUBARB PIE

No. 1, Double Crust —

2 cups cut up rhubarb Flour 1 cup sugar

Wash and peel the rhubarb and cut it into small pieces.
Flour the pieces until they are quite white, then add sugar.
Line a pie-pan with paste, put in the rhubarb, with the sugar
well stirred into it. Cover with the upper crust and bake about
forty minutes in a hot oven (450° F. for 10 minutes, then
425° F. for 30 minutes).

No. 2, Single Crust With Meringue —

2 cups cut up rhubarb 1 tablespoon sugar for

3 tablespoons flour meringue

1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon butter

2 eggs

Line a pie-pan with plain paste. Wash and peel the rhubarb,
cut it into small pieces, and dredge with flour until each piece

PASTRY AND MERINGUES 597

is quite white. Mix the sugar, rhubarb and egg-yolks together
and place in the pie-pan. Dot with butter. Bake in a hot to
slow oven (450° F. for 10 minutes, then 325° F. for 30 min-
utes). When the filling is set, spread over the top the stijQly
beaten whites of the eggs, into which the tablespoonf ul of sugar
has been folded. Return to the oven and brown the meringue
lightly (300°-350° F. for 8-10 minutes).

PRUNE OR DATE PIE

1 cup cooked and pitted I/2 cup sugar

prunes or dates 2 tablespoons butter

1 lemon, juice and grated rind 1 teaspoon cinnamon or nut-

1 cup water or juice meg, or Y^ cup moist

1 tablespoon flour coconut, if desired

Cook the prunes with the other ingredients until slightly
thickened. Add a little cinnamon or nutmeg, if desired. Bake
between two crusts in a hot oven (450° F. for 10 minutes, then
425° F. for 30 minutes). Prune or date pie is delicious served
with ice-cream or whipped cream. This amount makes a small
pie.

STRAWBERRY PIE

1 cup sugar 1 quart strawberries, washed

2y2 tablespoons flour and hulled

y^ teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons lemon juice

1 recipe Plain Pastry (page 588)

Mix sugar, flour and salt together. Mix with strawberries
and lemon juice. Line pie plate with pastry and fill with fruit
mixture. Adjust top crust, gash to allow for escape of steam.
Bake in a very hot oven (450° F.) for 10 minutes, then reduce
to moderate (350° F.) and bake 30 minutes longer.

No. 1. RAISIN PIE

1 cup seeded raisins 4^ tablespoons flour

2 54 cups water 1 Q^g^ beaten

1 cup sugar 3 tablespoons lemon-juice

y^ teaspoon salt 3 teaspoons grated lemon rind

Mix the sugar and flour, add with the seasonings to the beaten
eggy add the raisins and liquid. Cook in double boiler until

598_

mixture thickens. Cool, then pour into pastry Hned pie plate,
adjust top crust. Bake in a hot oven (450° F.) for 10 minutes
then reduce to 3 50° F. and bake 30 minutes longer.

PUMPKIN CHIFFON PIE

1 tablespoon gelatin l^ teaspoon salt

1^ cup cold water 2 tablespoons butter

1^2 ^^P^ cooked pumpkin ^ cup milk

1 cup brown sugar 3 eggs, separated

2 teaspoons cinnamon 2 tablespoons granulated
y2 teaspoon ginger sugar

y^ teaspoon allspice 1 baked pastry shell

Soften gelatin in cold water for 5 minutes. Combine next
8 ingredients with slightly-beaten q%% yolks in the top of a
double boiler. Cook over water until thickened. Add gelatin
and stir until dissolved. Cool until beginning to congeal.
Beat Q.%% whites, add sugar and beat until stiff. Fold into
pumpkin mixture. Pour into baked pastry shell and chill until
firm. Makes 1 (9 -inch) pie.

CREAM PIE

1 cup hot milk J^ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon corn-starch 2 egg-yolks or 1 whole q%,%

54 cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla

Scald the milk. Mix the corn-starch, sugar and salt and add
hot milk, slowly. Cook twenty minutes over hot water. Beat
the egg-yolks and add slowly, stirring rapidly. Cool and add
vanilla. Put into a baked crust.

VARIATIONS OF CREAM PIE

Banana or Orange Pie — -Slice fruit into baked crust and
cover with cream pie filling. Cover top with meringue made
from two egg-whites and two tablespoons powdered sugar.
Brown in a slow oven (300°-3 50° F.).

Chocolate Pie — ^Use only seven-eighths of a tablespoon of
corn-starch. Add two tablespoons grated chocolate and two
tablespoons sugar just before removing cream pie filling from
the stove. Beat well. Cover with meringue made as in banana
or orange pie above.

Coconut Pie — Add four tablespoons moist coconut to the
cream pie filling and two tablespoons shredded coconut to the

PASTRY AND MERINGUES 599

meringue. Make meringue as directed for banana or orange
pie above.

Nut and Raisin Pie — Stir one cup of chopped nuts or
raisins, or nuts and raisins combined, into the filHng, and
sprinkle a few over the top.

Date Pie — ^Add one cup of chopped dates to the filling.
Cover with meringue as directed for banana or orange pie.

BUTTERSCOTCH PIE

1/4 cups milk 2 eggs

1 cup brown sugar 2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons corn-starch 2 tablespoons powdered sugar

Heat one cup of milk with the sugar until the sugar is free
from lumps. Mix the corn-starch, one-half cup milk and egg-
yolks and add to the hot mixture slowly. Cook in a double
boiler until thick, stirring constantly; then continue to cook
for ten minutes longer, stirring occasionally. Remove from
fire and add butter. When cool, pour into a baked pastry
shell. Cover with meringue made from the stiffly beaten egg-
whites and the powdered sugar. Brown in a slow oven (300°-
350° R).

As AN Attractive Variation, cover the top of the pie with
halves of marshmallows instead of meringue, and brown in the
oven. In this case, use one whole egg instead of two yolks.

No. 1. COTTAGE CHEESE PIE

1/4 cups smooth cottage- 2 eggs

cheese 1 lemon, grated rind and juice

1 cup fine chopped raisins or 2 tablespoons cream

1 cup moist coconut 2 tablespoons butter
Yz cup honey, sirup or sugar

Press the cheese through a ricer, add other ingredients and
mix thoroughly. Turn into paste lined pie-pan and bake (450°
F. ) until the mixture thickens slightly. Lower the heat (325°
F.) and bake until firm.

No. 2 — Omit raisins or coconut and spread preserves or jam
on top after the pie is baked.

6oo

CUSTARD PIE

2 or 3 eggs or 4 to 6 yolks Ys teaspoon cinnamon or

54 cup sugar nutmeg

Yz teaspoon salt 2 cups hot milk

Beat the eggs, add sugar, salt, cinnamon and milk. Mix well
and pour into unbaked crust. Place in a hot oven (450° F.)
for ten minutes to bake sides and bottom of crust. This will
help to prevent a soggy crust. Decrease the heat and cook (at
325° F.) until a silver knife inserted in the center will come
out clean (about thirty minutes). The custard must not boil
at any time. If it does, it will be watery.

COCONUT CUSTARD PIE

2 eggs Y4 teaspoon nutmeg

54 cup sugar 1 cup moist coconut

2 cups hot milk J4 teaspoon salt

Beat the eggs and sugar together until light, then add the
milk, nutmeg, coconut and salt. Line a deep pie-pan with
crust, pour the mixture in and bake at 450° F. for ten minutes.
Then reduce the heat to 325° F. and bake until a silver knife
inserted in the center will come out clean (about thirty min-
utes). These quantities will make one thick pie or two thin
pies.

LEMON CHIFFON PIE

4 eggs, separated 1 tablespoon gelatin

1 cup sugar 34 ^^P ^°^^ ^^^^^

14 cup lemon juice 1 teaspoon grated lemon rind

1^ teaspoon salt 1 baked pastry shell

Whipped Cream

Beat egg yolks until thick and lemon colored; add Yz cup of
sugar, lemon juice and salt. Cook in a double boiler until the
consistency of custard. Soften gelatin in cold water for 5
minutes, then dissolve in hot custard. Add lemon rind. Cool
until mixture begins to thicken. Beat remaining sugar into
stiffly-beaten egg whites and fold into gelatin mixture. Blend
well. Fill baked pastry shell. Chill until firm. Cover with
whipped cream before serving. Makes 1 (9 -inch) pie.

PASTRY AND MERINGUES 601

Variations — Grapefruit Chiffon Pie: Use grapefruit juice
and rind for lemon juice and rind.

Orange Chiffon Pie: Use orange juice for lemon juice,
omit lemon rind and add 1 tablespoon grated orange rind and
1 tablespoon lemon juice.

Lime Chiffon Pie: Use lime juice for lemon juice and
grated lime rind in place of lemon rind.

SOUR CREAM PIE

154 cups sour cream % teaspoon nutmeg

2 eggs 4 tablespoons flour

1 cup sugar ^ cup chopped raisins

54 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon vanilla

54 teaspoon cloves 2 tablespoons sugar

Scald one cup of the cream in a double boiler. Mix egg-
yolks, spices, flour, sugar and remaining cream and add slowly
to the hot mixture. Cook fifteen minutes. Add raisins and
vanilla. When partly cooled, pour into a baked crust. Cover
with meringue made from stijQfly beaten egg-whites and 2 table-
spoons sugar. Brown in a slow oven (300°-350° F.),

PUMPKIN PIE

1/4 cups prepared pumpkin 1 teaspoon salt

34 cup brown sugar 2 eggs

1 teaspoon cinnamon 2 cups milk
}4 teaspoon ginger

Steam or bake fresh pumpkin and put it through a sieve.
Canned pumpkin is ready to use. Add remaining ingredients
in the order given. Turn into a crust-lined pan and bake.
Use a high temperature at first (450° F.) to cook the bottom
and sides of crust. Reduce the temperature and continue cook-
ing at 325° F. until a silver knife inserted in the center will
come out clean. Do not let the pie boil, as that will make it
watery.

A delicious addition is one-half cup of fine chopped nut-
meats. Whipped cream and a tart jelly are also very good with
pumpkin pie.

SQUASH PIE

The yellow, hard-shelled squash makes almost as good pies as
pumpkin and is often easier to obtain. Use the proportions

602

given for pumpkin pie, adding two tablespoons of butter, be-
cause squash is not so oily as pumpkin. Stew, steam or bake the
squash about one hour and be sure that it is as dry as possible.
Baking insures this more easily than does any other method of
cooking.

SWEET POTATO PIE

Pare and boil or bake sweet potatoes, press them through a
sieve and follow the directions given for pumpkin pie, adding
three tablespoons of butter and reducing the sugar to one-
fourth cup unless a very sweet pie is desired. Flavor with nut-
meg.

MINCE PIE

1 recipe Plain Pastry 2 14 cups mincemeat

(page 588)

Line pie plate with pastry. Fill with mincemeat. Cover with
top crust which has several slits in it to allow steam to escape.
Moisten edges of lower crust with cold water, fold upper crust
under lower crust and press edges together with floured fork.
Bake in a very hot oven (450° F.) for 10 minutes, reduce to
3 50° F. and bake 30 to 40 minutes longer or until crust is
browned. Makes 1 (9 -inch) pie. Serve hot or cold.

MINCEMEAT

3 pounds lean beef 2 pounds sugar

Vl pound suet 2 cups cider vinegar

6 pounds sour apples 2 cups molasses

3 pounds seeded raisins 1 tablespoon cloves

2 pounds seedless raisins 1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/^ pound citron, minced 1 teaspoon mace

1 nutmeg, grated 1 tablespoon salt

Cut meat in cubes, cover with water and simmer until tender.
Cool. Force meat, suet and pared and cored apples through a
food chopper. Add remaining ingredients plus 2 cups stock
and simmer 1 hour, stirring frequently. Fill into sterilized jars,
seal and keep in a cool place. Makes about 9 quarts.

PASTRY AND MERINGUES 603

MOCK MINCEMEAT

6 green tomatoes ^ cup minced citron

6 tart apples 2 tablespoons orange rind

54 pound seedless raisins 1 teaspoon salt

54 pound seeded raisins 1 teaspoon cloves

1 tablespoon cinnamon Yz teaspoon allspice

y^ cup fruit juice Yz teaspoon ginger

54 cup cider vinegar 54 teaspoon nutmeg

Force tomatoes and cored apples through a food chopper.
Add remaining ingredients and cook until thick. Fill into steril-
ized jars and seal. Makes about 1 quart.

LEMON MERINGUE PIE

1 cup sugar 1 tablespoon lemon rind

54 cup cornstarch 1 tablespoon butter

54 teaspoon salt 1 baked pastry shell

1 Yz cups boiling water 3 tablespoons confectioners'

2 eggs, separated sugar
Y3 cup lemon juice

Combine sugar, cornstarch and salt in a double boiler. Add
boiling water slowly, stirring constantly. Cook over hot water
until mixture thickens. Beat the q^^ yolks slightly; pour some
of the hot mixture over them and stir vigorously. Return to
the double boiler and cook for 2 minutes. Remove from heat
and add lemon juice, rind and butter; beat well. Cool before
pouring mixture into baked pastry shell. Beat whites stiff, add
confectioners' sugar gradually and beat until well blended.
Spread over filling. Bake in a moderate oven (350° F.) until
the meringue is brown. Cool. Makes 1 (9 -inch) pie.

Variation — Individual Lemon Pies: Fill individual baked
pastry shells with lemon mixture and top with meringue.

BOILED CIDER PIE

I/3 cup rich, boiled cider 1 teaspoon butter

1/^ cup grated maple sugar 2 tgg whites and 2 table-

2 eggs spoons powdered sugar, if

1/^ teaspoon nutmeg meringue is desired.

Yj cup seeded raisins

Boil sugar in cider until dissolved. Add beaten eggs slowly
and stir until thickened. Add butter, raisins and nutmeg.

6o4

Turn into a pan lined with crust. Cover with top crust and
bake in a very hot oven (450° F.) for ten minutes, then re-
duce the heat sHghtly (to 425° F.) and continue cooking for
about thirty minutes longer.

If you prefer, omit the top crust, bake for ten minutes at
450° F., then reduce the heat to 325° F. and bake for thirty
minutes longer. Remove from the oven, cover with a meringue
made of the egg-whites and powdered sugar, and return to a
slow oven (300°-350° F.) to brown.

PASTRY SHELLS

No. 1 — Roll plain or puff paste thin and cut with a biscuit-
cutter. With a smaller cutter remove the centers from one-
half of these circles and lay the rings thus made on the whole
circles, in this way building a wall around the shell. Bake in a
quick oven (400°-450° F.). When these shells are used, small
pans are not required. With puff paste, if a deep shell is de-
sired, remove the centers from two circles and lay both rings on
top of the uncut circle.

No. 2 — Invert patty pans or muffin tins, cover with crust
and bake in a quick oven (400°-450° F.). Patty cases made
in this way make very attractive individual pies, a varia-
tion from the usual large pies. They may be made ahead of
time and warmed in the oven to freshen them. Any pie mix-
ture, fresh or canned fruit, jelly, marmalade, or whipped cream
mixed with nuts and fruits may be used for filling. Do not
fill the shells until just before they are to be served. The
moisture in the filling will soften the crust if they stand too
long. Use the cookie cutter for cover decorations.

APPLE TARTS

5 apples y^ cup granulated sugar

Yz cup cold water 2 tablespoons butter

^ eggs 2 tablespoons powdered sugar
1 lemon

Pare, core and cut up tart apples and cook them in the water
until soft, stewing them very slowly. Beat this sauce smooth,
partly cool, then add beaten egg-yolks, lemon-juice and grated
rind and the granulated sugar, increasing the amount of sugar,

PASTRY AND MERINGUES 605

if desired. Line patty-pans with paste, fill them with the mix-
ture, dot with butter and bake in a hot oven (400°-450° F.).
Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, add the powdered sugar, spread
on top of the tarts and return to the oven to brown. This
amount makes six to eight tarts.

APRICOT AND MARSHMALLOW TARTS

Wash, soak and stew dried apricots. When tender, press
through a sieve. Sweeten to taste. To each cup of pulp add
six marshmallows cut in small bits. Fill baked pastry shells and
decorate with quartered marshmallows.

BANANA ROLL

Peel bananas and cut in halves crosswise. Roll puff or flaky
paste one-eighth of an inch thick. Cut into pieces. Dip each
piece in ice-water and wrap around a half banana. Place on a
baking-sheet and bake in a quick oven (450° F.). Serve with
strawberry sauce. No. 2. See page 583.

BANBURY TARTS

1 cup cHbpped raisins — ^ 1 tablespoon melted butter
1 cup sugar Yg teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons cracker-crumbs 1 lemon, juice and rind
1 eggy beaten

Mix ingredients in order given. Roll puff or flaky paste one-
eighth inch thick and cut in three-inch squares. Put a teaspoon
of the Banbury mixture in the center of each, wet edges of
paste, and fold to form a triangle. Prick several times and
bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven (450° F.). This amount
makes eight to ten tarts.

CHEESE PASTRIES

4 eggs 1 package cream cheese
1 tablespoon cream 34 cup sugar

Beat eggs very light, add remaining ingredients and beat
until well mixed. Line shallow muffin-pans with puff pastry
and put in hot oven (450° F.). After ten minutes, take from
oven, fill with the cheese filling and bake in a slow oven (325°
F.) for thirty minutes.

6o6

No. 1. CHESS PIES

Yz cup butter 3 eggs

1 cup sugar 5 tablespoons sugar

1 cup chopped raisins }4 teaspoon vanilla

Make individual pie shells on inverted muflfin-pans. Prick
before baking to prevent the air from pushing them up and
out of shape.

Cream butter, and gradually add sugar. Add chopped raisins,
one whole egg, and two egg-yolks. Fill shells three-fourths full
and cover with a meringue made from two stilffly beaten egg-
whites, sugar and vanilla. Brown meringue slightly in the oven,
and whde browning stir into the pie mixture once or twice
with a fork. This makes the mixture fluffy.

No. 2.

1 cup milk 2 egg-yolks or 1 whole ^%;g

1 tablespoon corn-starch 1 teaspoon vanilla

54 cup sugar Chocolate fudge frosting

1 teaspoon salt

Bake patty shells by covering the bottoms of muflSn-pans
with plain paste.

Scald the milk. Mix corn-starch, sugar and salt and add hot
milk slowly. Cook 20 minutes over boiling water. Beat the
egg-yolks or the whole t,^% and add slowly, stirring rapidly.
Cool and add vanilla. Fill the patty shells with this mixture.
Cover each with a layer of chocolate fudge one-fourth inch
thick.

COVENTRY TARTLETS

Yz pound cream cheese 54 teaspoon salt

Yz cup sugar Ya teaspoon nutmeg

Ya cup butter 1 tablespoon orange-juice

2 egg-yolks

Mix the cheese with the other ingredients until creamy. Line
a dozen deep molds with puff or flaky paste. Prick and fill
with the cheese mixture. Bake in a hot oven (450° F.) for
ten minutes. Then reduce the heat (to 325° F.) and bake
until golden brown and firm. When done, turn upside down
on a sheet of paper and leave to cool. Spread each tartlet with
apricot or currant marmalade, quince or apple jelly or green-
gage jam.

^..ji^SggeS*^*^

PASTRY AND MERINGUES 607

CRAB APPLE PUFFS

Line muffin-tins with puff or flaky paste; fill with crabapple
jelly, cover with the paste and bake at 450° F. for ten minutes.
Then reduce the heat slightly (to 425° F.) and complete bak-
ing. Remove from the tins while hot. Serve with a sauce made
by melting crabapple jelly.

RAISIN STICKS

1^4 recipe puff or flaky paste Yz teaspoon cinnamon

Seedless raisins 2 tablespoons sugar

Butter

Work into paste as many seedless raisins as it will hold. Add
sugar and cinnamon. Roll out in a strip four inches wide and
one-half inch thick. Sift a little sugar on top and cut cross-
wise in strips three- fourths of an inch wide. Put a bit of butter
on each stick and bake in a very hot oven (450°-500° F.)
until brown.

FRENCH PASTRY SANDWICHES

1 lemon 1 cup sugar 1 egg

Roll puflF paste about one-fourth of an inch thick and cut in
circles. Dip in ice-water and bake. Serve two of these put to-
gether with filling made as follows:

Remove rind and seeds from the lemon, and chop the lemon
fine. Add sugar and egg and beat together thoroughly. Cook
until it thickens. This filling is sufficient for a dozen pastries.

MAMMY'S FRIED PIES

Stew dried apples, peaches or apricots. Drain off all juice,
mash well and sweeten. Roll puff paste one-eighth inch thick
and cut circles three inches in diameter. On one of the circles
place a spoonful of the filling, having a clear margin of the pie-
crust. Moisten this edge all around, place another circle on
top and press the edges firmly together. Fry in deep fat like
doughnuts or saute with a little fat in a hot frying-pan, turn-
ing the pie so that it will brown on both sides. These are good
with fillings of mince meat, or any thick jam or preserve.

6o8

APPLE OR PEACH CAKE

2 cups flour 1 egg

4 teasp(X)ns baking-powder Milk

2 tablespoons butter Yz teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon cinnamon 54 cup molasses

6 to 8 juicy apples or peaches

Make a crust by sifting the flour and baking-powder together,
cutting in the butter and adding salt, beaten egg and enough
sweet milk to make a soft dough. Roll the crust one-half inch
thick and line a greased baking-tin with it. Cover the crust
with quartered apples and sprinkle with a little cinnamon and
molasses. Bake in a rather quick oven (400° F.) till crust and
apples are both a light brown. Sprinkle with sugar, keep in
the oven five minutes more and then serve. This amount
makes one large cak«.

GOOSEBERRY TARTS

Remove stems and tails of green gooseberries, stew slowly
in very little water till the fruit breaks, then sweeten well and
set aside to cool. When cold, turn into pastry shells cover with
a top of puff paste and bake in a very quick oven (450° F.).
Brush each over while hot with beaten egg and set back in the
oven three minutes to glaze. Serve cold.

GRAPE TARTLETS

1 cup grapes J4 cup white grape-juice

1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon corn-starch

Yz cup water 1 cup whipped cream

Cover inverted oval patty-pans with puff or flaky paste. The
paste should be pricked thoroughly so that it will keep its shape.
Bake a delicate brown in a hot oven (400° -450° F.) remove
from the pan, dry the inside and fill with grape mixture made as
follows: Make a sirup by boiling together sugar, water and
grape-juice. Moisten the corn-starch to a smooth paste with
a little cold water and stir in as thickening. Remove seeds from
the grapes and put the grapes into this sirup. Simmer until the
grapes are soft and sirup is thick. At serving time, fill the shells
and top each one with whipped cream and a single uncooked
grape laid open in halves. This recipe makes from six to eight
tartlets.

PASTRY AND MERINGUES 609

LEMON TARTLETS

2 lemons 2 eggs

2 cups sugar 1 cup sponge cake crumbs

Mix the juice and grated rind of the lexnjons with the sugar,
eggs and sponge cake crumbs. Beat until smooth. Put into
twelve patty-pans lined with paste and bake in a hot oven
(400° -450° F.) until the crust is done (15-20 minutes).

MACAROON TARTS

2 eggs 1 lemon

54 cup sugar 1 tablespoon butter

^z dozen dry macaroons

Mix the yolks of the eggs with the sugar and beat until light.
Roll the macaroons, add to the ^%^ and sugar mixture, and
flavor with the grated rind and juice of the lemon. Mix this
with the melted butter. Beat until smooth and then fold in
the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs. Cover inverted patty-
tins with puff or flaky paste, prick thoroughly and bake in a
hot oven (400°-450° F.). When cool, put a spoonful of
marmalade or jelly into each and cover with the macaroon mix-
ture. Place for a moment, or two in the oven until the tops
brown. This amount will make six to eight tarts.

MARMALADE STRIPS

Place a thin layer of crust on an inverted baking-pan. Spread
with thick marmalade or any filling that does not run. Cover
with another thin layer. Cut into strips four inches by one
and a half. Bake in a quick oven (400° -450° F.). When
cool, spread with a thin icing made of confectioners' sugar and
water. Sprinkle with finely chopped nuts.

NAPOLEONS

Divide puff paste into three portions and roll each portion
into a sheet as thin as possible without breaking. Prick
thoroughly and chill. Bake a delicate brown in a hot oven
(400° -450° F.), cool and spread the sheets with cream fill-
ing. Spread the top with confectioners' frosting. When ready
to serve, cut in blocks two inches wide by four inches long.

6io

ORANGE TARTS

2 oranges 1 tablespoon butter

y^r cup sugar IJ/^ tablespoons lemon- juice

1 teaspoon corn-«tarch

^ Beat together the juice of the two oranges and the grated
rind of one, the sugar and melted butter. Add corn-starch
stirred into the lemon-juice and bake in tart shells.

PEACH DUMPLINGS WITH WHIPPED CREAM

Pare freestone peaches, cut hole in ends and carefully remove
stones. Wrap in circular pieces of puff paste rolled to 54 inch
thickness and tuck in the paste where the stones were removed.
Bake in hot oven (450° F.). Before serving, fill holes with
sweetened and flavored whipped cream.

PASTRY PINWHEELS

2 cups flour 2 tablespoons sugar

3 teaspoons baking powder 4 tablespoons shortening
1/^ teaspoon salt 1 Qgg

y^, cup milk

Sift flour, baking powder, salt and sugar together. Cut in
shortening. Beat ^%% and add milk. Add to dry ingredients
to make a soft dough. Turn out on floured board and knead
gently or pat and fold 4-6 times. Roll out J/s inch thick. Cut
with pastry cutter into 3 -inch squares, then diagonally frem
each corner towards center, making cuts about 1-inch long.
Pkce a teaspoonful of jam in center. Fold corners toward
center, pin wheel fashion. Bake on cookie sheet 12 minutes in
hot oven (450° F.).

PEEK-A-BOOS

Cut thin pie-crust in rounds about three inches in diameter.
Prick one-half of the rounds with a fork. In each of the other
ifounds cut three holes, to form a triangle, using a thimble or
some other small cutter. Bake in a quick oven (450° F.).
Spread jelly on the pricked rounds, cover with the perforated
ones, putting in extra jelly through the holes. Sprinkle with
powdered sugar.

PASTRY AND MERINGUES 6il

PINEAPPLE TARTS

Roll puff or flaky paste about one-half inch thick. Cut
rounds with a biscuit-cutter. Dip half of these in ice-water
and place in a greased pan. Cut holes in the centers of the
other circles. Dip the rings in ice-water and place on top of
the rounds in the pan. Put a small piece of butter in each center
and bake in a hot oven (400° -450° F.) fifteen to twenty-
minutes. Before serving, fill the centers with crushed pine-
apple and cover with whipped cream.

PRUNE TART

•c 1 1 . 1 1 tablespoon cream

Fresh or dried prunes i , ^

Sugar ^ ^P ^""^^^

1 tablespoon flour J^ cup cake-cmmbs

3 eegs y^ ^P powdered sugar

^^ % teaspoon vanilla

Line a baking-dish with paste and fill the middle with fresh
or soaked dried prunes that have had the stones removed.
Sprinkle with sugar and the flour and bake in a hot oven (450°
F.) for ten minutes. Then reduce the heat to 325° F. and
bake till the fruit is tender. Pour over it the yolks of the eggs,
mixed with the cream, one-half cup of sugar and the cake-
crumbs. Bake at 325° F. until the custard is set. Cover with
meringue made from the egg-whites, powdered sugar and va-
nilla. Brown and serve.

RASPBERRY OR OTHER FRUIT TURNOVERS

Cut circles of puff or flaky paste three inches in diameter,
having the paste not more than one-eighth of an inch thick.
Moisten half the edge of the circle with cold water and in the
center lay a teaspoon of thick raspberry preserve. Fold one-
half of the circle over the other, making edges meet. Press
closely and mark with a fork dipped in flour. Brush with
beaten egg, prick the top with a fork, and chill before placing
in the oven. Bake fifteen minutes at 450° F. Dust with granu-
lated sugar before serving. If desired, decorate the top of each
with a single preserved berry or a candied cherry. Other fruit
may be used in the same way.

6l2

SWEET RISSOLES

Cut circles of puflf or flaky paste three inches in diameter
from a sheet rolled not more than one- fourth inch thick. Wet
the edges of each circle for one-half inch all around, lay one
teaspoon of any thick stewed fruit or marmalade on one side
of the circle and fold the other half over upon this tintil the
edges meet. Pinch the edges together, brush over with beaten
egg and fry in deep fat at 3 60° -370° F. Dust with sugar and
serve.

PASTRY ROLLOVERS

Cut circles ot thick rolled paste from four to £.ye inches in
diameter. Prick thoroughly, spread with jelly and sprinkle
with finely chopped nuts. Roll closely over and over. Place
on an inverted pan, having the lapped side of the rollover un-
derneath to keep the roll in place. Bake in a quick oven (400°-
450° F.) and brush with milk just before removing from
the oven.

Meringues

A meringue is a very light, delicate preparation made by
beating white of egg until stiff and fine grained. It is sweetened,
and may or may not be flavored otherwise.

Egg Whites for Meringues — Good storage eggs give satis-
factory results, but if eggs are too stale the whites are somewhat
liquid and will not beat up well. Such eggs, therefore, are un-
desirable for meringues, although they may be usable for other
purposes.

Varieties of Sugar for Meringues — ^The sugar for me-
ringues may be powdered, fine granulated or brown. It should
be sifted to free it from lumps and to keep it from being com-
pact.

Proportion of Sugar to Egg White — ^For pie and pud-
ding meringues, use from one to three tablespoons of sugar to
each egg-white. For kisses and meringue shells, use from four
to ^ye tablespoons of sugar to each egg-white.

Methods of Making Meringues

No. 1 — ^Beat the egg-whites until stiff, then add the sugar
gradually, continuing the beating until the mixture is fine
grained and will hold its shape.

PASTRY AND MERINGUES 613

No. 2 — Add the sugar to the unbeaten egg-whites and beat
both together.

With Either Method, if more than three tablespoons of
sugar is to be used for each egg-white, beat two-thirds of it in
as directed, and fold the last third carefully into the mixture.
More beating may make the egg-white fall.

Methods of Using Meringues on Pies, Tarts and
Puddings

These may be used in any of the following ways:

No. 1 — Spread the meringue evenly over the surface, using
a knife or the back of a spoon.

No. 2 — ^Make the surface imeven by spreading in ridges or
by making points.

No. 3 — Make fancy shapes by using a pastry bag and tube»

No. A — Put the meringue on by the spoonful. This is de-
sirable for some puddings, as it is then easy when serving the
pudding to have a nicely shaped meringue for each serving.

No. 5 — ^Bake the meringue for puddings by itself. To do
this, float spoonfuls of the mixture upon hot water in a shal-
low pan. Set the pan in a slow oven (300°-350° F.) and
bake until the meringues are lightly browned. Skim them off
immediately and place upon the prepared pudding.

In Spreading Meringue over the surface of a pie or pud-
ing, be sure that it touches the pastry rim or baking-dish all
around or it will shrink away from it in baking.

Temperatures — ^All meringues should be baked in a slow
oven. For meringues baked on pies or puddings, the correct
temperature is300°-350°F.

Cooking Periods — Bake pie and pudding meringues from
dight to ten minutes, depending upon the thickness of the
meringue. They should rise and be delicately browned.

PIE OR PUDDING MERINGUE

No. 1.

2 egg-whites 54 teaspoon vanilla or Ys tea-

2 tablespoons sugar spoon lemon extract

Few grains of salt

Directions for making are given on pages 612 and 613.

6i4

No. 2.
2 egg-whites

4 tablespoons sugar y^ teaspoon vanilla or y^ tea-

Few grains of salt spoon lenion extraa

Directions for making are given on pages 612 and 613.

No. 3.

2 egg-whites ^ teaspoon vanilla or ^

6 tablespoons sugar teaspoon lemon extract

Few grains of salt

Directions for making are given on pages 612 and 613.

MERINGUE FOR KISSES

(Directions for making kisses and larger meringues, baked
alone, are given on page 499.)

Creole Kisses — ^Fold 1 cup finely crushed nut brittle into
meringue mixture; shape in small mounds.

Meringue Glaces — Shape mixture in large mounds. When
baked, scoop out centers with spoon and place in oven to dry.
Just before serving, fill shells with ice cream, crushed fruit or
cream filling; serve with a dessert sauce (page 579) as desired.

Nut Glaces or Shells — ^Fold 1 cup finely chopped nut
meats into mixture before shaping into large mounds. Use Eng-
lish walnuts, pecans, hickory nuts, toasted blanched almonds,
pistachio nuts or cashews.

Date and Walnut Meringues — ^Fold 1 cup each chopped
dates and broken walnut meats into meringue mixture. With
teaspoon shape in small mounds.

Meringue Nests with Peaches — ^Prepare 1^4 times the
recipe. Cover bottoms of medium-sized muffin pans with un-
glazed paper; do not grease. Pack with meringue, cutting with
knife to remove air pockets. Bake for 1 to 1 54 hours. Remove
while warm and scoop out soft center from underside; then cool.
Just before serving, fill with fresh peaches, sweetened with pow-
dered sugar, and top with a hood of whipped cream. Substitute
other fruits for peaches as desired. Yield: 10 meringues.

FRENCH RECIPES

The Institute secured these excellent recipes directly from French
kitchens. They have been selected for those who are interested in real
French dishes. The secret of French cooking (except for sweets) is the
use of a whif of garlic. Even when it does not appear in the recipe,
bowl, baking dish or food is usually rubbed with it.

PLAIN SOUP

6 tablespoons rice 2 large potatoes

Boiling water 1 large onion

Yz teaspoon salt 2 sprigs water cress

1 medium-sized carrot 1 tablespoon butter
4 medium-sized turnips 2 cups milk

WASH the rice and add to rapidly boiling salted water.
Clean and pare the vegetables, cut them in small pieces
and add to the rice. Boil together for five or ten minutes, add-
ing more water if necessary, then cover the pan and simmer the
mixture gently until it is well cooked, and the water is reduced.
Add the butter and milk--and serve very hot.

GREEN SOUP

2 bunches water cress 2 slices bread

2 diced potatoes 2 tablespoons butter or other

2 hard-cooked egg-yolks fat

Cook the water cress until almost done, then add potatoes
and cook until they are soft. Press through a sieve and add
the puree to the water in which it was cooked. Brown the
bread slightly in one tablespoon of the fat, and cut into small
cubes. Add the minced egg-yolks and the remaining table-
spoon of butter or other fat to the soup, season to taste, add
the cubes of bread and serve hot.

ECONOMICAL VEGETABLE SOUP

Cut equal quantities of any left-over vegetables, such as
carrots, turnips, green peppers, potatoes, celery, string beans,
into small pieces. Brown them in a frying-pan with some but-

615

6i6

ter or other fat, add enough hot water to cover, season with
salt and pepper, and cook until tender. Drain, press through
a sieve and return the pulp to the water in which the vegetables
were boiled. Serve hot with small squares of toasted bread.
Canned vegetables may be used.

CODFISH WITH BROWN SAUCE

2 cups salt codfish 1 clove garlic, chopped

6 tablespoons cooking-oil 1 tablespoon chopped parsley

3 tablespoons flour Few grains nutmeg
IVz cups water i^ teaspoon paprika

Soak codfish in cold water over night. Drain and fry in oil
until slightly browned. Add flour and brown. Add water
and seasonings, and cook slowly for fifteen minutes. Serve fish
on platter surrounded by border of rice or potatoes.

CODFISH A LA BENEDICTINE

1 pound fresh codfish Butter or other fat

4 medium-sized sweet potatoes Juice of 1 lemon

Salt 1 cup cream or milk

Pepper Bread-crumbs

Boil the codfish, drain it and keep it warm.

Pare the sweet potatoes, cook them in salted water or steam
them and let them dry, then mash and add a pinch of pepper,
two tablespoons of butter or other fat, the juice of half a lemon,
and one cup of cream or milk.

Skin the fish and remove the bones. Pound it rather fine;
add a tablespoon of butter or other fat and the juice of half
a lemon. Mix the hot mashed potatoes with this. Add more
milk or cream, enough to make a rough dough. Grease a bak-
ing-dish, and put the dough into it. Cover the top with bread-
crumbs and melted butter. Put small dots of butter here and
there on the top and bake in the oven (350° F .) for twenty
minutes. Serve in the dish in which it was cooked.

FRENCH RECIPES 617

CODFISH, BRANDADE STYLE

1 pound salt codfish 1 cup milk

1 diced potato Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons table oil 3 tablespoons lemon-juice

Soak the codfish over night, then put it in a saucepan of cold
water, add the potato and cook on a quick fire. When it is
on the point of boiling, reduce the heat and cook slowly, stir-
ring constantly with a wooden spoon. Add the oil, drop by
drop, and the milk. When it thickens it has been cooked long
enough. Add the salt, pepper and lemon-juice, and serve hot.

CRAB A LA CREOLE

12 small live hard-shell crabs 4 tablespoons butter or other

or Yz pound crab-meat fat

3 tablespoons lemon-juice 1 teaspoon salt

2 red peppers Y^ teaspoon pepper

Boil the crabs twenty minutes; open and clean them and
reserve the yellow fat. Pour the lemon- juice over the crab-
meat. Melt the butter or other fat and the crab fat in a fry-
ing-pan and add the crab-meat, seasoning, and chopped peppers.
Cook for twenty minutes.

CRABS WITH RICE

15 small crabs 1 tablespoon butter or other

1 cup rice fat

2 or 3 small onions Salt and pepper
2 small carrots

Clean the crabs. Cut ofiF and crush the legs, and cook in
boiling salted water for about an hour. Strain the juice and
pour it over the rice. Let stand for half an hour and then
cook until rice is tender. Cook the chopped onion and carrots
in the fat until slightly browned and then add the crab-meat.
Season with salt and pepper, add the rice and cook together for
several minutes. Serve hot.

This is an old provincial recipe and has a particularly delicious
taste that makes it a favorite.

6i8

SALMON A LA MORNAY

4 cooked potatoes Buttered crumbs

Yz cup Swiss cheese 1 cup medium white sauce

1 egg-yolk 2 cups boiled salmon

Mash the potatoes and line a greased baking-dish with them.
Add the cheese and egg-yolk to the white sauce and pour half
of it over the potatoes. Add the fish and cover it with the
remaining sauce and buttered bread-crumbs. Bake in the oven
(350° F.) for twenty minutes.

FISH FRITTERS

1 pound of small fish Salt and pepper

3 eggs Minced garlic

3 tablespoons flour Minced parsley

Cook the fish and mash them. Beat the yolks of the eggs
until light and thick then add, little by little, the flour, salt,
pepper, the minced garlic and parsley, and the fish. Lastly add
the whites of the eggs beaten to a froth. Drop spoonfuls of
this mixture into hot fat (3 60° -370° F.) and fry to a golden
brown.

CREOLE FISH

1/4 pounds fish Salt and pepper

1 lemon ^ cup tomato-juice

1 teaspoon butter or other Grated lemon-rind
fat 1 small pimiento

Finely chopped onion 6 tablespoons rice

Select a fish with firm flesh, clean the skin and rub well with
a slice of lemon. Melt the fat, add the onion and the fish and
cook to a golden brown. Season with salt and pepper, add the
tomato-juice, a bit of lemon-rind, and the pimiento finely cut.
"While the fish is cooking, cook the rice in boiling salted water
until tender. Make a crown of rice on a platter, place the
fish in the center, pour the gravy over it, and garnish with thin
slices of lemon.

FISH LOAF

2 cups cooked fish 2 e^gs

1 teaspoon salt 1 cup thick white sauce

Drain the fish and tear into small bits. Add the salt, the
beaten egg-yolks, the white sauce, and the beaten egg-whites.

FRENCH RECIPES 619

Pour into a greased baking-dish and bake in a moderate oven
(3 50° -400° F.) for twenty or thirty minutes.

FISH EN COQUILLES

1 cup left-over fish 1 chopped onion

8 mussels or clams Salt and pepper

14 cup bread-crumbs 3 tablespoons butter or other

10 tablespoons milk fat

1 clove garlic Buttered crumbs

1 teaspoon chopped parsley

Chop the fish with the mussels or clams. Add the crumbs
which have been soaked in two tablespoons of milk, and the
garlic, parsley, onions, salt and pepper. Melt the fat and when
hot add the mixture and cook several minutes. Stir in one-
half cup of milk and fill small ramekins or scallop shells. Cover
with buttered crumbs and bake in a moderate oven (3 50° -400°
F.) about fifteen minutes. Serve the dishes on a platter or on
individual plates.

CASSEROLE OF SAUSAGE AND CORN

7 Vienna sausages -^ 11/2 cups cracker crumbs

1 No. 2 can whole grain corn 2 cups medium white sauce
1/^ green pepper

Cut sausages in short lengths and mix with corn and chopped
pepper, season to taste. Make sauce by melting Y^. cup butter,
adding J/4 cup flour and 2 cups milk. In a baking dish place
layers of crumbs, corn mixture and sauce. Top with buttered
crumbs and bake in a moderate oven for 20 minutes. Serves 5.

PORK LIVER LOAF

1 pound pork liver 1 egg

1 onion 1^/^ tablespoons flour

Parsley Salt and pepper

1 cup milk Nutmeg

Chop the liver, onion and parsley together until they are
minced very fine. Add the milk and Qgg^ flour and seasonings.
Mix well, shape into a loaf, place in a baking-pan and bake in
a moderate oven (375° F.) for an hour and a quarter.

620

No. 1. RECHAUFFE

2 cups cold cooked meat Grated cheese

2 cups boiled rice Salt and pepper
Butter or other fat Milk or soup stock

Any pieces of left-over meat may be used for this dish. Cut
the meat in small pieces and moisten with a little milk or stock.
Spread a layer of rice in a greased baking-dish. Put several
small pieces of fat on top and sprinkle with grated cheese.
Season with salt and pepper. Then add a layer of chopped
meat and again add several small pieces of fat and a little
grated cheese. Spread the rest of the rice on the meat, then
put fat and grated cheese over it more abundantly than be-
fore. Put in a moderate oven (3 50° -400° F.) for fifteen or
twenty minutes. Serve very hot.

One can improve this dish by mixing some good tomato
sauce or cream sauce with the meat.

No. 2.

1 large onion 1 cup tomatoes

1 tablespoon fat Left-over pork, beef, mutton

Salt and pepper or chicken

1 Yz cups uncooked rice

Slice the onion and brown it with the fat. Wash the rice
well and add it, with salt and pepper, to the onion. Cook
slowly, stirring constantly until the rice is slightly brown.
Press the tomatoes through a sieve and add to the rice mixture,
together with the meat. Cover with boiling water and sim-
mer for about one-half hour.

No. 3.

3 small onions Yz teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons butter or other Ys teaspoon pepper
fat 3 diced potatoes

1 cup stock Y2 cup carrots

Yz cup gravy Yz cup prune-juice

1 cup left-over meat Yz cup stewed prunes

Slice the onions and fry in the fat until brown. Add the
stock, gravy, meat, salt and pepper and vegetables. Cook
slowly until the vegetables are tender. Add the prune- juice
and boil five minutes. Turn the stew on to a platter and sur-
round with cooked prunes.

FRENCH RECIPES 621

PORK LIVER WITH RICE

1 pound pork liver 2 or 3 sliced carrots
^ pound sliced bacon 2 sliced onions

Yz cup rice Salt and pepper

3 tablespoons chopped parsley

Fry the liver with the bacon until brown, then add the rice
which has been soaked in water for one-half hour. Cover with
hot water or stock, add the parsley, carrots and onions, salt and
pepper. Simmer slowly until tender, about forty minutes.

HAM LOAF

54 pound lean ham 54 pound grated cheese

2 tablespoons flour T 3 eggs

2 cups milk ^ '" Salt and pepper

Cook the ham and chop it fine. Mix the flour with the milk
and cook for a few minutes; then add the ham, cheese, the egg-
yolks slightly beaten, and the stiffly beaten egg-whites. Season
with salt and pepper, pour into a mold, set the mold in a pan
of hot water and bake in a moderate oven (375° F.) until
firm (20-30 minutes). This may be served with or without a
thin white sauce. —

BEEF HASH A LA NORMANDIE

3 onions Yz cup cooked potatoes

1 tablespoon fat Y2 cup meat stock

2 cups cold boiled beef Salt and pepper

Cut the onions into cubes and fry in the fat until brown.
Slice the beef and add to the onions, then add the potatoes and
stock. Season and cook about fifteen minutes.

FRENCH RISSOLES

2 cups chopped veal or 1 cup water

chicken (white meat) 1 tablespoon melted butter or

1 onion other fat

Salt and pepper 4 cups flour
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Chop the onion and add it to the meat. Season with salt and
pepper. Mix this well with the yolk of the e^g.

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Mix together the water, a little salt, the white of the egg
and the melted fat. Pile up the flour, make a well in the center
and pour in, little by little, the liquid mixture. Work the
dough thoroughly until it is smooth, then cut it in slices and
roll out into thin strips with a rolling-pin.

Place the chopped meat here and there on these strips and
season with salt and pepper and a little chopped onion. Fold
the strips in the center and press the edges together. Cut with
a small biscuit-cutter, making small rissoles. Boil these in
slightly salted water for five minutes, remove them from the
water, drain, and put them in the oven (400° F.) for ten
minutes to form a yellow crust on top. Serve hot.

SAUCE FOR COLD MEAT AND FISH

4 tablespoons salad oil Mustard

4 tablespoons cream \ Salt

3 tablespoons vinegar Pepper

Mix the salad oil, cream, vinegar, a little mustard, salt and
pepper. Beat together quickly, with an egg-beater. The sauce
gets white quickly and looks like whipped cream. Soon it
becomes as thick as the best-made mayonnaise. Eggs are not
required, the sauce will not curdle, and can be made quickly.

CAMBRISSON SALAD

1 cup cooked beef 4 anchovies

2 hard-cooked eggs 1 small head lettuce
2 tomatoes

Cut the beef into small pieces, add the sliced eggs and to-
matoes, and the anchovies cut up into small pieces. Serve on
lettuce with French or mayonnaise dressing.

RAGOUT OF DUCK OR CHICKEN

2 tablespoons butter 1 sliced onion

2 tablespoons cooking oil or 1 clove garlic

fat Sprig of parsley

1 duck or chicken 1 cup stock

Salt and pepper 1 tablespoon vinegar

Clean and cut up the duck or chicken. Heat butter with
oil or drippings in a frying-pan. When hot, add the meat.

FRENCH RECIPES 623

Season with salt and pepper and cook until the meat is slightly
brown. Remove the meat and add the onion to the fat in the
pan and cook until brown, then add the garlic and parsley, the
stock and vinegar. Return the meat to the pan and simmer
slowly until tender.

Rabbit, hare, lamb or young partridge may be prepared in
the same way.

CHICKEN VICTORY

1 chicken Thyme

2 tablespoons salad oil Yz bay-leaf

9 onions 3 large tomatoes

Yz pound bacon 1 cup stock

Parsley 54 pound mushrooms

Prepare the chicken for roasting. While it is roasting, heat
the oil in a frying-pan, add three of the onions finely chopped,
and cook until a light brown. Add half the bacon, cut in
small pieces, the parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf. When brown,
add the tomatoes cut in slices, and the stock. When all is
cooked, press through a:-sieve.

In another pan, brown Hghtly the other half of the bacon
cut in strips, the mushrooms and the six remaining onions,
chopped. Cook until everything is tender, then add the pre-
viously made sauce and the gravy from the roasted chicken,
and, if necessary, thicken with a little flour.

Cut up the chicken, arrange pieces in the center of a platter
and pour the sauce, with bacon, mushrooms and onions, around
it. Cut bread \n diamond-shaped pieces, fry in the bacon fat,
and place these also around the chicken.

ASPARAGUS WITH CHEESE

1 bunch asparagus 1 tablespoon butter

54 cup grated cheese }4 teaspoon pepper

1 teaspoon salt

Cut asparagus in pieces and boil in salted water for ten
minutes, then place it in a baking-dish. Sprinkle with the
grated cheese and seasoning, and add the butter in small pieces.
Bake in a moderate oven (3 50° -400° F.).

6j4

RED CABBAGE WITH CHESTNUTS

1 red cabbage Yz cup water

1 tablespoon drippings Salt and pepper

J/2 cup melted grape jelly French chestnuts

Select a nice red cabbage, discard the outer leaves and soak
for a short time in cold water. Drain, and slice in thin shreds.
Melt the fat in a saucepan, add the jelly and the cabbage, the
water, salt and pepper. Cook very slowly until tender.

At the same time, boil some French chestnuts; take off the
skin and add them to the cabbage. Cook all slowly for about
two hours, until the liquid has evaporated.

STUFFED CABBAGE

1 cabbage Spices

Cooking fat 1 cup bread-crumbs

Butter 3 eggs

Parsley 1 chopped onion

Place a thin piece of cheese-cloth in the bottom of a bowl
and lay the large cabbage leaves in it. Chop the middle of
the cabbage fine and saute it in the fat until it is yellow. Re-
move it from the fire, add a little chopped parsley, spices,
bread-crumbs, eggs and onion. Place this mixture inside the
large cabbage leaves, and tie up the cabbage by tying together
the four corners of the cloth.

Place in a pan of boiling salted water and boil until the cab-
bage leaves are tender (about thirty-five minutes). When
done, remove from the cloth, pour a little melted butter over
it, and some fine bread-crumbs, and bake for iiN^ minutes.
Serve with tomato sauce.

EGGPLANT ORIENTAL

2 green peppers 6 ripe tomatoes

2 eggplants 3 teaspoons salt

3 tablespoons cooking oil 1 teaspoon paprika

Remove the seeds from the peppers, and cut the peppers into
small pieces. Pare the eggplants and cut into small pieces. Cook
the eggplant and peppers in the fat until slightly brown, then
add the tomatoes and seasonings and continue the cooking until
the eggplant is done. Serve very hot.

FRENCH RECIPES 625

LEEKS AND POTATOES AU GRATIN

12 leeks Yz cup grated cheese

6 potatoes Bread-crumbs

1 cup medium white sauce Salt and pepper

Cook the leeks in boiling water; boil and slice the potatoes;
arrange the vegetables in a baking-dish, and pour the white
sauce over them. Add the cheese, bread-crumbs and seasoning,
and bake (3 50° F.) for fifteen minutes.

LIMA BEANS, NEUFCHATEL STYLE

2 cups green Lima beans or 1 ^ cup butter or other fat
cup dried Lima beans, 1 Yz cups milk

soaked in water over night 2 egg-yolks

1 teaspoon salt

Cook beans in boiling salted water until almost tender.
Drain; add fat, salt, milk and beaten q^^ yolks. Turn into
casserole and bake in 3 50° F. oven, 20-30 minutes. Stir twice
until beans begin to brown.

MUSHROOMS AU GRATIN

Y2 pound mushrooms Y2 cup bread-crumbs

1 sliced onion I/I6 teaspoon pepper

2 tablespoons cooking oil Y4 teaspoon paprika
2 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon butter

1 cup mushroom stock Y2 teaspoon salt
(made from stems) Juice of 1 lemon

Peel the mushrooms and sprinkle salt over them to extract
the water. Fry the onion in the oil. Add the flour and brown;
add the stock, the pepper, paprika, butter, salt and lemon-
juice and cook the sauce until it is thickened. Drain the mush-
rooms and add them to the sauce. Put into a baking-dish,
sprinkle with crumbs and bake until slightly browned.

POTATO PATTIES

6 potatoes 2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon grated Swiss

Salt _, cheese

Tomato sauce
Boil the potatoes in their jackets; peel and mash them and add
flour, butter, grated cheese and salt. Mix well and shape in

626

round patties, rather thick, making a hole in the middle. Cook
in a well-greased baking-dish, in a hot oven (400° -450° F.).
When they are nicely browned pour over them tomato sauce,
and serve hot in the baking-dish.

POTATOES, PEASANT STYLE

3 cups potatoes 2 tablespoons flour

6 tablespoons bacon fat 2 cups milk

2 cloves garlic 1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons parsley Ys teaspoon pepper
Yz teaspoon paprika

"Wash, pare and cut potatoes in dice. Saute in the bacon fat
until brown. Remove potatoes and fry the chopped garlic
and parsley in the fat remaining in the pan. Add flour, milk
and seasonings, and cook until thickened (about five minutes).
Add potatoes and cook three minutes.

POTATOES, JEANETTE COURRANGELLE STYLE

6 medium-sized potatoes 1 small onion

Left-over meat 1 teaspoon chopped parsley

1 clove garlic Y2 teaspoon salt

Pare the potatoes, bake in the oven until tender, then cut in
halves lengthwise. Scoop out the centers. Chop the meat, gar-
lic, onion and parsley together; add the salt, fill the potatoes
with the mixture and reheat. The pulp removed from the po-
tatoes may be seasoned with salt, pepper, and butter, and baked
in the oven with tomato sauce.

POTATO FRITTERS

3 large potatoes Lemon or orange flavoring

% cup powdered sugar ^ cup flour

Pare the potatoes and boil in salted water. Mash them; add
the sugar and flavor with a little lemon or orange. Allow the
mixture to cool. Then add the flour and knead the dough
until it is very firm.

Spread the dough with a rolling-pin and cut it with a biscuit-
cutter. Fry in deep fat (3 60° -3 70° F.) until brown, then
drain on brown paper.

FRENCH RECIPES 627

POTATOES A L'ARCHIODOISE

4 cups potatoes, sliced thin 1 Yz teaspoons salt

2 cups tomato sauce 1 teaspoon paprika

2 minced garlic cloves

Wash, pare and slice potatoes into a baking-dish. Add other
ingredients and bake (3 50° -400° F.) one hour and thirty min-
utes.

COOKED RADISHES WITH CHEESE

Boil small pink radishes from which the leaves have been
removed. Drain, and cook in a saucepan with butter and
grated cheese until the cheese is melted.

SPINACH WITH CHEESE

1 quart spinach 4 eggs

2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 cups milk

4 tablespoons fat 1 cup Swiss cheese

Yz teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon salt

Wash and chop the spinach. Add the parsley and cook in
the fat for ten minutes. Add well-beaten eggs to the milk,
and pour over the spinach. Add cheese and seasoning; turn
into greased baking-dish and bake in a moderate oven (350°-
400° F.) one-half hour.

SPINACH A LA REINE

Y2 tablespoon chopped onion Salt and pepper

Y2 tablespoon fat 3 Y2. tablespoons grated cheese

1 quart spinach 3 eggs

1 tablespoon flour 6 cooked shrimps

1 cup milk

Cook the onion in the fat, add the spinach, which has been
washed and chopped, and fry quickly. Add flour and milk,
and cook until it thickens. Season with salt and pepper and
add the grated cheese. When it starts to boil remove from the
fire and add well-beaten egg-whites, then the beaten yolks,
turn into a baking-dish and bake in a very hot oven (450°-
500° F.) for ten minutes. Garnish with the shrimps.

628

TOMATOES WITH BROWN SAUCE

4 tomatoes 1^ tablespoons butter or

54 teaspoon salt other fat

Few grains pepper Brown sauce

Plunge tomatoes in boiling water for one minute. Peel,
slice and put in baking-dish. Add seasoning and fat in small
pieces. Bake in a moderate oven (3 50° -400° F.) for ten min-
utes. Add brown sauce and again bake for ten minutes.

STUFFED TOMATOES

8 tomatoes 54 teaspoon salt

5 medium-sized onions Ys teaspoon pepper

4 cloves garlic 5 tablespoons fat

1 piece thyme 2 tablespoons flour

1 bay-leaf 54 pound sausage-meat

Cut off the tops of the tomatoes and remove the pulp. Cook
the pulp and four of the onions chopped fine, with the season-
ings for twenty-five minutes, then add three tablespoons of
the fat mixed with the flour. Cook the mixture for twenty
minutes. Brown the rest of the fat in a pan and fry a chopped
onion in it, add the sausage-meat to it, cook for ten minutes
and add this mixture to the tomato pulp. Stuff the tomatoes
with the mixture and bake (at 350° F.) for twenty-five min-
utes. Serve in the baking-dish.

TURNIP LEAVES

Select the leaves of young turnips, wash carefully and boil
in salted water until tender. Drain, chop very fine, and season
with salt, pepper and butter. Serve hot.

TURNIPS WITH CHEESE

3 medium-sized white or 154 cups milk

yellow turnips 1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons fat - Ys teaspoon pepper

2 tablespoons flour 54 cup grated cheese

Peel the turnips, cut them in slices, and boil them for about
fifteen minutes in boiling salted water. Make a white sauce

FRENCH RECIPES 629

with the fat, flour, milk, salt and pepper. Pour this over the
turnips and sprinkle the grated cheese on top. Bake for ten
minutes and serve hot.

DANDELION OMELET

1 cup dandelion hearts 4 eggs Butter or other fat

Fry the hearts of very white dandelions in butter or other
fat, and mix them with the well-beaten eggs. Cook like an
ordinary French omelet'. The taste resembles an asparagus-tip
omelet.

EGGS FLORENTINE

2 quarts spinach 1 teaspoon salt

4 tablespoons butter 6 hard-cooked eggs

Yz teaspoon pepper Yz cup tomato sauce

'Wash, cook and drain the spinach and add the butter and
the seasonings. Arrange a nest of spinach at each end of a
small platter. Put three eggs in each nest and pour the tomato
sauce between the nests.

EGGS IN FRENCH STYLE

6 eggs Y2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons fat Y2 teaspoon paprika
4 tablespoons flour Ys teaspoon pepper
1 cup milk Bread-crumbs

Boil the eggs for five minutes; make a thick white sauce, us-
ing fat, flour, milk and seasonings. Dip the eggs into the
sauce; cool and dip into fine bread-crumbs. Fry in hot fat
(375° -390° F.) until golden brown. Serve with tomato sauce.

MOLDED EGGS WITH CHEESE

3 eggs Salt

3 cups milk Cayenne

Yz pound grated cheese Parsley

Beat the eggs and milk together and add the grated cheese
and seasonings. Pour the mixture into a greased baking-dish,
set in hot water, and bake at 375 ° F. until it is firm. Turn out
on a platter, and garnish with chopped parsley.

630

MIMOSA EGGS

6 hard-cooked eggs ^ cup boiled ham

Lettuce Mayonnaise

Cut the eggs in halves lengthwise. Remove the yolks and
stuff the whites with chopped ham. Lay the eggs on a plate
lined with lettuce leaves and cover with mayonnaise dressing.
Decorate with sifted yolks of the eggs.

EGGS AU GRATIN

lYz cups milk Yz cup grated Swiss cheese

1 teaspoon salt 4 eggs
Ys teaspoon pepper

Add milk, seasoning and cheese to slightly beaten eggs. Turn
the mixture into a greased baking-dish, set the mold in a pan
of water and bake (375° F.) twenty minutes, or until firm.
Remove from the oven; let stand three minutes and unmold
on a platter. Serve with tomato sauce.

CHEESE OMELET SOUFFLE

2 tablespoons butter or other Salt and pepper

fat Y4 pound grated cheese

4 tablespoons flour 3 eggs

1 cup milk

Put the fat and flour into a pan and when blended add the
hot milk, the salt and pepper, and the grated cheese, stirring
quickly to melt the cheese. When the mixture is getting cool,
add first the yolks, then the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs.
Put the mixture into a greased baking-dish, set in a pan of hot
water and bake in a moderate oven (350° F.) 45 to 50 minutes.
Serve at once.

CHEESE TOAST

1 egg Y4 pound grated cheese

IY2 tablespoons cream Salt and pepper

1J4 tablespoons flour Slices of bread

Mix first five ingredients well together and work the mix-
ture until firm. Spread this mixture on slices of bread two

FRENCH RECIPES 631

and one-half inches thick. Fry in deep hot fat (375°-390° F.)
putting the cheese side down first; then turn over. Remove
when the toast is a golden brown. This dish is quickly made,
delicious and not costly.

GNOCCHI

4 tablespoons butter or other 3 eggs

fat Salt and pepper

1 cup milk 2 ounces grated cheese

2 cups flour 1 cup medium white sauce

Melt the fat in a pan. Put in the milk, bring to a boil, and
add the sifted flour. Stir six to nine minutes. Let it cool
slightly, then work in the eggs, one at a time, beat well, and
season to taste. Add the grated cheese. Put the dough on the
board or on a platter and cut into squares or small fingers.

Drop these into boiling salted water and poach them for
about ten minutes. When they are cooked, drain them and
place in a baking-dish. Pour over them the white sauce to
which may be added, if desired, one ounce of grated cheese,
and put the dish in the oven (250°-350° F.) for fifteen min-
utes. Serve hot. The gnocchi can also be served with tomato
sauce.

EGGS WITH BLACK BUTTER

(Oeufs au Beurre Noir)

2 eggs 1 tablespoon clarified

1 tablespoon wine vinegar butter

1 teaspoon parsley, finely chopped

Multiply the quantities given by the number of persons to be
served. Poach the eggs in water to which a little vinegar has
been added. Remove while still soft and place in a dish in the
oven to finish cooking. Heat the vinegar until it is half its
original quantity; then pour it over the eggs. Simmer the butter
for a few minutes in a pan. Add parsley and continue cooking
until both butter and parsley are browned. Pour over eggs and
serve at once.

632

Cakes and Puddings

FRENCH CAKE

1 cup sugar 3 cups flour

1 egg 1 teaspoon soda

2 teaspoons cocoa 1 tablespoon melted grape

1 teaspoon cinnamon jelly

2 oups milk or cream Nuts

Beat together the sugar and egg, then add the cocoa and
cinnamon and the milk or cream very slowly. Stir in the flour,
then add the soda, dissolved in the jelly. Pour into a loaf -pan
and scatter some nuts over the top. Bake in a moderate oven
(350°-400° F.) about forty minutes.

FONDANT CAKE

% cup cream 2 cups flour

2 eggs Chopped almonds or grated

2 cups powdered sugar lemon-rind

Cover the bottom of a shallow cake-pan with oiled paper.
Blend cream, eggs, sugar and flour and pour into the pan.
Sprinkle some finely chopped almonds or some grated lemon -
rind on top of the cake. Bake in a moderate oven (3 50° -400°
F.) for twenty or thirty minutes. It is preferable served hot.

CHESTNUT DESSERT

2 pounds chestnuts 4 or 5 apples

Yz cup sugar 1 tablespoon butter

54 cup water 1 teaspoon cinnamon

1 tablespoon vanilla 2 tablespoons apricot jelly

Blanch and peel the chestnuts and cook until soft, then rub
through a sieve. Make a sirup of the sugar and water, add
the vanilla and chestnuts and stir until the mixture is smooth.
Place in a ring on a plate. Cook the apples until soft, mash
them, add the butter, cinnamon, and apricot jelly. Put this
mixture in the center of the chestnut ring and garnish with
preserved fruits.

FRENCH RECIPES 633

APPLES BAKED WITH BREAD

Remove the cores from good-sized apples; fill with jam and
butter. Place round slices of stale bread in a baking-dish and
put an apple on each. Pour scalded milk and water over the
bread. Bake until the apples are soft. Serve in the baking-
dish.

MOCHA PUDDING

Yi cup butter or other fat ^ cup cold strong coflfee

1 cup brown sugar 54 teaspoon vanilla

3 egg-yolks 12 lady fingers

Cream the fat and add sugar gradually, then the egg-yolks.
Add coffee little by little, and vanilla. If coffee is added
quickly, the mixture will curdle. Line a mold with the lady
fingers. Turn the mocha mixture into the middle, and chill.
Unmold and serve on a platter.

SOUR MILK PUDDING

1 quart sour milk 1 tablespoon lemon-juice
3 eggs 4 tablespoons granulated

2 tablespoons powdered sugar sugar

Heat the milk slowly until it separates, and drain the whey
from the curd. Add the eggs, powdered sugar, and lemon-
juice to the curd, and beat thoroughly. Caramelize the granu-
lated sugar and pour it into a mold. Add the curd mixture
and bake the pudding for twenty minutes.

MOLDED CHOCOLATE PUDDING

Yz cake sweet chocolate or 3 2 tablespoons gelatin

squares bitter chocolate 2 egg-whites

2 tablespoons sugar Marshmallow whip

3 cups milk Cherries

Melt the chocolate and sugar in the milk in a double boiler.
Add the gelatin, previously soaked in three tablespoons of
water. Pour the mixture into a wet mold and let it stand in
a cool place until the pudding is firm. Turn the pudding on
to a glass dish and garnish it with beaten egg-whites mixed witii
marshmallow whip. Place a cherry in the center of each mound
of garnish.

634

RICE CROWN WITH APRICOTS

Cook rice in milk and put in a buttered ring mold. When
cool, turn into a fruit-dish. Cook dried apricots and place
halves around the top of the crown. Strain the remainder of
the fruit through a fine sieve and pour in the hollow of the
crown. If this dish is desired hot, put the mold in the oven
for a few minutes before trimming it with the apricots.

BREAD PUDDING

6 or 8 slices stale bread Yz cup seeded raisins

Salt 1 quart milk

2 eggs Yz teaspoon cinnamen

54 cup sugar 1 teaspoon lemon extract

Dip slices of stale bread in slightly salted water until they
are soft. Drain and put into a bowl, adding the well-beaten
eggs, the sugar, and the seeded raisins. Scald the milk, flavor
it with the cinnamon and lemon extract, pour it over the bread,
and fill a greased pudding-dish with the mixture. Set in a pan
of hot water and cook in the oven (250°-350° F.) from forty-
five to sixty minutes. Serve with hard sauce.

APPLE MERINGUE PUDDING

Toasted bread Sugar

Hot milk Nutmeg

1 dozen apples 3 eggs

Cover the bottom and sides of a baking-pan with toasted
bread, wet with hot milk. Core the apples and cook them
whole; sweeten with sugar and flavor with nutmeg. Beat the
yolks of the eggs together with a little sugar and pour over the
apples. Put the apples in the baking-pan over the bread, then
cover with the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs. Bake in a
slow oven (300°-350° F.) for a few minutes.

HOT AND COLD BEVERAGES

Coffee

THE standard kinds of coffee on the market today are Mocha,
Java, Bogota, Rio and Santos. Although only about three
per cent of the coffee used in the United States is actually from
Mocha or Java, these names represent grades that are regularly
for sale.

Buying CoflFee

The size of the coffee bean is not important, since that differs
with each variety; the color, however, may be, because this indi-
cates the amount of roasting to which it has been subjected.
A light-colored bean is likely to be mild in flavor; a medium
one, somewhat stronger; while a very dark one may be bitten

If possible, purchase unground coffee and grind it at home
as it is needed. It is much more economical to use finely
ground coffee, because more strength can be obtained from a
given amount than from that which is coarser. If one has
equipment for using pulverized coffee, that will be the most de-
sirable.

Caffein-Free Coffees — Coffees from which most or all
of the caffein has been extracted are on the market. These are
sold imder trade names. Together with cereal beverages they
are used by those who prefer them to coffee or who may find
coffee too stimulating.

Instantaneous Coffees consisting of finely pulvferized
coffee which may be dissolved in boiling water are available
for campers and those who want a quick cup of coffee.

Storing Coffee

As coffee loses its strength when it is exposed to the air, it
should be kept tightly covered, especially after it has been
ground. When coffee has lost its flavor from exposure to the
air, it can be improved by heating the dry coffee in a frying-
pan, taking care not to let it burn. The flavor, however, will
not be so good as the original flavor.

635

636

Methods of Making CofiFee

The most delicious cotfee is made with water just below the
boiling-point. Many of the percolators and drip co£fee-pots on
the market are planned on this principle. Coffee should be
served as soon as it is ready; if it has to stand, the pot should be
tightly covered and the spout should be plugged with cotton
or tissue, so that none of the aroma will be lost.

For weak coffee, tise 1 level tablespoon coffee to 1 cup water.

For medium coffee, use 2 level tablespoons coffee to 1 cup

water.

For strong coffee, use 3 level tablespoons coffee to 1 cup water.

Filtered or Drip Coffee — ^There are many coffee-pots on
the market for making filtered coffee. They all contain some
sort of a strainer which allows the water to drip through the
coffee very slowly. Pulverized coffee should be used for this
method. Place the coffee in the strainer and pour boiling hot
water over it. If the infusion is not strong enough, refilter it.
Serve immediately. Glass tricolators of oven glass ware are
excellent for making filtered coffee, as they hold the heat well.

Boiled Coffee — Put the coffee into the pot with the white
of an egg or some egg-shells and a little cold water and stir all
together thoroughly. Pour boiling water over it and place on
the stove. Cover the spout of the coffee-pot or stuff it with
paper to preserve the aroma. As soon as it boils up, reduce the
heat and allow it to settle. A quarter of a cup of cold water
poured in will cause the coffee to settle more quickly. Do not
allow it to become muddy by careless pouring. To avoid this,
decant it into a hot serving-pot.

Percolated Coffee — ^Use the correct size percolator for the
number to be served. Measure fresh-running cold water into pot
to same number of cups. Measure coffee, finely ground or pul-
verized, into the basket, using 1 heaping tablespoonf ul to cup of
water. Use medium heat or flame until percolating begins, then
lower flame and continue for 8 to 10 minutes, when the liquid
in the glass cap is light brown or deep amber. Serve at once.
Prolonged percolating dissipates the fine aroma and flavor.

AFTER-DINNER COFFEE

The best after-dinner coffee is made with a filter. If really
black coffee is desired, use three tablespoons of finely ground

HOT AND COLD BEVERAGES 637

cotfee to each cup of freshly boiled water. Wet the strainer
in cold water before adding the coffee. Pour the boiling water
slowly upon the coffee, and leave the pot over the heat while
the water is finding its way through the fine grains and absorb-
ing their flavor. When all the liquid has dripped through, the
coffee is done and should be served at once.

VIENNA COFFEE

Make after-dinner coffee and serve in demi-tasses topped with
stiffly whipped cream. Sugar may be used if desired. This
style coflfee is best suited to afternoon or evening service, al-
though it is adapted for after-dinner service as well. Serve
with small cakes.

CAFE AU LAIT

Make medium or strong coffee by the drip or percolator
method and while it is being prepared scald an equal amount
of fresh niilk. Pour the coffee and hot milk together into the
cups in equal amounts, one pot in each hand.

TURKISH COFFEE

Use finely pulverized coffee. Mix one tablespoon of coffee
for each demi-tasse with an equal amount of granulated sugar.
When the water is boiling briskly, add the coffee, and when it
looks frothy remove from the fire. In a moment or two, boil
it up again and repeat a third time. It should be thick and
foamy. Serve at once, without cream, as the last course at din-
ner or luncheon or as a refreshment in the evening with small
cakes. It is too strong to serve in cups any larger than demi-
tasse.

ICED COFFEE

Make coffee of desired strength — it should be fairly strong,
as the ice dilutes it. Cool it and serve in tall glasses with
cracked ice; or pour the hot coffee over cracked ice, in glasses,
adding more ice if needed. Top the glass with whipped cream
or vanilla ice-cream. Cream may be poured on the ice before
the coffee is added, and the coflFee may then be topped with
whipped cream.

638

Cereal Beverages

Grains, roasted so that they produce a brown infusion,-
similar in appearance to coffee, are obtainable in several brands.
These furnish a hot beverage for many who do not care for
or cannot drink coffee or tea. They are excellent breakfast
beverages for children and young people. Directions for pre-
paring them are given on the packages.

Tea

A cup of tea with its delicately fascinating aroma is one of
the most delicious beverages, but probably no other is attended
with such doubtful results, chiefly because the average person
knows little about the selection of teas, and methods of brewing
it are uncertain.

Varieties of Tea

Teas divide into three groups according to the method used
in preparing them for market.

Unoxidized or Unfermented— These include the green
teas, an example of which would be the Japan pan-dried tea.
The leaves are greenish and the tea made from them is light
colored and delicate in flavor.

Partly Oxidized or Partly Fermented — ^These include
the Oolong and Ceylon varieties. The leaves are brown and
the tea made from them is darker in color than that made from
the unfermented leaves and has a characteristic aromatic flavor.

Oxidized or Fermented — These are known as black teas,
such as English Breakfast or China Congou, and India teas such
as Darjeeling and Pekoe. The leaves are black and the beverage
has a rich dark color and a fruit flavor.

During oxidation or fermentation, chemical changes take
place which improve the flavor and reduce the amount of
tannin, the substance which gives tea its astringency. As green
teas are not oxidized, they contain a larger proportion of tannin
than the others and consequently have a more astringent flavor.

Buying Tea

Buy tea that has well-curled leaves and that is free from
stems or dust. In preparing tea for marketing, the leaves are
withered or steamed and then rolled by hand or machinery.

HOT AND COLD BEVERAGES 639

This extracts some of the juice, which dries on the leaf and
makes it more easily soluble when the tea is steeped. The twist
of the leaf due to this rolling helps to secure this dried juice.
Tea with very large leaves, dusty tea or tea in which stems are
found in abundance is of poor quality and even though offered
at a reduced price is bad economy, as a large quantity must be
used to produce even a fair flavor.

Storing Tea

Tea will absorb moisture and odors, and the volatile oil, to
which it owes much of its flavor, will evaporate. Store tea,
therefore, in tightly covered cans and in a cool place.

Best Method of Making Tea

Glass or earthenware pots are by all means to be preferred
in making tea; metal is to be avoided if the best flavor is de-
sired. If two pots are not available, some arrangement by which
the tea leaves can be removed from the pot is necessary. Some
pots come equipped with strainers.

Tea May Be Put in a Tea-Ball or a muslin bag and taken
out when sufficiently steeped. These containers should be not
more than half full, to allow the tea leaves room to swell and
to give off the amount of flavor of which they are capable.

Making Tea in a Cup with the aid of a tea-ball or strainer
is not to be encouraged, as the tea does not steep long enough
and the flavor and aroma are dissipated.

The Quantity of Dry Tea to Use in proportion to water
is not fixed; it depends on the grade of tea and the strength
desired. An old rule reads, "a teaspoon of tea to a cup," and
it is an excellent one to use when trying a new tea; but most
people will find that it is not necessary to use as much as this.
The housewife must experiment with her particular kind, and
suit it to the tastes of the individuals drinking it.

The Method of Making is not so variable. Experts insist
that there is only one way. Freshly boiling water is necessary,
otherwise the tea is flat and insipid. Pour the boiling water on
the required amount of leaves in an earthen or glass pot. If an
infusion is desired with a maximum of aroma and a minimum
of tannin or astringent flavor, allow it to brew for three min-
utes, then remove the tea container or pour off the liquor into
another warm pot and serve at once. More "body" is given by

640

longer brewing, due to extraction of more tannin. Five min-
utes should be sufficient time.

Tea May Be Served With Sugar, cream or milk, lemon,
cloves, candied cherries, orange-peel or rose leaves and mint.
Black teas are best to serve with cream.

ICED TEA

Make tea in the usual way. The clearest iced tea is made
by pouring the hot liquid over cracked ice rather than by cool-
ing it slowly and chilling in the refrigerator. If it is to be
poured over cracked ice, it must of course be made doubly
strong, as the ice dilutes it.

Chocolate and Cocoa

Chocolate is made from cocoa beans that are ground under
pressure. It is sold in the unsweetened form, such as we com-
monly use for a beverage, and also sweetened and flavored. If
chocolate is stored in a warm room, the fat known as cocoa
butter will melt and come to the surface, and when it hardens
will give the chocolate a gray look, because the fat is prac-
tically white. The cake of chocolate, however, is as good to
use as ever. The instantaneous chocolates found on the market
are combinations of cocoa, flavoring, sugar and often milk
powder.

Cocoa is the ground bean from which part of the fat has
been extracted. It should be a rich reddish brown in color.
If it is very dark, it is usually because it has been artificially
colored or made from imperfectly cleansed beans or those of
a poor quality.

Cocoa is a valuable food and is an excellent medium by which
to introduce milk into the diet. Because it contains a stimulant,
it is best to use a minimum of cocoa and a maximum of milk
when giving it to children.

Cocoa preparations, in which cocoa, sugar, powdered milk
and malt are used, make quickly prepared beverages.

The method of making all beverages containing cocoa is
based on the fact that cocoa is rich in starch; therefore cocoa
boiled for £ve minutes has a much better flavor than that which
is made by simply adding it to scalded milk, because cooking
improves the flavor of all starches.

HOT AND COLD BEVERAGES 641

COCOA

2 to 3 tablespoons cocoa 1 to 2 tablespoons sugar

54 cup water Ys teaspoon salt

1 quart milk

Stir cocoa, sugar and either hot or cold water together and
boil over the fire for five minutes; add salt. Scald the milk in
a double boiler; add to the cocoa mixture and stir until well
blended. Or, add cold milk to the cocoa mixture after boiling
for five minutes and let it stand over hot water until hot and
well blended. Beat with a rotary egg-beater to make foamy
before serving. Whipped cream or marshmallows may be served
with cocoa.

CHOCOLATE

2 squares unsweetened 3 tablespoons sugar
chocolate 3 tablespoons water

4 cups milk

Scrape the chocolate fine, mix it with the water and heat
over hot water until the chocolate is melted. Bring the milk
to the scalding point (in a double boiler), add the chocolate
and the sugar, stir untiUissolved and whip with an egg-beater
until the beverage is light and frothy.

ICED CHOCOLATE

Make chocolate or cocoa as usual; cool and serve in tall glasses
with chopped ice, topped with sweetened whipped cream.

RECEPTION CHOCOLATE

1 quart milk Yz cup sugar

Yz cup cocoa Y2 teaspoon vanilla

Y4 cup flour Ys teaspoon salt
1 quart water

Mix dry ingredients and make a smooth paste with some of
the water. Pour on the remainder of the water and boil slowly
for fifteen minutes. Combine with the milk, bring to the boil-
ing-point. Add vanilla. Serve with whipped cream. This is
a very thick, rich cocoa which is improved by standing over
hot water an hour or more.

642

Fruit Beverages

Fruit beverages are particularly valuable in the diet. They
should be served more frequently than any of the others except
milk. The time has passed when we think of them as only
for formal or semi-formal occasions or for the warmest Summer
days. They offer most desirable minerals, are rich in vitamins,
and, because of the sugar used to sweeten them, are fairly high
in fuel value. Most of the fruit-juices have a wholesome laxa-
tive effect. In the Summer they make refreshing drinks;
through the "Winter, the juices that have been bottled during
the warmer months plus the fresh juices available from the
citrus fruits are a source of vitamins and minerals, which may
be so lacking in the diet at that time; and in the Spring they
are most valuable stimulants to the jaded appetite. The tang
of their acid flavor and their attractive color make them wel-
come additions to the table.

Grape-juice, pineapple-juice, tomato-juice concentrated
grapefruit- juice and orange-juice, etc., for making fruit bever-
ages, may be bought in bottles or cans.

Combinations of Fruits — Any combination of fruit-juices
will make a successful beverage provided some of the more tart
juices, such as those from lemons, sour oranges, apple cider or
rhubarb, are present to give the necessary acidity.

Sugar Sirups — A beverage sweetened with a sugar sirup is
better than one to which unmelted sugar has been added. The
sirup gives a smoother texture and is easily mixed through the
whole drink, while sugar has a tendency to sink to the bottom.

The amounts of sugar given in the recipes can not be exact,
as the sugar must vary according to the acidity of the fruit and
individual taste.

Utensils — It is best to use silver, glass or stainless steel in
cutting fruit, or for pressing or stirring the juices. Some metals
give a metallic flavor to the beverage. Utensils of glass, china,
enamel or wood are the most desirable to use for holding the
juices.

Chilling — ^Fruit beverages may be chilled by putting
cracked ice into the beverage or into a bowl in which the con-
tainer holding the beverage is set. Ice cubes made in the trays
of the mechanical refrigerator are excellent for chilling bever-
ages.

HOT AND COLD BEVERAGES 643

SUGAR SIRUP

4 cups sugar 4 cups water

Boil sugar and water together for ten minutes. Pour into
clean hot jars and seal. This sirup may be kept on hand and
used as needed.

No. 1. LEMONADE

6 lemons 3 cups water 1 to 154 cups sugar sirup

Squeeze the juice from the fruit. Mix well with the sirup
and water. Serve very cold.

No. 2.

6 lemons 4 cups water Vz to Y^ cup sugar

Squeeze the juice from the lemons and mix with the water
and sugar. See that the sugar is well dissolved.

VARIATIONS OF LEMONADE

Apple Lemonade — Wash apples and dice, using everything,
including skin and core. Cook with enough water to cover,
strain through a cloth and add one cup sugar for each cup of
juice thus obtained. Dissolve sugar in the juice and cool. Fill
glasses half full of this apple sirup, add to each glass the juice
of half a lemon and fill up with ice and water.

Berry Lemonade — ^To each glass of lemonade add two
tablespoons of crushed fresh or canned berries — ^strawberries,
raspberries, blackberries, loganberries or blueberries. Seedy
fruits should be strained. Garnish with whole berries and
serve with crushed ice.

Currant Lemonade —

1 cup sugar 1 cup water

4 cups currants Lemons

Cook the sugar with the currants until the fruit is soft. Add
the water, strain and cool. Allow one-half lemon and one-half
glass of currant sirup for each serving. Fill glasses with ice
and water.

Egg Lemonade, No. 1 — ^For each glass use one beaten Qgg;

644

add the juice of one lemon and one-fourth teaspoon nutmeg.
Fill glass with chilled water; shake well and serve.

No. 2 — Into a tall glass half full of crushed ice put a spoon-
ful of chopped fruit, pineapple, peaches or crushed berries.
Beat in an egg, add juice of one lemon and sugar to taste. Fill
glass with plain or effervescent water and shake or stir until
very cold.

Lemon Frost — Fill a tall glass one-fourth full of cracked
ice, add lemonade fill the glass three-fourths full and frost the
top with a spoonful of stiffly beaten egg-white sweetened
slightly and flavored with lemon- juice.

Lemon Ginger — For each glass allow two tablespoons ginger
sirup, the juice of one-half lemon and two tablespoons pine-
apple-juice. Fill with cracked ice and water.

Lemon Mint — For each glass squeeze the juice of one lemon
over six or seven crushed mint leaves. Sweeten to taste and add
chopped ice, and water to fill the glass.

Pineapple Lemonade —

1 pineapple 1 cup sugar

1 quart boiling water 1 cup tea infusion

1 lemon

Wash, slice and pare the pineapple, and take out all the eyes.
Prepare the tender part to serve. Put the core, the rind and
the grated rind of the lemon in a kettle and pour on the boil-
ing water. Cover and simmer for half an hour. Strain through
cheese-cloth. Add sugar, tea and lemon-juice. Serve cold. As
some pineapples are much more sour than others, more sugar
may be necessary.

LIMEADE

Limeade is made in the same way as lemonade, using limes
instead of lemons and a little more sweetening. This is even
more refreshing than lemonade in summer.

ORANGEADE

4 oranges 1 to IJ/2 cups sirup

1 lemon 3 cups water

Follow directions for lemonade given on the preceding page.

HOT AND COLD BEVERAGES 645

PINEAPPLE ORANGEADE

4 oranges 1 quart boiling water

1 pineapple Sugar or sirup

Add the juicy parts of the pineapple, shredded, to the orange-
juice. Pour the water over the fruit and sweeten to taste.
Cover and set aside to cool. Strain and serve iced. Blood
oranges will give the mixture an attractive pink color.

No. 1. MIXED FRUIT PUNCH

1 quart blue grape-juice Sugar or sirup to taste

1 pint white grape-juice 2 quarts ginger ale

Juice of 12 oranges 1 pint charged water
Juice of 12 lemons

Mix fruit and sugar or sirup. Add ginger ale and charged
water and serve with chopped ice. This will serve twenty-five
people.

No. 2.

1 Yz cups water "^ Juice of 6 lemons

lYz cups sugar Juice of 6 oranges

1 quart grape- juice 1 pint tea

2 quarts chilled water 1 pint grated pineapple

Boil water and sugar ten minutes. Cool and add other in-
gredients and let stand one hour. Add chilled water and serve
with chipped ice. This will serve twenty-five people.

No. 3.

2 cups water 1 cup white grapes

2 cups sugar 1 cup maraschino cherries

1 cup pineapple Juice of 6 oranges

1 cup strawberries Juice of 6 lemons

1 cup raspberries 2 quarts charged water

1 cup bananas

Boil water and sugar ten minutes. Cool and add crushed
fruit and fruit-juice. Chill. Add charged water just before
serving. This will serve twenty-five people.

646

GINGER ALE PUNCH

Jxjice of 4 lemons Sugar or sirup to taste

1 pint grape- juice 1 quart ginger ale

Mix fruit-juices and sugar or sirup. Just before serving, add
ginger ale.

GINGER PUNCH

1 quart water Y^. cup ginger sirup

1 cup sugar 1 cup orange-juice

y^ cup chopped Canton ^ cup lemon- juice

ginger 1 quart charged water

Boil water, sugar, ginger and ginger sirup for twenty minutes.
Cool. Add fruit- juices and charged water gradually.

GRAPE JUICE PUNCH

1 cup sugar sirup Juice of 1 orange

1 pint water 1 pint grape-juice

Juice of 3 lemons

Mix ingredients in order given. Chill and serve.

LEMON PUNCH

Juice of 6 lemons Yz cup mashed strawberries

Juice of 3 oranges Y2 cup crushed pineapple

1 quart water

Mix fruit-juice, sweeten to taste with sirup, add water and
crushed fruit. Garnish with very thin slices of orange.

PARADISE ISLAND PUNCH

Yz cup sirup Juice of Y2 grapefruit

1 quart pineapple-juice Y2 cup crushed pineapple

Juice of 2 oranges Y2 cup crushed strawberries
Juice of 1 lemon

Proceed as for lemon punch.

RASPBERRY PUNCH

1 lemon 1 pint boiling water

1 cup raspberries 1 cup sugar

1 cup currants 1 cup tea infusion

Crush fruit and strain through a cloth. Without taking the
pulp from the cloth, put it into another dish and pour the

HOT AND COLD BEVERAGES 647

boiling water over it. Drain off, but do not squeeze or it will
be muddy. Add the sugar and stir until it is dissolved. Cool
thoroughly before adding the fruit-juice and tea.

VERANDA PUNCH

Juice of 3 lemons 1 cup tea infusion

Juice of 2 oranges 1 pint ginger ale

Yz cup sugar sirup 1 pint charged water

Mix fruit-juice and sugar sirup. Add the hot tea. Cool,
and, when ready to serve, add ginger ale and charged water.
Thin slices of lemon and orange may be used for a garnish.

LOGANBERRY COCKTAIL

2 cups loganberry-juice 1 cup water
1 cup orange- juice J4 cup sirup
Juice of 1 lemon

Proceed as in lemon punch.

MOCK CLARET CUP

Small stick of cinnamon bark 1 cup currant-juice

3 lemons Sugar sirup

5 oranges "" J4 cup currants

1 pint water 1 cup tea infusion

Boil cinnamon, lemon-rinds and orange-rinds in the water for
ten minutes. Strain, and when cool add other ingredients in-
cluding the juice of the lemons and oranges. Serve in a tall
glass and garnish with currants.

CHILLED GRAPE JUICE

"Wash purple grapes and boil until skin, pulp and seeds
separate. Press through jelly-bag and to every pint of juice
add one-half cup of sugar. Boil for twenty minutes, chill and
serve with shaved ice.

GRAPE JUICE HIGHBALL

Use Niagara grapes. Proceed as for recipe for chilled grape-
juice. Serve in tall glasses half filled with shaved ice and add
an equal quantity of charged water. Lemon is an attractive
addition.

648

GRAPE-JUICE RICKY

For each glass mix the juice of one-half lime with one-half
glass of grape- juice and two tablespoons of sugar. Shake in a
mixer with crushed ice. Fill glass with plain or charged water.

ORANGE LILY

Yz cup white grape-juice 2 tablespoons orange-juice

1 teaspoon sugar

Fill glass half full of shaved ice. Add grape- juice, orange-
juice and sugar and fill with chilled water. Serve with two
straws thrust through a thin slice of orange.

QUAKER DRINK

3 sprigs of mint Juice of 3 oranges

3 cups tea infusion Vz teaspoon powdered ginger

Juice of 3 lemons 2 cups cold water

Bruise mint. Pour the tea over the fruit-juice. Mix ginger
with two tablespoons hot water and the cold water. Mix all
ingredients. Chill and serve.

EGGNOG

1 Q%% 1 tablespoon powdered sugar

Pinch of salt 2 tablespoons fruit-juice

Milk

Add salt to the egg-white and beat to a stiff froth. Add the
sugar, the well-beaten yolk of the q%^ and the fruit- juice. Fill
the glass with ice-cold milk. Sprinkle top with chopped nuts.
The egg-yolk and white may be beaten together rather than
separately, if desired.

MILK SHAKE

Fill a glass two-thirds full of ice-cold milk. Sweeten to taste
and flavor with two tablespoons of fruit- juice, strained pre-
serves, melted jelly or chocolate sirup. Fill the glass with finely
chopped ice. Shake well. In the absence of a regulation
"mixer" pour from one glass into another. When frothy,
sprinkle with cinnamon or nutmeg.

HOT AND COLD BEVERAGES 649

MILK PUNCH

2 tablespoons sugar 1 cup milk

J4 cup charged water J4 teaspoon vanilla

Mix sugar, vanilla and milk. Stir well and add the water.
Pour this mixture from one bowl to another to froth it. Hold
the bowl high as you pour the liquid. When it is frothy, pour
it into a tumbler and serve.

ICE CREAM PUFF

Break an egg into a mixing-glass and add four tablespoons of
any preferred fruit sirup and a serving of vanilla ice-cream.
Shake until well mixed, fill with carbonated water and sprinkle
with nutmeg. Extra ice-cream may be added just before serv-
ing.

ORANGE MILK SHAKE

2y2 cups orange juice l/^ teaspoon salt

iy2 cups grapefruit juice y^ teaspoon almond extraa

1 cup evaporated milk y^ cup sugar

1 cup water • 1 cup cracked ice

Combine all ingredients as listed, in a shaker; shake until well
mixed.

Coffee-Egg Milk Shake — Use 3 cups cold strong coffee, 3
eggs, well beaten, 6 cups chilled milk, 6 tablespoons cream,
sugar to taste and dash of salt. Add enough iced carbonated
water to each glass to foam mixture to the top.

Coffee-Chocolate Milk Shake — ^Use 1 Yz cups cold strong
coffee, ^ cup chocolate sauce (page 580) and 7 cups milk. Top
each glass with 1 tablespoon whipped cream, if desired.

Iced Coffee Shake — Use 3 cups cold strong coffee, 3 drops
almond extract, 2 cups chilled milk, 2 cups Apollinaris water
and powdered sugar to taste. Top each glass with sweetened
whipped cream and dust with cinnamon.

For additional beverage recipes including wines see pages 737
to 757.

FOODS AND BEVERAGES
FOR INVALIDS

A DOCTOR'S advice is necessary in planning the diet for
an invalid, as each case must be considered individually.
The following general suggestions are intended to help the
housewife who, in addition to her other work, has the duty of
ministering to the needs of the sick and convalescent.

The Proper Selection and Preparation of food for an
invalid is important, but the best cooked and most palatable
food may be spoiled in the serving. When possible, remove
all bottles and suggestions of medicine from the room. Use a
light tray, and serve everything as nicely as possible — the hot
things really hot; the cold dishes cold, not lukewarm. In ill-
ness, even more than in health, care in serving is imperative, for
appetite may be poor.

Meals Should be Served at Regular Intervals, and al-
though the patient should not be consulted about the food to
be brought J:o him, his likes and dislikes should be considered
as far as possible.

Before Serving the Meal, be sure that the patient is ready
for it, with hands and face washed ; and that provision has been
made for placing the tray where it will be convenient for him
or his attendant to reach it. Special raised trays or bedside
tables may be bought; or a rest may be improvised by placing a
block of wood or a bundle of magazines on each side of the
patient so that he will not have to bear the weight of the tray
on his knees.

The Tray Should be Covered with a clean napkin oi^tray
cover, and the dishes and serving should be very dainty. A
flower or sprig of green will often take an invalid's mind from
the food, and the attractiveness of the whole will tempt him to
eat what would otherwise remain untouched. Serving the meal
in courses will add to the interest. Place the courses on the
tray in the order in which they are to be eaten and within easy
reach of the patient. Do not serve too much of any one food.
Invalids will often take liquid diet through a straw and enjoy
it after the glass has become tiresome.

650

FOODS AND BEVERAGES FOR INVALIDS 651

Remove the Tray and Dishes as soon as the patient has
finished eating. In contagious diseases, sterilize everything used
in the sick-room by boiling in water for ten minutes.

Milk and Egg Dishes

MILK

Hot — Heat the milk quickly over direct heat, stirring con-
stantly, and serve at once. Heat the cup before pouring in
the milk, and cover it with a saucer for carrying to the sick-
room. Hot milk is a mild stimulant in cases of extreme fatigue.
Cooked milk will agree with many persons who cannot take
raw milk.

Diluted — ^If milk disagrees with a patient it may sometimes
be made more digestible by diluting it with barley water, oat-
meal water or any good carbonated water, in the proportions
of two tablespoons or more of the water to one cup of milk.

Albumenized —

1 egg-white Yz cup cold milk

2 tablespoons cracked ice Pinch of salt

Beat the egg-white with a fork or egg-beater, add ice, milk
and salt. Beat or shake enough to mix well.

Artificial Buttermilk.

1 quart skimmed milk 54 cup water

1 buttermilk tablet

Pasteurize the milk (See Index) and cool it to body tempera-
ture. Dissolve the tablet in the water, and add this to the milk.
Mix thoroughly and stand covered in a warm place for twenty-
four hours, or until a solid curd is formed. Keep in a cool place
until needed. Beat smooth with a rotary egg-beater or shake
thoroughly just before serving.

Kumiss.

1 quart milk 1]^ tablespoons sugar

J4 yeast-cake

Heat the milk to 75° F., add the sugar and the yeast-cake
dissolved in lukewarm water. Fill sterilized bottles to within
one and one-half inches of top, cork tightly and shake. It

652

may be necessary to tie the corks on the bottles, as the yeast
causes the milk to ferment and if gas is produced in considerable
amounts the corks are forced out. Invert the bottles and place
where they can remain at a temperature of about 70° F. for
ten hours. Place in the refrigerator inverted and let stand for
twenty-four hours, shaking now and then to prevent the cream
from forming in the mouth of the bottle. If left standing too
long, it becomes less palatable. It should look like thick foamy
cream when ready to serve. In opening the bottle care must
be taken not to let the milk foam over.

WHEY

"Whey is the water solution of milk sugar, salts and minerals
which forms the basis of fresh whole milk and which is sepa-
rated from the curd and fat as follows:

^ rennet tablet 1 cup fresh whole milk

1 tablespoon cold water

Dissolve rennet tablet in water. Warm milk slowly, stirring
until lukewarm — not hot (120° F.). A few drops of milk on
the inside of the wrist should feel comfortably warm. Remove
milk from stove. Add dissolved rennet tablet and stir quickly
for a few seconds, then let stand unmoved until firm. While
warm, cut curd gently into coarse pieces to separate from the
whey and strain carefully through fine bleached muslin (72 to
76 mesh). Sweeten and flavor if desired. Serve as the doctor
orders,

With Lemon- Juice —

1 cup hot milk 2 teaspoons sugar

2 tablespoons lemon-juice

Add lemon-juice to hot milk and let stand over hot water
until the milk separates. Strain through a double thickness of
cheese-cloth and add the sugar to the whey.

With Orange-Juice — Substitute orange-juice for lemon-
juice and use one-half the sugar in the recipe for lemon whey.

EGGS

Steamed — Put a piece of butter in an oatmeal dish, remove
the tea-kettle lid and set the dish over the boiling water. When
the butter is melted, break an Qgg into the dish, and cover with

FOODS AND BEVERAGES FOR INVALIDS 653

the tea-kettle cover. The egg will cook in a few minutes, will
keep hot, and may be served in the same dish. This is also an
easy way of scrambling eggs without changing the dish.

For Other Ways of Serving Eggs to Invalids look in the
index for the following recipes: Coddled Eggs, Poached or
Dropped Eggs, Battered or Scrambled Eggs, Shirred Eggs, Baked
Eggs, Egg Timbales, Egg Toast, Scalloped Eggs, Creamed Eggs,
Eggs a la Goldenrod, Plain Puffy Omelet, Plain French Omelet,
Cream Omelet, Oyster Omelet, and others, depending on the
condition of the patient to be served.

EGG DRINKS

Albumen Water — No. 1.

1 egg-white Sugar

1 cup ice-water 1 tablespoon lemon-juice

Stir the white of an egg with a sliver fork, and add the water.
Serve plain or sweeten and flavor with lemon- juice. Mix well.

No. 2.

2 teaspoons sugar 1 egg-white
Yz cup warm water ^ Pinch of salt

2 tablespoons lemon-juice or Crushed ice

3 tablespoons orange-juice

Dissolve the sugar in the warm water. Add lemon-juice.
Beat egg-white enough so that it will mix; add salt and put
with remaining ingredients. Shake or beat the mixture. Strain,
and serve with cracked ice.

See Index for Egg Lemonade, Egg Orangeade, Eggnog, etc.

Cereal Dishes

In preparing any of the grain foods for an invalid, take
special care to see that they are well cooked. In some cases the
cereal may be put through a sieve or puree strainer. Wliole-
grain foods are important laxative articles of diet.

BANANA GRUEL
Stir banana meal into hot milk, and add sugar to taste.

654

OATMEAL PREPARATIONS

For oatmeal gruel and oatmeal water when the prepared oat
flour is used, follow the directions for barley gruel and water.
They may, however, be made from either coarse oatmeal or
rolled oats. If the latter are used, they should be prepared as
described in the chapter on cereals, (See Index) using the fol-
lowing proportions:

Oatmeal Gruel —

y^ cup rolled oats or J/3 cup coarse oatmeal 1 Yz cups water

Oatmeal Water —

1 Yz tablespoons rolled oats or 2 tablespoons coarse oatmeal
2 cups water

Oatmeal Jelly —

4 tablespoons rolled oats or 5 Y2 tablespoons coarse oatmeal
1/4 cups water

BARLEY PREPARATIONS

Barley Gruel, No. 1.

1 tablespoon barley flour 1 Y2 cups boiling water
IY2 tablespoons cold water Salt

Mix the flour with the cold water. Add the boiling water
gradually, stirring constantly, and boil hard for thirty minutes.
Salt to taste. Strain through a very fine sieve.

No. 2^Use the same ingredients as for No. 1 but decrease
the boiling water to one cup and add one-half cup of hot milk
to the gruel when serving.

Barley Water, No. 1.

2 teaspoons barley flour 2 cups boiling water

1 tablespoon cold water

Follow directions for barley gruel.

No. 2.

2 tablespoons pearl barley 1 quart cold water

Wash the barley, and soak for five hours or over night in the
cold water. Cook until it has boiled down to a pint. Strain
twice.

FOODS AND BEVERAGES FOR INVALIDS 655

Barley Jelly —

2 tablespoons barley flour 2 cups boiling water

4 tablespoons cold water

Follow directions for barley gruel. Strain into a mold, chill,
and serve with sugar and cream.

INDIAN-MEAL GRUEL

2 tablespoons corn-meal 1 quart boiling water

1 tablespoon flour Yz teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons cold water

Mix the meal and flour with the cold water, rub smooth, and
stir the paste into the boiling water. Stir well, and when the
gruel boils, lower the heat so it will simmer gently for two
hours. Add the salt, cook for one-half hour longer, and serve
with cream or milk.

PANADA

Boiling water 2 soda or graham crackers

Place the crackers in a bowl, and add just enough boiling
water to soak them well. Set the bowl in a vessel of boiling
water, and let it remain twenty or thirty minutes, until the
crackers are quite clear, but not broken. Lift them out care-
fully without breaking and lay them on a hot saucer. Salt if
necessary. Serve very hot with sugar and cream.

RICE JELLY

2 tablespoons rice flour Salt and sugar

1 cup boiling water Cinnamon or lemon-juice, if

Cold water desired

Mix the rice flour with enough cold water to make a thin
paste, and then add the boiling water. Sweeten and salt to
taste, and boil until the rice flour is transparent. Add a little
cinnamon or lemon-juice as flavoring, if desired.

Wet a mold with cold water, pour in the jelly, and when
cold serve with milk or cream and sugar.

656

FLAXSEED LEMONADE

4 tablespoons whole flaxseed 4 tablespoons sugar

1 quart boiling water Juice of 2 lemons

Simmer the flaxseed in the water for an hour or more. Strain,
add sugar and lemon- juice, and serve hot.

CHICKEN BROTH

1 fowl (3 pounds) 2 tablespoons sago or tapioca

2 quarts cold water or rice
1 teaspoon salt

Wash the chicken and remove all the skin and fat. Cut It
into small pieces, crack the bones well, and place it in a kettle
with two quarts of cold water and let stand one-half hour. Set
the kettle on the fire in a slow heat, add the rice, and gradually
bring the water to the boiling-point. Keep it simmering for
three hours, with the kettle tightly covered. Season with salt,
skim off fat, strain off the broth, and serve. If made the day
before using, the soup may be allowed to cool, when fat may
be more easily removed.

BEEF JUICE

Broil one-half pound round of beef, cut about four inches
square and an inch thick, until both sides are browned and the
meat is well warmed through to start the juices. Two minutes
should be sufficient. Sprinkle with salt, cut in pieces, place in a
presser, lemon-squeezer or potato-ricer and squeeze out all the
juice. One-half pound of beef yields two ounces or four table-
spoons of juice.

Sufficient juice for two servings is generally prepared at one
time. Warm the second serving over boiling water, stirring the
juice constantly until it is a little more than lukewarm and
serve at once.

Beef Tea — Place 1 pound lean, ground beef in a fruit jar.
Add 1 pint cold water, and let stand 1 hour. Place jar in a
saucepan of cold water with a cloth on bottom of pan under
the jar, and heat water slowly to 140° F. Do not let it boil.
Contint^e two hours, then slowly increase heat until beef tea
turns a deep chocolate color. Add J/z teaspoon salt.

HIGH ALTITUDE COOKING

'T^HE boiling point of water is called 212° F. but actually that
"*■ temperature is reached only at sea level. For every 500 feet
ascent tlie boiling point drops one degree. As altitudes rise in
this country from sea level to 12,000 feet, food boils at 202° F.
in Denver, and 1 9 8 ° F. in Laramie.

Simple boiling processes are carried on by the use of a pressure
cooker or a sealed steamer as indicated under vegetable cookery
(pages 386 to 388). In the baking of meats and vegetables oven
heat can be regulated without regard to altitude. Above 7,000
feet, additional time must be allowed. The little book called
"Vegetable Cookery at High Altitudes" by Emma J. Thiessen
of the University of Wyoming will be found valuable.

Candy and frostings can no longer be tested by temperature
because the soft-ball stage, which is 236° F. up to 1,000 feet, is
226° F. at 3,000 feet, 223° F. at 5,000 feet, and 220° F. at
7,000 feet. The other stages also occur at lower temperatures
as the altitude rises. Testing consistency of the sirup by the
finger or the saccharometer is the way out.

High altitude does the greatest damage to the baking proc-
esses, particularly to those baked foods containing sugar, non-
yeast leavening, and shortening.

Marjorie W. Peterson of Colorado State College has made a
careful study entitled "Baking Quick Breads and Cakes at High
Altitudes," giving recipes for sea level with their necessary varia-
tions for 3,000 to 11,180 feet. Miss Peterson calls attention to
some general requirements for all high levels. Cake and bread
flours should be used exactly as indicated and not interchanged.
Reductions in the amounts of sugar and baking powder as well
as fat must also be made as the altitude rises, and while these
bear a certain ratio per thousand feet, they are not regular.
The modern woman living in high altitudes would do well to
buy Miss Peterson's booklet.

657

CANNING, PRESERVING AND
JELLY MAKING

TO Preserve Foods by Canning we must do two things.
First, we must provide sufficient heat to destroy all mi-
crospic life that will cause spoilage in food; and, second, we
must provide a perfect seal vhich will prevent the re-entrance
of micro-organisms. These problems of preventing spoilage
have been practically solved by the improved methods of
canning which are explained below.

METHODS OF CANNING

The open-kettle or cooked-in-the-kettle and the cold-pack or
cooked-in-the-can are the two methods of canning now com-
monly used.

Description of the Open Kettle Method

The open-kettle method is so called because the food to be
canned is completely cooked in a kettle before it is poured into
the jar. This method involves more risk than the cold-pack,
because, unless the jar, the cover, the rubber, and all the utensils
that come in contact with the food have been thoroughly steril-
ized by being boiled for several minutes before the jars are filled,
and unless the work is carefully done, there is always the risk
that the canned food will be infected and that it may spoil
after the jar has been sealed. For some products, however,
such as thick preserves and conserves, for which more intense
heat than that of boiling water is needed, the open-kettle method
must still be used. Many persons, too, prefer the open-kettle
method for canning strawberries and tomatoes. It is not ad-
visable to use it for non-acid vegetables or meats.

Description of the Cold-Pack Method

In the cold-pack method the uncooked or partly cooked
food is packed in the jars, covered with water, sirup, or ice;
and both the jar and its contents are heated simultaneously by
boiling water or steam. This method is recommended for most

658

CANNING, PRESERVING AND JELLY IvIAKING 659

fruits and all vegetables and meats, because it is not only a safer,
easier way of canning most foods than the old open-kettle
method, but also because the product retains much of its natural
flavor and color and more of its nutritive value.

Blanching for the Cold-Pack Method

Blanching is a preliminary step sometimes used in the cold-
pack method of canning. It is no longer considered necessary
to blanch all vegetables, and whenever this step can be elimi-
nated it saves time and a certain loss of food substance. To-
miatoes and some fruits are blanched to make it easy to remove
the skins. Blanching may be done with either boiling water or
steam.

Vegetables That Should be Blanched

The following vegetables are the only ones which must be
blanched before canning:

Greens — ^All greens should be blanched about five minutes to re-
duce the bulk.

Corn — In order to prevent loss of the milk, corn should be
blanched on the cob until it is firm to the touch and until the milk
does not ooze out when the corn is pricked with a fork.

Beets, Carrots, Parsnips — Beets, carrots and parsnips should be
blanched until the skins will slip off easily.

When Boiling Water is Used, place the fruit or the vege-
tables in a piece of cheese-cloth or in a crate; lower this entirely
under the water, and heat for the required number of minutes.
Blanch only a small quantity of the product at a time in order
to keep the water as near the boiling point as possible all during
the process.

For Blanching in Steam place the food in some perforated
utensil or in a piece of cheese-cloth and suspend it in a tightly
closed steamer. Greens should be blanched until no further
shrinkage will occur. Blanching in steam generally requires a
longer time than does blanching in boiling water. The steam
must penetrate to all parts of the mass. For this reason do not
crowd the fruits or vegetables, particularly when you are blanch-
ing greens.

The Cold Dip Which Follows Blanching rapidly chills
the outside of the blanched fruit or vegetables and is accom-
plished by plunging them into cold water. "While the food
should be cooled sufficiently to make it easy to handle, do not
allow it to remain in the cold water too long.

66o

Cooking or Processing in the Cold-Pack Method

Food to be canned by the cold-pack method is usually heated
or, as it is called, processed in one of two ways.

1 — Continuous boiling in a hot-water bath (at 212° F.).
a — For a long period of time.

b — For a shorter period of time, if a small amount of lemon-
juice or vinegar is used.

2 — Cooking at a high temperature in steam under pressure.

"While a continuous period of cooking in boiling water may be
successful for vegetables and meats, if the period is long enough,
it is not generally considered as effective in destroying the organ-
isms that cause spoilage as cooking in steam under pressure. As
a precaution against botulinus poisoning, vegetables canned in
the hot-water bath should be boiled after being opened, before
they are used.

Acid as an Aid in Canning by the Cold-Pack Method

If a steam pressure cooker is not available, the use of a food
acid (lemon- juice or vinegar) with foods processed in a hot-
water bath increases the certainty of success in canning corn,
peas, beans, asparagus and greens. The acid flavor is scarcely
noticeable and to most persons not objectionable.

Quantity of Acid to Use — For each pint jar of vegetables,
use one tablespoon of vinegar or lemon-juice and one teaspoon
of salt. Boil the jars of vegetables in the hot- water bath for
one and one-half hours, according to the directions given farther
along in this chapter for each vegetable.

General Directions for Canning Vegetables by the
Cold-Pack Method

1. Choose vegetables that are young and that have made a quick
growth.

2. Do not use very dirty vegetables as more micro-organisms are
present on these than on clean vegetables.

3. Do not attempt to handle too large a quantity of vegetables at
once, especially in hot weather. The various steps in the canning
process must be followed in rapid succession to prevent loss of flavor
caused by what is known as flat sour, and large quantities can not be
handled rapidly.

4. Can vegetables as soon as possible after they have been picked.
This is particularly necessary with asparagus, peas, beans and corn.

CANNING, PRESERVING AND JELLY MAKING 66i

5. Clean the vegetables thoroughly and prepare them as for cooking.

6. If there is much variation in size, grade the vegetables so that
the contents of each jar will be as nearly uniform as possible.

7. Blanch the vegetables, if necessary (Page 659). The blanch-
ing or scalding should be continued just long enough to make the
vegetables sufficiently flexible to pack easily or to loosen the skins so
that they can be quickly scraped off. Spinach and certain other deli-
cately flavored greens should be blanched in steam instead of in boil-
ing water, until they are thoroughly shrunken.

8. Chill the outside of the vegetables by immersing them in a
large receptacle of cold water and removing them immediately. Do
not attempt to cool the vegetables thoroughly by this cold dip.

9. Pack the vegetables in clean, tested jars to within one-half inch
of the top. Corn should be packed only to within one inch of the
top. Shake the jars to get a good pack, but do not press the vegetables
down with a spoon.

10. Add from one-half to one teaspoon of salt to each pint jar.
Some vegetables, such as peas, corn, beets and pumpkin, are improved
by the addition of a small amount of sugar as well.

11. Fill the jars with boiling water to within one-fourth inch of
the top. Place a new rubber on each jar, adjust the cover, and partly
seal it by adjusting only the upper clamp or by slightly screwing the
Hd.

12-A. If the hot-water bath is used, place the jars on the rack in the
container and add water. The boiling water should cover the tops
of the jars to the depth of ~about one inch.

In using the hot-water bath do not begin to time the heating until
the water boils over the jars. Keep the water boiling during the entire
period. (Time-table on page 665.)

B. If the pressure cooker is used, place the cooker on the stove and
put in the rack before placing the jars in the cooker. Add sufficient
water to come up to the rack but not to cover it. Let the water get
warm. Place the jars in the crate and lower it into the kettle. If
two tiers of jars are to be put in the cooker, place a rack between
them. Adjust the cover and place all the bolts in position; then be-
gin screwing them down by hand, in rotation. Do not finish screw-
ing down one bolt before starting the others. A better connection is
obtained by following the right method. Finish tightening the nuts
with a wrench.

Open the pet-cock and allow it to stand until a fine stream of
steam appears; then close it. Shortly after this, the pointer on the
dial will begin to move or register pressure. As soon as the desired
pressure is reached, lower the heat and keep the steam at that pressure
for the required length of time. See table on page 664.

When the required time is up, turn out the heat or remove the
cooker from the fire. When the pointer on the dial of the cooker

662

registers zero, open the pet-cock gradually and allow the steam to
escape. If the pet-cock is opened before the pressure is down to zero,
the liquid escapes from the jars and there is danger of forcing out
the rubbers.

13. Remove the jars from the hot-water bath or cooker, seal them,
and invert while they are cooling, so that if there is a leakage in the
jar it may appear in time. Avoid a draft on the jars, but cool them
as quickly as possible, especially if the vegetables are corn, beans,
asparagus or greens.

14. Wash the jars, label them, and store in a cool place.

General Directions for Canning Fruit by the
Cold-Pack Method

1. Select firm, well-grown, but not overripe fruit.

2. If possible, can fruit on the day that it is picked.

3. Wash, pare, and prepare the fruit, removing all bruised or de-
cayed parts.

4. If there is much variation in size, sort the fruit so that the con-
tents of each jar will be as nearly uniform as possible.

5. Blanch the fruit if necessary in boiling water, a small quantity
at a time, until the skin slips off.

6. Chill the outside of the blanched fruit by immersing it for a
brief period in a large receptacle of cold water. Do not attempt to
cool the fruit thoroughly by this cold dip.

7. Pack the fruit firnily in clean, tested jars to within one-half inch
of the top.

8. Fill the jars with boiling sirup or hot water.

9. Place a new rubber on each jar, adjust the cover of the jar, and
partly seal it by adjusting only the upper clamp or by slightly screw-
ing the lid. "^

10. Cook for the required length of time in the hot-water bath, or,
in the case of hard pears, or pineapple, in the pressure cooker. (See
tables pages 664-665.) Be sure to have the jars completely immersed
in water.

General Directions for Canning Meat by the
Cold-Pack Method

Continuous heating is necessary in canning meats. Most
authorities agree that meat should be canned only under steam-
pressure.

The various parts of beef, veal, pork and mutton may be
canned successfully, as may chicken and rabbit. Rabbit is
canned on the bone.

1. Select meat in perfect condition. Tough cuts lend themselves
well to canning.

CANNING, PRESERVING AND JELLY MAKING 663

2. Trim off dark-colored or strong-smelling portions and siirplus
fat. If mutton is being canned, be careful to remove the thin outer
skin, which has a strong flavor. Wipe the meat well with a damp
cloth. The bones may be used for making soup stock.

3. Free the meat from bones and cut it into pieces suitable for
packing in the jars.

4. Pack the raw meat solidly into clean glass jars, filling them to
within one inch of the top.

5. Add from one-half to one teaspoon of salt for each pint of meat,
and other seasoning, such as chopped onion, celery leaves, or bay-
leaf, if desired. Add no water.

6. Adjust the rubbers and the covers, and partly seal the jar.

7. Heat the jars under ten pounds of pressure for one and three-
quarters hours. If a water-bath is used, boil for five hours.

Avoid These Mistakes in Canning Any Food

If there is an empty space in the jar it may be caused by any
one of these conditions:

1. The jar may have been packed too loosely.

2. The product may not have been blanched enough to cause
necessary shrinkage.

3. The pressure may have fluctuated instead of being kept steady.

4. The pet-cock of the pressure cooker may have opened before
the pressure dropped to zero.

To be sure, the empty space will not affect the quality of
the food, but it does detract from the appearance and wastes
space.

Lack of liquid in the jar may also be caused by uneven
temperature, and when the jar is packed closely there is little
space left when the water is added. The product will keep
in this condition, but the flavor seems to be better if the food
is practically covered with liquid.

In the canning of greens, asparagus, peas, beans and corn,
flat sour seems to be responsible for more failures than any
other one factor.

This condition is not always apparent until the jar is opened.
The appearance may be unchanged as to color and texture, but
when the jar is opened the taste and odor are bad and the prod-
uct must be destroyed. Occasionally neither odor nor taste is
detected until the food is heated. Sometimes the presence of
flat sour is indicated by the slightly clouded color of the liquid
and a general change in the color of the product itself.

This condition seems to develop at different stages along the

664

route from the garden to the canner. It is imperative then to
use only fresh sound vegetables, since changes are said to take
place in vegetables when they are allowed to stand for a time
in a warm place. Hence it is also necessary to prepare only a
limited number of jars at one time, so that the product can be
handled rapidly.

Caution in Using Home-Canned Foods

Because of possible danger from botulinus poisoning, it may
be well to boil all home-canned vegetables for five minutes after
the can is opened. This should be done even if the food is to be
served cold in a salad.

1. When the cover is loosened, if there is an escape of air or liquid,
it may indicate that gas has been formed by the spoiling of the food.

2. Smell the contents, but do not taste. A peculiar odor indicates
spoiled food, and a single taste of food spoiled by botulinus is some-
times fatal.

3. The liquid should be clear, free from all clouded appearance.

4. The food should be firm and free from mold.

5. Do not take any chances. If there is any doubt as to the con-
dition of the food discard it.

6. I£ the food is in good condition, do not pour off the liquid.
Vegetable juices contain minerals and other valuable food substances
and may be added to soups, gravies and sauces.

TIME-TABLE FOR CANNING WITH THE PRESSURE

COOKER

(10 pounds pressure)
Vegetables Vegetables

Time of Cooking — ^Minutes Time of Cooking — ^Minutes

Asparagus 40 Pumpkin 60

Beans, string 40 Sauerkraut 40

Beans, shell or Lima 50 Spinach and other greens 40

Beets 40 Squash 40

Carrots 40 Succotash 50

Cauliflower 40 Tomatoes and corn, equal

Corn, whole grain 50 parts 50

Corn, cream style 60 Meat 105

Parsnips 40 Fish 90

Peas 40

Fruits that May be Canned in Pressure Cooker

Pears, hard 15 Pineapple 45

CANNING, PRESERVING AND JELLY MAKING 665

TIME-TABLE FOR CANNING IN THE HOT-WATER

BATH

The Following Foods are Most Suitable for Canning by this
Process:

Time of Cooking* — ^Minutes Time of Cooking* — Minutes

Apples 20-30 Peppers 30

Apricots 16 Pineapples 120

Blackberries, dewberries . . 16 Plums 16'

Cherries 16 Quinces 60

Elderberries 16 Raspberries 16

Fruit- juices 20 Rhubarb 16

Grapes 16 Sauerkraut 60

Huckleberries 16 Tomatoes 30

Peaches . . . . t 20 Tomato-juice 20

Pears 20-30

Acid Used with The Following Foods Helps to Insure Success
and Safety. (See page 660)

Asparagus 90 Corn, whole grain 90

Beans, string 90 Okra 90

Beets 90 Peas 90

Carrots 90 Spinach and other greens 90

If the Hot- Water Bath, ^without Acid, Is Used for Canning the
Following Foods, It Is Safer to Boil the Food After Opening
the Can:

Asparagus 180 Greens, spinach, etc 180

Beans, string 180 Okra 120

Beans, lima 180 Peas 180

Beets 120 Pumpkin 240

Carrots 120 Squash 180

Cauliflower 120 Vegetable combinations. . 180

Corn 180 Meat 300

* If a steam cooker is used, the time should be increased one-third the amount
given for the hot-water bath.

For altitudes above 1,000 feet, it is said that the time of cooking should be
increased 10 per cent, for each 500 feet.

SIRUPS FOR CANNING FRUITS

The thickness of sirup for canning fruits depends upon the
kind of fruit with which it is to be used and upon the richness
of the product desired.

666

In order to obtain the grades of sirup ordinarily used in
canning, sugar and water may be combined in the following
proportions and boiled five minutes. The quantity of water
is given as the same in each grade in order to show the variation
in the quantity of sugar used:

Thin Sirup — ^Four cups of water, two cups of sugar. This sirup
may be used for such fruits as apples, pears, raspberries and other
sweet berries, when a rich product is not desired.

Medium Sirup — ^Four cups of water, two and one-half cups of
sugar. This sirup may be used for such fruits as sweet plums, black-
berries, and sweet cherries.

Thick Sirup — ^Four cups of water, five cups of sugar. This sirup
may be used for such fruits as peaches, cherries or pineapples, when
a sweet product is desired.

A still thicker sirup may be desired for rhubarb, gooseberries,
currants, sour cherries, and other very sour fruits. Such a sirup may
be made by boiling the thick sirup until it begins to spin a thread.

A GUIDE TO QUANTITIES REQUIRED FOR CANNING

The following estimates may be used as a general guide in
determining the amount of food required for canning:

Vegetables

lYz lbs. spinach .

1 lb. chard

12-15 baby beets

20 carrots

y^ lb. string beans

2 qts. peas

4 small ears corn .

Ipt
Ipt
Ipt
Ipt
Ipt
Ipt
Ipt

Fruits

1 bu. peaches

1 bu. pears

1 bu. plums

1 bu. red raspberries

1 bu. cherries

1 bu. tomatoes ...

r= 25 qts.
= 30 qts.
= 28 qts.
= 24 qts.
= 20 qts.
= 18 qts.

PRESERVES, MARMALADES, JAMS, CON-
SERVES AND FRUIT BUTTERS

In making preserves, marmalades, conserves, jams and fruit
butters, a larger amount of sugar is used than in canning.
The sugar is cooked into the fruit or condensed with the
fruit-juice and acts as a natural preservative against yeasts and
bacteria. These foods must still be protected from molds, and
this is most satisfactorily accomplished by sealing in clean hot
jars.

CANNING, PRESERVING AND JELLY MAKING 667

Preserves

Preserves are fniits in which the tissues of the fruit have
absorbed a heavy sugar sirup until they are filled with sirup
instfead of with water. A good preserved fruit is plump and
tender in texture and filled with sweetness. It is bright in
color, clear and sparkling.

Cook Hard Fruits Before Placing in Sirup — Stew hard
fruits, such as hard pears, underripe peaches, pineapples, sweet
apples, quinces, watermelon-rind or citron, until tender before
placing them in a heavy sirup. This makes the fruit soft, so
that the sirup can enter the cells of the fruit. If these fruits
are not treated in this way, the preserves will be hard and tough
instead of plump and tender. Tender fruits such as berries,
ripe peaches or cherries may be placed at once in a heavy sirup.

Cook Rapidly in Sirup — Cook the fruit rapidly in the sirup,
and only long enough for the sirup to fill the fruit. Too long
cooking gives a dark, stiflf product.

When foods have been given a preliminary cooking to make
them tender, drain them before adding them to the sirup. The
water in which they were cooked should be used for making
the sirup. Place the fruit in the sirup and bring it quickly to
the boiling-point; continue the cooking rapidly until the prod-
uct has a bright, clear, shiny look, showing that the fruit is
filled with the clear sirup.

Plumping — If an extra fine quality of preserve is desired,
add the fruit to the sirup and heat it only until it bubbles ; then
set it away in a covered enamel preserving-kettle for several
hours, or over night. Then continue the cooking. In this way,
more sirup is absorbed by the fruit. If the amount of extra
work entailed is not too exacting, the heating and cooling
process may be repeated several times. Pears, peaches, green
tomatoes, whole tomatoes, crabapples, citron and melon-rind
are especially adapted to plumping. Fruit to be candied should
be plumped.

Sealing — ^The best method of keeping preserves is to seal
them in hot clean jars. If trouble has been experienced with
molds, it may be desirable to hold the jars of preserves in steam
or boiling water for ten minutes as an extra precaution against
molds. All jars, rubbers, spoons and utensils that are to be
used in placing preserves in the jars should be sterilized in boil-
ing water.

668

SIRUP FOR PRESERVES

The amount of sugar used in making the sirup for preserves
may vary with the tastes of the individual. About three-
fourths pound of sugar and three-fourths cup of water to "one
pound of fruit is used for most fruits. For gooseberries and
very tart fruits, a pound to pound proportion of sugar is re-
quired. Dissolve the sugar in the water and boil the sirup for
five or ten minutes, according to the sweetness desired. If a
very rich preserve is to be made, boil sirup until it spins a thread
(230° F.), before adding the fruit.

BERRY PRESERVES

Follow recipe for strawberry preserves or sun -cooked pre-
serves (pp. 671-672) for all berries except blackberries. Black-
berries do not make satisfactory preserves, on account of the
large hard seeds.

CHERRY PRESERVES
2 pounds sour cherries, lYz pounds sugar

weighed after stoning

Add the sugar to the stoned cherries and bring them quickly
to the boiling-point. Cook rapidly until the fruit is clear,
skimming as necessary. Pour at once into clean hot jars and
seal.

FIG PRESERVES

4 pounds fresh figs 1 cup water

2 pounds sugar 1 lemon

"Wash and peel the figs. Slice the lemon. Boil the sugar and
water together for ten minutes, then add the figs and lemon.
Cook rapidly until the fruit is clear. Seal in clean hot jars.

PRESERVED GINGER

1 pound fresh ginger roots 1 Yz cups water 1 pound sugar

Scrub roots of fresh green ginger thoroughly, using a brush.
Pare with a very sharp knife, and place the roots at once in
cold water. Rinse well and place in fresh cold water. Let stand
over night. Drain, weigh the ginger, place it in a preserving-
kettle, and cover it with cold water. When the water is boil-
ing, skim out the ginger and place it again in cold water. When

CANNING, PRESERVING AND JELLY MAKING 669

quite cool, return to the kettle, add more cold water, and when
the water is boiling, skim out the ginger and lay in cold water,
as before. Do this three times, or until the ginger is tender.

Boil the sugar and water together for ten minutes. Drain
the ginger and add it to the sirup. Bring quickly to the boil-
ing-point; remove from the heat and let it stand over night.
Drain off the sirup, let it come to a boil and repeat the first
process.

Drain off the sirup again, heat to boiling, add the ginger and
simmer until clear. Pour into clean hot jars and seal. It will
be ready to use in two weeks.

GOOSEBERRY PRESERVES

1 pound green gooseberries 1J4 pounds sugar

Stem the berries, remove the blossom end, and wash the fruit
in cold water. Half cover the gooseberries with water and scald
the fruit until the skins are soft. Add the sugar to the hot
mixture. Bring quickly to the boiling-point and cook until
clear. Seal at once in clean hot jars.

GRAPE PRESERVES

4 pounds Concord graces Yz pound of sugar for each

Yz cup water to each pound pound of prepared fruit

fruit

"Wash the grapes and press the pulp from the skins. (They
are extra nice if seeded.) Boil the sugar and water ten min-
utes. Add the fruit and cook until the grapes are clear and the
sirup is thick. Pour into hot clean jars and seal.

GREEN-GAGE PRESERVES

% pound sugar to each pound of fruit

Place the plums in a wire basket, immerse the basket in boil-
ing water, and when the skins crack and loosen remove the
plums from the water and peel them. Place a layer of the
fruit in a large earthen jar, sprinkle it with some of the sugar,
add another layer of fruit, and one of sugar, and when all is
used set the jar aside until the next morning. In the morning,
draw off the juice that has formed. Boil it for ten minutes,
skimming it as the scum rises. Add the fruit, and cook rapidly

670

until the plums are clear and tender. Skim out the fruit, place
on a large platter, and boil the sirup until it coats a spoon,
draining into the kettle all that drains from the fruit on the
platter. When thick enough, return the fruit to the sirup and
bring to a boil. Pour into clean hot jars and seal.

PEACH PRESERVES

y^ pound sugar and % cup of water to each pound of prepared

fruit

Cling-stone peaches are better than free-stone, for they keep
their shape better. Wash, peel, and remove the stones if de-
sired. If the stones are to be removed, cut the peaches in
quarters. Boil the sugar and water for ten minutes. Skim, add
the fruit and cook rapidly until it is transparent. Seal in clean
hot jars.

PINEAPPLE PRESERVES

% pound sugar to each pound of prepared fruit

Pare the pineapple, and with a sharp, pointed knife extract
the eyes; then with a silver fork tear the fruit off the core in
pieces of moderate size. Weigh the pulp, then place it in a
preserving-kettle and partly cover it with water. Cover the
kettle closely. Cook until the pineapple is tender. Then drain
the pineapple from the water and add the sugar to the water,
and cook together until the sirup is thick enough to coat a
spoon. Return the fruit to the sirup and cook rapidly until
clear. Pour into clean hot jars and seal.

PLUM PRESERVES

6 pounds fruit 4 Yz pounds sugar 1 cup water

Select small purple plums and be sure they are sound and not
overripe. Remove the stems, wash the fruit, and pierce each
plum with a fork. Place the plums in an earthen bowl or jar,
cover them with the sugar and add the water. Cover the bowl
and set in a cool place over night. Drain the plums, and boil
the juice for five minutes. Add the plums and cook until clear.
This will take only a few minutes, and care should be taken
not to overcook, as the sirup thickens or jellies after standing.
Pour into hot, clean jars and seal.

CANNING, PRESERVING AND JELLY MAKING 671

QUINCE PRESERVES

3 quarts sugar 3 cups water 4 quarts prepared fruit

Never cook quinces in sirup before steaming or boiling them
in water until tender, as sugar hardens the uncooked fruit.

Scrub the quinces with a stiff brush, wash, pare, core, and
quarter, dropping the pieces into cold water to prevent dis-
coloration. Save all the good parings and cores for jelly.
Measure the prepared fruit, put it into a preserving-kettle,
cover with cold water and cook until the fruit is soft, then
skim out and drain. Save the water to be used with the par-
ings, cores, and gnarly fruit for jelly.

Make a sirup of the sugar and water and boil for £.Ye minutes.
Add the drained quince quarters and cook rapidly until the
fruit is clear. Pour into clean, hot glasses and seal.

Many persons prefer quince preserves made with an equal
measure of sweet apples or firm pears. The method of making
is the same as for quinces alone.

STRAWBERRY PRESERVES

4 pounds berries 3 pounds sugar

Pick over, wash, and hull the berries. Add the sugar to the
strawberries, and heat gently until the sugar dissolves and the
juice is drawn from the beiyries. Cook rapidly until the fruit
is plump and transparent and the sirup thick. Pack carefully
in clean, hot jars and seal. All berries except blackberries may
be made into preserves by this method. (See also Sun Cooked
Preserves below.)

EIGHT-MINUTE STRAWBERRY PRESERVES

Select large firm berries of deep-red color. Wash and remove
the hulls. Weigh the berries and add an equal weight of sugar.
Mix the berries with the sugar, using a wooden spoon and lift-
ing the berries gently to avoid crushing them. Place the berries
and sugar at once over the fire. Bring them to the boiling-
point as soon as possible and boil rapidly for eight minutes.
Seal in clean hot jars. By this method the berries keep their
shape and the finished product has a clear, rich color.

672

SUN-COOKED PRESERVES

Small fruits like strawberries, raspberries, and currants can
be preserved by this process. Wash the fruit, drain thoroughly,
pick over and stem, then weigh it. For each pound of fruit,
allow one pound of sugar and one cup of water. Add the water
to the sugar and cook until the sirup spins a thread. Remove
the sirup from the fire. Add the fruit and let it remain in the
sirup over night. With a skimmer remove the fruit from the
sirup, and lay it on platters or flat dishes. Cook the sirup again
imtil it threads. Pour the hot sirup over the berries, cover the
platter with cheese-cloth or glass and place in the direct sun-
light. A glass cover hastens the process. Allow the fruit to
stand three or four days in the sunshine, or until the sirup is
thick and jelly-like in consistency. Pack in clean jars and seal.

TOMATO PRESERVES

1 pound small, yellow 1 lemon

tomatoes % pound sugar

Select the small yellow tomatoes that are about the size of
small plums. Pour boiling water over them and cover tightly
for two minutes, then quickly drain and cover with cold water.
This will loosen the skins. Peel the tomatoes, being careful not
to break them. If any are found with the skins still un-
loosened, treat them again with bofling water. Place the sugar
and tomatoes in a crock or enamel bowl and let stand over
night. Drain off the juice and boil rapidly until it threads.
Add the tomatoes and the thinly sliced lemon. Cook until clear
and thick. Seal in clean hot jars.

GREEN TOMATO PRESERVES

8 pounds green tomatoes 1 tablespoon preserved ginger

6 pounds sugar 6 lemons

"Wash the tomatoes, remove any dark parts about the stems,
and weigh them. Cover them with boiling water, let them
stand five minutes, drain and slice them into a preserving-kettle,
placing a layer of the tomatoes, then a layer of sliced lemon,
then the sugar with the ginger sprinkled over it. Let the mix-
ture stand over night. Drain and boil the sirup for ten minutes.

CANNING, PRESERVING AND JELLY MAKING 673

Skim, add the tomatoes and cook rapidly until they are clear.
Pour into clean, hot jars and seal.

Jams

Jam is made from whole small fruits which are either mashed
or cooked to a pulp with sugar. Good jam is soft, tender and
jelly-like in texture, bright and sparkling in color and of the
same consistency throughout the mixture.

Some Underripe Fruit Desirable — ^Portions of fruit left
from canning, or broken fruit, may be used for jam, but at
least a portion of the fruit should be underripe. Overripe fruit
lacks pectin and some pectin, a jellying substance, is necessary
for good jam.

Cook the Fruit Before Adding Sugar — ^In order to de-
velop the pectin substance, the fruit should be cooked for a few
minutes before the sugar is added. If the fruit does not have
sufl&cient juice, add just enough water to keep it from burning
and cook it in a covered kettle.

Not too Much Sugar — ^The best jam is made by using not
more than three-fourths pound of sugar to each pound of fruit.

Cook Quickly and Not too Long — ^After the sugar is
added to the fruit, continue the cooking quickly until the jam
gives a jelly-like appearance. It should hang in sheets from the
spoon or set quickly if a portion is dropped on a cool plate. It
should be tender and jelly-like, not thick and tough. Jam
thickens on cooling, and an allowance must be made for this
or the jam will be overcooked. Overcooking also darkens the
product. It is better to make a small amount of jam at a time.
Use enamel or porcelain cooking utensils, if possible.

Stir to Prevent Burning — ^Jam is a highly concentrated
mass and will burn quickly unless it is stirred from the bottom.
Use a wooden spoon and lift the mass from the bottom. It is
better to cook jam briskly and watch it carefully for twenty
or thirty minutes than to let it simmer for hours.

Seal in Hot, Clean Jars — Jams, like preserves, are safer
from molds if they are sealed in hot, clean jars.

BLACKBERRY JAM

Mash the berries, cook them in their own juice until they are
thoroughly heated, then press them through a sieve to remove

674

the seeds, which are objectionably large. Measure this pulp
and liquid, and for every pint allow one cup of sugar. Add
the sugar to the pulp, and cook rapidly until thick, stirring
frequently. Pack in clean, hot jars and seal.

FIG JAM

154 cups sugar to 1 pint of stewed figs

Select soft, ripe, white figs, remove the stems and peel.
Mash, add just enough water to prevent scorching and cook
until they are soft. Add sugar and cook rapidly until the mix-
ture is thick and amber colored with a shiny surface.

RASPBERRY AND CURRANT JAM

1 pound red raspberries 54 cup currant-juice % pound sugar

Mash the fruit, add the currant- juice, and bring to the boil-
ing-point, stirring well from the bottom. Add the sugar and
cook until thick, stirring occasionally. Pack in clean hot jars
and seal.

STRAWBERRY JAM

% pound sugar to 1 pound hulled berries

Pick over the berries and remove the hulls. Put the fruit on
the fire alone, mashing it as it heats; a wooden potato-masher
is best for the purpose. Bring the fruit to a boil, stirring al-
most constantly and crushing any berries that may remain
whole. Add the sugar to the fruit and boil together until thick
(not over twenty minutes), stirring well to prevent burning.
Pack in clean hot jars and seal.

GOOSEBERRY JAM

Follow directions for strawberry jam, but boil the fruit alone
until the skins are soft, then add the sugar and boil until the
mixture is thick. Avoid too long cooking, as the juice will
thicken on standing.

GRAPE JAM

Stem the grapes, wash, and press the pulp from the skins.
Place the pulp in a kettle, cook until soft, then rub through a
sieve to remove the seeds. Cook the skins until soft in just

CANNING, PRESERVING AND JELLY MAKING 675

enough water to cover. Combine the two mixtures and boil for
five minutes. Measure and allow one cup of sugar to every pint
of fruit. Cook until thick, which will take but a few minutes.
Pack in clean hot jars and seal.

PEACH JAM

5 pounds peaches 1 cup water 3 pounds sugar

Choose good peaches that are not firm enough for canning.
Remove the stones and cut in slices. Put the water in the pre-
serving-kettle and add the peaches. Cover and cook until soft,
stirring to prevent sticking. Add the sugar and cook until
thick and jelly-like. Pack in clean, hot jars and seal.

RED RASPBERRY JAM

Pick over the berries and wash them carefully. "Weigh, and
to each pound of fruit allow three- fourths pound of sugar.
Heat the berries gently in a preserving-kettle. When the juice
starts, mash with a wooden potato-masher. Add the sugar and
cook rapidly until thick and clear. Seal in clean hot jars.

Marmalades

Marmalades are usually made from fruits which have some
jelly-making properties, that is, in which both pectin and acid
are present. Thin slices of fruit are used and the product shows
a clear jelly or jelly-like sirup in which the sliced or cut fruit
is suspended. If a fruit is used which lacks these jellying prop-
erties, they are often supplied by adding sliced orange or lemon
or by using some tart apple- juice.

Marmalades are prepared in the same way as jams, except that
the fruit remains in thin slices or cut portions and is not mashed.
They should be clear and sparkling in color.

ORANGE MARMALADE

12 thin-skinned oranges 3 lemons

"Wash the fruit and slice it as thin as paper, or grind it fine.
For each quart of fruit, add one and one-half quarts of water
and let the mixture stand over night. In the morning cook it
slowly until tender, from two to two and one-half hours.

676

Measure the cooked fruit and add an equal amount of sugar.
Cook the mixture until it jellies from a spoon (thirty to sixty-
minutes) . Pour it into clean, hot jars and when it is cold, cover
it with hot paraffin.

CARROT AND ORANGE MARMALADE

6 carrots 1 lemon

3 oranges Sugar

Dice the carrots and cook them until they are tender, in as
little water as possible. Slice the oranges in thin pieces and
add the juice and grated rind of the lemon. Measure the carrot
and fruit, and add two-thirds as much sugar. Simmer the mix-
ture until it is clear. Turn it into jelly glasses, and when it is
cold, cover it with hot paraffin.

AMBER MARMALADE

1 grapefruit 3 Yz quarts water

1 orange 5 pounds sugar

1 lemon

Wash and wipe the fruit. Cut in paper-thin slices, using a
very sharp knife. Add the water and let stand over night.
Cook until the peel is tender and let it stand over night. Add
the sugar and cook until the sirup thickens slightly on a cold
dish. Pour into clean jars and seal.

GRAPEFRUIT MARMALADE

1 pound peeled grapefruit %. pound sugar

1 quart water ^ poimd grapefruit peel

Wash the fruit and remove the peel in uniform sections.
Choose one- fourth pound of peel that is free from blemishes
and cut it into thin slices. Cover with water, and boil for ten
minutes. Drain, cover with boiling water, and repeat the
process four or five times to remove the bitter flavor.

Weigh the pulp and slice it. Cover with the water and boil
until very tender. Pour into a flannel jelly-bag, press until no
more juice can be obtained, and filter the juice through another
clean flannel jelly-bag without pressing. Pour the juice into
the kettle, add the sliced peel, and the sugar, and boil rapidly
imtil it reaches the jellying point.

.^d.

liiliifts

STARTING POINT —
THE FINISHED PROD-
UCT WILL BE GOLDEN
ORANGE MARMALADE

SUCCULENT pUch-pre:'/

SERVES WILL BRING A
BREATH OF SUMMER TO >
YOUR WINTER MEALS 1 A

w^^

t>^

FRUITS AND BER-
RIES ARE ALWAYS
IN SEASON IF YOU
PRESERVE THEM

CANNING, PRESERVING AND JELLY MAKING 677

QUINCE AND APPLE MARMALADE

Wash the quinces and remove the blossom end. Cut the fruit
in small pieces, add sufficient water to cover it, and cook until
it is soft. Rub it through a sieve, and combine the pulp with
an equal measure of tart apple pulp. Use two-thirds as much
sugar as pulp. Cook until it is thick and clear (about twenty-
five minutes). Turn it into clean, hot glasses and when it is
cold cover it with hot paraffin.

RHUBARB MARMALADE

Rhubarb for marmalade should be young and fresh. Cut it
into inch lengths without peeling. Weigh it. Allow three-
fourths pound of sugar to every pound of rhubarb. Place the
sugar and rhubarb in a preserving-kettle, heat it very slowly
and boil until thick and clear. Pack in clean hot jars and seal.

Conserves

Conserves, like marmalades, may be made of large or small
fruits. They differ from marmalade in that several fruits may
be combined and nuts may be added. In this way, it is possible
to develop pleasing combinations of flavors and to combine
fruits which have good acid or pectin content with fruits that
lack these qualities. Conserves are made in the same way as
marmalades. When nuts are used, they are added after all the
cooking is done, as heat toughens the nut-meats.

CHERRY CONSERVE

3 pints pitted sour cherries 2% cups sugar

1 pint black raspberries

Combine all the ingredients, and cook until thick and clear.

No. 1. CRANBERRY CONSERVE

1 quart cranberries 2% cups sugar

1 cup water J4 pound walnut-meats

Juice of 1 orange

Wash the cranberries and cook them in the water until the
berries burst. Add all the remaining ingredients except the
nuts and cook until the mixture is thick. Break the nuts into

678

small pieces, add them to the cooked mixture, then pour it into
hot, clean glasses and seal.

No. 2.

2 quarts cranberries 2 lemons

1 cup raisins 6 cups sugar

2 oranges

Combine the grated rind and juice of the oranges and lemons
with the other ingredients and cook until the mixture is thick
and clear. Pour into hot, clean glasses and seal. This is an
excellent relish with game.

CURRANT CONSERVE

5 pints currants 2 oranges

6 5^ cups sugar 1 cup walnut-meats

Combine the grated rind and juice of the oranges with the
currants and sugar and cook until the mixture is thick and clear.
Add the nuts, pour into clean, hot glasses and seal.

GRAPE CONSERVE

2 pints grapes lYi cups sugar

2 oranges 1 cup walnut-meats

1 cup seeded raisins

"Wash, stem, and seed the grapes. Slice the oranges very thin,
and add to the grapes. Add the raisins and sugar and cook
until the mixture is transparent and thick. Add the chopped
walnut-meats. Pack while hot in hot, clean jars and seal.

PINEAPPLE CONSERVE

1 quart pineapple pulp and 1 lemon
juice 3 cups sugar

2 oranges

Pare the pineapples and put them through the food-chopper.
Steam until tender. Add the sugar, grated rind and pulp of
the oranges and lemons and cook the mixture rapidly until it
is thick. Pour into glasses and seal.

CANNING, PRESERVING AND JELLY MAKING 679

PINEAPPLE AND RHUBARB CONSERVE

1 quart shredded pineapple 3 J4 quarts sugar
4 quarts rhubarb 1 cup nut-meats

2 oranges

Cook the pineapple in a covered kettle, with a small amount
of water, until tender. Add the rhubarb, juice and grated rind
of the oranges, and the sugar, and cook until thick. Add the
chopped nuts and seal in clean, hot jars. This makes an ex-
cellent filling for sandwiches.

PLUM CONSERVE

2 quarts plums 5J4 cups sugar 1 lemon

"Wash and pit the plums. Add a small amount of water and
cook in a covered kettle until the skins are soft. Add the
sugar, and grated rind and juice of the lemon, and cook until
the mixture is thick and clear. Pack into hot, clean glasses and
seal.

Fruit Butters

Fruit butters are among the most wholesome of fruit sweets,
as they contain a large^^mount of fruit to a small amount of
sugar. In making butters, the whole fruit is cooked until
tender and then rubbed through a sieve. Sugar is added, and
spice if desired, and the mixture is cooked until it is smooth
and thick. Like jam, it must be carefully watched and should
not be overcooked.

GRAPE BUTTER

4 pounds grapes 1 pound sugar

"Wash and stem the grapes. Cook in a small amount of
water until the skins are soft. Press the pulp through a strainer,
to remove seeds and skins. Add the sugar and cook until thick
and clear. Pour into hot, clean glasses and seal.

PEACH BUTTER

2 quarts peach pulp 4 cups sugar 1 cup water

Pare, stone, slice and measure the fruit. Place it in the pre-
serving-kettle with the water and heat it very slowly. When

68o

it is soft, pass the peaches through a fine sieve, return the pulp
to the fire, add the sugar, and cook until thick and clear. Pack
in hot, clean jars and seal.

APPLE BUTTER

Wash the apples, and cut them in eighths. Cook them in a
small amount of water until they are tender. Put them through
a sieve. To each cup of pulp add four tablespoons of sugar
and cook the mixture until it is thick. If the apples lack flavor,
a small amount of lemon- juice and grated rind may be added.
Pour into hot, clean glasses and seal.

APPLE AND PLUM BUTTER

Wash and cut the apples and the plums. Use about three
times as many apples as plums. Cook them in a small amount
of water until they are tender, then put the cooked fruit
through a sieve. To each cup of fruit pulp, add one-third cup
of sugar. Cook the butter until it is thick and clear. Pour
into hot, clean glasses and seal.

COMBINATIONS OF FRUITS FOR CONSERVES,
MARMALADES AND PRESERVES

1. One part peaches, three parts oranges, one part rhubarb,
with nut-meats.

2. Equal parts peaches and plums, with nut-meats.

3. Two parts peaches, one part pineapple, one part rhubarb.

4. Equal parts peaches and apricots, with nut-meats.

5. Pears and ginger.

6. Two parts pears, one part orange, and one part pineapple.

7. Two pounds quinces, two oranges.

8. Equal parts grapes and crabapples, with nuts.

9. Equal parts plums and crabapples.

10. Apples with mint and nuts.

11. Two pounds figs, three pounds rhubarb, one lemon, one
orange.

12. One part peaches, one part pineapple, one part white
grapes with nuts.

CANNING, PRESERVING AND JELLY MAKING 68l

CANDIED FRUITS AND FRUIT PASTES

See chapter on Candies, pages 514-516.

FRUIT JELLIES

Fruit-jelly is made by combining fruit-juices and sugar in the
right proportions and under the right conditions. To be good
for jelly, a fruit-juice must contain acid and a substance called
pectin. Pectin is the essential jelly-making substance. Some
fruits contain acid and pectin in proper proportions for mak-
ing perfect jelly. With other fruit- juices either acid or pectin
has to be supplied by some other fruit in order to make good
jelly. A sour juice makes a more tender jelly than one that
contains little acid. Without sufficient pectin the mass will not
jelly.

The Best Fruits for Jelly Making

Among the fruit- juices that make good jelly when used alone
are apple, crabapple, partly ripe grapes, currants, and slightly
underripe red raspberries. Such fruits as strawberries, peaches,
pears, pineapples and cherries do not make good jelly when used
alone. Currant-juice may be used with an equal measure of rhu-
barb-juice, with good r-esults in color, texture and flavor. The
table on page 683 suggests good combinations of fruit- juices.

A perfect jelly is clear, bright and tender. When cut, it has
a clean surface and does not stick to the knife or spoon. When
turned from the glass, jelly should hold its shape and should
quiver but not break.

How to Make Jelly
METHOD I

Look the fruit over carefully, and remove blossom ends or
decayed parts. It is generally not necessary to remove the skins.
Most fruits need to be cooked before the juice can be extracted.
Juicy fruits should be cooked in a small amount of water. Such
fruits as apples should be covered with water.

First Extraction of Juice — Cook the fruit until it is
tender, turn it into a jelly-bag and allow the juice to dnp
through. If a clear jelly is desired, do not squeeze the bag.
Squeezing gives a cloudy jelly.

682

Second and Third Extractions — ^A second and a third ex-
traction may be made from such fruits as crabapples, apples,
grapes, currants and quinces. Return the pulp to the preserv-
ing-kettle after the juice has dripped from it, cover it with
water, heat it gradually and allow it to simmer for thirty min-
utes. At the end of that time, turn it into a jelly-bag and allow
it to drip without squeezing. This juice is usually kept separate
from the first extraction and made into jelly by itself. It has
good taste but is not clear.

Tests for Pectin

In making jelly, it is necessary to know in general the pro-
portion of pectin present, as on this depends not only the
jellying of the mass but also the amount of sugar that will be
required.

Epsom-Salts Test for Pectin — ^To one tablespoon of
cooked fruit-juice, add one teaspoon sugar and one-half table-
spoon Epsom salts. Stir the mixture until the salts have dis-
solved, and let it stand for twenty minutes. If the mixture
forms a solid mass or large flocculent particles, the juice will
make a satisfactory jelly without added pectin.

Quantity of Sugar

Probably many of the failures in jelly-making are caused by
the addition of too much sugar. Currants, underripe grapes,
green gooseberries, barberries, and wild apples are practically
the only fruit-juices that require an equal measure of sugar.
Two- thirds as much sugar as juice is a good proportion for
most fruits; the table on next page gives the proportions of
juices and sugar for different kinds of jelly.

FESTIVE FLAVORS

Apple and crab apple jelly take on a note of gaiety if flavored
with a spray of the leaves of rose geranium, lemon verbena or
fresh mint. Drop the sprigs into the boiling jelly just before
it is finished and allow to cool with the jelly while pouring. The
jelly glass can also be decorated by enclosing a flower. Use a
wild rose or other simple flower. "Wash, and with the petals
damp press it to the bottom of the glass. Add a spoonful of the
jelly, partly cool and allow it to solidify before filling the re-
mainder of the glass.

CANNING, PRESERVING AND JELLY MAKING

683

PROPORTION OF SUGAR AND FRUIT JUICE
FOR JELLY

Amount Amount

of juice of sugar

Cups Cups

Crabapple 1 2^

Apple

combined in the following propor-
tions 1/4

Blackberry-
Apple

Currant

Gooseberry (green)

Grape (underripe)

Blueberry

Cherry ) combined in the following proportions

1 ... 3/4 to 1

1 1

1 ... 3^ to 1

1 y.

Rhubarb \ ^^^mbined in the following proportions
combined in the following proportions

Apple

Blueberry

Rhubarb

Apple )

Black Raspberry )

combined in the following
proportions

Quince \ ^^^^^^^^ i" ^^^ following proportions . .
Pineaoole \ combined in the following proportions
Peach ) combined in the following proportions . .

combined in the following propor-
tions

Apple

Strawberry

Apple ]

Quince > combined in the following proportions

Cranberry)

Blueberry f combined in the following proportions

'/2S

VzS

■/3
■/3

54
H

H
H
H

VzS

'A)

Vzl

VzS

Cooking the Jelly

In general, not more than two quarts of jelly should be
cooked at one time. The capacity of the preserving-kettle
should be four or five times as great as the amount of juice to
be cooked, as there is a tendency for the juice to boil over.

XT'-

b>fe :;-•"¥

CLEAN WHITE PARAFFIN
TO SEAL THE FLAVOR OF
YOUR JELLY

JELLY JEWELS IN CUSTARD
CUPS WRAPPED IN CELLO-
PHANE. FOR CHRISTMAS OR
SON VOYAGE GIFTS

684

Measure the juice and boil it rapidly for £^ve minutes, skim-
ming it if necessary. Add the sugar and stir the juice until the
sugar is dissolved. Heating the sugar seems to save no time,
nor does it seem to improve the quality of the jelly. Cook the
juice very rapidly, to obtain a bright, clear product; long, slow
cooking gives a dull, dark jelly of inferior texture.

Jelly Test — ^To test the jelly, take up a small amount of
the juice in a spoon and allow it to drop from the side of the
spoon. When the drops flow together and sheet from the
spoon, the jelly is done and should be removed from the heat
at once.

Sealing the Jelly

Pour the hot juice into clean, hot glasses, filling them to the
top. The jelly shrinks as it cools and leaves a space for the
paraffin. When the jelly is cold and has set, cover it with hot
paraffin.

When Fruits Lack Sufficient Pectin

"When a fruit- juice, or a combination of fruit- juices, does not
contain enough pectin to make jelly, a concentrated form of
ready-to-use pectin may be used. (See Method II.)

METHOD II

The ready-to-use pectins are very helpful in making jelly.
It does not matter if the fruit is low in natural pectin, the pectin
extract will jelly any fruit with which it is used. Hence, many
fruits such as cherry, raspberry, peach, etc., which do not make
a good jelly alone, can be used with concentrated pectin. This
assurance of success recommands it to the woman who has never
been a highly successful jelly-maker. Others prefer to use it
because it is always ready; and also because the pectin extract
has been subjected to much heat in preparation and is very
concentrated, so that it is neither necessary nor wise to heat
the fruit more than the few moments the directions advise.
Unfortunately sometimes more heat is used than directed and
consequently the pectin breaks down and the jelly is unsuc-
cessful. Much the same thing happens when jelly made by the
usual method is overcooked.

Since jellies or jams made with ready-to-use pectins reqxxire
little cooking, there is little loss from evaporation and so larger
quantities are obtained than when the natural pectin of the
fruit is depended upon.

CANNING, PRESERVING AND JELLY MAKING 685

Several types of combined fruit- juices and pectin are now
on the market for use in making quick jellies.

Directions for Using Concentrated Pectin

Ready-to-use pectins are highly concentrated. The direc-
tions given with the package should be carefully followed as
these have been developed to give the most satisfactory results
with the product. The proportions for their use are generally
recommended as follows:

For Strawberry, Blackberry, Raspberry or Loganberry
Jelly use 4 cups of fruit juice, 8 cups of sugar and 1 cup of pectin.

For Cherry, Peach or Pineapple Jelly use 3 cups juice, 6][/2
cups sugar, and 1 cup pectin.

For Elderberry Jelly use 3 Y^ cups juice, 8 cups sugar and 1
cup pectin.

To make these jellies, follow directions for extracting juice
given under Method I, add the necessary amount of sugar to
the juice, stir and bring the mixture to the boiling-point, add
the pectin and boil vigorously for one minute. Remove the
jelly from the heat, skim and pour it into hot glasses.

Special Recipes for Making Jelly

The directions for making jelly given on the previous pages
may be used in making all jellies. Special directions are given
for a few jellies of unusual characteristics.

In Using Commercial Ready-to-Use Pectin for making
jellies, follow the directions on the package or those supplied
by the manufacturer, as these have been developed to give
satisfactory results.

BARBERRY JELLY

Gather the berries just before the first frost. Remove the
stems, wash and measure the berries, and to every two quarts
allow one pint of water. Cook until the berries are soft, take
from the fire, drain, and measure the juice. To each cup of
juice allow one cup of sugar, for barberries require more sugar
than most fruits. Boil the juice for five minutes, add the
sugar and cook until it meets the jelly test; then turn into hot,
clean glasses. When cool cover with paraffin.

686

LOQUAT JELLY

"Wash the loquats carefully, remove the blossom end, and
cut the fruit in half. Put the fruit in a preserving-kettle and
add water to cover. Cook gently till the loquats are tender.
Strain and measure the juice. Bring to the boiling-point, boil
five minutes, and add three-fourths of a cup of sugar for each
cup of juice. Boil until the jelly point is reached, strain, and
pour into hot clean glasses. When cool, cover with hot
parafl&n.

MINT JELLY

Wash the mint and chop it fine. To each cup of chopped
mint add one-fourth cup sugar and one-fourth cup water and
let it stand over night or for several hours. Place it over the
heat and bring it to the boiling-point.

Make apple jelly, using two-thirds cup sugar to each cup of
apple-juice. When the jelly test is observed, add green vegetable
coloring and one or two tablespoons of the prepared mint for
each quart of apple-juice.

QUINCE JELLY

Quinces require long cooking to become tender. They may
be cooked in the fireless cooker or under steam pressure ; in both
cases they acquire a rich, dark red color. Quinces have too little
acid and too much pectin to make a desirable jelly when the
juice is used alone. An equal amount or twice as much tart
apple improves the flavor. Equal parts of cranberry, quince,
and apple-juice give a jelly of rich red color and delicious flavor.

Cut the quinces in small pieces, add sufficient water to float
them and cook them until they are tender. Drain off the juice.
Use two-thirds as much sugar as fruit-juice. Proceed according
to the directions for making jelly. The pulp may be used for
conserve or butter.

ROSELLE JELLY

2 cups roselle-juice lYz cups sugar 2 teaspons lemon-juice

Wash roselles, cover them with water and cook until they
are tender. Strain, measure the juice, boil it for five minutes,
and add sugar and lemon-juice in the proportion given above.
Cook until it sheets from the spoon. Skim, and pour into hot,
clean glasses. When cool, cover with paraffin.

PICKLES AND RELISHES

WHEN foods are preserved with salt water or vinegar, the
process is called pickling. Sweet pickles, sour pickles,
and spiced pickles, either sweet or sour, are secured by varying
the spices and seasoning.

Both fruits and vegetables may be pickled whole, or in halves,
quarters, or slices. Cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, beets, carrots,
cauliflower and cabbage, peaches, pears, crabapples and grapes
are the vegetables and fruits most often preserved by pickling.

Preparing Food for Pickling

Clean vegetables carefully by scrubbing them in plenty of
clear water. Then give them a preliminary soaking in a solu-
tion of salt and water — (one-eighth to one-fourth cup salt to
one quart water) — for several hours or over night, or even for
several days. Some vegetables must be parboiled in salt water
before they are placed in the pickling solution. The salt draws
the water from the tissues and makes them crisp and firm and
better prepared to absorb the pickling solution.

Fruits need no preliminary treatment with salt and water.
Prepare them as for canning and place them in the pickling
solution.

Important Facts About Pickling

Use porcelain-lined, graniteware or aluminum kettles for
cooking pickles. Use a granite or wooden spoon for stirring or
lifting the pickles.

Too much salt toughens and shrivels the vegetables to be
pickled. Too strong vinegar may bleach the vegetable or cause
it to soften after it is pickled.

The best results are obtained if pickles are sealed in glass or
stone jars.

Varieties of Pickles

Sweet Pickles — ^Fruits, ripe cucumbers and melon-rinds are
pickled in a sweet, spiced vinegar solution.

Mixed Pickles — Various combinations of vegetables may be
pickled together as mixed pickles.

687

688

Relishes— Vegetables chopped fine and pickled are called
relishes.

Chow-Chow, Chili Sauce and Piccalilli are forms of
relishes.

Chutney — A sweet pickle highly seasoned, made from a
variety of chopped vegetables or vegetables and fruits, is called
a chutney. Chutneys are served with cold meats, sausages or
stews.

Catchup and Sauces — ^Many fruits and vegetables, espe-
cially tomatoes, are chopped fine, cooked in the pickling solu-
tion and strained to form a thick fluid or sauce.

Tomatoes, Peppers or other vegetables or fruits stuffed with
various mixtures and pickled are popular in some sections.

Dill Pickles and Sauerkraut — In these two forms of
pickk, vinegar is not used. The vegetable is allowed to fer-
ment in a salt solution and the only acid present is the lactic
acid formed by the action of the bacteria upon the sugar in
the vegetable. In dill pickles, the dill is added for flavor. Plain
salted cucumbers may be prepared in the same way without
the dill. They are removed from the brine, soaked over night
in cold water, and put in a pickling vinegar and prepared as
needed.

SPICED VINEGAR

1 quart vinegar 1 tablespoon white mustard

1 pint sugar seed

1 tablespoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon cloves

1 teaspoon allspice 1 teaspoon salt

The spices may be used either whole or ground, as one prefers
a clear or a dark pickle. If they are ground, they should be
placed in a muslin bag and removed from the solution before
the pickles are canned. If the pickle is one that is to be heated
in the vinegar, the vinegar and spices are not previously heated.
If the pickle is to be placed in the cans cold and the hot vinegar
is to be poured over it, the solution is brought slowly to the
boiling-point and then poured over the pickle.

PICKLED BEETS

Cook small beets until they are tender. Plunge them into
cold water and slip off the skins. Cover them with spiced
vinegar (recipe above), and simmer them for fifteen minutes.

PICKLES AND RELISHES 689

Seal them in clean, hot jars. Golden wax beans, the stems of
Swiss chard, or very small carrots may be pickled in the same
way.

CUCUMBER PICKLES

100 cucumbers 2 teaspoons salt

Vinegar . 1 cup sugar

1 ounce mustard seed 2 red peppers
1 ounce cloves

Use the smallest cucumbers you can procure, making two and
one-half inches the limit of length. Put the spices in thin
muslin bags, using at least two bags. Place the cucumbers in a
kettle with enough good vinegar of medium strength to cover
them. Place the bags of spices in the vinegar, together with
the salt and sugar, and the peppers cut in rings. Heat the vine-
gar as slowly as possible ; when it is scalding hot but not boiling,
the pickles are ready to set away. If this recipe is carefully fol-
lowed, satisfactory results will be obtained. If the vinegar
boils, the pickles will soften.

RIPE CUCUMBER SWEET PICKLES

8 large ripe cucumbers 3 pounds sugar

Ys pound stick cinnamon lYz pints vinegar

1 ounce whole cloves

Pare the cucumbers, quarter and take out the seeds, then
cut the quarters into medium-sized pieces. Scald in salted water
(two tablespoons salt to one quart water) , then drain and sim-
mer in clear water until they are tender but firm. Drain well.
Tie the spices in a bag and boil them with the vinegar and the
sugar for five minutes. Pour this mixture over the cucumbers,
cover the jar and set away. The next day pour off the sirup,
boil for ten minutes and pour over the cucumbers again. Flavor
is improved by repeating this process several times. Place the
pickles in clean, hot jars and seal.

GREEN CUCUMBER SWEET PICKLES

No. 1.

Sweet cucumber pickles made by the following recipe will
keep for several years without being sealed.

Choose very small cucumbers. Soak them in weak brine
(two tablespoons salt to one quart water) over night. Next

690

morning remove the cucumbers, scald the brine and skim it,
turn it over the pickles again and let them stand for two days.
Repeat this process on the third morning and let the pickles
stand two days longer. Then scald the brine each morning
until the eighth day, removing the pickles and pouring the hot
brine over them each time. On the eighth day, remove the
pickles from the brine, cover them with spiced vinegar, heat
thoroughly, and place them in clean, hot jars.

No. 2.

7 pounds cucumbers

1 ounce cinnamon

2 ounces cloves

1 tablespoon allspice
1 quart vinegar
3 pounds sugar

Pare, quarter and seed large cucumbers. Wash thoroughly,
then soak for four days in salt and water (two tablespoons salt
to one quart water), changing the brine every day. Put the
spices in a bag. Boil the cucumbers with the vinegar, sugar and
spice until the cucumbers are clear. It is best to watch care-
fully and remove each piece when it is clear. Pack in clean, hot
jars and seal.

MUSTARD PICKLES

1 pint cucumbers, about 2
inches long

1 pint large cucumbers, sliced

1 pint pickling onions

1 cup string beans, cut di-
agonally in 1-inch pieces

1 pint small green tomatoes

1 pint cauliflower, cut in
small pieces

3 red peppers, chopped

3 green peppers, chopped

1 cup small carrots, or sliced
carrots halved or quartered
1^ cups white sugar

4 tablespoons flour

Yz tablespoon turmeric
1 teaspoon celery salt
Vinegar

4 tablespoons powdered
mustard

All the vegetables should be tender. Soak all the vegetables
in brine (one cup salt to one gallon water) over night. Drain
and soak them in clear water for three hours. Mix a sufficient
amount of vinegar and water, in equal quantities, to cover the
vegetables. Allow them to stand in this vinegar for one hour,
then scald them in this liquid.

Make a dressing by mixing the sugar, flour, mustard, turmeric
and celery salt and adding three pints of hot vinegar slowly,
stirring to make a smooth paste. Cook the mixture over a pan
of hot water until the sauce thickens.

PICKLES AND RELISHES 691

Drain the vegetables thoroughly. Pour the mustard dressing
over them while they are hot, and simmer them for five min-
utes. Pack the pickle into hot, clean jars and seal.

DILL PICKLES

Choose cucumbers over five inches in length. Wash them
well and pack them in earthenware jars or wooden casks. On
each layer of cucumbers place a thin layer of dill, stalks, leaves
and seed balls included. When all are packed in, cover them
with a brine solution carrying forty per cent, salt (approxi-
mately two pounds salt to three quarts water). Place a layer
of grape or horseradish leaves on top and weigh the whole down
with a clean plate and stone. Two or three weeks will be re-
quired for curing.

SPANISH TOMATOES

24 green tomatoes, sliced 1 tablespoon peppercorns

1 large onion 1 tablespoon mustard seed

2 green peppers 1 cup brown sugar
54 cup salt 2 quarts vinegar

Alternate layers of sliced tomatoes with layers of sliced onion
and chopped green peppers, in a large crock, and sprinkle each
layer with salt. Let stand twenty-four hours, then drain. Put
the vegetables in a preserving-kettle, add the spices and sugar
and cover with the vinegar. Cook gently for forty-five min-
utes. Pack in clean, hot jars and seal.

PICKLED ONIONS

Peel small onions until the white is reached. Scald in strong
salted water (four tablespoons salt to one quart water), then
drain. Pack in jars and sprinkle white mustard and pepper
over the onions. Cover them with a boiling hot solution of
vinegar. When cold, put in clean, cold jars and seal. One
tablespoon of salad oil may be added to the top of the mixture.

PICKLED SWEET RED PEPPERS

Wash the outside of the peppers thoroughly and wipe them
dry. Cut a slice from the stem end and remove the seeds. Cut
into thin strips with the scissors, or into long ribbons, working

692

around and around the pepper. Scald well and then drop into
ice-water to crisp them. Drain well. Make a sirup, using a
proportion of one cup of sugar to two cups of vinegar. Put the
peppers into clean, hot jars, fill to overflowing with hot sirup,
and seal.

PEPPER MANGOES

Green peppers 2 tablespoons white mustard

Brine seed

1 quart chopped cabbage 1 tablespoon cinnamon

1 tablespoon salt 1 cup sugar

1 tablespoon cloves Vinegar

Remove the stem ends of green peppers, carefully extract the
seeds and midribs and lay the peppers in strongly salted water
(one-half cup salt to two quarts water) for twenty-four hours.
Chop the cabbage fine and add the salt, mustard seed, cloves,
cinnamon and sugar, mixing them well. Drain the peppers,
stuff them with the prepared cabbage, replace the pepper caps
and tie them in position. Pack the peppers in a stone jar and
cover them with strong cold vinegar. They will be ready to
use in two or three weeks.

PICKLED SECKEL PEARS

7 pounds Seckel pears 1 tablespoon cinnamon

1 pint vinegar ,1 tablespoon allspice

1 pint water 1 tablespoon cloves
3 Yz pounds sugar

Pare the fruit, remove the blossom end, but leave the stem on.
Make a sirup of the vinegar, water, sugar and spice, boiled for
five minutes. Add the fruit and cook until clear. Seal in hot,
clean jars.

GINGER PEARS

5 pounds hard pears Yy cup preserved ginger

3 cups water 3 lemons, juice and grated

5 pounds sugar rind

Remove the skin and cores from the pears and cut the fruit
in slices lengthwise. Add the water and cook until the pears
are tender. Add the sugar, juice and grated rind of the
lemons, the ginger cut in small pieces, and simmer the mixture
until it is thick. Pour into clean, hot jars and seal.

PICKLES AND RELISHES 693

PICKLED CITRON

2 pounds citron 1 lemon

2 pounds sugar 1 tablespoon cinnamon

1 pint vinegar 1 teaspoon cloves

1 pint water 1 teaspoon allspice

Pare the citrons, and cut in medium thin slices. Soak over
night in salt water (two tablespoons salt to one quart water).
Drain off the brine and cook the citron in clear water until it is
tender. Add the citron to the hot pickling solution made from
the vinegar, sugar and spices, and boil it rapidly until it be-
comes clear. Seal it in hot, clean jars.

SPICED CURRANTS

4 quarts currants 1 teaspoon allspice

2 pounds white sugar 1 teaspoon cloves

1 pint vinegar 2 teaspoons cinnamon

Stem the fruit, and wash it. Make a sirup of the sugar, vine-
gar and spices and boil for five minutes. Add the fruit and
cook until the mixture is thick and clear. Seal in clean, hot
jars.

SPICED PLUMS

4 quarts plums 1 pint vinegar

3 pounds sugar 1 tablespoon cloves

1 tablespoon ground cinna- 1 tablespoon allspice
mon

Make a sirup from the vinegar, sugar and spices. Boil for
five minutes. Prick each plum with a fork and pour the boiling
sirup over the fruit. Let the whole stand three days, then skim
out the plums, boil down the sirup until quite thick, add the
plums and heat to boiling. Seal in clean, hot jars.

PICKLED PEACHES OR PEARS

No. 1.

4 quarts peaches or pears Yz ounce stick cinnamon

2 pounds white sugar y^ ounce whole cloves
2 cups vinegar

Dip the peaches quickly in hot water and remove the skins.
Remove skins from the pears by paring. Boil the sugar, the

694

vinegar, and the cinnamon for twenty minutes. Place a few
of the peaches at a time in the sirup, and cook them until they
are tender. Pack them into clean jars, placing a few cloves in
each jar. Adjust the rubbers, and fill each jar to overflowing
with the hot sirup. Adjust the covers, and seal the jars imme-
diately.

No. 2.

54 peck peaches or pears 1 pint vinegar

2 pounds brown sugar 1 ounce stick cinnamon

Cloves

Select large, firm peaches or pears and prepare as in preceding
recipe. Make a sirup by boiling the brown sugar, vinegar and
cinnamon together for five minutes. Stick two cloves in each
fruit, put them into the sirup and cook until soft. This sirup
is sufficient for a half peck of fruit, but it is better to put only
half this quantity into the sirup at a time.

PICKLED WATERMELON RIND

2 pounds watermelon-rind 1 lemon, sliced thin

2 pounds sugar 1 tablespoon cinnamon
1 pint vinegar 1 teaspoon cloves

1 pint water 1 teaspoon allspice

Soak the watermelon-rind over night in salt water (one-
fourth cup salt to one quart water) . Drain off the brine. Cook
the watermelon-rind in clear water until it is tender.

Make a hot pickling solution of the other ingredients, add the
drained rind, and boil it rapidly until it becomes clear. The
spices should be tied in bags and removed before the pickle is
bottled. Seal it in clean, hot jars.

Green tomatoes, cut crosswise in thin slices, may be used
instead of the watermelon-rind.

RED PEPPER RELISH

12 red peppers 1 quart vinegar

12 green peppers 2 cups sugar

3 large onions 1J4 tablespoons salt

Split the peppers and remove the seeds. Chop the peppers
coarsely, pour boiling water over them and let stand for five
minutes. Drain, pour more boiling water over them, and let

PICKLES AND RELISHES 695

stand ten minutes. Drain and add the chopped onions. Boil
the vinegar, sugar, and salt for five minutes, and add all the
other ingredients. Cook the mixture ten minutes after it has
come to a boil. Pack in clean, hot glass jars.

QUICK CHRISTMAS RELISH

2 cups chopped, pickled beets Salt and pepper
5 tablespoons horseradish Mustard

1 cup chopped red cabbage Vinegar from pickled beets

Mix beets, horseradish and cabbage. Moisten with the vine-
gar left from the pickled beets and season with salt and pepper,
and a little dry mustard. Toss together and serve lightly piled
in a mound.

DIXIE RELISH

1 pint chopped sweet green 2 tablespoons salt

peppers 4 tablespoons mustard seed

1 pint chopped sweet red 2 tablespoons celery seed

peppers 3 or 4 whole hot red peppers

1 quart chopped cabbage ^ cup sugar

1 pint white onions 1 quart vinegar

Soak green and red peppers in brine for twenty- four hours,
using one cup salt to one gallon water. Take from the brine
and freshen in clear, cold water, from one to two hours. Drain
well, cut open, remove seeds and white sections, and chop the
peppers. Put cabbage and onions through the food-chopper
separately and measure before mixing. Add chopped cabbage
and onions to chopped peppers. Add salt, spices, whole peppers,
sugar and vinegar. Let the mixture stand over night in a
covered crock or enameled vessel. Drain, and heat the liquid.
When hot add the other ingredients and cook for ten minutes.
Seal in clean, hot jars.

CORN RELISH

18 ears sweet corn 1 quart vinegar

1 small cabbage 2 cups brown sugar

1 cup chopped celery Yz cup salt

4 onions 3 tablespoons mustard

3 large green peppers

Blanch the corn for two minutes and cut the kernels from
the ear. Chop the cabbage, celery, onions and peppers. Com-

696

bine all the ingredients and cook until the vegetables are tender
(twenty-five to thirty minutes) . Seal in clean, hot jars.

BEET RELISH

1 quart chopped cabbage 2 cups vinegar

1 quart chopped cooked beets 1 cup sugar

1 cup grated horseradish Salt

Combine the cabbage, beets and horseradish and season with
salt. Scald the vinegar, dissolve the sugar in it and add it to
the first mixture. Cook until clear. Seal in clean, hot jars.
This is particularly good with mutton.

No. 1. PICCALILLI

1 peck green tomatoes 1 cup sugar

6 green peppers 1 tablespoon cloves

6 onions 1 tablespoon cinnamon

1 cup salt 4 tablespoons allspice

1 cup horseradish Vinegar

Chop the tomatoes, peppers and onions very fine. Stir all
together with the salt, and let the mixture stand over night. In
the morning pour off the water, add the remaining ingredients
and cover with vinegar. Cook slowly until tender, tasting at
the last, and adding more salt if needed. Seal in clean, hot
jars.

No. 2.

1 quart green tomatoes

Yz cup salt

1 head celery

3 cups vinegar

2 sweet red peppers

1 pound brown sugar

2 sweet green peppers

1 teaspoon mustard

2 large mild onions

1 teaspoon turmeric

1 small head cabbage

Chop the vegetables, cover with salt, and let stand over night.
In the morning, drain and press in a cloth to remove all the
liquid possible. Add the vinegar, sugar, and spices and sim-
mer until clear. Seal in clean, hot jars.

PICKLES AND RELISHES 697

No. 1. CHOW-CHOW

4 quarts green tomatoes 1 quart vinegar

54 cup salt 1 cup brown or white sugar

6 small onions Yz teaspoon cinnamon

1 pint cucumbers J/2 teaspoon ground allspice

1 green pepper 1 tablespoon ground mustard

1 bunch celery-
Chop the tomatoes, add the salt and mix. Let stand over
night. Next morning drain the tomatoes and add the onions,
cucumbers, pepper, and celery, chopped fine, the vinegar, sugar
and spices. Put the mixture in an enamel kettle, and cook
until clear. Stir well with a wooden spoon, pack in hot, clean
jars and seal.

Ground spices make a dark pickle. Whole spices may be
used; they should be tied in a cloth bag and removed before the
pickles are sealed.

No. 2.

18 green tomatoes Yz cup salt

8 cucumbers 2 quarts vinegar

5 dozen small green onions 1 cup brown sugar

1 pound green string-beans 2 tablespoons turmeric powder

1 cauliflower 4 tablespoons mustard seed

1 bunch celery 1 tablespoon cloves

3 chopped red peppers 1 tablespoon pepper

Dice the tomatoes, celery, and cucumbers, skin the onions and
remove the tops, cut the beans in small pieces and separate the
cauliflower into flowerets. Put all the vegetables, including the
chopped red peppers, into an earthenware crock or bowl and
sprinkle with the salt. Let stand twenty-four hours, then drain
off the liquid. Heat the vinegar with the sugar and spices
to the boiling-point, add the vegetables and cook until they
are tender. Pack the pickles in clean, hot jars and seal.

CHILI SAUCE

12 large ripe tomatoes 2 tablespoons sugar

2 large onions 1 tablespoon cinnamon

4 green peppers 2Y2 cups vinegar
2 tablespoons salt

Peel the tomatoes and onions and chop them fine. Chop
the peppers very fine. Stir all together, and add salt, sugar.

698

cinnamon and vinegar. Boil for one hour, stirring well, and
seal in clean, hot jars. This sauce gives a delicious zest to any
sort of cold meat.

No. 1. TOMATO CHUTNEY

4 pounds ripe tomatoes 2 cups brown sugar

1 pound pared, chopped 1 cup seeded raisins

apples 1 teaspoon cinnamon

3 onions, chopped fine 1 teaspoon mustard

1 pint strong vinegar * ]/2 teaspoon cayenne

2 tablespoons salt

Chop the vegetables and then the apples. Combine the in-
gredients and cook until the chutney is thick and clear. Seal
it in hot, clean jars.

No. 2 — If a hotter, more highly flavored chutney is desired,
add to the above recipe

Yz teaspoon cayenne 2 teaspoons mustard

Yz teaspoon allspice 12 cloves garlic

1 teaspoon cloves

CRANBERRY CATCHUP

2Y2 pounds cranberries 1 tablespoon cinnamon

Vinegar 1 teaspoon ground cloves

2% cups sugar

"Wash and pick over the cranberries. Cover them with vine-
gar and cook until they burst. Force through a siqyq. Add
the other ingredients, return the mixture to the heat and sim-
mer until thick. Seal in clean, hot jars. Serve as a relish with
poultry or meat.

GRAPE CATCHUP

4 pounds grapes 2 teaspoons cloves

2 pounds sugar 2 teaspoons allspice

1 pint vinegar 2 tablespoons cinnamon

Wash the grapes and remove them from the stems. Place
them in a pan and steam them without water, until they are
soft. Put the fruit through a sieve, add the other ingredients,
and simmer the mixture for twenty minutes. Seal it in clean,
hot jars.

PICKLES AND RELISHES 699

MUSHROOM CATCHUP

10 pounds mushrooms 1 teaspoon ground allspice

Yz cup salt 1 teaspoon ground cloves

1 cup vinegar 1 teaspoon horseradish

Few grains cayenne 1 small onion, chopped

Take the freshly gathered mushrooms, wipe them carefully
with a damp cloth, chop them and mix them thoroughly with
the salt. Let them stand over night. Mash them, and to this
pulp and juice add the chopped onion, spices and vinegar. Put
in a kettle and boil slowly until thick. If desired, this catchup
may be strained. If too thick, thin with vinegar. Seal in
clean, hot jars.

COLD TOMATO CATCHUP

1 peck ripe tomatoes

Pepper

1 pint vinegar

Garlic

Salt

Allspice

Cloves

This is a recipe used in the kitchen of General "Washington.

"Wash the tomatoes and force them through a wire sieve, then
strain through a jelly-bag. The liquid is not used in the
catchup.

Thin the pulp with the vinegar. Season with salt, pepper,
garlic, allspice, and cloves. Bottle in sterilized containers and
seal. This catchup retains the taste of the fresh tomatoes and is
an excellent flavoring for soups and sauces.

OLD VIRGINIA CATCHUP

1 peck green tomatoes 1 ounce cloves

Yz peck white onions Yz cup dry mustard

3 ounces white mustard Ya cup water

seed 1 ounce black pepper

1 ounce allspice 1 ounce celery seed

1 pound brown sugar 5^1^ Vinegar

Chop the tomatoes and onions, sprinkle with salt, and let
stand three hours. Drain well and put the pulp in a preserv-
ing-kettle with the other ingredients. Cover with vinegar, and
boil slowly for one hour. Seal in clean, hot jars. Less mustard
may be used if a less hot catchup is desired.

700

PICKLED HORSERADISH

1 cup grated horseradish Yz teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons white sugar 3 cups cold vinegar

To the grated horseradish add the sugar, salt and vinegar.
Mix well and seal in clean, cold jars.

TOMATO PUREE

1 gallon tomatoes 1 bay-leaf

1 small onion, sliced 2 teaspoons salt

1 stalk celery or celery leaves J4 teaspoon paprika

Cook the mixture until the tomatoes are tender and put it
through a strainer. Boil the pulp until it is reduced to one-
half the original volume. Seal it in hot, clean jars.

The culls left from canning tomatoes may be made into soup
or puree.

TOMATO PASTE

Spread thick tomato puree on dry plates or flat granite pans
which have been brushed with unsalted fat. As soon as a film
forms over the top, loosen the paste with a spatula^ and turn
it on to a screen covered with cheese-cloth. Dry it in the sun
or a very slow oven. When it is so dry that it can be handled
without sticking, roll it in paraffin paper, fold under the ends
of the paper, and store it in a tin box or a glass jar.

The paste may be used for soup, sauces, scalloped dishes, etc.
Soak it in cold water until it is soft, before adding it to any
hot mixture. One teaspoon of the paste makes one cup of soup.

BRANDIED PEACHES

1 peck peaches, skinned Sugar to half their weight

1 quart brandy

Alternate in stone jar, layers of peaches with sugar until
filled. Add brandy. Cover closely, using cheesecloth or un-
bleached muslin under the jar cover. Can be used after 1 week.
Keep in cool place.

CASSEROLE AND OVEN
COOKERY

THE expression "en casserole" Is sometimes misunderstood
becaiise the word "casserole" is used in two quite different
ways by writers on domestic subjects. Properly speaking, a
casserole is the coarse clay saucepan, so common in France,
in which meats and vegetables are not only cooked but served
on the table. In its other usage the word is applied to a case
or mold of potato, rice or fried bread, inside of which is placed
some preparation of meat or vegetables. The word in this case
really signifies a border or croustade. Directions for using this
second form of casserole will be found in the chapter on entrees.

Varieties of Casseroles

Casseroles of different sizes, shapes and materials, are con-
venient additions to the cooking equipment, and should be
chosen with consideration for the needs of the family. They
come in many sizes from the individual ramekin up to one
that will hold two chickens. They may be had in various
shapes — oval and round, shallow and deep. They are made in
a variety of materials — glass, vitrified china, earthenware, iron
and aluminum — and in a color-range that allows one to choose
according to personal preference — brown, yellow, green, blue
and mixtures.

Care of Casseroles

Casseroles will last indefinitely if properly treated. It is wise
to avoid a sudden and great change in temperature, such as
occurs when a casserole is taken from a hot oven and placed in
a wet sink. It is not advisable to set a glass or earthenware
casserole over a high flame without an asbestos mat under it. A
new casserole may be tempered and made more tough by pour-
ing cold water into and about it, and bringing it gradually to
the boiling-point.

701

702

Advantages of Cooking In a Casserole

The Casserole Saves Dish-Washing, because it makes it
possible to bring food to the table in the dish in which it was
cooked. Frequently, also, it contains a "one-dish meal" which
eliminates all but the one cooking dish.

The Casserole Makes it Possible to Use Left-Overs in
attractive, palatable combinations, to cook tough meats tender,
and to prepare vegetables in an almost unlimited variety of
ways. Any vegetable may be boiled, steamed, baked, scalloped
or creamed, and cabbage, cucumbers, eggplant, onions, peppers,
potatoes or tomatoes may be stuflFed and cooked in the casserole.

Food Cooked in this Way Needs Little Watching, it
may be kept warm and still attractive if the meal is delayed,
and there is no loss of vegetable or meat juices. These juices con-
tain a valuable part of the food which is often thrown away,
especially in the case of vegetables that are boiled.

A Whole Meal May be Cooking in the Oven in the
casserole while the oven is being used for some other purpose,
such as baking cookies. The cover of the casserole should fit
well into the dish, so that it is practically airtight, a fact that
should be borne in mind when the casserole is purchased. If
the oven must be kept very hot for something else, set the
casserole in a pan of water so that the food within will sim-
mer, not boil. As the water becomes hot, take out part of it
and add cool water to keep it at the desired temperature.

CHICKEN EN CASSEROLE

1 chicken 12 potato balls

Butter, salad oil, or other fat 1 carrot, sliced

1 pint rich brown stock 6 small onions

12 button mushrooms Salt, pepper, paprika

Wash the chicken and cut it up. Saute the pieces in a little
fat until well browned on all sides. Place in a greased casserole,
add brown stock, cover and cook in a slow to moderate oven
(350° F.) for an hour.

When the chicken has been cooking for an hour, saute the
carrot slices, the potato balls, the onions and the mushrooms
in a little fat, stirring them lightly around until they are well
browned. Put these with the chicken in the casserole, season
with salt, pepper and paprika, add more salt if needed, cover

CASSEROLE AND OVEN COOKERY

703

and cook for three-fourths of an hour, then remove the cover
and allow the chicken to brown before serving.

PIGEONS EN CASSEROLE

Pigeons or squabs 1 Spanish onion

Bacon Veal broth or white stock

3 tablespoons butter or other Vegetables, as desired
fat Flour

Clean and wash young pigeons and tie a strip of bacon around
each one, or lard the breasts if preferred. Place the butter or
other fat in a casserole, slice a mild Spanish onion over the fat,
arrange the pigeons on the onion in the casserole, cover the
casserole and set over a low heat with an asbestos mat under
the casserole to protect it from direct heat and to insure slow
cooking. Cook on top of the stove for fifteen minutes. Add
enough veal broth or white stock to half cover the pigeons and
set in the oven (350° P.) to cook until tender (2-2^ hrs.).
When nearly done, vegetables may be added. At serving-time
thicken the liquor in the casserole by stirring into it flour mixed
smooth in a little water, allowing one tablespoon of flour for
each cup of liquid.

STEAK EN CASSEROLE

3 tablespoons butter or Pepper

other fat Turnip balls

3 tablespoons flour Carrot balls

2 cups stock Potato balls

Salt Small onions

Parsley 2 pounds of iy2-mch. steak

Make a brown sauce of the fat, flour, stock and seasoning.
Add balls of turnip, carrot, potato and onions, which have
been previously cooked in a little brown stock until tender.
For each person, allow a half-dozen little balls of each of these
vegetables and two small onions. Keep this sauce hot while
you pan-broil the steak imtil about half done, then transfer
steak to heated casserole, pour vegetables and sauce over steak,
cover, and place in oven (3 50° F.) until steak is sulSSciently
cooked. When ready to servey sprinkle the steak with finely
chopped parsley.

704

CHOPPED BEEF EN CASSEROLE

2 pounds clod of beef Boiled beets

% cup tomato catchup Salt

Yi teaspoon tabasco sauce

Mix chopped beef with tomato catchup. Add tabasco sauce,
using more if desired. Season well with salt. Place in casserole
and bake (350° F.) slowly two to two and one-half hours,
basting frequently with water and tabasco or Worcestershire
sauce. A few strips of bacon across the top will add to the
richness, and improve the flavor. Garnish with quartered beets.

TAMALE PIE EN CASSEROLE

1 cup yellow corn-meal 2 cups chopped beef

6 cups boiling water 2 cups tomatoes

1 teaspoon salt 2 pimientos

1 medium-sized onion Cayenne

2 tablespoons fat

Cook corn-meal, water, and salt, as for mush, for about
thirty minutes. Chop onion and fry in fat till brown. Add
meat and fry until red color disappears. Add tomatoes, pi-
mientos, and cayenne. Line oiled casserole with mush, put
meat mixture in center, cover with mush, and bake in a
moderate oven (350° F.; 2 -214 lirs.).

TURBANS OF FISH EN CASSEROLE

Prepare slices of halibut or other fish about the size of one's
hand, with all bone and skin removed and sufficiently thin to
roll easily. Trim all to uniform size, dip each in melted butter
or other fat, squeeze over them lemon-juice and onion-juice,
and sprinkle with salt. Beginning at the widest end, roll the
slice of fish and secure with two toothpicks. Set the turban in
a greased and heated casserole and pour in a little stock made
by simmering the bones and trimmings of the fish in a little
water, together with a few slices each of carrot and onion.
Cook in a moderate oven (350° F.) basting occasionally.
When done, drain off the liquid and thicken it with flour mixed
with cold water. Return to the casserole, and reheat.

CASSEROLE AND OVEN COOKERY 705

HUNGARIAN GOULASH EN CASSEROLE

4 onions 12 small onions

2 pounds veal 1 cup carrot slices

Bacon fat 1 cup turnip slices

1 Yz pints brown stock Salt

Pepper Paprika

1 pint potato balls

Slice the onion and cut the raw veal in cubes. Cook together
in a little bacon fat, until brown. Transfer to casserole, pour
over it the brown stock and season with pepper and paprika.
Place in moderate oven (3 50° F.). Add more fat to that in
the frying-pan and brown in this the potato balls, small onions,
and slices of carrot and turnip. Add the vegetables and salt to
the casserole when the meat is partly cooked. Finish the cook-
ing, adding more stock if necessary. This dish should cook two
hours. If the broth is too thin when ready to serve, thicken
slightly with browned flour rubbed smooth in water.

LAMB EN CASSEROLE

6 slices of lamb 1 pint vegetable balls

2 tablespoons melted butter or 12 small onions
other fat Seasoning

2 cups brown stock

Cut thick slices from a leg of lamb and sear, browning both
sides. Brush with melted fat and place in casserole with one-
half to one cup of brown stock. Cook over heat or in a mod-
erate oven (350° F. ) until tender, then add potato balls, carrot
balls and onions, which have been previously cooked. Add more
brown stock, salt, pepper and paprika.

PORK CHOPS EN CASSEROLE

6 pork chops V2 cup brown sugar

6 sweet potatoes 1 to 2 cups milk

Salt and pepper

Place a layer of sweet potatoes, sliced crosswise, in a greased
casserole, dust with salt, pepper, and a little brown sugar; con-
tinue the layers until the casserole is about two-thirds full.
Heat the milk and pour it over the potatoes; it should just cover
them. Place the pork chops on top of the potatoes, cover and

7o6

bake (at 3 50° F.) for an hour, then remove tke cover and
season with salt and pepper. Leave the cover ofif and cook until
the chops are tender and nicely browned on top.

Four tart apples^ pared, cored and cut in eighths, used in
place of the sweet potatoes, make an. excellent casserole dish
with pork chops.

CALFS LIVER EN CASSEROLE

1 pouad calf's liver 3 cups potato balls

6 slices bacon 1 pint brown stock

1 cup button mushrooms

Wash the calf's liver thoroughly and wipe dry. Fry some
bacon in a pan, remove, place the liver in the bacon fat, and sear
each side thoroughly. Transfer to a casserole, add slices of
bacon, brown stock, and sauted mushrooms. Cook for one hour
and a half in the oven (350° F.) adding more stock if necessary.
Just before serving add potato balls which have been fried in
deep fat (395° F.) and drained.

CASSEROLE OF RICE AND LIVER

1 cup rice 1 teaspoon caramel

1 quart water 2 tablespoons browned fkxur

2 tablespoons butter or other 2 tablespoons fat
fat Crumbs

1 pound lamb's or calf's liver Salt and pepper

2 cups stock

Boil the rice in the water and mash smooth with the fat.
Season with salt and pepper to taste. Line a well -greased
casserole with the mixture, pressing the paste firmly against
bottom and sides, and leaving a large hollow in the center. Set
in a cold place until firm. Meanwhile boil the liver, drain,
chop fine and season with salt. Heat the soup stock, seasoned
with caramel (See Index). Make a brown sauce with the fat,
browned flour and soup stock, and add the minced liver. Fill
the hollow in the center of the rice with the liver mixture,
sprinkle with crumbs and brown in the oven.

CASSEROLE AND OVEN COOKERY 707

RICE EN CASSEROLE

2 cups chopped cold meat 2 tablespoons butter or other

3 eggs fat

Yi cup milk 2 tablespoons tomato catchup

2 cups boiled rice Salt

Celery-salt

Season the meat and pile it in the center of an oiled casserole.
Mix the eggs, milk, rice, fat and seasonings. Pour over the
meat, cover, and bake (350° F.) for twenty minutes.

SPANISH RICE

^ cup rice Vz cup chopped green pepper
2 tablespoons fat or pimientos

5 cups water Salt

2 onions Pepper

2 cups tomatoes Paprika

Fry the rice in the fat until brown, then add water and boil
until soft. Drain. Saute the onions in a little fat; mix with
tomatoes and chopped peppers or pimientos, and add to the
rice. Add seasoning, and place in a greased casserole. Bake
(350° F.) for thirty minutes.

RICE A LA CREOLE

1 cup chopped boiled ham 2 cups £ne soft crumbs

1 onion 2 tablespoons butter or other

1 cup boiled rice fat

1 can tomatoes Celery-salt

Pepper and salt

Mix ingredients in the order given. Bake in a greased
casserole for one-half hour (350° F.). This dish makes a good
one-dish meal.

SPAGHETTI, SPANISH MICHEL

2 cups spaghetti 1 onion

1 quart tomatoes, fresh or 1 green pepper

canned 54 teaspoon pepper

Yz cup boiled ham Y2 teaspoon salt

Break the spaghetti into inch pieces. Cook in one quart
boiling water until tender, add the tomatoes, and cook fifteen

7o8

minutes longer. Remove the fat from the ham and try it out.
Dice onion and green pepper, and fry slowly in this fat until
tender. Chop the ham and add it with the onion, green pepper
and seasoning to the spaghetti and tomatoes. Put in casserole
and bake fifteen minutes in a moderate oven (3 50° -400° F.).

SCALLOPED HAM AND POTATOES

6 potatoes 1 green pepper (may be

1 pound raw smoked ham omitted)

3 cups milk (or more) Flour

Cover the bottom of an oiled baking-dish with sliced, raw
potatoes. Sprinkle with flour add inch-square pieces of ham.
Repeat until the dish is full. Pour in as much milk as the dish
will hold. Bake (3 50° -400° F.) until the potatoes are tender
{I'lYz hrs.). Chopped green pepper adds to the flavor,

SUMMER CASSEROLE

6 hard-cooked eggs 2 teaspoons salt

3 ripe tomatoes lYz cups milk

3 tablespoons butter or other Yz cup grated cheese

fat Buttered crumbs
3 tablespoons flour

Cut hard-cooked eggs in half and arrange around the edge
of a greased casserole or baking-dish. Slice peeled ripe tomatoes
in the center of the dish. Make a white sauce of the milk, fat
and flour. Add cheese, and stir over a very low fire until the
cheese is well mixed and smooth. Pour over tomatoes and eggs.
Cover with crumbs and bake twenty minutes in a moderate
oven (3 50°-400° F.).

The centers of the tomatoes may be scooped out, and a whole
t^^ placed in each, if desired.

BANANAS EN CASSEROLE

6 small bananas 1 cup boiling water

1 glass currant or grape jelly 1 lemon

Peel the bananas. Remove the coarse threads and divide in
quarters, cutting first crosswise and then lengthwise. Place in
a greased casserole and pour over them a sauce made by melting
the currant or grape jelly in the boiling water, and mixing with

CASSEROLE AND OVEN COOKERY ^on

it the juice of a lemon. Cover the casserole and bake in a hot
oven (400°-450° F.) until the bananas are tender. The cover
may be removed at the last moment and the bananas sprinkled
with granulated sugar and allowed to brown slightly. Serve
as an entree with game, mutton, or beef.

AU GRATIN DISHES EN CASSEROLE

Au gratin dishes, many of which are given in this book, are
particularly adapted to the casserole. The mixtures of chicken,
sweetbreads, fish, macaroni and vegetables may be entirely pre-
pared, then placed in the casserole, topped with buttered
crumbs and cheese and placed in a hot oven (400° -450° F.)
to brown.

Eggs Yorkshire —

y2 cup fat 1 cup pastry flour

2 eggs, beaten 1 teaspoon baking powder

1 cup milk 1/^ teaspoon salt

4 hard or soft cooked eggs

Place casserole with fat in oven to melt. Remove fat to use
in batter, leaving enough to grease casserole thoroughly. Re-
turn casserole to oven to heat. Beat eggs and milk thoroughly;
add baking powder, flour, salt and fat and beat mixture until
smooth. Cover bottom of casserole with layer of eggs (whole,
halved, quartered or sliced). Pour in batter until casserole is
about Yi full and place in hot oven (450° F.) for 15 minutes
until mixture begins to expand and brown slightly, then reduce
to 350° F. for 25 minutes. The batter should puff nicely during
baking, making an attractive uneven broken surface. Serve at
once from baking dish.

Salmon Casserole —

1 1 -pound can salmon 2 cups prepared biscuit

J/3 cup milk flour

y2 pound American cheese % cup milk

Flake salmon in casserole. Melt cheese in top of a double
boiler; add Ys cup milk while stirring. Pour over salmon. Mix
biscuit flour and % cup milk and make biscuits. Cut each in
half and place around edge of casserole. Bake in hot oven
(425° F.) until lightly browned.

COOKING FOR TWO

THE problem here is really more one of planning and
marketing than of actual cooking. No roast leg of lamb
or baked ham of course, no standing rib roast of beef, not
often a whole watermelon. But it is possible to buy cuts of
meat and to plan the other marketing so that to all intents and
purposes these favorites may form part of the menu even for
the smallest family. Moreover, many dishes which are too
expensive to be served to a large and hungry family are often
possible for a family of two.

Cooking Equipment for Two

It is impossible to cook small quantities satisfactorily in large
dishes; so the first thing to do is to buy dishes and utensils of
the right size. The following list is given as a suggestion.

A small casserole or a large ramekin for soiiffles and casserole dishes,
to be used either for the meat course or for baked puddings.

Individual ramekins and custard cups.

A small frying-pan for cooking eggs, bacon, etc.

A small baking-pan for roasting meat.

Small saucepans and kettles for vegetables and other boiled foods.
The saucepans that fit together, two or three on a single burner, are
especially good for the small family.

A deep pot of small diameter for deep fat frying and a wire
strainer that will fit down inside it to be used as a frying basket.

A double boiler holding one quart.

MuflSn pans in sets of six.

Layer cake and pie pans five or six inches in diameter.

A small square or oblong shallow pan for baking sheets of cake,
ginger-bread, etc.

A small loaf pan for breads, loaf cakes and meat loaves.

A set of skewers for serving "en brochette."

A cup sized egg beater.

Small bowls.

An ice cream freezer either of the crank or vacuum type, holding
from one pint to one quart.

The small ovens for use on top of the stove are very convenient
for baking two or three potatoes or apples or a small dish of rice
pudding, custard and similar desserts.

710

COOKING FOR TWO 711

How to Modify Recipes

Most of the recipes in the American Woman's Cook Book are
planned for six j>ersons. Many of them can be cut down to one-
half or one-third and made exactly as though the entire quantity
were used. It is often more advantageous to cut the recipe in
half rather than thirds, since it is sometimes harder to work
with small amounts and there is relatively greater waste from
food adhering to pans and spoons.

In Cooking Over Direct Fire or in the oven, the loss of
moisture will be comparatively larger than in the larger quan-
tity recipe, so a little more Hquid may be used. This is true
particularly in recipes that use cream sauces and in meat casse-
roles.

Recipes Including Eggs are more easily made if they can
be divided to the one or two egg quantity. If less than one
egg has to be used, there are two ways of doing it: Either use
a very small egg or beat the egg slightly and divide it, keeping
the unused portion for some other dish. It might be well to
say, however, that a little more egg than the recipe calls for
will not generally do any harm. So if you are not considering
economy you will be safe in using a whole egg even though the
rest of the ingredients are cut down.

With Yeast Dough it is advisable to use a larger quantity
of yeast, proportionately, than would be used in the full recipe.
For instance, if the recipe calls for one yeast cake, and you are
cutting it down to one-third or one-half, it will be wise to use
the whole yeast cake, or the greater part of it, in order to hasten
the process. Those recipes which demand no kneading are
easier than the kneaded ones to handle in small quantities.

For Soups, allow from one-half cup to one cup for each
person, the amount depending upon the kind of soup you are
making and whether you are serving it in cups or plates.

For Desserts, allow from one-half cup to three-quarters cup
for each serving.

Of Creamed Dishes, vegetables, etc., about two-thirds cup
is served, but an allowance for a second portion should be made.

712

To Use One Recipe in Different Ways

Often a full recipe can be made and used in different ways
for several occasions.

The Recipe for Creamed Chicken, for instance, will
provide enough for an au gratin oven dish.

A Rich Baking Powder Biscuit Dough will make short-
cakes for one meal, toasted biscuits for another, and, if baked
in a sheet and covered with cinnamon and sugar, coffee-cake for
a third.

Pie Dough will make pies, tart shells for meat or dessert,
cheese strips for soup or salad, and tiny jam turnovers for after-
noon tea.

Cake Batter may be baked as loaves, layers, sheets or cup
cakes, as cottage pudding, to be served hot with a sauce, or as
a ring in which to serve fruit, jelly or a creamed dessert. A
fruit cake mixture may be baked as fruit cake or steamed in
small molds and served hot with sauce.

How to Use Left-Overs

The problem of cooking for two depends to a great extent
for its solution upon the ability to use left-overs attractively
at successive meals. In using this surplus food, it is important
to supply whatever is lacking. If it is dry it needs to be moist-
ened; if it is hard it needs to be softened; if it is not of any
particular flavor it needs to be well seasoned or mixed with some-
thing that will give it a distinctive and appetizing taste.

Sometimes it is "Well to Keep Your Left-Overs Un-
cooked. For instance, if you have a steak that is too large for
one meal, because in order to have it appetizing you had to
have it cut fairly thick, cut out the heart or tenderloin and broil
it, keeping the rest for a fresh-meat casserole the next day.

Any Small Pieces of Uncooked Meat may be made at-
tractive by broiling on the skewer or preparing as a mixed grill
or a mixed fried dish. For any of these there need be only a
few small pieces of meat with accessories such as half a dozen
mushrooms, a few slices of potato, an onion or two, small cubes
^f egg-plant or turnip or other vegetables, a few curls of bacon
or a tiny sausage or two. To cook "en brochette" dip the small
pieces of meat and vegetable in melted butter and impale them
on the skewer. Bacon and sausage of course need no butter.

COOKING FOR TWO 713

Put the skewer on the broiling rack and broil, turning oc-
casionally. For a mixed grill, any meat or vegetable that can
be put under the broiler may be used. Slices of tomato, egg-
plant and pineapple give interesting variety.

Meats for Two

The following types of meat dishes are as easily served to
two as to six:

Hamburg balls or steak Chop suey

Lamb, mutton, veal or pork Sausages

chops Scrapple

Liver Dried beef

Kidneys Sliced ham

Sweetbreads Bacon

Ox tails Salt pork

Roasts — ^Instead of a large roast of beef, buy a thick steak,
roll, tie and roast it in a very hot oven (450°-500° F.) for a
short time. If even this is too large a roast, cut out the heart
for roasting and keep the rest for a casserole dish.

For Lamb, Mutton and Veal Roasts, buy loin chops — as
many as you require. Have the bones separated at the joints
but do not have the meat cut through. Cook as a standing
roast.

For Baked Ham, buy a one- inch thick slice of raw ham.
Brown it on both sides in the frying-pan, then cover it with
mustard, flour and sugar and stuff the top with cloves. Add a
little water and cook, covered, in a moderate oven (350° F.)
for an hour.

In Place of Stuffed Shoulder of Lamb, mutton or veal,
buy a slice of the meat and spread it with any desired stuffing.
Roll, with the stuffing inside. This may be browned first and
then baked, or may be put immediately into the oven.

For Pot Roasts a one pound or two pound piece will be
quite as satisfactory as a larger one, though it may require a
little more watching while it is cooking.

Poultry — A whole turkey, of course, is out of the question,
but poultry may be enjoyed in the shape of a broiling chicken
or guinea chick, or squab and the smaller game birds, quail and
grouse. These can be broiled, fried or baked. The pigeon is
nice in a pie.

714

Fish

"Whole Fish that will serve six or more persons are not a
wise purchase for the small family. Either buy small fish, such
as smelts, perch and butterfish, or a steak or fillet from one of
the large fish — ^halibut, cod, haddock, salmon and the like.

Shell Fish are particularly well suited to the needs of the
small family. It is possible to buy just the right amount of
clams, oysters, shrimps, hard and soft-shelled crabs, and some-
times a lobster just large enough for two is procurable. Shad
roe and frogs' legs are luxuries that are more often possible for
the small family than for the large family^

Vegetables

The Large Vegetables will give left-overs that can be used
in many ways. A small cabbage makes one nice salad, and, a
few days later, one cooked dish. Winter squash can be used
up in pies and custards. An egg-plant will give one-half for
stuffing and baking and several slices for frying, with some,
j>erhaps left to cook in Oriental style. Left-over cooked cauli-
flower may be served cold as a salad, or scalloped.

The Smaller Vegetables, fresh peas, beans, carrots, beets,
potatoes, etc., can be bought and cooked in exactly the quantity
required, though, as all of these are good for use in salads, it
is generally wise to cook a little more than you need for one
meal.

Spaghetti, Macaroni and Noodles are often served as a
vegetable. These, of course, are easily managed if there are
cooking utensils of the right size.

Soups

Any Creamed Vegetable Soup can be made in a pint
quantity.

A Quart of Meat Stock can be made from the bones and
trimmings of meat purchased for other cooking, and whatever is
not needed for soup can be made into gravies and sauces for
following days. A thickened meat stock containing small pieces
of meat and plenty of diced vegetables makes a substantial dish.

COOKING FOR TWO 715

Breads

One Loaf of Yeast Bread can be made at a time, and
quickly, if the proportion of yeast is increased.

Any Baking Powder Mixture can be mixed in the desired
quantity, and almost any kind of loaf can be made with it —
white, whole wheat, graham, oatmeal, bran, nut, raisin, etc.
Baked in a small pan, these loaves will be used up before they
are dry.

Biscuits and Muffins are the ideal home made bread for the
small family.

Pancakes and Waffles are always possible, and may be
served as breakfast or luncheon breads, as accompaniments to
meat or chicken, or as a dessert, with fruit, honey, maple sirup
or a sauce. With a table griddle or iron they can be cooked
in the dining-room and served piping hot.

Cakes

A Layer or Loaf Cake which can be consumed in one or
two meals can be baked in small pans. Half of an average
recipe will make two of these small layers as well as several cup
cakes or a sheet which can be cut into squares and frosted or
not as desired.

If Rolled Cookies Are Too Much Trouble, use any
recipe for drop cookies. These can be flattened out with a
knife and made as thin as you wish.

Desserts

Puddings — ^With individual custard cups or ramekins or with
one large enough to serve two, practically any baked pudding
is possible, and with these same molds, custards or any of the
cold puddings are easily molded. The recipes need no change
other than cutting them to the desired quantity. It is as easy to
make one cup of custard or gelatin as it is to make a quart.

Most steamed puddings improve with keeping, so it is quite
possible to make an entire recipe, steam it in small molds, and
keep the extra ones for future need. They can be reheated in
the top of a double boiler or in a pan, surrounded by water, in
the oven. For strawberry shortcake of the old fashioned va-
riety, cut the crust with a biscuit cutter and make individual

7i6

shortcakes. For a sweet shortcake, bake the batter in muflSn
pans. Cottage pudding, souffles, and similar desserts may be
baked in custard cups or ramekins and either turned out or
served in the dish with or without sauce.

Pies — A small sized pan will make as good a pie as a large
one. If an extra shell is baked at the same time as a two-crust
pie, it can be kept for several days, then reheated to freshen it
and filled with a custard, cream or lemon filling. Individual
tart shells made with the muffin tins, or turnovers just large
enough to serve one person make a variation in form.

Fruits

These offer little difficulty, since most of them come in in-
dividual portions. If you feel impelled to buy the large fruits,
such as watermelon, honeydew and casaba melons, and pine-
apple, serve them in different ways so that they do not become
tiresome before they are eaten up. From the pineapple make
a fruit cup, a salad, an open tart, frosting for cake or a delicious
sherbet or ice-cream. After the first slices of melon have been
used, cut balls and allow them to stand in fruit juice. Serve,
chilled, as a fruit cup. Watermelon can be used for a cooling
sherbet or frappe and the other melons make interesting fruit
salads.

Nuts

These should not be' forgotten in planning meals for two.
Chestnuts, for example, make a delicious vegetable with meat
when boiled and buttered or creamed. Chestnut puree with
sweetened whipped cream is an unusual and delicious dessert.
Blanched walnuts are particularly nice in making many dishes
and can be roasted with a little oil or butter and served hot and
crisp with meat.

Canned and Packaged Goods for Two

Although it is easy to feed a family of two with home
cooked fresh foods, as shown by the preceding suggestions,
an acquaintance with the possibilities of canned and packaged
goods is important to the manager of a very small household.
This is particularly so in the case of one who does work outside
her home, or who makes her home in a kitchenette apartment
where space-saving is a major consideration.

COOKING FOR TWO

717

Canned Vegetables eliminate the time-consuming opera-
tions of washing, scraping or paring, and simpUfy the problem
of garbage disposal, which must always follow the preparation
of fresh vegetables.

Fruits, Vegetables, Meats and Fish of many kinds come
in cans of various sizes, so that it is possible to buy the size that
best suits your requirements.

Ready-to-Mix piecrust, pancake, cake and pastry flours
shorten the time and reduce the number of utensils needed for
mixing pies, biscuits, pancakes, mufiins and cakes.

Fruits and Nuts in Cans or Jars of suitable size are always
ready for salads, desserts, appetizers and garnishes.

Condensed, Evaporated and Powdered Milk may be kept
in small space and, if not kept too long before they are opened,
do not require a refrigerator temperature, as fresh milk does.

Steamed Puddings, pie-fillings, ready-to-mix pudding in-
gredients, canned Welsh rarebit, chicken a la king, baked beans,
spaghetti in savory sauces, soups of all varieties and countless
other aids are at your service to help you serve varied and appe-
tizing meals however limited your time or culinary space.

Types of Recipes Especially Suitable for Two

Appetizers Entrees

Soups Salads

Broiled meats and fish Substantial sandwiches

Shell fish Vegetables of all kinds

Souffles Quick breads

Croquettes Fruit desserts

Patties Gelatin and cream desserts

Creamed, scalloped and au Cookies, gingerbread and small

gratin dishes cakes

Cheese recipes Tarts and turnovers

Egg dishes Recipes suggested in the chap-
Mushrooms in all ways ter Cooking at the Table

COOKING AT THE TABLE

THE small table cookers of various kinds — grills, chafing-
dishes, waffle irons, muffin irons, pancake griddles, toasters
and coffee percolators — make informal entertaining a pleasure
to the hostess as well as to the guests.

Meals cooked at the table must of course be simple. It is
usually wise to confine a supper to one hot dish, with such
accessories as bread and butter, toast, crackers or cold sand-
wiches, a hot drink or a cold drink or both. If something more
elaborate is desirable, the meal may begin with a fruit cocktail
or a simple salad and end with a dessert that is easily served.
Relishes, such as celery and olives, are easily provided.

Suggestions for Table Cookery

It will help you to entertain successfully in this manner, if
you will keep in mind the following suggestions:

1. Prepare Ahead of Time everything that can be pre-
pared. Have the table spread with all that is needed in the way
of china, silver and glass. Arrange the sandwiches, relishes and
other cold accessories attractively and conveniently.

2. Have on Hakd Everything That is to be Used in the
hot dish, and have it prepared as far as it is possible to prepare
it. Meat or fish or vegetables should be nicely diced, cheese
grated, oysters drained, and eggs broken into a bowl, unless they
are to be cooked separately, as in poaching or frying. Lack of
preparation often results in tiresome delays and unappetizing
confusion, but with everything in readiness the one hot dish
is easily put together before the guests become tired of watching
the process.

3. Be Sure That Your Equipment is Sufficient to pro-
vide for the needs of your guests. If you are giving a waffle
party, do not invite more guests than your waffle iron will
easily serve, so that no one need wait hungrily while others are
eating. The same thing holds true with table grills and chafing-
dishes. There should be enough creamed chicken or Welsh
rabbit to serve everyone generously at the same time.

718

COOKING AT THE TABLE 7\9

4. If Your Cookers are Electric, be sure that your wires
are heavy enough to bear the load without blowing out a fuse.

Unless you have special wiring and sturdy convenience out-
lets, it is safer not to attempt to use a grill or wafiJe iron plus
a percolator on the same circuit. Plan to use first cwie and then
the other, or you may melt a fuse when the meal is but half
ready, leaving your guests hungry for that always indefinite
period until it may be replaced,

Dishes That Are Especially Good for Table Cookay
BANANA SAUTE

1 taWespoon butter Flcnir Sugar

3 bananas 3 to 6 slices spoage cake

Mdt the butter in the blazer. Peel the bananas, cut in half
lengthwise, roll lightly in flour and brown on both sides in the
hot fat. Sprinkle with sugar and serve on oblongs of sponge
cake.

CHICKEN HASH

1 Yz cups chc^yped chicken 1 tablespoon parsley

1 cup diced boiled potatoes Salt Pepper

2 tablespoons fat Yz cup stock or water

Mix the chicken and the potatoes lightly together. Melt the
fat in the blazer, add the potato and meat, parsley, seasoning and
stock, and cook directly over the flame.

If desired, one- fourth cup of chopped green peppers may be
added.

CRAB RAREBIT

1 tablespoon fat Pepper Parsley

2 tablespoons flour 1 to 2 cups crab meat, fresh
2 cups cream or canned

y% teaspoon soda 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese

Yz teaspoon salt Toast

Make a white sauce of the fat, flour, cream, soda and season-
ings. Add chopped cooked crab meat (see page 221). Arrange
squares of buttered toast on a hot platter. Pour the crab mix-
ture over them, sprinkle with grated cheese and serve piping hot.

720

ENGLISH MONKEY

1 cup bread-crumbs 1 egg

1 cup milk Yz teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon fat |14 teaspoon pepper

Yz cup mild American cheese Toast

Soak the bread-crumbs in the milk until they are soft. Melt
the fat in the blazer. Add the cheese cut in dice. When the
cheese has melted, add the softened crumbs, the egg beaten,
and salt and pepper. Cook three minutes longer and pour over
squares of toast.

GRILLED SARDINES

12 large sardines 1 tablespoon lemon-juice 6 pieces toast

Drain sardines and heat thoroughly in chafing-dish. Turn
frequently; add lemon -juice and serve on finger-length pieces
of toast.

OYSTERS A L'INDIENNE

1 pint oysters 2 tablespoons Worcestershire
Bacon sauce

Cloves 1 tablespoon minced parsley

2 tablespoons chutney 6 olives

sauce Y2 teaspoon paprika

Drain large oysters, wipe them dry, wrap each in a slice of
bacon, fasten with a toothpick, and stick two cloves in each
oyster. Put the oysters in the blazer and cook until the bacon
is crisp and the oysters plump. Mix the chutney sauce, Wor-
cestershire sauce, minced parsley, olives cut fine, and paprika.
Pour over the oysters, stirring it thoroughly into the gravy.
This recipe will serve three or four.

LOBSTER A LA NEWBURG

2 tablespoons butter 1 pint milk

1 teaspoon flour 3 egg-yolks

1 boiled lobster or 1 can Salt

of lobster Cayenne

Place the butter in the blazer and stir it as it foams. Rub
the flour into the butter, add the salt and pepper, then one-

COOKING AT THE TABLE 721

half of the milk, stirring all of the time and being careful that
the flame is not too hot. Beat the yolks of the eggs until frothy,
add the remainder of the milk and stir into the roux. When
the mass is of the consistency of cream, add the lobster, cut up
coarsely, and, when thoroughly heated, serve. If using the fresh
fish, prepare as directed (see page 218). Just before adding
the lobster, rub the coral and the fat together and stir in.

Other dishes that lend themselves to this form of entertaining,
as well as to the family breakfast or supper, will be found
throughout the book under the following classifications. The
index will supply page numbers for the recipes.

Creamed Dishes — Creamed Chicken, Creamed Oysters, Chicken a
la King, Tunafish with Caper Sauce, Oysters with Mushrooms, Creamed
Sweetbreads, Scotch Woodcock, Creamed Mushrooms, Curried Dishes.

Hot Sandwiches — Grilled Cheese, Grilled Tongue and Egg, Club,
Turkish, Savory, Sardine and Toast.

Toast — Cream, Tomato Cream, Cinnamon, French.

Quick Breads — Griddle Cakes, Pancakes, Waffles.

Egg Dishes — Omelet (with any desired variation). Scrambled Eggs,
Poached Eggs, Cuban Eggs, Spanish Eggs, Egg Fricassee.

Cheese Dishes — ^Welsh Rarebit, Cheese Fondue (on toast). Lunch-
eon Cheese and Eggs.

Panned and Grilled Dishes — ^Panned Oysters, Little Pigs in
Blankets, Rice Fan Tan, Peanut Butter Cutlets, Fried Tomatoes,
Kedgeree, Hashed Brown Potatoes, Spanish Potatoes, Beef Hash a la
Normandie.

Candies — ^Fudge (in any variation), Butterscotch, Maple Scotch,
Peanut Brittle.

FOOD EQUIVALENTS

TN this l^t, the calculations are based on articles of medium
•*" size. These equivalents are not, of course, offered as exact,
but merely as a guide for the housewife in estimating quantities.

Allspice (ground) — ^1 02. = 4 tablespoons.

Almonds (shelled) — 1 lb. = 2% caps.

Apples (dried) — 1 ib. = 5 cups. Double in bulk when cooked.

Apdcots (dried) — 1 Ux = about 3 cups. Double in bulk ^vfaen cooked.

(fresh) — 1 ib, = about 6 aprioKs,
Bacon (medium strip) — 1 lb. = about 30 full thin slices, (wide

strip) — I Ib. = about 15 full thin slices.
Baking powder — 1 oz. = 3 tablespoons.
Bananas — 1 lb. = about 3 bananas.
Beans (dried) — 1 lb. = about 2 cups, (fresh) — 1 qt. will serve 6

persons. Lima (dried) — 1 lb. = about 254 cups. All dried bulk

increases 2 to 3 times in cooking.
Beef (raw) — 1 ib. (lean) when cooked serves 3 to 4,
Bread — 1^-lb, loaf = about 15 sHces \^ inch thick. 2-lb. loaf =

about 24 slices l/^ inch thick, (sandwich) — 1 loaf = 36 to 40

slices 14 i^ch thidc.
Butter — 1 lb. = about 2 cups.
Celery Seed — 1 02. = 4 tablespoons.
Cheese (cottage) — 1 lb. = 2 cups.
Cherries (candied) — 1 lb. = about 120 cherries. (Maraschino) —

1 qt. = 60 to 70 cherries.
Chocolate — 1 lb. = 16 squares. 1 square grated = 5 tablespoons.
Cinnamon — 1 02. = 4 tablespoons.
Cloves (ground) — 1 02. = 4 tablespoons.
Cocoa — 1 lb. = 41/^ cups.
Coconut (shredded) — 1 lb. = 6 cups.
Coffee (ground) — 1 lb. = 5 cups.
Com meal — 1 lb. = 3 cups.
Cornstarch — 1 lb. = 3 cups.
Crackers (graham) — 1 lb. = about 40 crackers, (oyster) — 1 lb. =

450 to 500 crackers, (saltine) — 1 lb. = about 125 crackers,
(soda) — 1 lb. = 70 to 90 crackers.

722

FOOD EQUIVALENTS 723

Cranberries — 1 lb. = about 4 cups. 1 bushel = 32 to 40 lbs.

Cream of Tartar — 1 oz. = 3 tablespoons.

Currants (dried) — 1 lb. = about 22^^ cups.

Dates — 1 lb. = 50 to 60 dates.

Egg whites — 1 cup = 8 to 11 whites.

Egg yolks — 1 cup = about 1 2 yolks.

Eggs (whole) — 1 cup = 4 to 6 eggs. 1 lb. = 8 to 9 eggs.

Figs (pressed) — 1 lb. = 25 to 30 figs.

Flour (graham) — 1 lb. = about 41/2 cups, (white) — 1 lb. = about

4 cups.
Lard — 1 lb. = 2 cups.
Lemons — 1 lb. = 3 to 5 lemons. 1 cup lemon juice = 4 juicy lemons.

1 juicy lemon = 4 tablespoons of juice.
Mustard — 1 02. = 4 tablespoons.
Mustard Seed — 1 02. ^ 2^/2 tablespoons.
Nutmeg — 1 nut, grated =2% tablespoons.
Oats (rolled) — 1 lb. = about 5^4 cups.
Oatmeal — 1 lb. = about 3 cups.
Oils — 1 lb. = 2 cups.
Olives — 1 qt. = 60 to 70 olives.
Peanut Butter — 1 lb. = about 1% cups.
Peanuts (shelled) — 1 lb. = about 2% cups.
Peas (in pod) — 1 lb. = 2 to 3 servings. 1 bushel = 60 lbs.
Pecans (shelled) — 1 lb. = 3 to 4 cups.
Pepper (whole) — 1 02, = 4 tablespoons, (black) — I 02. = 41/^

tablespoons.
Prunes — 1 lb. = 20 to 80 prunes, average 40 to 60.
Raisins (seedless) — 1 lb. = about 234 cups.
Rice — 1 lb. = 2 cups.
Salt — 1 02. = 1% tablespoons.
Soda — 1 02. = 214 tablespoons.
Spinach — 1 lb. = about 25^ quarts (uncooked). 1 lb. makes 3 to 4

servings.
Sugar (brown) — 1 lb. = 21^ to 2% cups, depending on moisture.

(granulated)—! lb. = about 2 cups. (loaf)— 1 lb. = 50 to 70

lumps, (powdered) — 1 lb. = 2i^ to 2% cups.
Tapioca — 1 lb. = 2 14 cups.
Tea— 1 lb. = 61/^ cups.
Vanilla (liquid)—! 02. = 2 tablespoons.
Walnuts (shelled)—! lb. = about 4 cups.

THE FRIENDS
WHO HONOR US

For many families, the pleasant comings of friends and neigh-
bors have no further purpose than warm interchange of plans
and ideas over a cup of tea or coffee.

But some believe that life is lived with one's associates and
that learning to know them simplifies business and professional
as well as personal relationships. This does not mean that social
life shall be stilted or rigid, even when formal — quite the con-
trary is usually the sought-after end. Clear thinking, honest
motives and ease in management can develop a social life that
is simple and charming.

The guest list must be carefully considered. "When inviting
persons for the purpose of introducing them to someone else,
be sure that as far as can be discovered, there is no third person
to inject a discordant note. One cannot take full responsibility
for the emotional responses of all one's friends and acquaintances,

724

THE FRIENDS WHO HONOR US

725

but some caution can and should be exercised. When enter-
taining a group of professionals it is well to have several pro-
fessions represented so that conversation will be general and
pleasant, and not turn to moot professional questions that may
start a sharp debate.

Many families, too, see in their social life an opportunity to
train their children in the social graces and amenities. This, of
course, can be overdone if not carefully thought out. Many
guests are not interested in children and some are annoyed by
them. But family parties are always the logical and pleasant
opportunity to give the youngsters their chance. In any case,
children should be prepared for what is ahead of them. Being
more at ease in their own minds about what may happen and
what is expected of them, they are much less likely to "show off*'
or behave like the "enfant terrible." Being reminded of the
uses of knife, fork, and napkin beforehand, too, and not rep-
rimanded in the presence of others, will make for better
behavior.

ENTERTAINING WITHOUT A MAID

Many women can manage almost any form of entertainment
without the help of a maid. For most, however, there are dis-
tinct limits to what should be attempted for pleasant and digni-
fied results. The disappearance of the dining room and the
substitution of a bay or alcove in the living room has increased
the ease of servantless entertaining at the table. Many small
pieces of furniture are especially designed to add to the efficiency
of the hostess and the comfort of her guests, such as the drop-
leaf, gate-leg and butterfly tables, double-decked tea carts,
muffin stands and butler's trays. The menu should be planned
to avoid last minute activities on the part of the hostess. She
should be free to greet and atten<l her guests. All the extra
china and glass necessary should be on one of the small tables
within the hostess' reach and china removed can be placed out of
sight on the lower shelf of the table or the low butler's tray.
Extra bread, butter, wafers, sauces and water are also on the
auxiliary table. If arrangements are well planned, the hostess
need not leave her chair until it is time to clear, and serve the
dessert. At that time, too, the coffee can be started. The coffee
service has previously been placed at a convenient spot in the
living room, and the screen to be used for enclosing the table

726

when it has been left is at an easily accessible place. (See page
82.) As the guests leave the table for the living room, the hostess
enters with the coffee while the host attends to placing the
screen. By the time all have lighted a fresh cigarette, the coffee
is being poured and the dining table has been forgotten.

BUFFET SERVICE

Until very recently the only buffet was an informal type of
service in which everyone served himself and his partner from a
refectory table set against one side of the living or dining room.
The table is spread with the best cloth and laid with the best
china and silver if the occasion is formal, or with an informal
cloth and pottery, copper, chrome and wood for a man's buffet
or a sports party. Decorations are in keeping with the occasion
and the appointments. Silver is laid in groups, plates are stacked
and napery is laid in a tilted pile. Only one or two hot dishes
are served and all the food is brought to the table at the begin-
ning, except for necessary replenishing.

The currently popular buffet dinner is another way to manage
a maidless dinner. Guests are seated at card tables placed in the
living room or other open space, wherever they can be com-
fortably seated and served. The extended dining table is set
much as for the usual buffet, except that it is away from the
wall so guests may walk around it. The small tables are set
for the usual four with a complete service at each place. If there
are flowers or other decorations they should be very small and
low. Small fruits in low bowls are effective. The large table,
however, may be very elaborately adorned with both flowers
and candles. Friends or members of the family may be asked to
assist and the host should be occupied in seeing that everyone
is seated comfortably. Sometimes older people, unacquainted
with this form of service, become confused and need help. Second
helpings, fresh water and butter are brought to the small tables
by host, hostess or those assisting.

For more hilarious parties, still on the grown-up side, there
are those in which each couple brings one course, the hostess
providing the hot one and coffee. There is also the dinner at
which all hands help. This takes some organizing to keep the
guests from colliding and from clogging the kitchen, but if
well planned, can be a great source of fun and not much more
formal than a studio party.

THE FRIENDS WHO HONOR US 727

More formal and peculiarly adapted to servantless entertain-
ing is after-dinner coffee and liqueurs. Invitations are usually
issued for "9 p. m. to Midnight" and since these parties are
particularly popular among bachelors and professional people
— ^physicians, newspaper people and musicians — guests arrive at
their own convenient time. There is usually music from 10
to 11, giving the earlier arrivals an opportunity to have their
coffee and conversation first and the latecomers to have theirs
afterwards.

THE "RUMPUS" ROOM

The retirement of solid fuels from domestic consumption has
resulted, in recent years, in the rearrangement of basement space
to provide for the Rumpus room. This room takes many forms
and is as variously equipped as there are types of basements and
of household ideas. It ranges from the simple, cleared space al-
lotted to children's indoor play to the elaborate, professionally
decorated English Taproom. In many of the simpler types there
are provisions for some sort of cooking, an electric grill or a
fireplace before which corn may be popped, or chestnuts, wieners
and marshmallows roasted. Without cooking equipment, food
prepared in the kitchen is served here. All Rumpus room parties
are of the most informal type and the menus planned should
reflect this spirit. Picnic menus serve best: hamburgs and
wieners on rolls, small steaks, chops and bacon, sandwiches, whole
pickles, radishes, tomatoes, olives, deviled eggs, whole fruit,
doughnuts and cider, beer, lemonade or ginger ale. If there is a
fireplace, use it for the camp cookery children enjoy on hikes —
potatoes, sweet potatoes, whole eggs or onions done in the hot
ashes. Clever boys and their fathers will be able to manage more
complicated things. The room is, of course, the ideal spot for
taffy pulls and popcorn-ball parties of the oldsters' childhood.
Entertainment takes the form of games.

COCKTAIL PARTIES

Another form of entertaining that lends itself to the maid-
less home is the cocktail party. Men and women living alone,
as well as householders, find this a simple method of bringing
their friends together in both small and large numbers. The
larger the party, the more formal it is apt to be but this need not
necessarily hold. A refectory table against the wall is the usual

728

setting but nothing is served that cannot be eaten with the fin-
gers. No individual silver is necessary and only a tiny napkin is
used. Drinks are the special province of the host. He will make
up his own shopping list and often does his own buying. He
will know the particular tastes and aversions of many of the
guests (in a small party, of all of them) and guide himself ac-
cordingly. A woman alone will have a relative or friend act in
this capacity. Likewise, a man entertaining alone may ask his
sister or friend to attend to the menu. Served with the drinks
are tiny and attractive open sandwiches, made of tart, smoked or
spiced ingredients. Sweets are never used, except that in every
group there are those who do not use spirituous liquors, for what-
ever reason. For them, there should be fruit juices, ginger ale,
f ruitades or whatever taste dictates. Then serve sweets. In addi-
tion there should be olives, small pickles, stuffed celery, carrot
strips, potato chips in their various shapes or salted nuts. In
cold weather hot hors d'oeuvres served with a toothpick are
especially acceptable: small filled broiled mushrooms, broiled
cocktail sausages with or without a bacon wrapping, broiled
olives wrapped in bacon and many others. It is well to remember
that all varnished furniture needs protection from the occasional
careless guest. The foot of every stemmed glass should be pro-
vided with a jacket, and tall glasses equally well protected.
Have plenty of coasters in addition.

OUTDOOR PARTIES

Interest in out-of-doors dining has long been evident in Amer-.-
ican families, somewhat colored by local facilities. When a lake
and beach are available, then campfires, beach parties, fish fries
and clambakes vie with picnics and steak fries. Many com-
miunities encourage these outdoor activities by providing picnic
grounds and camp sites, often equipped with open-air fireplaces,
tables, benches and other necessary facilities. Recently, however,
many families have discovered that they may serve any meal
out of doors on their own premises with very little effort and
much pleasure. A screened-in porch, a level terrace, a planted
back yard serves admirably or, if very fortunate, a garden
planted and equipped as an outdoor living room. The handy
man about the house or the local carpenter can build collapsible
tables or hinged ones against the house wall, rush or picket
screens and canvas-covered or wooden chairs, at little expense.

THE FRIENDS WHO HONOR US

729

using waterproof materials and finish. Since this is a warm-
weather arrangement, there need be Uttle concern for hot
dishes, but it adds to convenience if an electric outlet can be
available for making coffee and toast and keeping such dishes
hot while serving. There need be little change in the menu
when food is served at home. For transporting some distance,
elaborate menus and complicated dishes should be avoided; steaks,
chops, wieners, bacon, broilers and hamburgs to broil over an
open fire if available; rolls of the proper shape; potato, cabbage,
coleslaw or other small vegetable salad; whole tomatoes, radishes,
olives, carrots; whole fruits, cookies, cupcakes or doughnuts.
Beverages such as coffee, milk, or chocolate are carried in thermos
bottles or in their own containers if beer or canned fruit juices.
An ample supply of paper plates, cups, napkins, etc., should be
at hand and used to build the fire that disposes of all refuse at the
end of the meal. Be very sure the fire is completely extinguished
before you leave it.

FORMAL PARTIES

The Formal Dinner or Luncheon served by the household
staflF will be found thoroughly discussed on pages 64 to 82.

A LIST OF HERBS. SPICES,
EXTRACTS AND FLAVORS

HERBS

Bay leaves — ^Flavor particularly good in practically all meat cooking;

also in vegetable and meat soups and sauces.
Borage — ^Young tender leaves excellent for salad or pot herbs.

Chervil — ^Flavor like parsley but milder. Young leaves may be used
in meat and vegetable soups, salads, and as a garnish. More
attractive than parsley as a garnish but not; as lasting. Used in
a powdered combination called Fines Herbes,

Dill — ^Both leaves and seeds of dill are used. Leaves may be used as
a garnish or to cook with fish. Leaves or the whole plant may
be used to flavor dill pickles.

Fennel — ^Has a sweet hot flavor. Both seeds and leaves are used.
Seeds may be used as a spice in very small quantity in pies and
baked fruit. Leaves may be boiled with fish. Fresh leaves are
valued by some people.

HoREHOUND — ^Used in candy making.

Marjoram — ^May be used both green and dry for flavoring soups and
ragouts; and in stuffing for all meats and fish.

Mint — ^May be used fresh in salads, fruit beverages, jellies, conserves,
ices, iced tea, sauces for meats, and added minced to carrots and
peas. Good with apple combinations.,

Parsley — One of the most popular herbs, which may be used in
many ways. A favorite garnish. May be used in fruit and vege-
table salads, in sandwiches, in all soups and gravies, in meat
sauces, minced and added just before serving to practically all
vegetables, minced and added to white sauce.

Pepper Grass or Pepper Cress — ^Excellent flavor. May be used
in green salads and sandwiches.

Saffron — ^May be used to give pale yellow color to bread, cakes,
and sauces, or to color confectionery. Has a pleasant flavor and
good color.

Sage — ^Used fresh and dried. May be used in poultry and meat
stuffings; in sausage and practically all meat combinations; in
cheese and vegetable combinations, as in vegetable loaf, or, curry.
The flowers are sometimes used in salads.

730

HERBS, SPICES, EXTRACTS 731

A List of Herbs, Spices, Extracts and Flavors (.Continued)
Savory — ^Agreeable flavor, blends well with other flavors; may be

used in stuffings in meat, in vegetable soups, in sausage, with

meats and with horseradish.
Sorrel — Green. May be used in salads or as a pot herb.
Sweet Basil — ^Distinct flavor of cloves. May be used for flavoring

salads, soups and meats.
Tarragon — ^Leaves have a hot, pungent taste. Valuable to use in all

salads and sauces. Excellent in Tartar sauce. Leaves are pickled

with gherkins. Used to flavor vinegar.
Thyme — Leaves, green or dried, valuable for use in stuffings, sauces,

soups and meats.

SEEDS

Allspice — Sold whole or ground. Better combined with other spices
in fruit dishes, cakes, pies, pickles, etc.

Anise — Leaves are used for garnishing and for flavor. Oil is ex-
tracted from the seed and used as anise extract.

Caraway — Seeds have a spicy smell and aromatic taste. Used in
baked fruit, in cakes, breads, soups, cheese and sauerkraut.

Cardamom — ^Flavor especially good in honey combinations.

Cloves — Should be dark brown in color. Usually used with other
spices. The combination gives a better flavor than cloves used
alone. Too much gives an undesirable color as well as a bitter
flavor.

Coriander — ^Both leaves and seeds are used. Leaves are used in
salads, soups and curry sauces. The seeds are used for flavoring
pastries and confections in about the same way as caraway seeds.

Curry Powder — ^A number of spices combined in proper proportion
to give a distinct flavor to such dishes as vegetables of all kinds,
meat, poultry and fish.

Mace — ^The inner envelope of nutmegs. May be used both in "blade'*
and ground form in soups, sauces, pastry, pickles.

Mustard — Young tender leaves are used for greens and for salad.
Seeds are used as a ground spice in salad dressings, pickles,
sauces, in some vegetable cookery, and in some cheese dishes.
Made into a paste and served with meats.

Nutmeg — Sold whole or ground. Gives good flavor used alone in
small amount in various soups, meat dishes, pastry and in all
dough mixtures. In combination with other spices for pickles.

Paprika — A Hungarian red pepper. Bright red in color. May be
used in all meat and vegetable salads. In soups, both cream and
stock. As a garnish for potatoes, cream cheese, salads or eggs.

Peppercorn — ^The whole berry of the pepper plant.

732

A List of Herbs, Spices, Extracts and Flavors (Continued)
Pepper, Black — Reduced to proper fineness by grinding and sieving.

Used in all meat and vegetable dishes where the color does not

affect the product.
Pepper, Cayenne — ^Usually obtained from small fruited varieties of

capsicum. It should be of dull red color. May be used in very

small amounts in vegetables and in some salad dressings and in

cheese dishes. It must be used with care, however.
Pepper, White — ^Practically the same as black pepper except that

the outer shell or pericarp of the berry is removed. Used where

color of black pepper is undesirable.
Pepper, White Coriander — A product of especially attractive

appearance screened to uniform size and bleached.

FLAVOR VEGETABLES

Celery — ^Every part of the plant can be used to advantage. Stalks
and heart may be used raw, plain or with various fillings. Outer
stalks may be stewed, scalloped, or used in combination to give
flavor to other vegetables such as potatoes. Trimmings may be
used for flavoring soups or in any cooked meat or vegetable
dishes. Dried seeds may be used in pickles, soups and salads.

Chives — ^Leaves are used in many ways. May be used in salad, in
cream cheese, in sandwiches, omelet, soups, and in fish dishes.
Mild flavor of onion.

Garlic — ^Vegetable similar to a small onion but with the bulb divided
into sections known as cloves. May be used in very small
amounts in flavoring meats, soups, sauces, salads, pickles.

Horseradish — ^Valuable for its white, fleshy, pungent roots which
are grated, mixed with vinegar and used as a condiment for meat,
oysters, fish, sauces, and in some kinds of pickle. Young tender
leaves may be used in salad or greens.

Mushrooms — Have a delicate characteristic flavor. May be used in
meat or vegetable dishes, in sauces and soups.

Onion — ^Popular vegetable which combines in flavor with practically
all vegetables, and some fruits — e, g., apple, and orange; also with
all meat and fish. Tender young tops may be minced and used
as a garnish for soups and salads.

Peppers — ^All varieties of green peppers and some of the red peppers
may be used to give flavor to most forms of vegetable cookery.
The green peppers of mild flavor and thick-meated type are
particularly good for stuffing and for salad.

Shallots — ^A mild onion flavor used in the same way as onions.

HERBS, SPICES, EXTRACTS 733

A List of Herbs, Spices, Extracts and Flavors (Concluded)

FLAVORINGS AND EXTRACTS

Almond Extract — ^Used in cakes and confectionery.

Yanilla Extract — Particularly good with all chocolate, cocoa, coco-
nut, date, raisin and coffee combinations. Good in most milk
combinations; e, g., ice-creams and custards.

Lemon Extract — ^Used in cakes, puddings, pies, ice-cream and candy.
Sometimes used in combination with vanilla. Excellent flavor.
Lemon should be more sparingly used than vanilla.

Rose Extract — ^Used in angel and other white cake; also in fancy

candies.
Orange, Pineapple, Strawberry, Raspberry, Cherry (extracts) —

Used in desserts, beverages and candies.
Wintergreen, Peppermint, Ginger, Cinnamon, Clove (extracts)

— ^Used largely in beverages and confections.

Fruit Vinegars — Blackberry, currant, elderberry, etc., made by
steeping the fruit in the vinegar. Used in beverages, ices, and
sauces.

Lemon — ^Used instead of vinegar in salads and sauces when a milder
acid is desired or when vinegar is objectionable. Used in bever-
ages, hot or cold. Also in salads, conserves, marmalades, etc.
Citric acid found in lemons, oranges and Hmes.

Tomato juice — Used in sauces to serve with bland foods, such as
potato croquettes, or with foods having distinctive flavor, such
as fish, also in beverages.

Vegetable Flavorings — ^For use in sauces, gravies, etc.

Vinegar — Low percentage natural acid, generally acetic acid. Used
as a preservative for all pickling of vegetables and fruit. To give
zest or tang flavor to salad dressing; for meat, fish and vegetable
sauces. Different kinds are wine vinegar, malt or beer vinegar,
white vinegar, cider vinegar, tarragon vinegar.

A LIST OF FOREIGN WORDS
AND PHRASES

Often Used in Connection with Cooking

A LA, AU, AUX — ^Dressed in a certain style.

A l'ancienne — In old style.

A LA BOURGEOISE — In family style.

A LA MODE — Literally, "in the fashion"; applied to ways of serving
various dishes. For instance: "boeuf a la mode" is beef larded
and pot roasted; "pie a la mode" is pie served with ic€-cream.

Artichaut — ^Artichoke.

AsPERGE — ^Asparagus.

Au GRATIN — Baked with a topping of crumbs, and often with grated
cheese.

Bisque — ^A rather thick soup, usually made from shell-fish; or an ice-
cream containing finely chopped nuts.

Blanquette — ^White meat in cream sauce that has been thickened
with eggs.

BoMBE glacee — A mold of ice-cream filled with a different kind of
ice-cream or a water-ice.

BoucHEES — Small pastry shells or pepper cases filled with creamed
meat or fish. The French word means "a mouthful."

Cafe au lait — Coffee with milk.

Cafe noir — Black coffee.

Canard — ^Duck.

Canape — A slice of bread, toasted or fried, spread with some highly
flavored food and served as an appetizer.

Cannelon — ^Meat stuffed, rolled up and roasted or braised.

Caviar — ^The salted roe of the sturgeon.

Champignons — Mushrooms.

Chaud-froid — Literally hot-cold. In cooking, a jellied sauce.

Chou — Cabbage.

Chou-fleur — Cauliflower.

Compote — A stew; often applied to fruits stewed in sirup.

Creme — Cream.

Croustade — Case for creamed meat or fish, made of bread, rice, etc.

Croutons — Small cubes of fried or toasted bread served with soup.

De, d'— Of.

Demitasse — ^Literally half a cup. Used to signify a small cup of black
coffee generally taken at the close of a luncheon or dinner.

734

FOREIGN WORDS AND PHRASES

735

A List of Foreign Words and Phrases (Continued)

Eclair — ^A pastry or cake shell filled with whipped cream or custard.

En brochette — Impaled on a skewer.

En coquilles — In the shell.

Entrees — Small made dishes served between the heavy courses at a
formal dinner.

Farci — Stuflfed.

Fillets — ^Long, thin pieces of boneless meat or fish.

Fines herbes — ^Minced parsley, chives, chervil, etc.

Fondant — Sugar, boiled and kneaded to a smooth creaminess. The
basis of French candy.

Fondue — ^Literally "melted"; usually applied to cheese, or a combina-
tion of cheese, eggs and crumbs.

Fraises — Strawberries.

Frappe — ^Iced or semi-frozen.

Fromage — Cheese.

Gateau — Cake.

Gelee — ^Jelly.

Glace — ^Frozen or glazed.

Haricots verts — Small green string beans.

HoRS d'ceuvres — Side dishes or relishes. Usually served at the be-
ginning of a meal.

HuiTRES — Oysters.

Jambon — Ham.

Jardiniere — ^Mixed vegetables served in their own sauce.

Julienne — ^A clear vegetable soup, invented by Jean Julien in 1875,
containing vegetables cut in matchlike strips.

Laitue — Lettuce.

Macedoine — A mixture; usually vegetables, with or without meat,
Sometimes applied to fruit mixtures.

Marrons — Chestnuts.

Meringue — ^Whites of eggs whipped to a standing froth with sugar.

Mousse — ^Having a mossy texture. Applied to whipped cream that
has been frozen without stirring and to certain hot dishes of
smooth texture.

NoiR — Black.

Pain — Bread.

Pate — ^Paste, patty.

Pate de foie gras — ^A paste of goose livers.

Patisserie — ^Pastry.

Peche — ^Peach.

Petits pois — Small green peas.

Piece de resistance — ^The main dish in a meal; the roast.

Pois — ^Peas.

PoMMES — ^Apples.

736

A List of Foreign Words and Phrases (Concluded)
PoMMES DE TERRE — ^Potatoes. Literally, "apples of the earth."

POTAGE Soup.

PouLET — chicken.

Puree — Ingredients rubbed through a sieve to make a thick soup; any

thick paste, such as mashed potatoes.
Ragout — ^A thick, highly seasoned stew.
Rechauffe — Reheated or warmed-over.
Ris DE VEAU — Sweetbreads.

Rissoles — ^Minced fish or meat rolled in thin pastry and fried.
Ron — ^Roast.
Salade — Salad.
Sorbet — ^Frozen punch. This name is often given to water-ice whea

several kinds of fruit are used.
Souffle — Literally "puffed up." A delicate baked custard which

may contain fruit, cheese, flaked fish, minced poultry, meat or

vegetables.
Tarte — ^Tart.
Tartelette — ^A little tart.
TiMBALE — ^An unsweetened custard, usually seasoned with fish, meat

or vegetables, baked in a mold.
TiMBALE Case — ^A small case of fried batter in which creamed mix-
tures and desserts are served.
TouRTE — ^A tart; a pie.
Truffles — ^A species of fungi, similar to mushrooms, growing in

clusters some inches below the surface of the ground. Used in

seasoning and for a garnish.
Tutti-frutti — ^Mixed fruits.
Veloute — ^Velvety; smooth.

WINE SEASONS FINE FOOD

WINE seasons fine food and kindles delight in dining adven-
tures. Until we have ample time in which to train our
palates, the nice distinctions between the great vintages must
remain an occtJt problem, but our education and our pleasure
can be increased immediately by a somewhat cursory survey of
the accepted laws for the serving of wine and for its use in
cookery.

The fermented juice of grapes is the base of all wines. Except
for the so-called fortified wines, there are two main headings
for imported and domestics alike — red and white. The white
types vary from a pale beige to a deep amber; the red ones show
an even greater color variation. The latter should grow slightly
light with age. If a red wine does not do so, it has been toned up
in its youth. White wines, on the contrary, gain body and grow
more golden with the lapse of years.

This passage of time affects wine as it does humans, for wine
is a living thing. It becomes sick; it recovers; it is affected by
the seasons, by heat and cold; it grows old; it dies — all this even
after it has been bottled.

The term "good year" (we quote a chart on the opposite page
for important French wines) merely means that the balance of
sun and moisture of that particular year was propitious to super-
lative wine. In general, it is wiser to buy a fair wine of a good
year than a famous brand of a poor year.

For daily use, still wines are suggested. If you are serving a
single wine, serve a white wine when your main dish is a fish or a
light type of meat; to accompany beef, lamb, and the like, a red
wine is advised. Claret is the customary red wine for frequent
service.

Claret at its best comes from the Bordeaux district of France.
In that district the vineyards are large enough to permit the
owners to carry out all the processes of growing, pressing,
bottling and storing on their own land. Hence their brand
names — ^usually the names of their chateaux — are guarantees of
uniform quality. Red Bordeaux are lighter than most other red
wines.

White Bordeaux come from the same district and are, gener-

737

ally speaking, sweet wines. Sauternes and Graves are two famed
classifications.

Burgundies come from a very small district extending south-
ward from Dijon for some thirty-five miles. The upper portion
produces the great red Burgundies ; the southern portion supplies
lighter kinds and the great white Burgundies. Bottling at the
property is infrequent, for the holdings of a proprietor are small

VINTAGE CHART

YEAR

BORDEAUX
RED

(claret)

bordeaux

WHIIE

BURGUNDY

RED AND

WHITE

COTES

DU
RHONE

RHINE

AND

MOSELLE

CHAM-
PAGNE

1933

Great

Great (c)

Great

(?)

1932

Poor

Fair

Poor

1931

Fair

Good

Poor

Very good

Fair

1930

Poor

Fair (c)

Fair

Good

Fair

1929

Great

Very good

1928

Great (a)

Great

Great (a)

Very good

Great

1927

Poor

Good

Poor

Fair (c)

Poor

1926

Great

Very good

Great (a)

Poor

Great

1925

Fair

Poor

Fair

Good

Poor

1924

Great

Very good

Good

Poor

Good

1923

Very good

Good

Great

Great (b)

Good

Very good

1922

Fair

Good

Poor

Fair

Poor

1921

Good

Great

Very good (b)

Good

Greatest

Great

1920

Great

Fair

Good

Good (c)

Very good

1919

Great

Good

Great

Fair

Very good

1918

Fair

Good

Fair

Poor

Fair

1917

Good

Very good

Poor

Good

Great

1916

Very good

Good

Fair

Poor

1915

Fair

Great

Good

Great

Courtesy of Bellows 6 Co., Inc., Wine Merchants, New York.

(a) For laying down.

(b) For immediate consumption.

WINE SEASONS FINE FOOD 739

and scattered. As a result Burgundies are commonly sold under
the name of a township, and your greatest protection in their
purchase is the reputation of the purveyor.

White Burgundies are dry, with one or two exceptions.
The term "dry" denotes a "less sweet" wine. Rieslings and
Chablis, for example, are dryer than Barsac or Sauterne. How-
ever, there is no fixed standard of dryness for all Chablis or all
Rieslings. It is a relative matter that varies not only with the
type and brand but with the particular years of growth. De-
pend on your wine merchant for detailed advice.

In addition to Bordeaux and Burgundy, Anjou, Alsace, and
the Rhone valley produce excellent French wines. The best
German wines are white and should be chilled. Italian wines
are heavier than either French or German, more heady. Nearly
every country in Europe grows grapes and makes wine. Though
France, Germany and Italy are the great wine exporting coun-
tries, the others ship their choicest varieties to the rest of the
wine drinking world. Our domestic wines cannot be charted
reliably as yet. We have some very fine vineyards and need only
time to ripen our pressings and to establish uniform standards.
Young wine is suitable for daily use, but fine wines must be
ripened under expert supervision for eight or more years before
they attain their full glory.

Fortified wines include sherry, madeira and port. Brandy has
been added to the natural wine. This increase in alcoholic con-
tent prolongs their keeping qualities and permits storage in up-
right positions.

Champagne needs no introduction. By complicated processes,
the wine is aerated and the corking and recorking is a mortien-
tous and difficult technique.

Wine Sequence (or Service Sequence) — ^Wines reverse the
usual order of hospitality. Your most august wine should be
accorded the last place if you are serving more than one kind.
The theorists hold that your wine tasting ability is not toned up
to a proper appreciation of the unrivaled grandeur of a fine wine
at the beginning of a dinner.

Englishmen customarily serve sherry with clear soups but
Frenchmen consider that the sherry is too vivid a wine to precede
the dry white wine that accompanies the entree or fish.

Never serve a sweet wine before a dry one, nor a rich, fruity
Burgundy before a claret.

740

In serving two wines, select a rather dry white wine to ac-
company your fish or entree and a red wine for your meat
course.

In serving three wines, the following make the best combi-
nations:

A. White, red, Champagne

B. White, red, white

C. White, red, red.

In the case of "B," the second white wine should be sweet.
In the case of "C," the greater of the red wines comes second.

Champagne is served with the dessert if several wines are
provided.

Liqueurs are served with coffee in the drawing room or in the
dining room at the close of dinner. Cognac is the most popular.
However, Benedictine, Cointreau, Chartreuse and Creme de
Menthe have many devoted admirers. Englishmen often drink
port at the close of dinner.

Italians and Frenchmen habitually dilute their ordinary red
wine with water for a daily beverage. Never add ice or very
icy water to wine, for the sudden chilling ruins its flavor.

The Amount to Serve — Wine is best appreciated when it is
drunk in moderation, as a food, as a pleasure and not as a thirst
quencher or stimulant. Plan a total allowance of a half bottle
to each guest. Thus a table of eight will require two bottles of
each of the principal wines or four bottles if you are serving
only one variety. However if you are ending dinner with a
sweet wine, a Chateau d'Yqem, for example, one bottle should
be ample.

Though it is sometimes convenient to serve one large and one
half-size bottle, you will notice that the smaller bottles lack
some of the fine qualities of the larger ones.

Try to gage the amount required for your dinner with rather
nice exactitude, especially in the case of Champagne. Once
iced, then warmed and re-iced at a later date, Champagne is
nearly ruined, and other wines suffer to a lesser degree.

It may be pertinent to add that the larger the group of guests
the more each one tends to consume.

Temperature — Broadly speaking, all red wines should be
served at room temperature and all white wines chilled. The
change in temperature from that of the storage space should be

WINE SEASONS FINE FOOD 741

accomplished gradually, as sudden chilling or warming harms
all wine.

Red wines should never be drunk cold. Fine red Bordeaux
and Burgundies have scarcely any bouquet at a temperature that
chills the hands. Red Bordeaux, or claret, is best at a tempera-
ture of 70° -7 5° F., approximately room temperature. If you
keep your wines in a cool storage place — 5 5 ° F. is ideal for stor-
ing— bring the claret to the dining room several hours before
service time so that it may warm gradually. Never insert the
bottle in hot water or put it near heat to hasten this process.
Red Burgundy may be served slightly cooler than the other red
wines. It loses its numbness speedily after it is poured into the
glasses and by holding the bowl of the glass in the palm of the
hand, to warm it further, the guest savors its expanding bouquet
before tasting it.

Beaujolais, Arbois, Chinon and a few other red wines, with
much bouquet and little body, are best drunk cool ; they are ex-
ceptions to the general rule.

White wines should be drunk cool or chilled. The sweeter the
wine, the longer it takes to chill it. Dry white wines cool
quickly and a dry champagne quickest of all. On the other
hand, a sweet sauterne takes a couple of hours in a mechanical
refrigerator to reach its ideal temperature of 40° F. A half
hour to an hour is ample refrigeration storage tO' cool white Bur-
gundies, Rhone wines and the like.

All sweet white wines, all sparkling wines and some dry wines
should be thoroughly chilled. They should approximate 40° F.
This chilling is best accomplished by the use of an ice bucket,
at least when the wine reaches the table. The first cooling may be
done by laying the bottles, horizontally, of course, in the me-
chanical refrigerator. But wines, once iced, lose their grandeur
if slightly warmed, and if they are allowed to stand outside a
casing of ice for even ten minutes, the result may be disastrous.
You can hasten even icing by turning your bottle in the ice
bucket, which should be deep enough so that the entire bottle,
except the very top, may be surrounded by ice.

Beer should be kept in a cool place so that it may be made
icy cold quickly when needed. However, it should not be stored
permanently in the refrigerator.

Uncorking and Decanting — Careful uncorking is impor-
tant. One least bit of cork dropped into the bottle will ruin

742

great wines and can be detected in every case by the discerning
palate.

A lever type corkscrew is ideal; its edges should be rounded
so that it will not cut the cork. Insert it evenly, straight and
to the full depth of the cork. Then withdraw it very slowly so
that your wine will remain still. This prevents the mixing of
any sediment in the bottom of the bottle with the clear liquid.

Note the condition of the cork. It should be long, moist and
tightly inserted in the bottle. Short corks are an indication of
slip-shod bottling, and dry corks, of poor after care (probably
the bottle has been stored in an upright position) . If the cork
smells acid, the wine itself is turned and no longer in good
drinking condition.

In recorking, it is usually advisable to cut off a little from the
upper part of the cork (this obviates any taste of sealing ma-
terials) and insert this top end in your bottle. The moist end
expands rapidly on exposure to air and can seldom be reinserted.

Decanting is the gentle transfer of wine from its bottle to a
decanter. No two experts agree as to the advisability of doing
this. However, there is no gainsaying the fact that old red wine
with considerable sediment must be poured from the bottle by
a very expert hand, or be decanted to prevent any sediment from
reaching the wine glass. The simplest methods of decanting are
to pour the wine slowly into a glass decanter and stop as soon
as any sediment appears, or to pour the wine through a funnel
topped with a thin layer of absorbent, not medicated, cotton.
Decanting should be done just before the meal is served.

Fine white wines are seldom decanted. However, both white
and red wines of the ordinary day-by-day sorts are often served
from a handsome glass decanter. This fashion originated in
Europe because wines of this grade are often bought in bulk.
A decanter of white wine and another of red are frequently
placed on the dinner table. It is a great convenience to own
several sizes. Ordinary red wines will keep for a considerable
period if the decanters are airtight. As you drink your wine,
change it to a smaller decanter ; the ideal is to have the wine and
the stopper of the decanter meet each other. Liqueurs with high
alcoholic content keep in partially filled decanters or bottles.

Sherry, Madeira, Port and Claret are served from the bottle
or from a decanter with equal correctness.

WINE SEASONS FINE FOOD

743

Care of Wine — ^Wine should be kept at an even temperature
and in a dark, dry place with some ventilation but no drafts.
A closet equipped with metal bins is the best solution in city-
apartments. A cellar is, of course, ideal. Storing vegetables or
other foods in such a cellar is unwise for they impart a disagree-
able odor to wines even though they are bottled.

Fortified wines and brandy may stand upright. Keep all your
other unopened wines in a horizontal position when stored.
Upright bottles of natural wines spoil in a few days, because of
the shrinkage of the corks. Do not disturb your wines by un-
necessary movement, for if there are any dregs or sediment
movement tends to cloud the entire bottle.

The ideal temperature for storing wines is about 55° F, Even
temperature is important, for sudden changes ruin fine wines.

Glasses — Sets of glassware make so charming a table decora-
tion that most women will find it convenient to buy water
goblets, glasses for red wines, and small ones for white wines
and sherry in a single pattern. Champagne glasses should match
the other glasses, for those who plan that luxury. Liqueur and
cocktail glasses may diflFer, for they seldom appear at the same
time as the other glassware. So select gay bits of contrast for
these special services.

In choosing wine glasses, buy rather large ones and fill them
partially; one-half to three-quarters is suggested. Since color
is one of the great fascinations of fine wine, connoisseurs approve
clear crystal glassware with sparse decoration. A ball or tulip
shaped bowl atop a long stem conserves the aroma and permits
swirling. By holding the stem between the thumb and fore-
finger, the guest may move his glass so that the wine picks up a
slight motion and licks the sides of the glass. This swirling ex-
hibits the fine texture of your wine and gathers its bouquet so
that, when the glass is lifted to the mouth, the nose also gains
full pleasure from the rich, fruity aroma. Dry wine spreads like
water, and sweet wine hangs and makes runnels. A Bordeaux
that does this is called "a fat one."

The glory of Champagne, its sparkling quality, is best con-
served by serving it in a glass with a fluted top on a hollow stem.
The effervescence has a longer road to travel before it is dissi-
pated in the atmosphere.

A set of tall glasses suitable for beer, ale, juleps and lemonade

744^

may match your water goblets or differ in pattern. Steins for
beer are preferred by some hosts.

Wine in Cookery — ^Wine is friendly to many foods but is
equally antagonistic to other favorites. Egg is the outstanding
example of the latter and cheese of the former. White and shell
fish, poultry, game and meat, except pork, take on added luster
by the addition of a small quantity of wine. Mushrooms, truf-
fles and sweet potatoes complement wine flavors. Beware, be-
ware, the combining of wine with acids in the form of gherkins,
vinegar and similar condiments.

For fish or meat sauces, dry wines are the dicta of most ex-
perts. Riesling and Chablis are typical dry white wines, and
claret is a typical dry red one. In the case of fish, the wine must
be white, always, for red wine and fish do not mix. Meats may
be cooked with either red or white wine. Occasionally a dash of
a sweet cordial added at the last moment improves a meat. For
instance, a tablespoon of Benedictine works magic in a pot roast.

Desserts and fruits combine to best advantage with sweet
white wines, fortified wines, sweet liqueurs or a little brandy.

The amount of wine used in cookery is surprisin^y small.
To benefit by this trifling quantity, the flavor must permeate
each morsel of food. Several methods aid the cook to this end.
**To marinate" the food in the wine, for an hour or so, is suitable
to some recipes. "To burn" is the easy means to benefit from a
small amount of brandy; simply pour the brandy over the food,
touch it with a lighted match and shake the food until the
flame dies out. To cook the food with wine for a considerable
period of time is the third and usual method.

Remember, however, that wine should never cook at a high
temperature. A dozen bubbles spell disaster. This is especially
true in the case of dishes that combine cream and wine. They
should be cooked over hot water to prevent curdling. Another
trick is to heat the fish or meat with the wine and add the cream
or cream-egg mixture just before serving. If the amount of
cream is large, heat it separately so that it will not chill the hot
mixture. Do not heat eggs for sauces; merely add after the
sauce is removed from the fire, for the heat of the cooked food
will coagulate the egg.

When browning the top of a platter filled with a wine sauce
and fish combination — sole or lobster, for example — ^place it as
close to the flame as possible and leave only a second or two.

WINE SEASONS FINE FOOD 745

Never keep it in the broiler long enough to raise the temperature
of the entire sauce. In olden days, a red hot poker seared the
top — a nearly perfect method.

Never allow the aroma of your wine to escape and be squan-
dered on the air. This bouquet should be part of the food. So
cover your cooking utensils closely; cooking parchments may be
used. Likewise, desserts should be closely covered while they
chill in the refrigerator.

Taste your foods as you assemble and cook them. The requi-
site amount of salt and of wine will vary because of the differ-
ences in the wines themselves. Some sorts — sherry is one — run
the gamut from quite sweet to very dry and from a rich, heavy,
tawny quality to a light, flavorsome one.

Remember in your tasting adventures that, in the finest cook-
ing, the wine flavor does not dominate; it merely accents and
adds subtlety to the basic food flavor.

Remember, too, that all punches, with or without wine,
should stand for thirty minutes or more after they are mixed.
This is called the ripening process. Ice is added at the time of
service.

COURT BOUILLON

1 Yz cups boiling water 1 bay leaf

Yz cup white wine (dry) 6 peppercorns

y^ teaspoon salt Y^ teaspoon thyme

2 slices garlic 6 slices carrot
2 small onions 3 sprigs parsley

Cook together for 30 minutes at simmering temperature.
Strain and use as a substitute for water in poaching fish. If the
recipe calls for a sauce, use this bouillon for its base. Any fish is
improved by the added flavor-giving qualities of a court bouil-
lon. Be sure to poach, not boil, your fish.

CHILLED TROUT

Try poaching brook trout in two tablespoons of butter and
a half cup of court bouillon or of white wine. Turn once and

746

cook a very short time. Lift out, chill and serve with tartar
sauce. It may be covered with an aspic gelatin and garnished
with shrimps and bits of truffle.

JELLIED CONSOMME WITH SHERRY

3 cups seasoned consomme 4 tablespoons sherry wine

2 tablespoons gelatin 54 cup cold water

Yz teaspoon lemon juice Minced parsley

Soften the gelatin in the cold water. Dissolve in the hot con-
somme. Add the lemon juice and wine, and salt if required.
Chill in the refrigerator. Chop lightly before putting in service
cups. Top with minced parsley, a lemon crescent or a bit of
tx)mato fringed with minced green pepper.

HALIBUT A LA NEWBURG

1 lb. halibut 1 cup evaporated milk (un-

1 tablespoon brandy diluted)

y^ cup sherry wine 1 teaspoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons butter 3 t%% yolks

Dash cayenne — salt to taste

Cut the halibut in small cubes. Steam over hot water or poach
in court bouillon for five minutes. Beware of long or swift cook-
ing as the halibut easily loses its shape. When poached, put the
fish, butter, wine, brandy, salt and cayenne in a double boiler
and heat smoking hot. Beat the yolks and combine with the
evaporated milk (sour cream may be substituted for the milk
and lemon juice) and cook with the hot fish for one minute.
Remove from the fire and add the lemon juice. Serve on very
hot plates. An excellent chafing dish innovation.

LOBSTER CURRY APPETIZER

Yz cup fresh or canned lob- y^ teaspoon curry powder

ster meat 1 teaspoon sherry wine

2 tablespoons butter % teaspoon dry mustard

Saute the lobster in the melted fat. Add the seasonings and
the wine. When very hot serve on small bread croustades or
packaged appetizer shells.

WINE SEASONS FINE FOOD 747

LOBSTER A LA NEWBURG

Yz lb. butter 3 cups lobster meat (3^^ lb.

1 cup Madeira wine live lobster)

2 cups whipping cream Salt and cayenne to taste
1 small can tru£Qes

Cut the lobster in small pieces. Chop the truffles fine. Heat
both the above in melted butter till very hot. Add the wine.
When hot add the cream and seasoning and let them blend for
several minutes. Cook over hot water, as a high temperature
will curdle the cream-wine mixture.

SOLE THERMIDOR

1 lb. sole or filet of flounder ^ cup brandy

1 tablespoon flour 3 tablespoons butter

Yz cup sour cream 2 cups court bouillon

1 teaspoon dry mustard 4 tablespoons grated Swiss

Salt and cayenne to taste or Parmesan cheese

Neatly trim the fish fillets and poach in court bouillon.
(See page 745.) Lift onto a hot baking platter. Combine tiie
flour and melted butter and add the court bouillon in which the
fish was poached. Add the seasonings, the cream, the brandy
and 2 tablespoons of the cheese. Do not cook. Pour over the
fish, sprinkle with the remaining cheese and put close under the
flame to brown instantly. Serve as an entree.

HAM PORTE MAILLOT

54 cup cooking fat Yi clove garlic

1^ cup dried Lima beans Y2 cup cauliflower

(cooked) Ya cup celery

54 cup carrots 2 leaves lettuce

Ya cup onion Y^ ^^ Va cup dry white wine

Originated by a restaurant just outside the Porte Maillot, one
of the gates of Paris, this dish brings a new flavor to a baked
ham. We have substituted dried Lima beans for the French
white bean that is infrequently used in America. Cut the car-
rots, onion, garlic, celery, cauliflower and lettuce in long nar-
row shreds. Simmer them in the cooking fat but do not brown.

748

When cooked add the previously cooked Lima beans and the
white wine. Cook together one minute and serve around a hot
baked ham or as a sauce for left-over ham that has been re-
heated over steam.

VEAL WITH OLIVES

1 V2 lbs. veal cutlets J^ cup butter or cooking fat

J/3 cup Marsala wine 10 green olives

Salt and pepper to taste

The secret of the success of this delicious Italian meat is to
have the veal pounded paper thin. Ask for veal scaloppini at
markets in the East. Otherwise ask for veal cutlets and ask
the butcher to pound the meat paper thin after cutting it
J4 inch thick. Wipe the veal, sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Simmer very quickly in the melted butter, browning lightly on
both sides, add the wine and the olives cut in narrow strips.
Heat one minute and serve. The veal should cook in ^yt
minutes.

BURGUNDIAN BEEF

3 lbs. beef, rump or round 2 tablespoons butter

54 lb. salt pork 3 tablespoons flour

3 cups minced onion J4 carrot, in circles

2 small shallots, minced 1 clove garlic

6 peppercorns 2 tablespoons minced parsley

2 bay leaves 2 tablespoons minced chervil

1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar 154 to 2 cups red wine

or fresh minced tarragon Salt to taste
% teaspoon thyme

Dice the salt pork, and saute in the butter. Cut the beef in
two-inch cubes or leave in one piece as preferred. Sear thor-
oughly in the hot fat. Lift out. Add the onion, garlic, shallots
and carrot. Simmer them in the fat till light yellow. Add all
the other ingredients and the beef. Cook on a very slow fire
three hours. Remove excess fat and serve. It may be re-heated
with advantage.

WINE SEASONS FINE FOOD 749

LAMB CHOPS WITH MADEIRA

6 lamb chops 2 carrots

3 onions 4 mushrooms

2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons Madeira

1 teaspoon tomato paste Yg teaspoon pepper

Yz clove garlic Yz teaspoon salt

Cut the vegetables in fine inch-length strips. Simmer them
in the butter till tender. Cover during this cooking so that the
zest will be preserved. Season. Add the tomato paste and
Madeira. Serve on top of broiled lamb chops. Thick lamb
chops boned and circled with bacon add elegance to this
Madeira flavored dish.

CHICKEN BRAISED WITH WINE

(Coq au Vin)

1 frying chicken 3 tablespoons butter

8 small white onions Y4 lb. salt pork diced

4 small shallots Y4 lt>- mushrooms

1 tablespoon minced parsley 1 bay leaf

1 tablespoon minced chervil 1 carrot

2 tablespoons flour Pinch thyme

1 tablespoon brandy 1 cup red or white wine

Salt and pepper to taste 1 clove garlic

Lightly brown the salt pork in the melted butter, add the
shallot, onions, garlic and the carrot cut in circles. Simmer till
golden, but not browned. . Lift out and brown the chicken.
Sprinkle with the flour, seasoning and herbs. Return the
sauteed vegetables and add the wine. Cook fifteen to twenty
minutes on a rather hot fire. During the last £vq minutes add
the mushrooms. Skim off excess fat and serve.

Red wine is usual in making this dish, but the white one
gives a more delicate flavor.

Make your dinner perfect by serving with this chicken a
salad of mixed greens with a simple French dressing made with
lemon juice. The acid of vinegar devitalizes the subtle details
in flavor of the wine-cooked chicken.

750

EGGS WITH SHERRY AND ORANGE
(Oeufs au Xeres et a I'Orange)

6 eggs 1/2 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon sherry Cayenne

3 tablespoons tomato sauce Butter

Grated orange rind

Beat eggs until no longer stringy. Blend in sherry and tomato
sauce. Add seasonings. Melt butter in a frying pan and pour
in the mixture. Cook slowly, stirring until it begins to set. Then
sprinkle with the grated orange rind and serve immediately.

PLANTATION SWEET POTATOES

6 sweet potatoes 6 tablespoons sherry wine

% cup butter or other fat 11/^ teaspoons salt

Paprika y^ teaspoon pepper

Bake washed sweet potatoes at 450° F. for 40 minutes. Cut
off a slice from the top of each and hollow out. Mash the
potato. Whip with the melted butter or other fat, the season-
ing and the sherry. Re-stuff in the potato shells and sprinkle
with paprika. Brown in the oven.

MUSHROOMS WITH MADEIRA

% lb. mushrooms 8 small white onions

3 tablespoons bouillon 3 teaspoons flour

y^ cup butter 1 tablespoon minced parsley

2 tablespoons Madeira 1 tablespoon minced chervil

Salt, cayenne 14 bay leaf

Melt the butter and cook onions in it for five minutes. Do
not brown. Add the mushrooms that have been washed but not
peeled. Whole mushrooms make the most attractive service, so
slice only the stems. When well coated with butter, add the
minced herbs, the flour, the bouillon and the seasoning. Cook
until the onions are tender — slowly of course. Add the Madeira

WINE SEASONS FINE FOOD 751

and cook one minute. Serve garnished with croutons and minced
herbs.

A delicious entree or specialty for chafing dish parties.

WELSH RAREBIT

1 lb. grated American cheese 1 teaspoon butter

1 teaspoon paprika Yz pint ale or beer

Salt and prepared mustard to
taste

Melt the butter and stir so that it oils the bottom of your
pan. (A chafing dish over hot water is ideal.) Add the cheese
and gently stir into it one tablespoon of beer or ale. The cheese
will at once thicken and another tablespoon of beer or ale should
be added. Stir continuously. Add more liquid until the mix-
ture is smooth and velvety. The exact amount of ale varies
with different cheeses. Season to taste and serve on toast. Hot
plates are essential. This will serve six single portions.

HOT WINE SAUCE FOR VENISON, GAME
OR TONGUE

1 tablespoon butter Yz cup water

Yz glass currant jelly Y2 cup port wine

Juice of Y'i. lemon 3 cloves

Pinch cayenne 1 teaspoon salt

Simmer together for five minutes all ingredients except the
wine. Strain and add the port wine. Add also a little of the
meat gravy. Serve hot.

BRANDIED APPLE FRITTERS

4 medium apples 4 tablespoons brandy

1 t^^ Y2 cup milk

1 tablespoon sugar 1 cup flour

1 Y2 teaspoons baking powder Y4 teaspoon salt

Pare the apples, core and slice in circles or cut in segments.
Pour over them the brandy, cover tightly with cooking parch-
ment. Combine the well beaten eg^ yolk with the sugar and
milk. Add the flour that has been sifted with the salt and bak-

752^

ing powder. Fold in the egg white beaten stiff. Dip the bran-
died apples in this batter and fry in deep fat (360-370° F.) two
to four minutes. Serve with sauce superb or powdered sugar.

SAUCE SUPERB

2 eggs 1 cup powdered sugar

1 cup whipping cream 4 teaspoons rum

Beat the eggs till thick and lemon colored. Add the sugar
gradually and continue beating. Whip the cream very stiff, add
the rum and combine the two mixtures. The secret of success
in making this sauce is to beat it thoroughly. It will keep for
hours in the refrigerator.

APRICOT RUM WHIP

1 jjiZYz can apricots 1 tablespoon rum

34 cup whipping cream 3 egg whites

Drain the apricots and reserve the juice for beverages. Mash
the fruit through a sieve and combine with the whipped egg
whites and the whipped cream. Fold in the rum and serve cold.

BRANDIED CARAMEL BANANAS

6 bananas 3 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon brandy 3 tablespoons brown sugar

Peel the bananas, divide in halves lengthwise. Melt the butter
and saute the bananas. Turn when brown on one side. Add the
sugar and, when browned on the other side, add the brandy.
Serve on very hot plates with the brandied sugar atop the
bananas.

CREPES SUZETTE

^ cup flour 6 lumps loaf sugar

2 teaspoons sugar 1 orange

1 teaspoon salt 6 tablespoons brandy

^ cup milk 54 cup Grand Marnier Liqueur

3 eggs Ys lb. sweet butter

This very famous but really very simple dessert is not dif-
ficult. A more awe-inspiring recipe for the crepes is common at

WINE SEASONS FINE FOOD 755

many great Parisian restaurants, but this is excellent and simple.
The successful making of crepes depends on the thinness of the
batter.

Add sugar and salt to the eggs, beaten slightly, then alter-
nately the flour and the milk and then beat thoroughly with a
rotary beater. Lightly grease a small frying pan (7 inches) and
pour in about two tablespoons of batter. Move the pan so that
the batter spreads to the outer edge of the pan. Brown on both
sides and roll. Keep in a warm place until ready to serve.

The Suzette sauce is made by rubbing the lump sugar with
the white part of the orange peel, adding one teaspoon of very
finely minced outer peel and dissolving the sugar in one table-
spoon brandy. Combine with one-eighth of a pound of sweet
butter. At service time, in the chafing dish, or Suzette pan pref-
erably, melt prepared butter, add the cooked crepes and turn.
Then add the remaining brandy and the liqueur. Light with a
match and when the flame goes out serve your crepes.

BRANDIED APRICOT OMELET

Make a puffy omelet in the usual manner. Before folding it
spread with apricot jam to which you have added a tablespoon
of brandy. Around the omelet serve a foamy brandy sauce or a
sauce superb. -.

GEORGIA CHRISTMAS PUDDING

J/2 cup chopped walnuts or J/2 cup chopped raisins

pecans J/2 cup sherry wine

J/2 cup sugar Y^ cup rum

6 t^g whites 1 teaspoon lemon juice

Soak the nuts and raisins in the wines and lemon juice for at
least six hours — overnight if possible. Beat the Qgg whites stiff,
add the sugar and beat till ropy. Fold in the wine-soaked fruits
and nuts. Pour into a buttered baking dish. Set in a pan of hot
water. Bake at 350° F. for one hour. Serve with the following
sauce.

Make a custard of 6 egg yolks, J4 cup sugar and 1 Yz cups of
scalded milk. When smoothly thickened, flavor with sherry and
serve on the Christmas Pudding. This is a famous old Georgia
recipe.

754

FROZEN PUDDING WITH RUM

2 eggs 1 cup assorted candied fruit

1 cup sugar 2^ cups milk

54 to ^ cup rum 1 cup whipping cream
Pinch salt

Cover the chopped candied fruits with rum and cover tightly.
Stand two or three hours. Make a custard of the eggs, sugar,
salt and hot milk. Cool. Fold in the whipping cream, beaten
stiff, and the candied fruits. Pour into a tray of the mechanical
refrigerator and freeze. Beat at the end of an hour and once
or twice afterward to assure even textured cream. At the last
beating, the cream may be placed in small molds or in little in-
dividual paper containers.

PINEAPPLE WITH KIRSCH

Cut a ripe pineapple in slices. Remove the rind and the eyes.
Restack the slices in their original shape. Pass with the pine-
apple a bowl of powdered sugar and a bottle of kirsch.

Canned pineapple is also excellent with kirsch but, when
using it, you gain in flavor by pouring the kirsch over the fruit
and chilling in the refrigerator for an hour or more. Be sure to
cover closely so that all the zest will be part of the fruit. Allow
one tablespoon of kirsch to two slices of canned pineapple.

Many other fruits are delicious accompanied by this mild
liqueur, strawberries, for example.

SYLLABUB

2 cups whipping cream i^ cup powdered sugar

1 tablespoon rum

A famous English recipe. Whip the cream stiflf, fold in the
sugar and rum. Ripen in the refrigerator for half an hour,
covered, of course. Serve in sherbet glasses.

WINE SEASONS FINE FOOD 755

STRAWBERRIES CHANTILLY

"Wash, stem and cut in half 1 quart ripe strawberries. Cover
with powdered sugar and 2 tablespoons rum. Chill 3 0 minutes.

Whisk two egg whites stiff, beat in gradually 4 tablespoons
powdered sugar. Fold in the chilled berries. Serve in sherbet
glasses and top with sweetened whipped cream.

TIPSY PUDDING

One of the choice recipes of our Grandmother's era. It ap-
peared in the place of honor on New Year's Day. The secret for
a successful outcome is to use a very stale, very porous cake.
A broken, not cut, sunshine cake at least four days old, should
be soaked in sherry. Allow about one cup sherry to a quarter of
a good sized cake. An hour later cover the cake with a soft
custard flavored with rum. Serve very cold.

OLD FASHIONED WINE JELLY

2 tablespoons granulated V2 <=^P ^^^^ ^^^^^

gelatin 1 cup boiling water

1 cup sherry or Madeira wine Grated rind 1 orange

1 cup sugar ^ |^ cup lemon juice
Yi cup orange juice

Soak the gelatin in the cold water until soft. Dissolve in the
boiling water, add the sugar and other ingredients. Pour into
molds that have been rinsed in cold water. Serve with whipped
cream.

BRANDIED PEACHES

4 lbs. fruit 4 lbs. sugar

1 pint best white brandy 1 egg white

Cloves 3 Yz cups water

Pare the peaches with a silver knife. Insert 2 cloves in each
whole peach. Make a syrup of the sugar and water. Add the
egg white beaten to a froth. Skim. Put in fruit, one layer at
a time, and boil five minutes or until it may be pierced with a
straw. Remove the fruit to a platter to partially cool. Then

75^

pack in glass jars. Return any excess juice to the syrup and boil
about ten minutes more, or till well thickened. Remove from
the fire, add the brandy and pour over the fruit. Seal at once.
White cling stone peaches are particularly good. Six pounds of
fruit will yield about seven pint jars. Improves with age.

HASTY WINE GELATIN

2 packages lemon-flavored Yz cup Madeira wine or
gelatin Y^ cup sherry wine

3 J/2 cups hot water

Dissolve the gelatin in the hot water. When perfectly clear
add the wine. Pour in molds that have been rinsed in cold
water. Serve with whipped cream. Garnish with grated orange
peel on top the whipped cream. Orange flavored gelatin com-
bines well with Madeira.

CLARET LEMONADE

12 cubes ice Sugar syrup to taste

1 bottle claret Orange slices

Juice 3 lemons

Half fill a glass pitcher with ice cubes or cracked ice. Add the
lemon juice and a few slices of orange. Fill the pitcher nearly
full with claret and add sugar syrup to taste. Stand twenty to
thirty minutes to blend and ripen.

MULLED CLARET

1 qt. hot claret ^ cup sugar

1 piece stick cinnamon 8 cloves

Juice 1 lemon Y^ lemon sliced

Heat the claret and add the other ingredients. Stir till dis-
solved and serve hot. Doughnuts were served with it in the
nineties.

TUTTI FRUTTI

Into a stone jar put one cup of brandy, the best you own, one
cup sugar and one cup ripe strawberries. Stir thoroughly. As
each fruit comes to the height of its perfection, add it, with a

WINE SEASONS FINE FOOD

757

cup of sugar for each cup of fruit. No more brandy is indicated.
Be sure to stir at each addition. Large fruits like peaches should
be cut in small pieces. Cherries and plums should be stoned.
Atop vanilla ice cream this is an epicurean delight. Perhaps you
will make enough to use it for preserves.

CHAMPAGNE CUP

1/^ cup Maraschino 2 qts. Champagne

y2 cup Vermuth Cucumber rind

^2 cup Santa Cruz rum Juice 4 oranges

Sugar to taste Juice 3 lemons

Sweeten the fruit juices slightly. Combine all the ingredients.
Let stand ten minutes after mixing with a large piece of ice in
a punch bowl. It's well to use as large a piece of ice as possible,
for it melts more slowly and adds less water to the punch.

EGGNOG, SOUTHERN

4 eggs 4 tablespoons brandy or

3^ cup whipping cream whisky

3 tablespoons powdered sugar

Beat the yolks till thick and lemon colored. Slowly beat in the
brandy and sugar. Fold in the stiffly beaten whites and the
whipped cream. This must be eaten with a spoon. Excellent.

EGGNOG— OTHER TYPE

4 eggs 4 tablespoons brandy or

4 tablespoons powdered rum

sugar 3 cups milk

Grating of nutmeg

Beat the ^%% white to a dry froth. Beat into the q%% white the
sugar and then the yolks of the eggs combined with the brandy.
Add the milk and a slight grating of nutmeg. Serve at once.
Famous at New Year's and Christmas.

Zabaglione —
4 ^gg yolks Cinnamon

3 tablespoons honey 2 tablespoons Marsala wine

Beat Q.%% yolks with honey until thick and lemon colored in
the top of a double boiler. Add wine gradually. While it heats
continue to use rotary beater. Serve as drink or dessert sauce
with dash of cinnamon.

CHEESE WITH WAFERS,
FRUIT AND A MINT JULEP
PROMOTE GOOD CONVER-
SATION IN THE LATE
AFTERNOON

^p:

■^mm^'

Index

Accessories, soup 186-190

Acid, as an aid in canning . . . 660, 665
effect of, upon thickening power

of flour or corn-starch ... 16

upon custards 30

Acids, used in salad dressings . . 446

After-dinner coffee 82, 726

Alaska ice cream, baked .... 568

Albumen water, for invalids . . . 653

Albumin, air-holding power of . . 28

Albumenized milk 651

Alcohol test for pectin ..... 682

Alkahne and acid-forming foods . . 34

Alligator pear salad 435

Ahnond filling for "Ice Box Cakes" 538

macaroons 500

paste 513

pie crust 589

sandwiches 137

Almonds, how to blanch . . ^ . 514

mock 186

salted 514

Amber marmalade 676

American ice cream .... 557, 563

Anchovy and cheese sandwiches . . 139

and ham sandwiches 144

and olive sandwiches 146

and pimiento sandwiches . . . 149

butter 135

canapes 159

sauce 322

Angel cake 469

Appetizer tray, suggestions for . . 159
Appetizers

. . 116, 149, 150-151, 158-164, 746

canapes, anchovy 159

bread prepared for ... . 159

caviar 160

cheese and olive ]61

lobster 160

miscellaneous mixtures for . . 162

pate de foie gras 161

petite marmite 135

pie 149

sardine or other sea food . . . 160

Appetizers — Continued

clams on the half shell, see oysters

on the half shell 208

cocktails, cherry 164

clam, see oyster cocktail . . 208

crab, see oyster cocktail . . . 208

fruit, mixed 164

grapefruit 162

orange mint 163

strawberry and pineapple . . 163

watermelon 164

combinations suggested for hors

d'oeuvre dish ..... 159

fruit, general suggestions for . . 162

purees, cold 180

cherry 181

orange 181

raspberry 181

general characteristics of . . . 158

general directions for serving . . 158

grapefruit on the half shell . , 162

oysters on the half shell . . . 208

Apple and plum butter 680

and quince marmalade .... 677

and rice pudding 552

brown Betty 544

butter 680

cake 608

charlotte 545

coconut and celery salad . . . 435

fining for cake 473

flapjacks 121

fluff, see fruit fluff 535

fritters 492

brandied ..„,... 751

jelly 681, 682,683

combinations 683

lemonade 643

meringue pie 593

pudding 634

omelet 369

pie 592

English deep dish 593

meringue ........ 593

pudding, brown Betty .... 544

759

760

INDEX

Apple, pudding — Continued

meringue 634

rice 546

roly-poly 549

tapioca 541

sauce, cider, for meats .... 320

for dessert 520

spice cake 468

snow 520

tapioca 541

tarts 604

Apples, baked 521

stuffed 521

with bread 633

blushing 520

canning of 665

jellied, for dessert 521

Southern fried 524

steamed 522

stuffed, baked 521

Vermont quartered 519

Apricot and banana salad .... 435

and marshmallow tarts . . . 605

cake 467

ice cream 564

omelet, brandied 753

prune upside-down cak« . . . 471

pudding 553

rice crown 634

rum whip 752

sauce 579

whip 523, 528

Apricots, canning of 665

Arrowroot blanc mange .... 555

Artichokes, French 388

Jerusalem 389

Asparagus, canning of ... • 664, 665

salad 427

soup, cream of 178

timbales 348

with cheese 623

Hollandaise sauce 389

Aspic jelly 348

with cabbage . 428

Aspics, definition 328

Au gratin dishes, temperatures . . 6

eggs 372

fillet of flounder 198

leeks and potatoes 625

mushrooms . 625

potatoes 409, 412

salmon 203

Avocado see alligator pear salad . . 435

cream sauce 584

piquant cream 578

Aztec baked beans 359

Bacon and cheese sandwiches, grilled 154

and eggs 265, 362

and liver 266

sandwiches 145

broiled 265

drippings, use of, in cooking . . 22

fried 265

Baked Alaska 568

beans, Aztec 359

Boston 389

Baking, definition 2

temperatures and time . . . . 5, 12

eggs 10

fruits 11

meat, poultry and fish ... 7

vegetables 12

Baking powder biscuit 125

pie crust 126

shortcake 547

buckwheat cakes 120

muffins 123

Banana and apricot salad .... 435

and cheese sandwiches .... 139

and nut salad 435

see French fruit salad . . . 436

and peanut butter sandwiches . . 136

cream pie 598

fritters 493

gruel 653

ice cream 564

pie, cream 598

roll 605

saute 719

Bananas en casserole 708

brandied caramel 752

sliced 518

Banbury tarts 605

Barbecue sauce 253

Southern 321

Barbecued beef 253

lamb 253, 254

mutton 253,254

pork 253

roast 253

Barberry jelly 682, 685

Barley gruel 654

jelly 655

soup 169

water ' 654

Bass, black 196

sea 197

Batter, fritter 492

pudding 544

Batters, thin and thick . . . . 117

INDEX

761

Bavarian cream 534

standard recipe for . . . . 529

fruit, amount required of any fruit 530

orange 530

rice 534

Bean loaf (Lima) 357

puree 180

roast 354, 357

sausages, see mock sausage . . 353

soup 171, 172

Beans, baked 389

Aztec 359

canning of 664, 665, 666

Lima, bakfid in loaf . .... 357

boiled 390

Neufchatel style 625

soy 390

baked 390

kinds and use 390

string, boiled 390

canning of ... . 664, 665, 666

Bearnaise sauce 312

Beaten biscuit 127

Beating foods, definition .... 3

Bechamel sauce 310

Beef 234

barbecued 253

braised '^ . 241

brisket, browned 234

with vegetables or sauerkraut . 235

Burgundian 748

characteristics of good . . . . 228

chili con carne 359

chopped, baked 245

broiled or sauteed 244

en casserole 704

corned, boiled dinner . . . . 236

hash 247

scalloped 246

corning of 235

croquettes 335

cuts, chart of 232

comparative costs of ... . 230

dried, creamed 248

with eggs 367

fillet mignon 242

fricassee 247

goulash 238

hash 247

a la Normandie 621

heart see heart

how to care for 230

how to select 228

juice 656

kidneys see kidneys

loaf 246

Beef — Continued

meat balls 245

methods of cooking 231

Mironton 246

ox-tail, braised 240

pot roast 239

roast 242

carving of 84

sandwiches 144

savory 238

short ribs, braised 238

carving of 84

smothered 239

steak, see beefsteak

stew with dumpUngs . . . . 236

stock 168

tea 656

Beefsteak, broiled 243

sauces suitable for serving with 243

en casserole 703

flank or round, stuffed and baked 240

fillet 343

Hamburger, baked 245

broiled or sauteed .... 244

en casserole 704

how to carve 83

pan-broiled 243

pie 241

planked 244

stuffed 240

Swiss 239

with onions 243

with oysters 244

Beet greens 391

relish 696

Beets, boiled 391

canning of . . . .659,664,665,666

pickled 688

Belgian baked potatoes .... 409

Berries, fresh, as dessert .... 517

Berry fluff see fruit fluff . . . 535

ice cream 565

lemonade 643

preserves 668

sauce 583

Betty, brown 544

Bcurre noir 322

Beverages 635, 650

beef tea 656

buttermilk, artificial 651

cereal 638

champagne cup 757

chocolate 640, 641

claret cup, mock 647

lemonade 756

cocoa 640, 641

762

INDEX

Beverages — Continued

coffee, after dinner 636

au lait 637

caffein-free 635

cereal 638

how to buy 635

how to make 636

how to store 635

iced 637

instantaneous 635

Turkish 637

varieties of 635

Vienna 637

egg, for invalids 653

lemonade 643, 644

orangeade 644

eggnogs 648, 757

flaxseed lemonade 656

fruit, general directions . . . 642

sugar sirup for 643

ginger punch 646

ginger ale punch 646

grape juice, chilled 647

punch 646

highbaU 647

ricky 648

ice cream puff 649

kumiss 651

lemon frost 644

ginger 644

mint 644

punch 646

lemonade 643

apple 643

berry 643

currant 643

egg 643

flaxseed 656

pineapple 644

limeade 644

loganberry cocktail 647

milk . . . .32, 34, 35, 40, 48, 60, 61

albumenized 651

diluted 651

hot 651

punch 649

shake 648, 649

coffee-egg 649

coffee-chocolate 649

iced . 649

orange 649

soured, artificially 31

mock claret cup 647

mulled claret . . . . . . . 756

orange lily 648

orangeade 644

Beverages, orangeade — Continued

pineapple 645

Paradise Island punch . . . . 6'46

punch, fruit, mixed .... 645'

ginger 646

ginger ale 646

grape juice 646

lemon 646

Paradise Island 646

raspberry 646

tea, see veranda punch . . . 647

veranda 647

Quaker drink 648

raspberry punch 646

tea, accompaniments for . . . 640

how to make 639

how to select 638

how to store 639

iced 640

varieties of 638

whey 652

wines 737-757

Zabaglione 757

Bhugia 404

Birds, game, see game, birds

Biscuit glace 572

mocha 570

pie crust 126

sandwiches, hot 153

shortcake 547

Biscuits, baking powder . . . . 125

beaten 127

cheese 382

date 126

emergency 125

frozen or glace 558

raised, see tea biscuits . . . 110

soda 126

Southern beaten 127

tea 110

Bisque ice cream 557, 565

Bisques, clam 181

definition 176

general directions for making . 18

frozen 557, 565

lobster 182

macaroon 535

mock 183

oyster 182

tomato 183

Black bean soup 172

Blackberries, canning of ... . 665

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